APPENDIX (continued 2)

XII POINTS ON MAINTENANCE

Q. What is the proper way to wash the car?

A. Always use cold or lukewarm water,—never hot water. If a hose is used, do not turn on the water at full force, as this drives the dirt into the varnish and injures the finish. After the surplus mud and grime have been washed off, take a sponge and clean the body and running gear with a tepid solution of water and ivory or linseed oil soap. Then rinse off with cold water; then rub dry and polish the body with a chamois skin. A body or furniture polish of good quality may be used to add luster to the car. Grease on the running gear may be removed with a gasoline soaked sponge or rag. The nickeled parts may be polished with any good metal polish.

Q. What care does the top need?

A. When putting the top down be careful in folding to see that the fabric is not pinched between the bow spacers, as they will chafe a hole through the top very quickly. Always slip the hood over the top when folded to keep out dust and dirt. Applying a good top dressing will greatly improve the appearance of an old top.

Q. What should be done when the car is stored?

A. Drain the water from the radiator, and then put in about a quart of denatured alcohol to prevent freezing of any water that may possibly remain. Remove cylinder head and clean out any carbon deposits in combustion chamber. Draw off all the gasoline. Drain the dirty oil from the crank case and cleanse the engine with kerosene as directed above. Refill the crank case with fresh oil and revolve the engine enough to cover the different parts with oil. Remove the tires and store them away. Wash up the car, and if possible cover the body with a sheet of muslin to protect the finish.

Q. What attention do the electric headlights require?

A. Very little. When the cars leave our factory the lamps are properly focussed and unless the bulb burns out there should be no occasion for removing the door, as there is nothing to get out of order. Should the door be removed for any reason care should be exercised not to touch the silver-plated reflector or the bulb with anything but a soft, clean rag, preferably flannel. To focus the lamps turn the adjusting screw in the back of the lamp in either direction until the desired focus is attained. The bulbs we are furnishing in electric head lamps are 8 volts, 2 amperes, and best results will be obtained by securing lamps of this voltage and amperage when replacement is necessary.

XIII THE FORD MODEL T ONE TON TRUCK

Q. Do the instructions relative to the car apply to the truck?

A. The answers pertaining to the car are applicable to the truck.

Q. How is the rear axle removed?

A. Jack up the truck, place supports under rear axle housings, and remove the rear wheels. Take out the four bolts connecting the universal ball cap to the transmission case and cover. Disconnect brake rods. Remove nuts holding spring perches to rear axle housing flanges. Raise frame by placing a long iron bar or gas pipe under the frame just in front of rear spring, one end resting on a substantial support of the proper height. Two workmen at the other end of the bar can raise the frame and place the end of the bar on another support. The rear axle assembly can then be easily removed.

Q. How is the universal joint disconnected from the drive shaft?

A. Remove two plugs from top and bottom of ball casting and turn shaft until pin comes opposite hole, drive out pin and the joint can be pulled or forced away from the shaft and out of the housing.

Q. How are the rear axle and differential disassembled?

A. With the universal joint disconnected, remove the bolt in front end of radius rods and the cap screws which hold the drive shaft tube to the rear axle housing. Then remove the rear axle housing cap; also the bolts which hold the two halves of the differential housing together. With the differential exposed to view, the manner of disassembling it will be apparent. Care must be exercised to get every part back in its correct position when reassembling, being sure to use new paper liners.

Q. How is the worm removed?

A. To remove the worm, drive out the pins which hold the coupling to the worm and drive shaft. Then remove the felt washer, roller bearing sleeve, and roller bearing by slipping them over the coupling. Drive the coupling off from the drive shaft and then force the worm from the coupling. Removing the worm nut will permit the removal of the retaining washer, thrust bearing and rear worm roller bearing. In reassembling be sure that the pin which holds the retaining washer stationary is in place.

Q. How is the rear axle shaft removed?

A. Remove the rear axle assembly as directed above. Disconnect brake rods and radius rods at rear axle housing flange; also remove nuts holding spring perches to flanges. Take out the cap screws holding the drive shaft tube to the rear axle housing and remove the rear axle housing cap and the bolts which hold the two halves of the differential housing together, then pull or force the housing from the shafts and disassemble differential. After replacing the axle shaft be sure that the rear wheels are firmly wedged on at the outer end of the axle shaft and the key in proper position. When the truck has been driven thirty days or so make it a point to remove the hub cap and set up the lock nut to overcome any play that might have developed. It is extremely important that the rear wheels are kept tight, otherwise the constant rocking back and forth against the keyway may in time cause serious trouble.

Q. How is the differential gear removed from the shaft?

A. The differential gear is fastened to the inner end of the rear axle shaft by means of splines, and is held in position by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear axle shaft. To remove the gear, force it down on the shaft, that is, away from the end to which it is fastened, drive out the two halves of the ring in groove in shaft with screw driver or chisel, and force the gear off the end of the shaft.

Q. What about lubricating the rear axle?

A. Extreme care must be used in lubricating the differential. An A-1 heavy fluid or semi-fluid oil, such as Mobiloil C or Whittemore’s Worm Gear Protective, should be used and cared at a level with the upper oil plug. The differential is supplied with the required amount of lubricant when the car leaves the factory and the supply should be maintained by replenishments as required. After running the truck about 500 miles, the oil should be drained off by removing the lower oil plug, and the differential filled with fresh lubricant. This operation should be repeated at approximately 1000 miles, and after that whenever necessary. The rear axle outer roller bearings are lubricated by means of dope cups. These cups should be kept filled with a good grade of grease and given a full turn every 100 miles. Before putting the truck back into service after the rear axle has been taken out fill the differential with oil, jack up the axle and run it for five or ten minutes to insure proper lubricant of all bearings.

XIV THE F. A. STARTING AND LIGHTING SYSTEM INSTALLED ON SEDANS AND COUPÉS

Q. Of what does the starting and lighting system consist?

A. The starting and lighting system is of the two unit type and consists of the starting motor, generator, storage battery, charging indicator, and lights, together with the necessary wiring and connections.

Q. Where is the starter located?

A. The starting motor is mounted on the left hand side of the engine and bolted to the transmission cover. When in operation the pinion on the Bendix drive shaft engages with the teeth on the flywheel.

Q. What must be done before starting the engine?

A. The spark and the throttle levers should be placed in the same position on the quadrant as when cranking by hand, and the ignition switch turned on. Current from either battery or magneto may be used for ignition. When starting, especially when the engine is cold the ignition switch should be turned to battery. As soon as the engine is warmed up, turn switch back to magneto. The magneto was designed to furnish ignition for the Model T engine and better results will be obtained by operating in this way. Special attention must be paid to the position of the spark lever as a too advanced spark will cause serious backfiring which in turn will bend or break the shaft in the starter. The starting motor is operated by a push button, conveniently located in the floor of the car at the driver’s feet. With the spark and throttle levers in the proper position, and the ignition switch turned on, press on the push button with the foot. This closes the circuit between the battery and the starting motor, causing the pinion of the Bendix drive shaft to engage with the teeth on the flywheel, thus turning over the crank shaft. When the engine is cold it may be necessary to prime it by pulling out the carburetor priming rod, which is located on the instrument board. In order to avoid flooding the engine with an over rich mixture of gas, the priming rod should only be held out for a few seconds at a time.

Q. What if the engine fails to start?

A. If the starting motor is turning the crank shaft over and the engine fails to start, the trouble is not in the starting system. In this event, release the button at once so as not to unnecessarily discharge the battery and inspect the carburetor and ignition system to determine the trouble.

Q. What if the starting motor fails to act?

A. If the starting motor fails to act, after pushing the button, first inspect the terminal on the starting motor, the two terminals on the battery and the two terminals on starting switch, making sure all the connections are tight; then examine the wiring for a break in the insulation that would cause a short circuit. If the wiring and connections are O. K. and the starting motor fails to act, test the battery with the hydrometer. If the hydrometer reading is less than 1.225 the trouble is no doubt due to a weak or discharged battery.

Q. How is the generator operated?

A. The generator is mounted on the right hand side of the engine and bolted to the cylinder front end cover. It is operated by the pinion on the armature shaft engaging with the large time gear. The charging rate of the generator is set so as to cut in at engine speeds corresponding to ten miles per hour in high speed and reaches a maximum charging rate at twenty miles per hour. At higher speeds the charge will taper off, which is a settled characteristic of battery charging. This operation of cutting in and cutting out at suitable speeds is accomplished by the cut-out, which is mounted on the dash. This cut-out is set properly at the factory and should not under any circumstances be tampered with.

Q. What about oiling?

A. The starting motor is lubricated by the Ford splash system, the same as the engine and the transmission. The generator is lubricated by a splash of oil from the time gears. In addition an oil cup is located at the end of the generator housing and a few drops of oil should be applied occasionally.

Q. What should be done when repairing the ignition?

A. The introduction of a battery current into the magneto will discharge the magnets and whenever repairing the ignition system or tampering with the wiring in any way, do not fail to disconnect the positive wire from the battery. The end of this wire should be wound with tape to prevent its coming in contact with the ignition system or metal parts of the car.

Q. How does the charging indicator work?

A. The charging indicator is located on the instrument board. This indicator registers “charge” when the generator is charging the battery and “discharge” when the lights are burning and the engine not running above ten miles per hour. At an engine speed of 15 miles per hour or more the indicator should show a reading of from 10 to 12 even with the lights burning. If the engine is running above 15 miles per hour and the indicator does not show “charge,” first inspect the terminal posts on the indicator, making sure that the connections are tight, then disconnect the wire from the terminal on generator, and with the engine running at a moderate speed, take a pair of pliers or a screw driver and short circuit the terminal stud on the generator to the generator housing. If the generator is O.K., a good live spark will be noted. (Do not run the engine any longer than is necessary with the terminal wire disconnected.) Next inspect the wiring from the generator through the charging indicator to the battery for a break in the insulation that would result in a short circuit.

Q. How are the lights operated?

A. The lighting system consists of two 2-bulb headlights and a tail light operated by a combination lighting and ignition switch located on the instrument board. The large bulbs are of 6-8 candle-power type. The small bulbs of 6-8 volt two candle-power type. The small bulb is also used in the tail light. All of the lamps are connected in parallel so that the burning out or removal of any one of them will not effect the other. Current for the lamps is supplied by the battery. Do not connect the lights with the magneto as it will result in burning out the bulbs and might discharge the magnets.

Q. What about repairing starter and generator?

A. If either the starter or generator fails to give proper service, the owner should at once consult an authorized Ford dealer. If the trouble is not found in the wiring, connections, etc., as outlined, the dealer will remove the starter or generator, or both if necessary, and return them intact to the nearest branch for repair or replacement. Dealers or owners should not attempt to repair or tamper in any way with the mechanism of the starter and generator.

Q. How is the starter removed?

A. When removing the starter to replace transmission bands, or for any other reason, first remove the engine pan and the left hand side of the engine and with a screw driver remove the four small screws holding the shaft cover to the transmission cover. Upon removing cover and gasket, turn the Bendix drive shaft around so that the set screw on the end of the shaft is in the upward position. Immediately under the set screw is placed a lock washer, designed with lips or extensions opposite each other on the outside diameter. One of these is turned against the collar and the other is turned up against the side of the screw head. Bend back the lip which has been forced against the screw and remove the set screw. As the lock washer will no doubt be broken or weakened in removing the starter, a new one must be used in replacing it. These washers may be obtained from the nearest branch. Next, pull the Bendix assembly out of the housing, being careful that the small key is not misplaced or lost. Remove the four screws which hold the starter housing to the transmission cover and pull out the starter, taking same down through the chassis,—this is why it was necessary to remove the engine pan. Extreme care should be used in removing the Bendix drive and other parts that none are misplaced nor lost and that they are replaced in their former positions. In replacing the starter, be sure that the terminal connection is placed at the top. If the car is to be operated with the starter removed, be sure to put the transmission cover plates in position. These plates may also be obtained from the nearest branch.

Q. How is the generator removed?

A. If it is found necessary to remove the generator, first take out the three cap screws holding it to the front end cover and by placing the point of a screw driver between the generator and front end cover; the generator may be forced off the engine assembly. Always start at the top of the generator and force it backward and downward at the same time. Plates may be obtained from the nearest branch to place over the time gear if the car is to be operated with the generator removed.

Q. Can the engine be run with the generator disconnected from the battery?

A. If for any reason it is run with the generator disconnected from the battery, as on a block test, or when battery has been removed for repair or recharging, be sure that the generator is grounded to the engine by running a wire from the terminal on generator to one of the valve cover stud nuts. A piece of wire ¹⁄₁₆″ or more in diameter may be used for this purpose. Be sure that the connections at both ends of the wire are tight. Failure to do this when running the engine with the generator disconnected from the battery will result in serious injury to the generator.

Q. What about the care of the battery, repairing of recharging?

A. The Ford Starting System uses a 6-volt 13-plate “Exide” battery, type 3-XC-13-1. The care of the battery in service is summed up in the following rules:

1. Add nothing but pure water to the cells and do it often enough to keep the plates covered at all times. Distilled water, melted artificial ice or rain water collected in clean receptacles is recommended. In cold weather add water only just before running the engine so that the charging may mix the water and the electrolyte and freezing of the water be avoided.

2. Take frequent hydrometer readings to make sure that the generator is keeping the battery charged. To take reading remove filler cap of cell, insert end of hydrometer syringe in filler opening, squeeze bulb, and release, drawing up enough liquid to float hydrometer bulb free in the liquid. The reading of the scale at the surface of the liquid when hydrometer is floating in the specific gravity (density) of the electrolyte. A fully charged battery will show a reading of 1.275 to 1.300. A battery half charged will show a reading of 1.225 to 1.250. A completely discharged battery will show a reading of 1.200 or less. When taking hydrometer readings remove the filler cap from only one cell at a time and be sure to return electrolyte to the cell from which it was taken. Then replace and tighten the filler cap. Hydrometer tests taken immediately after filling with water and before water has become thoroughly mixed with the electrolyte will not show the true condition of the battery.

3. If hydrometer reading shows battery less than half charged it should be taken to the nearest Exide Battery Service Station for recharging. Continued operation in a less than half charged condition is injurious to the battery, just as running in a soft or deflated condition is injurious to the tires.

4. Keep the filler caps in place and screwed tight,—a half turn tightens them. Keep battery connections tight and clean. A coating of heavy oil or vaseline will protect the connectors from corrosion. Keep battery firmly secured in place. If hold-downs are loose battery will shift about in compartment and result in loose connections, broken cells or other trouble.

5. Exide Battery Stations are maintained in principal cities and towns throughout the country to assist you to obtain good service from your battery. Do not entrust your battery to the care of a novice.

Q. What about battery guarantee?

A. The Exide batteries are guaranteed by the manufacturers (The Electric Storage Battery Company, Philadelphia, Pa.) to be free from defects in material and workmanship.

At any time within three months from date of delivery to the purchaser any battery which may prove to be defective or incapable, when fully charged, of giving its rated capacity, will be repaired or replaced free of expense upon receipt, transportation charges prepaid, at any Exide Battery Depot or authorized Exide Battery Service Station. This guarantee does not cover the free charging of batteries nor the making good of damage resulting from continued lack of filling the cells from time to time with pure water. No claims on account of alleged defects can be allowed unless made within three months of date of delivery of battery to purchaser, and the right is reserved to refuse to consider claims in the case of batteries opened by other than authorized Exide Battery Service Stations.

Purchasers of cars equipped with the “Exide” batteries are earnestly urged to coöperate with the battery manufacturers to taking their cars, as promptly as possible after receipt, by the nearest Exide Battery Service Station in order that the battery may be tested and its condition and installation checked. No charge is made for this inspection.