First, place the foot to be measured upon a sheet of white paper. Mark around the foot with a long pencil, being careful to hold it in a perpendicular position. Next, take the circumference across the ball and instep with a tape measure. Next measure the heel and calf.

For calf boots, the boot must be one-fourth of an inch wider on the heel than the foot, and the ankle one-fourth of an inch less than the heel measure.

CALF-LIKE MEASURE OF THE LEG.—LAST MEASURE.

The last must be one and one-half of a size longer than the foot, and as wide as the widest part of the foot.

For stubb toes, the last should be one size longer.

Proper allowance should be made for corns. Place a round knob made of leather, or any other suitable substance, on the last, just the size of the corn, or enlargement, on one or both sides of the last, according to circumstances.

104The instep must be one-eighth of an inch less than measure.

For a sound, healthy foot, make the last one-fourth of an inch less on the ball, and three-eighths of an inch less on the instep.

Patent leather boots, around the ankle must be full with the measure as the stitches contract.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR LASTING BOOTS.

If a boot is well cut, and not properly lasted, the boot will not fit.

Soak the counters well in water. Paste between each.

Draw the uppers smoothly over the last, as tightly as the leather will bear.

In drawing the uppers over the last, the counter should be left about half way into its place or position.

After the uppers are well lasted over the ball, then drive the heel last down to its place.

Now commence to last the boot in the shank; smooth either side alternately, towards the toe, until it fits smoothly.

Remarks.—Judgment should always be used in the manufacture of boots or shoes for tender feet. No specific directions can be given; the good sense and discretion of the artizan will suggest such modifications of the rules as the case requires. The instructions given concerning “corns,” will usually correct the difficulty, but in cases of general tenderness of the feet, the alterations must be made throughout.

105Around the heel, the patent leather boot should be three-eighths of an inch larger than is the calf boot.

SHOES.

The last should be two sizes longer than the foot in order to secure comfort. The reason is obvious; the foot works farther into the shoe, than in the boot.

The last, at the instep, should be as wide as the foot, because the stitching contracts the leather; otherwise the shoe will cause great discomfort. The shoe should be made one-fourth of an inch less than measure across the ball of the foot.

GAITER BOOTS.

The last should be made the same as for calf-skin boots, whether patent leather, or other material.

PREPARATION OF STOCK.

Soak the leather well in water. Remove all the fleshy substance, from stock of every description.

Draw the in-sole well over the last. Let it remain until nearly dry. Hammer the in-sole after removal. Next, cut the in-sole as required; by the sole thus prepared, cut the other sole.

The remainder of the stock should be nearly dry before cutting up.

TO PREVENT SQUEAKING.

Ruff the soles with a rasp, then paste between them. Put every piece comprising the heel on separately, rasp every lift, and paste as before.

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