INDEX

Abruzzi, Duke of, the, 115

Acclimatisation, 77–78, 126–240, 288–289, 299–308

Altitude, zones of, 262 ff.; effects of, 305. See Acclimatisation

Ammu Chu valley, 29

Army and Navy Stores, 21

Arun river, 39, 43, 82–87, 97; gorges of, explored, 98–102

Avalanche on Mount Everest, 69, 282–285

Base Camp, the, 49–51, 124

Bhong Chu, river, (= Arun, q.v.)

Bride Peak (Baltistan), 115

Brown, Mr., 21

Bruce, Captain J. G., 8, 20, 33, 130, 325; in second attempt on Mount Everest, 61–62, 116–117, 236–249, 254–257; leaves Base Camp for Kharta, 65, 80, 85, 89–90, 95

Bruce, General C. G., 4–6, 8, 19–20; author of the Narrative of the Expedition, 17–118, 130, 143

Bullock, Mr. G., 139, 156, 162

Camp IV (on North Col.), 57; route to, from E. Rongbuk glacier, 125, 153–159, 173–175; from main Rongbuk glacier, 259

Camp V (above North Col), 288

Camps, problem of, 141, 258, 287, 291–292

Camps I, II, and III on E. Rongbuk glacier, 52, 54–56, 145–152, 231

Chang La (= North Col, q.v.), 289, 329

339Changtse, mountain, 158

Chey La, 105

Chiu, camp, 108

Cho Uyo, mountain, 72, 158, 209, 246

Chobu village, 104

Chodzong, camp, 43, 79

Chog La, 89–90

Chokarbo, camp, 89–90

Chomolhari, mountain, 28

Chomolonzo, mountain, 91

Chomolungmo (= Mount Everest), 123

Chongay, tent-mender, 21, 31, 92–94, 103

Chongay La, agent of the Shekar Dzongpen, 42, 53, 57

Chongray, Tibetan deity, 45

Chotromo, camp, 98

Chumbi valley, 27, 29–30, 38, 105, 111, 326–327

Chushar, 329

Cigarette-smoking, effects of, 266–267

Clothing, 186–188, 262, 307. See Wind-proof clothing

Cooks, 23, 56

Crampons. See Foot-gear

Crawford, Mr. C. G., 8, 20, 22, 38, 227–228; at Camp III, 168–169; in third attempt on Mount Everest, 275, 280–284; return to Darjeeling, 96–97, 114

Dalai Lama, the, 85, 118

Damtang, village, 92, 103

Darjeeling, 20, 22, 114

Dasno, Mallory’s porter, 153, 159

340Donka La, 32, 111

Doya La, 66, 81–82

Dra, village, 105

Dreyer, Professor G., 253, 279

Dzakar Chu, river, 43, 81, 104

East Rongbuk glacier, 51, etc. See Camps I, II, III

Everest, Mount, 18, 114, 125; compared with Mont Blanc, 231–233; first attempt on, 58–60, 182–224, 253–254, 256; second attempt, 61–62, 227–250, 254–257; third attempt, 66–70, 273–286; weather conditions, 18, 170–171, 233–234, 275, 292

Farrar, Captain J. P., 8–10

Father William, 84, 104

Finch, Captain George, 6, 10, 20, 22; joins main body at Kamba Dzong, 38, 227–228; 39, 58, 59; to site of Camp I, 230–231; at Base Camp, 231 ff., to Camp III, 234–235; second attempt on Mount Everest, 61–62, 116–117, 237–250, 254–257; starts on third attempt, but returns, 66–67, 251–252; return to Darjeeling, 67, 252. Author of Chapters VII, VIII, and IX

Food, 177–180

Foot-gear, 197, 268, 293

Fuel, 51, 52, 93

Gembu (= headman), 100

Gnatong, bungalow, 26, 27, 112, 130

Gurkhas, 5, 20

Gyachang Kang, mountain, 72, 158, 209

Gyaljen, sardar, 32–33, 63

Gyamda, pony, 29, 80, 82

Gyang’ka-nangpa, camp, 39, 133, 136–137

Gyantse, town, 29, 110

Hats, Homburg, as gifts, 42, 85

341Head-gear, 263, 268

Howard-Bury, Colonel, 3, 4, 8, 17, 32, 39

Hung Zungtrak, camp, 36

Hurké Gurung, naik, 32

Jelep La, 27, 38, 112, 131, 227

Jelep valley, 29

Jykhiop, camp, 107

Kalimpong, 21, 22, 27, 227

Kama valley, 88–89, 93, 171, 331

Kanchenjunga, 112, 114

Karma Paul, interpreter, 24, 45, 47, 63, 79

Kehar Sing, cook, 80, 92

Kellas, Dr., 38

Khamba Dzong, 32, 37, 39, 109, 228

Kharta valley, 65, 83

Kharta Shika, 83, 87–89

Khartaphu, mountain, 158

Khombu La, 54

Kosi river, 97

Kyamathang, village, 97, 99–100

Kyishong, camp, 106

Laden La, Mr., 27

Lal Sing Gurung, lance-naik, 32

Leeches, 113

Lhakpa La, 158

Lhakpa Tsering, boy, 38

Lhotse, 126

Longstaff, Dr. T. G., 19, 130; first reconnaissance to site of camp III, 51–53, 64; return to Darjeeling, 65, 252. Author of Chapter XV

Lumeh Camp, 104

Lungdo, village, 100

Lungtung, village, 26, 113

Macdonald, Mr. John, 29–30, 63, 72, 106, 111, 113

Makalu, mountain, 152, 171, 312

342

Mallory, Mr. G. L., 4, 6, 9, 19, 130; attempt on Sangkar Ri, 39, 133–137; ascends 21,000 ft. peak near Base camp, 140; to Camp I, 144; Camp II, 146; Camp III, 148; to North Col and back, 57, 152–160, 301; at Camp III, 160–168; establishes Camp IV, 169–174, 300; first attempt on Mount Everest, 56–59, 175–224; third attempt, 273–286, 308; return to Darjeeling, 96–97. Author of Chapters IV–VI, X and XI

Monsoon, the, 18, 50, 58, 68, 70, 275–276, 292

Morris, Captain C. G., 8, 20, 21, 33; establishes Camp I, 52; meets party of second attempt on Everest at Camp III, 223; conducts evacuation of Camps I–III, 66–71; explores the Arun gorges, 95, 98–102

Morshead, Major, 4, 8, 20, 130; on first reconnaissance to site of Camp III, 51–52; arrives at Camp III, 168; establishes Camp IV, 169–175; to 25,000 ft. camp on first attempt on Mount Everest, 56–59, 175–203, 211–224; return to Darjeeling, 64–65, 252

Mules, 27, 31, 34

Nepal, Maharajah of, 75, 96, 103

Nepalese language, 33; sheep, 91

Ngangba La, 54

Noel, Captain J. B., 8, 20, 23, 85, 130; at Base Camp, 50, 73–74; to North Col with the party of second attempt on Everest, 237; spends three nights there, 249, 289, 329; explores the Arun gorges, 95, 98–102 (his own account); leaves the main body and goes to Gyantse, 110

North Col, 55; camp on, 57. See Camp IV

343Norton, Major E. F., 6–7, 19, 24, 130, 131; to site of Camp I, 230–231; on first reconnaissance, 51–52; first attempt on Mount Everest, 58–59, 173–224; leaves Base camp for Kharta valley, 65, 84, 86; joins the main body, 87, 89, 95; botanical and zoological work, 321–322, 326, etc.

Oxygen, 9–10, 52, 60, 69, 115–117, 231, 235–237, 243, 252–259, 263–266, 291, 294, 303–305

Pang La, 43, 334

Pangli, camp, 105

Pawhunri, mountain, 36

Phari Dzong, 30–31, 33, 111, 131

Pharmogoddra La, 108

Popti La, 92, 103

Porters, 5, 63, 94, 117, 286, etc.

Pou, a cook, 151

Primus stoves, 151, 176

Pumori, mountain, 158, 247

Rapiu La, 152, 168, 171, 236

Rawlinson, Lord, 20

Richengong, Camp, 29

Rongbuk monastery, 43, 73

Rongbuk Lama, 45–47, 74–75, 78, 275

Rongli Chu, 26, 112, 114

Rumoo collector of plants, 322

Sakiathang, Camp, 89–91

Sakia Chu, 102

Samchang La, 89

Sangkar Ri, mountain, 39, 133–137

Sarabjit Thapa, lance-naik, 32

Sedongchen, Camp, 113

Serpo La, 331

Shekar Dzong, 39–41, 105

Sherpas, 33, 54, 63

Shika. See Kharta Shika

Shiling, plain, 107, 136

Shing (= fuel), 52

Sikkim, 25–28, 110, 113, 309–310

344Snow-glasses, 263

Somervell, Dr., 7, 10, 19, 130, 167; attempt on Sangkar Ri, 39, 133–137; ascends a 21,000 ft. peak near Base camp, 140; first attempt on Mount Everest (see Mallory), 56–59, 144–224, 301–302; third attempt, 273–286, 308; return to Darjeeling, 96–97, 114. Author of Chapters XII to XIV

Strutt, Colonel E. L., 6, 19; fixes site of Camp I, 230–231; leader of first reconnaissance, 51–53; returns to Camp III and visits North Col, 56–58; return to Darjeeling, 65, 252

Tang La, 32, 34

Tashilumpo, Lama of, 85, 118

Tatsang, village, 39, 110; nunnery, 37

Tea, 177, 223; Tibetan tea, 46, 78

Tejbir Bura, lance-naik, 20, 32, 58; in second attempt on Everest, 62, 234–244, 248, 254–256, 78, 81, 85

Teng, village and camp, 82–85, 96–97

Tibet, 228, 323

Tibetan architecture, 313–314; atmosphere, 79–80, 311; colour, Chap. XIII; coolies, 53–54, 63; fauna, Chap. XV; food, 44; music, 230, 315–318; 345painting, 314; wind, 165, 228, 332–333; weather, 170

Tinki Dzong, 39, 107–108; pass, 107, 132, 310

Training, 39, 118, 130. See Acclimatisation

Trangso Chumbab, camp, 329

Transport, 143, 168

Trateza, camp, 82

Tsanga, waterfall, 100

Tzampa (= flour), 100

Unna, Mr. P. J. H., 10

Wakefield, Dr., 7, 19, 39, 130; meets the party of the first attempt on Everest, 223, 236; to Camp III with party of third attempt 70, 252, 275, 280

Weatherall, Mr., 20–21

Wheeler, Captain E. O., 4, 147

Wind, 165, 172, 186. See Everest, Tibet

Wind-proof clothing, 59, 62, 117, 255, 259, 264, 266–267

Wollaston, Dr. A. F. R., 322, 326, etc.

Yaru, river, 39, 107, 138

Yatung, 29, 131, 326

Yulok La, 102

346Uniform with “Mount Everest: The Assault.”

MOUNT EVEREST.

The Reconnaissance, 1921.

By Lieut.-Colonel C. K. HOWARD-BURY, D.S.O.,

And other Members of the Expedition.

With 33 full-page illustrations and maps. Medium 8vo.

25s. net.

Also a Limited Large Paper Edition, with additional plates

in photogravure. Quarto, each copy numbered.

£5 5s. net.

“A remarkable contribution to the long and glorious story of British endeavour in the high places of the earth. The whole is a splendid record of clever and courageous enterprise.”—The Times.

“The book under review tells the tale of the doings of last year’s journey, and a notable tale it is, well told, finely illustrated with wonderful photographs, and excellently printed. The accompanying maps enable us for the first time to describe the articulation of the whole mountain region and to replace the vaguely guessed indication of culminations and connexions by a labyrinth of glaciers and ridges, full of meaning to geographers and those for whom the actual shape of the surface of the earth has interest.”—Sir Martin Conway, M.P., in the Manchester Guardian.

“Mr. Leigh-Mallory, who led the climbing party of the Everest expedition, has written in ‘The Reconnaissance of the Mountain’ an epic of mountaineering which deserves to be an abiding possession for all those who have ventured themselves into the silence and desolation of the high peaks.”—Morning Post.

“The book put together by the members of last year’s expedition, more especially the maps and illustrations, makes us envious. Colonel Howard Bury has told his story simply, with evident enjoyment. Mr. Leigh Mallory, who gives us the story of the reconnaissance, is terse and human and never tedious. He tells us exactly what we want to know.”—Mr. Edmund Candler in the Nation.

“The story of the journey and the climbing adventure as told separately by the leader and Mr. Mallory combine to make a narrative of singular variety which sustains its interest to the end, and is agreeably supplemented by the chapters of ‘Natural History Notes,’ contributed by Dr. Wollaston.”—Mr. Douglas Freshfield in the New Statesman.

“As fascinating and picturesque as it is valuable. It will rank with the best of its kind, and is assured of a success that is exceptionally well deserved. It will satisfy both the expert and the casual reader, and there can be nothing but praise for all concerned in it.”—Illustrated London News.

“The book is admirably and enthusiastically written, very finely illustrated, and in every way an ideal record of what will always be considered a classical example of exploration in its first stage.”—Country Life.

“Quite apart from its intrinsic interest it will be of the greatest value to everybody who wishes to appreciate the attempt which is now being made to continue the work and reach the absolute summit of the highest mountain in the world.”—Westminster Gazette.

London: EDWARD ARNOLD & CO.

Transcriber’s Notes: Abbreviated index entries for page ranges (e.g. 12-4 or 127-9) were expanded to allow links to the appropriate pages to be generated for the HTML and ePUB versions. Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected. Typographical errors were silently corrected. Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant form was found in this book.