HISTORY OF CARNARVONSHIRE.

Carnarvonshire, one of the six Counties of North Wales, is bounded on the West by the Irish sea, on the North by the strait called Menai, which divides it from Anglesey; Merionethshire extends along the Southern coast, and Denbighshire limits the Eastern.

As Travellers generally enter this County either along the Conway or Capel Curig Road, it may be more convenient, for their sakes, to commence its History with a short account of the Town and neighbourhood of

CONWAY.

But before we proceed to a description of the Town, it may be necessary to inform the stranger that there is a District of this County, on the Denbighshire, or East side of the River Conway; and whether he be a Botanist, a Mineralogist, a Naturalist, or Antiquary, he may, if he have leisure, spend a few days on this side of the water with pleasure and advantage. This detached part of the County of Carnarvon is called Creuddin yn Rhos, and is celebrated for producing very excellent wheat; it contains three Parishes, Llangwstenin, Llan Rhôs, or more properly Llanfair yn Rhôs, and Llandudno.—In and about the ruins of old Diganwy, or Dingonwy, now called y Faerdre, and in Gloddaith woods, the Botanist will find a great number of rare Plants, while the Mineralogist will be tempted to examine the Copper Mines at Llandudno, and the Historian and Antiquary be induced to visit the curious collection of old Books and Manuscripts, in the libraries of Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, (Bod Caswallawn) two old family seats, belonging to Sir Thomas Mostyn Bart. the former built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, since which period it has undergone very little or no alteration, and almost all the old furniture is preserved in the same state. Marle has also been a fine old house, but was nearly burnt down about seventy years ago; it was at one time the property of the Hollands, then of Sir Gryffydd Williams, of Penrhyn, and on the death of his grandson Sir Robert, it devolved to Sir Thomas Prendergast, an Irish Gentleman, in right of his Lady, Anne, sister to Sir Robert, but at present this house, as well as the Ferry of Conway, art in the possession of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great Marlow.

On the very summit of the high Promontory of Ormshead, or Gogarth, is situated the small Church of Llandudno, dedicated to St. Tudno, whose rocking stone (Maen sigl or Cryd-Tudno) is not very far distant. On the Western side of this Mountain is a tremendous precipice, over-hanging the sea, and these rocks are frequented in the summer season by great numbers of birds of passage; the Gulls occupy the lowest range, above them are the Razor-bills and Guillemots, over these croak the Corvorants, and the Herons possess the uppermost projections and ledges of this stupendous rock; the Peregrine Falcon also builds his nest in these impending crags. In the days of Falconry these birds were considered so excellent, that the great minister Burleigh, sent a letter of thanks to an ancestor of Sir Thomas Mostyn’s, for a present of a cast of Hawks from this place. The British name of this hill, Gogarth, seems to be derived from ogo, or gogo, a Cave, and Garth, a Promontory, for there are several caves under this rock, and particularly one very large, inaccessible except by water; not far from it are the ruins of an old Palace, belonging to the Bishops of Bangor; there is also a farm house near the spot, known by the above name, Gogarth. Mr. Pennant says, (but upon what authority is not known) that this tract of Land was an appendage of the Abbey of Conway.

The Castle of Deganwy, or Dingonwy, called by the English, Ganoe, and afterwards, by the fault of transcribers, corrupted into Gannock, was celebrated in the wars, between the two nations; the small remains of it are on two hills, not far from the shore of the river, nearly opposite the Town of Conway, but nearer to the sea; there is a house a little below it, which still bears the name, and was lately inhabited by Lord Kirkwall; the walls of the old Castle surrounded these two rocks, and on the summit of one of them is the vestige of a round Tower;—In all probability this, as well as most Welsh Castles, was originally constructed of timber, as it is asserted in our Histories, that it was destroyed by lightning, in the year 810, [12]—the founder of it is not known. It was afterwards rebuilt, and was for some time in the possession of the Earls of Chester, when it was again destroyed by Llewelyn the Great;—Randle de Blondeville then repaired it, and King John encamped under its walls in the year 1211, and was reduced to great distress by the skill and prudence of Llewelyn, who contrived to cut off his supplies. Henry III. suffered still greater calamities near this place, in the year 1245, at which time John de Grey, of Wilton, was Constable; one of his courtiers most pathetically describes their miseries. At length Diganwy was in 1260 totally dismantled by our last Prince, Llewelyn ap Gryffydd.

Not far from hence, on the top of a hill, is an ancient Tower; its form is circular, its height about 20 feet, the diameter 12; its walls compose only two thirds of a circle, the rest is open. In all probability it was a Watch Tower, and connected with Diganwy as a place of retreat. The name of this District, Creuddin, seems to be derived from Creu, or Crau, blood, or gore, and Din, or Dinas, a fortified place; and was so denominated, in all probability, from the many bloody battles fought here between the English and Welsh. The fine view of Conway Castle and the Bennarth woods, from this side of the river, is greatly and deservedly admired. The original name of Conway was Caer Gyffin, and it probably was inhabited, and was a place of some strength, prior to the establishment of a Cistercian Abbey here, in 1185, by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, Prince of North Wales, and it then no doubt increased in opulence and respectability, as the privileges of the members of this community, like many others of a similar description, were very considerable; in the first place they were to be exempt in all parts from Tolls and Pontage, and they had a right to a free passage over the ferries of the Menai, Conway, Barmouth, and Dyfi, (or Dôfwy) and it was endowed with Lands to a great extent, both in this County and in Anglesey; Caput Wedva vawr, (Snowdon) Crib Goch, near Llanberis, and Morfa Dinlle, are mentioned. The Castle was built by Edward the first, about the year 1284, who being apprehensive, probably, that he might find these monks and their attendants very unpleasant and troublesome neighbours, he removed them to Maenan, about 8 miles higher up on the Denbighshire side of the river, and not far from Llanrwst, where there is an old family seat belonging to Lord Newborough, which still retains the name of the Abbey. The town of Conway has four entrances: The upper Gate, the lower, or that next to the River, a Portal between that and the Castle, and another to the Creek called Porth y felin, or the Gate to the mill. Mr. Pennant’s observation with respect to this place is this, “a more ragged Town is scarcely to be seen within, or a more beautiful one without;” the form is nearly triangular, surrounded with lofty Walls, and guarded by 24 round Towers; the lower face of the triangle borders on the River. The Castle is built on a lofty rock, at the S. E. corner, and is generally considered (as the same Historian remarks,) a structure of “matchless magnificence,” and a more beautiful Fortress, perhaps, never arose. The Architect, Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton, (the person under whose direction Carnarvon Castle was also built) seems to have exerted all his skill here. It had two entrances, one up a steep rock from the River, with winding stairs, and ending in a small advanced work, before one of the Gates of the Castle, and protected by small round Towers; at the other extremity is a similar work; from which there was a drawbridge into the Town.—Over a great Foss, in one of the great Towers, is a beautiful oriel window. The form of this Fortress is oblong, one side is bounded by the River, another by a Creek, full of water at every tide; within are two Courts, and on the outside project eight vast Towers, each with a slender one of amazing elegance issuing from its top, within which was a winding staircase.

The great Hall was very magnificent, and was of a curved form, conformable to the bend of the outward Walls, including one end with a large window, which seems to have been the private Chapel; it was one hundred and thirty feet in length, and thirty broad, and of great height; the roof was supported by eight noble Arches, six of which still remain there was a great fireplace at one end, and another on the side, it had six windows to the country and three to the Court, and beneath it were vast Vaults and Cellars. The foundation of one of the Towers next the Creek has been undermined, and it is now denominated the Hanging Tower.

Edward the First made this Town a Free Borough, and ordered that the Mayor (who was the Constable of the Castle for the time being) should preserve its privileges. William Sikun was appointed first to that honor. At present it is governed by one Alderman, a Recorder, Coroner, Water-bailiff, and two Serjeants at Mace, chosen annually. Its privileges extended from Carnarvon to the River Clwyd, and no one could be convicted of any crime within its limits, except by a Jury collected in that District, and such was the case with all the other English Garrisons in North Wales.

Conway is a Contributory Borough, with Carnarvon, Pwllheli, Nevin, and Crickaeth, in returning a Member to Parliament. The Great Sessions for the County were formerly held here, alternately with Carnarvon, but the latter place being more central, enjoys that privilege at present exclusively. The resident population in this Parish in 1801 was 889. The Market is on Friday. Conway is 232 miles N.W. from London. The passage over the river is attended with many inconveniences, and not many years ago a boat was upset, and several lives lost. The ferrymen are said to be very uncivil, and are accused of practising great impositions on strangers. [17] The regular charge ought to be one penny for a foot passenger, two-pence for a man and horse, and half a crown a wheel for a carriage, but they generally demand more than double these sums, and then importune for liquor.

It is to be hoped that when the improvements now executing on the Shrewsbury road are completed, Government will pay the same attention to the Chester line, and that a Bridge will be erected here, over the Conway; as this is the principal communication between Dublin and the North of England.

Plas mawr, (the great mansion) an old house in the centre of the town, built by Robert Wynne, Esq. a branch of the Gwydir family, in the year 1585, will be likely to attract the traveller’s attention. Over the gateway are the words Anechou, Apechou, sustine, abstine; and on the House these capital letters, IHS. X.P.S. being the Ancient method of inscribing our Saviour’s name. The Church, the ruins of an old Abbey, and another old House, called the College, also claim a visit from the stranger.

Gyffin, a Parish Church, about half a mile off, on the road to Llanrwst, is a Stipendiary Cure, and is generally annexed to Conway. The late Doctor Jones, Dean of Bangor, left £100. the interest of which he directed to be applied to the keeping of a School here. The Vicarage of Conway, as well as Gyffin, are in the patronage of the Bishop of Bangor. On the summit of the hill below the town, and nearly opposite to the bifurcated rock, on which stood the Castle of Diganwy, are the ruins of an ancient fortification, of a circular form, with only one entrance, and this probably is the place mentioned by Leland, in his Itinerary, and which he denominates Sinnodun, and where, he says, there are the remains of a great work; it is described by him as being a mile out of the town, but in what direction is not mentioned. Camden also mentions a British Post, called Caer Lleion, surrounded by Ditches and strong Ramparts, on a lofty hill, near Conway marsh. The Castle of Sinnodun is also represented as being situated near this place, in a Map of the County, annexed to a very old edition of that Author’s Britannia. As this small work is intended merely as a guide to the Tourist, in his excursion through the County, it cannot be expected to contain a very detailed or particular account of every object, which may deserve attention; for this reason the Compiler must pass over the siege of this Castle, during the Rebellion, in Oliver Cromwell’s time, and merely observe, that the custody of it was committed by the King to Archbishop Williams, of the Penrhyn family, near Bangor, and after the gentlemen and freeholders of the neighbourhood had placed a number of valuable articles under his care, and for which he had given them receipts, and thus became answerable for the property, he was, in 1645, cruelly dispossessed by Prince Rupert, without assigning any reason for this strange conduct; it was taken, however, from the Prince in June, 1646, by General Mytton. The Archbishop was buried in the Church of Llandegai, near Bangor, where his Monument is still to be seen.

It would puzzle any one, unacquainted with the mistakes and blunders of transcribers, to conjecture how Toisobius should become Ptolemy’s Conobius, or Conovius, (or Conovium) but when we reflect a little, it may be supposed, that the initial C, might be easily mistaken for T, and the v converted into b, so as to form Toinobius, instead of Coinovius. The derivation of the word Cynwy, seems to be, as Mr. Edward Llwyd conjectures, from Cyn, chief or principal, and Gwy, or wy, water; the prefix cyn, being augmentative, as cyn-gann, very white; cyn-dynn, very stiff; or signifying first or chief, as cynfyd, the old antediluvian world; cyn-ddydd, daybreak; and Dr. Davies supposes cyn to be synonymous with penn, as cyntaf, penaf, first or chief. Admitting this, Cungetorix would be Cyntwrch, and Cunobelinus, Cynfelyn, &c.

The River Conway has been celebrated for ages, for its muscle-pearl fishery. Pliny informs us, that Julius Cæsar dedicated to Venus Genetrix, in her temple at Rome, a Breastplate set with British Pearls; and Suetonius alledges the acquisition of these, as one motive for his invasion of the Island. Mr. Edward Llwyd asserts that the pearls found in this river are as large, and as well coloured, as any in Great Britain or Ireland, and says that he saw several very fine large ones in the possession of Robert Wynne, Esq. of Bodysgallen. Mr. Pennant distinguishes this shell-fish by the name of Mya Margaritifera. A vein of Burr, (a species of Mill-stones) was discovered near Conway, about the year 1800, but being inferior in quality to those brought from France, there is no great demand for them.

The ancient Conovium, for some time the station of the Tenth Roman Legion, was no doubt at Caer Rhun, about five miles up the River, and near the Parish Church of that name; as a Roman Hypocaust, a small Shield, and a great number of Roman Coins were discovered there, by the late Rev. Hugh Davies Griffith, late Vicar of the Parish, a gentleman of great worth and integrity, highly esteemed and respected in his neighbourhood, and a person who had a great taste for the study of Antiquities. And what renders this conjecture more probable is this, that there is a hill not far distant, which is still called Mynydd Caer Lleon, or the Hill of the Legion. The Rev. W. Brickdale, at that time Rector of Llanrwst, saw several Roman bricks, dug up near the Church of Caer Rhun, which were inscribed LEG. X. This Legion was denominated Antoniana Augusta. The XXth, stationed at Chester, (Caer Lleon Gawr, or Caer Lleion ar Ddyfrdwy) was distinguished by the name Vicessima Victrix, and the Second Legion, stationed at Caer Leon, in Monmouthshire, or Caer Lleon ar Wysc, was known by the title of Augusta Britannica. And there was (no doubt) a Roman Road from hence to Segontium on the West, and to Varium or Bodvarri and Caerwys, on the East, and another probably through Dolyddelen, to Sarn Helen and Tommen y Mur, in Merionethshire; Pen y street, Dolgelley; Castell y Beri, near Tal y Llynn, to Penal near Machynlleth, where there was a Roman encampment, and where very considerable remains were discovered.

The admirer of picturesque and romantic Scenery would, no doubt, consider his time well employed, and find his propensity amply gratified, were he to deviate here, from the direct road to Bangor and Carnarvon, and trace the Conway to its source, or at least to its junction with the Lledr and Machno; he would then pass very near Caer Rhun, the ancient Conovium, and in proceeding along the banks of this beautiful River, would be able to visit a great number of Water-falls, and he would find the Scenery constantly changing, and new beauties presenting themselves to his view, at almost every turn of the road. My limits will merely allow me to enumerate some of the objects which claim his attention, and ought to be visited, which are the numerous Cascades on the right, between Llanbedr (near Caer Rhun) and Trevriw; the old House of Gwydir, and its beautiful woods; the town of Llanrwst, and particularly the old Monuments in the Church, to the memory of the Wynne’s, the ancient Proprietors of Gwydir, and the handsome Bridge over the Conway, supposed to have been erected by the celebrated Inigo Jones, who is said to have been a native of that neighbourhood. Near this town are also several Lead Mines. The traveller will then proceed through the Gwydir woods, up to the Village of Bettws y Coed, and the new Iron Waterloo Bridge, over the Conway, on the Great Irish Road; he will next visit the falls of the Conway and Machno, and then return to Bettws, and proceed up the river Lligwy; when about half way between that Village and Capel Curig Inn, he will stop to view Rhaidr y Wennol, a tremendous Cateract, and from the last mentioned Inn, he may either continue his rout along the Irish road to Bangor, or direct his course to Bethgelert Village, which is a stage of twelve miles, or turn off on the right from that road, after he has proceeded about four miles, for the Village of Llanberris, through its wonderful pass, and from the new Inn, which we shall have occasion hereafter to notice, he will be able to procure a guide to the summit of Snowdon. But as most strangers will no doubt proceed from Conway to Bangor, it shall be my endeavour to act as their guide, and mention some of the particulars which are worth their attention along this line of road: For the first two miles he will proceed up hill, until he comes to an opening between two rocks, near a place called Sychnant, when all of a sudden a most magnificent scene presents itself: from hence he commands a full view of Beaumaris Bay, generally covered with a number of small vessels; the Puffin, or Priestholm Island, the Village of Llangoed, the Town of Beaumaris, Baron Hill, and the Friars; the former the beautiful seat of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, and the latter that of his brother, Sir Robert Williams, Baronet, M.P. all on the Anglesey shore;—On the Carnarvonshire side, Bangor and Penrhyn Castle, and last, though not least, the huge Pen-maen-mawr, protruding its rocky front into the sea, forming a natural barrier, in such manner (to all appearance) as to cut off every communication this way, and render any further progress impracticable; the art of man has, however, at length conquered these difficulties, and surmounted every obstacle, for about the year 1772 an excellent road was formed along the edge of this once tremendous and dangerous precipice, under the direction of the ingenious Mr. Sylvester, Parliament having generously voted a grant for this purpose. Prior to this event several fatal accidents had happened here, and one or two nearly miraculous escapes are recorded in Mr. Pennant’s Tour through North Wales. At that time no carriages passed this way, and consequently all the travelling was either on foot or on horseback. Dean Swift was generally a Pedestrian, and in one of his rambles he left these lines, written on a pane of glass at the old Inn, (now a Farm House) near this Mountain:—

Before you venture here to pass, Take a good refreshing glass;— And when you are over, take another, Your fainting spirits to recover.

Before the Traveller descends from the top of Sychnant, just mentioned, to the little Vale of Dwygyfylchi, he should deviate a little to the left, in order to examine some Antiquities, near a place called Gwddw Glâs, in that Parish; here are several circles of stones of various diameters, and large Carneddau, viz. Barrows, or Tumuli, supposed to have been memorials of those Heroes who fell in the field of battle, as Cistfaens, or Stone Coffins, are frequently discovered in some of these circular heaps, or collections of stones. The principal Circle now consists of ten upright stones, at unequal distances, the largest is eight feet three inches high; on the ground is another, eleven feet two; the diameter of this Circle is eighty feet. Near this are four other smaller Circles, in the centre of one is a flat stone, the remains of a Cromlech, from which it may be conjectured that it was a Druidical or Bardic Circle. About a quarter of a mile from these is a large Circle, composed of small stones, and near it another of large stones; and not far from these another Circle, composed of small ones.—Near the last is a huge upright stone, called Maen y Campiau, or the Stone of Games; and nearly contiguous is a Carnedd, and a small Circle of twelve stones; adjoining to these are also a great number of what are now called in this country, Cyttiau Gwyddelod, (Woodmen or Irishmen’s Huts) being the foundations of small buildings, made of rounded stones; and the vestige of a road is still visible in a direction from hence towards the Conway. Some of these last might probably have been the summer habitations or encampment of a small detachment of the Roman legion, stationed at Caer Rhun or Conovium, for the purpose of protecting their Cattle. Having mentioned Maen y Campian, it may not perhaps be considered a digression to enumerate the twenty-four Welsh or British Games, of which there were ten Gwrolgampau, or manly games, viz. 1. To lift up great weights; 2. Running; 3. Leaping; 4. Swimming; 5. Wrestling; 6. Riding. These six were stiled Tadogion, viz. pertaining to fathers, or grown up persons, and required only bodily strength and activity; this last, Marchogaeth, is supposed to have included Charioteering, or the skilful driving and management of different kinds of carriages. The other four were, 1. Archery; 2. Playing with the Sword and Buckler; 3. Playing with the Cleddau deuddwrn, or two-handed Sword; 4. Chwarau ffonn ddwybig, or playing with the two-end Staff or Spear. Next to these were the ten Mabolgampau, or those more peculiarly adapted to young men, viz. 1. Coursing; 2. Fishing; 3. Fowling; the remaining seven were of the domestic kind: 1. Barddoniaeth, or Poetical Composition; 2. Chwareu’r Delyn, or paying upon the Harp; 3. Reading Welsh; 4. Singing with the Harp; 5. Singing between three or four, most probably in alternate Stanzas, or Pennillion; 6. Drawing or Painting, particularly Coats of Arms; 7. Heraldry. After these were four Gogampiau, or Minor Games, viz. 1. Chwarau Gwydd-bwyll, a game similar to that of Draughts; 2. Chwarau Tawl-Bwrdd, probably Back-gammon, as this word is supposed to be derived from the Welsh Language, viz. Bach, little, and Cammawn, or Gammon, Battle, and Tewl-Bwrdd, means the toss on the table; 3. Chwarau Ffristeal, or the Game of the Dice Box, in what manner it was played is not known at present; 4. Cyweiriaw Telyn, or the Tuning of the Harp.

After visiting these Circles, the traveller may either proceed to the top of Pen-maen-mawr, or descend to the high road, near Dwygyfylchi Church, not far from which, just at the foot of Pen-maen-bach, is Pendyffryn, the seat of T. Smith, Esq.—In the clefts of the rock, above the Turnpike-gate, near Pen-maen-mawr, grows the Cratægus aria, or White Beam Tree; Mr. Pennant observes that the Swiss procure a good kind of Ardent Spirit from the berries. The summit of this mountain seems to have been fortified by two or three walls, one within the other; and there are still visible the remains of a great number of Huts, or small buildings, most probably at one time the habitations of Soldiers; it was no doubt a strong military Post, and is supposed to have been made use of by the Britons and Romans. The Roman Road, from Segontium to Conovium, must have passed near it, probably on the South side; and this high mountain, so conspicuous and so easily distinguished at a distance, formed a kind of link, no doubt, in the military chain of communication between this County and Denbighshire, as it is very visible from Dinorwick, (now called Pen Dinas) a Roman Encampment in the Parish of Llanddeiniolen, near Carnarvon, on the West, and from many fortified eminences in the other County, on the East. The usual signals in ancient times were fires by night, and a particular kind of flag by day. Having examined Braich y Dinas, which is the name by which the fortified part of the mountain is distinguished, we now proceed along the high road through the Parish of Llanfair fechan, and leaving that small Church on an eminence, a little to the left of the road, and on the right Brynn y Neuadd, an old neglected family seat, at one time the property of Humphrey Roberts, Esq. and afterwards conveyed to the Wynne’s of Plas Newydd, near Denbigh, by the marriage of his daughter to a son of that family, we soon pass Gorddinog, (Mrs. Crawley’s) also on the left, and soon reach the beautiful little Village of Aber, situated near a small river, and at the entrance of a narrow Glenn. Near the Bridge is a Circular Mount, seemingly artificial, which was the foundation of a small Castle, probably constructed of timber, as many of our Welsh Fortresses are stated to have been consumed by fire. Several of the Welsh Princes resided occasionally at this place, and David ap Llywelyn died here, about the year 1246, and was buried in the Abbey of Conway.

Traces of Buildings have been discovered near this spot, which were probably the remains of the Prince’s Palace, as the inhabitants still pretend to shew strangers the foundation of the old kitchen. Several Memorials, &c. appear in our Welsh Histories, dated Aber Garth Celyn, which is the ancient name by which this place was distinguished. William de Breos, (son of Reginald, a potent Baron in the Reign of Henry III.) who had been taken prisoner by the Welsh Prince Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, was detected in an intrigue with Joan his wife, (daughter to the King of England). The enraged Prince, upon the discovery of her infidelity, caused her paramour to be hung on the side of the opposite hill; and there is a tradition, that the Princess going out the next morning, and accidentally meeting the Bard of the Palace, the latter (knowing that she was ignorant of the fate of her lover) accosted her in the following poetical rhyme:

Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn, Beth a roit ti am welad Gwilym?

that is, “Tell me wife of Llywelyn, what you would give for a sight of your William?” to which she answered:—

Cymru, Lloegr a Llywelyn, Y rown i gyd am weled Gwilym!

i.e. Wales and England, and Llywelyn, I would give them all to see my William!

The Bard, on receiving this answer, shewed him to her, hanging on a tree, on the side of a hill, at a place now called Wern Grogedig. It is added in Camden, “Tradition buries De Breos in a Cave, in a field called Cae Gwilym Ddu.” [30] Nearly at the extremity of this romantic Glenn, about a mile from the Village, the River forms a noble Cataract, precipitating itself down the front of a bold lofty rock, and making a double fall, the lowest of which is of very considerable height. This Village is much frequented in the summer season, and the accommodations at the Inn are very good. The beach, at high water, is very convenient for sea-bathing, and many strangers remain here some time for that purpose. There is a road from hence, over the mountain, by Bwlch y Ddau Faen, to Tal y Cafn ferry, Llanbedr and Llanrwst; and another over the sands to Beaumaris, but this latter is not to be attempted by a stranger without a guide. It is remarked by Mr. Pennant that all the Passes between the mountains were guarded by Forts and Castles, for besides this at Aber, Craig y Gaer and Maes y Gaer were fortified; and there was a Fort at Nant Ffranco; (or Nant Afangcwn) near Pont y Twr, another at Dolbadarn, Nant Pevis; Castell Cidwm, Nant y Bettws; Craig y Dinas, near Llanllyfni; a Fort near Dolbenmaen, and an old Cattle at Dolydd Elen, and Dinas Emrys, in Nant Gwynant, near Bethgelert. Lord Bulkeley is the proprietor of the greatest part of the Parish of Aber, and he has been a great benefactor to this Church, as well as to all the others in his Lordship’s Patronage, having built a tower (or Steeple) to each, at his own expence, and furnished them with Bells. The distance from hence to Bangor is about five miles, and as the stranger proceeds he cannot help admiring the ever-varying Scene, and the beauty of the prospects which present themselves to his view: On the Anglesey shore, the Town of Beaumaris, Baron Hill, The Friars, Red Hill, &c. claim his attention; and directly before him, on the Carnarvonshire side, he will perceive the Village and much-admired Church of Llandegai, and near it Penrhyn Woods and Castle, rising in Majestic grandeur. The Church of Llandegai has lately been very much improved and beautified, by means of a very handsome Legacy, left by the late Lady Penrhyn for that purpose. The whole of the interior has been renewed, viz. the Seats, Pulpit, Communion, Ceiling, Plastering, and Floor, and the Tower raised, in order to admit a Peal of Six Bells, a Legacy for which having been also left by Lady Penrhyn, as well as one for the erection of a Monument to her deceased Lord, which is now fixed up in the Church, and is a most superb and elegant piece of work; it is made of Statuary Marble, and represents two Figures, one a Quarryman, with an Iron Bar and Slate knife in his hand, reading the inscription, and reflecting on the loss of his benefactors, the other is a female Peasant Girl, weeping over the loss of her deceased Lord and Lady; there are some other smaller Figures, very descriptive of the progress of improvement amongst the Peasantry, under the directing influence of his Lordship.

Whilst we are speaking of Llandegai Village and Church, we must not omit here to notice a very great improvement, and accommodation to the public, which has been effected, at very considerable expence, through the liberality of Mr. Pennant, we mean the new piece of road, to the left, made to avoid that dangerous and ugly hill near the Church. This part of the County has within the last thirty years been abundantly improved by the late Lord Penrhyn, under the judicious management and direction of Benjamin Wyatt, Esq. of Lime Grove, his Lordship’s Agent, two individuals who were real benefactors to the Country, and whose names have every claim to the grateful recollections not only of the inhabitants of this neighbourhood, but of all those whom business or pleasure may induce to enter this County, by way of Capel Curig and Nant Ffrancon, which is now the great Post Road from Shrewsbury to Holyhead. At the former place, an Inn, upon a very commodious and extensive scale, has been erected by the late Lord Penrhyn; and his successor, Mr. Pennant, with the view of giving greater facility and convenience to Travellers, has lately erected there a Cottage and Stables near the road, in order to give those who might find it inconvenient to go down to the Inn, an opportunity of changing horses at the road, and also for the better accommodation of the Mail and Stage Coaches; he has likewise built new Stables at Tynymaes, and made the Inn there into a Posting House, to divide that long and tedious stage, which used to be from Capel Curig to Bangor-ferry. Capel Curig is distant from Bangor about 15 miles, S.W.—The road to it is carried up the romantic and stupendous Valley of Nant Ffrancon. The formation of such a road, in so rude and unfrequented a region, was one of the earliest and most important improvements which the late Lord Penrhyn effected, in this part of the Country; it has since undergone, in proportion to the increase of pecuniary resources, and to the progress of other local improvements, frequent alterations, and is now, from the munificence of Government, who have lately taken this affair into their own hands, one of the most perfect and magnificent roads, in the kingdom. But, important as this work was, at its commencement, under the public spirit of Lord Penrhyn, it is far from being all which was accomplished or promoted by that patriotic nobleman. The following extract from a memoir of the late Mr. Wyatt, published in the North Wales Gazette for January, 1818, will give us a more enlarged view of this matter:—

“It was by so able an exercise of his judgment and taste, that the domain of Penrhyn, at that period a very wilderness, disregarded as a place of residence, and the house in a state of venerable dilapidation, was heightened into its present circumstances of dignified and stately elegance—that a wild and unprofitable morass has since been made to assume, in the admired situation and arrangements of Lime Grove, the features of comfort, of profit, and of ornament—that the agricultural properties of the Estate were promoted into a condition of progressive improvement; the cottage of the labourer, and the habitation of the tenantry, in many instances, into dwellings of neatness and comfort to themselves, giving animation, variety, and interest to the scenery which surrounded them—that such excellent facilities were effected for bringing into light and action, the hidden and long neglected treasures of the slate rock on the banks of the Ogwen; which, through a happy union of subsequent commercial interests, and the spirited manner in which those interests are conducted, are now so richly swelled into a stream of affluence to the proprietor, and of honest industry and subsistence to many hundreds of the poor.—Such are a few, but far from being all the testimonies, which this country now exhibits of the judgment and abilities of the late Mr. Wyatt; nor ought we, indeed, to have omitted in this short catalogue, as remarkable monuments of his well-cultivated taste, the noble marine Baths at Penrhyn, the fascinating and graceful Villa at Ogwen Bank, and the characteristic order and embellishments of the Dairy farm at Pen-isa-nant.”

The Slate Quarry is distant about six miles from Bangor, on the road to Capel Curig, and is in every respect worthy of a visit from the Tourist; it exhibits a most interesting and surprising display of art and industry, from 7 to 800 men being in constant employment there, and the vast excavation, which from near thirty years labour at it, is now made into the heart of the mountain, presents to the view a variety of picturesque and magnificent scenery, richly deserving the inspection of the artist. Within half a mile of the Slate Quarry is Ogwen Bank, an elegant and romantic little retreat—a perfect bijou, designed by the late Lord Penrhyn, and still used by the family, as an occasional resort for refreshment and recreation, on paying a morning visit to the Quarry, or other objects of curiosity in the vicinity. Near to this is Pen-issa-nant, formerly intended as a Dairy and Poultry Farm to Penrhyn Castle, for which purposes, the most ample, elegant, and ingenious arrangements were made, and the house designed and fitted up with peculiar simplicity and prettiness, perfectly correspondent with the nature of its object. These two places are accessible to all respectable visitors; the road to them, from Bangor, abounds in grand and interesting prospects.—Penrhyn Castle and Woods, at all times a rich and remarkable feature in the Scenery—the Sea, bounded by the distant Promontory of Ormes Head—the protruding bulkiness of Pen-maen-mawr—the bold and mighty barrier of Mountains, forming the most picturesque lines with the horizon, and extending nearly all round the distant Scene—these are the chief ingredients of this distinguished and beautiful landscape. The present proprietor of Penrhyn Castle is G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. to whom the property was left. This gentleman seems to possess a spirit of improvement no less active than his noble predecessor. The Park, which till within these few years formed the domain to this stately residence, has been very extensively enlarged by the present proprietor, who has enclosed the same by a wall of considerable length, which is done in a manner deserving the example of others, for its neat, strong, and masterly work;—the coping of the wall is peculiarly handsome, and characteristic of the county, being formed of the waste ends of the Slate rock, fixed in a rough and uneven manner, giving the whole a bold and substantial appearance.—Within the precincts of this Park, and protruding a considerable distance into the sea, is a very handsome building, containing a large private sea-water bath, with warm baths contiguous to it. This edifice is understood to have cost the late Lord Penrhyn not less than £4000. and perhaps not to be equalled for elegance and commodiousness in the kingdom. Penrhyn Castle is itself a modern building, (with the exception of one small circular Tower) and was erected by Lord Penrhyn, from designs of the late Samuel Wyatt, Esq., a brother of his Lordship’s Agent, before-mentioned. The principal rooms are commodious and elegant, particularly the Drawing-room, which is a very stately and handsome apartment, but the Architecture of the house cannot be said fairly to bear any technical character; being neither of the Grecian, Roman, Gothic, nor English domestic stile, but an insipid and unmeaning attempt at all. Rumour however says, that the present proprietor contemplates some very important improvements. The situation is one which has every claim to a noble and distinguished edifice.

Lime Grove, the neat and appropriate residence of Mr. Wyatt, the Agent of Mr. Pennant, (and son of the former Mr. Wyatt, before alluded to) is situated in the lower part of Penrhyn Park, to the West; this house was also planned by the late S. Wyatt, Esq. and in point of chasteness and technical purity, is more creditable to his taste than the greater work at Penrhyn Castle. The grounds, and what may be called the rural economy of Lime Grove, have ever been deservedly admired.

Contiguous to this part of Penrhyn Park, and to the North West of it, is Port Penrhyn.—This is a very noble and commodious arrangement, made for the accommodation of the Merchant Vessels, employed for the conveyance of the Slate from the afore-mentioned Quarry, to different parts of the Kingdom, and for receiving and stowing the productions of that Quarry until they are lodged on board the Vessels waiting to receive them. The vastly increasing demand for these Slates, [38] necessarily requires a proportionate scale of the means for supplying it, consequently the Quay, at Port Penrhyn, has lately undergone very considerable enlargement, by the present proprietor, G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. which alike does credit to his liberal spirit in projecting it, as to the builder in its masterly execution; it will accommodate 50 sail, in addition to the old Quay, and will greatly facilitate the Trade there. The beautiful Bridge too, which Mr. Pennant is now building over the Cegin, at Port Penrhyn, will considerably improve the communication between that place and the Town of Bangor, and be a great public accommodation in other respects, at the same time it makes a handsome finish to the Pier, which we understand to be upwards of 300 yards in length, and we have no hesitation in saying that when the whole is completed, it will form one of the most complete Shipping places in the Principality. The Slates are conveyed from the Quarry, in Nant Ffrancon, to this Port, a distance of 8 miles, by means of small waggons, linked together in succession, and running upon a rail-road. The expedition and facility with which the Slates are thus conveyed from the Quarry to the Ships is very remarkable.

Proceeding from Port Penrhyn to Bangor, the situation of the Inn, called the Penrhyn Arms, at less than a quarter of a mile from the Port, on the brow of the hill, is well worthy of observation. The view from the Bowling-green, attached to this house, is very celebrated, and deservedly so. The component parts of this fine picture need not be detailed to the stranger, who visits and sees it—but in a word it may be said to be a most majestic, impressive and interesting Scene.

From this rich and animating display of nature’s works, we must now (as faithful pioneers through the County of Carnarvon) turn our eyes to the works of Art in this neighbourhood; the first that presents itself is the great Post Road, from Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which has been lately much altered, and in many places in this vicinity entirely diverted from the old line. It has been found necessary, in order to render the ascent near the Penrhyn Arms easier, to cut about 12 or 15 feet deep, and one or two hundred in length, and to throw an Archway over, to preserve the communication from the above Inn to the Terrace, a handsome mansion, and in point of Scenery, beautifully situated, but which, from the above-mentioned excavation, seems to the passing Traveller, to rest on an insecure foundation. But before we proceed farther, and that we may preserve uniformity, it will be necessary to present our readers with a short History of

BANGOR.

So called from Bann and Cor, the great or lofty Choir, (and not from Pen-chor, as Mr. Nicholas Owen supposes); it is an episcopal See, and a small Market Town, situated in a narrow defile, near a small brook called Tor onnen, (as Leland informs us) opening gradually to the Sea, Eastward, which comes within less than a quarter of a mile of the Town. St. Dubricius, (called by the Welsh Dufrig Ben eurog) who was Archbishop of Caerlleon, upon Usk, in Monmouthshire, is said to have consecrated Daniel ap Dunod, first Bishop of this See, about the year 550. This Daniel or Deiniol, according to the Welsh Records, was Abbot of Bangor Iscoed, in Flintshire, from whence he retired to this place, where he founded a College, for the instruction of youth, and it is supposed to have continued a Cell or Member of the other Bangor, until it was converted into a Bishoprick by Prince Maelgun Gwynedd. The above St. Dubritius is reported to have resigned in favour of St. David, and to have retired to the Island of Bardsey, (Enlli) after having assisted at the Synod of Brevi, (now called Llanddewi Brevi, in Cardiganshire) which circumstance is commemorated in the following Welsh lines:

Pan oedd Saint Senedd Brevi, (Drwy arch y Prophwydi) Ar ôl gwiw Bregeth Dewi Yn myned i Ynys Enlli.

“When the Saints of the Synod of Brevi, after the good sermon of St. David, were going (by the direction of the Prophets) to the Island of Bardsey.”

The extent of this Diocese, at that time, is uncertain; but the present comprehends all Anglesey and Carnarvonshire, except the following parishes, situated on the East of the river Conway, viz. Llysvaen, Eglwys Rhôs, and Llangwstenin, which are in the Diocese of St. Asaph; in Denbighshire it has fourteen Parishes; seven in Montgomeryshire, and the greatest part of Merionethshire is also in this Diocese.

The Cathedral is a venerable Gothic building, spacious and convenient, but, at present it may be considered, in some measure, in a dilapidated state, as the Chapter have been waiting some time for the Lord Chancellor’s decision as to the quantum of Grant, which his Lordship may consider necessary to allow, in order to put the Fabric in complete repair. Its dimensions are as follows, the North and South Cross Aisles are 30 feet 6 inches, North and South, and 25 East and West, so that the whole length of the Cross Aisle, from North to South, is 86 feet the inside. From the Arch which opens to the Choir, to the East end of the Stalls, is 27 feet, from thence to the East end of the Bishop’s Throne 6 feet, and from thence to the Altar 21 feet, whole length of the Choir 54 feet, which added to the space of the cross Aisle 25 feet, the Nave 110 feet, Steeple 19 feet, makes the whole length from East to West, 208. The breadth of the Choir, from wall to wall, is 26 feet 6 inches, the breadth of the Stalls 4 feet, 6 inches, that of the Choristers seats nearly 3 feet; the height of the Choir and Nave 34 feet, of the Aisle 24 feet; thickness of the Walls which support the Arches in the North and South Aisles is 4 feet. The Chapter Room was repaired and partly rebuilt in Bishop Moore’s time, and the Nave new roofed in that of Warren. There are now belonging to this Cathedral, a Bishop, (H. W. Majendie, D.D.) a Dean, (J. Warren, B.D.) three Archdeacons, two of which were annexed to the Bishopric by Act of Parliament, A.D. 1685, a Treasurer, and two Prebendaries, endowed; a Precentor, [43] Chancellor, and three Canons, not endowed; two Vicars Choral, an Organist, four Lay Clerks, Choristers, and other officers.—About the year 975, King Edgar coming into North Wales, at Bangor confirmed the ancient privileges of the Church, and bestowed Lands upon it, and caused a new Church to be founded on the South side of the Cathedral, dedicated to the blessed Virgin, which Church or Chapel was, by Dean Kyffin, converted into a Chantry of singing Priests; this place is supposed to have been the same which afterwards became the residence of the Vicar. Anion, (or Eineon) Archdeacon of Anglesey, became Bishop about the year 1268, and is reported to have held a Synod at St. Mary’s de Garth Brannan, the ancient Parish Church of Bangor, now entirely down, since the year 1291, but which is supposed to have been about 400 yards from the Cathedral. He also christened Edward the Second, in Carnarvon Castle, April 25th, 1284, and for this and other services, had several Manors or Regalities bestowed upon him and his successors, as the Manor of Treffos, (said to have been afterwards the residence of the Bishops of Bangor for some years) and some Cantreds in the Island of Anglesey, the Ferries of Porthaethwy and Cadnant, over the Menai, the Manors of Bangor, Castellmai and Garth Gogo, (now Gogarth). In his time also the house in London was given. The offices secundum usum Bangor, were recovered by Bishop Humphreys, from a private library, and new bound, by the direction and at the expence of the late Dr. John Jones; it was compiled by Bishop Anian, (Eineon) or at least given by him. The Cathedral was destroyed in the year 1071, and was soon afterwards re-built, for we find that in 1212, King John invaded the country, forced the Bishop (Robert of Shrewsbury) from before the Altar, and obliged him to pay two hundred Hawks for his ransom. In the year 1402, it was again reduced to ruin, by the rage of Owen Glyndwr, and continued neglected for ninety years, when the Choir was restored by Bishop Dean or Deny. The present body and tower were erected by that liberal Prelate Bishop Skeffington, as appears by the following inscription, at the West end, “Thomas Skevington, Episcopus Bangoriæ, hoc campanile et Ecclesiam fieri fecit Ann. partus 1532.” The height of the Tower is about sixty feet, it was to have been raised considerably higher, but the death of the Bishop prevented the execution of that design. The windows were made or glazed according to the custom of the times, by the piety of different persons, among whom may be reckoned Dean Kyffin, and some of the Griffiths of Penrhyn. Bishop Lloyd gave the Bells. On the South side of the Choir is a Mural Monument of Bishop Morgan, who died September, 1673, aged 65, also another in memory of Anne, daughter of Bishop Humphreys. The Busts of Bishops Vaughan and Rowlands, which were decapitated, and otherwise disfigured in the fanatical times of Oliver Cromwell, were removed in 1810. Bishop H. Rowlands erected the Monument in memory of Bishop Vaughan, as a token of his affection; he died Bishop of London, A.D. 1607. Bishop Edward Griffith is supposed to have been buried near this spot. Bishop Rowlands died July 1616, and is here buried, ætatis 65; here also is buried Bishop Lloyd ob. 15th Feb. 1688, ætat. 78. About the space of two stones off lie Bishop Nich. Robinson and Bishop Robert Morgan, both in one grave; the stone is or was partly covered by the rails; Morgan died September, 1673, aged 65. Bishops Bailey and Meyrick were buried on the South of the Communion Table. One stone with a plate upon it, is this inscription: “Gulielmus Glynn natus in Insula Mona, &c.” he was Bishop of Bangor in 1555. That wise and valiant Prince, Owen Gwynedd, is supposed to have been buried beneath an Arch, with a flowery Cross cut on a flat stone; he died regretted by his countrymen and feared by his foes, in 1169. On the floor is a mutilated figure, in brass, designed for Richard Kyffin, the active Dean of the Cathedral, in the Reigns of Richard III. and Henry VII. He was a strenuous friend to the house of Lancaster, and when he was Prebendary of Llanddwyn, and resident there as Rector of the place, he concerted, in conjunction with Sir Rhys (or Rice) ap Thomas, of Dinevor, and other Welsh Chieftains, a plan for the bringing in the Duke of Richmond, then in Brittany, to whom they transmitted, by means of fishing Vessels, all the necessary intelligence. He died the 13th of August 1502. The place of his interment was till within these few years (and probably may be so still) distinguished by the name of Bedd y Deon Du, or the grave of the black Dean, who was so called, in all probability, from his complexion. It appears, from the Sebright MSS. that our wise and brave Prince Griffith ap Cynan, was interred on the left side of the great Altar, in the year 1137, and that an elegant shrine was erected over his grave, of which however not a vestige now remains. In the Parish Church of Llandegai, before-mentioned, is still to be seen a mural Monument, with a long Latin inscription, to the memory of the celebrated John Williams, Archbishop of York, in the time of Charles the First; he is represented in his episcopal Dress, kneeling at an Altar. This great Prelate was born at Conway; his father, Edmund, was sixth son of the neighbouring family of Cochwillan, and a branch of that of Penrhyn; his life was written by Bishop Hackett, and the late Rev. Sneyd Davies, after viewing the Monument, wrote a beautiful little Poem, which is preserved in Dodsley’s Collections. Here is also an Alabaster Monument of an armed Man and his Lady, recumbent; they probably belonged to the neighbouring House, but on the dissolution were removed from the Friery of Llanvaes in Anglesey, where the persons represented had been interred.

The Bishop’s Palace is an irregular building situate on the side of the Hill, about one hundred yards to the North of the Cathedral; it was partly re-built by Bishop Warren, and several handsome and commodious apartments added to it, and it has been in other respects greatly improved by the present worthy Prelate, Dr. Majendie. The residence of the Dean is nearly adjoining the Church-yard, at the N. W. end of the Cathedral.

Nearly on the same spot where the Bangor Free Grammar School now stands, a House of Friers Preachers was founded, according to Bishop Tanner, about the year 1276, by Tudor ap Gronow, Lord of Penmynydd and Trecastell, in Anglesey, who also enlarged or rebuilt it in 1299, and was interred here in 1311. Leland’s words are “A Priory of White Freres, by Bangor, dedicate to Jesu: there were once White Freres at Ruthin Dyffryn Clwyd.” Edward VI. made a grant of this place to Thomas Brown and William Bretton, and soon after it was converted into a Free School, by Geffry Glynn, LL.D. an Advocate in Doctor’s Commons, and brother to Bishop Glynn. By his Will, proved July 21, 1557, he left the management of it to his brother, and to Maurice Griffith, Bishop of Rochester; but the settlement not having been completed prior to their decease, they delegated the same power to Sir William Petre and others, who agreed on the Statutes for the Master and Usher, with the concurrence of the Bishop, Dean, and Chapter, and of Alexander Nowel, Dean of St. Paul’s, who is said to have composed them.—Mr. Pennant, in his Tour, informs us that over the chimney piece, in the old School House, there was a fragment of an ancient Monument, to one Gryffydd, with a long sword carved on it, and on the staircase another stone, with the words ap Tudor, probably part of the Tomb of the founder, Tudor ap Gronw ap Tudor. A new School-room, together with a spacious and convenient dwelling-house for the Master, adjoining, was erected here in the time of Bishop Warren, and some new regulations made with regard to the management of the School. Within the last few years a new house has also been built, a little to the East of the former, for the residence of the Usher. This Seminary is at present extremely well conducted, and deservedly held in great repute: From having been for many years the third in eminence, (Beaumaris and Ruthin being long considered as superior to it) this establishment is now the most flourishing place of education in this portion of the principality.

Bishop Rowlands, born at Plas Myllteyrn, in Lleyn, founded here an Hospital, or rather an Alms-house, for six poor men, and also a Free School, at Bottwnog in this County, about the year 1616. The Dispensary, a most useful and benevolent Institution was established in this City, October, 1809, being the 50th Anniversary of our late good King’s Accession, and the year of Jubilee, under the patronage of that excellent Nobleman, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, the Lord Bishop of the Diocese, the worthy Dean, and many other Noblemen and Gentlemen. It is with heart-felt satisfaction we are able to add, that its Funds continue on the increase, and every attention is paid to the numerous patients, by Dr. Mason, the Physician; Mr. Roberts, the Surgeon, and Mr. Pugh, the House Apothecary.

The following tribute, to the memory of Mr. Edwards, the celebrated blind Harper, who died at his sister’s, (Mrs. Jones, Pen yr Allt, Bangor) on Friday, the 13th January, 1815, aged 65, may not be unacceptable to the reader, the author is unknown:

Ah! quench’d is now that Minstrel’s fire, And mute those strings, whose magic tone Could once e’en Cambria’s Rocks inspire, And move to life her mountain stone.

Cold is the hand, that once could sweep The native Harp, with Bardic sway; Could lull each passion rude to sleep, And drive the steps of care away.

Ah come ye kindred Minstrels here, To kiss the Harp your master sway’d, And o’er it drop the mournful tear, And let it in his grave be laid.

For now like him ’tis mute and dead, Its accents all are hush’d and still; The power is gone—the spirit fled, And every nerve in death is chill.

But shall that spirit rise no more, And shall its powers no more revive, And, on this “Muse deserted shore,” Shall no such Bard hereafter live?

Oh! Cambria, scorn the hateful dream, And raise thy drooping downcast head; Nor longer drop the pearly stream, Not longer mourn thy Minstrel dead.

For yet some Heaven-taught child of thine, In ages yet unborn may rise; Some sapling of this Minstrel’s line, And lift thy glory to the skies.

A new Market House, Town Hall, &c. have lately been built here, which is at once an improvement to the Town, and a convenience to farmers and others of the neighbourhood; a good Inn, on a commodious plan, adjoins it called the Waterloo Tavern. Several mean unsightly dwellings, at the East end of the Church-yard, have been taken down, and a new House erected for the residence of one of the Vicars. In short, from the speculative spirit of the inhabitants, and the increasing demand for Slates at Port Penrhyn, which, as well as the Quay at Hirael, is generally crowded not only with small craft, but with Ships of considerable burthen, Bangor seems advancing rapidly into consequence; it is also of late years become a place of fashionable resort, particularly in the Summer season. The population, according to the last Census, in 1811, was 2393, and it may now be stated at nearly 3000. The principal Inns, are the Castle, near the Cathedral, Crown and Anchor, and Waterloo Tavern in the Centre; the Penrhyn Arms at the East, and the Vaynol Arms at the West end of the Town.

Hugh Lupus, in his barbarous inroads into Anglesey, founded a Castle at Bangor, in order to carry on his ravages with greater security; it was situated nearly a quarter of a mile Eastward of the Town, on the ridge of hills which bound the S.E. side of the Vale, and nearly the same distance from the Port. It was on a rocky, and in many parts a precipitous hill. Three sides of the Walls are easily to be traced: on the S.E. side, they extended a hundred and twenty yards; on the S.W. sixty-six, ending at a precipice; the N.E. may be traced forty yards, and ends in the same manner. On the fourth side, the natural strength of the place rendered a farther defence useless; Mounds of Earth, tending to a semicircular form, with rocks and precipices, connect the N.E. and S.W. walls. The precise time of its demolition is not known, but probably as soon as the Earl had effected his design it was suffered to fall to ruin.

In this Parish, about a mile and a half to the South of the Town, was discovered about the year 1806, at a place called Ty Coch, belonging to Captain Taylor, a Stone, with the following inscription;

NVMNC IMP CAESAR M AVRELANTONINVS PIVS TI IX AVG ARAB IX

It is probable, that after the traveller has examined the City of Bangor and its environs, he may be tempted to cross over to the Island of Anglesey; and if he be a pedestrian, he would find the passage over Garth, (formerly called Cadnant) Ferry the shortest and pleasantest way to Beaumaris; but if the party have a horse or carriage, the road to Porth Aethwy, (otherwise called Bangor Ferry) where the new Iron Bridge is now erecting, must be pursued. And here it may be proper, before we proceed any further, to inform the stranger that there are six ferries across the Menai, which I shall mention here in regular order, beginning with Beaumaris, over the Lavan Sands, to Aber; 2. Garth, near Bangor, which is confined solely to foot passengers; 3. Porth Aethwy, [53] before-mentioned, the best, safest, and most convenient; 4. Moel y Donn, a very safe good ferry, and sober careful boatmen; 5. Tal y Foel, opposite Carnarvon; 6. Abermenai, at the extreme Westerly end of the Straits, about three miles below Carnarvon.—The best rout for any person who may be inclined to make a tour of the Island, would be to proceed from Bangor Ferry to Beaumaris, along the delightful new terrace road, made at the sole expence of that munificent Nobleman, who is an honour to his Country, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, which may justly be pronounced one of the most grand and picturesque rides in the kingdom, commanding a full view of Beaumaris bay, with its winding Shores, projecting Capes and Promontories, together with the vast and magnificent chain of Carnarvonshire Hills and Mountains, towering in succession, in majestic eminence and grandeur, and in variety of shapes, until their summits are lost in the clouds. After visiting the Castle and other Antiquities in and about this beautiful Town, the traveller is recommended to proceed from Beaumaris to Red Wharf, and along the Sea-coast to Amlwch, famous for its extensive and lucrative Copper Mines, and which are well worthy the stranger’s attention, and from thence to the town of Holyhead, where Government has erected, at an immense expence, one of the finest Piers in Great Britain; at the extremity is a very handsome Light-House, which, together with the Lamps along the Pier, being lighted up with Gas, renders the Scene, at night, brilliant and imposing. He may then return into Carnarvonshire either along the Post Road to Llangefni, and thence to Moel y Donn ferry, or if he be curious enough to explore the whole of the Island, along the Western Coast to Aberfraw and Newborough, and re-cross either at Abermenai, Tal y Foel, or Moel y Donn.

As the Tourist may probably be desirous to know the names of the gentlemen’s seats, which appear so conspicuous on the Anglesey shore, from this side the water, and which seem to claim his attention, as he proceeds along, I shall here for his satisfaction describe them as they occur, beginning with the most Easterly, viz. Friers, the seat of Sir Robert Williams, Baronet, M.P. for the County of Carnarvon; which is situated a mile beyond Beaumaris, near the Sea coast, not far from the site of a Religious House of the Franciscan order,—next is Baron Hill, the seat of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, embosomed in woods, and commanding a most extensive and enchanting view, having the Town, Castle, and Bay of Beaumaris in front,—near it is Red Hill, the residence of Colonel Sparrow,—next in order is Lady Bulkeley’s neat Cottage, on the Beaumaris new road, and just below it Craig y Donn, the delightful Summer habitation of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great Marlow, who is fond of sailing, and has an elegant Cutter at anchor near his house,—next is Cadnant, the seat of J. Price, Esq. in a small recess on the side of a narrow dingle;—these are the principal seats to the East of the great Irish road. But, before we proceed any further, the stranger cannot avoid noticing the singular situation of a small Church, on a barren rock, forming a little Peninsula, about a quarter of a mile to the West of Bangor-Ferry, called Llandissilio. [55] We then proceed to another small Church, called Llanfair (or St. Mary’s) Pwll Gwyn Gell,—and near it, the Vicarage House; and just below that Llanfair Hall, the seat of Colonel Peacock. And here I must not omit noticing a very elegant Column, situated on a high rock, behind Llanfair Church, erected by subscription of £1 each person, (and which was soon filled, so eager were the gentlemen of the neighbourhood to contribute), and intended to commemorate the brave, skilful, and intrepid conduct of that gallant Nobleman, the Marquess of Anglesey, at the Battle of Waterloo. Not far from hence is that rocky or obstructed part of the Straits or Channel of the Menai, called by the Welsh Pwll Ceris, [56] and by the English the Swelly; the fury of the tide, during ebb and flow, is almost inconceivable, except by the navigator: here are great over-falls and violent whirl-pools, but at high water all is still. This is a great obstacle to the navigation of large vessels, which must consult the critical season, and provide a good Pilot; and as the Merchants of Carnarvon, and others, were very apprehensive that the erection of a Bridge at Bangor Ferry, would materially injure the Trade, Government has proposed to defray the expence of blasting the Rocks, and to render every other practicable facility to the improvement of the navigation in this part of the Channel.

After this short digression, we now proceed to Plas Newydd, the magnificent Seat of the Marquess of Anglesey, situated on a beautiful curve of the Menai, and protected on three sides by venerable Oak Trees, which reminds us of the Groves, in which the Druids are represented by Tacitus to have concealed themselves from the Roman Army, and also recalls to our remembrance the ancient name of Anglesey, Ynys Dywyll, the Dark Island, on account of the deep shade of its groves:

— These woods Were tenanted by Bards, who nightly thence, Rob’d in their flowing vests of innocent white, Issu’d with Harps, that glitter to the moon, Hymning immortal strains.

Mason’s Caractacus.

It lies within 80 or 100 yards of the Menai, with a fine lawn in front, sloping to the edge of the water; it commands a fine view both towards Carnarvon and Bangor, which is rendered doubly interesting when the tide is in, and the river covered with Ships of various sizes, together with his Lordship’s Cutter, and those of T. A. Smith, Esq. of Vaynol, and Owen Williams, Esq. of Craig y Don, sailing up and down, and contending with each other, thus rendering the scene more animating. On the contrary, in boisterous weather, here you behold from your fire side, (if you please,) the mariner exerting his strength to guide his ship, and contending with the storm; sweet retreat! delightful abode!

Suave mari magno, turbantibus æquora ventis, E terra magnum alterius spectare laborem.

“Pleasing from danger free, to hear on shore, The tempests whistle and the billows roar.”

Behind the House are to be seen two vast Cromlechs, the upper stone of one is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve broad, and four thick, supported by five tell ones; the other is but barely separated from the first, is almost a square of five feet and a half, and supported by four stones. The number of supporters to Cromlechs are supposed to be merely accidental, and to depend on the size and form of the incumbent stone. Dr. Borlase, in his History of Cornwall, has shewn the improbability of these stones ever being designed or used as Altars; the figure proves the impossibility of making fires, or performing sacrifices on their sloping summits, and almost all which I have seen (observes Mr. Pennant) have an inclination. It is reasonable to suppose them to have been sepulchral monuments, (probably of their Arch Druids) and that the body might be lodged in the space beneath, and near the monument divine honours might be paid, or sacrifices performed to the manes of the dead.—This species of monument is to be found in most parts of Europe, in Scandinavia, in Holland and in France; in the last, the Pierre Levee, near Poitiers, is a stupendous specimen; they extend even farther South, for Mr. Armstrong gives a drawing of one of this nature in Minorca. They vary in form, in many the space between the supporters is closed up with stones of greater or lesser size, and thus formed a sufficient security to the remains of the deceased therein deposited. Probably all or most of those which we see in our Island, might originally have been thus closed up, and the stones since taken away, and applied to other uses; others are again quite bedded in the Carnedd, as is the case with that at Llanfaelog, in this Island. Not far from the Cromlech is a large Carnedd, part of which has been removed; within was discovered a Cell, about seven feet long and three wide, covered at the top with two flat stones, and lined on the sides with others. On the top of the stones were two semicircular holes, of size sufficient to take in the human neck; it is conjectured that above might have been another, so that both together might perform the office of a stocks.—It is indeed conjecture, yet not an improbable one, that in this place were confined, the wretches destined for sacrifice, as it is well known that they performed those execrable rites, and often upon captives who had suffered long imprisonment, perhaps in Cells similar to this, and the common Welsh proverb “Bwrw caeth i Gythraul,” to offer a captive to the Devil, seems to confirm this opinion. After the tourist has examined the interior of Plasnewydd, which he may easily do if he be so disposed, he is recommended to pay a visit to Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful Cottage, the Lodge, about a quarter of a mile to the East of this Princely mansion, where his curiosity will no doubt be amply gratified, as that gentleman has displayed peculiar taste and judgment in the embellishment and decoration of that singularly elegant and much admired residence. Half a mile to the West, and within the Park, are the Farm and Parish Church, Llan Edwen, and very near these, in the same direction, is Plas Coch, a venerable old Mansion, built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and lately repaired and improved by the present Proprietor, Sir W. Bulkeley Hughes, Knight. Next is Porthamel, [60] late the seat of Mrs. Goodman, now of W. Massey, Esq.; beyond which are Llanidan Church and Hall, the latter the admired residence of the Hon. Mr. Ireby, eldest son of Lord Boston, and nearly opposite Carnarvon, Tref-Arthen, Mr. Bogue’s, and Maes y Porth, W. P. Lloyd, Esq.

We shall now return to Bangor, and conduct the stranger by Bangor Ferry, (which, although about a mile further is by far the most interesting road) to Carnarvon, and as he proceeds he will find the views constantly changing, and he will frequently be at a loss which most to admire,—the Sea, the Mountains, or the landscape, up and down the Menai. Gorphwysfa, [61a] a modern handsome Villa, between the Inn and the intended new Bridge, built by Lord Lucan, and now the property and residence of O. A. Poole, Esq. is the first place likely to attract his attention; this charming spot is much admired—the grounds are laid out with great taste and judgment. But before we proceed, the reader is to be informed that £24,000. have been awarded by a jury, and allowed by Government, as an indemnification to the Proprietor for the loss of the profits of the Ferry, in consequence of the erection of the Bridge. On his right, after he has passed the ferry, and as he ascends the Hill, is Treborth, the seat of G. Barlow, Esq. and about a mile further, on the same side of the road, surrounded by fine woods, and thriving plantations, is Vaynol, [61b] the occasional residence, at particular times of the year, of T. A. Smith, Esq. during a month or two in summer, to enjoy the pleasure of sailing in his Cutter, and a few weeks in winter, for the amusement of sporting. His usual abode is at Tedworth, near Andover Hants. This gentleman is Proprietor of several excellent Slate Quarries, some of which are considered the most productive of any in this part of the Principality, next to those of G. H. D. Pennant, Esq.; but the proper time for visiting these will be during an excursion from Carnarvon to Llanberris. Vaenol was at one period the residence of a branch of the Penrhyn Family, who were descended from Ednyfed Fychan. They obtained a Baronetage June 15, 1622. Sir William Williams, the last of the line, disposed of his property to Sir Boucher Wrey, with the remainder to King William in fee, who made a grant of it to an ancestor of the present proprietor. A curious Seal was discovered near this place, about two or three years ago, supposed to be that of some Convent or Monastery, with the image of the Virgin and child, and bearing the following inscription: S. BEATÆ MARIÆ DE SI. . . . NE BEC . . .

The next place which deserves to be noticed, in our progress towards Carnarvon, is Bryn Tirion; the habitation of Thomas Jones, Esq.; this house, which is nearly opposite Plas Newydd, stands on a beautiful eminence, and commands an extensive view of the Straits, as far as Abermenai.—In this neighbourhood, as well as on the opposite shore, are considerable Lime-stone rocks; and indications of Iron Ore have also been observed here, and, we understand, in one instance, a late trial has been attended with success. It is the general opinion, when these two are found in considerable quantities, that Coal is not far distant, and some attempts have been made, at different times, to discover the vein, but hitherto without effecting that object. Near this place is Aber y pwll, a Harbour belonging to Mr. Smith, where his Slate are shipped off, and to which a good new road has, within these few years, been made from his Quarry. Half a mile farther is Moel y Don, a safe and commodious horse Ferry, where no accident has happened in the memory of any person now living. In the life of Gryffydd, ap Cynan, (one of our Welsh Princes) it is said that a Castle was built here, by Aeloedd, King of Dublin, his grandfather by the mother’s side, and there are still some remains of a fortification, on a small eminence, close upon the Menai, about three hundred yards below the Ferry. This place was also rendered memorable on account of a Bridge of Boats, erected here by King Edward the First, A.D. 1282, [63] in repassing which, a detachment of his Army, together with a number of Gascon and Spanish troops, commanded by Luke de Tany, were intercepted by the Welsh, who rush’d on them with hideous shouts, slew numbers, and forced the remainder into the sea. On this occasion perished the General himself, together with Roger Clifford the younger, thirteen Knights, seventeen young gentlemen, and two hundred soldiers. William Latimer alone escaped by the goodness of his horse, which swam with him to the Bridge. Even if we suppose that a panic had seized the English forces at this time, yet a considerable degree of praise is still due to the intrepidity of my countrymen, as, when compared with the troops of other countries, they fought nearly unarmed; in order to be convinced of which, a person need only read a description of their weapons and accoutrements, when they accompanied our valiant Prince Richard Cœur de Lion into France, as given by William Brito, in Camden’s Remains.

When we have proceeded half a mile, we enter the beautiful woods of Llanfair, the delightful seat of John Griffith, Esq. a gentleman, who according the example of his ancestors, and the custom of “those good old times,” resides constantly in the country, and gives employment to a number of poor persons, who would otherwise, in all probability, be chargeable to some Parish; he does not dismiss from his service the super-anuated domestic—relieves the wants of the indigent, and promotes the comfort of the Cottager, by numerous acts of charity, and is an indulgent and generous Landlord. The neatness of the fences, the thriving state of the plantations, the rich appearance of the land, and the judicious management of the Home-stall, together with the improved method of farming, must attract the attention of every passenger. Nearer Carnarvon, on the banks of the Menai, is the small but neat Parish Church of Llanfair Isgaer, partly re-built at the above gentleman’s expence, and from which his mansion takes its name. Not far from hence is Crûg, a house once the property of Sir W. Williams Wynne, but which was purchased by J. Griffith, Esq. of Llanfair; it deserves notice as being the place where Meredith ap Jevan ap Robert of Cesail Gyfarch, ancestor of Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir, was nursed, and from whence he removed to the Castle of Dolydd Helen.—This Meredith (as Sir John Wynne informs us, in the History of the Gwydir Family) married a daughter-in-law of one Spicer, of Carnarvon, who had an office in the Exchequer in that Town, and was a person of £50. per annum, and his son, John Spicer, was a Justice of the Peace, in the first Commissions after the new Ordinance of Wales, as we learn from the same authority. Within a mile of Carnarvon, and near the road, is a handsome modern-built house, Ty Coch, the residence of the Rev. H. Jones.—Near this place once stood an old Mansion, called Plas Bretwn, belonging to the Breretons, a family who probably came to this country with Edward the First, or soon after; and nearly in this direction, a new Ferry was established within these few years, and we lament to state that on the 5th of August, 1820, owing to the very culpable negligence of the Ferrymen, in over-loading the boat, and carrying too much sail, (it being a very windy day) it was upset, and out of 26 persons, one man only was saved.—A similar accident happened about 37 years ago at Tal y Foel, (the Ferry opposite Carnarvon) with this difference, that in the former instance the boat sunk in the day time, and the passengers instantly went down, to rise no more, and in the latter, it struck on a Sand Bank, in the middle of the Channel, during the ebb of the tide, where these unfortunate people remained for many hours, calling for that assistance, which, owing to the darkness of the night; and the violence of the storm, it was impossible to afford them. [66] Proceeding along the road, the traveller cannot but admire the singularly beautiful entrance to

CARNARVON,

which is rendered more striking by the summits of the Castle Towers, Coedhelen Summer-house, as well as the extensive Bay and foaming Bar, being distinctly seen in the rear of the Town.—Caernarvon is situated at the month of the Seiont, on a small Peninsula, formed by that river and the brook Cadnant, on the verge of the Straits of the Menai, which separate this County from the Island of Anglesey; this Town is justly the boast of North Wales, for beauty of situation—goodness of buildings—regularity of plan, and above all for the grandeur and magnificence of its Castle. Here an admirer of nature may forget his cares, in contemplating the greatness of her works, or rather the stupendous operations of His hand, whose Almighty fiat, and creative energy, formed this terrestrial Globe, and called into existence the “everlasting mountains.” This place, from its proximity to these wonderful and impregnable barriers, and its central and salubrious situation, will be found to be a most eligible station, from which the stranger may make various and pleasant excursions, some of which will be pointed out at the end of this article. The town is a square, inclosed with embattled stone walls on three sides; the Castle defending it on the South. In the West wall are two round Towers, and two others protecting the Gate at that point, called by the Welsh Porth-yr-aur, where there it a battery of 7 guns; three on the North, one on the N.E.; two supporting the Eastern entrance, or Porth-mawr, and two to the S.E. making in the whole twelve Towers.

The town is well built, the streets being at right angles, with the principal one, (the High Street). Near the Cross formerly stood the old Town Hall, which continued many years in ruins, but it has lately been re-built in a more specious and handsome manner, and is converted into a commodious Market House, containing Butchers’ Shambles, Fish Stand, and Corn Market; over these is a large room, which is made use of for the boys of the National School, until the building now erecting shall be completed; another containing at present a Depot of Arms, and a smaller one, where the gentlemen of the Savings Bank Committee, together with their Clerk and Treasurer, sit from twelve till two o’clock every Saturday, to receive the weekly deposits; this is a most excellent institution, and ought to be universally known and encouraged.

The Castle is founded on a rock, and is almost entire; the enter walls are of dark grey hewn stone, (a species of lime stone) with an edging of red ones at the corners and about the windows, as also in several fascias, which gives it a handsome appearance. Edward I. built this Castle in a singular and elegant style, (and probably the Town likewise, on the site, and out of the ruins of one more ancient, and bearing the same name [69]) with the revenue of the See of York, then vacant; a deep narrow foss or ditch, which has been filled up some years, once defended it on the North side, or in front, over which there was a drawbridge, leading to the King’s or principal Gate, which had four Portcullises, and was a grand and elegant entrance; above it stood the figure of the Royal Founder, in the act either of drawing or sheathing his sword, probably the latter, in allusion to the Welsh war being ended,—under his feet is a defaced shield: this Gate leads into an oblong Court, originally divided into two parts, the lower, or that end containing the Regal apartments, seem to have been again protected by another Wall and Gateway, now demolished. At the West end of this area is a Polygon Tower, with three hexagon Turrets issuing from its top, on whose battlements were eagles, one of which only now remains, (which is shamefully mutilated and disfigured) whence it was called the Eagle Tower;—we have the authority of Mr. Pennant for saying that the Eagle upon the top of this Tower is with good reason supposed to be Roman, and that Edward found it at old Segontium.—In a small room, within this Tower, eleven feet by seven, Edward the Second is supposed to have been born, April 25th, 1284; a passage separates it from a similar apartment, called the nursery.—The correctness of this statement is however doubted by many, for if we may be allowed to judge, from the small dimensions, and present gloomy and uninviting appearance of this apartment, it does not seem probable, that the Queen of England would select it for the place of her accouchement, when other parts of the Castle afforded much superior accommodations; on the other hand it may be objected, that she might have fixed upon it as the place of greatest security and seclusion,—this however is certain, that tradition, which is often correct, is in favor of the small room.

From the top of the Eagle Tower, which most strangers ascend, the traveller will be able to command a grand, varied and extensive view, comprehending a great part of the Island of Anglesey, the Straits of the Menai, Carnarvon Bay, St. George’s Channel, with the whole range of Carnarvonshire Hills, from the Peaks of the Rivals, on the S.W. to the huge Pen-maen-mawr, on the N.E. being about 36 miles in extent. On the South side, next the River Seiont, are three Hexagon and three Octagon Towers, and others on the North. On the East is a magnificent entrance, called the Queen’s Gate, and through which she is supposed to have entered, with a lofty round Arch and small Postern; leading to which also, there was, no doubt, originally a draw-bridge, over the Moat, which formed the communication between the Seiont and the brook Cadnant, or present mill stream. These Towers communicate all round, by noble galleries, and several of them are surrounded by smaller Towers, peculiar to this and Conway Castle, which seem to have been the Architect’s two Chef d’œuvre. In the North East Tower is a deep well, half filled up, and this, or some other is said to have contained a dungeon, where it is pretended a man being once let down to bring up a dog, found a hammer, and that he saw a wooden door which he was afraid to open; the common people have a tradition, that there was a subterraneous passage either from this place or some other part of the Castle, to Coed Helen wood, on the other side of the river. Some statements assert that this immense Fortress was completed in one year; others, with more probability, assure us that it was twelve years in building. Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton, was appointed master mason, and perhaps was the Architect, and under him must have been numbers of other skilful workmen. The Welsh peasants were employed, no doubt, in waiting upon them, and supplying them with materials, great part of which was brought from the ruins of Segontium, and tradition says that much of the limestone, with which it is built, was conveyed from Twr Kelyn, near Plas Newydd, in Anglesey, and of the grit stone from Vaenol.—The Menai greatly facilitated the carriage from both places. The exterior walls are in general about three yards in thickness; and from its situation and strength, it seems to have been well adapted to overawe the newly acquired subjects of its founder.

This noble and venerable pile, from whatever point it is contemplated, or at whatever distance it is viewed, forms a most interesting object, particularly when it is considered that it was once the residence of Royalty, and gave birth to the first Prince of Wales, of the English line,—what wonder and astonishment must it not have excited in the minds of the poor peasants, dwelling at the foot of Snowdon, and unused to see any other habitations than their own humble dwellings, when beholding this vast and magnificent Castle, advancing by slow degrees, to its present height and magnitude. When it is considered that it has withstood the shocks of more than five hundred winters, it seems wonderful that it should still appear so perfect and entire; for what is there that does not at last fade and decay, and yield by degrees to the war of elements, and the siege of time:

— The Tower, that long hath stood The crash of Thunder, and the warring Winds, Shook by the slow but sure destroyer—Time Now hangs in doubtful ruins o’er its base; And flinty pyramids, and walls of brass Descend; the Babylonian Spires are sunk; Achaia, Rome, and Egypt moulder down. This huge rotundity, we tread grows old; And all those Worlds that roll about the Sun, The Sun himself shall die and ancient night, Again involve the desolate Abyss.

After this Monarch had subdued the Welsh, he began to secure his conquests, by erecting several strong holds, in different parts of Wales, and it appearing that Carnarvonshire, on account of its Mountains and Morasses, was a County very likely to encourage insurrections, he determined to guard as much as possible against such an event, by erecting this and Conway Castle, two of the completest and strongest Fortresses in the Principality, and perhaps not inferior to any in the Kingdom.

The reason generally assigned for the King’s conduct, in bringing his beloved Queen, Eleanor, to such a distance, and at such an inclement season of the year, (for it was in the winter) to lie in, is the following: viz. that perceiving the Welsh remembered but too keenly the oppressions of the English Officers, who in former reigns had been placed over them, they peremptorily informed the King, that they were determined not to yield obedience to any Prince, except one of their own nation; he found it necessary to make use of an innocent artifice, and a pardonable piece of policy: he therefore concealed his intentions for a time, and secretly dispatched trusty messengers to the English Court, in order to conduct the Queen into Wales; and it is related, that soon after the birth of the young Prince, he summoned together the Welsh Nobles, and persons of the greatest rank and influence in the Principality, and asked them whether they would submit to be governed by a young man born in Wales, and one who could not speak of word of English, and that when they answered him in the affirmative, he presented to them his own son, saying to them at the same time (as well as he could pronounce the words) Eich Dyn, [74] i.e. this is your man—corrupted afterwards into Ich Dien. It ought however to have been previously mentioned, that the King was at Rhuddlan Castle, during the Queen’s confinement, and we are informed by Leland, that when Griffith Lloyd, of Tregarnedd in Anglesey, brought him the joyful intelligence of the birth of a son, he was immediately Knighted, and rewarded with one of the Manors of the Welsh Princes, called Llys yn Dinorweg, in the Parish of Llanddeiniolen, now the property of T. A. Smith, of Vaenol, Esq.—The first Governor of this Castle, appointed by Edward, was John de Havering, with a salary of 200 Marks; with which he was obliged to maintain constantly, besides his own family, fourscore men, of which fifteen were to be cross-bowmen, one Chaplain, one Surgeon, and one Smith; the rest were to do the duty of keepers of the Gates, Centinels, and other necessary Officers. In 1289, Adam de Wetenhall was appointed to the same important office. The establishment for Town and Castle was as follows: The Constable of the Castle had sometimes £60. at others only £40. The Captain of the Town had £12. 3s. 4d. for his annual fee; but this office was sometimes annexed to the former, and then Sixty was the Salary for both. The Constable and the Captain had Twenty-four Soldiers allowed them for the defence of the place, at the wages of fourpence per day each. This was considered as the amount of the establishment during peace. The Porter of the Gates of the Town had for his annual fee, £3. 10s. The following are the only instances known, of this place having suffered by the calamities of war, viz. in the great insurrection of the Welsh, under Madoc, in 1294, when they surprised the Town, during the time of a Fair, and put many English to the sword, got possession of this as well as Conway Castle, and made themselves masters of all Anglesey. During the rebellion of Owen Glyndwr, about the year 1404, Ieuan (Evan) ap Meredith, of Eifionydd, and Meredith ap Hwlkyn Llwyd, of Glynn Llifon, had the charge of the Town of Carnarvon, (as Sir John Wynne informs us), and an English Captain defended the Castle; when the said Owen Glyndwr and his party, in revenge at not being able to gain possession, burned Ievan ap Meredith’s two houses, Cefn y Fann, and Kesail gyfarch. Captain Swanly, a Parliamentarian Officer, took the Town, in 1644, made 400 prisoners, and got a great quantity of arms, ammunition, and pillage. The Royalists afterwards repossessed themselves of the place,—Lord Byron was appointed Governor,—was besieged by General Mytton, in 1646, and yielded the place on the most honorable terms. In 1648, the General himself, and Colonel Mason, were besieged in it, by Sir J. Owen, who, hearing that Colonel Carter and Colonel Twisselton were on the march to relieve the place, drew a part of his forces from the siege, in order to attack them on the way; the parties met at Dalar Hir, near Llandegai, Sir John was defeated, and made prisoner; after which, all North Wales submitted to the Parliament.

After this concise History of the Castle, we shall now endeavour to give a short description of the Town, within the walls, and then proceed to the suburbs; the former consists principally of seven streets, viz. The High Street, 2. King Street, or Castle Street, 3. Market Street, 4. Red Lion, or Plas-mawr Street, 5. Black Boy Street, 6. Newgate Street, and 7. Church Street; to which may be added, 8. Pen y Deits, or the head, or end of the Ditch or Moat; 9. Hole in the Wall Street, and, 10. Pepper Alley.

The High Street, which is the handsomest, consists principally of Shops and Lodging-houses, and has in its centre, (or rather at the entrance into Market Street) the old Town Hall, and, present Market House, already noticed; and at the upper or East end, over the Gateway called Porth mawr, is the present Guild-Hall, formerly an Exchequer Office, it was re-built in the year 1767, at the joint expence of Sir William Wynn, and Sir John Wynn, Baronet, as appears by an inscription in front of it; in the interior are handsome Portraits of each, as also of the late Earl of Uxbridge, father of the present Marquis of Anglesey. Here the Member for the Borough is elected; their present Representative is the Hon. Captain Paget. This place is also used as an Assembly Room, where the Michaelmas and other Balls, such as those given by the High Sheriff, during the Assizes, and by Members at elections, are held; and in order to light it up in a handsome manner, the late Lord Uxbridge presented the Corporation with a beautiful glass lustre.

The Corporation consists of a Mayor, who is as such Constable of the Castle; (the appointment is by the King, and continues during pleasure;—the Office is at present held by the Marquis of Anglesey), Deputy-Mayor, appointed by the Mayor; Two Bailiffs and a Recorder, elected annually by the Burgesses; Two Town-Stewards, Two Serjeants at Mace, One Beadle, Four Sidesmen, and Four Constables, elected annually by the Mayor and Bailiffs. These go in procession to St. Mary’s Chanel, 29th September, being Michaelmas-day, and after service return to the Guild-Hall, to elect new Officers for the ensuing year, and admit new Burgesses. There are Borough Courts held here every fortnight, to transact business, and to hear and redress grievances; at the second Court after Michaelmas-day, twelve of the Town Burgesses are sworn as a Jury, whose business it is to perambulate the liberties of the Town, to present nuisances and encroachments, as well as to see what repairs are wanted, and to make a Report of the same. At one of these, the present entrance to the Castle was presented for consideration, whether it would not be adviseable to place it in repair, but from the opinion of an eminent Barrister; who has been consulted on the occasion, it appears that the Corporation have no authority so to do, the property being vested in the King, as are also the Town Walls.