Chapter III · MODERN PAROCHIAL DIVISIONS: THE STREETS, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ETC. THEIR ASSOCIATIONS, EMINENT INHABITANTS, ETC.

“I pray you let us satisfy our eyes With the memorials, and the things of fame That do renown this city.”

Shakspeare.

The parish church of St. Margaret, Westminster, is the mother church of this locality. Although the Decree of 1222, before referred to, limited the western boundary of that parish to the Tyburn stream, it declared that beyond that stream lay the town of Knightsbridge, which belonged to it. In what parish the manor of Eia was situated is not stated, but it is most likely that the higher portion of it was a forest, and the lower, it is certain, was partly a marsh, and consequently altogether unnoticed by the assessors; for the growth of parishes was very gradual, and their proper boundaries for ages undefined. St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields is mentioned as early as 1225, but did not become a regular parish till after 1337, and not independent of St. Margaret’s till 1535. In St. Martin’s the whole of the manor of Eia was then included; it consequently reached as far as the Westbourne, and included a part of Knightsbridge; this arrangement continued till the parish of St. George, Hanover Square, in 1724, was formed out of St. Martin’s, and then this distant part was included, absurdly enough, within the new parish.

On the west of the rivulet, which here divides St. George’s parish from St. Margaret’s and Chelsea, the hamlet stands partly in those and partly in Kensington parish. St. Margaret’s stretches from William Street, behind Lowndes Terrace, across the top of Sloane Street, behind Brompton Road, continuing the line behind Arthur Street to the bottom of Ennismore Mews, where, abutting on the north wall of Brompton Churchyard, it strikes off in a north-west direction and crosses the Kensington Road just below Hyde Park Terrace, whence it runs along the road into the town, and, including a few houses on the north side of High Street, it enters the Royal Gardens, including a considerable portion thereof, and the whole of the palace, within its boundary; it joins Paddington at a point on the Uxbridge Road, and thence returns through the Serpentine to Knightsbridge.

The parish officers of St. Margaret alone beat the bounds now, and they appear always to have been strict in this duty, which, from some entries in their books, one would consider to have been a little festive occasionally:—

1595. Item, paid for bread, drink, cheese, fish, cream, and other victuals, when the worshipfull of the parish, and very many others of the poorer sort, went the perambulation to Kensington, in this hard and dere time of all things, as may appear by a bill of particulars £7 10s. 0d.

1597. Item, for the charges of diet at Kensington for the perambulacion of the parish, being a yere of great scarcity and deerness £6 8s. 8d.

1642. Item, spent at Knightsbridge, when divers of the burgesses and vestriemen of this parish went the perambulation £2 19s. 9d.

1668. Item, expended at a perambulation this yeare at Knightsbridge £26 13s. 4d.

Henry VIII.’s corpse passed through Knightsbridge for interment at Windsor. In the St. Margaret’s books is the following entry:—

1547. Paid to the poor men that did bere the copis and other necessaries to Knightsbridge, when that King Henry the Eighth was brought to his burial to Wynsor, and to the man that did ring the bells £0 3s. 0d.

Chelsea parish includes Lowndes Square and the adjoining streets, while Kensington includes Queen’s Buildings, and a few houses in Sloane Street. Thus is Knightsbridge absurdly divided, when for generations there has existed within it a place of worship which could have been easily rendered the focus of a new and independent parish, had its patrons been so minded. The opportunity was lost when St. George’s was formed, and Trinity Chapel, from having been, as it were, the nursing-mother around which the village gathered, was permitted to dwindle, without a thought for it, into comparative insignificance. This ancient religious edifice I will now give an account of.

TRINITY CHAPEL

Was anciently attached to a Lazar-house or Hospital, with the history of which it is most intimately connected. When or by whom founded is not known—at least, if such is recorded, it is not mentioned by any writer on ecclesiastical affairs; but as it appears always to have been attached to the Abbey of Westminster, we may conclude its foundation was connected with that establishment.

The earliest mention I have met with of the Lazar-house is in a grant of James I., preserved in the British Museum, [52] as follows:—

1605, James R. By ye king,

Trustie and welbeloued wee grete you well. Whereas we are given to understand that the sick, lame, and impotent people in our hospitall of Knighte-bridge, in our county of Middlesex, are greatly distressed for want of wholesome water, both for the dressing of their meat, and for making condiment potions for their sores, and that in our park called Hyde Park, in our sayd county, adjoyning to the sayd hospitall, there is within of 140 paces of the sayd hospitall a meete spring of good water, w^of by pipe of lead of the charge of five and thirty pounds, may safely be brought to serve the sayde house, for their relief in yt behalf, without any inconvenience growing thereby to our said parke; in consideration of ye poverty, and for the contynuall use and ease of ye sayd impotent and distressed people, wee are graciously pleased to bestow uppon them ye sayd sum of xxxvl., lawful money of England, for and towards the charge of bringinge the sayde springe water to the sayde house by pipe of lead. Wherefore our pleasure is, that you, our warden of our Mint, shall appoint workmen, and give order for the doing thereof, and defray the charge, not exceeding the sayd sum of xxxvl.; ffor the which wee do hereby give you full allowance out of those our moneys as remayne in your hande, lately coyned in our Tower. And this shall be our sufficient warrant unto you, and the duplicate of this published by you a sufficient warrant and discharge to ye keeper and keepers of ye sayde parke, and to all other persons that may consent for the doing hereof. Given under our sign, &c., at o^r Castle of Windsor, the sixth day of September, in ye thyrd yere of our raigne of England, France, and Ireland, and of Scotland the thirty-eighth.

To our trusty and welbeloued servant S^r Thomas Knyvett, Knight, warden of our mynt. C. C. Inwood.

But, although this is the earliest document concerning the Lazar-house I have seen, there exist earlier, to which the public have not access. Lysons says there is, among the records of the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, a statement of its condition in 1595, drawn up by John Glassington, Governor of the House, by profession a surgeon, and whose family rented the hospital, &c., from the Church of Westminster (at the rent of 4s. per annum) for many years. In this document he states that there were no lands belonging to this hospital, nor a groat of endowment; that there had been a certain piece, which was then enclosed within Hyde Park, to the great detriment of the charity. He also states that when he became governor, the building was ready to fall; that he had expended above £100 on it; that there were commonly thirty-six or thirty-seven persons in the house, who were supported by voluntary contributions; that the charge of the previous year, in provisions only, and exclusive of candles, linen, woollen, salves, medicines, burials, &c., had been £161 19s. 4d. He adds a list of fifty-five persons whom he had cured, some of whom had been dismissed as incurable from other hospitals. An account of the regulations of the house is subjoined by him, by which it appears that the patients attended prayers every morning and evening, and that on Sundays there was morning and evening service for the neighbours; that those who were able were obliged to work; that they dined every day on “warm meat and porrege,” and that every man had his own “dish, platter, and tankard, to kepe the broken from the whole.” [55]

In the parish accounts of St. Margaret’s are several entries relating to this hospital:

1634. Item, for a pair of sheetes for Jane Clare, when wee sent her to the Spittle at Knightsbridge 3s. 6d.

1638. Item, to Mr. Winter, keeper of the hospitall at Knightsbridge, for the keeping of the Three Innocents for one month 16s.

1639. Item, to Mr. Thomas Neale, for three paire of shoes, two paire for the poore Innocents at the Spittle at Knightsbridge, &c. 6s. 6d.

1646. Disbursements for the poore Innocents in the Spittle, or Lazar-house, at Knightsbridge; sum total, £4 2s. 11d. [56]

There are no books or accounts of the Lazar-house existing at the Chapel now, neither have I been able to ascertain whether they exist elsewhere, or even at all. But in one of the register books still preserved is a list of persons discharged from it; the date of the year is not given, but I have reason to think it about 1676. There are twenty-seven entries, of which the following may serve as samples:—

March 5—Priscilla Knight to London, criple.

,, 6—Mary ffranklin to Berkshire.

,, 9—John Wordner, his wife, to children, to Bristow, criple.

,, 10—Nicholas fflood, his wife, 4 children, to Wales, criple.

,, 18—Robert Dicerson, his wife, 2 children, to Gloster.

These unfortunate creatures most probably begged their way up from the country, and, while inmates here, owed their subsistence to charitable contributions, and, when cured, had to beg their way home again. There was also the following entry in another book, date about 1695:—

“Thomas Pirkin, a soldier under Captain John Callipfield, in Brigadier Solwin’s regiment, died in Hospital in August last past.”

Like its origin, its end is obscure: I cannot trace when, or from what causes, its useful and Christian career was terminated. It was certainly existing when Newcourt was collecting materials for his “Repertorium,” published in 1720, and that is the last allusion to it I can find.

It has always been traditionally related in Knightsbridge, that during the fatal year of the plague, 1666, the institution was for a while given up to those who had been attacked by that scourge; and it is also said that the enclosed plot on the Green was the spot where its victims, here and elsewhere in the locality, were buried.

In Butler’s “Hudibras” (III. c. ii. v. 1110), among other charges Cooper urges against the Presbyterians is, that they

“Fill’d Bedlam with predestination, And Knightsbridge with illumination.”

And the last editor of Gray’s “Hudibras” supposes that by the Presbyterian Illuminati here, Butler alluded to the unfortunate inmates of this Lazar-house! [58a]

There were three other similar establishments in the suburbs of London—namely, at Southwark, Kingsland, and Mile-end. Great care was taken that those afflicted with leprosy, or other such disorder, should be immediately conveyed to one of these places. The law was strictly carried out, and where resistance was made, the sufferers were tied to horses, and dragged thither. [58b]

That the chapel attached to this hospital was of ancient foundation, we may justly infer from its being described as “very old and ruinous, and ready to fall,” as far back as 1629. In that year, for that cause, the inhabitants petitioned Laud, who then filled the see of London, for leave to rebuild it at their own cost, it being the place to which they usually resorted “to perform their religious duties and devotions.” The Bishop, by his licence, dated July 7th, 1629, gave them permission so to do (the consent of the vicar and churchwardens of St. Martin’s being first obtained), “therein to frequent Divine Service and sermons, which Divine offices were to be performed by a sufficient minister, lawfully licensed from time to time,” by the Bishops of London, or their Chancellors for the time being; “provided that the said inhabitants, or their families, did once every quarter of a year repair to their respective parish churches to perform their devotions, and every Easter receive the Holy Communion there, and pay all rights, duties, and profits to their respective ministers to which they did belong,” and this licence was to continue in force during the pleasure of the Bishops of London.

The Chapel was accordingly rebuilt, and “consecrated to the use of the poor of the Hospital,” who “having no maintenance but what they received of alms,” and not being “able to maintain a curate, repair the Chapel, or relieve themselves,” it was, on October 3rd, 1634, according to an arrangement made by the Master of the Hospital, the curate, and some of the principal inhabitants of Knightsbridge, ordered by Dr. Duck, then Chancellor of London, that they, or the major part of them, should let certain pews and seats in such manner as should best effect these objects; that they should keep a register of their accounts, which were to be adjusted every six months, reserving to the incumbents of St. Margaret’s and St. Martin’s their respective rights and emoluments. Dr. Duck presented one piece of the plate used in the celebration of the Communion.

In 1650 the Parliamentary Commissioners appointed to inquire into the state of ecclesiastical benefices, reported that Knightsbridge Chapel, in the parish of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, belonged to a Lazar-house there; that twenty years before the date of inquiry it was re-edified and enlarged by public contributions; and that Henry Walker, the minister, placed there on probation by order of Parliament, received £10 per annum from the inhabitants. The Commissioners afterwards allowed him £40 per annum. [60]

Among the records of the Dean and Chapter is a petition from John Glassington, surgeon, dated 1654, praying to be admitted Governor of the Hospital, which his ancestors had always rented of the church at Westminster; which petition is accompanied by a certificate of Sir John Thorowgood, one of the Commissioners for Middlesex, and an active public officer in this locality at the time of the Commonwealth; but I infer the application was unsuccessful for a time, for in the next year Henry Walker was presented to the curacy by Cornelius Holland and George Reeve, joint-governors of the Chapel. John Glassington was, however, Governor in 1659.

In 1699, Nicholas Birkhead, who was then lessee of the Chapel, rebuilt it, and the present building is mainly his work. In 1789, it was enlarged by its front being brought in a line with the adjoining houses, a grass-plot eight feet deep having previously occupied this space. The present front, galleries, &c., were then erected. At the end of the last century Dixon Gamble, Esq., became lessee, but now it is held direct from the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, who nominate the incumbent. There is an endowment of £30 per annum payable by them, but the income is derived chiefly from the pew rents.

The Chapel is as plain an edifice as possibly can be; there is no ornament of any kind about it. It is built of brick, and is 53 feet long, by 30 feet broad. The gallery is round three sides of the building; the organ, built by Hancock, 1770, being on the south side. The communion-table is at the north end. The front terminates in a pediment, over which is a small cupola containing one bell, thus inscribed—

“Mrs. Mary Birkhed gaue me, 1733.”

In the brickwork are let in three stone slabs, the centre of which is inscribed “Knightsbridge Chapel, 1789;” that on the right is inscribed, “Rebuilte by Nicho Birkhead, Gouldsmith of London, Anno Dom. 1699;” the left or western one has the following emphatic dedication cut in it, [62] “Capella sanctæ Indiuidux Trinitatis.”

The Communion Plate consists of five pieces, all of silver; they are inscribed as follows:—

The Large Chalice.—Sanctæ et Indiuidæ Trinitati—Rest to the Lord:—Mary Birkhead (about 1708.)

The Paten.—Sanctæ et Indiuidæ Trinitati.—The Guift of Arthure Duck, Docter of the Ciuell Lawe and Chancelor of London (1628 or 1629).

The Small Chalice.—Sanctæ et Indiuidæ Trinitati.—The Gift of the Right Hon^bl. and Right Reverent Willm. Lord Bishop of London. [63a]

The Plate.—The Gift of Elizebeth Knightly to Knights-Bridg Church, Oct. 18th, 1705. [63b] There is a coat of arms engraved on the edge of this piece, doubtless that of the donor.

The Flagon is modern, being the gift of the Rev. J. Foyster (about 1825).

The list of its ministers is, as far as I have been able to trace them, as follows:—

1630. Nathaniel White, licensed May 24th.

1637. William Pope—as curate.

1640. Nehemia Dod—as curate.

— Henry Walker on probation till 1655, when he was nominated curate.

1658. Christopher Lee appears to have been minister, but various other names also appear in the registers till May 23rd.

1660. Thomas Wheatley then signs himself “Minister of Knightsbridge.”

1661 (Feb.). Henry Tilley.

1662 (April). Nathaniel Barker.

1663 (April). — Herring (whose name occasionally appears between 1658–60.)

1666. Robert Hodson, till October 20th.

1667. Francis Hall, licensed October 25th.

1669. Henry Herbert or Hubert, S.T.P., licensed April 26th. His signature, however, occasionally appears before this date.

1671. John Cull.

1683. — Sanby, who was minister from January 1st, 1683, to December 31st, 1685.

1686. Henry Watts, who quitted in May, 1695; strangers appear to have officiated till

1696. Thomas Bobar entered on his duties December 4th. He made way for in

1699. Philip Horneck, who officiated from March 9th to October 16th.

1699. Thomas Knaggs appointed curate October 16th; he stayed till January 10th, 1707, when Francis Jeffrey succeeded. But in February, 1708, Mr. Knaggs returned, and was minister till May 17th, 1713.

1713. Robert Hicks, to June 10th, 1719.

1719. Humphry Persehouse, who was minister forty-one years. He resigned in December, 1759, when

1760. — Bailey, chaunter of Westminster Abbey, was appointed on January 1st by the Dean and Chapter. I believe he was succeeded by the Rev. John Gamble, nominated by his father, as lessee. He died in 1811.

1811. — Harris. [65]

1822. J. G. Foyster, M.A. of Queen’s College, Cambridge. He published a volume of sermons preached here. In 1832, Lord Brougham gave him the rectory of St. Clement’s, Hastings, on which he quitted Knightsbridge. He died there May 17th, 1855.

1832. John Martin, who shortly resigned, and was succeeded by the Rev. Hibbert Binney, D.C.L., the late minister, who, since June, 1838 (when he was appointed rector of Newbury), left the chapel to the ministry of the Rev. John Wilson, now D.D., and the present incumbent. Dr. Binney died June 6th, 1857. Among assistant ministers here have been the Rev. Alexander Cleeve, author of several devotional works, who died September 23rd, 1805; the Rev. H. J. Symons, LL.D., who read the burial service over Sir John Moore at Corunna. He gained the notice of the Duke of York in this pulpit, and quitted it for the Peninsula with a regiment, to which he was chaplain.

Baptisms and marriages were formerly solemnised here, and twenty register-books, some very small, and others quarto and folio size, are still preserved. Many of them, however, are but duplicates of the others, and three are memorandum-books of the clerks, with registrations, expenses, notices, and other entries therein. The regular register of baptisms has been missing a very long while, but duplicates of several years have been preserved; with the exception of a few leaves, all the books of expenses are lost also. [67] I have stated before that the books of the Lazar-house are also missing, and so is the burial book, if such ever existed. I shall be glad to quit this statement, so disgraceful to some of the former officials of the Chapel, and give a few extracts from those still fortunately preserved.

Previous to the passing of Lord Hardwick’s celebrated Marriage Act, in 1753, it was not necessary to the validity of a marriage that such should be performed in a church, or solemnised by any religious ceremony. And although the law of the Church visited with censure those who neglected its canon in this respect, yet the Common Law recognised other and more private modes. Consequently around and in London, at almost all the chapels, marriages were performed, and at some in a very discreditable manner. Lord Hardwick’s bill made it necessary to the validity of a marriage that it should be solemnised in a parish church or public chapel where banns had been regularly published. The result was, that as at these chapels banns were not published, marriages therein solemnised were no longer legal; and among others obliged to succumb to this law, Knightsbridge Chapel was one.

It would almost appear that our Chapel had some reputation for its irregularities in this solemnity, if we are to trust some of the pointed allusions in the literature of a bygone currency. Shadwell, in his play of “The Sullen Lovers,” published in 1668, makes Lovell say:—

“Let’s rally no longer: there is a person at Knightsbridge, that yokes all stray people together; we’ll to him, he’ll despatch us presently, and send us away as lovingly as any two fools that ever yet were condemned to marriage.”

And in the Guardian (No. 14, March 27, 1713), a run-away marriage is spoken of as being celebrated “last night at Knightsbridge.” Although such references seem to illustrate what could be only known as a fact, I yet think they were but a jocular remark as regards Knightsbridge, and not indications of a reality. It is scarcely possible to think such would have been allowed in a place of worship, so much under the control of the Dean and Chapter as this was; and many memoranda in the books vindicate its ministers from the charge of winking at wrong, as these allusions insinuate. Of these curious entries I give the following as specimens:—

“Mem.—Thomas Palmer and Ann Clarke: if they come to be maryed, stop them, and send for Mr. Clarke, next doore to the Mitre Tavern in Duppin’s Ally, King Street, Westminster.”

“William Squire, silver-smith, living in Long Acre, who stood father to Elizabeth Goldingham, who was married to Edward Keyn ye 20th of ffebruary, 1690/1, does give this account of the said Elizabeth Goldingham, that she has lodged at his house for 2 years, that she is no heyress, but ffollows the trade of a manta-maker for her living, and further he adds that she has neither ffather or mother liveing, nor no relation who does any way look affter her, but that she is really at her own disposal.”

But although such entries show the rule, I must admit that at a certain period before the time to which the foregoing entries refer, are others which appear suspicious; and if any irregularities occurred I should place them between the two extreme dates, shown in the following extracts:—

1678, April 28. Jacob Stent and Mary Crouch, secrecy for life.

1678, April 28. James Gibson and Anne Tarrant, secrecy.

1678/9, April 28. William Taylor and Elizabeth Steward, great secrecy.

1680, April 25. Edward Charlton and Alice Robinson, secret for 14 years.

1682, May 7. Andrew Barry and Mary Elton, secrecy.

With these curious notices of old systems, habits, and ideas, I proceed to give some extracts from the registers, selecting those referring to eminent persons, and which contain allusions of interest and peculiarity. The earliest entry of baptisms is the following.

1663, Aug. 28. Will, ye sone of will birke of this hamlett, by Mr. Herring.

1667, Jan. 23. Sofiah London, the daughter of Richard London and Mary his wife.

A family named London lived in this locality many years, and there are several entries of the name. Probably the celebrated gardener so named, who will be afterwards noticed, belonged to it.

1668. Nathaniel, son of William Ipsley, baptised, September 8th.

Most probably this name should be Hipsley. Persons of this name were clerks here many years.

1670, Nov. 3. James, son of James and Mary Rouse.

1675, Feb. 19. Dorothy, daughter of James Took, Esq., and Magdalen his wife. Westminster parish.

1675, April 11. William Lord, son of Robert and Anne Thurlow.

A family of this name lived in the St. Margaret’s part of the hamlet in the 17th century.

1675, Nov. 5. Joan, daughter of Robert and Hester Gunter, baptised.

Persons of this name may be traced from this period to the present time in our locality. It is the earliest entry of the name I have found.

1676, Jan. 8. Margerite, the daughter of Elizabeth Bedford by Mr. Philip Thomas.

1677, June 17. Tristram, the son of Tristram and Anne Huddlestone.

1677, July 20. George, son of Berkley Trye, Esq., by Mary his wife, baptised by Jo. Andrews, entered at St. Martin’s.

The Tryes are a very ancient Gloucestershire family.

1678, Jan. 3. Robert, son of Robert and Hester Gunter.

1681, April 11. Anne, the daughter of George Sams by Martha Wheatley, his servant, as ’tis told me.

1682, May 27. Thomas Dennis, 30 years of age, was baptised.

1683, March 4. Jane Rutter was baptised. A black woman.

1689, June 27. ffrances Wharton, the daughter of Jane Wharton, a child of base (birth).

1691, Dec. 21. Hannah Hipsley, daughter of Thomas and Mary Hipsley, by Mr. Watts. Born Dec. 6th.

1692, Feb. 14. Margaret Tarbet, the daughter of Margaret Perryvil; being a woman-child that fell in travail in ye street.

1702. Mary, daughter of Thomas Werd by Mary his wife, was baptised the 3rd of May by Mr. Killberk.

This is the last baptism recorded, and only one is entered between October 16th, 1694, and this date: the others are missing; and though I know baptisms were occasionally solemnised here even to the end of the last century, no later record has been preserved.

MARRIAGES.

There are no registers of marriages here now, anterior to April 1st, 1658, but in the Bishop’s register are some earlier ones, the first of which is the following:—

16th April, 1632. Thomas Herbert, of Hammond Head, com. York, Esq., bachelor, 24; and Lucy Alexander, spinster, 20, daughter of Sir William Alexander.

The earliest in the Chapel register book is as follows:—

1658, April 1. William Eaton and Jane Hurley were married.

1661, ffeb. 10. Richard Steele and Eliza Cotterill per me Ant. Dode.

1666, July 17. William Adkins and Katherine Edwards at ye Bowling Green.

The Bowling Green was perhaps at the Spring Garden, afterwards to be noticed.

1666, Oct. 14. Thomas Clark and Elizabeth Milton.

1667, April 16. Philip Wharton and Hester Bewley.

1672, June 11. Sir Philip Harcourte and Eliz Lee married by Mr. Cull.

1672, July 13. Robert Chaloner, esq., and Dorothy Britten.

The Chaloners were one of the few old Middlesex families. They were seated at Chiswick.

1675, Feb. 16. Christopher Benson and Eliz. Hilliard, belonging to ye vice chancellor.

1675, Nov. 24. Gabriel Hipsley and Penelope ffry.

1676, May 7. Nicholas Brady and Bethia Chapman.

1676, Oct. 27. Arthur Deavereux and Anne Ireland in pompe Courte in ye midle temple, 3 payre of stayres.

1677, July 17. Hugh Middleton, esq., and Mrs. Dorothy Oglander, married by Mr. Nath. Cole, dd, his majesty’s Chaplain in ordinary.

1678, Feb. 21. William Harbord, esq., and Mrs. Katherine Russell by Mr. James Symonds.

1678, July 23. Sir James Hayes and Grace Clavering.

1678, August 3. Sir John Lenthall and ye Lady Catherine Lant, secrecy, by Mr. Joseph Stretch, minister.

Sir John Lenthall, only son of the Speaker, was Governor of Windsor, under Cromwell, and knighted by him in 1657. On May 21, 1660, he moved in the House of Commons that all who had borne arms against the king should be exempted from pardon; and for such was called to the bar, reprimanded, and degraded his knighthood. He afterwards lost his seat upon petition against his return. He died in 1681.

1678, August 15. Robert Grime and Barbara January, the king’s taylor, nexte doore to 3 tuns taverne lane.

1679, April 10. Thomas Lant, esq., and Mrs. Jane Bromfield.

1681, Feb. 20. John Stibbs and Sarah Cromwell.

For the last 250 years a family named Cromwell—and which, in the last century, branched out considerably—has been resident in this part of Middlesex. Cromwell, the minister of Henry VIII., was born at Putney, not far out of the county; and Sir Richard Cromwell (grandfather to Oliver the Protector), signed himself in letters to the “Mauler of Monasteries” his most bounden nephew. In 1691 a Robert Cromwell lived at Kensal Green, and is probably the person of the same name who sat on the jury at the trial of Daniel Axtell. For many years a brewery at Hammersmith has been conducted by persons of this name, not improbably descendants from the Putney blacksmith.

1682, January 31st. John Cull, curate of Knightsbridge, and Martha Turner, by Mr. Yearwood.

Mr. Cull was minister here twelve years. He died in 1683, and was buried at Kensington on the 21st September.

1682, Dec. 24. Sir John Hatton and Mary Hinton.

1683, July 3rd. Heale Hooke, Baronet, and Hester Underhill by Seyward of Kensington.

Sir Hele Hooke, for many years a resident in Kensington Square, died there in July, 1712, by which the title became extinct. Mr. Seward was curate there. (See Faulkner’s “History of Kensington.”)

1685, Sept. 12. David Gunter and Eliz. West.

1686, Sept. 4. Sir Francis de Geilhausen and Flora Bishop for Feb. 6, 1685.

1687, Feb. 1. Sir Samuel Morland, Knight, and Mrs. Mary Aylif, secrecy.

This entry records the unfortunate marriage of the celebrated inventor, described by himself in such terms of misery, to the diarist Pepys. In all the biographies of Morland I have referred to, and even in Burke, his wife’s name is not given, and therefore I presume it has hitherto been unknown. The wedding was, as the register tells, private; and eighteen days after it took place, he wrote to Pepys, that, “being in very great perplexities, and almost distracted for want of moneys,” a person whom he had befriended in time of need proposed to recommend him an heiress, “who had 500l. per ann. in land, and 4,000l. in ready money,” and property of other kinds. “Believing it,” he writes, “utterly impossible,” that one whom he had assisted, “should ever be guilty of so black a deed” as to betray him in his distress, “I was, about a fortnight since, led as a fool to the stocks, and married a coachman’s daughter, not worth a shilling,” and whose moral character proved to be none of the purest. He, procuring evidence (shortly after) of adultery, took the case into the Ecclesiastical Court, which granted a divorce on that ground on May 17. [78] It was the fourth time Sir Samuel tied the matrimonial knot, and the last.

1687, May 3. Sir William Moet, and Antonetta Willobe.

1687, Sept. 1. John Atley and Mary Crumwell.

1689, Jan. 7. Richard Bailey and Eliz. Shakespeare.

1690, July 20. Sir Thomas Fautherly and Mrs. Frances Brown.

1690, July 31. John Lenthall and Eliz. Wildman.

1693, Jan. 8. Thomas Cromwel and Ann Smith.

1694, Aug. 12. Edward Shaxspear and Eliz. Ward.

1695, May 26. Tristram Huddleston, Gentleman of St. James’, W^mr., and Mrs. Mary Darker of the same.

1695, Nov. 16. John Baptist Renoult, Minister of the parish of St. Ann’s, Westminster, and Amery Henri, Widd.

1696, July 23. John Line of St. Martin’s Neat Houses, and Dorothy ffall, spinster of St. Margaret’s, Westminster.

1697, Jan. 30. Jasper Arnold, Gent., of St. James, Westminster, and Antonett Culmer of Kensington, spinster.

The Arnolds were a numerous and opulent family long resident in Westminster. Families of the same name, and probably connected, also resided in Knightsbridge and Kensington for above a century. One of the Westminster Arnolds was a brewer, and a juryman on the trial of the Seven Bishops. (See “Macaulay’s History.”)

1698, August 21. George Cumming, Taylor, at ye Woolstaple, near great Tom, St. Margaret’s, Westminster, and Mary Watson of the same place.

1698, Dec. 18. William ffinton, Life Guardsman in college-street, near ye Black dog: Catherine Llewyllen in Dean’s Yard, Westm^r.

(Black Dog Alley still exists in College Street.)

1699, Jan. 1. Thomas Lewsie, peruke maker in ye pel-mel at ye sign of ye two pidgeons, in St. James’ Westm^r, and Mary pigot, of St. Paul’s, Covent Garden, in maiden lane.

1699, Jan. 23. Richard Green, Barber, in St. Brides, at ye Barber’s pole near ffleet-bridge, ye corner house but one, and Mary Truby of ye same place.

1699, May 23. Thomas Fenwick of St. Margaret’s, Westminster, serv^t to Storey at ye Park Gate, and Mary Gregory of ye same.

This notice is curious: Story’s Gate, named from the person here noticed, is the entrance into St. James’s Park from Bridge Street. Story was keeper of the Aviary to Charles II., hence Birdcage Walk.

1699, August 18. Cornelius Vander Velde, Limner, of St. Giles’, living in Dyot street, over agt ye Sparrow’s Nest, and Bernada Vander Hagen, of ye same.

Cornelius Vander Velde was brother to William Vander Velde the elder, the great painter of sea pieces. He was himself a painter of nautical subjects, and in the employ of Charles II. This is an addition to Walpole’s notices.

1699, Nov. 16. Charles Goring, Gentleman of Heysdown, in the parish of Washington, and Frances Bridger of Hams in ye same county. (Sussex) by Mr. Knaggs.

Mr. Goring afterwards succeeded to the baronetcy.

1700, July 30. Rob^t Walpole, Esquire, of Houghton in ye County of Norfolk, and Katharine Shorter, of ye Parish of St. James, Westm. by Mr. Prevoste.

This record is that of the celebrated minister of the first two Georges. His wife was daughter of a Lord Mayor of London, and mother of the celebrated Horace.

1700, Nov. 22. Miles Pennington, Gent., living in Tuttle Street, at ye sign of ye Green Dragon, and Eliz. D’oyley of the same.

1703, March 4. John Oldmixon and Elizabeth Parrey.

1703, Dec. 25. Benjamin Houghton and Eliz. Mandeville.

1704, April 28. John Every, Esq., and ye Hon^ble Martha Thompson.

Mr. Every afterwards succeeded his brother in the baronetcy; his wife was daughter of John, Lord Haversham.

1705, Jan. 6. Sir William Humphrey and Eleanor Lancashire.

Sir William was Lord Mayor in the first year of George I., and entertaining the new king at Guildhall, was made a baronet. His wife was widow of a London merchant.

1705, Jan. 8. Charles Danvers and Margaret Evans.

Danvers has been a name in Chelsea these 250 years past, and is still to be found there. Sir John Danvers, of Chelsea, was one who signed the death-warrant of Charles I.

1705, May 23. Henry Graham, Esq., and Mary, Countess of Darentwater.

This lady was the youngest natural daughter of Charles II., by Mrs. Davis the actress, and known before marriage as Lady Mary Tudor. On August 18, 1687, being then only in her fourteenth year, she was married to Edward Radcliffe, afterwards second earl of Derwentwater, by whom she became mother of that ill-fated earl executed on Tower Hill for his share in the Rebellion of 1715; of Charles Radcliffe, who also perished on the scaffold thirty years after, and of two other children. Her husband, from whom she separated in 1700, died April 29, 1705; and within a month, as this record shows, she married Henry Graham of Levens, Esq., who died the following year. She married thirdly James Rooke, whom she likewise survived. She died at Paris, November 5, 1726, in her fifty-fourth year.

1710, May 30. Sir Tho. Robinson, Baronet, and Mrs. Elizabeth Hare by license. Tho. Yalden, S.T.P.

Sir Thomas Robinson, grandson of Sir Thomas Robinson, killed in jumping from a window to escape from a fire in his chambers in the Temple. His wife was daughter of Sir Thomas Hare of Stow Bardolph. The officiating clergyman was doubtless the poet of that name.

1710, Dec. 13. Charles May, esq., and Mrs. Jane Middleton.

1712, Jan. 19. Mr. Martin Purcell and Mrs. Mary Glagg.

1721, June 19. Charles Vanbrugh, esq., of the parish of St. Martin in the Fields, and Anne Burt of ye same, married by Dr. Hough, rector of St. George’s.

Most probably this gentleman was brother of the celebrated architect and dramatist, Sir John Vanbrugh. His brother Charles was baptised Feb. 27, 1680.

1721, July 22. The Hon. Josias Burchett of St. Martin in ye Feilds, esq., widower, and Margaret Aris, of St. Anne’s, Westminster, widow.

1726, June 8. Francis Bytheway of St. Clement’s Danes, Batchelor, and Ann Persehouse of St. Martin’s in ye feilds, spinster.

1730, May 7. Noel Broxholme, M.D., St. James, Bachelor, 40, and Mrs. Amy Dowdeswell, St. Ann’s Westminster, widow.

1741, May 26. The Rev. Mr. John Pettingall of St. Margaret’s, Westminster, Batch: and Susanna Long of ye same, spinster.

Mr. Pettingall was minister of Duke Street Chapel, Westminster.

1752, Dec. 2. John Fry ye younger, of Bromley in ye County of Middx, and Elizabeth Eveleigh, of ye same, spins.

This is the last entry; and the blank pages after show it to have been the last marriage solemnised here.

In Wilkinson’s “Londina” the following curious extracts from the Accounts are given:—

Monye laid out for and toward y^e reparation of the said Chappell as followeth:

* October 17, 1655.

To the plumer for a gutter of lead 18 of April, 1656 (Qy. 1655) 01 10 3

To Edward Rowles 00 08 3

To Robert Darwinn, for mendinge the great window nexte the pulpit 00 12 0

* 1656.

To John Fitzwalter and his labourers 00 06 0

ffor lathes, nails, and lime, and sand 00 06 0

ffor three hundred of tiles 00 09 0

To Rowles his man for mendinge the Chappell doore, and bell 00 02 0

* 24th October, 1657.

To Thomas Austin and his labourers 01 04 8

To Darwinne for mendinge the north windows 00 08 0

Memorandum undated, but I think 1658 is the year:—

Monnies gathered by the inhabitants of Knightsbridge for & towards the Reparations of the Chappell called Trinitie Chappell, belonginge to the Hospitale, Spittle, or Lazar House of Knightsbridge:

lb. s. d.

The Lady Stonehouse 00 10 0

Mr. Hall 00 05 0

Mr. Pate 00 02 0

Mr. Callaway 00 02 0

Mr. White 00 02 6

Mr. Harris 00 02 0

Mr. Boll 00 01 6

Mr. Lewis 00 01 0

Goodman Paldin 00 01 0

Mr. Hickman 00 01 0

Som toto 01 08 0

More Collected the 29th day of June at the Chappell doore at the Requeste of Mr. Anthony dod, minister of Paddington:

01 01 1

1 8 0

2 9 1

More Collected the 01th day of April att Chappell doore att the Request of Mr. Lee, Minister now present of Trinitie Chappell of Knightsbrige the some of fiftye eight shillings two-pence, by us 58s. 2d.

2 18 2

Christopher Lee Tho. Turner Richard Halloway.

July, 1659.

Received of the Lady Langton (for her entrance into her yere) towards the repayringe of the Chappell, the some of 2 02 00 0

Received of Mr. Hall the same month 00 02 6

* The 9th of June, 1659. [86]

Received of John Glassington, Governour of the Hospital of Knightsbridge the some of 10s.—which was collected for a breefe for and towards the losses by fire in the parish of Brides’, London, I say received by me,

Witness, Anthony Dod.

John Gray.

* The 27th Day of ffeb^r, 1658.

Then received of Mr. Glassington of the Hospitall of Knightsbridge, for the use of the Bayliffe and Burgesses of East Thetford (Retford), in the County of Nottingham, the some of ten shillings, which was gathered for the rebuilding of the church of East Thetford aforesaid.

Tho. Mason.

The following entry refers, perhaps, to the law which made conformity to the Church of England a necessary qualification for official employment:—

Mr. Gamaleon Capell and Mr. John Adams received the Communion in Trinitie Chappell at Knightsbridge the 14th day of July, 1680.

And the next is an instance of the operation of a very absurd and immoral law:—

August ye 6, 1695. Rec^d of Mr. Tho. Hipsley [87] ten pounds and seven shillings and six pence by order of ye Comishenors for Marridges in Knightsbridge Chappell, at to shillings and six pence per Marridg:

By us

Jos. Radliff Laine Mease.

The next extract informs us the rental received by the Birkheads as lessees; for I presume it to be a receipt for the whole year:—

Rec^d the third day of Jan^y, 1701, of Mr. Thomas Hipsley the sum of fforty nine pounds for Rent, allowing all the King’s Taxes to Christmas day last past, it being in full for Rent to the said Christmas day. p. me,

Mary Birkhead.

In Chelsea Register (1699) is the following entry—“Gave to the Beadle of Knightsbridge, [88] yt brought Sir Thomas Ogle’s childrens clothes, at their first coming to the parish 0 . 0 . 6.”

Regarding burials, the only entry in the books recording such is the following:—“Mrs. Smith the wife of Edward Smith of Bromtone deced the 5th day of March, and was bereed the 6th day of ye same month 1667.” If persons were interred here in any number, the interments ceased most probably before 1683, when Mr. Cull was buried at Kensington. No register of such is to be found now, although the tradition was very strong that the enclosure on the Green was consecrated for the resting place of the dead.

Before concluding this account of the Chapel I must notice the Birkhead family, with whom it was so many years connected. They appear to have held considerable property in the hamlet, but I have not been able to trace their history, other than what the following extracts from the registers inform us:—

1672 May 28th. “Nicholas Birkhead and Susan Robinson, married by Dr. Littleton.”

This, doubtless, was the “gouldsmith” who “rebuilte” the chapel: Dr. Littleton was rector of Chelsea, and celebrated for his Dictionary and other literary productions.

1678. Nicholas ye son of Nicholas Birkhead, junior, by Susanna his wife, bapt. Aprill 30th 1678: in the parish of Buttolphe’s, Aldersgate, London.

This relates evidently to the same person: the other notices are as follow:—

1688 July 1. John Clements and Eliz. Birkhead.

1689 Aug 20. Edward Nowell and Eliz. Birkhead.

1693 April 27. Thomas Rouse and Hester Birkhead.

1694 July 15. Richard Wright and Eliz. Birkhead.

1694 Aug 27. James Birkhead, Joyner, of St. Andrews, Holborn; and Anne Jinks, spinster of St. Giles’ in ye fields.

1705 Feb 10. John Birkhead and Ann Gurney.

1723 June 18. Edward Brind of Buckingham, Batch, and Elizabeth Birkhead, of St. Martin’s in ye fields, spinster. [90]

Here my account of this ancient foundation, which has afforded, bodily and spiritually, aid to thousands, before the more splendid structures which now eclipse it were erected, must close. I own I feel a deep interest in the old place, shorn as it is of its usefulness in great measure; and it is with regret I am compelled to bear witness against those superiors of the venerable Abbey, to which it was attached, for permitting its decay to go on, without one single attempt to renovate it with fresh life and vigour. I cannot find that they have for the last 150 years aided it, or held out the parental hand in any way. They have appointed its ministers, have allowed them a miserable endowment, and this is the sum of their support. With the rentals they have drawn from Knightsbridge for so lengthened a period, Church and Hospital ought now to stand, both flourishing in useful prosperity, monuments alike to the piety of our ancestors, and to the conservative care of their descendants, who had striven to emulate their goodness by the extension of the blessings their bounty bestowed. Is it so, that in this district nothing can be done in the nineteenth to remedy the faults of the eighteenth century?

In connection with Trinity Chapel was a school, founded in 1783, chiefly by the exertions of John Read, who will be hereafter further noticed. The education afforded was substantially good, better than most schools of the same kind generally afforded, and was entirely free. Its support was derived from the contributions of the public, and collections at the Chapel. For many years the number was limited to 34 boys and 18 girls, but in 1832 it was increased to 45 boys and 25 girls, beyond which number the income of the Committee would not allow them to extend. To Mr. Kember, its Treasurer, for many years the institution mainly owed its existence; but at length, in 1844, the subscribers at a general meeting transferred the institution, and attached it to the new church of St. Paul.

Before this school was founded it would seem one of a similar kind had previously existed, for Northvouck mentions one here, but with 6 boys and 6 girls only.

St. Paul’s Church.—In this section the two churches to which the Hamlet of Knightsbridge mainly pertains will be described. St. Paul’s claims priority.

The first stone of St. Paul’s was laid November 6th, 1840, in presence of nearly 500 persons, by George Drummond, Esq., of Wilton Crescent. The want of Church accommodation had been greatly felt, and in this year measures were taken to realise that want. Public subscriptions were commenced, and a large sum subscribed; [92] but after the work had for some time been progressed with, it was stopped from lack of resources; this difficulty was, however, surmounted, and on June 30th, 1843, the edifice was consecrated by Dr. Blomfield, Bishop of London, who preached on the occasion from the 4th chapter of St. John’s Gospel, verse 14.

The site on which it stands was formerly an exercising ground belonging to the foot-barrack, and was given by the Marquis of Westminster (who likewise contributed £500 towards the organ), the lease being purchased of the late Mr. Phillips.

The Church is one of the most handsome of modern architecture in London, and a great credit to its designer Mr. T. Cundy. Its style is that known as Early Perpendicular; it is 106 feet in length, by 59 feet 6 inches in breadth; the height is nearly 50 feet. It consists of a nave and two aisles, with a chancel at the east end on an ascent of four steps; around the Church, along three of its sides, galleries are placed; in the west gallery is the organ, and on this side are also galleries above for the school children. At the west end is a lofty and very handsome tower, having an arch open on three sides at its base to form the porch, above which it is carried to the height of 121 feet, in two storeys, each containing a large and beautiful window, sides and front. It terminates with an embattled parapet of open-work, and eight crocketted pinnacles, four of which rise from the angles. The tower contains a clock by Dent, and three bells by Meares; the tenor weighs 22 cwt. 11 lbs., second 8 cwt, the small one 6 cwt. 4 lbs.

The chancel forms a very handsome termination to the interior; the reading-desk and pulpit respectively occupy places at the north and south corners of its entrance, while in advance, occupying a central position, is the lectern, presented by the Rev. W. Bennett. In the south side of the chancel are three sedillæ; over the Communion table are three compartments of stonework, on which are inscribed the Lord’s Prayer, the Ten Commandments, and the Creed; above the stonework it terminates in a rere-dos, over which is the great window of stained glass by Wailes, pourtraying the Prophets and the Twelve Apostles. This window and ornamental stonework cost about £1,000.

The font is of Caen stone, of beautiful design, and five feet eight inches in height; it is of octagonal form, the panels being divided by buttresses, the projecting portion of each resting on an angel, each angel either clasping its hands, or holding a shield or book bearing some symbol corresponding with the subject of the panel immediately preceding. Under each panel is a boss, representing some plant answering to the subject on the panel. The shaft, supporting the whole, is placed on two steps; it consists of eight mullioned arches, and as many buttresses decorated. It is the work of Mr. Charles Physick, of Gower Street, and was presented by the Rev. D. A. Beaufort, Mr. Bennett’s successor at Portman Chapel. Its cost was £100.

The organ is a very powerful one; its case was designed by Mr. Cundy, and harmonises with the general character of the Church. It covers 14 feet square, and is 30 feet high.

The roof is open, and is said to be the largest unsupported by pillars of any ecclesiastical edifice in the metropolis. It is of timber, and the tie beams are filled with tracery.

Of the eight handsome windows of each side of the church, two in the north and six in the south are filled with stained glass, all by Wailes, of Newcastle, representing the most remarkable scenes and actions of St. Paul, and of those Apostles whose names are to be read on each window. Four of these windows were erected to the memory of various members of his family by J. T. Horne, Esq.; one to John Backhouse, Esq., of the Foreign Office, born October 14th, 1784, died November 13th, 1845; one to the late Viscount Newry, to the Misses Alice and Caroline Colvile, and one to Miss Caroline Carr. There is one also to Patrick Fraser Tytler, born August 30th, 1791, died December 24th, 1849: he was author of “A History of Scotland,” “Lives of Sir Walter Raleigh,” “Henry VIII.,” and other works that have assumed a standard position in our literature.

The church will hold nearly 1,600 persons; 600 of the sittings are free.

The Rev. W. J. E. Bennett was nominated to the incumbency by the Bishop of London; but certain differences having arisen between him and the Bishop, he resigned in March, 1850, when the Hon. and Rev. Robert Liddell was appointed in his stead.

The following is a list of the Churchwardens:—September 30, 1845, Hon. Eliot Yorke, M.P.; Charles Briscoe. (These gentlemen were re-elected also for the three following years.) 1849, April 10, Sir John E. Harington, Bart.; Charles Briscoe. 1850, Sir J. E. Harington; Charles Briscoe. 1851, April 21, T. H. Sotheron, Esq., M.P.; J. H. Tuck. 1852, April 13, Viscount Castlereagh; J. H. Tuck. 1853, March 29, T. H. Horne, Esq.; Charles Westerton. 1854, April 18. This was a contested election: opposition having been made by Mr. Westerton to the mode of conducting Divine Service, and other matters connected with the Church, he was opposed by Thos. Davidson, Esq.; but after a poll, the numbers were declared to be—for Mr. Westerton, 203; Mr. Davidson, 200. Mr. Horne was renominated; but a caveat being entered against this election, the case came on for adjudication before Dr. Phillimore, in the Archdeacon’s Court, on May 30th, 1854, who declared the election null, in consequence of the rejection of the votes of certain parishioners; and a new election taking place on June 15th, the same gentlemen were again nominated, and, after a poll of two days’ duration, the result was declared to be—for Mr. Westerton, 651; Mr. Davidson, 323. 1855, April 10, W. H. Jackson, Esq.; Charles Westerton: and the same gentlemen still fill the office.

All Saints’ Church.—This handsome edifice was consecrated by the late Bishop Blomfield on Saturday, July 21st, 1849. It was erected to supply a very great want, for previously this isolated portion of St. Margaret’s parish was destitute of a place of worship for the members of the Church of England. Within the last twenty years the population has vastly increased; and houses of first-class character have covered the nursery-grounds and fields formerly abounding.

All Saints’ Church was erected from the designs of Mr. Vulliamy, in the Lombardic or Byzantine style of architecture, and when completed will be one of the most original and striking edifices in London. It consists of a nave, and side aisles, divided by pillars polished to imitate marble, terminating in an apse, forming the chancel, and the roof of which is a blue ground spangled with gold. Galleries are erected round three sides; in the western one is a very fine organ. The roof is open, of woodwork, and harmonises pleasingly with the other parts of the building, although comparatively plain.

A tower at the west end, and a suitable enclosure before the entrance, yet remain to be accomplished, ere the work of completion is done. The estimated cost of these works amounts to £2,100; and it is to be hoped that the necessary funds may not be long forthcoming, to hinder their commencement.

The minister is the Rev. William Harness, known for his edition of Shakspeare and other contributions to current literature; and the senior curate is the Rev. Mackenzie Walcot, whose “Memorials of Westminster,” and other works on the ancient city, have rendered him its most popular and pleasing historian.

Charles R. Harford and James Baber, Esqs., were the first chosen churchwardens, and filled the office continuously till the present year, when W. Aldridge, Esq., was instituted in room of Mr. Harford.

Albert Gate occupies an arched surface over the bed of the Westbourne, which was here open and crossed by two bridges, one just within the Park, and erected about 1734; the other, the old bridge from which our Hamlet is named. On its west side was the “Fox and Bull;” on its east a low court of very old houses, named after the “White Hart,” which, with these other buildings and the Cannon Brewhouse, were entirely removed by authority of an Act of Parliament (4 Vict., c. 12) passed March 10th, 1841, which empowered the Commissioners of Works to purchase the land on which these tenements stood and the buildings thereon, for the purpose of forming a new entrance to Hyde Park. Accordingly, these improvements were carried out, and the iron gates, which are of a very chaste design, were fixed August 9th, 1845. The two stags on the side pedestals formerly performed the same watch and ward at the Ranger’s Lodge in the Green Park. They were modelled from a pair of prints by Bartolozzi.

Part of the ground bought by the commissioners they leased for ninety-nine years to Mr. Thomas Cubitt, who immediately built on the eastern side a large mansion, for which it is said Mr. Hudson, M.P., paid him £15,000. It is now the residence of the French Ambassador: here our Queen paid a visit in state on May 12, 1854; and the Emperor Napoleon held a Levee on his visit to her in May, 1855.

This house was at first the butt of the London wits, who named it Gibraltar House, affirming it would never be taken. This opinion did not deter Mr. Cubitt from erecting another, now the London and County Bank Branch; and a third is now nearly finished for Captain Layland. Architecturally, there is nothing in these mansions to admire, notwithstanding the arrogance with which they force attention. Though so gigantic, they are not imposing; of an unusual altitude, they are destitute of ornament, and can only be likened to some “tall bullies,” determined even in vulgarity to lord over their fellows.

Brompton Road: a row of houses built about twenty years since on the garden of Grosvenor House. The National School House attached to Brompton Church was built in 1841, in the Tudor style, from designs by Mr. George Godwin.

Ennismore Place and Terrace, built by Elger on land belonging to the Earl of Listowel, from whose second title the name is derived; commenced in 1848, and finished in 1855. Along the curve at the bottom of the Terrace (now called Princes Terrace) the boundary of St. Margaret’s parish abuts on that of Kensington. No. 11, Princes Terrace, is the residence of Mr. Bonamy Price.

High Road: a heterogeneous row of houses between the Green and Rutland Gate is so called. They are built without any attempt at uniformity, and are generally of a mean description. Parts of the western end are now called Trevor Terrace, and South Place. The oldest houses in the Hamlet are in High Road: Chatham House (why so called I know not), built in 1688, now a broker’s, was for many years a boarding-school, and originally surrounded by a garden. Three doors beyond is an ancient inn, now known as the “Rose and Crown,” but formerly the “Oliver Cromwell,” and which has been licensed above three hundred years. It is the oldest house in Knightsbridge, was formerly its largest inn, and not improbably the house which sheltered Wyatt, while his unfortunate Kentish followers rested on the adjacent green. A tradition told by all old inhabitants of the locality that Cromwell’s body-guard was once quartered here, is still very prevalent, and an inscription to that effect was till lately painted in front of the house; [104] and on an ornamental piece of plaster-work was formerly emblazoned the great Protector’s coat-of-arms. Although I have not been able to find any mention of this place in connection with the Civil War, or with Cromwell, yet nothing is more certain than that (as I have before noticed) our neighbourhood was frequently the scene of skirmishes during that contest, or more probable than that it should be so, considering it was the main road from the west to the capital. In 1647 the Parliament Army was encamped about here, and Fairfax’s head-quarters were for awhile at Holland House; so also immediately before and after the fight at Brentford. At all events, Mr. Corbould, the distinguished painter, took this old inn as a subject; and “The Old Hostelrie at Knightsbridge,” exhibited in 1849 at St. George’s Gallery, formed a pleasing and animating picture. He laid the scene as early as 1497; and opposite the inn stands a well, surmounted by a figure of St. George, while beyond is the spacious green, the meandering stream, the bridge over it, surmounted by an embattled tower; while still further appears the old hospital and chapel. All this is likely to be summarily condemned as the painter’s fancy, but it nevertheless proves that an interest in the place was not confined to the lower orders alone. The house has of late been much modernised, and in 1853 had a narrow escape from destruction by fire; but enough still remains in its peculiar chimneys, oval-shaped windows, the low rooms, large yard and extensive stabling, with the galleries above and office-like places beneath, to testify to its antiquity and former importance. [106]

The “Rising Sun” was for many years the residence of Major Eyre of the Volunteers. It is built of red brick, and on the coping is the date 16—. There was formerly much carved work about the rooms, but all has disappeared: a plain, old-fashioned staircase still exists. It has not been licensed above thirty years.

Trevor Terrace consists of but ten houses. At the last, Mr. Pocock, the architect, resides.

At the corner of South Place, which contains only three houses, is the celebrated floor-cloth manufactory belonging to Mr. Baber. It was the earliest one ever established, and first erected, in 1754, by Nathan Smith. The first block used for patterns was cut by him, and is still preserved in the factory. A woodcut of it is given in “Dodd’s British Manufactures,” where full particulars of the process of this manufacture are given. In 1794 the building was entirely destroyed by fire, but restored the ensuing year; the whole was rebuilt in 1824, and presents a remarkable appearance from its great height. At the north end is a clock, over which is placed a figure of Time cut in stone.

The adjoining house (No. 2) was formerly called the “Parsonage,” because inhabited by the Rev. J. Gamble, of Trinity Chapel. This gentleman was in 1796 appointed Chaplain of the Forces, and in 1799 Rector of Alphamstone and Bradwell-juxta-Mare, Essex. For many years also he was private chaplain to the Duke of York, who generally attended his ministry at the Chapel. Mr. Gamble was a Fellow of Pembroke College, Cambridge, a very able preacher, and a highly popular man. He died in this house July 27, 1811.

Of late years this unpretending house has gained a world-wide celebrity, having been the residence of Edward Sterling, the “Thunderer of the Times.”

Edward Sterling was born at Waterford on the 27th February, 1773. He entered Trinity College, Dublin, and qualifying himself for the bar, was duly called thereto; when the Irish Rebellion breaking out, in his twenty-fifth year, the barristers resolved to raise a corps of volunteers; and thus a complete change in Sterling’s career was commenced. He fought at Vinegar Hill, and doubtless fought well. He quitted the bar, joined the Cheshire Militia, whence he and his company afterwards volunteered into the line. In 1805 the regiment was disbanded, and he removed to Kaimes Castle, Bute, where he cultivated a farm. Afterwards he went into Wales, and was appointed Adjutant of the Glamorgan Militia; and in 1810 published a pamphlet on Military Reform. It was dedicated to the Duke of Kent, and went through a second edition the following year.

In 1812 he wrote a series of letters to the Times, under the signature of “Vetus,” which were afterwards collected and reprinted. In 1814 he was at Paris, and witnessed the entry of Napoleon after his return from Elba. He made the best of his way to London, which he never quitted as a residence again. He resided at various places in the suburbs, but ultimately settled at Knightsbridge, a more congenial home with its military air; and from this modest nook poured forth the able, torrent-like articles, which gained their unknown author the title of the “Thunderer.”

He died here in the year 1847; his wife, the excellent mother of John Sterling, died here also, on April 16th, 1843. [109]

This house was also a home to John Sterling when in London; and here Carlyle, Maurice, Mill, and other gifted men, visited him. It is now the residence of his brother, Colonel Sterling; and here also came, after his honourable campaign in the Crimea, the brave Sir Colin Campbell, who for his services in India was created Lord Clyde.

Kent House.—H.R.H. the Duke of Kent, about fifty years ago, rented a small house, to which he added till it attained its present size, and was named after him, Kent House. He resided here but a few years. After him, Lord George Seymour inhabited it; and in 1817 the Hon. George Villiers resided here. He was next brother and heir-presumptive to the second Earl of Clarendon, and held several official employments. He married the Hon. Theresa Parker, only daughter of John, first Lord Boringdon, and brother of the Earl of Morley, and died at Kent House, March 21st, 1827, leaving a numerous family, three of whom at least have attained a high reputation, viz., the present Earl of Clarendon, the Hon. C. P. Villiers, M.P. for Wolverhampton, and Lady Theresa Lewis, author of “The Friends and Contemporaries of Lord Chancellor Clarendon.”

At Kent House (divided now) reside Earl Morley, and Sir G. C. Lewis, the late Chancellor of the Exchequer. He married Lady Theresa (noticed above), relict of P. H. Lister, Esq., and is author of many important historical and political works, some of which were written in this house.

Stratheden House.—This was many years the residence of a highly respected family named Marsh. Charles Marsh, Esq., was a magistrate of the county, and William Marsh was senior partner in the house of Marsh, Graham, and Co., with which the forgeries of Fauntleroy were so interwoven. In the misfortunes occasioned by this man Mr. Marsh was innocently, but bitterly, involved. He was a very public spirited man, and greatly respected in the locality.

Stratheden House was afterwards the residence of Francis Bassett, Lord de Dunstanville. He was created baronet for his prompt heading of the Cornish miners, and bringing them to the relief of Plymouth, when the combined fleets of France and Spain cast anchor in the Sound in 1779. He sat in the House of Commons many years, supporting Lord North, and afterwards Pitt, by whom, in 1799, he was raised to the peerage. He supported the Tory interest in the Upper House, and, though not a prominent member, drew down on him the ire of the veteran reformer, Cartwright. He died in 1835.

This mansion is now the town residence of Lord Campbell and Lady Stratheden, after whom it is named. The first volume of the “Lives of the Chancellors” is dated from this house.

High Row extends from Albert Gate Houses to the Barracks; part of it, in an absurd spirit of sycophancy, is now called Albert Terrace. At the west side of the stream, till the improvements were effected, stood a celebrated inn, known as the “Fox and Bull,” traditionally said to have been founded in the time of Elizabeth, and used by her on her visits to Lord Burleigh at Brompton. Its curious sign is said to be the only one of the kind existing. At the “Fox and Bull” for a long while was maintained that Queen Anne style of society, where persons of “parts” and reputation were to be met with in rooms open to all. A Captain Corbet was for a long while its head; a Mr. Shaw, of the War Office, supplied the London Gazette; and W. Harris, of Covent Garden Theatre, his play-bills. [112a] Sir Joshua Reynolds is said to have occasionally been a visitor, as also Sir W. Wynn, the patron of Ryland; and George Morland frequently so. The sign was once painted by Sir Joshua, and hung till 1807, when it was blown down and destroyed in a storm. The house is referred to in the “Tatler,” No. 259.

The “Fox and Bull” was for many years the receiving house of the Royal Humane Society; [112b] and here was brought the poor frame of the first wife of the poet Shelley, who had drowned herself in the Serpentine. She had lodged in Hans Place, a short time before, and was known to the landlord’s daughter, Miss Mary Ann Phillips; hence, her remains were treated “tenderly,” and laid out “with care.” An inquest was held, and a verdict returned, which saved her the revolting burial then awarded to the suicide.

A magistrate used to sit here once a-week: the last was Mr. Bond, of Sloane Street. The present is the third house that has existed under the same sign. The first was undoubtedly of Elizabethan build; most of its rooms were panelled and carved, with ornamented ceilings, &c.; and it was not till 1799 that the immense fire-places and dog-irons were removed for stoves. This house was pulled down about 1836, and the second immediately built on its site; this stood till the alterations at Albert Gate made necessary the removal of the business to its present situation.

In 1809 the landlord, digging to form a grain pit for his cows, discovered six entire male skeletons, supposed to be remains of some who had been slain (perhaps attempting to cross the bridge) in the Civil War.

The Cannon Brewhouse, a large unsightly brick building, occupied the remainder of the site of the Albert Gate houses. Formerly here stood a row of mean dwellings, with open cellars in front, and at the west end a filthy court. They were all removed for the brewhouse, the first stone of which was laid by the late Mr. James Goding, on April 10th, 1804; at the top was a huge wooden cannon. [114] In 1841 the whole was pulled down, and for ten years the ground was unoccupied; in 1851 a temporary building for the Chinese Collection of Mr. Dunn was erected, which in 1852 made way for the large mansion not yet entirely finished.

The house now inhabited by Mr. Murray was, rather more than thirty years since, the residence of Lady Ann Hamilton—the faithful attendant of Caroline of Brunswick. Afterwards Mr. Chalon, and then Mr. Davis, both artists of repute, inhabited it. To Mr. Davis succeeded Mr. White, a naturalist, who had here a large collection of wild beasts and birds. I have heard he was tutor to Van Amburgh.

Mr. Woodburn, when living supposed to be the first judge in matters relating to ancient art, once lived in this house. He died in 1854. The staircases still bear proof of the residence of these artists here.

Captain Corbet, a comrade of St. Vincent, lived at No. 19; Ozias Humphry at 13; Maurice Morgann, opposite Sloane Street, John Taylor, the singer, Paul Bedford (for several years at 18), Mr. Justice Burton, and Mr. McCarthy, the sculptor, at 17—were all residents of High Row. Of these, Humphry will be noticed here. He was born at Honiton in 1742; and early evincing a taste for drawing, was taken from the Grammar School of his native town and sent to London, where he prosecuted his studies most assiduously. Having, after two years’ stay, been compelled to return through the death of his father, he engaged himself to Mr. Collins, a miniature painter at Bath. But in 1763, by the advice of Reynolds, he returned to London, and was brought under public notice through his auspices. For some years he practised with increasing success, and in 1773 set out for Italy with Romney; he returned in September, 1777, and his fame rapidly increased. Miniatures he had chiefly devoted himself to, but now he turned to full-portrait painting, to which Hayley in his poem addressed to Romney refers:—

“Thy graces, Humphry, and thy colours clear, From miniatures’ small circle disappear: May their distinguished merit still prevail, And shine with lustre on the larger scale.”

In 1785 he sailed for India; but the climate compelling him to return before he had attained his object, he, in 1789, again exhibited in London, confirming his former reputation, and next year he was elected R.A. He was employed to paint a series of original portraits of the Sackvilles by the Duke of Dorset; but ere he had completed them his sight failed him, and though various attempts were made to pursue his art, they were unsuccessful, and he was compelled to terminate his professional career.

Humphry was held in high estimation by some of the greatest men of his time; by Reynolds, Hastings, and Sir W. Jones. He is one of the heroes, too, of Boswell’s inimitable biography: Johnson placed under his care his godson, “a son of Mr. Paterson, eminent for his knowledge of books.” As an artist, though he suffered many disadvantages, he ranked high; as a man of moral worth, and kind affections, he was “zealous in good offices, and strenuous in his efforts for rising genius;” and it was to him Dr. Walcot first introduced Opie.

Besides the poetic niche of Hayley, Owen Cambridge mentions him—

“But, Humphry, by whom shall your labours be told, How your colours enliven the young and the old?”

And Cumberland likewise—

“Crown’d with fresh roses, grateful Humphry stands, While beauty grows immortal from his hands.”

Humphry resided several years in Knightsbridge; he died at 13, High Row, March 9th, 1810, and was buried in St. James’ Chapel ground, Hampstead Road. [117]

Out of the High Row runs Mills’ Buildings, so called from a builder of that name who erected them in 1777. At the top, abutting on the Park, is Park Row: at No. 5, Mr. Thomas Cooper for several years resided; and Mr. F. Matthews once lived in this row.

The spot of ground now occupied by the Duke of Wellington’s stables, just erected from designs by Hardwick, was purchased by the Duke from a Mr. Williams, whose freehold property it was. Several houses in Park Place, the “Nag’s Head,” [118] and five other houses, were removed for these stables. Two of them touched on the Park, and were called Williams’ Cottages.

At the west end of High Row is the barrack for the Horse-Guards, an extensive range of brick buildings, built in 1795, and capable of accommodating 600 men and 500 horses. In the centre of the chief building is an oblong parade, around which are the apartments for the men, and the chief stabling for the horses. A mansion for the officers, riding school, &c., stand at the western end.

Hyde Park.—Of the glories of Hyde Park it is almost superfluous to speak; it has been a place of great popular resort since the days of Charles II. It was then visited, not as now, for air and exercise only, but was much used by the citizens for their sports. May 1st, 1654, a great hurling match was played before the Lord Protector. We read that on that day also “great resort came to Hyde Park, many hundreds of rich coaches, and gallants in attire; but most shameful powdered-hair men and painted and spotted women.” Horse and footraces were also held here. “Shall we make a fling to London, and see how the spring appears there in Spring Garden, and in Hyde Park to see the races, horse and foot?”—(“Merry Beggars, or Jovial Crew,” 1641.)

Many and famous have been the reviews here, some of them of deep historical interest. In October, 1803, as before-mentioned, George III. reviewed the different Volunteer Corps raised by the metropolis, when the total number inspected amounted to 27,077 men, of whom our local contingent mustered in force of 124. The enthusiasm created by the appearance of the Guards on their return from the Crimea, and the first distribution of the Victoria Cross by her Majesty in person, are fresh in the public memory.

It is well diversified with wood and water; the Serpentine in its space amply supplying the latter.

“Well may the coyest of the Nine Be proud to sing the Serpentine; For never breeze has swept, nor beam Shed light upon a luckier stream. ’Tis but a brook, whose scanty source, Hard by, just struggles in its course, But scarce has reached, slow trickling thence, The bounds of royal influence, When, such the favour and protection That flows from interest and connection, ’Tis bidden a nobler form to take, And spreads and widens to a lake.” [120a]

Would that its waters were kept sweet and pure; how much more enjoyable would its ride and walks be. Life at the Serpentine in the height of the London season, and after a few days’ sharp frost, presents characteristics that can be seen in the metropolis only.

The Hyde Park river, which no river is, The Serpentine—which is not serpentine, When frozen, every skater claims as his, In right of common, there to entertwine With countless crowds, and glide upon the ice. Lining the banks, the timid and unwilling Stand and look on, while some the fair entice By telling, yonder skaters are quadrilling; And here the skateless hire the “best skates” for a shilling. [120b]

As the Serpentine is at these two seasons productive of so much enjoyment, so it is also at the same time the source of much danger. The skater, the bather, and he who is sick of life’s miseries, too often afford employment for the staff at the Receiving House of the Royal Humane Society.

This edifice was erected on its north bank in 1834. One devoted to the same purpose had previously occupied the same spot. In it are beds, warm baths, tables, and apparatus of all kinds for the restoration of those apparently drowned, in the hope that “perchance a spark may be concealed.” Every effort of science is here exercised on the cases requiring such attentions; the inspection of the public is invited by a notice to that effect affixed outside.

Some little distance north and west of the Receiving House, formerly stood a very ancient edifice, known by the name of “The Cake House;” it was built with timber and plaster, and roofed with flat tiles. It was a place for the sale of refreshments to those who visited the park—hence its name. Pepys says, April 25th, 1669:—“Abroad with my wife in the afternoon to the Park, where very much company, and the weather very pleasant. I carried my wife to the Lodge the first time this year; and there in our coach eat a cheesecake, and drank a tankard of milk.” We may imagine by the following that it was the best known and more visited than any other spot in the Park:—“Comely! nay, ’tis no London female; she’s a thing that never saw cheesecake, tart, or syllabub, at the Lodge in Hyde Park.”—(“The English Monsieur,” by the Hon. James Howard. 4to. 1674.)

Adjacent to this old Lodge was the famous Ring, where the racing and other amusements were carried on; and where the ground was often dyed with the blood of the duellist.

The Ring, or parts of it, can still be distinctly traced on the east of the Ranger’s Grounds. Here fell the Duke of Hamilton, after his duel with the Lord Mohun. Swift, in his journal to Stella, Nov. 15th, 1712, says, “The Duke was helped towards the Cake House, by the Ring, in Hyde Park (where the duel was fought), and died on the grass, before he could reach the house:” a graphic picture, and a sad one, of that fashionable and cruel custom now happily abolished in this country. The journals a century ago were replete with notices of duels fought in the Ring in Hyde Park.

Turn we now from these painful reminiscences. From the Ring, we have in view the costly toy of George IV., the Marble Arch, which, for want of a better destination, was removed to Cumberland Gate from Buckingham Palace; it was designed by Nash, after the arch of Constantine at Rome, and originally was intended to have been surmounted with a chariot and horses, and afterwards with a classic equestrian statue of his Majesty; this was actually executed by Chantry at a cost of 9,000 guineas, but it never reached its intended elevation, and now occupies the pedestal at the north-east corner of Trafalgar Square. Perhaps the most satisfactory work of art in connection with the structure is the very beautiful pair of gates. They are said to be the largest in Europe; are designed in scroll, having six openings, two filled with St. George and the Dragon, two with the royal cypher G.R., and two with lions passant gardant; they cost 3,000 guineas, and are cast in an alloy composed largely of copper.

At present the erection produces a somewhat poor effect, but it is not fair to criticise it, seeing that its original design has not been carried out; were it surmounted with a well-harmonised group, as at first intended, no doubt its appearance would have been much more imposing.

We have in the Park, just within the entrance at the “Corner,” the statue of Achilles, cast from cannon taken from the French, erected in honour of the late Duke of Wellington, by a subscription of his “Countrywomen,” as told by the inscription thus:—

To Arthur, Duke of Wellington, And His Brave Companions in Arms, This Statue of Achilles, Cast from Cannon taken in the Victories of Salamanca, Vittoria, Toulouse and Waterloo, is inscribed By their Countrywomen. Placed on this Spot on the XVIII. day of June, MDCCCXXII. By command of His Majesty George IIII.

We give a passing reference to Rotten Row, where, every evening during the season, may be seen one of the most animating and national spectacles of the metropolis; the fine gravelly road is then filled with equestrians of both sexes mounted on the most beautiful horses, and parading up and down to the admiration of the lounging spectators, whiling away their evening hour on the seats or rails skirting the road. This road has lately been injudiciously widened, being unused some eight months in the year, and the crossing thereby rendered the more dangerous the remaining four.

It is needless to speak here of the Great Exhibition of 1851: these pages are not to tell of its beauties, its results, or the enthusiasm it called into play; suffice it to say that our dear old Park was the scene of its glories. We will hope that its peaceful memories may never be effaced from among the nations.

Hyde Park Corner.—The earliest mention of this name I have met with is in the “Chronicle of Queen Mary,” &c., published by the Camden Society, where Wyatt is described planting his “ordenance over agaynst the parke corner.” The name properly applies to that triangularly-shaped portion of the Park formed by the line from Stanhope Gate to Apsley House. Several interesting incidents have occurred at this spot deserving notice. Here James I., in March, 1606, was met by his whole court and the House of Commons, with the Speaker at their head, to welcome him on his safe return from a hunting excursion near Woking, where it was stated he had been murdered. Here, in 1625, Judge Whitelock sat on the grass which grew in the road, and with his retinue ate the dinner brought with them from the country, afraid to stay longer in London than absolutely necessary, the plague having just carried off thousands of people. After his meal, he galloped to Westminster Hall, adjourned the courts, and quickly retired.

By this road, on August 6th, 1647, Fairfax and his army, all with a laurel branch in their hats, entered from Kensington, accompanied by the House of Commons, to go to Westminster, the matter of the Declaration having been agreed to. From Kensington to the fort here, a guard stood three feet deep; and at Hyde Park Corner they were met by the Lord Mayor and Corporation, come to congratulate them on their arrival. “Lieut. General Cromwell’s regiment of horse” was among them, we are told: this was not his last appearance here. When he returned from his Irish campaign, Fairfax and others met him at Hounslow; and as he approached, Colonel Barkstead’s regiment, drawn up in the highway at the Park Corner, saluted him. In the journal of George Fox, the Quaker, too, is an anecdote of his meeting the Protector here.

After the fight at Brentford, consternation being felt by the Londoners at the near approach of the Royal Army, a chain of forts was thrown up by the citizens, connected with each other by means of earth works and ramparts. Whitelock says it was wonderful to see how the women and children, and vast numbers of people, would come and work at digging and carrying earth to the fortifications. The newspapers of the day teem with curious particulars of the prevailing excitement; one day we read of five thousand felt-makers, another of four thousand porters, then of five thousand shoemakers, and six thousand tailors, all to assist in the pressing work. Nor were the fair sex behindhand; Butler, in his “Hudibras,” alluding to this, says they

“March’d rank and file, with drum and ensign T’ intrench the city for defence in, Raised rampiers with their own soft hands To put the enemy to stands; From ladies down to oyster-wenches, Labour’d like pioneers in trenches; Fall’n to their pickaxes and tools, And helped the men to dig like moles.”

And Nash, in a note on this passage, says:—

“Ladies Middlesex, Foster, Anne Waller, and Mrs. Dunch, were particularly remarkable for their activity.”

One of these forts stood on the brow of the hill at Hyde Park Corner; it was a large one, consisting of four bastions, commanding the ascent and the adjoining fields. Four years afterwards—no further use remaining for them—the House of Commons ordered their removal.

Dr. King relates an interesting anecdote of Charles II. meeting his brother James at this spot, on his return from a hunting excursion, and escorted by a party of the Guards. Charles, who was out for a stroll in the Park, of which he was very fond, was attended by but two of his Court. The Guards recognising the King, halted; and James being acquainted with the cause thereof, stepped from his coach, and saluted his brother, but expressed his surprise to meet him there almost unattended, and thought he exposed himself to some danger. “No kind of danger, James,” replied Charles, “for I am sure no man in England will take away my life to make you king.” [129]

Respecting this interesting anecdote, a tradition tells us that Charles II. was very partial to a walk in Hyde Park, and that at the spot to which he limited himself generally he planted two acorns from the Boscobel Tree. The trees from them grew at the north side of the Serpentine, just where the road turns off by the magazine towards Bayswater. For many years they were fenced in, but one only now remains; the other, much decayed, was removed in 1854.

Hyde Park Corner is now the most magnificent entrance to the metropolis; the entrances to the Parks, Apsley House, and, in the background, the glorious towers of Westminster, form a scene at once imposing and national. Formerly the entrance was very mean; a turnpike blocked the way, and instead of the classic archways, paltry lodges and iron gates led to the parks. Between the lodge and park side was a dead wall, eight feet high, built in the reign of Charles II., but removed in 1828. The toll-house was sold by auction, October 4th, 1825, and cleared away immediately.

The existing entrance to Hyde Park was completed in 1828, from designs of Mr. Decimus Burton; the frieze was designed by Archibald Henning; the ironwork by Bramah. The Triumphal Arch leading to Constitution Hill was built about the same time; its beautiful gates were likewise the work of Bramah.

From Hyde Park Corner the distances to the west are measured; a standard stood near to Apsley House till about 1827.

Kensington Gore was, as before shown, originally called Kyngsgore—firstly, because it belonged to the king; and secondly, from its peculiar shape; gore, an old English word, meaning “a narrow slip of land,” according to the old glossaries. In Kent, the peasantry call a triangularly-shaped piece of ground a gore; and seamstresses use the word in a similar manner to the present day, to express a gusset or piece of stuff let into their work. The early history of the Gore in connection with Kilburn Priory has been noticed; and here its modern story must be told. From Prince Albert’s Road to Noel House is generally now considered as the Gore.

Brompton Park Nursery was established during the reign of Charles II. During the greater part of the seventeenth century the land appears to have belonged to the Percivals, ancestors of the Earl of Egmont. Philip Percival, the friend of Pym and Hollis, was born here in 1603. Brompton Park appears to have extended from what is now called Cromwell Road to the road from Knightsbridge to Kensington. Various properties were cut out of it; but the Percivals were here at least till 1675. Soon after this date about sixty acres appear to have been formed into a nursery garden, the first ever established in this country. It early excited great attention, more particularly about 1690–1700, when it belonged to George London and Henry Wise, the most celebrated gardeners of the time. Evelyn, in his “Diary,” records, on April 24th, 1694, taking “Mr. Waller to see Brompton Park, where he was in admiration at the store of rare plants, and the method he found in that noble nursery, and how well it was cultivated.” Evelyn again alludes to the nursery in his “Sylva,” declaring that the “sight” of it “gave an idea of something greater” than he could express. He speaks highly of the skill and industry here shown, and says the like is not to be met with in this or any other country. Bowack, writing in 1705, affirms that if the plants were valued but at one penny each, they would be worth above £40,000.

Messrs. London and Wise translated from the French “The Complete Gardener,” published in 1701. They were gardeners to William III.; and Kensington Gardens were laid out by them. Wise also superintended the laying-out of Hampton Court; and Evelyn mentions visiting him there. After them, the establishment went through various hands; but when the surrounding fields were built on, the smoke injured the plants; and the railways bringing up fruit and vegetables cheaper than they could be brought to perfection at here, the business gradually diminished, and in 1853 entirely ceased.

Along an ancient wall separating the grounds from those of Cromwell House, a valuable collection of vines was planted, which were cultivated with great success. This wall, the contents of the gardens, and the dwellings therein, were cleared away in 1855. The following list of owners is chiefly taken from Faulkner:—

1681. Lukar and Co. 1714. Smith and Co.

1686. Cooke and Co. 1756. Jefferies and Co.

1689. Wise. 1788. Gray and Co.

1694. London and Wise. — Gray, Adams, and Hogg.

1700. Swinhoe. 1849. Adams and Hogg.

Mr. James Gray, who was chief partner in this concern so long, died at Brompton in 1849. He is mentioned with respect in Faulkner’s “History of Kensington.”

Park House, a plain but spacious mansion, pulled down in 1856, adjoined Princes Gate. It was divided from the road by a brick wall, part of that ancient one just mentioned, for this house stood within Brompton Park: hence its name. Probably a more ancient mansion stood here; but the late one was for many years the seat of the Veres, bankers of the city of London. Afterwards it became the residence of William Evans, Esq., M.P., soon after whose death it was sold.

Eden Lodge was the residence of Lord Auckland, Governor-General of India. Here he retired after his return, and died in 1849.

Mercer Lodge, a small brick residence, was inhabited by Frank Marryat, son of the novelist, and himself an author of one or two books of travel. Mr. Henry Mayhew now resides here.

Immediately adjoining is a row of five houses, called emphatically Kensington Gore. All are faced with white stucco, are very small, and appear as if intended for the lodge of some great mansion never erected. Two of them, which seem to contain but one room, have, however, second storeys at the back, and good gardens, which, with the Park in front, render them very pleasant residences. At one of these houses, in 1816, Mrs. Inchbald inquired after some lodgings which were to let. The landlady was too fine a personage for the writer of “The Simple Story,” and so exacting in her demands that her applicant indignantly wended her way elsewhere. No. 2, now called Hamilton Lodge, was once the occasional residence of John Wilkes. The house was kept by Mrs. Arnold, mother of his second daughter Harriett, who married Mr. Serjeant Rough, afterwards an Indian judge. Wilkes sometimes had high visitors here: Mr. Leigh Hunt quotes a memorandum of his, regarding a dinner here to Counts Woronzow and Nesselrode; and if we are to set down Sir Philip Francis as Junius, here Junius visited, as Mrs. Rough said, frequently; and when a child he once cut off a lock of her hair. Wilkes to the last walked hence to the city, attired in his scarlet and buff suit, with a cocked hat and rosette, and military boots, a dress authorised by his position as colonel of militia. The urn over the doorway Mr. Leigh Hunt imagines to have been placed there by him as an indication of his classic taste, and the supposition is most probably correct. No. 5 was the residence for awhile of Count D’Orsay.

Gore House.—In 1808, Mr. Wilberforce took this mansion (which had previously been the residence of a Government contractor) for his home. He found it, he says, more salubrious than his house at Clapham; and writes further, “We are just one mile from the turnpike at Hyde Park Corner, having about three acres of pleasure-ground around our house, or rather behind it, and several old trees, walnut and mulberry, of thick foliage. I can sit and read under their shade, with as much admiration of the beauties of nature as if I were two hundred miles from the great city.” Here he passed many years of his happy and useful life, his house the resort of those men who awoke our land from the deadly torpor into which years of fearful warfare had plunged it. Here came Clarkson, Zachary Macaulay, Romilly, and others, to commune together on those measures which, to quote Channing, brought about “the most signal expression afforded by our times of the progress of civilisation and a purer Christianity.”

Wilberforce was exceedingly partial to Gore House, and his friends appear to have always found a ready home within it. In 1814, Mr. Henry Thornton, for many years M.P. for Southwark, and one of his most earnest supporters, came here for the benefit of the air and medical aid. He lingered a few weeks, and died here January 17th, 1815, aged fifty-three. Isaac Milner, too, an early friend, who came to London to attend the Board of Longitude, died here after five weeks’ illness, on April 1st, 1820.

The following year Wilberforce quitted Gore House. He retired to Marden, in Surrey, a lovely spot and an interesting locality; but he regretted leaving

“The still retreats that soothed his tranquil breast,”

and often in after years alludes to his old home, its associations, and his “Kensington Gore breakfasts.”

Great is the contrast Gore House next presents: strange are the mutabilities of a metropolitan mansion. After the philanthropist, a few unknown persons held the place ere the next celebrity, one of a totally opposite character, reigned. Lady Blessington—for to her allusion is made—came here in 1836; and the opposition of ideas called forth by such persons seems to have suggested to James Smith his

GORE HOUSE: AN IMPROMPTU.

Mild Wilberforce, by all beloved, Once own’d this hallow’d spot, Whose zealous eloquence improved The fetter’d Negro’s lot; Yet here still slavery attacks When Blessington invites: The chains from which he freed the Blacks, She rivets on the Whites.

Lady Blessington came to Gore House in 1836; and the brilliant circle which thronged around her in Seamore Place was increased with the greater capabilities of the new residence. Haydon, writing February 27th, 1835, says, “Everybody goes to Lady Blessington’s. She has the first news of everything, and everybody seems delighted to tell her. She is the centre of more talent and gaiety than any woman of fashion in London.” To Gore House came novelists and dramatists, artists and actors, statesmen and refugees. Here Louis Napoleon, just escaped from captivity at Ham, first came for the shelter of an English roof; and afterwards—deep lesson too—a few years later she went forth as privately perhaps as her guest had entered, from the palace of which she had been Queen, to seek in the capital of him whom she had harboured, that support she had so freely bestowed on him; the late refugee then having an empire rapidly falling into his hands; her object was not gained, and on this occasion “hope left a wretched one that sought her.” Lady Blessington finally quitted Gore House April 14th, 1849.