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The Ascent of the Matterhorn

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Reading edition

The Drawings were made on the Wood by H. J. Boot, Gustave Doré, C. Johnson, J. Mahoney, J. W. North, P. Skelton, W. G. Smith, C. J. Staniland, and J. Wolf; and were Engraved by J. W. and Edward Whymper.

FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

1. “They saw masses of rocks, boulders and stones, big and little, dart round the corner” Frontispiece.

2. Outlines of the Matterhorn from the North-East and from the Summit of the Théodule Pass (to show Ridges, and Points attained on the different attempts to Ascend the Mountain) To face page 44

3. The Matterhorn, from near the Summit of the Théodule Pass „ 46

4. “The Chimney” „ 76

5. “In attempting to pass the corner I slipped and fell” „ 78

6. A Cannonade on the Matterhorn (1862) „ 84

7. “They scattered in a panic when saluted by the cries Of my excited comrade” „ 107

8. The Crags of the Matterhorn, during the Storm, Midnight, August 10, 1863 „ 120

9. The Club-Room of Zermatt in 1864 „ 202

10. The Matterhorn from the Riffelberg „ 227

11. Sections of the Matterhorn „ 230

12. Fog-bow, seen from the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865 „ 288

13. The Hut on the Eastern Face (Zermatt side) of the Matterhorn „ 309

14. Geological Section of the Matterhorn „ 324

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IN THE TEXT.

PAGE

1. Point of Alpenstock vii

2. Birmingham Pick-axe with moveable head viii

3. Russian Furnace viii

4. Cooking Tins ix

5. Snow Spectacles x

6. Arctic Cap xi

7. The Complete Disguise xi

8. Beachy Head 1

9. The Devil of Notre Dame 2

10. The Church in Difficulties 5

11. At the St. Bernard 6

12. The Village of Biona 7

13. Crossing Mont Cenis 9

14. “Garibaldi!” 10

15. A Bit of the Village of Zermatt 12

16. Briançon 13

17. Mont Pelvoux from above La Bessée 19

18. The Grand Pelvoux de Val Louise 21

19. Buttresses of Mont Pelvoux 26

20. Portrait of the late R. J. S. Macdonald 29

21. Outline to show Route up Mont Pelvoux 31

22. The Blanket Bag 38

23. Natural Pillar near Molines 40

24. Portrait of the late J. J. Bennen 48

25. Portrait of Jean-Antoine Carrel 51

26. The Col du Lion: looking towards the Tête du Lion 53

27. Diagram to show manner of fastening Tent-poles 62

28. The Author’s Mountain Tent 62

29. Climbing Claw 72

30. Rope and Ring 73

31. At Breil (Giomein) 79

32. The Matterhorn from Breil 85

33. “But what is this?” 88

34. An Arch of the Aqueduct in the Val Tournanche 92

35. Water-worn Rocks in the Gorge below the Gorner Glacier 96

36. Striations produced by Glacier-action 97

37. Chamois in Difficulties 102

38. “Carrel lowered me down” 108

39. Portrait of the late Canon Carrel of Aosta 109

40. Portrait of Monsieur Favre 121

41. Crossing the Channel 123

42. Portrait of the late Michel-Auguste Croz 125

43. Plan to show Route 128

44. The Aiguilles d’Arve, from above the Chalets of Rieu Blanc 130

45. Portrait of Melchior Anderegg 138

46. Map of the Brèche de la Meije, etc. 140

47. Diagram to show Angle of Summit of Meije, etc. 142

48. The Vallon des Etançons 143

49. Map of the Central Dauphiné Alps 146

50. The Pointe des Ecrins from the Col du Galibier 155

51. Outline to show Route up Pointe des Ecrins 156

52. Fragment from the Summit of the Pointe des Ecrins 159

53. A Night with Croz 164

54. A Snow Couloir 169

55. Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet Day 184

56. Our Camp on Mont Suc 185

57. Ice-Avalanche on the Moming Pass 198

58. Summit of the Moming Pass 200

59. Facsimile of a Letter From Croz 208

60. Part of the Southern Ridge of the Grand Cornier 210

61. Part of the Northern Ridge of the Grand Cornier 211

62. Portrait of Leslie Stephen 215

63. The Bergschrund on the Dent Blanche 217

64. Portrait of T. S. Kennedy 222

65. Diagrams to Show Dip of Strata on the Matterhorn 229

66. My Tent-bearer—The Hunchback 234

67. The Grandes Jorasses and the Doire Torrent 237

68. The Summit of the Col Dolent 241

69. My Ice-axe 243

70. Kennedy Ice-axe 244

71. Leslie Stephen Ice-axe 244

72. Crampon 245

73. Portrait of Christian Almer 248

74. On the Mer de Glace 249

75. Western Side of the Col de Talèfre 255

76. Glissading 257

77. The Wrong Way to use a Rope on Glacier 263

78. The Right Way to use a Rope on Glacier 264

79. “Croz! Croz!! Come Here!” 279

80. The Summit of the Matterhorn in 1865 281

81. The Actual Summit of the Matterhorn 284

82. Rope broken on the Matterhorn 287

83. Diagram of Fog-bow 289

84. Portrait of Monsieur Alex. Seiler 290

85. The Manilla Rope broken on the Matterhorn 292

86. The “Second” Rope broken on the Matterhorn 293

87. The English Church at Zermatt 294

88. The End 298

89. The Chapel at the Schwarzsee 310

90. The Summit of the Matterhorn in 1874 (Northern End) 311

91. “The things which tumble about the ears of unwary travellers” 325

MAPS.

To be placed at the end of the Volume.

1. The Matterhorn and its Glaciers (in colours).

2. The Valley of Zermatt; and the Central Pennine Alps.

The body of the work has been printed by Messrs. William Clowes and Sons; and the separate Plates have been printed by the Author.

THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN

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Illustration: Beachy Head
Illustration: Beachy Head

BEACHY HEAD.

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