FOREWORD

Upwards of ten years ago I sat on the south rim of the Grand Canyon and wrote "In and Around the Grand Canyon." In that book I included much that more than a decade of wandering up and down the trails of this great abyss had taught me. At that time the only accommodations for sightseers were stage lines or private conveyance from Flagstaff and Ash Fork, and, on arrival at the Canyon, the crude hotel-camps at Hance's, Grand View, Bright Angel, and Bass's. The railway north from Williams was being built. Everything was crude and primitive.

Now the railway is completed and has become an integral part of the great Santa Fe System, with at least two trains a day each way carrying Pullman sleepers, chair cars and coaches. At Bright Angel, where the railway deposits its passengers at the rim of the Canyon, stands El Tovar Hotel, erected by the railway company at a cost of over a quarter of a million dollars, which is equipped and conducted by Fred Harvey. Yet El Tovar is more like a country club than a hotel, in many respects, and, to that extent, is better.

Hence while nothing in the canyon itself has changed, and while my book, "In and Around the Grand Canyon," is still as helpful to the traveler and general reader as ever, there has been a growing demand for a new book which should give the information needed by the traveler who comes under the new conditions, telling him how he may best avail himself of them. This book is written to meet this demand. It therefore partakes more of the character of a guide book than the former volume, so it has been decided to make it lighter in weight and handier in form, so that it can be slipped into the pocket or handbag, and thus used on the spot by those who wish a ready reference handbook.

Used in connection with the earlier volume or alone for it is complete in itself in all its details—it cannot fail to give a clearer and fuller comprehension of this "Waterway of the Gods,"—the most incomparable piece of rugged scenery in the known world.

George Wharton James El Tovar, Grand Canyon, September, 1909.

CONTENTS

FOREWORD

I. THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA

II. ON THE GRAND CANYON RAILWAY TO EL TOVAR

III. EL TOVAR AND ITS EQUIPMENTS

IV. THE GRAND CANYON AT EL TOVAR

V. THREE WAYS OF SPENDING ONE DAY AT THE CANYON

VI. HOW TO SPEND TWO TO FIVE DAYS AT EL TOVAR

VII. HOW FULLY TO SEE AND KNOW THE GRAND CANYON REGION

VIII. FROM EL TOVAR DOWN THE BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL

IX. TO GRAND VIEW AND DOWN THE GRAND VIEW TRAIL

X. A NEW "RIM" ROAD AND TRAIL INTO THE SCENIC HEART OF THE CANYON

XI. FROM EL TOVAR TO BASS CAMP AND DOWN THE BASS TRAIL

XII. ACROSS THE GRAND CANYON TO POINT SUBLIME

XIII. HOW THE CANYON WAS FORMED

XIV. THE CANYON—ABOVE AND BELOW

XV. THE HOPI HOUSE

XVI. VISITING INDIANS AT EL TOVAR

XVII. THE NAVAHO AND HOPI BLANKET WEAVERS

XVIII. PUEBLO AND NAVAHO POTTERY AND SILVERWARE

XIX. THE HOPIS AND THEIR SNARE DANCE

XX. AN HISTORIC TRAIL ACROSS THE GRAND CANYON COUNTRY

XXI. THE NAVAHO AND HIS DESERT HOME

XXII. FROM EL TOVAR TO THE HAVASUPAI INDIANS AND THEIR WONDERFUL CATARACT CANYON HOMES

XXIII. THE FIRST DISCOVERERS AND INHABITANTS OF THE GRAND CANYON

XXIV. EL TOVAR AND CARDENAS AND THE MODERN DISCOVERY OF THE GRAND CANYON

XXV. FRAY MARCOS AND GARCES, AND THEIR CONNECTION WITH THE GRAND CANYON

XXVI. POWELL'S AND OTHER EXPLORATIONS OF THE GRAND CANYON

XXVII. INDIAN LEGENDS ABOUT THE GRAND CANYON

XXVIII. THE COLORADO RIVER FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA

XXIX. CLIMATE AND WEATHER AT THE GRAND CANYON

XXX. THE GRAND CANYON FOR PLEASURE, REST AND RECUPERATION

XXXI. THE STORY OF A BOAT

XXXII. THE GRAND CANYON A FOREST RESERVE, GAME PRESERVE AND NATIONAL MONUMENT