Front matter

GOLDSMITH MAID, WITH TRACK HARNESS.

THE HARNESS MAKERS’ ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

SECOND EDITION.

A PRACTICAL GUIDE BOOK FOR MANUFACTURERS AND MAKERS OF HARNESS, PADS, GIG SADDLES, ETC.,

CONTAINING

DIRECTIONS FOR SELECTING, CUTTING, AND PREPARING LEATHER; TABLES OF LENGTHS AND WIDTHS FOR CUTTING TRACK, SINGLE AND DOUBLE ROAD, COUPÉ, COACH, EXPRESS, TEAM AND FARM HARNESS, HALTERS, HORSE BOOTS, ETC.;

RECIPES FOR PREPARING BLACKINGS, STAINS, OILS, AND LEATHER VARNISHES;

HINTS ON RENOVATING AND REPAIRING HARNESS;

NOTES ON HARNESS MOUNTINGS, WITH DESCRIPTIONS AND ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE MOST POPULAR STYLES AND KINDS.

ADAPTED TO THE OFFICE AND THE WORKSHOP.

BY

W. N. FITZ-GERALD,

New York. 1880.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1880, By Wm. N. Fitz-Gerald, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

HARNESS LEATHER.

PAGE

The peculiar Characteristics of Leather—Test by which

the Quality may be determined—Effect of strong Acids in

Coloring—Impure Oils—Kinds of Harness Leather—Oak,

Hemlock, and Union Tanned; the Nature of each—Hides

suitable for making Harness Leather—Causes of “Gum,

Spew, or Fry”—The Effect of Dampness—Weights to be

selected for all Kinds of Harness—Grain Leather for Folds 21

CHAPTER II.

RUSSET LEATHER.

Selecting Rein Leather—Stains—Comparative Value of

good and poor Stock—Hand Part Leather—Graining in

the Workshop—Buff Leather—Loop Leather—The Necessity

of a Mellow Grain; uniform Thickness unimportant—Buying

Leather—Weight Stock—Unreliability of the rough

Brand—Backs—Cropping—Trimmed Stock 33

CHAPTER III.

PATENT LEATHER.

Glazed Leather—The Uses to which it is put—Quality of

Hides—Splits, how designated—The Effect of Splitting

upon the Grain—Varnishing, Drying, and Finishing—Enamel

Leather—Texture, Color, and Finish—Stretching Leather

injurious to the Fibre—Care of Patent Leather—When the

best Leather is made—July and August unfavorable months 40

CHAPTER IV.

CUTTING HARNESS.

How to cut to avoid Waste—Value of Scraps—The

Responsibility of the Cutter—Illustration of a Side of

Weight Stock—Directions for Cutting—Dividing the Side to

the best Advantage—Objections to the Splitting Machine—

Cutting a Harness from one Side—Illustration of a trimmed

Side—Weight—Details for Cutting the different Straps 45

CHAPTER V.

PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR THE FITTER.

Wetting the Stock—Drying—How long to soak—Testing

Strap—Trimming the Flesh Side—Applying Tallow—Straps

not to be disturbed until the Water has dried out—Cleaning

and Slicking—The Effect of recurrying—Blacking Leather

for a Single-Strap Harness—Wetting common Stock 53

CHAPTER VI.

MEASURING FOR HARNESS.

Lack of System—Result of improper Lengths—Length of Hame

Tugs—Lengths adopted by prominent Manufacturers—Harness

for Horses of different Sizes—Lengths governed by Localities 58

CHAPTER VII.

TABLES OF LENGTHS.

No. 1. Single-Strap Track Harness—No. 2. Single Road

Harness—No. 3. Single Harness (Breast Collar)—No. 4.

Single Harness (Hame Collar)—No. 5. Heavy Coupé Harness

—No. 6. Double Road Harness—No. 7. Short Tug Coach Harness

—No. 8. Long Tug Coach Harness—No. 9. English Four-in-Hand

—No. 10. Tandem—No. 11. Single Express—No. 12. Heavy Express

—No. 13. Long Tug Team Harness—No. 14. Long Tug Farm

Harness—No. 15. Wagon Harness with adjustable Trees—No. 16.

Adjustable Pad Double Harness—No. 17. Pennsylvania Wagon

Harness—No. 18. Stage Harness—No. 19. Bitting Harness—No.

20. Cart Harness—No. 21. Mule Harness—No. 22. Short Tug

Butt Chain Harness—Trimmings for Carriage Harness 64

CHAPTER VIII.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.

Result of Neglect in learning the Trade—Want of System—

Importance of the Fitter and Stitcher working in Unison—

Wetting the Stock—Skiving and slicking the Straps—Fitting

up the Shaft Tugs, Docks, and Winker Brace—Finishing the

Edges—Prepared Tallow—Gum Tragacanth—Cutting and preparing

the Patent Leather—Finishing up Rounds—Making Docks—

Importance of good Patterns—How to prepare the Patterns 112

CHAPTER IX.

MAKING SINGLE-STRAP TRACK HARNESS.

Its Origin—Skill required in making up—How to attain the

best Results—Steer Hides the best—Weight of Side required

—Sectional Drawings—Safety Strap—Half Kemble Jackson check 122

CHAPTER X.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS.

Mistaken Ideas regarding Team Harness—Selecting Stock—

Weights to be used—General Directions for cutting and fitting

—Pads—Filling Folds—Bridles, the Importance of proper

Proportions—Lines, Lengths—Mountings, the Importance

of Strength—Stitching to be done with white Thread—Coarse

stitching the strongest—Fitting and stitching Traces—Final

Finish—Heavy ornamental Truck Harness—Bridles, Coach

Style—Wheel Harness without Pads—Traces and Safes, how

cut—Lead Harness—Loin Straps—Mountings—Collars 128

CHAPTER XI.

MAKING GIG SADDLES.

Cleaning and treeing up the Tree—Preparing the Seat

Leather—Preparing the Frame—Making Jockeys—Flopping

off—Making Loops—Cutting and fitting Points—Back

Bands—Quality of Leather—Making the Pads—Stuffing—

Materials used—Changing Shape of Patterns 139

CHAPTER XII.

PADS FOR COACH AND TEAM HARNESS.

Improvements—Patent Pads—Directions for making Coach

Pads—Socket Piece, how to cut—Fitting up—Cutting

Felt for the Pad—Stitching, etc—Hair-stuffed Pads—

Directions for making—Soft Pad illustrated—Cutting Tops

and Sides—Hard Pad, Directions for making—Illustrated—

Plain Pads, Directions for making 149

CHAPTER XIII.

MAKING HARNESS LOOPS.

Kinds of Loops in use—Patent Loops, how made—Advantages

of hand made Loops—Selecting Stock—Wetting the Leather

—Fullness necessary—Creasing—Back Clamp Iron—Working

up Sides before creasing—Coloring and finishing—Pressed Loops,

stitching on—How they are made—Time needed to press—Variety

of Patterns—How cheap Harness are improved by their use 161

CHAPTER XIV.

STITCHING HARNESS.

The End to be attained—Thread, Size and Number of Strands

—White Thread the strongest—Making up the Thread—Waxing

before twisting—The Kind of Wax for specific Purposes—

Importance of Care in Stitching—How the Stitches are laid

—Irregularity produced by not drawing the Threads evenly

—To cause both Sides to appear alike—Points to be observed 168

CHAPTER XV.

MAKING ROUND REINS.

Good Stock a Necessity—Directions for Cutting—Dampening

the Leather—Making the Stop—Marking off for the Billet—

Filling up and rounding—Board Iron, how made—Rounding and

trimming—Stain, how made—Advantage of using Shellac—

Rein Ends, illustrated 175

CHAPTER XVI.

COACH AND WAGON BRIDLES.

The most ornate Part of the Harness—Winkers, Style and

Finish—“Hinging”—English Coach Bridle Cuttings—

Illustrations of various Styles of Bridles—Crown Pieces 182

CHAPTER XVII.

RIDING BRIDLES.

Uniformity of Style—How they are named—Cuttings for various

Kinds—Illustration—Leather used—English Russet—Buff

Leather—Stitching not used for ornamenting 196

CHAPTER XVIII.

HALTERS.

The Varieties—United States Government Halter—Spanish

Halter—French Halter—Training Halter—Bitting Halter

—Stable Halter—Yankee Halter—Double Cheek Halter—

Slip Halter—Team Halter—Cuttings and Illustrations 205

CHAPTER XIX.

HORSE BOOTS.

Success in making Knee, Shin, Ankle, and Combination Boots

—Directions for making—Illustrations for Weights—How made

—Illustrations 224

CHAPTER XX.

HARNESS MOUNTINGS.

Classes and Styles—Plated, close and electro—Grades of Silver

for Close Plate—How to determine the Quality—Electro Plate

less durable, but cheaper—Tarnishing not an Evidence of Impurity

—Gold Plate—Nickel—Its Color and Advantages—Brass not popular

—Oroide, its Color—Not desirable except as a Base for Gilding

—Aluminum the most expensive Metal—German Silver, its

superiority as a white Metal—Covered Mountings—Leather and

Composition—Leather used—Liability to rip—Improvements made

—Rubber-covered—When patented—Description of Process of

Manufacture—Celluloid-covered—Description of Manufacture—

Tinned—XC Plate—Japanned—Patented Styles—Illustrations of

Terrets, Hooks, etc. 249

CHAPTER XXI.

BUCKLES.

Patent Trace—Harness—Trace—Collar—Center Bar—Popular

Styles—Illustrations 271

CHAPTER XXII.

BITS AND BITTING HARNESS.

Brutal Devices—Popular Styles—Snaffle—Dexter—Hanoverian—

Half Cheek Trotting Snaffle—Metals used—Steel not desirable

—Unreliability of Malleable Iron—System of numbering—How

designated—Illustrations—Bitting Harness—Wooden Jockey,

illustrated—Patent Jockey, illustrated 281

CHAPTER XXIII.

REPAIRING HARNESS.

As important as making new Stock—False Directions—Cleaning

the Leather an important Consideration—When to repair—

Cleaning the Surface before oiling—How to soften old Leather

—Pure Neat’s-foot Oil the best—Castor Oil, its qualities—

Tallow the only reliable Grease—How to apply Grease—Gum,

how to remove it—Patent Leather—Varnish only will restore

the Lustre—How to clean 290

CHAPTER XXIV.

CARE OF HARNESS IN THE FACTORY AND STABLE.

Durability dependent upon Treatment—Consumers not acquainted

with the Peculiarities of Stock—The great Destroyer—Care of

Harness in Stock—White Mold—Importance of removing it

immediately—Cleaning Mountings—Pegs for hanging Harness—

Daub, how made—How to keep Russet Strapping—The Manufacturer’s

duty to his Customers—Directions for the Care of Harness in

the Stable—Mountings not to be scoured—How to clean 296

CHAPTER XXV.

LEATHER BLACKING.

Stains, Varnishes, and Polishes 302

CHAPTER XXVI.

RECIPES.

Miscellaneous Recipes for the Workshop and Harness Room 317

INDEX OF PLATES.

Goldsmith Maid, Track Harness Frontispiece.

PAGE

Double Road Harness 20

Coupé Harness 33

Phaeton Harness 53

Coach Harness 61

Breast Collar, Single Harness 113

Hame Collar, Single Harness 122

Team Harness 129

Heavy Draft Harness 137

Georgia Wagon Harness 161

PREFACE.

This book originated from a desire to furnish harness makers with a condensed practical guide suited to the workshop, office, salesroom, and stable. It treats of leather as furnished to the harness maker by the currier, its texture, strength, adaptability for specific uses; how to cut, fit, and finish; measuring for harness; complete tables for lengths and widths for cutting the various classes in use, whether for the carriage, farm, or road; bridles, halters, horse boots, mountings, bits, etc.

The illustrations represent standard styles and kinds of articles used by the trade, and guides for making up.

In the hints on repairing and caring for harness, a large amount of information is furnished the manufacturer and consumer, in a condensed form. The recipes for blacks, stains, varnishes, polishes, etc., have been tested and found reliable; the whole making a methodical manual indispensable to the progressive harness maker, and useful to every horse owner or other person interested in harness or saddlery. It is the only book of the kind published in the English language, and supplies a much-needed want. Every care has been taken to present the subjects treated on in the plainest manner, and to avoid errors. The author confidently believes that benefit will result from following the instructions given, and the standard of harness making be elevated. Should this anticipation be realized, the time spent in its preparation will be compensated for.

INTRODUCTION.

The manufacture of saddlery and harness, exclusive of all collateral branches, stands thirty-fourth in magnitude out of the two hundred and fifty-eight specified industries tabulated in the census report of 1870. At that time there were in the United States 7,607 saddlery and harness establishments, giving employment to 23,557 workmen; all but 841 were males above 16 years of age; employing a capital of $13,935,961; paying in wages $7,046,207; for materials, $16,068,310; and producing goods to the value of $32,709,981. Missouri stands first in the list in value of products, but fifth in the number of workmen employed, and second in the wages paid. New-York stands second in value of products, first in every other particular. Pennsylvania, Ohio, Illinois, and New-Jersey are next in order.

By the total figures it will be seen that the average wages of the workmen is about $299 a year, being $78 below the average for the whole country in 1870, and $10 above the average of 1860.

There are but eleven branches of industry in which the number of establishments exceeds those of saddlery and harness, and in view of this fact, the average rate of wages is remarkably good. The harness maker is called upon to supply harness, saddlery, etc., for 7,145,370 horses, 1,125,415 mules and asses, a total of 8,270,785 animals; yet the total value of products of a year show but $4 a head for each animal—a figure disproportionately small, and one which explains, in part at least, why the trade is less prosperous than it should be. Were it a business which required the investment of a large capital, the case would be different; but as it is, the investment of a few hundred dollars enables a man to engage in a small business which returns him a moderate living, but one that might be lucrative if conducted in a proper manner. The harness maker supplies an article of absolute necessity, and there is no excuse for his placing his prices below fair business rates. If each man in the business would properly estimate the cost of every article, and add thereto a fair percentage of profit, there would be less complaints as to the unprofitableness of the harness trade. In preparing this manual the author has aimed to give information of a practical character to the trade, which will enable those engaged in it to conduct the workshop in a systematic manner. If this end is accomplished, it will be one important step toward making the business a profitable and pleasant one.

DOUBLE ROAD HARNESS.

THE HARNESS MAKERS’ ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.