← Table of contents
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)

Volume 3 — INDEX

W. G. (William George) Waters translation

Abano, ii. 21, 23

Agriculture, ii. 186, 187, 191, 192; iii. 33, 84, 85

Aigues Caudes (Eaux Chaudes), i. 78; ii. 181; iii. 45

Ammianus Marcellinus, i. 64n

Amyot, J., ii. 126n

Ancona, iii. 1-4

Andelot, Sieur, i. 47, 48

Angelo, Mich., i. 11; ii. 49

Antiquities, classic, i. 91, 115; ii. 71, 98, 100, 128-131, 166, 185; iii. 7, 84, 118, 119

Appenino (statue), ii. 44, 47

Arabian physician, ii. 122

Arezzo, iii. 22, 123n

Ariosto, ii. 34; iii. 110

Artillery, ii. 164

Augsburg, i. 9, 129-150;

religious factions, i. 149

Austria, i. 74, 97, 123;

Don John of, ii. 127;

relations with Lucca, iii. 33

Baden, baths of, i. 77-91;

cost of living at, 89

Bagnaja, iii. 162, 165

Banieres (Bagnères de Bigorre), i. 55; ii. 39; iii. 33, 47, 79

Baptism, Lutheran, i. 132, 133

Barbotan, i. 78; ii. 28; iii. 45, 79

Bartholomew, S., i. 11; ii. 127n

Basle, i. 62-67;

religious discords, 65;

dissoluteness of women, 66

Baths at Rome, ii. 133, 134

Beaumont-sur-Oise, i. 25, 26

Beds, i. 103, 107, 130, 168, 188; ii. 31, 32; iii. 51

Bembo, P., ii. 10

Bernabo, spring of, iii. 56, 62, 88, 102

Bird-catching, iii. 136

Boccaccio, iii. 152;

his will, 107

Boetie, E. de la, iii. 53

Bologna, ii. 37-39;

factions at, 39; iii. 113

Bolsena, ii. 68

Books, confiscated, ii. 77;

restored, ii. 139;

censured, ii. 175, 176

Borro, Giov., iii. 123, 124, 128

Botzen, i. 177-179

Bracciolini, Poggio, i. 81

Brenner, pass of, i. 166-172

Brigandage, ii. 40, 187, 188; iii. 180

Brixen, i. 172

Bulicame, iii. 161

Bulletin of health, ii. 1, 33, 36, 73

Buoncompagno, Giac., ii. 84, 165;

Filippo, ii. 141n

Calvin, Calvinism, i. 65, 88, 106; iii. 87

Canals, ii. 28, 29

Capello, Bianca, ii. 52, 53n; iii. 28n

Capperonier, M., i. 22

Caprarola, i. 10; iii. 164

Caselis, M. de, i. 20, 41, 191; ii. 20

Casimir, Duke, i. 61

Catena, i. 21; ii. 89-91

Catholicism, latent, amongst the reformed, i. 85

Catiline, iii. 30

Cenis, Mont, iii. 195

Certaldo, iii. 152

Certosa, i. 11; iii. 190

Chaffousine (Fusina), ii. 13, 14, 18, 35

Chalons, i. 34

Charles V., i. 48, 97, 143, 167, 185

Chaumont-en-Bassigni, i. 36

Chimera, figure of, ii. 58; iii. 102

Circumcision, rite of, ii. 102-105

Clement VII. (Pope), i. 185

Clesio, Card., i. 182-186

Coaches of Roman nobility, ii. 146

Colleges in Rome, ii. 83

Colombin, S., ii. 8

Confraternities, ii. 151, 156

Cornacchini, T., iii. 127

Corsena, spring of, iii. 43-45

Coryat, T., i. 8, 18; ii. 10n

Courtenay, Earl of Devon, ii. 11n

Courtesans, i. 18; ii. 17, 18, 115, 146, 148, 160; iii. 105, 108

Crayfish, i. 71, 131, 187

D’Abein, M., ii. 79, 120, 123; iii. 168

Dancing, i. 139, 140;

school of, at Padua, ii. 10;

permitted by Lutherans, i. 121

Dante, iii. 109n, 161n

D’Arc, Jeanne, i. 41

D’Este, Alfonso, Duke of Ferrara, ii. 33, 34; iii. 15

D’Este, Card., ii. 25, 167n, 194

D’Estissac, M., i. 20, 25, 30, 58, 62, 75, 94, 191; ii. 33, 65, 80; iii. 172

Divizia, Lucchese poet, iii. 72, 73

Donato, iii. 54, 88

Dowries to girls at Rome, ii. 161-162

Draining marshes, ii. 30, 31; iii. 123, 176

Duel, M. Mattecoulon’s, i. 20; iii. 172n

Elena, S., baths of, ii. 26-28

Empire, politics of, i. 85, 97;

unpopularity of the Emperor, i. 85

Empoli, iii. 109

Estienne, H., ii. 125

Etruscan writing, iii. 113

Excommunication, sentence of, ii. 148-150

Exorcism, ii. 111-113

Factions, French and Spanish, at Bologna, ii. 39;

at Lucca, iii. 163

Fano, iii. 6, 8

Farnese, Alessandro (Cardinal), ii. 178n; iii. 164

Faron, S., i. 28

Fencing, i. 134; ii. 10; iii. 103

Ferdinand of Tirol, i. 155, 159, 161, 162;

his sons, i. 163, 166; iii. 186, 187

Ferdinand I. (Emperor), i. 164, 167

Ferier, A. de, ii. 14

Ferrara, ii. 33-36

Ferries, i. 76; ii. 31, 32

Flaminian Way, ii. 181; iii. 10, 12

Flax, iii. 160

Fleur-de-lys, ii. 52; iii. 28, 117, 189

Florence, ii. 47-59; iii. 93-108;

want of culture in, ii. 59

Foix, M. de, ii. 141

Foligno, ii. 189

Fornovo, i. 8; iii. 183

Forum Romanum, ii. 98

Fossombrone, iii. 9

French popular in Tuscany, ii. 66

Fuggers, the, i. 23, 143, 186

Furlo, pass of, iii. 11, 12

Garda, lake of, i. 190-193

Gardens, at Augsburg, i. 140-143;

at Rome, ii. 159-160;

Petraja, ii. 54-55;

see also “Tivoli” and “Pratolino” Gate, mechanical, at Augsburg, i. 164-166

Germain, Mary, i. 21, 37-39

Germany, Montaigne’s liking of, i. 6, 7, 179, 188; ii. 9; iii. 65

Grammont, M. de, i. 26n

Greece, Montaigne’s project to visit, i. 188

Gregory XIII. (Pope), i. 10; ii. 67, 80-85, 88, 114, 138, 161, 162, 185

Grynæus, i. 64

Guillot’s at Amiens, iii. 23

Hadrian’s villa, ii. 171n, 173;

his palace at Pisa, iii. 113

Hala, i. 160, 165;

salt works, 161

Hannibal, iii. 25

Hasdrubal, iii. 9, 17

Hautoy, M. de, i. 191; ii. 65, 80

Helfenstein, Count of, i. 128

Henry II. of France, i. 10; iii. 165

Henry III. of France, ii. 13, 17n, 79n

Henry VIII. of England, ii. 119, 120

Heresy suspected in Montaigne’s writings, ii. 139, 140, 175, 176

Hildegarde, S., i. 119

Hosius, Card., ii. 177

Hottoman, F., i. 7, 64, 179

Huguenots, i. 119; ii. 97, 126, 149

Inns, charges at, i. 111;

deficiencies in, ii. 9, 49, 50; iii. 101, 111, 131, 190, 194

Innkeepers, knavery of, ii. 40, 41; iii. 182

Innsbruck, i. 158-166

Italian ladies wanting in beauty, ii. 49, 107; iii. 8

Janiculum, ii. 94

Janus, temple of, ii. 99n

Jesuates, ii. 3, 7, 35

Jesuits, i. 12, 127, 134, 149, 153, 165; ii. 196

Jews, ii. 5;

races in the Corso, ii. 106;

doctor consulted by Montaigne, iii. 174

Journal, Montaigne’s, discovery of, i. 2;

written in Italian, iii. 56;

again in French, iii. 195

Kempten, i. 115-123

Kitchens, i. 72, 73

Königsfelden, abbey of, i. 75, 76

La Fère, i. 25, 26n, 61; iii. 205

Le More’s, at Paris, iii. 23

Leonore, daughter of Montaigne, i. 173; iii. 198

Leopold of Austria, i. 76n

Lepers in Germany, i. 102

Lindau, i. 103-112

Livy, ii. 11, 21n; iii. 25

Lodgings, i. 89; iii. 39, 51, 101, 111;

badness of, at Florence, ii. 49, 50

Loreto, i. 10, 12, 13; ii. 196-209; iii. 147

Lovanella, its famous inn, iii. 23

Lucca, iii. 33-35, 132-138, 148-150;

military service in, iii. 46, 50, 63;

judicial system, iii. 74, 147

Lucca, baths of, iii. 37-92, 138-148;

peasants sceptical of the virtue of the waters, iii. 147;

plethora of apothecaries, iii. 39, 147

Lutherans, i. 97, 105, 113, 119, 131, 132

Lyons, iii. 200

Macerata, ii. 194

Magnus, S., i. 125

Maldonat, M., i. 32-34, 81; ii. 158

Mangot, M., ii. 124

Marriages, mixed, i. 136;

ceremony at the house of the Fuggers, i. 139

Marteau, M., i. 13; ii. 205

Massa, iii. 177

Mattecoulon, M., i. 20, 25, 191; ii. 65, 80; iii. 172

Maximilian I. (Emperor), i. 158;

his tomb, i. 163; ii. 213

Mayoralty of Bordeaux, i. 19; iii. 146, 167

Meaux, i. 25-31

Medici, Cath. dei, i. 10, 32, 64; ii. 141n; iii. 165

Medici, Cosimo I. (Grand Duke), i. 48, 51; iii. 96, 114, 123, 179n

Medici, Ferd. dei (Card.), ii. 53, 78, 88, 149; iii. 102, 178n

Medici, Francesco dei (Grand Duke), ii. 48, 52, 63; iii. 21, 30, 95, 99, 101, 110, 173

Medici, Lorenzino dei, iii. 114

Medici, Piero dei, iii. 120

Milan, iii. 191, 192

Miracles, i. 147, 156;

Montaigne’s acceptance of, i. 13; ii. 205

Mirandola, Pico della, iii. 16

Montaigne, begins his journal, i. 25;

his liking for Germany, i. 7, 179, 188; ii. 9, 49; iii. 65;

his praise of stoves, i. 86, 94, 187;

honour done to him in Augsburg, i. 9, 136, 137;

his courage, i. 19; iii. 140;

conformity to local custom, i. 84, 138; ii. 70;

appreciation of good citizens, i. 183;

his habit of diet, i. 103;

partiality for Jesuits, i. 12; ii. 145, 146;

illnesses, i. 16, 54, 170; ii. 38, 100, 105, 134; iii. 25, 43, 131, 139, 141, 144;

incongruities of style, i. 23;

censure of irreligion, ii. 2;

recognition of the power of the Church, i. 15, 16;

acceptance of miracles, i. 13; ii. 205;

mayoralty of Bordeaux, i. 19; iii. 146, 167;

travel requisites forgotten, i. 109;

offended by the Archduke of Tirol, i. 162;

his philosophy of travel, i. 189, 190; iii. 134;

remarks on the site of Rome, i. 15; ii. 75, 95-100; iii. 170;

on its civil liberty, ii. 76;

on scenery, i. 14, 157, 158; ii. 191, 192; iii. 38;

fear of sea-sickness, ii. 19n;

pleasure of travel, i. 172-175;

patience under pain, i. 17; ii. 186;

fear of dew, i. 187; ii. 71;

wariness in choosing an inn, ii. 42;

resolves to revisit Venice, ii. 23;

leaves books at Padua, ii. 23;

dines with the Grand Duke of Florence, ii. 53;

with the Cardinal de Sens, ii. 85-88;

with the French Ambassador, ii. 123-126;

adverse criticism of Florence, ii. 54, 59;

does justice to it, iii. 105;

indifference to art, i. 10, 11;

excess of Frenchmen in Padua, ii. 10;

in Rome, ii. 74;

his books seized, ii. 77;

restored, ii. 139;

censured, ii. 175, 176;

his audience with the Pope, ii. 80-82;

discontent with guides, i. 90, 101; ii. 95;

attends a Jewish service, ii. 100, 101;

ceremony of circumcision, ii. 102-105;

public executions, ii. 111-113;

his remarks on Roman ladies, ii. 107, 108;

begins to write the journal himself, ii. 110;

comparison of Rome and Paris, ii. 133;

on Roman preaching, ii. 143-145;

on the salubrity of the climate, ii. 159;

on his superficial knowledge of the place, ii. 161;

grant to him of Roman citizenship, ii. 164-166;

visits the Vatican library, ii. 117, 122;

fixes an ex voto at Loreto, ii. 198;

his remarks on the baths of Lucca, iii. 47, 54, 55, 78, 81, 147;

on the judicial system of the state, iii. 74;

on military service, iii. 50, 63, 132-138;

on medicine, iii. 77, 78, 147;

on democratic bearing, iii. 91;

gives a ball, iii. 67-74;

adopts party emblems, iii. 89;

sees an operation at Basle, i. 66, 67;

sees Boccaccio’s will, iii. 107;

a display of equitation, iii. 167;

a card factory, iii. 201;

returns to Rome, iii. 166;

leaves it finally, iii. 172;

impressions of Milan, iii. 191;

leaves his arms at Plombières, i. 55;

at Augsburg, i. 150;

in Lucca, iii. 144;

musical taste of the peasantry, iii. 110;

is begged to reside in Rome, ii. 176;

his purchases in Pisa, iii. 122;

leaves Milan, iii. 192;

crosses Mont Cenis, iii. 195;

leaves Lyons, iii. 200;

returns to Montaigne, iii. 205

Montefeltro, Federigo di, iii. 14, 15n, 16n;

Guidobaldo di, iii. 15n

Montirandet, i. 36;

strange case of a woman there, i. 36, 37

Moryson, Fynes, i. 8; ii. 15n, 17n; iii. 182n, 189n

Moscovite Ambassador at Rome, ii. 115, 117, 137

Mulhouse, i. 60;

the host at the “Grapes,” 61

Munich, i. 151, 153

Munster, Seb., i. 64, 110, 135n

Muret, Marc. Ant., ii. 123

Narni, ii. 183

Necessaries of travel, i. 109

Neufchasteau, i. 42, 43, 45

Ogier the Dane, i. 28, 29

Operation at Basle, i. 66, 67

Ostia, ii. 127, 130;

saltworks, 131

Padua, i. 11;

Frenchmen at, 5; ii. 9-13;

cost of living at, ii. 20

Palladio, ii. 7n

Paré, A., i. 21, 37n, 38, 39

Parma, iii. 183;

Duke of, iii. 185, 186

Paul III. (Pope), i. 11, 116; iii. 10n, 161, 165, 171

Pavia, iii. 187-190;

battle of, iii. 190

Peter’s, S., i. 11; ii. 78, 135, 149, 152, 155

Peter and Paul, SS., ii. 156, 157

Petraja (Castello), ii. 54-58; iii. 26

Petrarch, iii. 24

Petrino, ii. 188

Philosophy of Travel, i. 189-191

Piacenza, iii. 184-187

Piccolomini, S., iii. 103

Pietramala, ii. 43

Pilgrimage churches at Rome, ii. 138, 141

Pinitesi, L., iii. 90, 133, 137

Pisa, iii. 110-128;

baths of, 129, 131;

earth in Campo Santo, i. 14; iii. 116;

insalubrity of, iii. 123

Pistoia, iii. 29-31

Plater, F., i. 62, 64

Plommieres (Plombières), i. 45-55, 170, 187; iii. 79

Plutarch, ii. 118, 123-126

Poggio a Cajano, iii. 28, 29

Portuguese homage at Rome, ii. 135;

strange sect of fanatics, ii. 136

Posting, ii. 69, 70; iii. 2, 93

Poussay, i. 43, 56

Praie (Praglia), ii. 22

Prato, iii. 27, 28

Pratolino, i. 9; ii. 43, 45, 64, 170, 172; iii. 106

Provisions, table, i. 73, 74, 107, 109;

in Rome, ii. 134, 135;

Lucca, iii. 39-41

Prunis, M., i. 2

Quails, iii. 3

Quarrel with guide, i. 100, 101;

with vetturino, ii. 193; iii. 155;

of priests and friars at Pisa, iii. 126

Querlon, M., i. 22, 42n, 76n, 80n, 164n; ii. 205n

Races, ii. 106; iii. 96-98, 102

Rats, i. 138

Religious toleration, i. 16

Remiremont, i. 57;

strange tenure of land, ib.;

nuns of, i. 58

Renegade, story of, iii. 48-50

Ricchieri, L., ii. 32

Riva, i. 191, 192

Roads, safety of, in Tirol, i. 169;

state of, in Lombardy, ii. 37;

in the mountains, ii. 41, 42, 68;

improved by Gregory XIII., ii. 183

Rohan, Duke of, i. 179n

Roland, i. 29n

Rome, Montaigne’s impressions of, i. 15;

his stay there, ii. 72-180; iii. 166, 172;

remarks on site of, ii. 75;

on public security, ii. 76;

want of clocks, ii. 91;

cold of winter, ii. 93;

buildings, ii. 97;

comparison with Paris, ii. 133;

street life, ii. 146;

pleasures of sojourn, ii. 161, 164

Ronciglione, ii. 69

Rovere, i. 187-193

Rovigo, ii. 31-33

Running at the ring, ii. 110

Rynach, Claude de, i. 50

Sainte Beuve, i. 2

Santa Rotonda (Pantheon), ii. 156; iii. 114

Sarrezana (Sarzana), iii. 178, 179

Savoy, Duke of, i. 82, 94; iii. 192

Scenery, Montaigne’s delight in, i. 14, 157, 158; ii. 191-193

Schaffhausen, i. 91-96

Sculpture, i. 11;

at Florence, ii. 48;

at Tivoli, ii. 170-171

Sea sickness, ii. 19n

Secretary, Montaigne’s, i. 7, 22;

takes on luggage by water to Augsburg, i. 125;

is left at Rovere, i. 192;

takes on luggage to Verona, i. 193;

goes on in advance from Battaglia, ii. 26;

makes a bargain for rooms at Florence, ii. 50;

finishes his work as amanuensis, ii. 110

Sens, Cardinal of, ii. 85-88; iii. 170

Shooting grounds, i. 92, 134

Sibyl, temple of, ii. 174

Siena, ii. 60-65; iii. 99, 152, 174

Silvester II. (Pope), ii. 142-144

Sinigaglia, iii. 5-7

Sirleto, Card., ii. 121

Sistine Chapel, ii. 113

Snakes, iii. 59, 60

Spanish homage for Portugal, ii. 137

Spoleto, ii. 184, 185

Standards, captured French, at Florence, i. 8; ii. 48

Straw plaiting, iii. 26, 30

Strozzi, P., i. 31; ii. 48; iii. 165;

family, i. 51; iii. 97, 98

Switzerland, i. 60-96;

politics of, i. 82;

customs, i. 83-85

Table fare, i. 107, 109, 148; ii. 49, 110, 134, 135;

service, i. 70-73, 84, 85, 102, 126, 131, 148; ii. 49; iii. 31

Tacitus, i. 80

Tasso, i. 21; ii. 36, 37n

Terelle, J., i. 30

Terni, ii. 184

Theatre, ii. 38

Theology, i. 65, 88, 106, 113, 114

Tillianus, T., i. 121

Tirol, i. 155-192;

riches of, i. 177

Tivoli, i. 9; ii. 166-174; iii. 106, 163

Travel, cost of, i. 110-112, 152; ii. 208; iii. 2, 93;

pleasure of, i. 17, 172-175, 188-190

Tree cultivation, i. 93

Trent, i. 113, 180, 186

Treves, Gilles de, i. 40

Trevi, ii. 189

Turin, iii. 193, 194

Urbino, iii. 12-17;

Duke of, iii. 5, 8, 9, 19, 21

Vasari, i. 10; ii. 52n

Vatican, ii. 94;

library, ii. 117-122

Vaucouleur, i. 41

Velabrum, ii. 99

Venice, ii. 14-18;

suspicious policy of, ii. 15;

revenues, ib.;

cost of living, ii. 18;

explanation of his short stay there, ii. 23;

comparison with Rome, ii. 164

Verona, i. 193-195; ii. 1-6;

arena, ii. 4

Veronica Franca, ii. 16-17

Veronica, S., ii. 150, 151

Vicenza, ii. 7-9

Virgil, ii. 121, 189

Viterbo, ii. 68; iii. 157-162, 173

Vitri le François, i. 35-39

Volto Santo, iii. 149

Water, fraudulent sale of at Lucca, iii. 74, 75;

music, ii. 168, 169;

works, i. 9, 98, 127, 135, 141, 57, 167-173; iii. 106

Well, curious, i. 148

Welser, Philippina, i. 163n; iii. 187n

Whooping cough, i. 26n

Wine, i. 149, 178; ii. 8, 9; iii. 83, 105, 107;

gifts of, i. 57, 62, 94; iii. 90

Wood work, iii. 121, 122

Zwingli, i. 88, 106, 113, 122

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