Part 2 — PART II.

Since I have publish'd the Receipts I gathered together, with regard to the several Preparations of the Products of a Farm, for the Table; entitled, The Lady's Monthly Director, &c. (now in its sixth Edition:) I have received a great number of Letters relating to many Improvements that may be made to it, and am desired to publish them, in order to render my first Volume more compleat. And, as I find they will be of public Use, I shall begin with one concerning the Preservation of Flesh, Fowls and Fish from Putrefaction, or Stinking; which is too often the Case, in Summer-time, when it is rare to find any sweet Morsels, although they have undergone the Discipline of Salting. As for the common Notion, that Women cannot lay Meat in Salt, equally with success, at all Times, it is false; it is the Manner of doing it, and not the state of the Women who handle it, that makes it right; there must be a right way of Management to preserve it, and render it fit for the Palate, as the following Letter informs us.

To Mr. Bradley.

Sir,

I have not only read your Book call'd, The Lady's Monthly Director, but have tasted many elegant Dishes of Meat, ordered by the Receipts in it; but I think, as you are a philosophical Gentleman, you should have taken a little more Notice of the preservation of Flesh from Putrefaction: For in many places I have set down to a Dinner which has sent me out of the Room by the very smell of it; even, though I am so much of the French Taste, that I can bear the Fumette. The Husband, in this Case, has blamed his Wife; and the Wife has taken the opportunity of whispering to her Husband, that the Maid was not in right Sorts when she salted the Meat: but I am sure, I shall set you to rights in that Point.

I have taken pains in my Family, which consists of thirty Persons, to have my Wife order the Experiment to be made, and I am satisfied from her Arguments, that there is nothing in the Notion above. But now to the purpose. Let your Flesh-Meat be fresh, and take all the bleeding Arteries from it; then sprinkle it with common Salt, and let it lie in the Air for twelve Hours; but salt the Places, where the Arteries were, more particularly: then wipe your Meat dry, and make some Salt very hot, over the Fire, then rub in the Salt very well, and lay the Pieces of salted Meat one upon another, and it will keep for several Months.

Or with common Salt, rub the several Pieces of Meat briskly with it, after the Blood is out, and especially in the hollow Places lay Salt enough. So will you be sure to have your Meat sweet, either Beef or Pork.

To send Venison Sweet in hot Weather.

Give it a little Salt, and have the Haunches parted, taking out the Marrow and all the Veins, as they are called, that bleed; and then wipe all of it quite dry after you have wash'd it with Vinegar, and then powder it with Pepper, and in an open Basket send it up to London.

Sometimes Venison (meaning a Buck) comes up to London, not fit for the Table; to prevent which, order the Keeper, when he has killed it, to strew three or four Pounds of Pepper, beaten fine, upon it; and especially upon the Neck Parts of the Sides, after he has wash'd them with Vinegar and dried them well.

But if it stinks, when you receive it, wash it with Vinegar, and dry it, then pepper it and wrap it in a dry Cloth, bury it in the Ground, three foot deep at least, and in sixteen Hours it will be sweet, fit for eating; then wash off the Pepper with Vinegar, and dry it with a Cloth, and hang it where the cool Air may pass, and the blue Flies cannot come at it. Query. Is it not strange, that we see daily the Limbs of Horses hung up in Trees, and they do not stink, but remain good a long while fit for Dogs Meat? If any one will say, that Dogs all delight to eat Carrion, I must deny that; but that every sort of Dog will roll himself in Carrion, when he can find it, is certain.

To send Partridges a long way in hot Weather.

When you have killed your Partridges, take out the Crop, and the Artery which bleeds in the Neck, then fill the Place with Pepper; and the Mouths of the Fowls should be fill'd with the same, for these Parts take a taint sooner than the rest; the Vent too, ought to be taken care of, and open'd, and filled with Pepper, beaten grossly. N.B. This Pepper may be always wash'd away without leaving any Season or Flavour behind it, and is a certain Antidote against Corruption. So the same may be done with Pheasants, and you should likewise leave on their Feathers.

To keep an Hare a long Time.

As soon as 'tis kill'd and discharged of its Entrails, take care that all the Blood be dried away with Cloths about the Liver, for there it is apt to settle, then dust the Liver well with Pepper; and fill the Body with Nettles, or dry Moss, for these will not raise a ferment as Hay and Straw will do, when they come to be wet; then fill the Mouth with Pepper, and it will keep a long time.

To keep Wild-Ducks fresh.

Draw them, and fill the Body with red Sage, after the inside is well pepper'd; and likewise pepper the inside of the Mouth, leave on the Feathers. A Goose may be serv'd the same way.

But if they be too long kept, or through want of Care, they should receive a taint; then, when they are pull'd, wash the Inside very well, with Vinegar and Water, and dry it well with a Cloth; and scrape away, if need be, what are call'd the Kidneys; then strew the Inside afresh with Pepper, and hang them up for an Hour or two, where the Air may pass through them.

Some in such a case will put an Onion into the Body, which does very well towards restoring it to a freshness; then wash out all, and prepare it for the Spit.

Helps towards the Preservation of Fish.

If you would keep Fish long, kill them as soon as they are out of the Water, and take out their Gills; then fill their Heads as much as may be, with Pepper, and wipe them very dry, and pack them in dry Wheat-Straw.

T. R.

To make Wine of White Elder-berries, like Cyprus Wine from Mrs. Warburton of Cheshire.

To nine Gallons of Water, put nine Quarts of the Juice of White Elder berries, which has been pressed gently from the Berries, with the Hand, and passed thro' a Sieve, without bruising the Kernels of the Berries; add to every Gallon of Liquor three Pounds of Lisbon Sugar, and to the whole Quantity put an Ounce and a half of Ginger, sliced, and three quarters of an Ounce of Cloves; then boil this near an Hour, taking off the Scum, as it rises, and pour the whole to cool, in an open Tub, and work it with Ale-Yeast, spread upon a Toast of white Bread, for three Days, and then tun it into a Vessel that will just hold it; adding about a Pound and a half of Raisins of the Sun split, to lie in the Liquor till we draw it off, which should not be till the Wine is fine, which you will find about January. This Wine is so like the fine rich Wine brought from Cyprus, in its Colour and Flavour, that it has deceiv'd the best Judges, These Berries are ripe in August, and may be had at the Ivy-House at Hoxton.

To make Wine of Black Elder-berries, which is equal to the best Hermitage Claret; from Henry Marsh, Esq. of Hammersmith.

Take nine Gallons of Spring Water, and half a Bushel of Elder-berries, pick'd clean from the Stalks; boil these till the Berries begin to dimple, then gently strain off the Liquor, and to every Gallon of it put two Pounds of good Lisbon Sugar, and boil it an Hour; then let it stand to cool, in an open Tub, for if it was to cool in the Copper, or Brass Kettle, it was boil'd in, the Liquor would be ill-tasted. When it is almost cool, spread some Ale-Yeast upon a Toast of White Bread, and put it into the Liquor, to work three Days in the open Tub, stirring the Liquor once or twice a Day, and then tun it in a Vessel of a right size, to hold it: At the same time add to every Gallon one pound of Raisins of the Sun whole, and let them lie in the Cask till the Wine is drawn off.

Such a small quantity of Wine, as is here directed, will be fit to bottle the January next after it is made, but larger Casks should not be drawn off till March or April.

A Receipt from Barbadoes, to make Rum; which proves very good.

In Barbadoes the Rum is made of the Scum and Offal of the Sugar, of which they put one ninth part, or eighth part, to common Water, about eighteen Gallons, all together, in a wooden open Vessel or Tub; cover this with dry Leaves of Palm, or for want of them, with the Leaves of Platanus or the Leaves of Fern in England, or the Parts or Leaves which Flagg-Brooms are made of. Let this remain for nine Days, till it changes of a clean yellow Colour, and it will be then fit to distil; then put it into an Alembic, and you will have what we call the Low-Wines. A Day or two after distil it again, and in the Cap of the Still, hang a small muslin Bag of sweet Fennel-Seeds, and the Spirit will be of a fine Flavour. Some will use Anniseed in the Bag, and some use a little Musk with the sweet Fennel Seeds, or else distil the Spirit twice, viz., once with the sweet Fennel-Seeds, and the next with a little Musk.

N.B. The wooden Vessels, or open Tubs, must not be made of any Wood that is unwholesome, or sweet-scented; such as Deal, Firr, or Manchineel.

In England, Treacle may be used with equal Success, and is cheap enough to get a good livelihood; as appears by the several Ways mention'd above, that have been privately experienced.

To make Citron-Water, from Barbadoes.

Take Citron, or Lemon Flowers, for the word Citron in French signifies Lemon; though we generally in England esteem the large Lemons to be Citrons, and the middle-siz'd we call Lemons, and the smallest of that race is call'd the Lime. In these, however, there are as many varieties as we have in Apples, one is finer flavour'd than the other. The Oranges too are of as many different Sorts, the Rind of one pleasanter than the other, and the Juice likewise, and so are the Flowers various in their Smells, some more odorous than others; yet all these are used indifferently, according to the Kinds that happen to grow upon the several Estates, where the Citron-Water is made, and this is the Reason why one Sort is better than another; and therefore, those who have the most pleasant Sorts, make the best Waters of this Kind.

We must take, either of Citron, Lemon, or Orange-Flowers, four Ounces to a Gallon of clean Spirit, or French-Brandy; put these in the Spirits, with two Pounds of white Sugar-Candy, beaten fine: then take of the best Citron-Peels, or Lemon-Peels, six Ounces, and let them steep in the Spirits till the Liquor is strong enough of every Ingredient; and when that is done, pour it off, through a Sieve. And in some places they put about half a Drachm of Musk to six Gallons of Liquor; and this has been sold for sixteen Shillings the Quart in London.

To make fine Vinegar.

There is no doubt but the making of Vinegar will be a considerable Article, seeing that few of our fine Preparations for the Table can be made without it. A Gentleman of great note has given me the following Receipt for it, viz.

To nine Gallons of Water, put eighteen Pounds of Malaga Raisins, chopt a little, Stalks and all; put this into a Cask, bound with Iron Hoops, and place it in the warmest Exposure you can find in the open Air: then take a Florence Flask, divested of its Straw, and put the Neck of it into the Bung-hole, fixing it as close as may be, with some Linnen-Cloth, and a little Pitch and Rosin melted together. By this Means, if the Weather prove fair and warm, your Vinegar will be fit for Use in three Weeks time. The use of the Glass, is, that in the heat of the Day it will fill itself with the Liquor, and when the cool of the Evening comes on, that Liquor will again be return'd into the Cask; by which means the Liquor will become sour much sooner than it will otherwise do. As soon as it is clear, draw it off.

To make Irish Usquebaugh; from Lord Capell's Receipt, when he was Lord Lieutenant of Ireland.

To every Gallon of French-Brandy, put one Ounce of Liquorice sliced, one Ounce of sweet Fennel-Seeds, one Ounce of Anniseeds, one Pound of Raisins of the Sun split and stoned, a quarter of a Pound of Figs split, two Drachms of Coriander-Seeds, let these infuse about eight or nine Days, and pour the Liquor clear off, then add half an Ounce of Saffron, in a Bag, for a Day or two, and when that is out, put in a Drachm of Musk. If when this Composition is made, it seems to be too high a Cordial for the Stomach, put to it more Brandy, till you reduce it to the Temper you like. This is the same Receipt King William had when he was in Ireland.

To make Green Usquebaugh.

To every Gallon of French-Brandy put one Ounce of Anniseeds, and another of sweet Fennel-Seeds, two Drachms of Coriander-Seeds. Let these infuse nine Days, then take of the Spirit of Saffron one Drachm, distil'd from Spirit of Wine, mix with the rest; infuse during this time some Liquorice sliced in Spirits, one Pound of Raisins of the Sun, and filter it; put then a Quart of pure White-Wine to a Gallon of the Liquor, and when all is mix'd together, take the Juice of Spinach boil'd, enough to colour it; but do not put the Spinach Juice into the Liquor till it is cold. To this put one Pound of white Sugar candied, finely powder'd, to a Gallon of Liquor.

To make a Cabbage-Pudding; from a Gentlewoman in Suffolk, as it was written by herself.

Sir,

You will excuse me, if I send you a Receipt for a Pudding, which is accounted so agreeable by my Acquaintance, that they think it worth a place in your Book, call'd, The Lady's Monthly Director, in the Management of the several Products of a Farm. It may as well be made by People of the lower as of the higher Rank.

Take a Piece of boil'd Beef, which is not always done enough; the Parts of it which are the least done, and chop them small: take as much boil'd Cabbage as you have Meat, and chop that as small as the Beef, season this with Pepper and Salt, and two or three Eggs beaten, to mix it up in the manner of farced Meat. Whatever else of seasoning you like, put it to it; and when it is made into a thin Paste, put the Mixture into a Linnen-Cloth, and boil it till it is enough, then serve it to the Table. But this Pudding is much better made with raw salt Beef and boil'd Cabbage, for is makes an extraordinary Paste, and is much softer and fuller of Gravey than the first.

N.B. If it is of the first Sort, the quantity of half a Quartern Loaf of fine Bread, may boil an Hour, and the latter Sort may boil an Hour and a half.

I am Yours, C. B.

Serve it with Butter and Gravey, with Lemon-Juice.

Of the Gourmandine-Pea, and its several Ways of Dressing.

P.S. You have mention'd in one of your Books a sort of Pea, which is call'd the Gourmandine, or Gourmand; which I suppose one may call, in English, the Glutton's Pea, because we eat all of it. For the Pods of it are very sweet and have no Film, or Skin in them, so that the Cods may be as well eaten as the Peas themselves; for which reason, when we have drawn the Strings from them, as we do from Kidney Beans, you may broil them upon a Gridiron, and serving them with gravey Sauce, they are very good; or to cut them into Pieces, and fry them with Mutton Steaks; or else you may fry them with Beef, and they are still better. But the best way, is to cut them cross, as you do French-Beans, and stew them in Gravey with a little Pepper and Salt, there is not any thing in my Opinion can eat better, and to be put in a gravey Soop, are incomparable; especially, if they have been parboil'd, and rubb'd dry, and then fry'd in burnt Butter.

The smallest dwarf crooked Sugar-Pea, that you recommend, is of the same quality, but rather better, for all these Uses, being somewhat sweeter than the former, and the Pod fuller of Pulp.

C. B.

To make Verjuice of Grapes, unripe, or of Crab-Apples; from J. S. Esq.

Take Grapes full grown, just before they begin to ripen, and bruise them, without the trouble of picking them from the Bunches; then put them in a Bag, made of Horse-Hair, and press them till the Juice is discharged; put this Liquor into a Stone Jar, leaving it uncover'd for some Days, then close it and keep it for use. This Verjuice is much richer than that of the Crab-Apple, and has a much greater influence in the way of Callico-Printing; but is harder to come at, few People being willing to gather their Grapes unripe; but where there is a large Quantity, it is well worth while. N.B. It will do well, if the Liquor is put into common Casks, but is nicer to the Palate if it is kept in glazed Jars of about eight or nine Gallons, and the Berries might then be pick'd from the Stalks. Keep this in a good Vault, and it will remain good for three or four Years as Verjuice; but a little more time will make it lose its Sourness, and it will become like Wine.

The Verjuice of Crab-Apples should be made of the wild Crab, which produces Thorns on its Branches, and brings a small round Apple, such as are common to be planted for Fences. I am the more particular in this, because some Apples, which are call'd Wildings, are supposed to have a sharp juice, but such will soften by keeping a Year or two. Take the Crabs, I speak of, in October, and grind them in a Mill, such as they use for making Cyder; then press the Liquor, and put it into Vessels like the former. Besides the agreeable Taste this has, as an Agresta at the Table, it is good for the Callico Printers.

A dry Travelling Powder, for Sauce, or Pocket-Sauce. From Mynheer Vanderport of Antwerp.

Take pickled Mango, and let it dry three or four Days in the Room; then reduce it to Powder by means of a Grater. Take of this Powder six Ounces, to which add three Ounces of Mushrooms, dry'd in a gentle Oven, and reduced to Powder, by beating in a Mortar; add to this, a Dram of Mace powder'd, half as much Cloves powder'd; or in their room, a large Nutmeg grated, and a Dram of black Pepper, beat fine: mix these Ingredients well together, and sift them through an open HairSieve: and half a Tea spoonful, or less, of the Powder will relish any Sauce you have a mind to make, though it be a quart or more, putting it into the Sauce, when it is warm. To this, one may add about nine Grains of sweet Basil, dry'd and powder'd; or of Summer sweet Marjoram powder'd. If we use this Sauce for Fish, it is extremely good, adding only a little Anchovy Liquor and white Wine.

To preserve Grapes all the Winter.

Take an Earthen Jar, well glaz'd, that will hold about six Gallons, or more; then dry some Oats, a little, in the Sun, upon Leads if you can, so that they have lost some part of their Moisture; lay them then two Inches thick, at the bottom of the Jar, and upon them, your Bunches of Grapes, gathered full ripe and dry; and if in any Bunch there is a rotted Grape, cut it off, and see that your Bunches are quite clean in their Berries; and besides, that all the Parts you have cut the Grapes from, are quite dry. Lay these on the Oats, and upon them put two Inches thick of Oats, dry'd as before; and on them again, a Layer of Grapes, and so the Oats upon them, continuing this Practice till the Vessel is full. Then take a Cork, well soak'd in Oil, and stop it close in the Jar, and seal it up with Pitch, Bees-Wax, and a little Rosin, melted together, and keep it in a cool Place; but to bury it three Foot under ground, is better.

A Collar of Mutton roasted. From St. Edmund's-Bury in Suffolk.

Take a Coast of Mutton, which is the Neck and Breast together, skin it in the whole Piece; then parboil it, and prepare a Mixture of Crumbs of Bread; Lemon-Peel grated, a little Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, or sweet Marjoram powder'd, which answers the End of most Spices, or else a little dry'd sweet Basil, which we call Bush-Basil, in the Gardens. To this, add the Yolks of six hard Eggs, beat in a Mortar, with six Ounces of Butter; mix this with the other Ingredients; then take the inside of the Mutton, and cover it with this Mixture, and roll it up as close as can be, and secure it in the Roll; so that it may be close for the Spit. It must be spitted through the Middle length-ways, and basted with Butter, salting it every now and then, and the Gratings of Crusts of Bred should be sprinkled upon it, with the seasoning above. Just before it is enough, when it is taken off the Spit, serve it with strong Gravey and Lemon or Orange Juice, and garnish with Lemon or Orange sliced; or when Oysters are in season, add fry'd Oysters: viz.

To fry Oysters for a Plate, or the Garnish of the foregoing Dish.

Make a Batter of Eggs and Flower, Crumbs of Bread, and a little Mace, beaten fine. Stew some large Oysters in their own Liquor gently, and wipe them dry, and flower them: dip them, after this, in the Batter, and fry them in very hot Butter, or Lard, or Seam of an Hog; and they will be incrustated, or cover'd, with a sort of Paste, which will be very agreeable, either for a Plate, or to garnish a Dish. If we have them alone, serve them with some of the Liquor, a little Butter, some White Wine, boiling first some Spices in the Liquor.

Of a Sturgeon, how it ought to be cured, for cold Meat, or dressed hot for the Table.

The Sturgeon is a Fish commonly found in the Northern Seas; but now and then, we find them in our great Rivers; the Thames, the Severn and the Tyne. This Fish is of a very large size; even sometimes to measure eighteen Foot in length. They are in great esteem when they are fresh taken, to be cut in Pieces, of eight or ten Pounds, and roasted or baked; besides, to be pickled and preserv'd for cold Treats: And moreover, the Caviar, which is esteem'd a Dainty, is the Spawn of this Fish.

To Cure, or Pickle, Sturgeon; from Hamborough.

Take a Sturgeon, gut it and clean it very well, within side, with Salt and Water; and in the same manner clean the Outside, wiping both very dry with coarse Cloths, without taking any of the great Scales from it: then take off the Head, the Fins and Tail; and if there is any Spawn in it, save it to be cured for Caviar. When this is done, cut your Fish into small Pieces, of about four Pounds each, and take out the Bones, as clean as possible, and lay them in Salt and Water for twenty-four Hours; then dry them well with coarse Cloths; and such Pieces as want to be rolled up, tie them close with Bass-strings, that is, the strings of Bark which compose the Bass Mats, such as the Gardeners use: for that being flat, like Tape, will keep the Fish close in the boiling, which would otherwise break, if it was tied with Pack-Thread. Strew some Salt over the Pieces, and let them lie three Days; then provide a piece of Wicker, made flat, aid wide as the Copper or Cauldron you will boil your Fish in, with two or three Strings, fasten'd to the Edges, the Ends of which should hang over the Edges of the Copper. The Pans we generally boil our Fish in, are shallow and very broad; then make the following Pickle, viz. one Gallon of Vinegar to four Gallons of Water, and to that quantity put four Pounds of Salt. When this boils, put in your Fish; and when it is boil'd enough, take it out, and lay it in single Pieces, upon Hurdles, to drain, or upon such Boards as will not give any extraordinary Taste to the Fish. Some will boil in this Pickle a quarter of a Pound of whole black Pepper.

When your Fish is quite cold, lay it in clean Tubs, which are call'd Kits, and cover it with the Liquor it was boil'd in, and close it up, to be kept for Use.

If at any time you perceive the Liquor to grow mouldy, or begin to mother, pass it through a Sieve; add some fresh Vinegar to it, and boil it: and when it is quite cold, wash your Fish in some of it, and lay your Pieces a-fresh in the Tub, covering them with Liquor as before, and it will keep good several Months. This is generally eaten with Oil and Vinegar.

To prepare the Caviar, or Spawn, of the Sturgeon.

Wash it well in Vinegar and Water, and then lay it in Salt and Water two or three Days; then boil it in fresh Water and Salt; and when it is cold, put it up for Use. This is eaten upon Toasts of white Bread with a little Oil.

To Roast a piece of fresh Sturgeon; from Mr. Ralph Titchbourn, Cook.

Take a piece of fresh Sturgeon, of about eight or ten Pounds; let it lie in Water and Salt, six or eight Hours, with its great Scales on: then fasten it on the Spit, and baste it well with Butter for a quarter of an Hour; and after that, drudge it with grated Bread, Flour, some Nutmeg, a little Mace powder'd, Pepper and Salt, and some sweet Herbs dry'd and powder'd, continuing basting and drudging of it till it is enough. Then serve it up with the following Sauce, viz. one Pint of thin Gravey and Oyster Liquor, with some Horse-Radish, Lemon-Peel, a bunch of sweet Herbs, some whole Pepper, and a few Blades of Mace, with a whole Onion, an Anchovy, a spoonfull or two of liquid Katchep, or some Liquor of pickled Walnuts, with half a Pint of White Wine: strain it off, and put in as much Butter as will thicken it. To this put Oysters parboil'd, Shrimps or Prawns pickt, or the inside of a Crab, which will make the same Sauce very rich; then garnish with fry'd Oysters, Lemon sliced, butter'd Crabs and fry'd Bread, cut in handsome Figures, and pickled Mushrooms. N.B. If you have no Katchep, you may use Mushroom Gravey, mention'd in the first Part of your Treatise, or some of the travelling Sauce in the same Book, or else a small Tea spoonful of the dry Pocket-Sauce.

To Roast a Collar, or Fillet, of Sturgeon; from the same.

Take a piece of fresh Sturgeon; take out the Bones, and cut the fleshy Part into Lengths, about seven or eight Inches; then provide some Shrimps, chopt small with Oysters; some Crumbs of Bread, and such seasoning of Spice as you like, with a little Lemon-Peel grated. When this is done, butter one side of your Fish, and strew some of your Mixture upon it; then begin to roll it up, as close as possible, and when the first Piece is rolled up, then roll upon that another, prepared as before, and bind it round with a narrow Fillet, leaving as much of the Fish apparent as may be. But you must remark, that the Roll should not be above four Inches and a half thick; for, else one Part would be done enough before the Inside was hardly warm'd: therefore, I have sometimes parboil'd the inside Roll before I began to roll it.

When it is at the Fire, baste it well with Butter, and drudge it with sifted Raspings of Bread. Serve it with the same Sauce as directed for the former.

A Piece of fresh Sturgeon boiled; from the same.

When your Sturgeon is clean, prepare as much Liquor to boil it in, as will cover it; that is, take a Pint of Vinegar to about two Quarts of Water, a stick of Horse-Radish, two or three bits of Lemon-Peel, some whole Pepper, a Bay-leaf or two, and a small handful of Salt; boil your Fish in this, till it is enough, and serve it with the following Sauce.

Melt a pound of Butter; then add some Anchovy Liquor; Oyster Liquor; some White Wine; some Katchep boil'd together with whole Pepper and Mace strain'd; put to this the Body of a Crab, and serve it with a little Lemon-Juice. You may likewise put in some Shrimps, the Tails of Lobsters, cut to Pieces, stew'd Oysters, or Cray-fish cut into small Bits: garnish with pickled Mushrooms and roasted or fry'd Oysters, Lemon sliced, and Horse-Radish scraped.

To make a _Sturgeon-_Pye; from the same.

Put to a quartern of Flour, two Pounds of Butter, and rub a third Part in; then make it into a Paste with Water, and roll the rest in at three times; then roll out your Bottom, and when it is in the Dish, lay some Butter, in pieces, upon it; and strew on that, a little Pepper and Salt. Then cut your Sturgeon in Slices cross-ways, about three quarters of an Inch thick, seasoning them with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg and Lemon-Peel grated, till your Pye is full, and on the Top lay on Pieces of Butter; then close it, and put in, just before it goes to the Oven, some White Wine and Water; and when it is bak'd, serve it: garnish it with sliced Lemon, or Orange.

To butter Crabs, from the same, for Garnish for the foregoing Dishes, or to be served by themselves.

Take middle-siz'd Sea-Crabs; break the Claws, and pick them; then take out the Body, free from all the Films and boney Parts; mix these together with some Pepper and Salt, to your mind; and when you have heated some White Wine over the Fire, put your Mixture into it, and stir it well together, and keep it warm in a gentle Oven, till you want it for Use: and just before you use it, pour into your Mixture a little melted Butter, and stir it well in; then clean your Shells, as well as possible, in hot Water, and put in your Mixture, and serve it to the Table hot. Or this Mixture may be serv'd on a Plate, upon Sippets, with Slices of Lemon or Orange. You should fry the Sippets.

The Manner of Pickling and Drying of Sheeps Tongues, or Hogs Tongues, which they call Stags Tongues; from a celebrated Practitioner of forty Years standing in London.

The Sheeps Tongues, which are commonly bought in the London Markets, are the best, if they are the Tongues of Wethers, fed in low Lands; being the largest, as they are taken from the largest sort of Sheep: but the Tongues of all Sorts of Sheep are good enough to be worth Pickling. But there is this Difference in the Value, that one large Tongue, well cured, will sell for three Pence, while the smallest Sort, cured in the same manner, will only sell for Three Half-pence, or a Penny. These Tongues are bought in Quantities of the Carcass Butchers, about Whitechappel, and other Butchers about Town, who kill from One hundred to Six hundred Sheep in a Day, each Butcher; and they know very well how to cut out the Tongues, with all their Parts to advantage: but they are afterwards trimm'd, when we receive them, into a more regular Shape; by those who cure them. When we are about this Work, there is one thing necessary to be observ'd, especially in hot Weather, but always it is best to be done; which is, cut the fleshy Part of the Bottom of the Tongue length-ways, and you will find, towards the Root, an Artery, which as soon as 'tis cut will bleed, and joining to that is a kind of Sweet-bread; take these out, as clean as you can, without disfiguring the Tongue; otherwise the Tongues will have an ungrateful Smell, and putrify: so, that if you deal by Wholesale, they will be return'd upon your hands, or be a trouble to the Family where they are made. Wash these well, after trimming, in Salt and Water, and then salt them with common Salt, well dry'd, in an Iron Kettle; one pound to half an Ounce of Salt-Petre, or Nitre, powder'd and well mix'd. Rub them well with the Mixture, and lay them close together in a Tub, or glaz'd earthen Vessel; and, after a few Days, when they are salt enough, take them from the Pickle, and when they are a little dry, tie them by the Tips, half a dozen together; and hang them up in a Chimney, where Deal Saw-Dust is burnt, till they are smoked enough, to be cured for boiling; then boil them in their Bunches, and let them dry for Sale. But to come a quicker Way to cure these Tongues, in the Pickle, as we do generally, is to make a Brine or Pickle in the following manner; that is, take a quantity of Water, and make a Pickle of it with common Salt, boil'd till it will bear an Egg; and then put in to every Pound of Salt, half an Ounce of Nitre, or Salt-Petre; and when the Pickle is cold, throw in your Tongues: which is the quickest Way. But for drying of them, the Smoking-Closets will do perfectly well, only we have not always those Conveniencies.

The Smoking-Closets,

It is to be observ'd, from your own Writings, That the Smoking-Closets are of great use in curing of Hams; and they are no less useful in drying of Tongues. I have, in a place, in the Country, one of them in a Garret, where we enclose a Room of ten foot Square, where is a Chimney, into which, by a Register, we let in the Smoke from the Fire, which is made on a Hearth, on the ground Floor; so that the Smoke then does not come too hot on the Tongues, and so preserves them from turning rusty. This is much the best way of curing them, and one may cure, in such a Room, fourscore dozen at a time. This Place, likewise, we cure our Hung-Beef in. We have try'd some Sheeps Tongues, salted only in a Brine of common Salt, and dry'd in such a Room; and they are very red, and well tasted, though there is no Salt-Petre used in the Pickle.

A Carp Pye. From Mrs. Mary Gordon.

Put to a quartern of Flour a pound and a half of Butter, rubbing a third part in; and make it into a Paste with Water: then roll in the rest of the Butter, at two or three times, and lay your Paste in the Dish, putting some bits of Butter, on the bottom Paste, with some Salt and Pepper, at discretion.

Then scale and gut your Carp, and wash it with Vinegar, and dry it well; and make the following Pudding for the Belly of the Carp: viz. Take the Flesh of an Eel, and mince it very small; add some grated Bread, some dry'd sweet Marjoram powder'd, two butter'd Eggs, a small Anchovy minced, a little Nutmeg grated, and some Salt and Pepper; mix this well, and fill the Belly of the Carp with it; and for the remaining Part, make it into Balls. Then cut off the Tail and Fins of the Carp, and lay it in the Crust, with the Balls about it; some Mushroom Buttons, Oysters with their Fins taken off, and some Shrimps, a few Slices of Lemon, and some thin Slices of fat Bacon, a little Mace and some bits of Butter: then close it, and before you put it into the Oven, pour in half a Pint of Claret. Serve this Pye hot.

To make Biscuits of Potatoes. From the same.

Boil the Roots of Potatoes, till they are tender; then peel them, and take their weight of fine Sugar, finely sifted; grate some Lemon-Peel on the Sugar; and then beat the Potatoes and Sugar together, in a Stone Mortar, with some Butter, a little Mace, or Cloves, finely sifted, and a little Gum Dragon, steeped in Orange-Flower-Water, or Rose-Water, till it becomes a Paste; then make it into Cakes with Sugar, finely powder'd, and dry them in a gentle Oven.

To make Biscuits of Red Beet-Roots; from the same; call'd the Crimson Biscuit.

Take the Roots of Red-Beets, and boil them tender; clean them, and beat them in a Mortar with as much Sugar, finely sifted; some Butter; the Yolks of hard Eggs, a little Flower; some Spice, finely beaten, and some Orange-Flower-Water, and a little Lemon-Juice. When they are well mix'd, and reduced to a Paste, make them into Cakes, and dry them in a slow Oven.

To boil Onions, that they shall lose their strong Scent, and become as sweet as Sugar in their Taste. From the same.

Take the largest Onions, and when you have cut off the Strings of the Roots, and the green Tops, without taking off any of the Skins, fling them into Salt and Water, and let them lie an Hour; then wash them in it, and put them into a Kettle, where they may have plenty of Water, and boil them, till they are tender. Then take them off, and take off as many Skins, as you think fit, till you come to the white Part, and then bruise them, if you will, and toss them up with Cream or Butter, if you use them with boil'd Rabbits, or under a roasted Turkey; but in the last Case, this Sauce should be serv'd in Basons, or on Plates. You may also bruise them, and strain them through a Cullendar, and then put Cream to them; which is esteem'd the nicest way for a Turkey; or if you keep them whole, you may warm them in strong Gravey, well drawn, with Spice and sweet Herbs; and when that is done, thicken the Gravey with burnt Butter, adding a little Claret, or White Wine; or, for want of that, a little Ale. This is a Sauce for a Turkey roasted, or roast Mutton, or Lamb.

Hungary-Water. From Mrs. Du Pont, of Lyons; which is the same, which has been famous, about Montpelier.

Take to every Gallon of Brandy, or clean Spirits, one handful of Rosemary, one handful of Lavender. I suppose the handfuls to be about a Foot long a-piece; and these Herbs must be cut in Pieces, about an Inch long. Put these to infuse in the Spirits, and with them, about an handful of Myrtle, cut as before. When this has stood three Days, distil it, and you will have the finest Hungary-Water that can be. It has been said, that Rosemary Flowers are better than the Stalks; but they give a faintness to the Water, and should not be used, because they have a quite different Smell from the Rosemary; nor should the Flowers of Myrtle be used in lieu of the Myrtle, for they have a scent ungrateful, and not at all like the Myrtle.

The Manner of making the famous Barcelona Snuff, as it was perform'd at the Lyon at Barcelona; from the same. This is also call'd Myrtle Snuff.

Take Seville Snuff, and prepare a dry Barrel, that has not had any Wine in it, or of any Scent; then cut the fresh Tops of Myrtle, and lay a layer of them at the bottom of the Cask, an Inch or two thick; then lay Snuff on that as thick, and lay on more Myrtle, two Inches; then again, put on Snuff, and so fill the Barrel in the same Manner, Stratum super Stratum. Then press it down with a Board, that will fit, and set three Weights upon it of a quarter of an Hundred a-piece, and let it stand four and twenty Hours; then turn it out, and sift it, flinging the Myrtle away; then put it into the Cask, as before, with fresh Myrtle, and serve it so three times, and sift it off. When this is done, add to every ten Pounds of Snuff, one pound of Orangery Snuff, and mix the whole very well, and after three days, put it into glaz'd Pots, well pressed into them, and stopt close; or else into Leaden Pots: which last is rather the best.

To make Orangery Snuff. From the same.

Take Seville Snuff and Orange-Flowers, fresh gather'd early in the Morning. And in a glaz'd Earthen Vessel, lay a Layer of the Flowers, then a Layer of Snuff, then a Layer of Flowers; and so on, till the Pot is full. Press it down very gently, and let the Mouth of the Pot be open for twenty-four Hours; then turn all out, and sift your Snuff, and lay in fresh Flowers, with Snuff, in the same manner as before; and at the end of four and twenty Hours sift it off again, and repeat the same the third time: being sure that the Flowers do not remain longer than twenty-four Hours, else they will sour the Snuff. In making this Snuff, you ought to allow at least a pound for Waste, for the Flowers will gather a great deal of it.

To make Orange-Butter. From the same.

Take Hogs-Lard (or as in some Places, call'd Hogs-Seame) wash this well in Spring-Water, beating it all the while with a piece of Wood; then take Orange-Flowers, fresh gather'd, and melt the Lard gently, and put about a quarter of a pound of the Flowers into a pound of Lard; let them remain ten Minutes, gently keeping them warm over the Fire; then strain it off, and when the Lard is again cold, beat it, and wash it with Orange-Flower-Water. Then melt it gently a second time, and put in fresh Flowers, in the same manner as before, and it will become of a yellow Colour; and, when it is cool, beat it again with a wooden Paddle and Orange-Flower-Water, and then put it into Pots for use. I should remark, that the Lard should be melted by putting it in a glazed Vessel, and melting it by putting the Vessel into boiling Water.

To make Flour of Mustard.

Those who live in the Country, or go to Sea, have frequent occasion to use Mustard, when there is no opportunity of getting it without extraordinary Trouble. It is a Sauce seldom thought on till the Minute we want it; and then, according to the old Way of making it, if we are lucky enough to have Mustard-Seed in the House, we must spend an Hour in the Ceremony of grinding it in a wooden Bowl, and an Iron Cannon-Bullet, according to the old Custom; or, if we have Mustard by us, ready made, if it has stood a Week, it is then of no value, if it is in small quantity. But to obviate this Difficulty, the Invention of grinding Mustard-Seed in a Mill, and thereby reducing of it to Flour, to be made fit for the Table in an instant, has been very well received: for by that Contrivance we have it always fresh, and full of brisk Spirits, and may only make just what we want without any spoil, as long as we keep a Stock of this Flour by us.

There are two Sorts of Mustard: viz. The white Sort, which is a large Grain, and not so strong; and the black Sort, which is a small Grain. That which I account the best, is from the wild Mustard, commonly found growing in Essex, which sells the best in the Markets. But from whatever Place we have it, regard should be chiefly had to its being free from Mustiness, which happens from the gathering the Seed wet, or in the Dew, and laying it close together before it is thresh'd. When this Seed is dry and sweet, grind it in a Mill, such as a Coffee-Mill; but the Mill must be fresh, and free from any Flavour or Taint: it should not indeed be used with any other thing. When you have ground a sufficient Quantity, pass it through a pretty open Sieve, and the next day put it into Vials with open Mouths, pressing it down close; stop them well, and keep it for use. When you want good Mustard for the Table, take a spoonful or two of this Flour, and as much boiling Liquor from the Pot, where Beef or Pork is boiled, as will make it of the Consistence you desire, stirring it well till it is mixt for your Purpose; or for want of such Liquor, boil a little Salt and Water together, and mix your Mustard-Flour with that; but in either of these Ways you must observe, that while your Mustard is warm, it will last better.

Some who do not love their Mustard overstrong, put equal Quantities of the white and black Mustard-Seed into the Mill, and then the Flour will not be so poignant to the Palate, and will have a brighter Look. If your Mill be set very sharp, the Flour will be so fine, that it need hardly be sifted.

To keep Anchovys good for a long time. From Mrs. M. N.

As the People in the Country have not always the conveniency of a Market near them, and the Anchovy is often required for Fish-Sauce; so should every Family keep a quantity by them. They should be large, and fresh brought over when we buy them, and feel firm to the Finger; neither should they have their Heads on, for they are then more apt to turn rancid and stink; and if we buy them in large Quantities, the frequent opening the Pot we keep them in will subject them to Change. But to prevent this, as the Liquor falls or shrinks, add Vinegar to them, which will continue them firm and free from Rotting for two Years.

To Roast a Shoulder of Mutton like Venison. From the same.

Take a Shoulder of Mutton, and skin it; then lay it in the fresh Blood of a Sheep, well stirr'd with a little Salt, as it is bleeding, for six or eight Hours. When you have done this, wash it in Water and Salt, and at last with Vinegar; or else you may steep it in an Infusion of warm Water, a Gallon, and half a quarter of an Ounce of Brazil-Wood rasp'd. You may steep it in this Liquor for four Hours, or else you may let it pass half an Hour in a gentle Oven with Water and Salt, and a small Piece of Brazil-Wood in it; either of which will give it a Colour: but I think the two last are better than the Blood. Roast it then for its time, basting it well with Water and Salt, till it is near enough, and then give it a little sprinkling of Salt and raspings of Bread, with some Flour well mixt. The Sauce for this is Claret boil'd with Cinnamon, sweetned with a little Sugar and Crumbs of Bread grated: but some will use the Claret, Sugar and Cinnamon without the Crumbs, in Saucers; as it is now the most common way in Noblemens Families to do Venison. But in the Dish with the artificial Shoulder of Venison, put a strong Gravey of Beef; or made of some of the Beef-Glue which you have recommended in your Book.

To make a Hare-Pye, for a cold Treat. From the same.

Take the Flesh of an Hare, and beat it in a Marble Mortar; then add as many butter'd Eggs as will almost equal the Quantity of the Hare's-Flesh. Mix these together with a little fat Bacon cut small, some Pepper and Salt, and a little powder of Cloves and Mace, or sweet Marjoram, to your Pleasure, and mix them very well; then lay in your Paste, and butter it well at the bottom with some seasoning, strew'd upon it, and lay in your Preparation, and cover it with Butter; then close it, and serve it when it is cold.

To preserve Ginger, and reduce the common Ginger for that purpose. From the same.

Take the large Roots of Ginger, and pour scalding Water upon them; and when that is cool, pour on some more scalding Water: and so repeat the same till the seventh or eighth time, or till you find the Ginger soft, and very much swell'd. Then warm some White Wine, and put it in that, for a few Hours, stirring it frequently while it is in any of the Liquors. Boil the last Liquor with fine Sugar to a Syrup; then put in your Ginger, and boil it for some time; then set it by till the next day, and repeat the boiling of the Ginger, adding every now and then a little White Wine, till the Ginger begins to look a little clear; and when it is cold, put it into Glasses, or glazed Jars, stopping it close.

Marmalade of Oranges and Lemons. From the same.

It is necessary to boil the Rinds of each in several Waters, till the Bitterness is lost, and that they are reduced to a tenderness, such as you like; then beat them in a Marble Mortar with as much of the Pulp of Golden-Pippins, or Golden-Rennets, as you think proper. Then take their weight of Sugar well powder'd, and a Pint of Water to every Pound of Sugar; boil your Sugar and Water, and when you have made a Syrup, put in your Pulp, and boil them all together till they are clear. Then put in the Juice of Oranges and Lemons, so much as will give you the Taste you desire; then boil it over again till it jellies, and put it into Glasses, Keep this in a dry Place.

To make Syrup of Mulberries. From the same.

Press out the Juice of Mulberries with your Hands, and pass it through a Sieve; and when it has stood to settle, pour off the clear, and put to it, its Weight of fine Sugar; put this into a Gallypot, and set that Pot into a Kettle of hot Water, which should be kept simmering near two Hours: stir the Syrup every now and then with a Silver Spoon, and take off what Scum may rise at Times, upon it; when it is enough, let it stand till it is quite cold, and then put it into clear dry Bottles with large Mouths, and stop them close. Keep this in a dry Place.

It is to be remark'd, that besides this Syrup is very cooling; its use is to colour stew'd Apples, or Puddings, or any sweet Preparation made with Flour or Fruit: for in itself it carries no Flavour that will be predominant over that of another Fruit.

Of Syrup of Raspberries, Currans, or other Fruits. From the same.

These Syrups are made like the former, by pressing out the Juice with the Hands; because if the Seeds are broken, they would have an ill Taste. Treat these in the making just in the same way as the former, and use them in the same manner, to colour any sweet Preparation; but remember, where you put any of the Raspberry Syrup, the Flavour of the Raspberry will prevail.

To make a _Raspberry-_Pudding. From the same.

Take a Pint of Cream, and grate into it four Penny Naples Biscuits; then take the Yolks of eight hard Eggs chopt and broken small; then beat four Eggs and put in two spoonfuls of Flour, and as much Powder of double-refined Sugar; then put in as much Syrup of Raspberries as you think proper to give it a Flavour and a Colour. If you find that your Composition is not thick enough, you may grate in more Naples Biscuit. Mix all this well together, and, if you will, make a fine Crust roll'd thin and laid in a Dish, and bake it in a gentle Oven.

Parsnip-Cakes. From the same.

Scrape some Parsnip-Roots, and slice them thin, dry them in an Oven and beat them to Powder; mix them then with an equal quantity of Flour, and make them up with Cream and Spices powder'd; then mould them into Cakes, and bake them in a gentle Oven. N.B. The sweetness of the Parsnip Powder answers the want of Sugar.

To make Raspberry bak'd Cakes. From the same.

Take Potatoes and boil them, and when they are peel'd, beat them in a Marble Mortar with half the Quantity of fine Sugar powder'd; then put in some of your Raspberry Syrup, till it is coloured with it, and make up your Cakes in fine Sugar powder'd. Then dry them, or bake them, in a gentle Oven, Note, these Cakes should be made thin.

Of Ortolans. From Mr. Renaud.

The Ortolan is a Bird brought from France, and is fed in large Cages with Canary-Seeds till they become a lump of Fat; and when they are fully fatted, they must be killed, or else they will feed upon their own Flesh. When we kill them, you must take them by the Beak, and holding it close between your Finger and Thumb, the Bird will be stifled in about a Minute; then pick off the Feathers even those of the Head, and pass a fine Skewer through them, just under the Wings, and roast them quick; setting small Toasts under them to drip upon. Serve them with strong Gravey, and as much White Wine hot, and garnish with Slices of Lemon and Raspings of Bread sifted and toasted before the Fire.

To make Sugar Comfits of any Sort. From Mrs. Anne Shepherd of Norwich.

The Seeds which we generally make Comfitts of, are Carraways, Coriander and Anise-Seeds; these, when they are cover'd with Sugar, are call'd Comfits, (Confects).

The Instruments to be employ'd for this Use, are first a deep-bottom'd Bason of Bell-Metal, or Brass, well tinn'd, to be hung over some hot Coals.

Secondly, You must have a broad Pan to put hot Coals in.

Thirdly, Provide a Brass Ladle to pour the Sugar upon the Seeds.

Fourthly, You must have a Brass Slice to scrape off the Sugar that may chance to hang upon the side of the hanging Bason.

Then take care that your Seeds are dry, or dry them well in your hanging Pan.

To every quarter of a Pound of Seeds use two Pounds of fine Sugar beaten; unless to Anise-Seeds, use two Pounds of Sugar to half a Pound of Seeds.

To begin the Work, put three Pounds of fine Sugar into the Bason with one Pint of Water, to be stirr'd well together till the Sugar is wet; and boil it gently, till the Sugar will rope from the Ladle like Turpentine, and it is enough. Keep this however warm, upon warm Embers, that it may run. freely in a ropy Way from the Ladle upon the Seeds.

When this is ready, move the Seeds briskly in the Bason, and fling on them half a ladle-full at a time of the hot Sugar, keeping the Seeds moving for some time; which will make them take the Sugar the better, and be sure to dry them well after every covering, by moving the Bason, and stirring the Comfits. In an Hour, you may make three Pounds of Comfits: you will know when they are coated enough with Sugar, by their becoming as large as you would have them. There is no certain Rule, but our own Fancies, for the Size of them. Note, Till they are as you would have them, cast on more melted Sugar, as at first, and keep them stirring and shaking in the Pan, drying them well after every Coat of Sugar.

If you would have ragged or rough Comfits, make your Sugar so liquid, that it will run from the Ladle; and let it fall upon the Seeds about a Foot and a half high. Let it be very hot, for the hotter it is, the rougher will be your Comfits; and for all that, the Comfits will not take so much Sugar as one may imagine from their Appearance. Put on at each time only one Ladle-full, and in ten times repeating it your Comfits will be perfectly well coated.

For plain Comfits; let not your melted Sugar be too hot at first, nor too thick; neither pour it on the Seeds too high: but the last two or three Coverings may be thicker and hotter.

As for Coriander-Seeds, which are large, three Pounds of Sugar will only cover a quarter of a Pound of them.

While your are at work, you should keep your melted Sugar in good Temper, that it may not gather into Lumps, or burn to the bottom of the Pan; and to prevent its growing too thick at any time, put to it a spoonful or two of Water, gently stirring it now and then with your Ladle, keeping your Fire very clear under your Pan. When your Comfits are made, put them upon Papers in Dishes, and set them before the Fire, or in a declining Oven, which will make them look of a Snow white; when they are cool, put them in Boxes, or in crystal Bottles.

To make Comfits of various Colours. From the same.

If you would have your Comfits of a red Colour, infuse some red Saunders in the Water till it is deep colour'd enough; or else take some Cochineel, and infuse it till the Liquor is red enough; or put some Syrup of Mulberries with Water to the Sugar.

If of a yellow Colour; use Saffron in Water, which you are to mix with the Sugar.

If Green; take the Juice of Spinach, and boil it with the Sugar: so will your Comfits be of the several Colours above-mention'd.

To preserve Orange and Lemons-Peels in Jelly. From the same.

Cut some of the fairest Oranges and Lemons in halves; then scoop out all the Pulp and Inside, and boil them in several Waters till they are so tender, that you may pass a Straw through them; then wash them in cold Water.

Boil then the following Preparation: viz. The Quantity of a Quart of Water to every Pound of Peel; and in it some thin Slices of Golden-Pippins, or Golden Rennets, till the Water becomes slippery. Then to this Water, add as much Sugar as will boil it to a strong Syrup; then put in your Peels and scald them, and set them by till the Day following, and boil them again till the Syrup will jelly. Then put your Peels into your Glasses, and put into your Syrup the Juice of three large Oranges, and one Lemon strain'd, and boil it till it will make a stiff Jelly, and pour it upon your Peels. When this is quite cold, then put Papers over the Glasses, and keep them in a dry Place.

You may also pare the Rinds, in Rings or Slices, and boil them as before; and in every respect treat them as you are directed to preserve the halves of Oranges.

To preserve Orange-Flowers in Jelly.

Gather your Orange-Flowers, in the Morning early, when they are just open, and take the Leaves of them. Boil these gently in two or three Waters, passing them every time through a Sieve: shift the Waters often, to take out the too great bitterness, but don't boil them too soft, nor to lose their Whiteness. When this is done, make a strong jelly'd Syrup with Water and fine Sugar, and add some Juice of Lemon or Orange to it; then pour it on the Leaves of the Orange-Flowers; and when it is cold, cover your Glasses with Paper. N.B. You may thicken your Syrup with the Pulp of Pippins.

_Lemon-_Cakes. From Mrs. Anne Shepperd of Norwich.

Take out the Pulp of Lemons, as little bruis'd as possible; then boil some Sugar to a candied height, and put to it the Pulp and Juice, and stir it quickly; then put it into a Stove or into hot Sand. When you observe that it begins to candy on one side, then turn them out of the Glasses with a wet Knife on the other side, and let that candy too, in the same manner; when all is done, put them in a Box between Papers, and keep them in a dry Place.

Tripe of Eggs. From Mr. Fontaine.

Take the Whites of Eggs, and beat them very well in a Porringer; prepare then some hot Water and Vinegar with a little Salt, and then put in the Eggs, till they are hard; then cut them in pieces about an Inch square, and then take some White Wine, and as much Water and some Salt. Put this in a Pan, and heat it over the Fire with a little Parsley, an Onion and some Spice; when it is hot, serve it up with Butter and Mustard, and it will eat like Tripe: or else you may serve it like a Ragoust, with the following Sauce; viz.

Sauce for the Artificial Tripe in Ragoust. From the same.

Take strong Gravey made of Beef, and the Ingredients which are mention'd in the drawing of Gravey. Warm it with a little White Wine, and thicken the Sauce with burnt Butter: then, when the Eggs are warm'd, pour the Sauce over them.

Bacon Froize, or Fraise. From Mrs. Bradbury.

Cut fat Bacon in small Pieces, about an Inch long, and then prepare ten or a dozen Eggs well beat; put in a little Milk, some Spice, at pleasure, and some Flour; then put some Lard or Seam of an Hog into a Pan, and make it very hot; and when it is so, pour in the Mixture, and clap a dish over it, after you have thrown some of the Seam upon it. When the Froize is done enough on one side, turn it with the Dish, and fry it till it is quite enough. Then serve it with a garnish of sliced Lemons and a little Butter, first letting it drain.

Clary and Eggs, From the same.

Take eight or ten Eggs; beat them well in a Porringer; then take some Clary Leaves, and chop them small; add a little Pepper and Salt, and some Onion chopt small. This Mixture must be fry'd in hot Lard or Hog-Seam, and serve it with Slices of Lemon.

To stew a Pig. From the same.

Roast a Pig till it is hot; then take off the Skin and cut it in pieces; then take some White Wine and good Gravey, and stew it with an Onion, some Pepper, Salt, some Nutmeg, a little sweet Marjoram, and some Elder Vinegar, with some Butter; and when it is enough, lay it upon Sippits, and garnish with sliced Lemon.

To stew a Pig another way. From the same.

Roast a Pig till you can take off the Skin; cut it then in small pieces, and stew it in White Wine, with a bunch of sweet Herbs, an Onion, some Pepper and Salt, a few Cloves, or a little sweet Marjoram powder'd. When it is enough, strain off the Liquor it was boil'd in, and in some of that put some Mushrooms, and thicken it with Cream, and it will make an excellent Dish. You may garnish it with sliced Lemon and pickled Barberries.

To make a Fricassee of Sheeps Trotters.

Clean them very well from the Hair; then wash them in Vinegar and Water; then take out the Bones, and boil them in Salt and Water with a little Lemon-Peel. When they are hot, give them either of the following Sauces. For a white Sauce, take the following: viz.

Take some Water, with some Salt, a few sweet Herbs, some whole Pepper, some Lemon-Peel and a bit of Horse-Radish, a Shallot, and a little White Wine. When it is strong enough relish'd, then strain it off, and take a little of it, and mix it with Butter to thicken it, or Cream would do better, about half a Pint: pour this over the Sheeps Trotters with a few Capers, and serve it up with Slices of Lemons.

A brown Fricassee of Sheeps Trotters.

Dress them as before, and when they are fit for Sauce, then take some Hogs Lard, and make it very hot in a Pan, then put in your Trotters, when they are well covered with Flour, and when they are done enough, pour over them a Sauce made of Gravey, some Claret and some Mushrooms thickned with burnt Butter. This will make a good brown Fricassee; and serve it up with a garnish of Lemon sliced, Barberries pickled, some raspings of Bread lifted, and toasted before the Fire.

To make a Lumber-Pye. From Exeter.

Take a Pound of lean Veal, free from Strings, shred it very small, season it with Cloves and Mace powder'd, some powder of dry'd sweet Herbs, some Lemon-Peel grated, some Pepper and Salt, three large spoonfulls of grated Bread, a little Juice of Lemon, and five or six butter'd Eggs. Mix these Ingredients well together into a Paste or as a farced Meat for Balls about the Bigness of small Wallnuts; then take two or three large Veal Sweat breads, and cut them in pieces; then provide a Pint of Mushroom Buttons well clean'd, and the Yolks of eight hard Eggs cut in halves, a dozen Coxcombs well scalded and clean'd: lay these with a seasoning of Pepper and Salt in a good Paste that covers the bottom of your Dish; first laying bits of Butter on the Paste at the Bottom. Some will put about half a Pound of Currans into this Pye; but every one to their Fancy. When your Ingredients are disposed in your Dish, lay on about four Ounces of Marrow, and the quantity of six Ounces of Butter, and then close it.

Just before you set it in the Oven, pour into your Pye half a Pint of Water; and as soon as you take it out, pour in half a Pint of White Wine warm'd, and serve it hot.

To make Orange or Lemon Tarts. From Mrs. J. S.

Take the Rinds of half a score Oranges or Lemons, and salt them four Hours; then boil them in four or five Waters till they are tender, and beat them in a Marble Mortar till they are reduced to a Pulp; then squeeze in the Juice of as many of the Oranges or Lemons as you think fit, and sweeten the whole very well with fine Sugar, and boil it till it is thick, stirring it while it boils, that it may not burn; then let it stand till it is cold, and put it into your Paste. When you serve it, strew fine Sugar over it. Serve it cold.

To make Lemon Cheesecakes. From Mrs. M.N.

Grate the Rind of a large Lemon, into the Yolks of eight raw Eggs, being first very well beat; then add a quarter of a Pound of fine Sugar well beaten and sifted, and four Ounces of fresh Butter; warm these gently over a Fire, keeping it stirring all the while till it begins to thicken; then take it off, and put it in the Coffins made of puff Crust, and bake your Cheesecakes in a gentle Oven.

To make Orange or Lemon Cheesecakes, another way. From the same.

Take the Rind of a large Lemon or Orange, and boil it in four or five Waters till it is quite tender, and free from its Bitterness; then either shred it or beat it very fine in a Marble Mortar with the Yolks of eight hard Eggs, six Ounces of Loaf-Sugar finely powder'd, and a spoonfull of Orange-Flower-Water: mix this then with as much Cream, and two Eggs beat, as will render it of the Consistence of Cheesecake-meat before it is baked; then put it into your Coffins, and bake them in a gentle Oven. You may put in Currans if you please, but they are generally omitted: however, if you like to have them, let them be first plump'd a little over the Fire in Sugar and Water.

The best way for these Cheesecakes is to make the Coffins in Patty-Pans, and fill them with the Meat near an Inch thick.

The Proportions mention'd above will serve to direct for a large quantity.

To make Cheesecakes. From Lady G.

Take a Quart of tender Curd, and drain it from the Whey; then break it small; then take a quarter of an Ounce of Mace finely powder'd, and eight Ounces of fine Sugar sifted, eight Yolks of Eggs well beaten, four Ounces of blanched Almonds beat fine in a Marble Mortar with Rose-Water, or Orange-Flower-Water, and grate four penny Naples Biscuits into a Pint of Cream, and boil them together over a gentle Fire, stirring it all the while till it is as thick as an hasty Pudding; then mix with it eight Ounces of Butter, and put it to the Curd, but not too hot: mix then all well together, and put it in your Paste.

A Sorrel Tart. From the same.

Wash some Spinach and Sorrel Leaves in two or three Waters, for they are apt to gather Dirt; then either shred them, and squeeze the Juice out through a Cloth, or else beat them in a Mortar of Marble, and strain off the Juice; about half a Pint of Juice will be enough: then shred into it about a Quart measure of the same Herbs, and add six Ounces of fine Sugar beaten, and some Spice, with the Yolks of six hard Eggs bruised, and well mix'd with it, and two Eggs raw well beaten; then put in half a Pint of Cream, stirring it well, and put it in a Paste, then bake it in a very gentle Oven. When it is done, sift on some fine Sugar, and garnish with Orange and Lemon sliced; you may put in some Orange-Flower-Water, if you think convenient.

To make Umble Pye. From Mr. Thomas Fletcher of Norwich.

Take the Umbles of a Deer and boil them tenderly, and when they are cold, chop them as small as Meat for minc'd Pyes, and shred to them as much Beef-Suet, six large Apples, half a Pound of Sugar, a Pound of Currans, a little Salt, and as much Cloves, Nutmeg and Pepper powder'd as you see convenient; then mix them well together, and when they are put into the Paste, pour in half a Pint of Sack, the Juice of two Lemons and an Orange: and when this is done, close the Pye, and when it is baked, serve it hot to the Table.

To Stew Peaches. From the same.

Take Peaches when they are so ripe that they begin to smell; then pare them and slit them, and the Sorts I recommend will leave the Stones. Put these in a Silver Plate, or on such a one as will not communicate any ill taste to them, and pour over them a Syrup made of Pippins, Water and Sugar boil'd till it is a Jelly, and add a little White Wine; then stew them gently over a clear Fire till they are tender; and serve them with fine Sugar sifted upon them. In some Cafes they pour Cream upon them.

Red Peach Tarts. From the same.

Take your Peaches, as before directed, and order them as you did before in paring them and slitting them; then lay them into the Coffins, and when you have sifted on them some fine powder'd Loaf-Sugar, pour over them some Syrup of Raspberries or Mulberries, and bake them gently: they will be tender and very highly flavoured, if you put Raspberries to them, and finely colour'd; but to have them more of their own Taste, put Syrup of Mulberries to them, and they will be finely colour'd. The Coffins or Crust ought to be made of melting Paste, with fine Sugar in it.

Bitters to be drank with Wine.

Take a Quart of clean Spirit, or good Brandy, and put into it an Ounce of Gentian Root sliced, one Ounce and a half of dry'd Orange-Peel, and one Drachm of Virginia Snake-Root; add to this half a Drachm of Cochineel, and half a Drachm of Loaf-Sugar; which last will heighten the Bitter to admiration. A little of this Bitter in a Glass of White Wine creates an Appetite.

To Stew Wild-Ducks. From Amsterdam.

When your Ducks are ready prepar'd for the Fire, rub their Inside with Pepper, Salt, and a little powder of Cloves, a Shallot or two, with a lump of Butter in the Belly of each of them; then lay them in an earthen glazed Pan, that will just hold them, and put three Quarters of a Pound of Butter under and over your Ducks: then pour in a Pint of Vinegar, and as much Water with some Salt, Pepper, some Lemon-Peel, some Cloves whole, a bunch of sweet Herbs, and covering the Pan close, let them stew three or four Hours. Then pass the Liquor through a Sieve, and pour it over your Ducks; and serve them hot with garnish of Lemon sliced and Raspings of Bread sifted. This Method serves likewise for Easterlings, Widgeons, Teal and such like.

To Stew a salted Brisket of Beef. From Mr. La Fontaine.

To a Pound of common Salt, put one Ounce of Salt-Petre, and rub your Beef well with it, and let it lie a Week; then lard the Skin of it with Bacon-Fat, and lay it in a Stew-pan that will shut close. Cut a Lemon in half with its Rind, and lay a-part on each side the Beef; then put in a bunch of sweet Herbs, some whole Cloves, half a Nutmeg sliced, some Pepper, an Onion, or three or four Shallots, half a Pound of Butter, a Pint of Claret, and a Quart of Water; shut your Pan close, and let it stew gently five or six Hours till it is very tender.

Then having some boil'd Turnip cut in dice, flour them and fry them brown; then pour off the Liquor the Beef was stew'd in, and having passed it through a Sieve, thicken it with burnt Butter, and mix your fry'd Turnips with it, and pour all together over your Beef; garnish with Lemon sliced, and Raspings of Bread sifted, and serve it hot, it is an excellent Dish.

Neck of Mutton ragou'd. From the same.

Take a Neck of Mutton clean from Bones, and strip it from the Skin; salt it a little, and let it lie till the next day. In the mean while, bake the Bones with a slice or two of fat Bacon, a Faggot of sweet Herbs, some Spice, a little Salt and some Lemon-Peel, with half a Pint of Water, and half a Pint of Claret, to cover them; then lay your Mutton in a Pan, and when your baked Gravey is passed through a Sieve, pour it into the Pan to the Mutton; but first lard the fat Part of the Mutton with Lemon-Peel, and the leaner Part with Fat of Bacon; then strew some grated Bread and Spice over the Mutton, which will not be cover'd with the baked Gravey; and when you have closed your Pan, stew it gently four Hours. Then lay it in the Dish, and when you have thickned the Sauce with burnt Butter, put a Pint of Mushroom Buttons, either fresh and parboil'd, or pickled, into it, and toss them up till they are hot; then pour them all over your Meat, and serve it hot, garnish'd with Lemon sliced, red Beet-Roots pickled and sliced, Capers, and Horse-Radish scrap'd.

Stew'd Beef in Soup. From the same.

Take four Pounds of Beef, indifferently lean, and cut it in eight or ten Pieces. Put these into a Pan that may be close cover'd, and then about three Quarts of Water, and a Pint of White Wine, some Pepper and Salt, some Powder of dry'd sweet Marjoram, a few Cloves powder'd, half a dozen small Turnips cut in Dice, a Carrot or two cut in the same manner, the white Part of a large Leek shred small, some Leaves of white Beet, two Heads of Sallery shred, and a Piece of Bread-Crust burnt; cover close, and stew this for six Hours, and serve it hot. You may garnish with Lemon sliced.

To dress the Liver and Crow of an Hog. From Mrs. Johnson in Devereux-Court.

However this Dish may seem dispiseable, yet if it is well dresed, few of the savoury Dishes exceed it. The Liver and Crow of an Hog, with the Sweet-Breads, should be used presently after the Hog is kill'd, and the Liver cut in Lumps, twice as big as a Walnut, and not in thin Pieces as most do; for then they will become hard in the Dressing. The Crow must likewise be cut in Slips about the breadth of two Fingers, and so must the Sweet-Breads; then parboil the Pieces of Liver, and make a thick Batter of Flour, Water and Eggs, mixing a little Salt with it, and prepare some red Sage shred very fine; some grated Bread, and some Pepper beaten: mix these together, and when you have some Butter, or Lard, very hot in your Frying-Pan, dip the Crow and Sweet-Bread in the Batter, and immediately dip your Pieces in the Mixture of Bread, Sage, &c. and throw them into the Pan. When these are enough, lay them to drain before the Fire, and then dip the Bits of Liver into the Batter; and after that, into the crumb'd Bread, and give them a turn or two in the Pan, over a quick Fire: then drain them like the others, and serve them hot with Butter and Mustard.

Sea-Larks or Oysters, roasted on Spits or Skewers. From the same.

Take large Oysters, and wash them from Dirt; then dip them in Batter made with Milk, Flour, Powder of Mace, some Eggs and a little Pepper; then dip them again in Crumbs of Bread grated, and some Mace powder'd, and put them on a fine Skewer, broad-side to broad-side, or upon Silver Lark Spits; and when they are at the Fire, flour them well, and baste them with Butter till they are enough. Prepare for them, while they are Roasting, the following Sauce: Take Crumbs of Bread, a little Pepper and Salt, and a Blade or two of Mace with a little Nutmeg, and boil them in some of the Oyster-Liquor till the Bread is tender and like a Pulp, and tastes well of the Spice; then put in a Glass of White Wine, and mix it well, and serve it hot, in a Plate, with the roasted Oysters over the Sauce.

A Shoulder of Mutton or Lamb, roasted with a Farce of Oysters. From Mr. Norman, late Cook in Norfolk.

Take a Shoulder of Mutton or Lamb, of the smallest size, and slip up the Skin almost to the Leg-Joint; then cut the Flesh from the Bone, on the upper side, and mince it very small, take part of that, and as many Oysters parboil'd without their Fins, and chopt a little; then have some Mace powder'd, and a little Salt and Pepper, with some grated Lemon-Peel, and some grated Bread, with the Yolk of an Egg, or two; and make this into a Paste, and lay it into the Places where the Flesh was taken out; and you may add to this Paste a little Fat of Bacon cut small, or a little Butter. Then skewer the Skin on all sides, over the Farced Meat, and lard the Skin and the fleshy Parts below with Lemon-Peel, and some will lard in Lemon Thyme likewise. Then fix it on a Spit with Skewers, and roast it, well basted with Butter and well floured. The Sauce for this should be stew'd Oysters, some Mace, stew'd Mushrooms, a little Gravey, and some White-Wine, with Crumbs of Bread; then serve it hot, garnish'd with sliced Lemon, and Red Beet-Root pickled and sliced.

Stew'd Veal, with white Sauce; from the same.

Take some Lean of a Leg of Veal, and cut it in thick Slices, then stew them in Water and a little Salt, with some Mace, and a little Nutmeg, and a Bunch of sweet Herbs. When they are almost stew'd enough with the Gravey in them, put to the Liquor they were stew'd in, a Glass or two of White Wine, and a little Lemon Juice, or Orange Juice, with a little Mushroom Gravey, or Liquor of stew'd Mushrooms. When this is done, have some Mushroom Buttons, that have been stew'd white in their own Liquor, and Spice, with a Bay-Leaf; then strain the Liquor, and put some in the Sauce: and when it is hot, put some thick Cream to it, with the Mushrooms; and then serve it hot with a Garnish of sliced Lemon.

Hard Pease-Soup. From the same.

There are many ways of making Pease-Soup. In great Families it is sometimes made of Beef, but a Leg of Pork is much preferable; and in smaller Families the Bones of Pork, as they are called. And the Shin and Hock of a Leg of Pork, after they have made Sausages, may be had at the Sausage-Houses: these boil'd for a long time, will afford a strong Jelly Broth, but they are hard to be met with. However, when they are to be had, you have the Directions for a Broth. Then pass the Broth, hot, through a Sieve, and put into it half a Pint of slit Pease to a Quart of Liquor; or a Quart of whole Pease to three Quarts of Liquor. The Difference between one and the other, is, the slit Pease will open in the Liquor, when we boil it, and the other ought to be broken through a Cullender, when they are boil'd: but the slit Pease are the best; and when you put them into the Liquor to boil, add to every Quart of Liquor as much Sallery as you think proper, cut small; some powder of dry'd Mint, some powder of dry'd sweet Marjoram, some Pepper, and some Salt, to your mind, and let these boil till the Sallery is tender. This is to be done, if we boil a Leg of Pork, after the Pork is out of the Pot; but if we make the Soup from the Bones, boil these Ingredients afterwards in the Liquor. When you serve it, put a French Role in the middle of the Dish, and garnish the Border of the Dish with rasp'd Bread sifted. Some put in All-spice powder'd, which is very agreeable: and one might add the Leaves of white Beets, And in serving, put in toasted Bread, cut in Dice; but the last is out of fashion.

To make green _Pease-_Pottage, with Milk. From the same.

Take a Quart of green Pease shell'd, and boil three Quarts or two Quarts of Milk, as you please to have them thick with Pease; and add some Pepper largely beaten, a little Salt, some dry'd Mint, and sweet Marjoram in powder, and a little whole Spice beaten. Boil these together till the Cream rises, and then stir it, and serve it hot. N.B. The Pease should be boil'd first, if there is any opportunity; and for that Reason, if when we have a Dish of Pease, we leave any, they may be put into the Milk, and boil'd the Morning following; and indeed it is the best to have the Pease boil'd first.

To make an artificial Crab or Lobster. From Mr. F. of Buckingham.

I Suppose you have by you the large Shells of Sea-Crabs clean'd; then take part of a Calf's Liver, boil it and mince it very small, and a little Anchovy Liquor, and but very little, to give it the Fish-taste. Mix it well with a little Lemon Juice, some Pepper, and some Salt, with a little Oil, if you like it, and fill the Shells with it; and then the outside Parts of the Liver, being a little hard, will feel to the Mouth like the Claws of the Crab broken and pick'd, and the inner Parts will be soft and tender, like the Body of a Crab. One may serve this cold, and it will deceive a good Judge, if you do not put too much of the Anchovy Liquor into it. It is very good cold; but if you would have it hot, take the following Receipt.

To make artificial hot butter'd Sea-Crabs.

Have the great Shells of Crabs clean, and prepare some Liver, as before; or it you cannot get Calf's Liver, get a Lamb's Liver, or a young Sheep's Liver will do tolerably well. Boil these, and shred them as directed before, and put a little Anchovy Liquor to them; then add a little White Wine, some Pepper and Salt at pleasure, and some other Spice at discretion, with Butter necessary to make it mellow, over a gentle Fire, or a little Sallet Oil, if you like Oil. Then add a little Lemon Juice in the Shells, stirring the Mixture together. Then serve them up hot with Lemon sliced.

To make artificial Crabs. From M. De la Port of Lyons in France.

Take some of the White of a roasted or boil'd Chicken's Breast, and shred it very small; then add some Roots of Potatoes boil'd and beat into Pulp. Mix these together, and grate a little Lemon-Peel upon it, and add a little Anchovy Liquor to it, with some Oil; and put a little Lemon-juice to it, or Vinegar, with some Pepper and Salt, serve it upon Sippits, garnish'd with sliced Lemon. These may be butter'd in Shells as the Former, but the first is rather the best.

To make artificial Lobsters. From the same.

Practise the same Method with either of the former; and to imitate the Tail of the Lobster, put in the Tails of Shrimps, Buntings, Prawns or Cray-fish; the last cut in pieces, and serve them either upon Sippets in a Plate, or in the large Shell of the Lobster.

N.B. This is a sort of Salmy, or Salmy-Gundy, as they call it in England; but is very much like the Thing we want: and I think, if the Shrimps, or others, were put into the first, it would make it better than putting in the Anchovy Liquor; but if they are to imitate a Crab, they must, (i.e. the Shrimps or Prawns) be chopt very small.

To imitate Cherry-Brandy, without Cherries, very Good.

Take a clean Spirit, or some good French Brandy, one Gallon, and infuse in it the Tops of Laurel, one good handfull till it tastes like the Kernels of Cherries; then put in a quantity of Mulberry Syrup, enough to colour it, and make it pleasant to the Taste. A good Judge will not find the difference between the Right and the Wrong. N.B. When the Brandy is strong enough of the Laurel-Buds, pour it off.

To make Cherry Brandy. From Mr. Cent-Livre.

Take black Cherries, when they are at the cheapest, and pulling them from the Stalks, put them into a Cask of Brandy, a Pound to each Quart of Brandy, and one Pound of fine Sugar to each Gallon. Let it stand for some time, and draw it off. It will be very rich.

To make Ratafia. From the same.

Take the Kernels of Apricots, to do it in the highest way, about one hundred and fifty, and bruise them a little; then put them into three or four Quarts of Brandy, and let them steep four or five Days: then strain them off, and add as much fine Sugar powder'd, as will make it sweet to your Taste. If you find that the Brandy is too strong of the Kernels, put some more Brandy to it before you sweeten it.

Memorandum, If you cannot get Apricot or Peach-Stones, enough for your use, you may use the Kernels of Plum-Stones, Cherry-Stones, or Prunes, and they will make little difference, in great quantities. Break the Shells, and put in Shells and all.

To make Artificial Ratafia.

To a Gallon of Spirits or Brandy, put in two handfuls of the Buds of young Laurel-Branches; infuse this till the Liquor is of a taste as you would have it: then pour off the Liquor, and sweeten it to your Fancy with fine Sugar powder'd. This is a way that a Distiller, who is dead, practised a long while, as well as the making of Gin, or Geneva Brandy, with infusing the Tops of the Juniper Plant in common Spirits. These I told him of, and it is now at my own disposal, and therefore give it to the World. The Ratafia tastes exactly as if the Kernels of Apricot or Plum-Stones had been used.

To make Salmy, or with us Salmy-Gundy. From Lady M.

Take the Breast of a Turkey, a Chicken, or the Lean of some Veal that has been roasted rather than boil'd; but if that happens, it will still do. But however it is, take none of the Skin, nor any Fat. Mince this very small about half a Pound, and then take off the Skin of a pickled Herring, and mince the Flesh of it very small, or for want of that, cut the Flesh of some Anchovys very small; then cut a large Onion small, an Apple or two as small as the rest. Mix these Meats together and laying them in little Heaps, three on a Plate, let some whole Anchovys curl'd or upright, in the Middle, and garnish with sliced Lemon, Capers and other Pickles, with red Beet-Roots pickled and sliced. This to be served cold; and when you eat it, use Oil, Vinegar, and a little Mustard.

To serve up pickled Herrings. From the same.

Take large pickled Herrings, take off the Skin; then take the Flesh from the Bones, on each side, all in one piece, crossing them every half-inch. Then lay the Parts next the Head, in the middle of the Plate, spreading their Bodies to the outside, like a Star, garnishing them with the Roots of red Beets sliced, Lemon sliced, and Berberries pickled. This is commonly eaten with Vinegar, and Bread and Butter, but Onion and Pepper is sometimes used.

Marmalade of Peaches. From the same.

Take Peaches, well grown and almost ripe; pare them, and take their Flesh clean from the Stones. Lay them with a little Water into a Stew-Pan, and add three Quarters of their weight of fine Sugar powder'd. Let this stew till the Peaches are tender, and then mash them with a Spoon, letting them boil gently all the while, till the Whole becomes thick, almost like a Paste; then take it out, and cool it in a China Dish, or earthen glazed Pan; and when it is cold, put it into Glasses, and cover them over with white Paper.

White _Peach-_Tarts. From the same.

Make some Coffins of sweet Paste, and when they are gently baked, and cold, fill them with the above-mention'd Marmalade of Peaches, and serve them.

Apricots preserv'd for Tarts. From the same.

Take Apricots of the largest kind, When they begin to turn to Ripeness, pare them and discharge them from the Stones. Cut them in Halves, and stew them with a little Water, and their weight of fine Sugar powder'd. Boil these gently over a clear Charcoal Fire, till the Liquor becomes of the Consistence of a Jelly, and the Apricots are clear. Then when they are cool, put them up in glazed Gallypots, or in Glasses. If you use them for Tarts, put them in Coffins of sweet Paste, and cover them, and put them in the Oven, till they are hot through. Then serve them with double-refined Sugar grated over them. These may be either serv'd hot or cold. The Jelly of this kind, in the Glasses, may be serv'd as a Sweetmeat in a Desert.

Memorandum, If, when these Fruits are ripe, you can have any Apples near ripe, pare them, and slice them free from the Core, and stew them in as much Water as will cover them, and their weight in fine Sugar, till by boiling and stirring, the whole becomes of a Jelly; then in this, when it is clear, stew your Apricots, or Peaches, till they are what you desire. N.B. You may always colour these with Syrup of Mulberries, which gives no additional Taste.

Plums to make _Marmalade _of. From the same.

There are several sorts of Plums, which are fit for this use. And though they differ in colour, that is, some red and some white, yet the Marmalade made of any of them will be white, for the Colour is only in the Skin; and that if it was to be used, could give no Tincture; but in our Case, we do not want it. The Sorts are either the Bonum Magnum, as it is call'd, which is a large, long, red Plum, with a Pulp very tender, but sour, when it is raw from the Tree. Another is a large Plum, rather yellowish than white, when it is ripe, and of the former Shape, like an Egg, which is called by some the Egg-Plum; but more particularly the white Holland Plum, and is so called by the Gardeners. These two have a Flesh and Juice much like one another, and make a fine Shew in a Dish by way of Desert; but are in my Opinion only fit for stewing. However, the Skins will part easily from 'em, when they are ripe, and they both quit the Stone freely. Take these and peel them, and divide them; then put them in a little Water and their weight of fine Sugar, made into a Syrup, over a gentle Fire: put them in when the Liquor is only warm, and when they are cover'd with the Syrup, stew them gently, if you would preserve them in their Shape; and put them, with the Syrup, into Glasses as soon as they are clear, or else mash them into the Syrup, and let them boil till they become like a Paste; keeping all stirring while they are over the Fire, or else they will burn to the Pan. This Marmalade is good to be serv'd in Glasses as a Sweet-meat in a Desert, or to be put into Coffins for Tarts, or to be brought upon the Table in Saucers among the other Sweet-meats in a Desert.