CONCISE HISTORY OF NORWICH. [49]

CONCISE HISTORY OF NORWICH. [49]

Its latitude, according to Sir Henry Spelman, is 52 degrees, 45 minutes, North: longitude, 1 degree, 19 minutes, East of the Royal Observatory at Greenwich:—It is 108 miles from London by Newmarket, 114 by Bury St. Edmund’s, and 110 by Ipswich and Colchester.

It is rather more than a mile and a half in length, from King-street-gate to Magdalen-gate; and a mile and a quarter in breadth, from Bishop’s gate to St. Benedict’s gate.

It has thirty-four churches, besides the cathedral, chapels, and dissenting meeting-houses; and is encompassed by a ditch, and the remains of a flint-stone wall, begun in 1294 and finished in 1310, which was flanked with forty towers, in the ancient method of fortification, and had twelve gates for entrances on all sides.

THE CASTLE

Is supposed to have been built by King Canute, the Dane, in 1018; and as far the greater number of his subjects were Saxons, who, at this period, were the first architects, and most probably employed, it is considered as one of the most complete Saxon remains in England.

In confirmation of this opinion, all its ornaments are in the true Saxon style; and the bridge leading to it is unquestionably one of the noblest and most perfect Saxon arches now extant.

The inside, instead of an open yard, was filled up with floors of most magnificent and spacious apartments; traces of which may yet be seen by persons accustomed to examine buildings of this sort. On the ground floor they were vaulted over with stone, for a great part of the old vault still remains; also the great stone arches of the buttresses, and a stone vaulting where the present chapel is. It was used as a prison so early as the reign of Henry I. but not for that purpose solely:—the upper apartments of these towers, were state apartments, for the residence of great officers and their attendants.

Its length is 92 feet, 10 inches; the length of the North and South fronts, 98 feet each: the walls are 50 feet in heighth.

Somewhat resembling the architecture of the Old, is the New Castle, adjoining to it on the East side, built with Scotch granite in the year 1793; apparently of great strength and durability.

The Castle-Hill appears to have been raised by art, with incredible labour: it stands nearly in the center of the city, and commands an agreeable prospect of the surrounding buildings, interspersed with gardens, which, with the adjacent country and river, form a most delightful landscape.

Since the addition of the Gardens round the bottom of the Hill, strangers have acknowledged the view from the summit to be superior to any thing of the kind in Europe, and have justly styled Norwich ‘The City in an Orchard.’

In the Shire-House, which adjoins the Castle on the North side, the Summer Assizes and Quarter-Sessions are held, and other county business transacted.

THE CATHEDRAL

Was founded by Bishop Herbert in 1096, and was chiefly composed of wood, which, by various accidents, and the turbulence of the times, was often greatly damaged.

The present Cathedral is a fine Gothic free-stone building, brought to the magnificent state in which it now appears by the bounty of numerous benefactors, at various times, and completed by William Middleton, the thirty-sixth Bishop, in the year 1284. The roof is adorned with various well-carved images, from the historical passages of scripture. On the windows at the East end of the church is most curiously painted the transfiguration, and the twelve apostles, by Dean Lloyd’s lady.

The shaft, or spire, is handsome and well proportioned. Except Salisbury, it is the highest in the kingdom, being 105 yards, 2 feet, from the pavement to the top of the pinnacle, strongly built with free-stone on the outside and brick within. The top stone of the spire consists of half a globe, 1 yard, 2 inches broad, with a channel round it; whence extend eight leaves of stone, spreading outward, under which commence the eight rows of crockets, continued down the spire, at 5 feet distance from each other. The weather-cock placed here at the restoration, is three quarters of a yard high, and one yard, two inches broad, as is also the crossbar.

The Cloister on the South side of the church is the largest quadrangle of the kind in England, each side measuring 58 yards in length, near 14 feet in breadth, and 16 feet, 6 inches in heighth;—the stone roof is ornamented with elegant carvings, representing the visions of the Revelations, the Crucifixion and Resurrection, the Legends of St. Christopher, St. Lawrence, &c.

At the South-West corner, the Espousals, or Sacrament of Marriage, are carved in stone, and at the entrance of the Cloister from hence, on the left hand, are the two lavatories, where the monks used to wash their hands. Over one of them is carved a fox in a pulpit, in the habit of a secular priest, holding up a goose to has auditory, intended as a reflection on the secular clergy, or parish priests, to whom the monks bore an inveterate hatred.

On the North side of the Cathedral stands the Bishop’s Palace, to which are most elegant gardens.

The Free Grammar school, near this, is a neat, spacious, gothic building, formerly used as a charnel-house.

ST. ANDREW’S HALL,

Formerly the monastery church of the Black Friars, or Benedictine Monks, is a beautiful structure, about 50 yards in length, and 30 in width: the roof is supported by twelve neat and very slender pillars. It was built by Sir Thomas Erpingham, Knt. in 1428; and was the place where the company of St. George used to hold their meetings of business and pleasure.

The Mayor’s guild-feast is always held here.

Over a clock, in the center of the East end, is carved the effigies of Justice, and underneath, the royal arms of England. On each side, the pictures of Queen Anne, George Prince of Denmark, Robert Earl of Orford, John Lord Hobart, afterwards Earl of Buckenhamshire, Horatio Walpole, Esq. Lord Suffield, and two Historical Paintings of Edward and Eleonora, and the Death of Lady Jane Grey, by Mr. W. Martin, between which is placed, in a splendid and emblematical frame, a highly-finished portrait of the brave Lord Nelson, painted by Sir William Beachey, with several Aldermen and Benefactors to the city. The figure of St. George killing the dragon, neatly carved, was placed here in 1686, by order of the St. George’s Company. On the walls of the North and South ailes are placed elegant paintings at full length, superbly framed, of those Gentlemen who have gone through the public offices of the Corporation with dignity and honour.

Against the further pillar on the North side, is an Ensign, 60 feet in length, supported by a flag-staff, near the top of which is an ornamented Shield, with the following Inscription:

“The Ensign of the French Ship, Genereux, Taken in the Mediterranean, Feb. 18th, 1800, By His Majesty’s Ship, Foudroyant, and Squadron, Commanded by LORD NELSON: The Genereux, with the Guillaume Tell, since taken by the Foudroyant, Lion, and Penelope, were the only Ships which escaped the memorable Victory obtained by Lord Nelson over the French, at the Nile, Aug. 1st, 1798.

In testimony of his Gratitude for the Honours conferred on him by the City of Norwich, this Trophy is presented, in the second Mayoralty of Robert Harvey, Esq. by

SIR EDWARD BERRY, KNT. Captain of his Majesty’s Ship, Foudroyant, 1800.”

Herein is a handsome room for the city Library, re-built in the Gothic taste, under the direction of the late Mr. Rawlins.

THE GUILD-HALL.

In this Hall, the assizes and quarter sessions for the city are held. Also the Mayor’s office, for the daily administration of justice; the town-clerk’s and chamberlain’s offices: and all elections for Mayor, Aldermen, Sheriffs and Common-councilmen are here determined.

The windows contained many stories on painted or stained glass, relating to the administration of justice;—there now remain perfect only one large and two small windows, to perpetuate the remembrance of this beautiful art.

The room is adorned with the pictures of King William and Queen Mary, many eminent men of the county, mayors of the city, and other benefactors.

Herein is the following inscription, suspended from a Golden Anchor, at the bottom of which are Lord Nelson’s arms, neatly executed—in the center Tria junca in uno, on one side a Lion, on the other a Sailor, at foot Faith and Works.

“The Sword of the Spanish Admiral Don Xavier Winthuysen, who died of the wounds he received in an engagement with the British Fleet under the command of Admiral Earl St. Vincent, 14th Feb. 1797, which ended in the most brilliant victory ever obtained by this Country over the Enemy at Sea: wherein the heroic Valour and cool determined Courage of Rear Admiral Sir Horatio Nelson, K. B. had ample scope for their display. He being a Native of Norfolk, honoured the City by presenting this Sword, surrendered to him in that Action.”

The City Prison is directly opposite.

ST. PETER OF MANCROFT CHURCH

Was begun in 1430, and finished in 1455. It is esteemed a very handsome parish church: has a fine square tower steeple, 98 feet high, though designed at first to have been much higher, as appears from the double buttresses reaching to the top, and the thickness of the walls: this tower contains an excellent peal of twelve bells, cast by Messrs. Pack and Chapman, of London, in 1775; the Tenor weighing 41 cwt. The whole is covered with lead, and supported by two rows of pillars, remarkably neat and slender, forming eliptic arches at their top.

The altar-piece, representing the story of St. Peter being delivered out of prison, was painted by that ingenious artist Mr. Catton, and presented to the parish by Alderman Starling, in 1768. The furniture of the altar is crimson velvet, and the plate exceedingly grand, all but one cup being double gilt: one piece of it is remarkably curious, being an elegant standing cup and cover of silver, double gilt, weighing 46 oz. 1 gr. 1 pt. given by Sir Peter Gleane, Knight, whereon is beautifully chased the story of Abigail bringing presents to David.

In the vestry hangs a neat old painted carving in alabaster, of nine female saints, probably designed for some altar of St. Margaret, who is the principal figure, and here represented as holding down a dragon; among others, St. Hilda, holding a book and pastoral staff; St. Barbara, a tower and palm-branch. There is also an octavo manuscript bible upon vellum, written in 1340, and a folio manuscript much more ancient, containing all St. Paul’s epistles, with a comment.

THE NORFOLK AND NORWICH HOSPITAL,

St. Stephen’s road, is a very neat edifice: was erected in 1772, and is still supported by voluntary contributions.

The Public Library is now kept at the building formerly the Roman Catholic chapel, in Wymer-street, and contains 5000 volumes, where books are delivered by the Librarian to the subscribers every day between the hours of eleven and two, Sundays and the following days excepted, 29th of May, 4th of June, the Guild-day, and the day preceding; 25th of October and 5th of November.

BRIDEWELL,

Was built by Bartholomew Appleyard, about the year 1370. William Appleyard, his son, the first Mayor of Norwich, served his Mayoralty here in 1403. The North wall of this Bridewell is encrusted with cut flints, and is seventy-six feet in length, by about twenty-five high: it is considered one of the greatest curiosities of the kind in England. The flints are squared to such a nicety, that the edge of a knife can scarcely be insinuated between the joints: most of them are about three inches square, the surface is very smooth, and no brick-work can appear more regular.

Several churches and other buildings in the city are thus built.

Mr. Talman says, that the Jews introduced the art of squaring flints: and Dr. Cromwell Mortimer, Secretary to the Royal Society, in a note on a paper of Mr. Arderon’s on this very wall, observes, that the gate of the Austin Friars, at Canterbury, that of St. John’s Abbey, at Colchester, and the gate near Whitehall, Westminster, are in the same taste. But the platform on the top of the Royal Observatory at Paris, which, in instead of being covered with lead, is paved with flint after this manner, is an instance that the French have in some measure recovered this art. Phil. Trans. Abr. vol. 10. p. 1304.

THE THEATRE

Was built by the late Mr. Thomas Ivory, after the model of old Drury-lane house; and in 1800 underwent an entire, elegant, and spirited alteration, under the direction, and highly to the credit of, the present Patentee, Mr. Wilkins.

The house now contains two circles of Boxes, with side ones on the same tier as the Gallery. There are Stage Boxes the same as those of Drury-lane. The Stage doors are semi-circular, and a Box over them, both of these are filled with a triliage of gold and a small pilaster. The Boxes are supported by small reeded columns of gold, and the front of every Box decorated with coloured Raphael ornaments, on a ground of French grey. At each column are lamps (patent), in the Grecian style, suspended from an antique branch of gold, which gives a brilliancy to the whole. The general tone of colour is a quiet fawn, which is pleasing to the eye, and relieves the pannels of coloured ornaments. The mouldings are gold and white, which give a lightness to the whole. From the entablature or cornice in front, descends a cove, with the Imperial Arms in the centre, admirably executed, painted yellow, and heightened in gold, with this motto, Conabimur (we will endeavour); below this is a rich crimson curtain, with gold fringe, supported by two statues, and on each side of the stage doors are pilasters of gold, reeded, in which every reed plays in the light, and produces the most pleasing effect. There are distinct entrances to each part of the house, Boxes, Pit, and Gallery, and the Box Lobbies are roomy and commodious. At the back of the upper circle is a bar-room, where coffee, tea, sweets, &c. may be procured.

The Assembly-Rooms next it are spacious and brilliant.

There are five Hospitals: one of them, St Giles’, founded originally for the entertainment of strangers, was, by Henry VIII. appropriated to the poor of the city; which maintains 104 poor men and women, who are all cloathed in grey, and must be sixty years of age. Another for 16 poor men and 8 women, whose livery is purple. Cooke’s Hospital, in the Rose-lane, maintains 10 poor women; and Doughty’s, which was founded in 1687, supports 24 poor men and 8 women. The Boys and Girls’ Hospital contain 30 of each, and the boys are from thence put out apprentices. Besides 5 Charity Schools, where 111 boys and 22 girls are taught, clothed, and supplied with books. A number of Sunday Schools under the care of the Rev. Lancaster Adkin, where 133 boys and girls receive every attention, with many advantages—and several other Charity and Sunday Schools, on foundations, or supported by voluntary contributions from dissenting meetings, &c. taking the whole together, educating, clothing, &c. 300 boys and 150 girls.

The City of Norwich has local advantages superior to most cities in the kingdom: a navigable stream to the port of Yarmouth passes through the middle of it, with great convenience for the Wharfage and Delivery of goods of all kinds to and from London.

It is situated on a mixed soil of ground, in a salubrious air, neither subject to violent or scorching heat, nor to moist or watery vapours. The upper stratum of earth is light soil, of sufficient depth for the plough; the under stratum is chalk, gravel, and sand.

It is happily screened and defended from the Easterly winds by a considerable rising ground, called Moushold Heath, which is higher than the tops of the churches in the lower parts of the city.

If abounds in springs of water of the purest kind, nearly equal to the celebrated Bristol water, supplied to the inhabitants by a variety of public pumps.

The City is governed by a mayor, recorder, steward, 2 sheriffs, 24 aldermen, and 60 common council-men; a town-clerk, sword-bearer, &c. The mayor is elected by the freemen on the first day of May, and sworn into office on the Guild-day, the Tuesday before Midsummer-day; except when Midsummer-day falls on a Wednesday, and then the Guild is kept on the Tuesday se’nnight before Midsummer-day. He is chosen from among the Aldermen, is justice of the quorum during his mayoralty, and afterwards justice of the peace for life.

The sheriffs are also annually elected, one by the Aldermen, the other by the freemen, on the last Tuesday in August, and sworn Sept. 29.

The city is divided into twelve wards, viz. Ber-street, Colegate, North Conisford, South Conisford, Coslany, Fyebridge, Mancroft, St. Giles, St. Stephen, East Wymer, Middle Wymer, Weft Wymer; each of which elects two Aldermen.

These twelve wards are again divided into four great wards;

I. Conisford ward contains South Conisford, North Conisford, Ber-street, with the hamlets of Lakenham, Trowse, Milgate, Bracondale, and Carrowe; which is represented by 12 common council-men.

II. Mancroft ward contains St. Stephen’s, St. Peter’s of Mancroft, St. Giles’, with the hamlet of Eaton; and is represented by 16 common council-men.

III. Wymer ward contains East Wymer, Middle Wymer, West Wymer, with the hamlets of Heigham and Earlham; and is represented by 20 common council-men.

IV. The Northern Ward Coslany, Colgate, Fye-bridge, with the hamlet of Pockthorpe; and is represented by 12 common council-men.

The freemen for each ward elect Three Nominees, and the Nominees appoint the other common council-men.

The city sends two members to parliament, elected by the freeholders and freemen; the latter are free by inheritance, purchase, or servitude, in number about 3000. The freemen must have been admitted to their freedom twelve months before they are entitled to a vote.

The Markets are on Wednesdays and Saturdays.