Part 3 — INDEX

Adulteration of linen, 87 Alpaca, 90 Altering sleeve patterns, 194 Angora wool, 39 Aniline dyes, 79 Arrow heads, 123 Back stitch, 112 Basting, 108 Bibliography, 103, 229 Bleaching, 78 Bobbin, 19 Boning waist, 192 Bow, the, 208 Burling, 83 Bust form, 168 Button holes, 141 large, 145 making, 144 Buttons, sewing on, 145 Carding, 59 Care of clothing, 219 Cassimere twills, 73, 75 Cat stitch, 116 Catch stitch, 116 Chain stitch, 116 Checks, 213 Children's clothes, 216, 217 Cleaning, 59, 221 Collars, 198 putting on, 199 Color in dress, 214 Colors, mordant, 79 Combing, 60 Conventional designs, 213 Costumes, references, 234 Cotton, 29 boles, 32 fibers, 34 Cotton goods, 85 home of, 30 Nankin, 34 sea island, 30 upland, 30 Cross stitch, 120 Cuffs, 196 Cutting table, 168 Darning, 155 on machine, 158 over net, 157 Decorations, placing, 208 Distaff, 12 Double cloth, 77 Draped waist, 192 Drawing tapes, 140 Dressmaking, 167 Dyeing, 78 home, 80 Dyes, aniline, 79 Dyestuffs, natural, 80 Embroidery, 204 as ornament, 204 eyelet, 122 shadow, 123 stitches, 114 Extension hem, 227 Eyelet embroidery, 122 Eyelets, 149 Fabrics, 85 list of, 96 -102 names of, 94 primitive, 27 width of, 93 Facing, bias, 141 skirt, 179 Fastening the thread, 109 Fastenings, 141

Feather stitch, 118 Fibers, 29 cotton, 29 flax, 43 silk, 53 wool, 37 Finishes, 139 Finishing skirt, 179 seams, 196 waist, 192 Finishing, woolens, 83 Fitting, 173, 193 sleeves, 190 waists, 190 Flax, 43 fibers, 47 hackling, 44, 47 Flocks, 83 Folding garments, 220 French hem, 127 knots, 119 seam, 131 Fulling, 83 Fur, 40 Gathering, 111, 138 Gathers, whipped, 127 Gauging, 112 Gigging, 83 Gingham, 86 Grease spots, 122 Hand sewing, 107 Harmony in dress, 215 Harness, the, 70 Heddle, 17 Hemp, 50 Hem stitch, 118 Hems, 123 bias, 124 faced, 124 flannel, 127 French, 127 folding, 123 Hems, rolled, 126 Herringbone stitch, 116 Home dyeing, 80 Hook and eyes, 147 Hydroscopic moisture, 42 Jacquard loom, 70 Joining lace, 160 Jute, 50 Knit goods, 72 Lace, design of, 208 Laces, use of, 207 Laundering, 225 Lengthening garments, 226 Linen, 86 adulteration of, 87 characteristics of, 47 Lining, cutting, 188 Loading silk, 56 Looms, 17 Colonial, 19, 21, 22 development of, 19 diagram of, 23 fly shuttle, 26 four harness, hand, 21 Jacquard, 70 Japanese, 20 modern, 25, 69 Navajo, 18 Swedish hand, 24 Loop stitch, 116 Madder bleach, 78 Machine darning, 158 sewing, 162 Mending, 83, 225 Mitering embroidery, 158 Modern methods, 59 Mohair, 90 Mordant colors, 79 Muslin, 85 Nankin cotton, 34 Natural dyestuffs, 80

Olona, 53 Ornament, 203 embroidery as, 204 fitness of, 209 flowers as, 205 of textiles, 212 Ornamental stitches, 108, 114 Ornamentation, errors in, 204 Outline stitch, 114 Overcasting, 114, 142 Oversewing, 113 Packing clothing, 220 Passementerie, 206 Patching, 149 Patterns, 171 altering, 173 cloth, 174 lengthening, 173 pinning, 176 placing, 176 selection of, 171 testing, 174 use of, 172 Picking, 59 Piled fabrics, 91 Plackets, 135 faced, 137 Plaids, 213 Plain material, 212 Plush, 77 Pressing, 201 board, 168, 201 wet, 202 Primitive methods, 3 Printing, 81 block, 81 machine, 81 warps, 82 Ramie, 50 Raw silk, 56 Reed, 19 Reeling silk, 54 Repairing, 225 Retting flax, 45 Roving, 61 Running stitch, 110 Sateen weave, 79 Satin, 91 stitch, 121 Scouring agents, 41 Sea island cotton, 30 Seams, 128 beaded, 131 felled, 128 flannel, 135 French, 131 lapped, 133 slot, 131 Serges, 88 Seven-gored skirt, 172 Sewing, hand, 107 machine, 162 Sewing machines, 162 care of, 162 types of, 162 use of, 164 Shadow embroidery, 123 Sheep, 39 Shirt waists, cutting, 182 plan for making, 183 Shuttle, 19 Silk, 53 artificial, 58 boiling off, 56 fiber, 53 loading, 56, 90 production, 53 raw, 56 twilled, 91 Silk, wash, 91 Silk worm, 54 Silks, 90 Singeing, 78 Skirt, 172 band, 179

Skirt binding, 180 braid, 180 making, 177 placket, 178 plan of making, 173 stiffening, 178 Sleeve making, 183 patterns, 194 Sleeves, cutting, 194, 195 finish of, 197 pressing, 198 putting in, 197 Slip-stitching, 125 Slot seams, 131 Speck dye, 83 Spindle, 6 whorl, 6 Spinning, 3, 59 primitive, 3 wheel, 12 with spindle, 6 Stains, 221 Stitches, 107 ornamental, 108, 114 plain, 107 Stockinet undergarments, 216 Stripes, 213 Stroking gathers, 111 Table linen, 87 Teazels, 83 Textile arts, origin of, 3 Textiles, 85, 212 design of, 212 list of, 96, 102 ornament of, 212 weaves, 72 Texture, 214 Trimming, 210 Tweeds, 88 Harris, 89 Twills, 74 Cassimere, 73, 75 uneven, 75 Tucked waist, 185 Tucking, 108 Tucks, 128 Unity in dress, 211 Upland cotton, 30 Velvet, 92 weave of, 77 Velveteen, 92 Waists, 185 lined, 186 plan for making, 187 repairing, 227 tucked, 185 Wash silk, 91 Warping, 69 Weave, 72 diagrams, 73 plain, 73 basket, 76 double cloth, 77 rib, 76 sateen, 76 twill, 74 velvet, 77 Weaving, 14, 69 Wet Pressing, 202 Wheel spinning, 12 Whipping stitch, 113 Whorl, spindle, 6 Widths of fabrics, 93 Wool, 37 characteristics of, 37 fiber, 36 quality of, 38 scouring, 40 sorting, 40 value for clothing, 37 Woolens, 88 Worsteds, 88 Yokes, 200