INDEX
Reading edition
Note.—The numbers in heavy type refer to the pages on which figures will be found.
A B C D E F
G H I J K L
M N O P Q R
S T U V W Y
Abbesses, costume of, 198
Abergavenny, the Marquis of, wears badges, 91
Academical dress, 208
— hoods, 210
Achievements, styles of, 87
Acrobat, dress of, 286
— tights of, 286
— trunk hose of, 286
Admiral, uniform of, worn by coxswains at Eton on the Fourth of June, 171
Africa, the West Coast of, little clothing worn on, 8
Aggries, 113
Agilbert, Bishop of Paris, ring of, 114
Aiglets, 100
Aiguillettes, 101, 101
— Mr. Caton Woodville on, 240
— of aides-de-camp, 240
— — footmen, 141, 141, 240
— — Household Cavalry, 240
— — a Knight of the Bath, 231
— — — Knight of St. Michael and St. George, 231
Ailette, 84
Albe, 198, 199
— of James II, 221
— originally a secular garment, 189
— replaced by surplice, 185
Alhambra, 293
Almshouses, costumes of, 170
Almuce, 198, 199
— forerunner of the tippet, 212
Ambassadors, cockade of Danish, 160
— — — English, 160
— — — Foreign, 160
— — — French, 160
American, dress of the, 318
Amethyst, supposed powers of the, 124
Amice, 200, 221
Amulet, arrow-head, 296
Amulets buried with the head of ancient Egyptians, 122
— crescent-shaped, 293
— heart-shaped, 295, 296
— worn by Egyptian children, 123
Andaman Islanders, painting the body among, 276
André, Messrs., & Co., on cockades, 153
Anglo-Saxon, bandaged stocking of, 67, 67
Animal actors, clothes of, 301
Animals, colour of, in connection with ceremonials, 303
— curious variations of, produced under domestication, 302
— spotted when young, 94
— mutilation of, 302
Anklets, 9
Anne, apron of Queen, 150
— Consort of James I, glove of, 98, 99
Antiquities, Museum of, Copenhagen, 178
Apparel of chasuble called an orphrey, 196
— on albe, possibly remains of clavi, 193
Appendix, vermiform, 3
Apron, 149
— of barge-woman, milk-woman, and hospital nurse, 150
— — bishop, a vestige of the cassock, 200
— — housemaid, 149
— — Judy, 263, 263
— — masons, 232
— — nuns, 202
— — Queen Anne, 150
Aprons, tiger skin, of Leicestershire Regiment, 249
Arab women, 122
— — ideas of modesty, 207
Arabs use folds of robes as pockets, 110
Archers, Scottish, coats of, 226
Aria, Mrs., on the ancestress of the straight-fronted specialité corset, 337
— — on the unwritten laws that rule the wearing of a mask, 281
Armlets conferred on soldiers, 114
— need for cooling, in some climates, 114
Armorial bearings on ladies’ dresses, 84, 85
Armour, 83
— a development of dress, 12
— of chargers, 292
Arms, coat of, 83
— of England, 86
— — schools and colleges, 90
— — Thomas à Becket, 198
Arran murder case, 178
Arrow-head amulets, 296
Arrow-heads, flint, as pendants, 123
Arts, gown of master of, 210
— hood of bachelor of, 212
Atella, celebrated for Italian farces, 254
Athletic clubs, parti-coloured dress of, 313
Aurelian, distribution of oraria by, 192
Austria, Emperor of, 244
Austrian, dress of the, 318
Axe for killing wounded horses, 242
Ayahs, nose-rings of, 111
Babylon, finger-rings in, 114
Baby’s glove without fingers, 94, 95
Bachelor of Arts, hood of, 212
Badge and crest, difference between, 90
— broad arrow, 91
— of Black Prince, 88
— — Edward III, 91
— — the porters of the Inner Temple, 91
Badges, hereditary, 90
— signs derived from royal, 91
— regimental, 243, 245
— of Gloucestershire regiment, 245
— — private firemen, 91
Badges of the Yeomen of the Guard, 224, 224
— — Watermen, 91
— worn by the Marquis of Abergavenny, 91
Bag-wig, vestige of the, 133, 134, 143, 143, 228, 229
Baildon, Mr. Paley, on new garments put over old, 148
— — — — the coif, 216
Baldric, 106
— modern use of, 106
— ornamented with bells, 108, 108
Ballrooms, bare necks in, 14
Band, black on arm as mourning, 182
— chin, 202, 203
— hat, 52
Bandaged stockings of Anglo-Saxons, 67
Bandages, leg, 66, 66, 67
Bandbox, 46, 47
Bandoleer, on baldric, 108
Bands, 44, 45
— of barristers, 44
— — blue-coat boys, 44, 45
— — choristers at Jesus College, Cambridge, 45, 45
— — Jan Steen, 46, 46
— — John Pym, 46, 46
— — Milton, 46
— — small boys, 47, 47
— — the legal profession, 219
— — Winchester scholars, 169
— on a lady’s nightgown, 288, 289
— worn with a black Geneva gown, 44, 185
Bantams, booted, 303
— frizzled, 303
Baptism, vestments used at, 164
Barbarians wore trousers, 77, 78
Barge women, apron of, 150; Plate VIII facing page 150
— — costume of, 110
— — sun-bonnet of, 61; Plate VIII facing page 150
Barme-cloth (apron), 150
Barons of the Exchequer, robes of, 218
Barristers’ bands, 44
— gown, 218, 219
— wigs, 132
Basquine, 325
Baton of drum-major, 241
— — Field-Marshal, 223
Beadle, dress of, 147, 264
— in Punch and Judy, 147, 262, 264
Beads as currencies, 113
— blue popo, worth their weight in gold, 113
— early used in England, 112
— from Egypt, 113
— of the prehistoric Egyptians, 112
— still fashionable, 112
Beagle, H.M.S., voyage of, 11
Beard of Edward II, 130
— — — III, 129
Beards, closely shaved by Normans, 129
— — — in Edward IV’s time, 130
— cut by Romans, 129
— parted or trimmed by Saxons, 129
Bedford, Duchess of, riding habit of, 251
Bedgown, woman executed in a, 290
Beefeaters, cap of, 168
Bells as ornaments, derived from flowers, 314
Belt of groom, 140
— — — origin of, 139
Belts, Dr. Cantlie on the use of, 356
— worn by navvies, 329
Bernard, on blowing the nose on the chasuble, 195
Bhurtpore, battle of, 244
Bib, 150
— of infant, 167
Bibliography, 363-7
Bigg, Mr. Heather, on the erect position of man, 330, 331
— — — — — rapid loss of beauty in native girls, 328
— — — — — use of stays, 326, 327
Billet, sign of the Crooked, 146
Binder of infant, 163
Biretta, evolution of, 213
Bishop, hat of, 214, 214
— method of buttoning trousers, 252
— rochet, chimere, and lawn sleeves of, 199
Black as mourning, 181
Bloomer, Mrs., 81, 356
— — dress of, 361
Bloomers, Dr. Bernard O’Connor on, 361
Blouse, blue, of the butcher, 307, 320
Blue blouse of butcher, 307, 320
— coat boys, 167
— — — bands of, 44, 45
— favours, 307
Boadicea, dress of, 312
Boar, wild, spotted when young, 94
Bohemians, the King of the, wore no ostrich feathers, 91
Body, clothes used to alter the shape of, 337
Boiler cleaners, combination garments of, 320
Bone inserted into prehistoric skulls, 336
— pin, 105
Boots, jack, 235
— of bridegrooms removed by brides in Russia, 177
— ornamentation of modern, 62, 63
— top, 65, 65
— — upper parts now immovable, 66, 66
Borough Councillors, robes of, 138
Bouquets carried by coxswains on the Fourth of June at Eton, 171
Bows inside ladies’ hats, 57, 58
— of silk ribbon inside hat, 54, 55
Boy catching an object in his lap, 341
Boys, blue-coat, 167
— colour preferences of, 307
— dressed as soldiers, 163
— petticoats of, 165
Brace in which the straps are not united, 356
Bracelets, 9
— need to be cooled in some climates, 114
Brandenburg, Albrect von, with two palls, 197
Brandon, John, brass to, 38
Brasses, 38, Plate IV, 86, 86, 234, 234
— chrysome, 164
Brats, 300
Breast cloth of nun, 202, 203
— plate of horse, amulets on, 294
Breasts, bare, in Ancient Egypt, 74, 75
— — in Korea, 75, 75
— — in the time of James I, 76
Breeches, knee, 79
— of Lord Darnley, 286
— origin of the word, 311
— petticoat, of sailors, 252
— plush, 140, 141
— stuffed, 337
— Venetian, of pantaloon, 284
Bridesmaids, origin of presents made to, by bridegroom, 175
Bristol, Red Maid School of, 168
Broad arrow badge, 91
Bronze Age chieftains, dress of, 18, 19
— — people wore deerskin cloaks retaining horns, 117
— pins, 105
Brooch, 122
— safety-pin like an Etruscan, 102, 103
— the buckle, a, without hasp, 125
Brooches, pin ring, 125
— to fasten tunic, 17, 17
Buckle, 125
Bulgaria, shoe money in, 177
Burden, primitive method of carrying a, 106, 107
Busbies, caricatures of, 247, 248
Busby, 238
— development of, 59
— of Rifle Brigade, 242
— origin of the, Sir George Darwin on, 58, 59
— red flap on, 59, 59
Buskins, 195
Bust, padding used to improve the, 338
Butcher’s blue blouse, 320
Butterman, white clothes of, 320
Button, 118
— covered with crape, 243
— Mr. P. W. Reynolds on the survival of a, 248
Buttonholes, exaggerated on uniforms, 40
— knotched, 146
— laced, 146
— on the backs of coats, 27, 27, 28, 28
Buttons, 24, 248
— antiquity of, 120
— as chronicles, 25
— done up differently by men and women, 21, 23
— horizontal row of, on sleeve, 36, 36
— meaningless, on ladies’ dresses, 120
— numerous, on sleeve of undervest, 38; Plate IV, facing page 38
— of brass on Dutch skeleton dress, 145, 145
— — Legion of Honour, 158
— — man’s coat on right side, 20, 20
— — page boys, 144, 145
— — woman’s coat on left side, 20, 21
— on coats of Grenadier Guards, 29
— — cuffs, 35, 35
— — overcoats of Commissionaires, 30
— — postilion’s jackets, 38
— — sleeves of clergy, 36
— — the back of coats, 26, 26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 32, 33, 34
— — the back of tramway driver’s coats, 30, 31
— problematical, 15
Buttons replaced by knobs in the East, 20
— vertical row on sleeve, 37
Calthrop, Mr., on survivals of the chaperon, 158
— — — the costume of Harlequin, 283
— — — — evolution of the cockade, 156
— — — — origin of the cockade, 159
Camels, cowry shells on the trappings of, 297, 299
Cameron Erracht tartan, 242
— tartan, 242
Canaries, yellow, 303
Cane of drill sergeant, 241
Canes, be-ribboned, 124
— tasselled, 125
Cannibalism, probable origin of, 337
Canterbury Cathedral, shield, helmet, and surcoat of Black Prince in, 87, 88, 89
Cantlie, Dr., on short jackets, 356
— — — the effect of insufficient clothing, 355, 357
— — — — use of belts, 356
Cap, college, 47, 169, 212, 214
— Hungarian, 238
— judge’s sentence, 217
— line of Lancers, 241
— livery, 146
— of Beefeaters, 168
— — dignity, ecclesiastical, 213
— — housemaid, 149
— — Hungarian peasant, 59, 59
— — nuns, 201, 203, 204
— — the Lancers, a Polish head-dress, 239
— Scotch, streamers of, 53, 54
— statute, 168, 348
— Tudor flat, 214
Cape, combined with hood, 156, 157
Caps not to be worn by married women, 350
Cards, playing, show Tudor dresses, 231
Carolines, haircombs of West, 118
Cases of brass for waiters’ buttons, 144
Cassock, 200
— of Benedictines, 198
— once generally worn, 186
Casula, forerunner of the chasuble, 192
Cater cap, 212
Cattle, hornless, 303
Cavalryman, modern, compared with Cromwell’s Ironsides, 237, 237
Cave men, drawings of, 8, 9, 10
— — painting of the body by, 270
— — wore ornaments but no clothing, 8
Ceremony, primitive dress worn on occasions of, 5, 135
Chaco of Highland Light Infantry, 241
— — Scottish Rifles, 241
Chain mail, 233, 234, 234
Chains for the neck in Richard II’s time, 113
— of Mayors, origin of, 113
Chancellor of a University, robes of a, 210
Chapel keeper at Wellington Barracks, top hat of, 248
Chaperon, 152
— development of, 156, 157, 157
— of Richard II’s time, 157
— survival of, 228
— vestige on gowns of City Livery Companies, 231
— — — mantles of knights, 158, 230
Chaplet of flowers used after baptism, 164
Charles I regulates clerical costume, 185
— II, formation of Guards by, 246
Chasuble, 193, 194
— casula, the forerunner of, 192
Chauffeurs’ cockades, 160
Checks, 311
Chemise, 288
— gauze, of Merveilleuses, 346
Chevasse, Mr., on individuality shown by clothes, 316
Children carried on the left arm, 22
— dressed like their parents, 162
— sucking the left breast, 24
Chimere, 199
Chimpanzee, hair of, 6
China, painted pasteboard figures burnt at funerals in, 274
— puppet-show in, 259
— the use of paint by women in, 275
Chin band, 201, 202, 203
Chinese women, stunted foot of, 335
Chinook Indians, deforming the heads of children, 335
Chiton, 187
Choker, 200
Choristers at Jesus College, Cambridge, bands of, 45, 45
Chrism cloth, 164
Christians, dress of ancient, 187
— early, wore the same costume at worship as at home, 189
Christ’s Hospital, 167
Chrysalis, 163
Chrysolite as a detector of poison, 124
Chrysome, 164
— brasses, 164
Chulos in bull fight, red rag of, 306
Churches, Gothic, compared with hennin-like head-dress, 50, 51
Clans, tartans of Scotch, 312
— with several tartans, 312
Claremont, Mr., on opals and bad luck, 124
Clark, Professor E. C., on college caps, 213
Clavi, 191
Clement, St., on special dress for worship, 205
Clergy, adoption of vestments by English High Church, 192
— black habit of, 308
— buttons on sleeves of, 36
— condemnation of dress by, 344
— criticized for gorgeous apparel, 345
— in Holland, dresses of, 200
— wear academical hood over surplice, 199, 212
Cloaks, deer skin, of Bronze Age people, retaining horns, 117
Clock, meaning a gusset, 68, 68
— origin of, 68
Clocks of clowns, 269
Cloth, breast, 202, 203
— chrism, 164
— pied, 313
— parti-coloured, 313
Clothes, adopted for æsthetic reasons, 14
— — — reasons of coquetry, 14
— adoption of, for ornamentation, 8
— — — — reasons of modesty, 8
— — — — warmth, 8
— dispensed with on ceremonial occasions, 136
— distortions caused by, 322
— effect upon action, 341
— — of, upon the outsider, 315
— everyday, worn at night, 287
— first worn by women, 12
— in their development subject to the same laws that act upon the bodies of animals, 362
— made from the bark of trees, 11
— mental effect of, 339
— minimum of, worn at sports, 6
— not necessarily worn in cold climates, 11
— — worn at night, 287
— of animal actors, 301
— — dolls, 137
— — monkeys, 301
— — Punch, origin of, 257
— represented among animals, 291
— Sunday, 205
— swaddling, 163
— the principles of evolution applied to, 1
— used to alter the shape of the body, 337
— useful characters always retained, 15
— why worn, 8
— worn at executions, become unfashionable, 353
(See also under the headings of Costume and Dress)
Clothing, not worn by cave men, 8
— preferences of girls for different articles of, 340, 341
Clown, 283
— clocks of, 269
Clowns, painting of, likened to that once in vogue in China and Japan, 276
— paint of face of, 269
Clubbed hair, 134
Coachman, coat of, 142, 142
— Lord Mayor’s, wig-bag of, 143, 143
— origin of dress, 139
— red coat of royal, 235
— wig of, 132, 142, 142
Coastguard, revers of, buttoned back, 39
Coat, blue in sixteenth century, 168
— buff, 235
— development of the modern, 15
— evolved from the shawl, 16
— lapels, nicks in, 41, 41, 42
— patched, of harlequin, 283
— pouter, 141, 141
— red, a best, 235
— — origin of, 249
— — survived for a long time in Cornwall, 235
— skirts buttoned back for riding, 33
— swallow-tail, evolution of, 33, 34
Coats at Harrow, 169
— — Westminster, 169
— of arms, 83
— — Scottish Archers, 226
Coats, waterproof of, lambs, 300
Cobbett, criticisms on Quakers, 119
Cock of a hat, 61
Cockade, 61, 152, 152
— black, 153
— bow of ribbon on, 156
— evolution of, 153, 156, 157
— for mourning, 154, 154, 159
— jagged edges of, 158
— material of, 154
— of Chelsea pensioners, 155, 156
— — Danish ambassadors, 160
— — French ambassadors, 160
— — of various colours, 158
— regent, 155, 156, 159
— royal, 154, 155, 155, 159
— treble, 152, 156
Cockades, not under the jurisdiction of Heralds’ College or Lord Chamberlain, 153
— of foreign ambassadors, 160
— — chauffeurs, 160
— those entitled to use, 153, 159
— worn by gentlemen, 152
Cocking, 200
Coffins, Bronze Age, 18
Coif of Serjeant-at-law, 216
— Order of the, 215
— vestige of, 215, 217
Coin, custom of breaking, upon engagement, 115
Coldstream Regiment, motto of, 246
Collar, broad lace, at Eton, 169
— silver worn by additional drummer, 244
Collars, high, keep the head at a wrong angle, 356
— metal of Padaung women, 114; Plate VI, facing page 114
— of Court ushers and vergers, 218
— — ladies’ mantles standing up, 48
— — nuns, 202
— worn by pet animals, 298
Colobium sindonis, 221
Colonial, dress of the, 319
Colour, craving for, shown by the gorgeous dress of Masons, 308
— — — — — green scarfs of the Foresters, 308
— — — — — pageants, 306
— of academical dress, 309
Colours, 192
— gay uniforms come under the category of courtship, 250
— heraldic, derived from flags, still worn, 308
— house, 171
— of ancient drawings due to caprice of artists, 131
— — Naval uniform, 251
— — regiments, 309
Columbine, ballet dress of, 285
Comb as an ornament, 117, 118
Combs, hair, 118, 118
— loom, the origin of the ornamental comb, 117, 118
Combination garments of boiler cleaners, 320
— — — Normans, 320
Coombe Hill School, Westerham, dress worn by girls at, 172, 172
Commissionaires, buttons on overcoats of, 30
Companies, Livery, robes of, 138
Complexions, false, of Roman ladies, 278
Convicts’ dress, 91
Cope, 197, 199
— of fifteenth century, 212
Cornish, Mr. C. J., on animals’ clothes, 300
Corps piqué, Montaigne and Ambrose Paré on the suffering caused by the, 325
Corroboree, paint used at a, 272
Corset, misspelling of the word, 323
— of Greece, 328
— — Rome, 328
Corsets, crusade against, 325
Cosmetics used by Roman ladies, 278
Costermongers, dress of, 319
— trousers of, show progress of wearer’s courtship, 347
Costume, clerical, regulated by Charles I, 185
— connected with religion, 184
— ecclesiastical, similar to civil in early times, 188
— of barge-women, 110
— — the clown, Elizabethan, 269, 270
— — dolls, 267
— — milk-women, 110
— — nuns and abbesses resembled that of widows, 198
— — servants’, derived from that of masters, 139
— indicating the profession of the wearer, 316
Costumes adopted in girls’ schools, 171
— of hospitals for pensioners, 170
— ugliness of bloomers, 81, 360
(See also under the headings of Clothes and Dress)
Coulton, Mr. G. C., on the evolution of the maniple from a pocket-handkerchief, 194
Courier bags carried on a baldric, 106, 107
Court dress, mistakes made in, 227
— ushers, collars of, 218
Coventry, Lady, death due to painting the face, 279
Cowboy’s long hair, 127
Cows, clothing of, 300
— rainproof jackets of, 300
Cradle of American Indian papoose, 164
Cranmer, hat of, 214
Crescent as an amulet among the Romans, 293
— made by joining two boars’ tusks, 294
— worn on a special strap by German horses, 295
Crest and badge, difference between, 90
— — surcoat of Henry Duke of Lancaster, 86, 86
— on helmet, 83
— — signet ring, 85
— worn upon cap of Lord Mayor’s postilion, 92, 92
Creel carried on a baldric, 106
Crinoline, 337
— devised to hide the shape of a princess, 344
— of the young women of Otaheite, 338
Croft School, Betley, dress worn by girls at, 173, 173
Crombie, Mr. James, on superstitions connected with weddings, 176
Crook, shepherd’s, 195
Crosier, 221
Cross of nuns, 202
— older than Christianity, 122
Cross-belt of Rifle Brigade, 242
Crown, 158, 221
— bridal, 180
— Tudor, superseded that of St. Edward, 224, 224
Crusaders, 344
Cuff, turned back, 35, 36, 37, 38
Cuffs, 35
— of widow, 183
— white lawn, used as mourning by King’s Counsel, 220
— worn by the legal profession as part of mourning, 183
Cuirass of Household troops, 233
Culloden, battle of, 249
Currencies carried on the person, 113
— ornaments as, 112
Cussan’s “Handbook of Heraldry,” 159
Custom of breaking a coin upon engagement, 115
Dalmatic, 190, 195, 221
— compared with a shirt, 288
— of Bishop, fringes on, 190
— — deacon, fringes on left side only, 191
— symbolism of fringes, 191
Damascus, damask takes its name from, 313
Damask takes its name from Damascus, 313
Dane, dress of the, 319
Darnley, Lord, breeches of, 286
Darwin, Charles, on the loss of hair by man, 7
— — theory of evolution, 2
— Sir George, on buttons, 30
— — — — evolution in dress, 3
— — — — the origin of busbies, 58, 59
— — — — top boots, 65, 65
— — — — why plumes are on the left side, 58, 58
D’Aubernoun, Sir John, brass of, showing chain-mail, 234
David, shield of, 293
Dawkins, Professor Boyd, on the origin of the hair comb, 117
Deacons, stoles of, 192
Deaths due to painting the face, 279
Decoys, dogs dressed as duck, 301
Deformities caused by bandaging infants, 164
Demeter, 297
Denmark, dress of Bronze Age chieftains, 18, 19
Depression in a judge’s wig, 215, 216
Diamond, supposed powers of the, 124
Diamonds, always fashionable, 123
Diaper appeared in reign of Henry II, 313
— derived from D’Ypres, 313
Dinners, handkerchief used for wrapping, 195
Diodorus on the plaid of, 312
Distortion of the head, 336
Divorce, Bedouin form of, 178
Djibah, 172, 173
Doctor in the Punch and Judy show, 263, 264
— of Divinity, scarf of, 192
— round cap of, 213
Dogs, dress of, as duck decoys, 301
— hairless, 303
Dolls, clothes of, 137
— costume, 267
— in swaddling clothes, Mr. Edward Lovett on, 268
Dolman of the Hussars, 81, 239
Donkeys, cowry shells on trappings of, 297
Drawings of cave men, 8, 9, 10
Dress, academical, 208
— — Druitt on, 210
— bridal, 175
— characteristic of trades, 320
— children’s, Dr. Alice Vickery on, 165
— colour in academical, 309
— condemnation of, by the clergy, 344
— Court, 226
— — mistakes made in, 227
— does not usually show rank, 319
— Dutch skeleton, 145, 145
— evening, black and white, 308
— — suggests correct behaviour, 340
— Highland, 162
— League, Rational, 354
— monastic, 198
— more primitive, worn on occasions of ceremony, 135
— naval, supposed survivals in, 252
— of acrobats, 286
— — ancient Christians, 187
— — animals, 291
— — beadles, 147, 262, 264
— — coachmen, origin of, 139
— — convicts, 91
— — costermongers, 319
— — footmen, origin of, 139
— — girls at Coombe Hill School, Westerham, 171, 172
— — — — the Croft School, Betley, 173, 173
— — grooms, origin of, 139
— — harlequins, 283
— — heads of churches in Scotland, 200
— — jockeys, coloured, 147
— — King’s Counsel, 218
— — Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, 321
— — monks, 201
— — Mrs. Bloomer, 81, 361
Dress of Norwegian bride, 180
— — nuns, 201, 203
— — particular trades, 149
— — peasants, gay, 309
— — Punch and Judy, 137, 253
— — Romans, 187
— — servants, 139
— — the American, 318
— — — Austrian, 318
— — — Colonial, 319
— — — Dane, 319
— — — Frenchman, 318
— — — German, 318
— — — Hungarian, 318
— — — Norwegian, 319
— — — Spaniard, 318
— — St. Nicholas, 137
— — soldiers previous to the Restoration, 236
— — Yeomen of the Guard, 223, 225
— once indicated rank, 319
— origin of, 6
— parti-coloured, came into fashion in Edward II’s time, 313
— profession often not indicated by, 315
— rank indicated in certain professions by, 320
— rational, 81, 361
— reform, 354
— simplification of Court, 226
— special, for worship, 205
— tax on elegant, 350
— to be according to station, 350
— ugliness of evening, 208
— Union, Healthy and Artistic, 354
— used in special occupations, 320
Dresses, bridal, often survivals, 180
— special school, 168
— with trains to be kept for ceremonial occasions, 358
Dressing-gowns, 138, 358
Drops for ears, 112
Druitt, Mr., on academical dress, 210
— — — boys dressed in petticoats, 165
— — — the coif, 216
Drummer, extra of Third Hussars, 244
Dutch settler’s wife, Miss Alice Morse Earle on the dress of, 359
— skeleton dress, 145, 145, 272
Dyes for tartans obtained from native plants, 313
Eagles on coronation robe, 222
Ear drops, 112
Ears, perforated for rings, 112
Earle, Miss Alice Morse, on the costume of the wife of a Dutch settler, 359
Eckenstein, Miss Lina, on horse brasses, 293
Edward II, beard of, 130
— III, badge of, 91
— — beard of, 129
— IV, beard of, closely shaven, 130
— VII, robes worn at the coronation of, 222
Egypt, finger rings in, 114
Egyptian graves, models of servants put into, 268
— pins, 105
— rings of blue pottery, 116
Egyptians, ancient, bury amulets with their dead, 122
— blackening eyelids, 270
— early, tattooing practised by, 277
— modern, tattooing practised by, 277
— prehistoric, beads of, 112
Elizabeth, statute cap of, 168
— Queen, stocking of, 68
Elizabeth’s coronation glove, stitching carried on to the back of, 97, 98
— reign, ruffs of, 48
Elsyng, brass in church at, 86, 86
Elves’ arrows as pendants, 123
Elworthy, Mr., on horns of honour, 117
Embroidery carried on to the backs of gloves, 98, 99
Emeralds always fashionable, 123
Epaulettes, 238
— worn by the Gentlemen-at-Arms, 238
— — — officers of the Yeomen of the Guard, 238
— — — the Lords-Lieutenant of Counties, 238
— — in the Navy, 238
Ermine, 222
— bands of, indicate rank, 223
Eskimos descendants of the cave men, 10
— shoes, piece of old, worn by, to ensure fruitfulness, 178
Essex, fish-hooks made of thorns in, 125
Eton, gowns worn by scholars at, 169
— jacket, 169
— white tie at, 169
Etruscan brooch, safety-pin like an, 102, 103
Eutropius, St., ceremony of garters, 71
Evolution, the principles applied to clothes, 1
Ewart, Sergeant, captures a French eagle, 245
Eyelashes, removal of, 128
— lid, blackening of, by Egyptians, 270
— sacred on rings, 117
— stone or opal, 124
— third in slow worm, 3
Executions, clothes worn at, become unfashionable, 353
Face plate of horse, amulets on, 294
— sooty, of harlequin, 283
Facings, regimental, abolished in 1881, 238
— why a different colour from that of the coat, 34
Fairholt on bandaged stockings, 67, 67
— — the origin of the mortar-board, 214
Fans called sunshades, 280
— for blowing up a fire, 280
— origin of, 280
Farces, Atella, celebrated for Italian, 254
Farthingale, 337
Fashion determines the amount of the body which is to be covered, 14
Fashions due to royal peculiarities, 131
— gay, follow periods of depression, 345
— in hair arrangement, 126
— kept up by superstitions, 349
— origin of, difficult to trace, 354
— the killing of, 352
Favours, 192
Fawkes, Guy, 225
Feathers, objections to the wearing of, 121
— of birds of paradise, 121
— — ostriches, 122
— peacocks’, unlucky because of eyes, 124
— wearing of, 121
Ficorroni, 258
Field-Marshal’s baton, 223
Fillet, 175
— forerunner of the hatband, 52, 52
— head, 149
— vestiges of, 52, 52
Finn, Huckleberry, 341
— Mrs., on bells derived from flowers, 314
Fireman, helmet of, 60, 60
— private, badge of, 91
Fisher folk, barefooted, 334
Fish, gold, with several tails, 303
— hook made of a thorn in Essex, 125
Fitzroy, General, 244
Flaccus, Dr. Louis W., on the effect of clothes on the minds of school-girls, 339, 340
— — — — — — preference of girls for different articles of clothing, 340, 341
Flags, heraldic colours of, still worn as favours, 308
Flap, red, on busby, 59, 59
Flash on Court dress, 228, 229
— of Welsh Fusiliers, 133, 134, 241
Fleshings, pink, of Merveilleuses, 346
Fleur-de-lys, 222, 293
— on braid of drummers of the Guards, 246
— removed from royal arms, 246
Flower, Sir William, on deforming of the foot, 334
— — — — injuries caused by tight lacing, 324
— — — — the most highly evolved foot, 333
Flowers, chaplet of, used after baptism, 164
— wearing of, 121
— worn at Eton on Fourth of June, 171
— — by a bride, 175
Folds of robes used as pockets by Arabs, 110
Foot, deforming of the, 334
— gear, early, 62
— Guards, drum-major’s livery cap, 146
— Sir William Flower on deforming of the, 334
— — — — — the most highly evolved, 333
— stunted, of Chinese woman, 335
— the ideal in art, 333, 334
Footman, 140, 141, 149
— origin of dress, 139
Footmen, aiguillettes worn by, 240
— flaps of, 32, 33
— wig of, 132
— with powdered hair, 131
Fourchettes of gloves, 97, 98
Fourragère, 241
Fowls, top-knotted, 303
Fox-hunters, red coat of, 235
Frenchman, dress of, 318
Frills, 227
Fringe of a shawl, origin of, 16
Fringes, Mr. Macalister on symbolism of, on dalmatics, 191
Frock coat, 148
Frontal of nun, 203, 204
Fruitfulness, superstitious practices to ensure, 179, 180
Funerals, horse trappings still used at, 292
— painted pasteboard figures burnt in China at, 274
Fur, 11
— use of, in the army, 247
Fusiliers, Welsh, flash of, 133, 134
Fylfot, 122; see Plate VII, Fig. F, facing page 129
Gagging, art of, not modern, 254
Gaiters, 70
Garlands, wearing of, signifies virginity, 180
Garment, new, put on over old, 148
Garments, dislike of divided, 359
— flowing, give an elegant effect, 137, 357
— — — dignity, 187, 357
— long, of Noah’s Ark figures, 268
Garter, 158
Garters as insignia, 71
— golden, of Merveilleuses, 346
— of girls, annual ceremony in Haute-Vienne, 71
— ornamental, 71
Gatty, Sir Alfred Scott, on cockades, 153
Gauntlets worn by masons, 232
Gentleman of George III’s time, 141, 143
George II’s reign, coachman, coat of, 142, 142
— — on naval uniform, 251
— III, black coats at Eton, mourning for, 169
— — gentleman’s dress, 141, 143
— III’s reign, the pouter coat of, 141
German, dress of the, 318
Germs of disease disseminated by trailing skirts, 358
Giangurgolo, Calabrian, 1731, 257, 257
Gimmal rings, 115
Girdle, 73
— of judge, 217
Girl catching an object in her lap, 341
Girls, colour preferences of, 307
— in factories, barefooted, 334
— wearing their hair down, 166
Gladstone, Mr., abolished the serjeants-at-law, 217
Gloucestershire regiment, badges of, 245
Glove of Anne, Consort of James I, 98, 99
— stitching carried on to the back of Elizabeth’s coronation, 97, 98
— — — down the back of, 97, 98
Gloves, 94, 195
— early, without fingers, 94
— embroidery carried on to the backs of, 98, 99
— fourchettes of, 97, 98
— not worn by nuns, 204
— points on, 96, 98
— with two thumbs in Iceland, 95
God, solar, of Egypt, 123
Gold dust put on the head, 131
Golfers, red coat of, 235
Gordon, Miss Helen, on painting used in the time of Queen Anne, 279
Gorget the badge of an officer on duty, 235
Gorilla, hair of, 6
Gown, 18
— black, 185
— Geneva, bands worn with, 44
— of judge, 217
— — King’s Counsel, 218
— — Master of Arts, 210
— — Oxford Undergraduates, 210
Gowns, black, legal mourning for Queen Mary II, 218
— worn by scholars at Eton, 169
Greek betrothal rings, 115
Gremial, 202
Grenadier, caps of Scots Greys, 244
Greys, Scots, 245
Grenadier Guards, 248
Groom, 140
— origin of belt, 139
— — — dress, 139
Guards, drummers of, fleur-de-lys on braid of, 246
— formation of, by Charles II, 246
— Grenadier, 248
— — buttons on coats of, 29
— Irish, 248
— Life and Horse, survival of cord for priming powder horn, 108
— Scots, 248
— white jackets of, 243
Guignol, 255
— French punch, 257
— the name derived from Giangurgolo, 257
Guild liveries, 232
Guinea, New, women wear no clothes, 9
Habit, black of clergy, 308
Habits, monastic, 198
Hackle feathers of Northumberland Fusiliers, 244
Hair, clubbed, 134
— curly, imitated, 130
— dedication of, 128
— dishevelling of, as mourning, 181
— down, girls wearing their, 166
— early man covered with, 6
— great value attached to a profuse head of, 128
— long, not necessarily effeminate, 127
— not correlated with cold climate, 6
— of women dressed differently from that of men, 128
— powder, 131
— — coloured, 131
— putting up of, by girls, 166
— queued, 134
— Roman modes of doing the, 132; Plate VII, facing page 129
— use of others, 130
Halberds of Yeomen of the Guard, 225
Handkerchief in general use in Henry VIII’s time, 195
— used for wrapping up dinners, 195
— — — — — presents, 195
Hanover, cockade of House of, 153
Harem, 13
Harlequin, 261, 267
— coat of, worn by the Lord of Montbron, 283
— modern dress of, 283, 284
— origin of the character, 282
— patched coat of, 283
— shaven head of, 283
— sooty face of, 283
— wand of, 283
Harlequinade, 269, 282
Harlequinne, 285
Harrow, coats at, 169
— swallow tails at, 170
Hat band, 52
— — origin of, 52
— cocked, development of, 60, 60
— Cranmer’s, 214, 214
— for hunting with lacing, 56, 56
— how made from a disc of material 57, 57
— of a bishop of the Stuart period, 214, 214
— sailor, streamers of, 53, 53
— tall, used in the Army, 248
Hats with the underside painted green, 271
— women in church without, 206
Haweis, Mrs., dressing to suit her surroundings, 310
Hawaiian Islands, hut of, 49
Haybands forerunners of leg bandages, 67
Head, distortion of, 336
Head-dress of French lawyer, 158
— — — Henry II’s reign surviving in that of nuns, 201, 203
— — shawl as a, 61
— — Siamese, compared with a Votive Spire, 50, 51
— shaven, of harlequin, 283
— shaving, 127
— strap, 203
Heads, deforming of children’s, by Chinook Indians, 335
Hearse cloths, 232
Heart-shaped amulets, 295, 296, 296
Hector the horse extinct in Punch and Judy show, 267
Helmet of Black Prince, 87, 88
— fireman’s, 60, 60
— plate, 158
Helmets, metal, 60
Henna used for staining fingers and toes by Egyptians, 271
Henry VIII’s reign, handkerchief came into general use in, 195
Heppel, Mr. George, on Punch and Judy, 253
— — — — figures worked by wires, 255
Heraldry, Handbook of, by Cussan, 159
Heralds, tabards of, 83
Hereditary badges, 90
Hide, raw, shoe made of, 64, 64
Highland corps, white jackets of, 243
— dress, 162
Hindu ayahs, nose rings of, 111
— women, painting of the feet scarlet by, 273
— — teeth blackened by, 273
Hodgson, Miss, uses a doll to show costume, 174
Hogarth’s engravings of children, 162
Holland, dress of clergy in, 200
Holy Land, swaddling clothes persist in, 163, 333
Hood, 198
— academical, 210
— — wearing of, by clergymen, 199, 212
— combined with cape, 156, 156, 157
— enlargement of the peak, 156, 157
— of a Knight of the Garter, 229, 230
— — Bachelor of Arts, 212
— — nuns, 202, 203
— — the Order of the Thistle, 230
— — — — — St. Patrick, 230
— — undergraduates, liripipe of, 211
— peak of prolonged, to form liripipe, 157
— tiny, on barrister’s gown, 218, 219
Horn for priming powder, survival of cords for suspending, 108
Horns of honour, 117
Horse amulets, 293, 294, 294, 295, 296
— clothing, 292
— brass, crescent shaped, derived from boar’s tusks, 294, 294
— brasses, English, the counterpart of those shown on Trajan’s column, 295
— — Dr. Plowright on the origin of some, 293
— — Miss Lina Eckenstein on, 293
— — heraldic, 295
— identified as a corn spirit, 297
— trappings, 292
— — still used at funerals, 292
— white, of Hanover, 243
Horses, black, used at funerals, 303
— circus, 303
— grey, carry the kettledrums, 303
— hats of, 300
— killing of, at harvest time, 297
— sun-bonnets, 300
— white carry the kettledrums, 303
Hose, Florentine, 70, 286
— tights, a survival of Florentine, 286
— trunk, 269
— — of acrobat, 286
— — — clown, 269
— — — knights, 231
Household cavalry, bandsmen’s livery caps, 146
Housemaid, apron of, 149
— cap of, 149
Hounds, Dalmatian, as carriage dogs, 303
Howard of Effingham, hat of Lord, 248
Hump of Punch, back, 262, 263
— — — front, origin of, 253
Hungarian, dress of the, 318
— peasant’s cap, 59, 59
Huntsman, livery cap of, 146
Hussars, 59
— cowry shells on trappings of horses of, 297, 298
— dolman of, 81, 239
— Eighth, wear sword-belts over their shoulders, 243
— Eleventh, wear ivory-hilted swords, 244
— Fifteenth, wear Austrian imperial lace, 244
— lacing of, 146
— prickers on shoulder belt of, 239, 239
— sling jacket of, 81, 239
— Third, extra drummer of, 244
— uniform of, 272
Hut of Hawaiian Islands, 49
Iceland, glove with two thumbs, 95
India, lotus flowers on king’s mantle, symbolical of, 222
Indian Army, puttees of, 66
Infant, bib of, 167
— binder of, 163
Infants, deformities caused by bandaging, 164
— powdered, 162
— patched, 162
Inner Temple, badge of the porters of, 91
Ireland, pin-ring brooches in, 125
Irish Guards, 248
Ironside of Cromwell compared with a modern cavalryman, 237, 237
Italian women age rapidly, 329
Jacket, Cardigan, 18
— Eton, 169
— smoking, suggests relaxation, 340
Jackets, rainproof, for cows, 300
— white, of Guards, 243
— — — Highland corps, 243
Japan, use of paint by women in, 275
Japanese actors paint the face, 273
— children, painting the face of, 273
— women, teeth blackened by, on marriage, 273
Java, earliest man in, 7. See Frontispiece
Jerome, St., on special dress for worship, 205
Jesson, Mr. W. H., a performer of Punch and Judy, 262
Jesus College, Cambridge, choristers’ bands, 45, 45
Jewesses shave their heads, 127
Jews, 205
— rending their garments, 42
— tattooing practised by, 277
Joan the old name of Judy, 266
Jockey, livery cap of, 147
— parti-coloured dress of, 147, 313
Johanna, 301
Judge, girdle of, 217
— gown of, 217
— sentence cap of, 217
— wig of, 132, 216, 216
Judith, 267
Judy, dress of, 263
— apron of, 263
— mob cap of, 262, 263
— once known as Joan, 266
— origin of the name, 266
Kamarband worn by officers, 249
Kayans of Borneo, clothes of bark worn by, as mourning, 181
Kefiyeh fastened with a fillet of camel’s hair, 53
Kersey, 351
Kettledrums, silver, 244
Kilburn Sisters, 201, 202
Kilt of sailors, 252
— short, 76, 76
Kimono brought from Japan, 344
King’s Counsel, dress of, 218
— — gown of, 218
— — white lawn cuffs used as mourning by, 220
— footmen, red coats of, 235
Kirkudbrightshire, pin-ring brooches of blacksmiths in, 125
Knee-breeches worn when speeches are made at Eton, 170
Knickerbocker suits, jersey, 165
Knickerbockers, 80
— of blue-coat boys, 167
— a recognized feature of children’s costume, 163
Knights of the Garter, 229
— — — — chaperon on robes of, 158
— — St. Patrick, 229
— — the Thistle, 229
Knobs in the East take the place of buttons, 20
Kohl, 271
Label to difference arms, 86, 86, 88
Labourers’ method of buttoning trousers, 252
Lace, Austrian imperial, worn by Fifteenth Hussars, 244
Lacedæmonian girls, tunics of, slit down the sides, 346
Lacerna, 198
Laces, 100, 101
Lacing inside a hat, 55
— of Hussars, 146
— tight, banned by Charles IV and Henry III, 326
— — in England, 326
— — made compulsory by Catherine de Medici, 326
Ladies, armorial bearings on dresses of, 84, 85
— married with flowing tresses, 166
— wear pyjamas, 288
Lady gardeners at Kew wear trousers, 358
Lake dwellings, pins found in Swiss, 105
Lamb, Persian, used for making spots on miniver, 222
Lambs that supply the wool for the pallium, 196
— waterproof coats of, 300
Lancaster, Henry Duke of, crest and surcoat of, 86, 86
Lancers, 39
Lap, boys and girls catching objects in their, 341
Lawn sleeves of a bishop, 199
Laws for the good of trade, 348
Lawyer, head-dress of French, 158
Leech, caricatures the busbies of the Guards, 247
Leg bandages, 66, 66, 67
— — derived from haybands, 67
— — of pfiferari, 68
Leggings, survival of the wearing of skins, 70
Legion of Honour, buttons of, 158
Leicestershire Regiment, tiger-skin aprons of, 249
Leopards on Arms of England, 86
Life Guards, black plumes of farriers of, 242
— — — tunics of farriers of, 242
Light Infantry, Duke of Cornwall’s puggaree of, 243
Lindley, Lord, last surviving serjeant-at-law, 217
Linen, strip of, round head as mourning in Egypt, 182
— the showing of, 44
Lion spotted when young, 94
Lions on Arms of England, 86
Liripipe, 156, 157, 157, 210, 230
— of undergraduates’ hoods, 211
— peak of hood prolonged to form, 156, 156
Lip plugs, 111
Liveries of the City Companies, 231
Livery cap, 146
— — of bandsmen of the Household Cavalry, 146
— — — drum-major of the Foot Guards, 146
— — — jockeys, 147
— — — huntsmen, 146
— Companies, chaperon, vestige on gowns of, 231
— of page-boy, 145, 145
— — porters, 148
Locket, 122
Loom combs, 117, 118
Lord Mayor’s coachman, wig-bag of, 134, 143, 143
— — postilion, crest worn upon cap of, 92, 92
Lotus flowers symbolical of India, on Edward VII’s mantle, 222
Louis XVI, hair of, gave rise to wigs, 131
Louterell, Sir Geoffrey, figure showing armorial bearings, 84, 85
Lovett, Mr. Edward, on dolls in swaddling clothes, 268
— — — — origin of pin-ring brooches, 125
— — — — patterns derived from tattooing, 278
Lyman, Dr., explanation of buttons being differently arranged on the clothes of the two sexes, 22
Macalister, Mr., on fashions, 189
— — — symbolism of the fringes on dalmatics, 191
— — — the pallium, 196
— — — — surplice, 185
— — — there being no distinctive garments for the ministers, among early Christians, 190
Macphersons, tartan of the, 312
Magnin, M., on the origin of Punch’s hump, 261
Mail, chain, vestige of, on shoulder of Imperial Yeoman, 233, 233
— plate, 235
Malachite used for painting by prehistoric Egyptians, 271
Man cook, white clothes of, 320
— Isle of, triskele in the coat-of-arms of, 119
— once hairy, 7. Frontispiece
— skin of, originally reddish, 13
— primitive, 5
Manche, 146
Maniple, 221
— once a napkin, 194
Manning, Mrs., hung in a black satin dress, 353
Manservant, modern, 143
Mantle, imperial, 221
— of Edward VII, lotus flowers on, 222
— — Queen Victoria, roses on, 222
Mantles of ladies, collars standing up, 48
Maoris, tattooing of, 277
Mare, the last uncut ears of corn, 297
Marken, women of, floral designs on the bodice, 278
Market woman, sun-bonnet of, 61
Marines, Royal, mourning of, 243
Marionettes, 255
Marriage by capture, 175
Marriott, Mr., on the colour of early vestments, 190
Martingale of horse, amulets on, 294
Mask, unwritten laws that rule the wearing of, 281
Masks of the 5th of November a reminder of primitive face-painting, 280
— worn by savages, 280
Mason, Mr. Otis T., on pockets, 110
Masons, aprons of, 232
— insignia of, 231
Master, clothing of, becomes that of servant, 5, 152
Maud, 20
Maundy Thursday, 226
Mayhew, Mr. Henry, on Punch and Judy, 265
Medical officers, volunteer, wear cocked hats, 247
Men, colour preferences of, 307
Merveilleuses, 345, 345
Mess jacket of Somersetshire Light Infantry, 242
Meyer, Dr., on the padding of sleeves above the shoulder to prevent weapons from slipping off, 338
Mice, piebald, 302
Milk-women, apron of, 150
— — costume of, 110
— — with yokes, 110
Milton, bands of, 46
Mimes, Roman, 183, 282, 283
Mimi, 282
Miniver, 222
— rows of black spots on, indicate rank, 223
Mitten, open work, 99
Mittens and tattooing, 99
Mitre, 221
— strings of, 54, 54
Mizpah rings, 116
Mob cap worn by Judy, 262, 263
Modesty a habit, 12
— different ideas of, in various regions, 12
— ideas of, Arab women, 207
Molière introduces Punch into Le Malade Imaginaire, 261
Monk, General, 246
Monkeys, clothes of, 301
Monk, dress of, 201
— scapular of, 201
— tunic of, 201
Montbron, Lord of, harlequin’s coat worn by, 283
Montaigne on the sufferings caused by the corps piqué, 325
Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, and painting, 279
Montem at Eton, 171
Moore, Sir John, black worm as mourning for, 242
Mortar-board, 47, 169, 212, 214
Moseley, Professor, on face-painting in China, 273, 274, 275; see Plate X, fig. C facing p. 270
— — — painting the body, 272
— — — the use of paint by women in Japan, 275
Mosque-like turban, 50, 50
Mourning bands of barristers, 219
— black as, 181
— black band on arm for, 182
— — worm for Sir John Moore as, 242
— clothes of bark worn by Kayans of Borneo as, 181
— cuffs worn by the legal profession as part of, 183
— dishevelling of hair as, 181
— for death of Nelson, 252
— — General Wolfe, black worm as, 242
— of Royal Marines, 243
— purple as, 182
— sackcloth as, 181
— strip of linen round head in Egypt as, 182
— white as, 182
— white lawn cuffs used by King’s Counsel as, 220
— yellow as, 182
Moustache, 129
Mules, cowry shells on trappings of, 297, 299
Mutes at children’s funerals, 182
Nail, horseshoe, as part of a pin-ring brooch, 125
Nakedness, effect of, destroyed by tattooing even in Europeans, 277
Napkin, 194, 195
Naval uniforms, 251
Navvies wear belts, 329
Neapolitan, the, as an actor, 254
Neck chains, 113
— — of Richard II’s time, 113
Nelson, mourning for death of, 252
Neuville, M. Lemercier de, on Punch’s stick, 260
Newcombe, Allan Poe, on hats and habitations, 49
Nicks in coat lapels, 41, 41, 42
Nightcap of man, 290, 290
— — woman, 289, 290
Nightcaps, elaboration of, restricted in the reign of Mary, 290
— of Tudors, 289
— still worn, 289
Night-dresses worn by ladies in the street in Anne’s reign, 290
Nightgown, the bands on a lady’s, 288, 289
Night rails, 290
Nightshirt cut like a day shirt, 288
Noah’s Ark figures, long garments of, 268
Norman chin-band, 201, 203
Normans closely shaved their beards, 129
— combination garments of, 320
— wore trousers, 79
Northumberland Fusiliers, hackle feathers of, 244
— — wear roses, 245
Norwegian, dress of the, 319
Nose rings of Hindu ayahs, 111
Novice, veil of, 202
Nuns, 201, 203
— aprons of, 202
— breast cloth of, 202, 203
— cap of, 202, 203, 204
— collar of, 202
— costume of, 198
— cross of, 202
— frontal of, 203, 204
— hood of, 202, 203
— not allowed to wear gloves, 204
— scapular of, 202
— veil of, 202, 203
— wear wedding-rings, 204
Nurse, hospital, uniform of, 150
Nurses, domestic, imitating hospital nurses’ dress, 150
O’Connor, Dr. Bernard, on bloomers, 361
— — — — woman’s dress for active exercises, 361
Officers, commanding, choice of uniform, 242, 243
— non-commissioned, stripes on sleeves of, 114
Opal, supposed powers of the, 124
Opals, always fashionable, 123
— and bad luck, 124
Openwork mittens, 99
— of Roman shoe, 62, 63
— stocking, 69, 69
Ophal, 124
Orange blossom, 180
Orang-utan, hair of, 6
Oraria, distribution of, by Aurelian, 192
Orarium, 191, 195
Order of the Coif, 216
Origin of fashions difficult to trace, 354
— — mayoral chains, 113
— — the clock, 68
Ornament, love of, among simple races, 8
Ornamentation of modern boots, 62, 63
— — — shoes, 62
Ornaments as currencies, 112
— of Stone Age, 112
— serve for identification, 10
— shells as, 112
— why they survive, 111
— worn even if there are little clothes, 9; see Plate II, facing page 9
Orphrey, the apparel of the chasuble, 196
Ostrich feathers, 122
Oxford University, Chancellor of, hanging sleeve of, 210, 211
— — undergraduate’s gown, 210
Overcoat, 149
Pads in hair dressing, 131
Padding, 338
Page-boy, buttons of, 144, 145
— — livery of, 145, 145
Pageants, success of, a sign of the craving for colour, 306
Paint on face of clowns, 269
— use of, by women in Japan, 275
— — — — — — China, 275
— — — at a corroboree, 272
— — — in war to terrify, 273
Painted pasteboard figures burnt at funerals in China, 274
Painting, 13
— by native races, 272
— follows the bones of the body, 272
— of clowns likened to that once in vogue in China and Japan, 276
— — the body by cave men, 270
— practised by civilized men, 280
— the body among Andaman Islanders, 276
— — — Professor Moseley on, 272
— — eyes, practised by the prehistoric Egyptian, 6000 B.C., 271
— — face to hide the ravages of time, 278
— — — — heighten its beauty, 278
— — — deaths due to, 279
— — — of Japanese children, 273
— — — — — actors, 273
— — feet scarlet by Hindu women, 273
Palettes, slate, in the form of two birds in prehistoric Egypt, 295
— — of the New Race, 271
Pall, 197
— manufacture of, 196
Pallium, 195
— development of the, 196
Palmerston’s, Lord, broad-toed shoes, 335
Panache derived from the horn, 117
Pantaloon, 254, 261, 283, 285
— Elizabethan costume of, 269, 285, 285
Pantomimes, 269, 282
Pantomimi, 282
Papoose, swathing of American Indian, 164
Paré, Ambrose, on the suffering caused by the corps piqué, 325
Paris, waistbands, trade in, discarded, 348
Parliamentary officials, wigs of, 132
Parti-coloured dress of Athletic clubs, 313
— — — jockeys, 313
Patches indicating political views, 279
— of Charles I’s reign banned by the Puritans, 278
— reappear in Charles II’s reign, 279
Pattern, pine, origin of, 311
Patterns, breeches of chequered, worn by Gauls and early inhabitants of England, 311
Peasant dress, slight survivals in England, 150; Plate VII, facing page 150
Pelisse obtained from Persia, 344
Pendants, 122
Pensioners, costumes of, 170
People, uncivilized, without pockets, 9
Persian women wear trousers, 81
Pet animals, collars worn by, 298
Perthshire, the bare feet of children in, 333
Petrie, Professor, on Romano-Egyptian portrait models, 132
— — — buttons in Egypt, 120
— — — the origin of a supposed shield-shaped ornament, 296
Petticoat at first not shaped, 73
— hooped, 337
Petticoats, lengthening of, 166
— of sailors, 252
— — small boys, 165
Pfiferari, cross gartering of, 68
— leg bandages of, 68
Phallic worship, 122
Pig-tail, grease of, 252
Pileus quadratus, 212
Pillion, 140
Pin, safety, 101, 118
— — in hat, 104, 104
— — — waistband, 103, 104
— — like an Etruscan brooch, 102, 103
— scarf, 118
Pinafore, 150
Pinafores now children’s dress, 167
Pin-money, 105
Pinner, 150
Pins, bronze, 105
— Egyptian, 105
— found in Swiss Lake dwellings, 105
— gold, 197
— made of thorns, 125
— of bone, 105
— ornamental, 106
— scarf, 106
Pithecanthropus erectus, 7
Plaid, 20, 187
— belted, 72
— shepherd’s, 312
Plaids, 311
Plastron of Hussars, 148
Plowright, Dr., on the Moorish origin of some horse brasses, 293
Plugs for lips, 111
Plumes, black, of farriers of Life Guards, 242
— why on left side, 58
Plush, 149
— breeches, 104, 141
Pocket flaps, vestiges of, 32, 33
Pockets, 109
— in the sleeves of a Corean, 110
— side, 30
— uncivilized people without, 9
Points, 98
— on gloves, 96, 98
Policeman’s coat, buttons on the back of, 26, 26
— uniform not worn by children, 163
Polly, Miss, in the Punch and Judy show, now extinct, 265
Polypus (= the octopus) changing colour, 206
Porters, livery of, 148
— railway, waistcoats of, 148
Portugal, Queen of, demonstrates the evils of tight-lacing by means of radiographs, 325
Postilions, buttons on jackets of, 38
— coats of His Majesty’s, 145
— of Lord Mayor, crest worn upon cap of, 92, 92
Postulant, veil of, 202
Poupée derived from pupa, 163
Pouter coat, 141, 141
Powder, 149
— for hair, 131
Prayer-book, first, of Edward V, ornaments, rubric of, upheld by Act of Uniformity, 199
— — second, of Edward VI, 199
— — vestments prescribed by the, first, of Edward VI, 198
Prickers on the shoulder-belt of a Hussar, 239, 239
Priest, 194
Profession indicated by costumes, 316
Puggaree of Duke of Cornwall’s Light Infantry, 243
Pulicinella, 254
— means a hen chicken, 264
— Oscan, of 1731, 256
Punch, 263
— a Roman mime, 183
— and Judy, dress of, 137
— — — show, beadle of, 147, 262, 264
— — — — doctor of, 263
— — — — Hector, the horse, extinct in, 267
— — — — Miss Polly, now extinct in, 265
— back hump of, 262, 263
— bronze statuette with face and features of, 258, 258
— figures worked by wires, 255
— front hump of, 253, 261
— gay clothes of, in France and England, 261
— in religious plays, 266
— introduced into Le Malade Imaginaire, by Molière, 261
— origin of clothes of, 257
— — —, hump of, 253, 261
— ruff of, 262, 263
— stick of, 260
— the behaviour of, changes, 264
— voice of, 264
Pupa, Greek name for a baby in swaddling clothes, 163
Puppet derived from pupa, 163
— show of fourteenth century, 259, 259
— shows in China, 259
Puritans and Quakers, fashions set by, 348
Purple as mourning, 182
Puttees, 66, 66, 328
— of Indian Army, 66
Pyjamas, 128
— worn by ladies, 288
Pym, John, bands of, 46, 46
Quakers refused to wear buttons, 119
Queued hair, 134
Quiver carried on a baldric, 106
Ra, 122
Rats, white, 302
Rank once indicated by dress, 319
— indicated by dress in certain professions, 320
— not usually shown by dress, 319
Ramillies, battle of, 244
Red cap of liberty, 306
— not universal in the British Army, 308
— rag of chulos in the bull fight, 306
— ribbon of engaged girl, 306
— rose of Lancaster, 306
— shirt of the followers of Garibaldi, 306
— tie of platelayer, 306
Regimental badges, 245
Revers buttoned back, 38, 39
Reynolds, Mr. P. W., on the survival of a button, 248
— — — — — — — — forage cords, 241
Rhead, Mr., on the festal dress of Otaheite, 338
Richard II’s time, chaperon of, 157
Rifle Brigade, busby of, 242
— — cross belt of, 242
Ring, 195
— for nose of Hindu ayahs, 111
— in Ireland, bearing clasped hands, 116
— of Bishop Agilbert of Paris, 114
Rings, betrothal of Greeks, 115
— — — Romans, 115
— engagement, 114
— Egyptian, of blue pottery of faïence, 116
— Episcopal, 114
— finger, in Babylon, 114
— — — Egypt, 114
— for ears, 112
— gimmal, 115
— in which the stones stand for letters, 116
— sacred eye on, 117
— signet, 83, 85
— — in Egypt, 114
— — suspended from the neck, 116
— used as an insignia of rank by Romans, 115
— wedding, 114
— — worn by nuns, 204
— why worn on third finger, 115
Robe, parliamentary, of the King, 222
— coronation, eagles on, 222
Robes of companies, 138
— — a chancellor of a university, 210
— — borough councillors, 138
— — the Barons of the Exchequer, 218
— worn on State occasions, 137
Robinson, Commander, on naval uniforms, 252
Robley, General, collection of Maori heads, 277
Rochet, 199, 221
Roman betrothal rings, 115
— d’Alexandre, MS. of, 259
Romans cut their beards, 129
— did not wear trousers, 77
— shoes of open work of, 62, 63
— tunic of, 191
— use rings as insignia of rank, 115
Roses on Queen Victoria’s mantle, 222
— worn by Northumberland Fusiliers, 245
— — — soldiers on St. George’s day, 245
Roy and Adami, Professors, on the beneficial use of waist belts and stays, 332
Royalty, fashions arising from deformities of, 344
Rubies always fashionable, 123
Ruff, Elizabethan, of Toby, 253
— of Toby, 263
— worn by Punch, 262, 263
Ruffles, 227
Ruffs of Elizabeth’s reign, 48, 351
Russia, boots of bridegrooms removed by brides in, 177
Sackcloth as mourning, 181
Safety-pin, 101, 102, 103, 104, 118
Sailor suit, 162
Sailors, European, tattooing practised by, 277
— kilt of, 252
— petticoat breeches of, 252
— petticoat of, 252
— trousers, method of buttoning, 252
St. Clement on women covering their heads in church, 205, 207
— George, cross of, 158
— Gregory the Great, costume of, 188, 188
— John of Jerusalem, dress of Knights of, 321
— Lucia, 244
— Nicholas, dress of, 137
— — figure of, shows old dress, 267
— Patrick, hood of the Order of, 230
Sapphires always fashionable, 123
Saragossa, battle of, 243
Sashes meant to be used as slings, 241
— of officers, 249
— worn over the left shoulder by sergeants of the Twenty-Ninth Foot, 249
Satchel carried on a baldric, 106
Savage, the female—a Merveilleuse dress, 346
Savages, colour preferences of, 307
Saxons parted or trimmed their beards, 129
— wore trousers, 79, 79
Scapular of nuns, 202
Scaramouch, 254, 261
— a pantomimist, 286
Scarf, 191, 199
— on ladies’ hats, 149
— pin, 106, 118
Scarves, 192
Sceptre, 221, 304
School, Blue-coat, 167
— Bristol Red-Maids, 168
— Wells Grey-Maids, 168
Schools, Green-coat, 168
— Grey-coat, 168
Scotland, dress of heads of churches in, 200
Scottish Rifles, chaco of, 241
Scots Greys, 245
— — take their name from their horses, 303
— — Grenadier, caps of, 244
— Guards, 248
Seal of Solomon, 293
Serapis, crown of, 117
Serjeant-at-law, Lord Lindley, last, 217
— coif of, 216
— robes of, 218
— wig of, 215
Sergeants of Twenty-Ninth Foot wear sashes over their left shoulders, 249
Servant, clothing of master becomes that of, 5, 139
Servants’ dress, 139
Sex idea, 165
“Shabbies,” 268
Shamrock, 222
Shapka, 239
Shaving carried out with flint knives or pieces of shell, 127
— of heads by Egyptians, 128
— — — — East End Jewesses, 127
— — the whole head, 127
Shawl, 16
— as a head-dress, 61
— the ancestral, 15
— used as kilt by Danish chieftain, 72, 73
Shells as ornaments, 112
— cowry, on trappings of camels, 297, 299
— — — — — donkeys, 297
— — — — — Hussars, 297, 298
— — — — — mules, 297, 299
Shepherd, plaid of, 312
Shield, 83
— heart-shaped, derived from a double bird, 296
— of Black Prince, 87, 89
— — David, 293
Shirt front, origin of the, 44
— survival of the, as an outer garment, 288
Shoe made from a flat piece of hide, 65
— money in Bulgaria, 177
— of raw hide, 64, 64
Shoes, broad toed, of Henry VIII’s reign, 335
— gift of, by bridegroom to bride, 177
— high heels of, 335
— old, thrown at weddings, 176
— ornamentation of modern, 62
— part of wages, 177
— pieces of old, worn by Eskimos to ensure fruitfulness, 178
— removed from dead bodies to lay ghosts, 178
— with preposterously long toes, 350
— thrown over the heads of the O’Neils by the O’Cahans, 177
— — to ensure fruitfulness, 177
Shoulder knot, use of, 238
Siamese women wear trousers, 81; see Plate V, facing p. 81
Sicily, triskele in the coat-of-arms of, 119
Sign of the “Crooked Billet,” 146
Signs derived from Royal badges, 91
Silk, forbidden, 351
— stockings, 140, 141
Simkin, Mr. R., explanation of the flash, 133
Sisters, lay, 204
— Kilburn, 201, 202
— of Mercy, 201
Skeleton dress, Dutch, 145, 145
“Sketch, The,” on cockades, 158
Skirt, long, dangerous nowadays, 358
— — disseminates germs, 358
Skirts, short, a recognized feature of children’s costume, 163
— simple, of a Danish chieftainess, 73
— of lady gardeners damaged the plants, 358
Skull on head-dress of Hussars, 146
Skulls, bone inserted into prehistoric, 336
Sleeves, costume dated by, 210
— detachable, of nuns, 202
— hanging, 209, 209
— hanging, of a chancellor of Oxford University, 211
— slashed, prohibited, 350
— velvet, of a Proctor, 321
Sling jacket of the Hussars, 81, 239
Smock-frock, 18, 19
Socks, 66
Soldiers, armlets conferred on, 114
— boys dressed as, 163
— dress previous to the Restoration, 236
Solicitor of Guards, uniform of, 247
— — — cocked hat of, 247
Solomon, seal of, 293
Somersetshire Light Infantry, cavalry mess jacket of, 242
Soul remaining in shoes, 178
Spaniard, dress of the, 318
Spatterdashes, 70
Spencer, Herbert, on fashions, 343
Spire, Siamese head-dress compared with a votive, 50, 51
Sporran, 76, 77
Spur leathers, 235
Staff, cross, 195
— pastoral, 195
Star, 158
Statuette, bronze, of Punch, 258, 258
Statute cap of Elizabeth, 168
Stays, original intention of, 323
— Professors Roy and Adami on the beneficial use of, 332
— theory that they are derived from swaddling clothes, 332
Steen, Jan, bands of, 46, 46
Stick of camel driver survival of a sceptre, 304
Sticks, walking, 124
Stitching carried down the back of gloves, 97, 98
Stoat, 222
Stockings, 66, 195
— embroidered, 69, 69
— leather, worn by William Penn, 70
— of cloth, 68
— open work, 69, 69
— silk, 140, 141
— yellow, of blue-coat boys, 167
Stocks of leather, 200
Stole, 193, 221
Stoles of deacons, 192
Stone Age, ornaments of, 112
Stones, precious, fashions in, 123
— — supposed attributes of, 123
Straps, shoulder, 74, 75
Straw wisps on horses, 297
Streamers of sailor hat, 53, 53
— — Scotch cap, 53, 54
— on barristers’ gowns, 219
— — hats, 52, 52
— — head-dress of twelfth century, 53, 53
Strings, cap, 149
— on mitres, 54, 54
Stripe on trousers, vestige of a row of buttons, 81, 82
Stripes on sleeves of non-commissioned officers, 114
Stud, 118, 119
Suit, sailor, 162
Sumptuary laws, 349, 350, 351
— — a hindrance to trade, 351
— — usually a failure, 349
Sun-bonnet of barge women, 61; see Plate VIII, facing p. 150
Sun-bonnets of horses, 300
— — — market-garden women, 61
Surcoat, 83
— of Black Prince, 87, 89
— — Henry Duke of Lancaster, 86, 86
Surgeons of the Life Guards wear cocked hats, 247
Superstitions keep up fashions, 349
Surplice, 185, 195, 199
— academical hood worn by clergy on a, 212
— Mr. Macalister on the, 185
— slit in front in order to go over big wigs, 185
Survivals of trade costumes (butchers), 308
— supposed in naval dress, 252
Suspenders, 71
Surtout, 148
Swaddling clothes still used in the Holy Land, 333
— — theory that stays are derived from, 332
— — swallow-tail coat, evolution of, 33, 34
— tails at Harrow, 170
Swastika, 119, 122; see Plate VII, fig. F, facing p. 129, 311
— the forerunner of the cross, 311
Sword belt, not worn outside the coat, 26
— handle, opening for, in coat, 30
— in Court dress, 227
— ivory hilted, worn by Eleventh Hussars, 244
Tab on soldier’s coat, 29, 30
— — side of coat, 31, 32
Tabards of heralds, 83
Tags, metal, 100, 101
— ornamental, 101, 101
— useless on top boots, 66, 66
Tailor and Cutter, Editor of, on clothes and nationality, 317
Talismans, wearing of, by ancient Egyptians, 122
Talith, 205
Tannin preserves woven material, 18
Tapir, spotted when young, 94; see Frontispiece
Tartan, Cameron, 242
— wearing of, forbidden, 351
Tartans, Royal Stuart, 312
— of Scotch clans, 312
— dyes for, obtained from native plants, 313
— clans with several, 312
Tattooing, 13
— and mittens, 99
— destroys the effect of nakedness even in Europeans, 277
— effect of, produced by open-work stockings and blouses, 70
— of the Maoris, 277
— practised by early Egyptians, 277
— — — European sailors, 277
— — — modern sailors, 277
— — — Jews, 277
— — — practised by old inhabitants of this country, 277
— scar, as a means of recognition, 276
Tax on elegant dress, 350
Teeth blackened by Hindu women, 273
— — — Japanese women on marriage, 273
Thistle, hood of the Order of the, 230
Thistles, 222
Tie, white at, Eton, 169
Tierra del Fuegians, 11
Tights, 70
— of acrobats, 286
— a survival of Florentine hose, 286
— — knightly orders, 231
Tippet, 192, 212
Tippets of Doctors of Divinity, scarlet, 212
— for ministers who are not graduates, 199
Tobit, dog in the Book of, suggested by Toby, 267
Toby, Elizabethan ruff of, 253
— represented in China by a dragon, 267
— — — France by a cat, 267
— ruff of, 263
— suggests the dog in the book of Tobit, 267
Toga, 187
— replacement of, 192
— when worn, 187
Toledo, Fourth Council of, 192
Tonsure, 217
— of priests, 127
Topaz as a detector of poison, 124
“Toothpick” collar of dress coat, 43, 43
Top-coat, 149
Trades, characteristic dresses of, 320
Trajan, trousers shown on the column of, 78
Tramway drivers, buttons on back of the coats of, 30, 31
Treble, cockade, large, 152
Trencher, 47, 213, 214
Triangles, mystic interlaced, 293
Trimmings of judge’s gown, altered in colour by Lord Coleridge, 218
Triskele in the coat-of-arms of the Isle of Man, 119
— — — — — — — Sicily, 119
Trousers, bell-bottom, 347
— evolution of, 77
— method of buttoning bishops’, 252
— not worn by Romans, 77
— of labourers, method of buttoning, 252
— — sailors, method of buttoning, 252
— shown on Trajan’s column, 78
— worn by barbarians, 78, 78
— — — lady gardeners at Kew, 358
— — — Normans, 79
— — — Saxons, 79, 79
— — — women in Siam, 81; see Plate V, facing p. 81
— — — — — Persia, 81
— — in riding dress by ladies, 358
Trumpeters, State, uniform of, 242
Trumpington, Sir Richard de, brass of, showing chain mail, 234, 234
Trunk hose of clown, 269
— — of Knightly Orders, 231
Tudor dresses, shown by playing cards, 231
— flat cap, 214
Tunic, 16, 17, 17, 187
— developed from the shawl, 17, 18
Tunic, Egyptian, 16
— Greek, 16, 17
— of monks, 201
— sleeved, 17
— survival of the Anglo-Saxon, 288
Tunica alba, 189
Tunicle, 195, 221
Tunics, black, of farriers of Life Guards, 242
— of Anglo-Saxons compared with a shirt, 288
— — Lacedæmonian girls slit down the side, 346
Turban like the dome of a mosque, 50, 50
Turquoises always fashionable, 123
Twenty-Ninth Foot, sergeants of, wear sashes over their left shoulders, 249
Twain, Mark, 341
Tylor, Dr., on finger-rings, 114
— — — painting in war time by civilized races, 273
— — — the tendency to give up savage ornaments, 111
Underclothes, lack of, 360
Ulster, 149
Uniforms, naval, 251
— of Hussars, 272
— — Navy, date from 1767, 251
— — sergeant worn by extra drummer, 244
— military, regular adoption of, 235
— — solicitor of Guards, 247
— service, protectively coloured, 236
— gay, only used in times of peace, 236
Union Jack on King’s colours of Coldstream Guards, 246
Ushabti, models of servants put into Egyptian graves, 268
Veil of a bride, 175
— — novice, 202
— — nun, 202, 203
— — postulants, 202
Vergers, costume of, 218
Vermiform appendix, 3
Vestments, adoption of, by English High Church clergy, 192
— baptismal, 164
— ecclesiastical, 184
— of High Church clergy, coloured, adopted by, 305
— ornaments of, gradually acquired, 187
— prescribed by the first Prayer Book of Edward VI, 198
— prohibited by second Prayer Book of Edward VI, 199
— of Presbyterian clergy, professional, 185
— worn at the celebration of the Eucharist, 194
Vestige of a row of buttons, stripe on trousers, 81, 82
— — the coif from wig of a sergeant-at-law, 216, 217
Vestiges, buttons on postilions, 38
— of the fillet, 52, 52
— in the animal kingdom, 3
Vickery, Dr. Alice, on children’s dress, 165
Villiers-en-Couche, battle of, 244
Voice of Punch, 264
Vowesses, 183
Waist, wasp-like, 323
Wales’, Prince of, feathers a hereditary badge, 90
Waistbands, trade in discarded, in Paris, 348
Waistbelts, Professors Roy and Adami, on the beneficial use of, 332
Waistcoat, 148
Waiter, 144
Waiters, evening dress of, 144, 151
Wand of harlequin, 283
Warp, 16
— of hand loom, 117
Waterloo, battle of, 245
Watermen, badges of, 91
Wearing of talismans by ancient Egyptians, 122
Weddings, superstitions at, 176
Weights, leaden, used by women to flatten their chests, 338
Weeds, old meaning of the word, 182
— widows, 182
Weft of hand loom, 117
Wells, Blue schools at, 168
Welsh Fusiliers, flash of, 241
Westminster, coats at, 169
Whips, fashions in, 303
Whiskers, effect of bushy, 130
White as mourning, 182
— clothes of butterman, 320
— — — man cook, 320
Widows, costume of, 198
Wig of coachman, 142, 142
— of judge, 215, 216
— — — depression in, 215
— — doctor in the Punch and Judy show, 264
Wig-bag of Court dress, 227, 229
— remnant of, 133
— on liveries of servants, 134, 143
— of Lord Mayor’s coachman, 134, 143, 143
Wigs, barristers’, 132
— coachmen’s, 132
— imitating curly hair, 130
— footmen’s, 132
— judges, 132
— legal, 215
— of East End Jewesses, 127
— — Egyptians, 128
— — Parliamentary officials, 132
— — Serjeants-at-law, 215
— value of, 228
Wilhelmstahl, battle of, 244
William Rufus, hanging sleeves of the time of, 209
Wimple, 175, 203
— of Norman ladies, 202
— of the time of the Plantagenets, 202
Winchester scholars, bands of, 169
Wolfe, General, black worm worn as mourning for, 242
Women, Arab, 122
— — ideas of modesty, 207
— barge, apron of, 150; see Plate VIII, facing p. 150
— colour preferences of, 307
— covering their faces, 13, 206
— dress of, varies little, 16
— in church without hats, 13, 206
— — many places wear trousers, 357
— married, not to wear caps, 350
— milk, 150
— — yokes of, 110
— Padaung, metal collars of, 114; see Plate VI, facing p. 114
— rational dress for, 361
— riding astride, 359
— the first to wear clothes, 12
— Welsh and Italian, age rapidly, 329
Wood, Mr. Walter, on white jackets for soldiers, 243
Woodville, Mr. Caton, on aiguillettes, 240
Worm, black, of East Yorkshire regiment, 242
— — mourning for Sir John Moore, 242
— — of North Lancashire regiment, 242
— — of Somersetshire Light Infantry, 242
— — worn as mourning for General Wolfe, 242
— slow, third eye in, 3
Wristbands, 24
Yellow as mourning, 182
— a favourite colour of gipsies, 306
— mourning colour in Oriental countries, 307
— worn by mediæval Jews, 307
Yeomen of the Guard, badges of, 224, 224, 225
— — — — dress of, 223
— — — — duties of, 225
— — — — officers, dress of, 225
— — — — — of, wear the uniform used in the Peninsular War, 225
— — — — original uniform of, 225
Yoke, 109, 110
— of milk woman, 110
Yoxall, Mr., on wearing of yellow by Jews, 306
PRINTED BY WILLIAM BRENDON AND SON, LTD. PLYMOUTH
Transcriber’s note
Anchors for footnote 33 and 34 were added, after careful consideration where they should have been.
Some illustrations were slightly moved for reader convenience, but the bold numbers in the index, leading to the original pages, were not changed.
In the Index, errors in the alphabetical order were not corrected. Also in the Index, the item “Moseley” seemed to contain a footnote, which has been removed because it did not refer to anything. The original said: “see Plate X, fig. C1”.
A few punctuation errors have been corrected silently. Also the following corrections were made, on page 134 “Fusillers” changed to “Fusiliers” (Fig. 109) 145 “Sketon” changed to “Skeleton” (Dutch Skeleton Dress) 213 “carboard” changed to “cardboard” (made of cardboard covered with cloth) 221 “almostly” changed to “almost” (agree almost entirely with those) 263 “mop” changed to “mob” (Fig 154.), also in the List of Illustrations 278 “Markan” changed to “Marken” (the women of Marken, in Holland, may have) 289 “o” changed to “0” (8s. 0d.) 309 “deferentiate” changed to “differentiate” (serve to differentiate the sisters) 314 “promegranate” changed to “pomegranate” (the flowers of the pomegranate) 329 “had” changed to “hand” (On the other hand, the fact that) 369 “Abesses” changed to “Abbesses” (Abbesses, costume of) 388 “oy” changed to “by” (worn by Punch).
Otherwise the original has been preserved, including inconsistent spelling and hyphenation.