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The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley)

ILLUSTRATIONS

Reading edition

Ice fall of nearly four thousand feet by which the upper or Harper Glacier

discharges into the lower or Muldrow Glacier (photogravure) Frontispiece

FACING PAGE

The author and Mr. H. P. Karstens 4

Tatum, Esaias, Karstens, Johnny, and Walter, at the Clearwater Camp 8

Striking across from the Tanana to the Kantishna 12

One of the abandoned mining towns in the Kantishna 14

Denali from the McKinley fork of the Kantishna River 16

Entering the range by Cache Creek 18

The base camp at about 4,000 feet on Cache Creek 20

Some heads of game killed at the base camp 22

The Muldrow Glacier. Karstens in the foreground 26

Ascension Day, 1913 30

Bridging a crevasse on the Muldrow Glacier 32

Hard work for dogs as well as men on the Muldrow Glacier 34

The Northeast Ridge shattered by the earthquake in July, 1912 40

Cutting a staircase three miles long in the ice of the shattered ridge 52

The shattered Northeast Ridge 56

Camp at 13,000 feet on Northeast Ridge 60

A dangerous passage 64

The Upper Basin reached at last. Our camp at the Parker Pass at 15,000 feet 72

Above all the range except Denali and Denali’s Wife 76

Traverse under the cliffs of the Northeast Ridge to enter the Grand Basin 82

First camp in the Grand Basin—16,000 feet, looking up 84

Second camp in the Grand Basin—looking down, 16,500 86

Third camp in the Grand Basin—17,000 feet, showing the shattering of the glacier walls by the earthquake 88

The North Peak, 20,000 feet high 90

The South Peak from about 18,000 feet 94

The climbing-irons 98

Denali’s Wife from the summit of Denali (photogravure) 102

Robert Tatum raising the Stars and Stripes on the highest point in North America 104

The saying of the Te Deum 106

Beginning the descent of the ridge; looking down 4,000 feet upon the Muldrow Glacier 122

Johnny Fred, who kept the base camp and fed the dogs and would not touch the sugar 128

“Muk,” the author’s pet malamute 136

Approaching the range 164

Map showing route of the Stuck-Karstens expedition to the summit of Mt. Denali (Mt. McKinley) End of volume

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