CONTENTS.

PAGE

Introduction xxi

CHAPTER I.

Norway—Our gipsy tent—Tent fittings—Cooking apparatus—Commissariat—Gipsies’ tent—Bagage de luxe—Weight of baggage—Transit—Donkeys—Our party—Esmeralda 1

CHAPTER II.

Gipsy equipment—Norwegian gipsies—Prœsten Eilert Sundt—The Hull steamer—The tourist’s friend—Our gipsy song 11

CHAPTER III.

A friend’s misgiving—Dark forebodings—A sleepless night—The railway station—The Albion—A philosopher—The street boy—Distinguished travellers 19

CHAPTER IV.

England’s farewell—Summer tourists—The chevalier—Seafaring—A gipsy reception—Change of plans—Norwegian pilot—The Birmingham bagman—Inducement to authorship—Strange wills—A sailor’s philosophy—Icelandic language—Prognostications 26

CHAPTER V.

A seaman’s adventures—The unfortunate tourist-An apt quotation—Freemasonry—Christiansand—Past recollections—The Runic stone—Overpayment—Two salmon fishermen—A traveller’s curiosity—Norwegian snakes—Scenery—We are one—Golden opinions 36

CHAPTER VI.

Mariner’s life—The evasive answer—A true presentiment—The King of Norway and Sweden—The beautiful fjord—Gipsy music—A custom-house difficulty—Another Freemason—Appropriate verses Christiania—Horse money—17, Store Strandgade 46

CHAPTER VII.

The Victoria Hotel—The Gipsies’ friend—The passe-partout-Prœsten Eilert Sundt—The Christiania railway—Our donkeys appreciated—Gipsy spirit—The “tolk”—Norwegian money—Linguistic difficulties—Gipsy authors—Gipsy numerals—Departure from Christiania 54

CHAPTER VIII.

A Norwegian officer—Norwegian emigration—Eidsvold—The Skydskiftet—Quiet retreat—Happy hours—Baiersk öl—Esmeralda’s toilette—The transformation—Curious address—New acquaintance—Noah’s engagement—Noah’s conquest—An ungrateful visitor—A reluctant parting 64

CHAPTER IX.

Moderate bill—Provisions lost—We meet again—Gipsies in advance—Left alone—A welcome telegram—Norwegian bath room—Singular paintings—Once more farewell—The telegraph clerk—The Mjösen Lake—The Dronningen—Ruined cathedral—Utilitarianism—Lillehammer—Once more in camp 75

CHAPTER X.

Our first camp—Camp visitors—Gipsy music-Foreign tableau—Curious observations—Preparations for departure—Early start—Laing’s suggestions—The Gudbransdalen—The Hunnefos—The Australian meat—Camp rules—The pair of gloves—Sudden Shadows—Our talisman—New friends 89

CHAPTER XI.

Night alarm—The Puru Rawnee—Donkeys admired—Norwegian ponies—Our gipsy life—Norwegian flowers—Wild forest—The pipe of tobacco—Pictures of imagination—The crippled man—Camp near Holmen—Noah’s self-denial—Wet night—Peasant girls’ serenade—Zachariah’s gaiety—Lovely nature—Norwegian newspaper—The mystery explained—Frokost spoilt 102

CHAPTER XII.

Unsuccessful fishing—A military officer—The dernier ressort—Our gipsy reception—Interrupted toilette—Fête champêtre—Dancing on the greensward—Tincture of cedar—The disappointment—The Losna Vand—The kettle prop lost—Peasant children—Interesting discussions—Writing under difficulties—The kindly heart 118

CHAPTER XIII.

Wet travelling—Vodvang—Our Russian lamp—Swedish visitors—All well—Our hobbinengree—The child of nature—Guitar songs—The village beau—Merles gone—The musketos’ victory—More rain—Scotch traveller—Timber floaters—Gipsies—Enraged Englishman—The frightened skydskarl—Gipsies’ endurance—The Listari commotion—Listad scenery 129

CHAPTER XIV.

A gorgio—Comfortable bondegaards—More speile—The lost key—Den Asen toujours—Vegetable substitute—The goodlo discussion—Wives’ utility—Friendly peasants—Norwegian waltz—Gipsy chaff—The dark woman—Anxious querists—Early visitors—Timid woman—Gipsies appreciated—The charming post-mistress—The mansion near Harpe Brö 145

CHAPTER XV.

The velocipede—Roadside halt—Lovely scenery—Disappointed audience—The little gipsy—The lost pocket—The search—Gipsy lamentation—Amused peasant girls—Norwegian honesty—The pocket found—A noble heart—Pleasant voyageurs—Patrins—Storklevstad—Tambourine lost—Norwegian honesty—Eccentric visits—Interrogatory—The captain—The interview—The village magnate—Meget godt—Esmeralda in camp—The last visit—The moorland maiden 158

CHAPTER XVI.

Colonel Sinclair—Qvam church—Death of Sinclair—Monsieur le Capitaine—The Highflyer—The Hedals—Romantic legend—Antique mansion—The Kringelen—Kind reception—Warm welcome—The broken tent-pole—The reindeer hunter—The Rudane Fjelde—Gipsy-looking woman—More fish—Chiromancy Esmeralda’s fortune—The handsome captain—His sporting adventure—Esmeralda’s gift—Our soirée dansante—Gipsies’ glee 174

CHAPTER XVII.

Gipsies’ affection—Laurgaard adieu—Beautiful gorges—Onward ever—Esmeralda’s Irish song—Dovre—Friendly travellers—The Landhandelri—The Herr Tofte—King’s visit—Our night camp—Night disturbance—Kindness to animals—Our beautiful bouquet—Snehætten Fjeld—Dombaas—Comfortable situation—Wild scenery—Opportune visit—Illusory hope 190

CHAPTER XVIII.

The new tent pole—What is indigestion?—Peasants at camp—A new friend—Holaker station—Norwegian honesty—Lœsje Vand—The tetteramengry—An unsolved mystery—The gipsy collapse—Good advice—Interest in donkeys—A mountain district—No church bells—The boy’s questions—The Kjölen Fjeldene 202

CHAPTER XIX.

Esmeralda at the lake—Our cadeau—The visitors—Disappointment—An Adonis—The silent visit—The old mill—A Norwegian fox—The Puru Rawnee’s fall—The forest scene—Zachariah’s torment—Under discipline—Music in the forest—Distant admirers—The English hunter’s gift—Our gipsies fishing—The militia camp—Silent visitor—Ornamental fladbröd—A forest concert 213

CHAPTER XX.

Noah unwell—The tine—New scenes—The leper—Hasty departure—Lesjevœrks Vand—Well met—Agreeable wanderers—Specialty of travel—Delicious trout—Lake scenery—Norwegian postman—Night visitor—More tourists—Molmen church 227

CHAPTER XXI.

The Rauma—A lofty climb—More rain—The forest walk—Tent life—Peasant fête—Norwegian dancing—Zachariah’s ride—The wood carvings—A psalmodion—Stueflaaten—The Romsdal—Magnificent scenery—English spoken 237

CHAPTER XXII.

The Dontind—Ormein—Mountain road—Our bivouac—Delighted visitor—The water elf—Excited gipsies—Tage en Stol—Norwegian girls—Sunday on the Rauma—Carriole travelling—Coming to grief—“Spille” a little—Esmeralda’s birthday—The Norwegian climate—The Sjiriaglns—Uncomfortable bed—The large ant 248

CHAPTER XXIII.

Musical peasant—Cascades—The leaning-stone—The serious peasant—Zachariah ill—No ventilation—The Magician’s Peaks—The Mangehöe—“Ramulous”—Romantic valley—Agreeable visitors—The serenade—Future route—Horgheim—Rip van Winkle 261

CHAPTER XXIV.

The invalid—Restive donkeys—Fiva—Aak—Veblungsnœs—The Norwegian farmer—The grassy knoll—A Norwegian town—The fjord’s shore—The Veblungsnœs’ baths—Herr Solberg—Homme galant—Musical conversazione—Gipsy music 273

CHAPTER XXV.

Purchases—Zachariah’s trouble—Esmeralda’s photograph—The kiöd—Price of meat—The yachtsmen—The three peaks—The spirit-world—Frost-bites—Ultima Thule—Esmeralda galvanised—The fjord—Heen Kirke—Parelius—Eider ducks—Beautiful bouquets 285

CHAPTER XXVI.

Our guide—To the mountains—Mystic light—The photographs—The “Claymore” yacht—Norwegian gipsies—Singular race—Occupations—Gipsy burials—Romantic love—Predestination—The bondegaard—The high demand—Esmeralda’s souvenir 297

CHAPTER XXVII.

Adieu, Aak—Romsdalshorn—Troldtinderne—Fladmark—Young Norwegian ladies—Our fair visitors—A night scene—Morning meal—Exhausted peasants—Esmeralda’s compliment—A gipsy cuisine—How gipsies sleep—Our guide arrives—The invisible bather—The race—The river Gröna 307

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Botanising—Esmeralda lost—Found again—The Eagle—Mountain difficulties—Mountain bivouac—Esmeralda ill—Ole’s bed—Hotel bills—Rough route—Donkeys in snow—The Puru Rawnee down—The Ny sœter—Gipsy discussion—The Englishman’s house—Hospitality—Norwegian names—Fillingshö—Large lake 319

CHAPTER XXIX.

The peasants’ wood—Skeaker—Our fair visitor—Esmeralda’s indignation—The gipsy hornpipe—The fate of Ezekiel—Feeble advocacy—The Rankny rackly—The Otta Vand 332

CHAPTER XXX.

The wasps’ nest—Lom—Kind friends—Songs of Björnsen—The Prœsten’s ministration—The repulsed student—Beautiful valley—The two artists—The Bœver Elven—Rödsheim—The ravine—The lost stardy—Ascent of Galdhöpiggen—The highest mountain in Norway—The night ascent—The dome of snow—The sunrise 340

CHAPTER XXXI.

The reindeer’s fate—Desolate scene—Several ascents—The frightened peasants—A coat lost—Esmeralda’s views—Absent treasures—Ole re-engaged—A new kettle prop—The handsome artist—Comfortable station—Adieu, Rödsheim—Our excellent guide—Crossing the bridge—Zachariah’s escape 352

CHAPTER XXXII.

The Elv Sœter—A mountaineer—The Ytterdal Sœter—To make gröd—The gröd stick—Evening concert—A wild night—The waterfall—Mountain glaciers—The Lera Elv—Camp by a glacier—Nomadic happiness—A gipsy maëlstrom—Insect life 363

CHAPTER XXXIII.

The Virgin Peak—Esmeralda in the Lera—A dripping Nereid—Heavy clouds—The Church Mountain—Wild reindeer—Where’s the tea?—Singular glacier—Valley of red sandstone—The Hunter’s Cave—The Utladal Stöl—The Mumpley Valley—Flödsgröd—A mountain stöl—A rough path—The Puru Rawnee’s escape—The narrow bridge 374

CHAPTER XXXIV.

A difficult crossing—Again en route—Skögadal Sœter—Sœter accommodation—Splendid scenery—The Skögadals Elv—The mysterious bone—Mountain exploration—The pack horses—A slippery floor—Music in the Sœter—Flœskedal Stöl—The Mörk Fos—Magnificent fall—The cliff’s edge—The iris—All pay and no comfort—A reindeer shot—The deserted farm—A mountain shadow 389

CHAPTER XXXV.

The Meisgrie—We cross a river—The slippery rock—An active guide—The carrier’s aid—The lame horse—Melkedalstinderne—The stony way—The Nedrevand—Ole’s night quarters—The lake by moonlight—Early rising—Eisbod on the Bygdin Lake—The poet’s house—Vinje, the poet—The poetical mortgage—Pleasant acquaintance—Old Norwegian poetry—The reindeer hunter—Esmeralda condoned 404

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Lake Tyen—The Tourist Club châlet—Lortwick Sœter—Lake driftwood—A cold morning—A cheap meal—Thunder in the air—Sunshine again—The separation—The gallant Ole farewell—To Christiania—Energy always—Push on—The Bergen road—The violinist—One dollar more—Picturesque scene 420

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Camp on Lille Mjösen—The Skjyri Fjeld—An acquaintance from Eisbod—Camp rules confirmed—Our gipsy Noah—English spoken—Singular stone—Öiloe station—Our friend from Eisbod—Artist souvenirs—Zachariah’s sport—Fast travelling—Harvest time—Secluded camp—Able pleading—The Stee Station—Obliging hostess—Tether rope lost—The kindly welcome—An Englishman’s wish—An open-air concert—Esmeralda’s flowers—Adieu, but remembered—A mid-day rest 433

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

An English fisherman—The haunted mill—The tourist’s purchase—Noah’s good fortune—The Strand Fjord—A woman’s curiosity—The heroine of our book—A Norwegian seaman—The mistaken mansion—The Aurdal church—Frydenlund Station—A roadside halt—The appreciated gift—The severe young lady—The kind-hearted peasant—Krœmmermoen—Impulse and reason 449

CHAPTER XXXIX.

The gipsy signal—Our Australian meat—The fair poetess—Our friend from Eisbod ill—The Rye’s unwell—The Lehnsmœnd of Bang—The ferryman and son—We cross to Beina—Tatersprog—A kind family—Storsveen Station—Secluded valley—A tourist lels us—Esmeralda’s adventure—The peasant women’s song—Sorum Station—Tents pitched by a lagoon—Nœs—No horseboat—Impromptu horseboat—How we got across—A river scene 460

CHAPTER XL.

We leave the Beina—The Lille pige—Any port in a storm—The fairies’ visit—The Spirilen—Ytre Aadalen Val—Large bondegaard—Heen woodland camp—Evening visitors—The Hönefos—Intelligent postmaster—Norderhoug church—Halt near Vik—The gipsies’ political philosophy—Noah and the philanthropist Steens Fjord—The Krogkleven—Beautiful gorge—Camp near the King’s View 477

CHAPTER XLI.

Summer waning—Norwegian scenery—Splendid views—The cross fire—Sorte Död—Romantic camp—Mandy’s a Rye—The tourist’s dog—The Hobbenengree’s surprise—The Baron at Bœrums Verk—Snake killed near our tent—Our last night in camp—Adieu, camp life 490

CHAPTER XLII.

Christiania—Generous offer—Advice we do not take—The paper-viken fishermen—Christophersen’s—Norway, farewell—Donkeys’ accommodation—Want of feeling—Our steward—The gipsies’ friends—The Spanish courier—The literary American—The gipsies’ mal de mer—The donkeys in a smoke room—The lost necklace—England’s shore—To our readers 500

CHAPTER XLIII.

Alluring promises—Compliment to Englishmen—True sketches of gipsy life—The gipsies’ origin—Yet a mystery—Esmeralda—Noah and Zachariah—Before the curtain—The end 511

Appendix I. 517

Appendix II. 527

Appendix III. 529

Appendix IV. 532

Appendix V. 538