ILLUSTRATIONS
Reading edition
‘NOBODY BLUNDERED’ Frontispiece
From a drawing by Gilbert Holiday
COUNTING ANIMALS AVAILABLE FOR MILITARY SERVICE To face p. 6
ON A FRONTIER BRIDGE ” 10
THE AMAZON}”12
THE MASCOT
THE ROAD TO RILO ” 20
A BULGARIAN BLOCKHOUSE}”24
THE BRIDGE OVER THE STRUMA: TURK AND BULGAR
RILO MONASTERY: GRACE BEFORE GRUB ” 28
FATHER COOK AND THE BRIGAND ” 32
BULGARIAN PEASANTS, SAMAKOV ” 36
BULGARIAN INFANTRY ” 48
THE CATHEDRAL, SOFIA}”54
THE BRITISH AGENCY, SOFIA: A DEMONSTRATION
A VIEW OF SOFIA, VITOSH IN THE BACKGROUND ” 58
ON THE MARKET PLACE, SOFIA ” 60
DOGS OCCUPY THE PAVEMENT; PEOPLE WALK IN THE STREETS}”70
THE TURKISH BARBERSHOP
CONSTANTINOPLE: MOSQUE OF YÉNI-DJAMI ON THE BOSPHORUS ” 74
A HAMMAL AND A LOAD OF PETROLEUM TINS ” 78
THE WALL AND BEYOND, SALONICA ” 86
THE ANCIENT ARCH OF CONSTANTINE, SALONICA ” 90
THE TURKISH BUTCHER ” 92
JEWS}”96
JEWISH WOMEN
ASIATIC SOLDIERS: ‘REDIFS’}”106
WAITING FOR DYNAMITERS, SALONICA
THE WRECK OF THE OTTOMAN BANK}”116
ENTERING THE DYNAMITERS’ DEN
EXILES, SHIPPED WEEKLY FROM SALONICA ” 126
ON A MACEDONIAN LAKE ” 136
A GREEK ” 142
A BIT OF OLD MONASTIR ” 148
ORTHODOX PRIESTS ” 154
CAPTIVES ALBANIANS, BULGARIANS ” 166
TURKISH WEDDING FESTIVITIES ” 168
A GYPSY MINSTREL}”170
A TURKISH TRUMPETER
OUR ESCORT FORDING A STREAM ” 172
‘8 CHEVAUX OU 48 HOMMES’: ALBANIAN RECRUITS ” 184
GRAVES OF DEAD COMMITTAJIS}”194
THE OLD TURKISH SEXTON WHO LIVED IN A GRAVE
THE HORSE MARKET}”198
SWEARING TO A BARGAIN
ALBANIAN WOMEN ” 210
THE ALBANIAN AND HIS KULER}”220
ALBANIAN
A GROUP OF ALBANIANS ” 222
WAYFARERS AT A ROADSIDE FOUNTAIN: TURKS ” 228
IN A MOUNTAIN VILLAGE: BULGARIAN PEASANTS DANCING THE HORO ” 236
THE TURKISH QUARTER: DJUMA-BALA ” 242
RUINS OF KREMEN ” 244
A TURKISH BAND LEAVING MONASTIR}”252
BASHI-BAZOUKS
TURKS ON THE MARCH ” 256
TURKISH TROOPS ” 260
VLACHS ” 266
‘HELL HOLE,’ KRUSHEVO ” 274
THE MACEDONIAN ” 280
COMMITTAJIS OFF DUTY ” 292
MAP OF THE BALKANS ” 296
THE BALKAN TRAIL