INDEX

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W Y Z

Acid test, 239 Adelaide wool, 10 Adulterations of wool, 80, 82 Albatross, 83, 173 Alma, 219 Alpaca, 1, 15, 34, 83 American cotton, 110 American wool, 3 Angora, 32, 83 Animal fibers, 1 Artificial fibers, 1 Artificial silk, 1, 230 Asbestos, 1, 234 Astrakhans, 15, 84 Australian wool, 3, 8, 9 Awning, 173

Baling cotton, 117 Bandanna, 84 Barège, 219 Bast fibers, 193 Batiste, 173 Beam, 53 Beaver cloth, 52, 84 Bedford cord, 84, 174 Beige, 85 Bengaline, 219 Berber, 219 Bindings, 84 Bleaching cotton, 148 flax, 196 thread, 141 Blending, 11, 31 Bombazine, 84, 220 Bottany, 84 Boucle, 85 Bourrette, 174 Bradford system of spinning, 44 Branding sheep, 7 Broadcloth, 52, 85 Brocade, 219 Brocatel, 220 Buckram, 174 Bunting, 85 Bur picker, 30 Burling, 72 Burring, 29, 30

Calendering, 149, 150 Calico, 175 Caniche, 86 Canvas, 177 Cape wools, 10 Carbonizing, 29, 30 Carding cotton, 126 wool, 3, 4 Carpet wools, 3, 4 Cashmere, 85, 86 goat, 13 wool, 13, 87 Castor, 87 Challis, 87 Chambray, 177 Characteristics of cotton cloth, 152 of linen cloth, 196 of woolen cloth, 50 of worsted cloth, 46 Cheese cloth, 178 Chenille, 220 Cheviot, 33, 35, 52, 87 wool, 14 Chiffon, 220 China grass, 232 China silks, 220 Chinchilla, 52, 98 Chintz, 178 Chudah, 89 Cloth-rolls, 54 Clothing wool, 3 Cocoons, 203 Combing cotton, 127 Combing wool, 4, 39 Combustion test, 239 Construction of cloth, 70, 71 Corduroy, 89 Côte cheval, 89 Cotton, 1, 105 carding, 126 combing, 127 drawing, 128 finishing, 147 flannel, 178 growing countries, 106 picker, 125 substitutes, 232 varieties of, 105, 106, 111, 112 yarns, 125, 134 Cotton-gin, 114-116 Counts of yarn, 9, 49, 51 Coupure, 90 Covert cloth, 90 Crabbing, 74 Crash, 178 Creel, 52 Crêpe, 179, 221 Crêpe de Chine, 221 Crepon, 179 Cretonne, 90 Crinoline, 179 Crocheting, 56, 253 Cross-dyed, 65, 67, 68 Cyprian gold, 234

Damask, 179 Dark colored fibers, 33 Dead wool, 20 Delaine wool, 22, 90 Denim, 179 Diaper cloth, 179 Difference between lamb’s wool and sheep’s wool, 20 Difference between wool and hair, 2 Difference between woolen and worsted yarns, 39 Dimity, 179 Doeskin, 52, 90 Domet, 180 Double-cloth, 58, 62 Drap d’Été, 90 Dress faced fabrics, 8 Drill, 180 Duck, 180 Dusting operation, 35 Dyeing, 66 black silks, 210 colored silks, 210 cotton, 67 wools, 65 yarns, 68, 209

East Indian cotton, 107 Egyptian cotton, 108 Elasticity of knitted textures, 253 Embroidery silk, 207 Empress cloth, 90 Ends, 53, 54 English system of spinning, 4, 40 English wools, 3 Eolienne, 181, 221 Épingline, 90 Etamine, 91, 181 Extract-wool, 1, 32, 37

Fancy goods, 79 Felt, 91 Felting, 2, 4 Fibers, 1 Figure weaving, 58, 61, 62 Figured poplins, 225 Finishing, 71, 151 Finishing hosiery, 163 Flannel, 52, 91-93 Flannelette, 181 Flax, 1, 123 preparation, 193-195 sources, 194, 198 Fleece, 7 Flocks, 1, 32, 37 Florentine, 93 Fly frames, 130 Foulard, 221 Foule, 93 Frame, 54 French system of spinning, 4, 44 Frieze, 52, 93 Full blood, 19 Full grade cotton, 121 Fulling, 73 Fustian, 180

Galatea cloth, 182 Gauge weaving, 63 Gauze, 182 Gill boxes, 42 Gingham, 182 Ginning cotton, 114 Glacé, 222 Gloria, 94 Goat, 1 Grades of wool, 18 Granada, 94 Great Britain wools, 12 Grenadine, 94 Grinding rags, 36 Ground lace, 164

Hackling, 195 Hair, 2 Half blood, 19 Half-grades of cotton, 121, 122 Hand-loom, 56 Harness, 55 Heddles, 54 Hemp, 1, 199 Henrietta cloth, 94 Hoggett wool, 20 Homespun, 58, 94 Hop sacking, 94 Hosiery, 159 Hosiery manufacture, 159-163 Humidifying cotton, 124 Hydro extractor, 28

India silk, 204, 222 Indigo blue flannel, 92 Inspection of cloth, 123, 124 Intermediate frame, 130 Irish wools, 14 Italian cloth, 183

Jaconet, 183 Jacquard machine, 55 Japanese silk, 222 Jeans, 95 Jersey cloth, 222 Jute, 1 uses of, 201

Kapok, 230 Kersey, 95 Kerseymere, 96 Khaki, 183 Knitting, 253 cotton, 159 finishing, 163 frames, 154 rib, 158 silk, 159 stripe, 159 wool, 3

Lace, 164, 165 terms, 166-172 Lamb’s wool, 15, 20 Lappet-weaving, 63, 64 Lawn, 183 Leicester wool, 12 Leno weaving, 63 Lincoln wool, 12 Linen, 196 Lingerie, 184 Linon, 184 Linsey woolsey, 96 Long cloth, 184 manufacture of, 194, 195 Long or clothing wool, 3 Loom, 54 Luster of wool, 26

Mackinaw, 92 Madras, 185 Manila hemp, 200 Melrose, 97 Melton, 97 Meltonette, 97 Mending, 72 Mercerizing, 151 Merino, 2, 3, 18, 19, 97 Metallic threads, 1, 234 Meteor, 222 Mexican Sheep, 4 Milling, 8 Mineral fibers, 1 Mohair, 1, 18, 34, 97 Moire, 223 Moisture contained in cotton, 123 Montagnac, 98 Montevideo, 11 Mordant, 69 Moreen, 186 Mozambique, 223 Mule spinning, 134 Mull, 186 Mummery, 186 Mungo, 1, 10, 32, 34 method of making, 32 Muslin, 186

Nainsook, 186 Naphtha, 26 Napping, 75 Navy twill flannel, 92 Netting, 253 New Zealand wool, 10 Noils, 1, 32, 40 Norfolkdown wool, 14

Oiling rags, 35 Olive oil, 29 Organdie, 186 Organzine, 223 Orleans, 98 Osnaburg, 186

Panama cloth, 98 Panne velvet, 223 Peau de soie, 223 Pelts, 20 Percale, 188 Percaline, 188 Perching, 72 Peruvian sheep, 15, 32 Pick, 54 Piece-dyeing, 65 Pile-weave, 62, 63 Pillow-lace, 165 Pineapple fiber, 233 Piqué, 188 Plain weave, 58 Planting cotton, 110 Plumetis, 190 Plushes, 15, 224 Pongee, 224 Popeline, 224 Poplin, 190 Port Philip wool, 9 Pressing machine, 76 Printing textiles, 65 Prunella, 98 Pulled wool, 20

Quarter blood, 19

Ramie, 232 Raw silk, 206 Reeling silk, 205 Remanufactured material, 1, 32 Rep, 190 Rib work in knitting, 158 Ribbons, 215 Ring spinning, 134 Russian hemp, 199 Russian wool, 12

Sacking, 99 Sanglier, 99 Sarsenet, 225 Satin, 225 weaving, 58 Satine, 190 Saxony wool, 8 Scour, 27 Scrim, 190 Scutching, 195 Sea Island cotton, 109 Seaming rags, 35 Seamless hosiery, 161 Sebastopol, 99 Serges, 99 Sewing silk, 207 Shaker flannel, 93 Shawls, 33 Sheep shearing, 5, 6, 7 Shetland wool, 14 Shoddy, 1, 10, 32, 34, 101 Short wools, 3 Shrinking of wool, 2, 3 Shropshiredown wool, 13 Shuttle, 55 Sicilian, 101 Silesia, 190 Silesian wool, 8 Silk, 1 cotton, 230 dyeing, 210 finishing, 218 varieties of, 207 warp flannel, 92 waste, 207 Sisal hemp, 200 Size of yarn, 9, 49, 51 Sizing, 53 Slag wool, 1, 234 Slasher, 53 Sliver, 39 Slubber, 130, 131 Soleil, 227 Souffle, 191 South American wool, 11 Southdown wools, 13 Spinning, 4, 40, 44, 50, 134 Spooler, 53 Spun glass, 233 fibers, 233 Spun numbers, 209 Spun silk, 208 Staple goods, 79 Starching cotton, 149 Stripe knitting, 159 Structure of wool, 1, 2 Styles, 70 Suffolkdown wool, 14 Sultane, 101 Superfines, 8 Swiss muslin, 191 Sydney wools, 9

Tabby velvet, 228 Taffeta, 227 Tamise, 101 Tape, 191 Tarletan, 191 Tartans, 101 Teaser, 31 Tentering, 74 Terry cloth, 191 Terry poplin, 225 Test for animal fiber, 239 artificial silk from silk, 231 cotton from linen, 240 density of a fabric, 239 dressing, 241 fastness against rain, 243 fastness under friction, 242 fastness to weather, light, and air, 244 linen, 240 permanence of dyes, 242 resistance to perspiration, 243 resistance to street mud and dust, 243 shoddy, 241 silk from wool, 240 wasting fastness, 242 Testing constituents of filling, 239 constituents of warp, 239 count of warp, 238 count of warp and filling threads, 238 elasticity of fabric, 237 for shrinkage, 239 piece-dyed fabric, 69 strength of fabric, 237 style of weave, 236 yarn-dyed fabric, 69 Textile printing, 69, 70, 216 Theories of coloring in textile designs, 76-79 Thibet, 101 Thread, 138 bleaching, 143 combing, 141 dyeing, 143 numbers, 144 sizing, 145 Throwing, 206 Thrown silk, 207 Tinsel, 1 Top, 11, 33, 40 Tricot, 101 Tulle, 228 Tussah silk, 204 Tweed, 15, 31, 35, 102 Twill weaving, 58, 59

Union cloth, 37

Van wool from Tasmania, 10 Vegetable fibers, 1 Veiling, 102 Velour, 228 Velvet, 15, 216, 228 Velveteen, 228 Venetian cloth, 102 Vigogne (Vienna), 103 Vigoureux, 103 Voiles, 103, 229

Warp, 53, 54 Warp-beam, 54 Waterproofing, 218 Weaving, 53, 54, 56 processes, 54-56 Weft, 54 Welsh wool, 14 Wether-wool, 15, 20 Whipcord, 104 Wood-pulp, 232 Wool, 1, 2 carding, 50 classing, 3, 16, 18 drying, 28 dyeing, 76 fibers, 2 grease in, 24 marketing, 7, 8, 15 oiling, 29 sorting, 16-18, 22-24 varieties of, 3, 4 washing, 24-28 Woolen yarn, 33, 50 Worsted carding, 39 combing, 39 diagonal, 104 Worsted spinning, 44 tops, 40 unfinished, 104 yarn, 33, 46

Yarn, 33, 39, 46 dyed, 65, 68 Yolk, 10, 25

Zephyr gingham, 192 wool, 49 Zibeline, 104