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The Riviera of the Corniche Road

Preface

Reading edition

This book deals with that part of the French Riviera which is commanded by the Great Corniche Road—the part between Nice and Mentone—together with such places as are within easy reach of the Road.

I am obliged to the proprietors of the Times for permission to reprint an article of mine contributed to that journal in March, 1920. It appears as Chapter XXXVII.

I am much indebted to Dr. Hagberg Wright, of the London Library, for invaluable help in the collecting of certain historical data.

FREDERICK TREVES.

Monte Carlo,

Christmas, 1920

Contents

ChapterPage

1.Early Days in the Riviera1

2.The Corniche Road8

3.Nice: The Promenade des Anglais14

4.Nice: The Old Town19

5.The Siege of Nice29

6.Cimiez and St. Pons36

7.How the Convent of St. Pons came to an End41

8.Vence, the Defender of the Faith49

9.Vence, the Town59

10.Grasse67

11.A Prime Minister and Two Ladies of Grasse80

12.Cagnes and St. Paul du Var97

13.Cap Ferrat and St. Hospice104

14.The Story of Eze118

15.The Troubadours of Eze123

16.How Eze was Betrayed127

17.The Town that Cannot Forget135

18.The Harbour of Monaco143

19.The Rock of Monaco151

20.A Fateful Christmas Eve161

21.Charles the Seaman165

22.The Lucien Murder170

23.How the Spaniards were got rid of176

24.A Matter of Etiquette181

25.The Monte Carlo of the Novelist187

26.Monte Carlo191

27.Some Diversions of Monte Carlo195

28.An Old Roman Posting Town206

29.The Tower of Victory214

30.La Turbie of To-day224

31.The Convent of Laghet231

32.The City of Peter Pan239

33.The Legend of Roquebrune248

34.Some Memories of Roquebrune252

35.Gallows Hill259

36.Mentone265

37.The First Visitors to the Riviera273

38.Castillon281

39.Sospel286

40.Sospel and the Wild Boar294

41.Two Queer Old Towns297

Index305

List of Illustrations

A Riviera GardenFrontispiece

FACING PAGE

At the Bend of the Road8

Nice: The Old Terraces16

Nice: Rue du Sénat26

Nice: A Street in the Old Town32

Cimiez: The Roman Amphitheatre36

Cimiez: The Marble Cross40

Cimiez: The Monastery Well40

Vence: The East Gate and Outer Wall52

Vence: The Church and Court of Bishop’s Palace58

Vence: Old House in the Place Godeau62

Vence: Rue de la Coste62

Grasse: The de Cabris House68

Grasse: The Cathedral72

Grasse: The Place aux Aires76

Grasse: Rue de l’Evêché80

Grasse: Rue sans Peur90

Cagnes96

Cagnes: The Town Gate98

Cagnes: The Place Grimaldi100

Cagnes: The Castle100

St. Paul du Var102

St. Paul du Var: The Entry102

St. Paul du Var: The Main Gate102

St. Paul du Var: A Side Street104

St. Paul du Var: A Shop of the Mediæval Type104

Cap de St. Hospice108

St. Hospice: The Madonna and the Tower108

Villefranche110

Villefranche: The Main Street112

A Road in Beaulieu114

Eze120

Eze: The Main Gate124

A Street in Eze134

Eze: On the Way to the Castle138

Eze: All that Remains of the Castle138

Cap d’Ail, near Monaco144

Monaco148

Monaco: The Sentry Tower on the Rampe156

Monaco: The Drawbridge Gate, 1533156

Monaco: The Palace162

Monaco: The Old Hôtel de Ville168

Monaco: The Cliff Garden172

The Gorge between Monaco and Monte Carlo178

The Chapel of St. Dévote184

Monte Carlo from Monaco192

Monte Carlo: The Terrace, Christmas Day196

Monte Carlo: The Casino Garden202

The Roman Monument, La Turbie206

A Corner in La Turbie210

A Street in La Turbie216

La Turbie: Old Window in the Rue Droite216

La Turbie: The Old Bakehouse224

La Turbie: La Portette226

La Turbie: The Fortress Wall, showing the Roman Stones226

La Turbie: The Nice Gate228

Laghet232

Laghet: The Entrance234

Laghet: One of the Cloisters236

Roquebrune, from near Bon Voyage240

Roquebrune: The East Gate246

Roquebrune: The Place des Frères246

Roquebrune: Showing the Castle252

Roquebrune: Rue de la Fontaine256

The Roman Milestones, “603”258

A Piece of the Old Roman Road258

The Roman Fountain near La Turbie260

Gallows Hill262

Mont Justicier: The Two Pillars of the Gallows262

The Chapel of St. Roch 264

Mentone: The Old Town266

Mentone: The East Bay268

Mentone: Rue Longue272

Mentone: A Doorway in the Rue Longue274

A Side Street in Mentone276

A Side Street in Mentone278

Mentone: Rue Mattoni278

Castillon: (In the snow)280

Castillon: The Entry to the Town280

Castillon: The Main Street282

Castillon: The Main Street and Church Door284

Sospel: The Old Bridge286

Sospel: The River Front288

Sospel: The Place St. Michel290

A Square in Sospel292

Sospel: The Ruins of the Convent292

A Street in Sospel294

Sospel: The City Wall and Gate294

A Street in Gorbio298

A Street in Gorbio298

A Street in St. Agnes300

A Street in St. Agnes302

THE RIVIERA OF THE

CORNICHE ROAD

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