Volume 1 — THE EAST INDIA VADE-MECUM. (continued 5)

The mater is generally at little expence for provisions; he being the only servant that may, according to his tenets, partake of what has been served up at the table of any person, whether European, or native, not of his own sect. In this, the matranny, or female sweeper, whose duties are exactly the same, but usually confined to the women’s apartments, must be included. The latter is, however, in general far more sober, cleanly, and dainty, than the male sweeper. In such a climate, it is of the highest importance that all filth should be speedily removed: therefore it is established as a custom, that the privy should be cleansed so soon as soiled: the mater attending for that purpose, with his jarroo, and a tickra, or piece of broken earthen-ware, into which he sweeps away the ordure. This operation is facilitated by a slight layer of grass placed below the seat, which is usually of masonry. Wooden seats are highly objectionable; both on account of being subject to collect filth, and because they harbour centipedes, scorpions, &c. Many very ludicrous accidents used to happen, some thirty years back, before a reform was made in the construction of these conveniences; which are now on an admirable plan.

When a dog is kept, and that there is not 280occasion for retaining a professed dooreah, or dog-keeper, the mater is always expected to dress its victuals, and to supply it with such refuse from the table, as he may not deem worthy his own acceptance.

The Dooreah, though properly an out-door servant, residing at the dooreah-konnah, or kennel, occasionally officiates as mater, performing all the duties of that menial; but this is rarely done with good will; dooreahs, though of a cast held equally in abomination with the ordinary sweeper, by persons of a different persuasion, invariably considering themselves to be far superior thereto. Although confined to one occupation, in general, a dooreah can have very little knowledge of its duties, beyond the mere mechanical routine of dressing a little rice, and meat, for the dogs, and taking them out for an airing. He is usually provided with a short whip, consisting of a thong, or two, of raw hide, fastened to a piece of small bamboo; with this he corrects the animals under his charge, the number of which necessarily varies according to their size.

Thus, a brace of greyhounds, or, at the most, a leash, are considered as many as a dooreah should lead out; while of small dogs, it is common to see him surrounded by seven or eight. Each dog has a collar, to which a strong 281metal ring is sewed very firmly: this serves to fasten a piece of stout cord, the other end of which is looped, so as to pass over the dooreah’s hand, and to sit round his wrist; in general, the whole are led by the left hand, the right exercising the whip. The dress of this servant mostly resembles that of the mosaulchy: their pay is also much on a par.

The manner of preparing victuals for dogs is simple: the dooreah, being provided with a large earthen pot, proportioned to the quantity of provision to be boiled, puts in the meat, cut very small, the rice, some turmeric reduced to a pulp, some ghee, or granulated butter, some salt, and abundance of water. The pot is placed on a choolah, or stove, and its contents are stirred until they are sufficiently boiled, when they are taken out; the water being first drained off into a vessel, and the more solid contents spread upon a mat to cool. Each dog is led out to separate picket, always in the ground for that purpose, and there tied; so that he cannot quarrel with his neighbours. A parcel of old earthen vessels, every where abounding, are collected for the purpose of receiving each dog’s mess: the meat and rice are first allotted among them, according to bulk, and the gravy afterwards added. Each then receives his portion; though not without exhibiting, both by vociferation and greediness, how eager he is to obtain his meal. 282In this manner, dogs are usually fed night and morning.

The business of a Kalashy is, properly speaking, confined either to what relates to camp-equipage, or to the management of the sails, and rigging, on board a budjrow. In the former instance, he is expected to understand how to set up tents of every description; to pack, and unpack; to load and unload: to make tent-pins; to sew the taut (or canvas bags,) in which each part of a tent is generally enclosed, when on the elephant, camel, bullock, or cart, by which it is conveyed; to handle a phourah, or mattock, to level the interior; and, in short, to compleat the whole preparation, within and without.

Many kalashies are extremely expert in all the foregoing duties, and are, besides, excellent domestics; not hesitating to perform a variety of services about a house, such as swinging the punkah, (or great fan,) suspended in most dining halls, rattaning the bottoms of chairs, helping to arrange, and to clear, furniture, and doing, besides, the duties of hirkarahs, or peons. This general assemblage of useful talents, no doubt, renders the kalashy a most useful servant; hence, more are retained at this time, than were formerly employed.

As a public servant, whether attached to the train of artillery, or to a quarter-master’s establishment, his merits are equally conspicuous: 283in the former he is enrolled in some company, in which rank may be obtained by a due continuance of good conduct. Though in a private capacity he rarely receives more than five rupees, he may, in the latter instance, consider his average pay at six rupees; which, with the chance of promotion to the several ranks of cossob, tindal, and serang, with consequent encrease of wages at each gradation, is considered a very respectable situation. His duty in the above instance, is, however, by no means trifling: during the whole day he is employed, generally in the arsenal, or the store room, or the artillery shed; or, eventually, in drawing timbers, cannon, &c. on transport carriages; mounting, or dismounting great guns, cleaning arms, working in the laboratory, piling, or serving out, shot; with a million of et ceteras in the various branches of that department. Whether attached to the train, or serving with a regiment of infantry, or cavalry, the kalashy, (or, as he is often termed while in the public service, the lascar) must be adroit in whatever relates to camp-equipage, making up ammunition of all kinds, sorting stores, packing, loading, serving, and drawing field-pieces, limbering, yoking the cattle, marking out lines for a camp; and, in short, whatever relates either to the ordnance, or to the quarter-master’s duties. All appertaining to these branches, are cloathed in woollens of English manufacture: 284those in the artillery wearing blue jackets with red trimmings, and such as appertain to regiments of cavalry, or of infantry, being served with such colors as may assimilate with the dress of the corps respectively: unless when a quantity of any particular color is on hand in the Company’s stores; in which case, it is disposed of by varying the dress of regimental lascars, pro tempore, as far as it will go.

The whole of the kalashies wear blue turbans, of rather a flat form, having on their edges a red tape, about three fourths of an inch in breadth; which greatly relieves the sombre appearance of their jackets.

The kalashies on board budjrows, which are generally of the pinnace, or keeled, kind, may be placed, nearly on a footing with those retained by individuals; allowing for a certain imitation of the public servant, and a smattering in what relates to the management of sails. This class is by no means numerous, being confined entirely to the aquatic equipages of great men: one of this description is by no means flattered when directed to handle an oar on board the budjrow, though he prides himself in rowing a jolly-boat furnished with oars on the European plan.

The Manjy, Goleeah, and Dandy, are the steers-man, bow-man, and common rower in a boat, respectively. Where a gentleman keeps a boat, he must always retain the two first, and, 285if in constant employ, the last also; or he may generally, by previous notice, obtain a crew of teeka-dandies, that is, job-watermen, at any of the ghauts, or wharfs, along the river. The manjy is usually paid from five to seven rupees per mensem; the goleeah from four to five; and the dandy from two and a half to three and a half, or even four; all according to the kind of boat, and the dignity of the employer. There is no established dress for either of the above classes; though the manjy will, in general, be found to adopt a mixed costume, between the kalashy and the mosaulchy. His business is to steer, and to give directions regarding the several operations incident to the very numerous metamorphoses of circumstances in rivers perpetually changing their direction: thus, it is by no means uncommon to see a budjrow hoist, and lower, her sails, take to her oars, or to the track-rope, some scores of times during the course of a day’s progress; just as the localities may render necessary. Whatever authority may be vested in a manjy, it is rare to see one able to enforce his orders: each of the crew has an opinion of his own; and, knowing that his services cannot be dispensed with, will, in most cases, adhere to his way of thinking, until peremptorily compelled by the master’s interference, to submit to orders; or overcome by absolute force.

286The Goleeah has particular charge of the bow, where he either rows the foremost oar, or, when necessary, keeps the boat from running against the bank, or upon shoals, by means of a luggy, or bamboo pole, probably thirty feet, or more, in length; first casting it out in the proper direction, and then lapping it round several times with the end of a strong tail-strap, fastened to a ring on the forecastle; so as to prevent the pole from returning.

Those who have not witnessed the dexterity of this class of people, and the rapidity with which they recover their poles, so as to make repeated resistances in dangerous situations, can form no idea of the strength, activity, and judgment, necessary to qualify a man for this arduous situation. Often the fate of a boat depends on the certainty of the goleeh’s throw; especially under a cutchar, or sand bank, perhaps twenty feet, or more, in height, under which a strong current cuts away the foundation, occasioning immense bodies of the soil to fall in, attended by a noise competiting with thunder. One of these falling upon a boat, could not fail to sink her; as experience has too frequently proved. The very swell occasioned by the fall of such ponderous and bulky rubbish, amounting perhaps to fifty or sixty loads, is sufficient to sink the smaller class of vessels. Fortunately, the cutchars, in general, subside, as it were, perpendicularly; without 287casting outwards; otherwise, no vessels could navigate the Ganges, or the other great rivers, at certain seasons; especially during the early winter months, when the cutchars are high, and the current rather strong.

The Dandy certainly leads as hard a life as any scavenger’s cart-horse; and really I know not what more picturesque instance can be given of his consummate drudgery! Imagine the effects, even upon the most hardy constitution, of exposure to all weathers; at one moment under a burning sun, or numbed by a cold northerly blast; by turns on board, or at the track rope; moving at a slow pace against a rapid current; and wading, without the smallest hesitation, through a million of puddles, often up to the neck, or even obliged to swim: the footing perhaps rugged, or along a heavy sand, or a deep mud; and the path lying through briars, bordering steep precipices! All this the dandy undergoes for the small wages before specified; rarely equal to three-pence daily! It is true, he has some reliance on the produce of the fields he passes through, appropriating it, together with fire wood, and, occasionally, some stray poultry, or a kid, to the participation of his companions. Nor do this class, which consists promiscuously of Hindus and Mussulmans, act very fastidiously as to the means of obtaining their cloathing: they are, indeed, perfectly divested of those prejudices entertained 288by our judges, and law officers, respecting the iniquity of purloining whatever may offer itself to their acceptance: far otherwise; all is fish that comes to their net. Knowing such to be the invariable disposition of dandies, the European must blame himself, should his valuables be missing in consequence of an ill-placed confidence, or of neglect in regard to securing his property, so far as may be practicable. Hence, it is advisable never to allow any one of the crew to enter the cabin of a budjrow, under any pretext, unless attended by a servant; who must direct his whole attention to the prevention of theft. Most boats are baled by means of a skuttle in the cabin: this affords a very reasonable plea for entrance; but too much caution cannot be used, when that operation may be necessary; which may be from two, to fifty, times within the twenty-four hours; accordingly as the hirer may be in luck regarding the soundness of his vessel’s bottom.

As to describing a dandy’s dress, that is scarcely practicable; but a tolerable outline was given when treating of the passage from the ship at Kedgeree to the presidency: the perpetual changes from hot to cold, and from wet to dry, (for each dandy reserves a dry clout, to put on when he returns on board,) must, one would think, at all events, keep the poor wretches something like clean, and free from vermin. 289Such, however, is not the case; for what with ring-worms, itch, and a certain loathsome, and infectious disease, added to an inexhaustible stock of body-creepers, no mortal can well be more disgusting than a Bengal dandy. It would be injustice to class them all under one general anathema; there being, doubtless, some among them who are tolerably clean in their persons; but such most assuredly form a very disproportionate minority!

The Berriarah, or Gurrearah, is a person who, according to the general custom of the country, devotes his life to tending sheep and goats; and, in most situations beyond the metropolis, obtains a place among the usual servants attendant upon the out-door concerns of a family. This is not owing to the scarcity of meat, but to its bad quality; there being plenty of sheep in India, which, however, are rarely slaughtered for table expenditure, even by the natives; who very justly consider it to be an unclean animal, feeding on all kinds of filth. This occasions them to prefer the meat of a castrated goat, commonly denominated kussy, which is certainly not to be despised; though its taste is somewhat strong, and the meat itself rather coarse, and dark colored: but it abounds with fat, and is very juicy. Be it good, or bad, prejudice has proscribed it from the tables of persons in respectable stations, or in easy circumstances; 290a joint of bazar mutton, that is, such as the butchers sell in the market, being considered no treat, and proving extremely obnoxious to the generality of delicate persons: though I have frequently seen them partake of a joint of kussy, when palmed upon them as home-fed wether, in such style as led me to believe, that the imagination was a principal agent in condemning the unfortunate goat-mutton. I do not mean to deny, that a certain difference exists; but, when the former could not be had, I rarely failed to make an excellent meal off the latter; while some of my more fastidious friends have been grievously disappointed of their dinners.

Sheep may, in a few instances, be purchased in tolerable good condition, especially during the hot season, when they nibble the short stems, and even the roots of the finer grasses; yet it must not be expected that any, which may be procurable in the villages, should cut up well: they are usually mere skeletons; and if they have any fat it is of a bad color. This compels gentlemen to keep small flocks, perhaps from thirty to sixty, according to the average of expenditure; which, among officers in the army, may amount to one sheep in every fifteen, or twenty days: observing, that the meat is seldom good, nor the animal comparatively the better for his keep, until it may have been put up for 291about three or four months. The most approved mode of fatting sheep, is to have about a dozen on full feed; allowing as much gram as they can well eat; say about two pounds daily for each: another dozen should be upon half feed; having an allowance of very fine chaff to complete their diet; or perhaps some cut grass, the same as is brought in for horses. All these twenty-four sheep should be confined in an area, enclosed either by mud walls, or by railings of a suitable height; taking care to allow them access to sweet water, and to have a small quantity of salt in a flat vessel, accessible to them at pleasure. In this manner they will fatten admirably in the course of six or seven months; their flesh becoming fine grained, juicy, and high flavored.

Besides the above number, about as many more should be kept on a small allowance of gram; allowing them to graze, in company with half a dozen milch goats and their kids, under charge of the berriarah, in some place remote from any camp or town; so as to insure their feeding clean. This precaution may seem unnecessary, but is certainly proper; for all sheep, especially those of India, are particularly partial to certain excrements, abounding in a country where the goddess is worshipped on the plains: the borders of tanks being particularly the resort of all descriptions of persons, when pressed 292to pay their devoirs to the deity. The dress of the berriarah is usually similar to that of the cooly; with this addition, that, on account of the oppressive heats at one season; the heavy falls of rain at another; and the sharp cold during three months; he has constant recourse to a substantial blanket, generally black: that being the ordinary color of the sheep. In the hot season, the blanket serves to repel the heat; during the rains, to keep him dry; and in the winter, to keep him warm. As any cross folds, or pleats, would infallibly rather retain, than cast off, the rain, these people have recourse to a most effectual mode of managing the blanket; tying it together in a very regular manner, after puckering the longest side, and placing that part over their heads. Whatever portion of moisture may lodge within the short pleats above the tie, cannot sink downwards, if the ligature be properly made; while all the pleats below it, being in a perpendicular direction, serve as channels to carry the water downwards. In fact, the blanket becomes a bell-tent, of which the inhabitant is himself the pole. The wages of the shepherd are usually about three and a half, or four rupees monthly; but some gentlemen regulate them by the number of sheep maintained: this by no means answers their expectations; for if the number be great, one or two deficiencies, imputed to the wolves, are rarely noticed; 293and if the flock be small, the only chance a shepherd has, is to make away with a fat sheep, now and then. No sheep can be fatted, taking all things into consideration, under four rupees, equal to about ten shillings, including the price given; which of late years has risen to about a rupee per head, for such as have six teeth: all below that age are generally rejected, because their food goes more towards their growth, than to their flesh; which is seldom of a good color, but retains a certain light hue, like very young beef, until the second year be passed.

The wool of the Bengal sheep is by no means valuable, as an article of commerce; it being coarse and lank, more resembling dog’s hair than a fleece. The natives manufacture a good deal of it into puttoos; which may be made in any form, being nothing more than a very heavy close kind of felt, which, when well made, stands proof against the severest weather. The usual shape of these puttoos is nearly conical, and more resembles a bell-tent, than any thing now occurring to my memory; the generality are made with a border, rudely worked, of some color strongly contrasting with the body of the cloak: thus, a black puttoo would have a white pattern, another white puttoo a black pattern. This manufacture is extremely simple, and performed by means of a kind of carding machine 294that entangles the wool; which is previously mixed in a very strong lather of soap.

I have already stated, that the average price of a sheep fit for fatting, is about a rupee; but that price has only existed for about twenty years. Before that date, the common value of a coarge (or score) was from six to eight rupees; and I recollect, about twenty-nine years back, when marching from Berhampore to Cawnpore, with a detachment of European recruits, seeing several coarges bought for their use, by the contractor’s sircar, at three, and three and a half rupees! at the latter rate six sheep were purchased for a rupee; which, in British currency, would be five-pence each!

It is true, the sheep were not fat; far from it; being driven into the camp from the flocks grazing in the adjacent plains, and, in general, taken without much selection. They were the only animal food we could at times get; for the Hindus would never sell us an ox, knowing it was intended for slaughter. Notwithstanding the very low rate at which the sheep were purchased, many proved dear bargains. Some had their livers in such a dreadful state as disgusted every spectator, and caused an insuperable objection against the meat: fluke-worms crawled about in hundreds; while, of many, the stomachs, as well as the intestines, were completely lined with bots, which stood as close as they 295could stow, keeping each other parallel, like pins on a cushion! Strange to say, some few of which the entrails were thus preyed upon, seemed as though they would have thriven, provided they had been turned into a good pasture.

The Chokey-dar, or watchman, is a very different sort of being from such as guard the British metropolis. In India, no man dare undertake this office, unless he be a professed thief, or in league with the local chief of all the thieves of the district. Were any person of a contrary description to assume the protection of a house, &c. he would be outwitted, and, in all probability be implicated; or he would lose his life in the Quixotic attempt! This may give but an unfavorable idea of the police; but, on examination, it will be found by no means so injurious to the interests of the public, as persons ignorant of the fact, and of its derivation, might suppose. Thieving is there put on a par with other speculations; it becomes a monopoly, the invasion of which carries with it the most fatal effects.

To explain this, I must state, that, in the vicinity of all great towns, there will be found some person of apparent respectability, whose word indeed passes with the same validity as other mens’ bonds; and who is considered the chief of the chokey-dars, or watchmen; of 296which he will furnish one, or two, perhaps three, according to the extent, and situation, of the premises to be guarded.

For each person thus supplied, four rupees are paid monthly to the individual employed; the head-man being responsible for whatever losses may be occasioned by professed robbers. The chokey-dar attends during the day, often performing many little offices, in the most willing and effective manner; at night parading about with his spear, shield, and sword, and assuming a most terrific aspect, until all the family are asleep; when—HE GOES TO SLEEP TOO!!!

Thus the matter is compromised; the gang receive a tribute, and the gentleman is insured from nocturnal depredation: though, by way of deception, slight feints are now and then made, in order to keep up the system of terror, and to uphold the chokey-dar’s vigilance. I am sensible, that instances may be adduced of houses being plundered, and of the chokey-dars being cut to pieces. These, however, do not confute the well known fact I have above delivered; on examination it will always appear, that such robberies were committed either by some gang from another quarter, or where the premises were in charge of military guards.

So audacious are the thieves in India, that they have been known to come into a cantonment 297with lighted mosauls, in imitation of a marriage procession, or of a religious ceremony, and thus to attack a treasury where a strong guard was posted. They likewise crawl about in dark nights, so as to be mistaken for dogs, or other small animals; thus gradually lulling the vigilance of a sentry, and making their way good to the interior. On such occasions their bodies are usually well oiled, thereby rendering it impossible to retain a hold; which is, in most cases, prevented by a small sharp knife, always carried in a girdle by these insinuating rogues: that girdle consists only of a stout piece of twine carried round the waist, supporting a lungooty, or clout, passing between the legs, and as narrow as an exception from absolute nudity can possibly admit.

When travelling through any part of the Company’s territories, it is proper to require chokey-dars from such villages as may be in the vicinity of the encampment: on failure of this precaution, robbery will very often take place, without the most distant chance either of recovering the lost goods, or of tracing the thieves. Nor should such chokey-dars be sent away unpaid for their night’s labor: two annas, equal to nearly four-pence, should be given to each; otherwise, intelligence of the deficit will be conveyed to the next halting place, and no chokey-dar will be forthcoming; unless, indeed, one of the collector’s peons accompany, or, that his 298order be sent, particularly cautioning all the inhabitants to provide whatever may be wanting. The reader must not imagine himself in England, but transplant his ideas to a country where there is no public place of accommodation, no relay of horses, no public conveyance, and perhaps no other Christian within scores of miles! His fancy may have abundance of scope, in picturing to him the variety of preparations necessary to be made before a party, much more a single gentleman, breaks ground, for the purpose of sporting, or of repairing to some distant station. He will then see how very necessary it is to adopt the local customs, as well as every means that prudence can devise; observing particularly, that when a gratuity is to be bestowed upon any villager, &c. for provisions, or services, he should never fail to see the full sum paid into the poor fellow’s hand: otherwise, the servants will at least diminish, if not altogether withhold, the donation.

In consequence of the great number of servants that sleep within the houses, and the circumstance of each dwelling having a separate gateway, where a durwan, (or porter,) constantly attends; as well as owing to the great number of chokies or patrole stations, every where to be seen; few chokey-dars are employed in the town of Calcutta, unless by merchants who have warehouses full of valuable commodities; or 299shroffs, (i.e. bankers) residing in that part of the town inhabited principally by natives: at the baugeechahs, or garden-houses, which generally stand, like our farm-houses, at some distance from other dwellings, chokey-dars are found to be indispensably necessary. Within the Company’s provinces no head chokey-dars are to be seen: there the watchman may perhaps be exempt from the imputation of belonging to the local gang: though circumstances do sometimes authorize the suspicion, that he aids the perpetrators of the robbery. Generally speaking, however, there appears no ostensible person who comes forward to guarantee the safety of goods under charge of a chokey-dar: when this most desirable assurance is wanting, the greatest vigilance is sometimes inadequate to the prevention of theft. It is not a very easy matter to defeat the machinations of a most expert banditti, in a country where it is necessary to throw open every door, and window, during the night, lest suffocation should ensue!

I have said that a Durwan, or porter, is stationed at the gate, on entrance into that area, (called the compound,) within which most houses in Calcutta are situated. This servant usually receives from four to five rupees monthly, and dresses little better than a cooly; though, in some instances, he may be seen more respectably cloathed. So soon as a palanquin enters the 300gate, the durwan vociferates lustily; informing, that a visitor approaches; when immediately some other servant, such as a peon or hirkarah, runs to enquire the name, &c. which is immediately announced to the master or mistress.

The durwan is always allowed a small lodge near the portal, where he is in constant attendance day and night. When the family have retired to rest, he shuts and secures the gates: formerly, it was an invariable rule to close them during meals, and to retain them in that state, until notice was sent by the head servant that all the plate, &c. were safe. This certainly was not a bad custom; and, no doubt, operated as a check upon many, who, but for such a restriction, would purloin some valuable article of a portable description: I regret to think it should have been not only relaxed, but nearly abandoned: probably owing to mistaken delicacy.

The Cahar, or palanquin-bearer, is a servant of peculiar utility, in a country where, for four months, the intense heat precludes Europeans from taking much exercise; and where, during a similar term, the constant state of puddle, in every place not artificially raised, and drained, at a great expense, utterly precludes them from walking. Indeed, even in the cold months, it is not always that the palanquin can be dispensed with: at all events; the chattah, or large umbrella, 301must accompany. Many gentlemen who arrive during the winter season, find the sun little more than comfortable; they therefore, very foolishly, dispense with the chattah, and allow themselves to be heated extremely. So many instances have happened of persons being carried off suddenly, in consequence of such exposure, that I cannot too earnestly exhort all visiting India, to be very cautious of placing reliance on strength of constitution: the strongest are in most danger; on them fever seizes firmly, giving but little time for the adjustment of affairs, and even less scope for the exercise of medical skill.

The number of, what is called, a set of bearers, varies according to the situation, the occupation, and the weight of the employer. In Calcutta, where there is much visiting, at least seven must be kept, of whom one stays at home to cook victuals for the rest; and as another of them will probably be the sirdar, or head-bearer, who attends personally when his master is dressing, and generally has some charge of linen, &c. he will not, except on emergency, officiate under the bamboo. Thus, in fact, only five will be left to carry the palanquin and the umbrella; the man bearing the latter at times relieving one of the four that carry the vehicle; and they, in exchange, assuming his part of the labor, alternately.

There are, however, various tribes of bearers, 302generally provincial, all of which are to be found at Calcutta; those chiefly employed in that capital are called Ooreeahs, i.e. natives of the province of Orissa; a tract of country lying between the Roopnarain and the northern sircars: this occasions them to be generally designated ‘Balasore-bearers:’ Balasore being the principal town.

Language is scarcely adequate to describe the influence this set of menials had obtained, throughout those parts to which they extend their services; which is rarely more than a few miles around Calcutta. They are, in fact, a commonwealth, governed by one or more of their gang, and subject to the regulations, from time to time, established by councils convened, in the most imperious manner, by the old sirdars; every trespass against which is attended with, not only immediate punishment, by means of ejection from among their society in the town, but absolutely by a species of out-lawry, even in their own country!

To such a pitch had these gentry carried their audacity, that, more than once, they withdrew from Calcutta, leaving its inhabitants in the most awkward predicament, until they thought fit to return, or that their insolent demands were complied with. If any offence be given to one or more, especially to a whole set, the matter is instantly submitted to their superiors; who have, on many occasions, issued their mandate, 303interdicting all Ooreeahs from engaging in the offender’s service. Where real injury is done, they never fail to carry the matter either before the commissioners of the police, or into the supreme court: the costs being defrayed by a general assessment. The prudence with which they proceed, in this mode of prosecution, is by no means unworthy of notice; if imitated by some of our own litigious spirits, it could not fail to save infinite vexation, trouble, and expence. They put the case, very fairly, before a fictitious tribunal, consisting of sircars, writers, &c. who, having been employed by gentlemen of the law, have picked up a smattering of that profession, and are perfectly acquainted with all the forms attendant upon most civil causes. These ‘base epitomes of legal greatness’ possess wonderful shrewdness; and, by means of two fictitious advocates of a corresponding description, who, with an acuteness scarcely to be equalled, argue their respective sides of the question, i.e. plaintiff and defendant, are enabled to decide on the case with strict propriety. The fact is, that this mock court, being instituted for the purpose of preventing any native, who chooses to have his cause pleaded before it, from being entangled in that glorious net of perplexity, the supreme court, every endeavor is made to sift the several turns and arguments, that may be resorted to by the defendant. Consequently, 304it is ever the study of the accusing party to strengthen his opponent’s side, with every subtlety that can be devised. The sages give their opinions the same as in our courts; but are very cautious never to decide in favor of a plaintiff, unless the case appears fully established.

It is a well-known fact, that, with the exception of a few haughty, opinionated individuals, who, relying on their own judgment, and thinking such a resort would degrade them, or perhaps discover that chicanery on which they rely for success, omit the above very sagacious precaution, scarcely an instance is to be found where a native, residing in Calcutta, has failed to gain his cause against an European. To such a tribunal, as above described, the Ooreeahs almost invariably resort; when, if its decision is in their favor, the real court soon becomes arbiter on the occasion.

It is perhaps fortunate for the inhabitants (I mean the European families) of Calcutta, that, within the last twenty years, great numbers of Patna, Dacca, and other cahars, or bearers, have resorted to the presidency, to participate in those services formerly monopolized by the Ooreeahs. The latter, after some struggle, by endeavoring to intimidate their rivals, and by debarring the teeka, or job-bearers, who were formerly, to a man, of the Balasore tribe, from 305serving, even for the day, those who retained Patna, or other cahars, were, in the end, obliged to lower their tone, and rather to conciliate, than to arrogate, upon all occasions. Not that they are by any means reconciled to the new system; but they find their mandates of less force, their influence nearly extinguished, and their numbers considerably decreased: at least, they bear no proportion to the cahars from the country; who now ply for teeka, i.e. job-work, in every quarter.

Still it must not be denied, that the OoreeahsOoreeahs are, in some respects, excellent servants: they are very careful of furniture; and being able-bodied men in general, are capable, even with less numbers, of proceeding great distances: they are, besides, far more cleanly in their persons, and neater in their dress; which, however, consists merely of a doty, wrapped round the middle, and tucked in, together with a wrapper, to be thrown over them in very inclement weather, but usually folded up, and carried over the shoulder. When their heights are unequal, they use a small quilted pad, of linen, stuffed with rags, or cotton, which is suspended from the palanquin pole, or bamboo, and being placed between it and the shoulder of the shortest bearer of the two, (they carrying in pairs, two bearers before, and two behind,) serves to bring about an even bearing on each.

306The Balasore bearers, i.e. the Ooreeahs, all preserve but one lock on the top of their heads, the same as the sircars, and other Hindus in general; they wear no turban, but paint their faces, arms, throats, and breasts, with sandal-wood and vermilion. Some wear a few small beads, chiefly of turned wood, about their necks; and, occasionally, a stout silver ornament, of the ring kind, called a bangle, or kurrah, on either wrist, or a pair of tigers’ claws set in silver, back to back, suspended by a number of black threads from their necks. This is considered a potent charm against J’haddoo, or witchcraft: and a preventative of various dangerous diseases. It is peculiar, that the Ooreeah bearers never wear shoes, and that they prefer cloaths of an almond color. The number of Ooreeahs in a single set, is generally, as before stated, seven: the head-bearer or sirdar, receiving five, or even six, rupees monthly; sometimes a mate receives, or is said to receive, five, and the residue about four. Formerly the rates were generally one rupee less than the above for each rank: but ‘the hay was made while the sun shone,’ and these gentry did not fail, while in power, to raise their respective wages.

Where there is a lady in the family, three more bearers must be added; or perhaps five: and a good comfortable building must, at all events, be set apart for these domineering servants: 307without that is done, they will not stay. Nor will they handle a chillumchee, (or wash-hand bason,) after it has been used: though they will officiate in pouring the water, serving the napkin, laying the shaving apparatus, and a variety of matters formerly supposed to be repugnant to their tenets; but which objections are not so much insisted upon since the country cahars have resorted, in such numbers, to Calcutta, and aided to overthrow that immense edifice of insolence, imposition, and pride, so conspicuously rearing its head; whereof, fortunately, the foundation was thus destroyed. I perfectly recollect the time, and, indeed, the matter is not yet obsolete, when the council, as the sirdar vainly termed their meeting, used to send their summons to any Ooreeah in an European’s service; and, in case of refusal, or neglect, mulcted the party according to their pleasure. Thus, no individual, however attached to his master, or tired of the noxious and tyrannic mandates of the sirdars dared to disobey; the smallest relaxation in points of forbearance, or in the least tending to augment the duties of the whole class, whether individually or collectively, was certainly followed by the most severe inhibitions, and by fulminations, perfectly terrific to those brought up in ignorance, and under the complete domination of a persecuting priesthood. A few instances occurred wherein the 308masters almost forcibly debarred their servants from obedience to the adjudications of this overbearing usurpation; but it was in vain: the government, perhaps prudently, discouraged every attempt to change the system; while the Supreme Court, then newly robed, and panting for the exercise of power, whereby to shew their extensive authority, and their sedulous attention to the rights of ‘an oppressed people’, favored every complaint wherein a native was to be redressed: this was done with the view to annihilate those multifarious extortions, and severities, not to say cruelties, under which it was supposed they were groaning. The farce had its day, like all other good farces; but, in the end, Blacky found out that law was very expensive, and that it had so many ins and outs, with which they were then unacquainted, that the disease fortunately carried its own remedy: the fact, as it now stands, being simply this; that all are ready enough to complain to a justice, but are very shy of bringing the subject before a judge!

Where bearers are not constantly wanted, (a very uncommon case, by the by,) the best mode is to hire teeka-bearers, when occasion may demand: for ordinary excursions, five are usually employed; each receiving four annas, or the quarter of a rupee, daily. This has its advantages, and its disadvantages; for it is not always 309these job-men are to be had; nor will they come at the hour appointed; then, again, they must go (the Lord knows where) to their meals; and they are by no means so careful of the palanquin, &c. as regular servants; nor will they attend to a variety of in-door matters, which may be peremptorily requisite. It must further be obvious, that, if the occasions for employing them be numerous, they will prove very expensive: consequently, can only suit those whose incomes are confined, and whose ordinary avocations do not lead them further than may be walked, without danger, or great inconvenience, under the shade of a chattah, or umbrella. It is evident, that one sirdar at five, one mate at four and a half, and five bearers at four each, amount only to twenty-nine rupees and a half per mensem; whereas five teekas, if employed every day at a rupee and a quarter daily, will amount to thirty-seven rupees and a half. This would be like riding in a Hackney-coach all day, when an excellent equipage might be kept for less money.

The Patna, Dacca, and other up-country bearers, in general receive less wages than the Ooreeahs; but require to be more numerous in a set; few consisting of less than eight, including the sirdar, who generally remains at home. His usual wages are from four and a half to five rupees, and the rest receive from three up to four rupees 310monthly; according to circumstances. When in their own country, they serve for less wages than when employed elsewhere. Those at Dacca, where provisions are very cheap, seldom have more than two, of two rupees and a half; and it is wonderful how reluctant they are to quit that part of the country, even under a very considerable advance of pay; therefore, when a corps marches from the Dacca district, every endeavor is made to procure bearers who are going to the several districts lying in, or near, the route. This is sometimes attended with considerable convenience; since it obviates the necessity of exchanging servants while on the march; it being extremely common for bearers to proceed only to an appointed town, there to leave their employer, who must use his endeavors to obtain others in their stead. Thus, in marching from the frontier to Lucknow, or Cawnpore, it is necessary to obtain a new set of bearers at either of those places, to proceed to Benares; at Benares they will engage probably to go no further than Patna, if proceeding by the river route; or, if by the new road, only to Hazary-Bang, or perhaps to Rogonautpore, or to Bissunpore; where a final exchange must be made, for a set that will proceed to Calcutta, Midnapore, &c. Yet it cannot be said that this occasions any very serious difficulty; the occurrence being so common, and the prices 311so well settled by the ordinary practice, that, unless a gentleman has the character of using his servants ill, there seldom appears any deficiency of candidates for employment.

Bearers, of all descriptions, are extremely apt to carry too much luggage for themselves, stowing it, to an unmerciful amount, on the back of some poor camel, or on some cart, which their master thinks is very lightly laden. The mischief is not suspected, until he notices, day after day, the late arrival of his baggage, or receives a report that his cattle have sore backs, &c. &c.; which must, of course, prove highly pleasing in situations where no substitutes for the disabled beasts can be found!

Let me recommend my mode of correcting this evil; under which I was so often, and so grievously, a sufferer, that, at length, a radical cure became indispensable. I made a point of lagging behind sometimes, or perhaps of riding back, and of stopping my camels, &c., to see what, besides my own property, might be on their backs. It is inconceivable what bundles of cloaths, pots, and pans, were burthened: nay, even perroquets sometimes formed a part of the group. In the first instance, I gave fair warning, that whatever was found thus clandestinely laden, should be destroyed: after that, I spared nothing; but caused all the brass vessels to be beat up with a tent-mallet, and the rest of the 312luggage to be burnt. The consequence was such as might be expected; my baggage was always up in excellent time, and my cattle were no more chafed, and galled, by excessive burthens.

I anticipate the observation, that, ‘the drivers were to blame.’ True, but few of them have the resolution to withstand solicitation, or, perhaps, a small douceur, in some shape or other; and as to discharging them, it is not always practicable, the greatest fear being that they should discharge themselves. Elephants and camels must not be put into the hands of novices: neither will they always submit to be ruled by strangers.

As I have just said, the bearers are almost always principally concerned in these instances; the reason for which is, that every other servant has usually some family, or goes share in some tattoo, (poney,) which conveys his luggage: not that they would be a whit more scrupulous, were it not for the fear of discovery; to which they would be peculiarly liable. On the other hand, the Bearer, being perhaps merely a temporary servant; and, if I may so term it, an alien in the camp, has no such means of disposing of his luggage, as falls to the lot of the regular servants: besides, all this tribe are either most penurious, or most dissipated. They either hoard every cowrie; or run in debt, and then, to avoid payment—run away.

313The immediate business of a head-bearer is to prepare for his master’s dressing; seeing that the linen is all properly in order, boots and shoes cleaned, coat, &c. brushed, side-arms, &c. bright; also that the palanquin is clean, and free from defect; that the water used for drinking be purified; that the kettle is put on in due time: in general, the inferior bearers clean the furniture, and carry the chowry, (or whisk,) and swing a kind of punkah, (or fan,) made either from a large palm leaf, or with split bamboo, and printed cotton; of which pieces are to be had stamped expressly for that purpose; they are swung backwards and forwards to cool a room: the butt of the punkah-stick resting on the ground. A punkah is, by some, used instead of a chattah, (or umbrella); but it is very inferior as a defence against either sun, wind, or rain. The natives in some parts, especially to the northward, use these punkahs very generally; but, of late, they seem to have rather changed in favor of the chattah, great numbers of which are now conveyed, as an article of merchandize, from the lower provinces to Benares, Lucknow, &c.

The dress of the cahar, by which I mean the up-country bearers, usually consists of a colored turban, blue being, if anything, the prevailing color; the head-bearer generally has a short coortah, not unlike that of the mosaulchy, and, 314as well as all the inferiors, wears a doty, in the usual manner: though some few wear a kind of petticoat-trowser, not unlike the Highland kelt. Cummer-bunds are also in general use; though, with few exceptions, of a very coarse quality. Many gentlemen present their bearers, hirkarahs, peons, syces, khedmutgars, and mosaulchies, annually, with a set of turbans and cummer-bunds, all of the same color; so that the whole appear, to a certain extent, in livery. In this indulgence many of the natives take great pride: on the whole, indeed, they are as vain as our beau-footmen; and, like them, can assume wondrous airs, when they have to deal with the servant of a person inferior in rank to their own master.

While speaking of bearers, I shall describe the various kinds of palanquins in use; observing, that the greatest improvements, which perhaps ever took place in any vehicle, have been brought forward in the construction of this sine quâ non of Indian luxury. In order to preserve due order, I shall commence with a description of the naulkeen, or naulkee, it being the first in rank among the contrivances of this description.

This immense carriage is only used by crowned heads, and may be compared to a portable throne, on which the prince sits with his feet crossed, and tucked up under his hams, (the usual sitting position of Asiatics,) having at his back an immense 315pillow, and under him a suitable bedding, both sumptuously ornamented; besides these, many smaller pillows lie scattered about, to be applied as may be found agreeable. The frame of the naulkeen may be about five feet long by four broad, well secured at the corners, and taped at the bottom in a very close manner, both lengthwise and breadthwise, so as to leave no interstices. The sides are raised with richly carved wood-work, generally gilded in a very shewy style. The naulkeen is carried, like a litter, by eight men, who support two poles, one running under each side-bar, and projecting before and behind; two bearers being at each extremity, the same as in a palanquin. This vehicle, though it appears extremely ponderous, is said, by the bearers, to be far lighter than one of those Mahannah-palanquins I am about to describe: no doubt but eight men must feel less pressure, individually, from such a weight, supposing it to be equal to that of the mahannah, which is, to say the truth, a very heavy, though a very comfortable, machine.

The dooly, or covered litter, was certainly the parent of all the palanquin kind; it is yet in very common use among the less opulent classes, and especially employed for the conveyance of women; in our armies this little vehicle affords excellent means, of transporting sick and wounded men, either to the hospitals, or on a march. 316Its usual construction is extremely simple; consisting of a small carpoy, or bedstead, perhaps five feet by two and a half; having four stump feet, about nine or ten inches from the ground, into which the sides, and end pieces, are tenoned. A very slight frame of bamboo work, equal in size to the frame of the litter, is placed over it horizontally; serving as a roof for the support of a double cover, (generally of red karwah, or of blue, or white calico,) which lies over the roof, and falls all around; so as to enclose the whole space between the roof and the bedstead. There is seldom any bedding but what is provided by the party carried in the dooly; unless it be one appertaining to some family, thereby it is frequently used: in such case, the interior is made very comfortable, and the cover ornamented with borders, fringes, &c. This last kind, being almost exclusively appropriated to the zenanah, is on a very small scale; rarely exceeding three feet, by little more than two: of such, thousands are to be hired at Calcutta, and most of the provincial towns. They carry very easy; often, indeed, having only two bearers under the bamboo, with one carrying a bangy, or a bundle, who relieves the others occasionally; but, for the most part, four bearers are employed. The closeness of the interior, added to the very trifling elevation, (whereby the dust 317cannot fail to be offensive,) and the very insufficient guard against rain, combine to render this vehicle by no means pre-eminent for comfort; especially to delicate females.

It should seem that, in the course of time, an improvement was made in the construction of litters, by giving the bamboo, or pole, a considerable arch in that part which went over the interior. Thus the frame was raised considerably; while the rider was enabled to sit upright, rather more conveniently than when the bamboo was straight: this, however, could only be done towards the centre; the legs being crossed under the hams, according to the usual sitting position of the natives. To them, such a posture, being confirmed by long habit, in use from their infancy, is a relaxation; whereas, to a person not so accustomed, nothing can be more irksome and fatiguing. Gradually, the sides of the vehicle were ornamented, and changed from the simple parallelogram to an oblongated hexagon; which is now very common: the bamboo was also yet more arched, and its anterior projection carried out in an upward curve to the length of full twelve feet or more: it was also covered with broad-cloth throughout; that part above the seat being ornamented with silk fringes, and the fore-end furnished with a brass ornament; either a tiger’s, or an alligator’s head, or 318perhaps some imaginary non-descript, placed at the end of a brass ferule, enclosing the bamboo for half a yard at least.

Still there was abundant room for amelioration; but the natives could brook no encroachment on the publicity thus given to their persons, while seated in a vehicle, which, owing to the weight being nearly on a level with the bearers’ shoulders, (a great portion, namely, the head and shoulders, being far above it) added to the awkward arch above, which operated as a lever, was peculiarly unsteady; ever threatening to upset with the least inattention to equipoise. The danger of adding to the superincumbent weight, of which the mischief was sensibly felt, caused a slight reduction of the lever, by lengthening the suspending laths a few inches, so as to lower the centre of gravity. But, by way of recompence, perhaps, for the supposed degradation, a rich covering of broad-cloth was thrown over the arch; having in it several bamboo-laths running at right angles with the bamboo; and forming a canopy, corresponding in form with the curve, about four and a half feet in width; of which the corners were tied down to those of the palanquin frame, and the edges were trimmed with an open quadrated, or reticulated fringe, full six inches in depth.

As it would be a sin to spoil so costly an 319awning, it was taken off in bad weather, and put into a bag made of wax-cloth, to be carried on one of the bearers’ shoulders; in the mean while, a large sheet, of the same material, was thrown over the bamboo, to keep the inhabitant from being washed away. It is not above twenty-five years back, that this kind of palanquin was in use among the European residents of India, and especially among the military.

Probably in consequence of a painted canvas awning being used, curving down gradually at the sides, not unlike a testudo, this machine was called a ‘fly-palanquin.’ It was, however, made full six feet in length, and of a comfortable breadth, being also furnished with a good pillow or two, and a neat bedding, stuffed with that kind of cotton known by the name of seemul. The bamboo frame, on which the canvas was stretched, and of which a ruffle about six inches in depth remained pendant, was lined with colored silk, chintz, &c. giving the interior rather a finished appearance. I have no doubt but the form of this kind of palanquin, as in use among the natives, gave rise to the use of punkahs, in preference to chattahs; it must be obvious that the former, being flat, and furnished with a flounce full half a yard in depth, was more conformable to the lateral apertures than an umbrella could be; while, at the same 320moment, it was far more portable in passing through those narrow streets and gullies, characterizing every great city in India.

Time ‘astonished the natives,’ as well as the Europeans, by bringing forth the Mahannah-palanquin. This vehicle, now so common, has entirely banished the fly-palanquin, of which it would probably be difficult to find one in use with any European throughout the country: so general, indeed, has been the adoption of the former, that many of the natives, in every part, now either ride in mahannahs, or have their doolies constructed in imitation of them. The mahannah resembles an immense chest, standing on four feet, raising it nearly a foot from the ground. About two-fifths of each side is open, serving for a door; the residue being usually closed up, either with very thin pannels, or with canvas, leather, &c. The doors are sometimes made to close, by means of two Venetian frames, that, when brought from their recesses, meet in the centre, but at other times run back, on small metal wheels, in grooves behind the pannels respectively.

The roof is made of very thin pannelling board, laid longitudinally over slight battens a little cambered; though some are quite flat: over the boards a stout, but thin, canvas is well stretched, and beaded down at the edges: this is usually painted white. The fore, and back, 321parts are in general closed, with the exception of two small Venetian, or perhaps glass, windows, near the top; to allow a draught of air. The exterior is painted according to the fancy of the proprietor; often very handsomely, and well varnished. The front and hind poles attach at about three-fifths up the body of the vehicle; being rivetted to iron ribs, firmly screwed by means of diverging claws to the main pieces, they are further steadied by iron stays, proceeding from the top and bottom corners, of each end respectively, to the pole; to which they are bolted at about eighteen inches from the body. The poles are always covered with leather.

The body of a mahannah is generally about six feet, or six feet two inches long, and from twenty-six to thirty inches in width; the height is sufficient to allow a tall person’s sitting upright, without a hat. The beddings of most are covered with chintz of neat patterns; while a small piece of carpet, tiger’s-skin, morocco-leather, or some such article, is spread at the feet, to prevent its being soiled.

In most mahannahs there are racks, which serve to support the back; others are provided with two small, or one large pillow, also covered with chintz. Above the doors it is common to screw in flat brass knobs, whereon to button either canvas or leather curtains, that will roll up occasionally, and buckle like the aprons of gigs, 322&c.: there are also studs, of the same description, fixed at the sides of the doors, to fasten down the edges of the curtains. One principal use, however, of such studs, is, to affix cheeks made of kuss-kuss, to be watered when journeying any distance.

The mahannah is unquestionably a very heavy vehicle, and, being totally devoid of elasticity, far more oppressive to the bearers than any machine on a slighter construction. Yet the average rate of travelling may be computed at from three and a half, to a quarter wanting of four miles, within the hour, in going great distances; such as from Chunar to Calcutta, at the proper season, when the waters are not out, and the heat not too oppressive. That estimate includes all stops for changes of bearers, which, in travelling dawk, (that is, post,) will take place at certain stages, from ten to fifteen miles apart. Thus, a journey of four hundred miles may be made in about five days, with great ease; the night being often more favorable than the day to making progress; especially from March to the middle of June. During that period, the roads are every where good, the grass jungles in most places burnt away, and fewer tigers lurk near the highways. It is often necessary to lie by for a few hours during the mid-day; when the ground is so hot as absolutely to scorch the bearers’ feet. At such times, the kuss-kuss tatties 323are peculiarly serviceable; but, in case none are affixed, the guttah-tope, or palanquin-cover, must be kept wet; as already observed, in describing the occupations of the bheesty, or water-carrier.

Ladies are usually conveyed about Calcutta, or any where for short distances, in a kind of palanquin, called a boҫhah. This has its poles fixed much in the same manner as in the mahannah, but its body is of a very different form; being a compound of our sedan chair with the body of a chariot. Its deep shape, and its seat, much resemble the former; but having two doors, one on each side, with one window in front, as well as a small one behind, all furnished with Venetians and glasses, give it, in those respects, some claim to alliance with the latter. I should have observed, that most of the gentlemen residing at Calcutta, ride in boҫhahs; which afford a better look-out, are more portable, and can turn about in narrow places, where a mahannah could not: besides, they are far lighter. The boҫhah made expressly for a lady, is fitted up in some style, and always has four large tassels, commonly of white silk, hanging at the four upper corners. There are usually pockets in front, and to the doors; the same as in chariots, &c.

About Dacca, Chittagong, Tipperah, and other mountainous parts, a very light kind of conveyance 324is in use, called a taum-jaung, i.e. ‘a support to the feet.’ This consists of an arm-chair, with a low back, at the sides of which two poles are affixed, even with the seat; from the two fore legs of the chair, iron stays project forward, supporting a foot-board, placed diagonally, so as to meet the natural position of the soles when the feet are thrown forward, much the same as the foot-boards of coach-boxes, only on a very light construction. In some instances, the taum-jaungs (vulgarly called tom-johns) are carried the same as the naulkeen; that is, by the four ends of the poles resting on the shoulders of as many bearers, all independent of each other. Experience has, however, proved such to be a very dangerous practice; for, if one of the bearers stumbles, the machine must inevitably be overset: the fall from such a height, especially if proceeding at a quick pace, is not devoid of danger. To remedy this, it has latterly become a custom to suspend two stout batons, by means of strong doubled cords, between the ends of the poles, before and behind; making such an allowance in respect to the length of cord, or sling, as may allow the poles to come down about as low as the bearers’ hips. The batons are slung by their middles, one bearer supporting the fore, the other the hind, part of each; all moving between the two side poles, but nearly in a line one behind the other. This 325does not altogether obviate the possibility of falling, by means of a stumble; but it lessens that danger considerably, and renders the accident less severe; the seat being much lowered.

In this respect, the boҫhah is also safer than the mahannah; the former being so much nearer the ground, and the erect position of the rider rendering him less liable to injury. When the hind bearers of a mahannah fall, not only the legs of the vehicle, but the head of its inhabitant, may be injured: such accidents are rarely attended with any other inconvenience than a job for the carpenter. If the fall takes place when a bearer is pushing behind, resting the palm of his hand against the butt end of the hinder pole, as is very common, there will be an additional impetus, by no means favorable to the machine; especially if the foremost bearers give way. Most of the mahannah palanquins have a box under the feet, and perhaps one under the head also, made water tight, and furnished with a lock. This, when travelling, is extremely convenient; insuring the presence of many little articles, both of raiment and refreshment, which, if trusted to a bangy, might not arrive in due time.

The bangy is a slip of bamboo, perhaps five feet in length, which, in the middle, may be four inches in width; the thickness about an inch; towards the ends it tapers a little, and 326has shoulders left, whereby to secure the nets, wherein are two baskets, made either of rattans, or of reeds, very closely worked, and probably covered with painted canvas, of leather. The bangy-wollah, that is, the bearer who carries the bangy, supports the bamboo on his shoulder, so as to equipoise the baskets suspended at each end. If not overladen, the bangy will generally keep pace with the palanquin; the bearer shifting the bamboo from one, to the other shoulder, as he proceeds.

Many gentleman have r’hunts, or r’huts, for the conveyance of their native ladies, either on a march, or to take an airing occasionally: in such case, a man must be employed to drive, and to take care of the bullocks. He is designated the ‘g’horry-waun;’ or carriage servant. His dress cannot be reduced to any exact standard, but will generally be found to resemble that of the khedmutgar; his pay being ordinarily from four to six rupees monthly. The generality of persons following this avocation, are rather elderly, and possess the outward shew of great decency and respectability; but I believe they are, with few exceptions, by no means of a character such as would be supposed from their venerable and sanctified appearance. I have seen so much, and the instances are so common, of the intrigues carried on, or connived at, by g’horry-wauns, as to satisfy 327me of their being as great hypocrites as are to be found on earth. The construction of a r’hut is so very curious as almost to defy description.

The g’horry-waun sits astride that part of the fore-frame which may be compared with the pole and traverse of one of our four-wheeled carriages, under a seiwaun, or semiaun, made of the same stuff as the covering, supported in nearly a horizontal position, by two slight poles fixed into iron ferules at the body of the frame, and proceeding, at and angle of about 45° to the foremost edge of the seiwaun. The bullocks are managed by means of a strong cord, passed through their septums, or divisions between their nostrils, and tied over the crowns of their heads, where the rein, made also of rope, attaches: this effectually curbs the cattle. Possibly such a device may appear to partake of cruelty; but experience has proved, that no other mode is adequate to keeping this fiery, restless, and vicious, breed of cattle in tolerable subordination. The g’horry-waun is provided with a severe goad: the application of which, to the hind quarters of the bullocks, causes them to keep up a good smart trot. When they are tolerably quiet, the driver’s feet generally suffice, to keep them to their pace: but, when all other modes fail, he twists their tails, and thus urges them to their best 328speed. The reins should serve both to stop, and to guide; but, as the bullocks are not always prompt in turning when only so acted upon, the tail is often resorted to, as a never-failing rudder!

Your true home-bred Englishmen can have little idea of the rate at which a pair of oxen can draw one of these r’huts; he cannot readily imagine, that they can travel from four to six miles within the hour; and that, too, where the g’horry-ka-leek, or track of a wheel, is scarcely to be found. I have seen a pair of Nagore, or of Guzzerat, bullocks, (I forget which,) standing full sixteen hands at the withers, (making allowance for the humps on the shoulders of all cattle bred in that quarter;) that could with ease trot with a r’hut at the rate of eight miles within the hour. But such must not be considered as common: perhaps five miles may be the truest average. Nor is it to be understood, that bullocks keep up an even pace, as horses do; on the contrary, they either proceed at their quickest trot, or at a walk; there is little medium: the fact is, that, not being trained to a continuance of one set pace, but urged by starts, at the will of their driver, they want that habit which would improve their wind.

That breed of oxen said to be chiefly raised in the Guzzerat, and Nagore districts, is very fine. The animals are of a milky whiteness, 329handsomely formed, with fine eyes, and horns generally not more than a foot in length, but gracefully turned, partly forward, and partly upward. The natives invariably either paint or gild the horns; and sometimes mark the sides, necks, hams, and shoulders, of their favorites with mindy; that is, with the plant generally known among botanists, under the name of hinna. Of this I shall have occasion to speak more fully when treating of the ornaments in use among the ladies of India: at present briefly remarking, that, whether owing to the coarse manner in which the mindy is applied, or to my want of taste, the practice never pleased me; although the color itself, namely, a tawny red, forms by no means a bad contrast to the brilliant whiteness of the animal.

A conveyance on two wheels, but in most other respects perfectly similar to the r’hut, is extremely common in India; being used by men, as well as by women. The body of this kind is usually square; and the roof by no means so elevated. With few exceptions, these have red covers, in the sides of which, as also in those of the r’huts, are small slits, serving for peep-holes. In this two-wheeled kind, called generally ghorries, (i.e. carriages,) such are more necessary than in the others; the former being almost invariably fitted up with cheeks, or screens; one of which is ever appended to the 330fore-part, between the interior and the driver. The common g’horry, now under description, is rarely, if ever, kept by any European; but may be seen plying for hire in various parts of Calcutta. Some of these have shafts in which a tattoo (poney) is fixed, with very slight harness; barely sufficient to keep the crook-saddle in its place. This is a recent improvement; as is also the application of tattoos to r’huts: I understand they are found to be more manageable, and far cheaper than bullocks; besides, their pace is much quicker; and, in case of failure, they are most easily converted into cash: an object of great moment to the parsimonious Hindu!

Neither the dress, nor the emoluments, of the persons driving such carriages, can be estimated with precision, but, in regard to the latter, we may safely conjecture that something handsome is made; knowing them to be employed more in the conveyance of prostitutes than in any other kind of fare. The usual hire of a four-wheel r’hut, drawn by tattoos, is, I believe, about three rupees per diem; while those with two wheels, and only one tattoo, at the utmost earn only two rupees: I never could ascertain any fixed rate; the g’horry-waun always endeavoring to make his bargain for the trip to the best advantage. Judging from the rapid strides made in various parts of the country, especially at the several 331presidencies, to bring all matters to that kind of system, without which nothing could be done in Europe, we may expect, in a few years, to see regular fares and rates established, as in use among us, for the prevention of misconduct, and over-charges, on the parts of Hackney-coachmen and watermen.

The g’horry-waun may further be employed in a more subordinate capacity; namely, in driving a common cart, usually called a chuckrah, and known by the designation of a ‘hackery’ among Europeans. This kind of vehicle may carry, on an average, about eighteen or twenty maunds, equal to about thirteen or fourteen hundred weight: it is drawn by two oxen; though, in the northern parts of the country, we often see four attached to those which convey cotton, or other gruff merchandize, I confine myself, however, to such as may be retained by gentlemen, either for the carrying on of works, or for the transportation of baggage. Such as are hired by the day, usually cost half, or, at times, three quarters of a rupee daily, when employed on the spot; but, if required to proceed many stages, a whole rupee is demanded. When the g’horry-waun is the menial of any officer, &c. his pay, generally, is from four to five rupees monthly; or sometimes four when stationary, and five when marching. His dress is little better than that of a common cooly. Like 332all other servants to whose care the feeding of cattle is entrusted, this domestic will continue to extract some perquisite from whatever he either receives, or has to purchase. What with dustooree, short weight, over-charges, repairs, medicines, I have always found the g’horry-waun fully a match for his British compeers, in the proportion of emoluments derived from whatever money, &c. passed through his hands. Fortunately, the sum total of expences in the maintenance of a hackery, is very small, when compared with those attendant on a handsome chariot and pair, parading daily in the park.

The duty of a g’horry-waun is confined to the charge of his cattle; he seeing them properly rubbed down, and supplied with provender, which usually consists of the small chaff from various kinds of pulse, or of the stems of badjra, jewar, &c. (various kinds of millet,) or of the bootah, (or Indian-corn,) which, being purchased in bundles, he chops, with a common bill, on a log of wood. When bullocks are allowed gram, (already mentioned,) the usual portion for each is about two, or, at the utmost, three seers each; the seer weighing about two pounds avoirdupoise. It is indispensably necessary that this servant should understand how to load his carriage to advantage, and be able to repair such parts as may not actually require the aid of artizans. Thus, he must be competent to sew saleetah, 333or large sacking cloth spread at the bottom of the hackery, and lapping up, over every part, so as to prevent articles from being lost; and, in some degree, keeping them from being injured by the weather. He must likewise be able to take off a wheel, and above all things, he must be a careful, steady driver. This is the more necessary, owing to the distance between the wheels in all Hindostanee carriages being very small; and the load being placed, in most instances, above the level of their upper fellies; causing the gravity to be thrown very high in a hackery laden with bulky articles; and, consequently, very liable to be overturned. On the whole, few accidents of this kind happen; which, considering how much night travelling prevails in India, is rather surprizing. Possibly this is owing to the deepness of the ruts on roads frequented by carriages; whereby the wheels are presented in their course, so as to prevent the bullocks from deviating. As to the distance a hackery can travel in the course of a day, that must depend entirely on the state of the road, the strength and condition of the cattle, the heat of the weather, and the weight to be drawn: under fair circumstances, from fourteen to sixteen miles may be effected; but the latter distance is considered a forced march. To the weight of the carriage and its load, that of the driver must be added: he usually sitting 334immediately behind the bullocks. When the load is unavoidably rather too heavy behind, so as to cause a tendency to tilting, he sits more forward, between the cattle, and even occasionally upon the yoke itself. It is evident the latter position must be extremely oppressive to the cattle; but in hackeries laden with cotton, where the burthen necessarily occupies a great space, hanging over the rumps of the cattle, such a position is nearly inevitable.

The hackeries used in that branch of trade, are peculiarly strong, and invariably drawn by at least three bullocks; though more commonly by four. Sometimes buffaloes are used; but their pace is very slow, and they are extremely addicted to lying down in every puddle: their immense strength is, nevertheless, a great inducement to employing them, where very heavy commodities are to be carried; but it is found eligible, when buffaloes are yoked, to travel entirely by night; those animals being by no means calculated to bear the solar heat, which oppresses them inconceivably. The native merchants commonly mix one or two among their teams, and, not unfrequently, cause full thirty-five maunds, equal to about twenty-four cwt., to be laid on one hackery: but the distance travelled under such an immense load, can seldom amount to twelve miles.

While on the subject of drivers, which I have 335purposely made the last among the male servants, it may be as well to offer a few hints regarding European servants, and English cattle. It might be said, in brief, that neither the one, nor the other, is found to answer in India. An European servant must have nearly as many natives to attend him as an officer requires; he must have a house; and a million of indulgences, such as nearly abrogate his services, must be shewn towards him. Many have been taken to India, but the result has generally been, that, after saving a little money, or making a few friends, especially by farriery, they have set up in some business, and with very little warning, or ceremony, quitted their masters; who, on the other hand, were usually far from desiring their continuance. I think my own memory would furnish sufficient instances to warrant the assertion, that few, if any, of this class, can be exempted from the charge of ingratitude.

Really, when all things are considered, it must be owing to excess of vanity, or to some kindred folly, that any gentleman would retain an European coachman, or postilion, at full two hundred rupees monthly, all items included, when an excellent substitute may be found, among the many natives who follow those professions, and to whom a twelfth part of that sum is a little fortune. As to an European butler, steward, &c., the same objection exists; with the additional 336inconvenience of having not only an extra guest at all times, (for his fare will, in every respect, equal that of his master,) but a spy in livery, who will hear all the table talk, commercial, military, or political, and retail it, together with his own opinions and comments, to the whole of the native domestics.

Whenever a lady has carried out an European female servant, whether old or young, ugly or beautiful, it has usually happened that a speedy separation has taken place: many, indeed, have deserted from their mistresses while touching at Madras. Consequently, nothing but vexation and disappointment are ever to be expected from the attempt to fix such a person in her situation after arrival in India. No matter what bonds, contracts, or agreements, may have been entered into: these are all got rid of, by the party’s behaving in such a manner as totally precludes the possibility of detention. It may perhaps be urged, that, by reference to a magistrate, any unwarrantable conduct might be punished; but, however reasonable such an expectation might appear in Britain, it would be found totally inapplicable to India. I much doubt whether any justice would take cognizance of such a complaint, unless connected with some felonious proceeding, which might warrant him in committing to prison. This may appear a strange doctrine, and give but an 337indifferent opinion of the police; which, nevertheless, is superior to our own: it is far easier, for either European or native, to obtain redress in Calcutta, than at any of our public offices. The fact is, that the necessity for upholding the British character, however much formerly neglected by some persons in power, is now so well understood, that, nothing short of absolute compulsion would actuate a magistrate to commit an European woman, upon a charge of neglect of duty, inebriety, insolence, or other such impropriety: the litigation of pecuniary points would, of course, be referred to the Supreme Court; where the expences are at least three times as heavy as in the British tribunal, and the prosecutor would, in the end, have little to boast in regard to gaining his cause; though, possibly, he might gratify his resentments at a precious price!

Ladies embarking for India should seek for some female attendant, native of that country, wishing to return to her home. Many of these women, whose characters will bear ample scrutiny, come to England in charge of children, or with their mistresses, and would be extremely glad to go back under the joint advantages of emolument, and protection. An advertisement will bring forward many applicants: and a constant search among the advertisements in the various newspapers, will rarely fail to answer the 338same purpose. As numbers of this class promulgate their wishes to return to India, an additional advantage results from this measure; because, on arrival in the river, an useful interpreter is at hand; while, perhaps, a trusty and able servant is obtained; who, being attached, by many little kindnesses while on board-ship, would continue to serve, at least until some other might be obtained.

The female who attends a lady while she is dressing, &c., is called an Ayah; pretty nearly corresponding with the ‘lady’s maid’ among us. The wages of this servant are by no means settled, but may be taken on average at from eight to twelve rupees monthly. Some are half-cast children; that is, of European fathers and native mothers: brought up in families from their infancy. To these, good treatment and kindness should form a valuable compensation for the smallness of wages; and induce some among them to remain for numbers of years, faithful and affectionate; but such are by no means numerous, when compared with the thousands who, at a certain age, either quit in search of places affording either higher pay, or handsome perquisites; or who, if handsome, engage as ‘house-keepers to single gentlemen!’ The majority of ayahs are of Portugueze extraction, being descended from those heroes who, in times of yore, ‘laid bleeding Asia prostrate at 339their feet;’ but who now compose the most contemptible race to be found on earth; affording to the natives ample scope for comparison between the modern, and the quondam European. These Portuguese are all ‘good Christians,’ and, in several parts of the country, have small church-establishments, where they support missionaries; but in that humble style which strongly represents that abject state of Christianity, when the disciples were in a state of persecution.

However much their ancient splendor may have been tarnished, yet it cannot be denied, that, in religious matters, the sable Portugueze of Bengal have out-done the British completely. They had long ago churches, and have now one in Calcutta, built at a great expence by an opulent individual, which may at least competite with the only English steeple to be seen under the presidency of Fort-William. This solitary type of English devotion, was built some twenty years ago, in an old burying ground, where the bones of many worthy men, among whom I reckon my own grand-father, had lain in peace for scores of years; but which, in making arrangements for the new edifice, were torn up, and exposed, without much regard to decency. It would be difficult to pourtray the horror expressed in the countenances of many natives, who were witnesses of the disgusting scene: as 340to their observations, they were indeed pointed; and conveyed their decided detestation of so sacrilegious an act. I say sacrilegious, because no Mussulman would allow even the remains of his most bitter enemy, to be ejected from their last asylum!

Many Portugueze ayahs affect to be in possession of genealogies, whereby it should appear they are lineally descended from most illustrious characters; most of whom would, no doubt, be indeed abashed, could they now take a peep at their ill-fated and degenerate posterity! It is scarcely to be conceived how much pride is retained by women of this class: they are fond of adulation, and love the dear word ‘Signora,’ even to adoration. To see one of them full dressed on Christmas Day, is truly diverting; their costume being, as nearly as circumstances will admit, that of the days of royalty in France, with a dash of the antique Vera-cruz: to remind them, I suppose, of that eclipse which a gradual intermixture with the natives, has cast upon their once tawny, but now sable, countenances. One would think, that the humiliating reflections attendant upon such a comparison, should prompt them to burn their pedigrees, and to avoid whatever could induce to retrospection! But, no; the ayah prides herself on that remote affinity, to which her records give the claim; she retains all the offensive 341hauteur of her progenitors; which, being grafted upon the most obnoxious qualities of the Hindu, or Mussulman, characters, makes a tout ensemble as ridiculous as it is despicable!

The Hindostanee ayah, (by which I mean a woman born either of Mussulman, or of Hindu, parents,) is rather rare, unless in cases where young women have lost their casts, and, in a manner, become aliens to their own sects. These are said to be far the most valuable servants; much superior to such as come under the designation of baundy, (i.e. slave,) and which have, for the most part, been purchased in their infancy, from those miserable beings who, during times of scarcity, have been compelled to sell their offspring; thereby preserving the lives of both. The obligation, however, does not hold good, according to the existing regulations, under the British government; slavery being totally repugnant thereto; though the Mahomedan law authorizes the purchaser of a child, thus obtained, to retain it, and to command its services, upon the condition of proper food and raiment, until a certain age; when liberation takes place. There is, nevertheless, in this a wide latitude; it being extremely difficult for the slave to substantiate his age, which can only be computed according to what the purchaser may choose to assert it to have been when the sale took place: it is 342obvious, that he may sink many years in that particular.

Although very few of the Hindostanee women, except such as come under the above description, serve in the capacity of ayahs attendant upon ladies, many are employed as nurses to children after quitting the breast. In such case, an ayah rarely attends more than one child; hence, in some families, this class of domestics would be extremely numerous, were it not that few children, born of European parents, are retained beyond their third, or fourth, year in the country. The generality of those remaining, even for that term, under the care of ayahs, become crafty, proud, and unmannerly; which has occasioned several ladies to engage as few as possible of those attendants, and to give their little ones in charge to bearers, or other male servants; under whose care they are found to be less vitiated, and, in general, far more healthy. Unless great attention be paid, ayahs will initiate their young charges in many practices, and especially in language, such as must require infinite assiduity to subdue; and, after all, may not be completely suppressed. Besides, they are usually very slovenly, and offensive in their persons.

The Dhye is more generally an attendant upon native ladies: many of these are perfect in all the arts of intrigue; and, while they appear to be tottering to their graves, are often on their 343way to manage an assignation! The dress of these, in most points, corresponds with that of the Hindostanee ayah, but their pay is much less; few receiving more than five rupees, and the majority serving for four. But, according to the old saying, ‘what they loose in the dance, they gain in turning round;’ for what with little presents from both parties, and a number of domestic perquisites, especially the remains of victuals, cast-off wearing apparel, donations on certain festivals, overcharges in purchases, dustooree on all articles bought by the lady, &c. &c. &c., these Oriental ‘Mother Coles,’ manage to pick up a very good income, and, not unfrequently, lend money to their mistresses at the moderate rate of one anna, (i.e. a sixteenth,) per month, for every rupee advanced. This is never done without a pledge, generally of silver or gold ornaments, which the cunning jades lodge, under various pretexts, with some friendly goldsmith, by whom they probably were made.

Such a rate of interest may appear very high, but is in general practice where money is lent for short dates; and then under good security. It is to be understood, that the money-lending business, especially that on bunduck, or pledge, is confined entirely to the Hindus: Mussulmans are prohibited by their sacred institutes from receiving, though they are not so strictly 344tied down in respect to paying, interest; indeed, owing to the less frugal habits of this sect, and their greater indulgence in ostentatious display, few of its individuals can be considered totally exempt from that heavy fine collected by the Hindu shroffs, and mahajans, from such inconsiderate persons as have occasion to seek their aid.

It is, nevertheless, remarkable, that the generality of such money-lenders as reside at our several cantonments, are extremely liberal in their advances to officers, who, when much in arrears, are often extremely pressed for cash to defray their immediate table expences: and that, too, even on the most economical plan. I have been repeatedly kept from starving, by the accommodation afforded by shroffs; whose civility and forbearance form a most striking contrast with the punctual, and greedy, claims of both the Christian, and the Jewish, Shylocks of Britain. It must not be denied, that, when practicable, they will obtain some kind of security for their loans; which is but reasonable: but many hundreds of rupees have been furnished to me, simply on my acknowledgement, on a scrap of paper, barely specifying the sum and date, without any form such as could have validated the claim in case of my demise, or of my being prosecuted on the occasion. The truth is, 345that, where they see no danger, they feel no reluctance.

The generality of dhyes attendant upon native ladies, hold a regular intercourse with some one of the above class, by whom all difficulties resulting from irregular receipts of pay are removed. This is wonderfully facilitated by the circumstance of being related to some young khedmutgar in master’s service. Of this kind of family compact I have already spoken; therefore it is not necessary to enter into details at this moment: my readers will form a just opinion of the situation in which a gentleman is placed, when parties are formed, both before and behind the purdah, (curtain,) to watch his motions, and to carry on the great work of deception. In this, I speak feelingly, having, like hundreds of others, many of whom appeared studious to perpetuate their misfortune, been the dupe of such coalitions; from which it is, indeed, very difficult to escape. The attachment of many European gentlemen to their native mistresses, is not to be described! An infatuation, beyond all comparison, often prevails, causing every confidence, of whatever description, to be reposed in the sable queen of the haram! I do not mean to say that the above deceptions are universal; for I could adduce instances, wherein native women have 346conducted themselves invariably in the most decorous manner, and evinced the utmost fidelity, in every particular, to their keepers; some have absolutely sacrificed property to no inconsiderable amount, and given up every pretension to cast; that is, to admission among those of the same sect, or faith, braving the most bitter taunts, and the reproaches of their friends and relatives.

Here it may not be out of the way to notice that strange medley of religion, and of interest, some may say of love, which is observable in the conduct of the native women, either residing under the protection of Europeans, or coming under the ordinary description of kusbeen, (i.e. prostitutes). Their rigid adherence to, or, at least, their superficial observance of, whatever relates to the purification of their persons, after contact, is admirable! It is not uncommon, among those professing immense purity, both of body, and of soul, to get up several times during the night, for the purpose of ablution. However ridiculous such a practice may appear, yet we cannot refuse to bestow some commendation on so strict an etiquette: lamenting, at the same time, that so much perseverance should be thrown away. Must it not strike every person, as being highly curious, that a woman should make no scruple of cohabiting with a man, whose very touch, indeed, his entrance 347within a certain area, or even treading on that carpet whereon she were eating, should pollute the whole of the viands, and occasion their being thrown to the dogs, or given to some matranny, or other equally debased character? It really becomes a very serious question, I believe hitherto overlooked, under what plea a woman can allow her child, born under such a connection, to participate in her meals? But, reason is one thing, and maternal affection another! Still, though it may require no great sophistry for a woman to find an apology for such a decided inconsistency, it seems unaccountable how she is suffered to escape that vigilance, with which the priesthood, and others of her sect, watch her every act. I can ascribe it only to a certain deference, which has habitually sprung up in favor of all relating to Europeans, and regarding their domestic concerns. This, doubtless, saves many from those punishments, ordinarily attendant upon the most trifling dereliction of religious or civil ordinances.

The following description of the private lives and customs of those native women that are secluded from the public eye, was furnished to me by a friend, whose extensive researches have rendered him conspicuous as a Member of the Asiatic Society. I give it in his own words as a faithful detail, which cannot fail to prove interesting.