Volume 2 — LETTER XXVII.

SIR,Ronciglione, May 30, 1730.

As it appears by all the Letters from Rome that they are on the point of chusing a new Pope, I set out sooner from Venice than I should otherways have done, and came post to this City without stopping much by the Way. I pass'd thro' Padua, where I had the Honour to pay my Respects to the Prince Emanuel of Portugal, who is come to reside there for some time, and I was afterwards at the Comedy, which was indeed, a most wretched Performance, but the Assembly was gay and numerous: Among the rest there were a great number of Students and young Fellows, particularly one that made a very finical Appearance, who had ten or twelve Patches on his Face, a red Coat embroider'd with black Gawse, a Hat, a Shoulder-Knot, Stockings, &c. the whole trimm'd with Gawse. I took him at first for a Mountebank, but I plainly saw that the Whimsicalness of his Dress was the Humour of the Country. What gave me some Amusement was, to see a Hare which Harlequin had taught to play Tricks, to tumble Top over Tail, to leap over a Stick, and to beat a Drum with his two Fore-feet.

From Padua I went to Ferrara a City in the Ecclesiastical State, where the Pope keeps a Legat who is always a Cardinal. It appear'd to me to be a large City with spacious Streets, and some fine Palaces, but it did not seem to be very populous, which is ascrib'd to the bad Air in this Country, otherwise one of the finest in all Italy.

The Road from Ferrara to Bologna is extremely level, and as good and agreeable in Summer as 'tis unpassable in Winter. Bologna is the second City in the Ecclesiastical State, and is a large fine Town. 'Tis in a most charming Situation, all the Country round it being properly a Garden, and one of the most fruitful and fairest Plats in Nature. 'Tis said this City contains near 80000 Inhabitants. The common People are civil and well bred, and none more polite to Foreigners than the Noblemen. There are stately Palaces here, of which I will only mention that of the Marquis Rinucci, because to me it seem'd to be one of the most considerable in the City. 'Tis very magnificent, and of a vast extent. The Ground-Floor contains three large Apartments, the first Story five, and the second as many. The Stair-case of this Palace is very much esteem'd for its Contrivance. In one of the Halls are two large Pictures: The first is the Consecration of the Emperor Charles V. perform'd by the Pope at Bologna: The second represents Frederic IV. King of Denmark giving Audience to the Senate of Bologna: and their complimenting him on his Arrival. In another of those Halls are two other curious large Pictures; the one of Cardinal Rinucci, having Audience of the King of Poland when he was sent to him as Nuncio; and the second shews the same Cardinal receiving the Cap from Lewis XIV. King of France, at whose Court he was Nuncio when he was promoted to the Purple. The Apartments adjoining to these Halls are also adorn'd with excellent Paintings and very richly furnish'd.

The Churches of Bologna are not less magnificent than the finest Churches in Italy. I thought that of St. Paul the most worthy of Remark, which is serv'd by Bernardine Fryars. The Roof is adorn'd with Paintings representing the History of St. Paul. These Pictures which are highly esteem'd are the Performances of Antonio Caccioli and Rolli two Natives of Bologna, and they have both out-done themselves. The Painting of the Dome where St. Paul is represented on his Knees ready to have his Head struck off is admirably fine. The high Altar is of Marble of various Colours, finish'd with a great deal of Art. The Seats of the Monks are of Wallnut-Tree, and over them are several Pictures of the Life of St. Paul drawn by an able Hand, who was Carache's Pupil. The Churches of St. Catherine of Bologna, and St. Michael in Bosco are well worth the Traveller's Observation, on account of the choice Pictures with which they are adorn'd. St. Michael's in Bosco stands upon an Eminence three Miles from Bologna, to which there's an Entrance thro' a cover'd Gallery made like a Piazza. 'Twas a Work erected by the Citizens of Bologna, out of their Devotion to a miraculous Image of the Holy Virgin which is reverenc'd in this Church.

The Legate's Palace is very ancient, but grand and magnificent. 'Tis as strictly guarded during the Vacancy of the Holy See as if the Enemy were at the Gates of the City. All the Avenues to it are hung with Chains: The Swiss Guards are arm'd with Cuirasses: The Guard which consists of fifty Soldiers is barricaded with Pallisades and Chevaux de Frise, and the Palace-Gate is defended by eight Pieces of Cannon.

What remains for me to tell you of Bologna is, that 'tis one of the Cities in Italy where a Foreigner finds most Amusement. The Nobility not only strive to give him Pleasure, but he has fine Paintings to feast his Eye, and here are often excellent Concerts of Music, Operas, and Comedies, charming Walks, and genteel Country-Houses; which I take to be all that can be desir'd in Life.

From Bologna I travell'd in two days to Florence, after having been dragg'd in my Chaise thro' the Apennines, a prodigious Range of Mountains; which is a thing I shall never do again while I live; for I really suffer'd very much in this Road, and if ever you should have a fancy to come this way, I would advise you to carry Provisions or a Cook with you, for there is not one considerable Place in all the Road. Fiorenzola, which is almost half way, is a sorry little Town. From thence to Scarperia the Road is extremely rugged. One descends a high Mountain pav'd like a Stair-case, which to attempt in a Chaise, you are sure of being, if I may so call it, broke upon the Wheel, and therefore I chose to walk down. At Scarperia the Road becomes more passable, and it mends as you come near Florence. In our Way we pass'd thro' a Town call'd Ponte that stands at the Foot of a Hill, where the Great Duke has a Castle which appear'd to me to be very well fortify'd.

One perceives Florence a great way off, and indeed it makes a fine point of View to see so great a City in a beautiful Valley between Hills which rise insensibly, and end at length in high Mountains, inhabited in such a manner that they may be reckon'd the Suburbs of Florence. The River Arno passes thro' both the City and the Valley. Among all the Cities of Italy, Florence may justly be surnamed the Fair, since it has all that can be desir'd in a great and wealthy Town, such as sacred and profane Edifices, Bridges, Monuments, and Fountains; yet 'tis not so large nor populous as Bologna. As I enter'd Florence I perceived over the Gate a Table of white Marble with a Latin Inscription on it, as follows:

Florentia, Adventu Friderici IV. Daniæ et Norvegiæ, Augusti, Felicis, quod eam sua Præsentia magnus Hospes impleverit, Augusta felix, An. S. 1708. Mense Martio.

'Twas the late Great Duke Cosmo who caus'd this to be engrav'd to the Honour of the King of Denmark.

The City of Florence has been so well describ'd that I shall pass very briefly over all that relates to the Buildings. The Square call'd Piazza del Gran Duca or the old Palace, contains Ornaments enough to embellish a great Town. Here you see a spacious Fountain which Cosmo I. caus'd to be built after the Designs of Amminati and Philip Baldinucci, two of the most famous Sculptors at that Time. Not far from this Fountain is the Equestrian Statue of Cosmo I. which is rais'd upon a great Pedestal of white Marble, with this Inscription engrav'd on the chief Front of it:

Cosmo Medici, Magno Etruriæ Duci Primo, Pio, Felici, Invicto, Justo, Clementi, Sacræ Militiæ Pacisque in Etruria Authori, Patri et Principi Optimo, Ferdinandus F. Mag. Dux III. erexit, An.ciɔ iɔ lxxxxiiii.

On the other three Sides of the Pedestal are very fine Bas-Reliefs of Brass. The first represents Cosmo I. recogniz'd for Sovereign by the Senate of Florence; the second the Ceremony of Cosmo's Coronation, and the third the same Cosmo in an antique triumphant Car making his pompous Entry into Sienna, which was submitted to his Government. Ferdinand I. de Medicis when he erected this Statue to the Honour of his Father, employ'd in the Direction of it the famous John Bologna, who has very well answer'd the Opinion that had been conceiv'd of him.

In the Great Duke's Gallery near the Square, I saw the greatest Curiosities, both among the Antients and Moderns. A Busto of Alexander the Great, the famous Statue of Venus, cut by Apollodorus, with those of the Emperors and Empresses of Rome, and the greatest Personages of former Centuries; the best Originals of the greatest Painters; and a thousand uncommon things, such as Diamonds, Rubies, Pearls, Emeralds, Saphirs, Topazes, Amber, Porcellain, Crystal, Porphyry, Coral, Marble, and Granite, the Particulars of which wou'd form a Volume. They are actually engraving on Plates, and several Persons of Quality are contributing to the Expence of this fine Work, which is considerable, and for which excellent Designers are employ'd. This wou'd have been worthy of the Great Duke, and it seems to me that this Prince when he sees his Family extinct, and his Estate pass into the hands of Foreigners, ought at least to eternize the Glory of his Ancestors by publishing an Inventory of the immense Wealth which they have acquired, and transmitted to their Posterity.

Of all the Churches in Italy there are none more magnificent as to the outside than the Dome of Milan, and the Cathedral of Florence, both which are entirely lin'd with Marble of various Colours. A Citizen of Florence, who pretended to know the History of this City perfectly well, assur'd me that its Cathedral was built out of the Impost of five Sous which had been laid upon every Piece of Cloth that was then sold at Florence; but I believe you may without Breach of Charity take this for a Story.

Over against the Cathedral is the magnificent Baptistery, to which there's an Entrance thro' three Gates of Brass, so artfully wrought that Michael Angelo said they were good enough to be the Gates of Paradise.

St. Laurence's Chapel, which is not yet finish'd, is the Admiration of all Connoisseurs, and is design'd to be the Place for the Burial of the Great Dukes, whose Remains are to be deposited in a Mausoleum of wonderful Workmanship, adorn'd with precious Stones. 'Tis 150 years ago that this Chapel has been building, and yet it wants two Thirds of being finish'd. If it were lawful to criticise the Conduct of Princes, I must say it again, that the Great Duke, who sees that his Greatness and his Family must end with him, ought to put the last hand to this Monument of the Magnificence of the Medicis: For can he hope, that if he himself neglects to transmit the Lustre of his Family to Posterity, his Successors will think to do it, who are nothing to him, or at least but very little? But such is the Humour of John Gaston Great Duke of Tuscany; he is so indifferent and unconcern'd about every thing, that he sees Foreigners dispose of his Dominions, and nominate his Successor, and the Courtiers ready to abandon him and to worship the said Successor; and yet the Prospect, how disagreeable soever it may be, does not seem to give him any Uneasiness: And he said some days ago, after he had sign'd his Last Will and Testament, declaring Don Carlos Infante of Spain his Successor, that he had just got a Son and Heir by a Dash of his Pen, which he had not been able to get in thirty four years Marriage.

Thus, Sir, I have given all you will have of me this time touching Florence, where I cou'd stay but a few days, and then made no Acquaintance, having only been taken up in seeing the Curiosities of this City. At my Return from Rome I propose to come hither again, and make some stay in order to get a little Knowledge of the Court; and then you shall be inform'd of every Remark that I make.

From Florence I went and din'd at Castilloncello, and lay at Sienna a City in the Duchy of Tuscany, to which Cosmo I. de Medicis made it subject, not without great Resistance from the Siennois. The City which is both an Archbishoprick and an University, is very pleasantly situate, and enjoys a very good Air. 'Tis said that Italian is spoke here with more Purity than in any other Town in Italy. It seem'd to me to want Inhabitants, for I went thro' several Streets and did not meet a Soul. 'Tis said that a great many of the Nobility are settled in Sienna, and that Strangers are sure to meet with a civil Reception here, but as I staid no more than one day, I had only a cursory View of the Town. The Cathedral appear'd to me to be a great and noble Building lin'd with Marble. The Great Duke's Palace is ancient, but commodious. It has a Tower which is look'd upon as a singular piece of Architecture. The Great Princess[165] Violante of Bavaria is Governess of Sienna. She liv'd formerly in this City, and was mightily belov'd in it; but she has resided for some time at Florence. The Square which is before the Palace is oval, and hollow in the Middle, so that it may be laid under-water like the Square Navona at Rome.

From Sienna to Viterbo the Road is extremely bad, I passed the Mountain of Radifocani, situate in one of the vilest Countries in all Italy. At the top of the Mountain there's a Castle, where a Garison of fifteen Men is kept, with a Commanding Officer, whom I found at the House of Entertainment where I alighted. He had been a Lieutenant in France in the Royal Italian Regiment, and spoke very good French. He told me that the Inhabitants under his Government were as bad as the Country, of which some Moments after, I saw a Proof. A Mule-driver having a Quarrel with the Drawer, the latter stabb'd him with a Knife in the Rim of the Belly, with as much Sedateness as if he had been doing a good Action; and the Commandant never caus'd the Assassin to be apprehended: for which when I express'd my Surprize to him, he said he had nothing to do out of his Place; and that besides he did not dare to cause the Assassin to be apprehended, because he had three Brothers as wicked as himself, who wou'd not fail to take a Revenge if he was punish'd. And then, said he, I shou'd have enough to do if I were to cause all to be apprehended who give Wounds with Knives.

Aquapendente is a sorry little Town, and yet a Metropolis. Bolsena is no better, and Montefiascone tho' a Bishoprick, wou'd not be worth mentioning, were it not for its Vineyards which produce excellent Muscadine Wine.

Viterbo, three Leagues from Montefiascone, seem'd to me to be a pretty Town. 'Tis adorn'd with three fine Fountains, and pav'd with great Flint Stones which are four foot long and two foot broad. This City has some fine Houses in it. 'Tis the See of a Bishop, and its Cathedral is a Structure which does not want for Grandeur. In this Church the Archbishop and Elector of Cologn was consecrated by Pope Benedict XIII. who came hither on purpose to save the Elector all manner of dispute about Precedency with the Cardinals; who were in their turn so disgruntled with the Pope, that none of them accompany'd him in this Journey.

Monteroso is a pretty Town, but Ronciglione outdoes it; and indeed in all the Ecclesiastical State there is not a pleasanter. It drives a great Trade in Snuff. I came hither yesterday at Noon, and don't think of going away 'till this Evening, my Chaise being broke. I hope however to lie this Night at Rome, from whence I purpose to send you many good Stories forthwith. You will do me a Pleasure to let me hear from you; and to believe me in Italy, as well as elsewhere, yours, &c.

End of Volume I.