INDEX
Reading edition
Arab hats, 5
Argos, 3
Austin, T. G., 12
Bamboo, 18
Bast, 3, 35
Black Forest, claims of, 6
Bleaching, history, 60
—— methods, 60, 62, 63
Blocking by hand, history, 93
—— tools, 93, 94, 98
—— methods, 96, 104
—— by machine, history, 100
—— —— various machines, 101, 102, 106, 108
Blockmaking, history, 66
—— method, 67
—— woods used, 69
—— of plaster, 69
Bonnet, 5
British straw plaits, 11, 15, 18
—— —— hats, 6, 9
Cesare Cantu, 9
Chinese plaits, 19
Compo, stiffening, 91
Cotton plaits, 18
Coryat’s crudities, 10
Dyeing, history, 52
—— methods, 53, 57, 58
—— plant, 54
Enamelling split, 91
Etruscans and Etruria, 3
Fastolfe, Sir John, 6
Fiesole, woven plait, 30
Finishing, 111
Franks, the, 3
Gerard, 3
Greeks, the, 3
Hemp for plaits, 18, 33
Hera, hat of, 3
Hood hats, preparation, 37
—— ——, method of making, 38
—— ——, Bankok, 42
—— ——, Bowen, 41
—— ——, Brazilian, 42–44
—— ——, chip, 42
—— ——, Curaçoa, 41
—— ——, hemp, 42
—— ——, Hinoki, 41
—— ——, Java, 41
—— ——, Leghorn, 14, 71
—— ——, Manila, 42
—— ——, Panama, 36
—— ——, paper, 42
—— ——, raffia, 43
—— ——, rush, 42
—— ——, Yedda, 43
Horsehair plaits, 18
Italian plaits, 10, 14
Japanese plaits, 19
Kausia, 2
La Croix, 3
“La dame au chapeau de Poil,” 8
Leathers for lining, 119
Leghorn, 13
Lining hats, 115
Machines, sewing, 21, 22, 23
——, blocking, 24
——, plaiting, 49
Machines, milling, 82
Mary, Queen of Scots, 10
Mercury, hat of, 3
Milan or Pedale, 19
Oiling chip hats, 112
Oldmixon, 11
Pausanias, 3
Penelope, hat of, 4
Pepys, 7
Petasus, 2
Plaits, bamboo, 18
——, bast, 35
——, cotton, 18
——, hemp, 18
——, horsehair, 18
——, raffia, 18
——, rush, 35
——, rye straw, 7, 14
——, silk, 18
——, sinnet, 35, 112
——, Tuscan, 14
——, wheat straw, 14
——, wood shavings, 18
——, yedda, 35
Plaitters, 28, 29
Plaitting centres:
Belgium, 30
China, 19
Dunstable, 15
Essex, 15
Hemel Hempstead, 15
Japan, 19
Panama, 36
Ripon (Yorks), 15
Saxony, 33
Switzerland, 18
—— machines, 49
—— methods, 27, 30, 32, 45
Poetical allusions:
Ben Jonson, 7
Gay, 9
Shakespeare, 7
Spenser, 6
Thynne, 6
Virgil, 5
Polishing, 112
Pompeii, 4
Praxiteles, 3
Preparation of straws, 25
—— of chip, 33
Romans, the early, 3
Rubens, Peter Paul, 8
Rye straw, 7, 14
Semi-trimmed hats, 122
Sewing, hand method, 72, 76
——, machine method, 73, 81
—— machines, 21, 22, 23, 73
Signa, 10
Sparterie, 51
Speckled plaits, 57
Splitting of straws, 27
Stephanos, 3
Stiffening, history, 84
—— materials, 85, 88, 90
—— method, 86, 88, 90
Straw, 3
—— pipes, 16
—— splints, 16
—— splitters, 17
Swiss plaits, 18
Tagal, 34
Tansley, 17
Tégal, 34
Ticketing, 117
Tippers, 70
Tomlinson, 13
Trimming, 118
Tuscan plait, 14
Tutulus, 4
Twist plait, 19
Vatican, 3
Virgil, pastorals, 5
Waller, John, 11
Waterproofing, 114
Wiring, 115
Printed in Bath, England, by Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd.
and
A Barry Hat GUARANTEED
surpasses all
The production of FRANCOIS BARRY, 83 Great Portland St., London, W.1
CABLE ADDRESS: IMMEDIATE, LUTON
TELEPHONE NO. 20 LUTON
WELCH & SONS, Ltd. LUTON BEDS, ENGLAND
IMPORTERS AND EXPORTERS OF ALL KINDS OF JAPANESE, CHINESE, ITALIAN and SUISSE PLAITS For HAT MANUFACTURE
BLEACHING A SPECIALITY
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Codes: Western Union Bentley’s Marconi Vol. I PRIVATE
MANUFACTURERS OF
LADIES’, MAIDS’ and CHILDREN’S HATS
TRIMMED AND UNTRIMMED
ALLEN & SON, Ltd.
ESTABLISHED 1892 'PHONE 124 LUTON
59–61 BUTE STREET LUTON, BEDS ENGLAND
Telegrams: KERSHAW, LUTON
Telephone Nos.: LUTON, 742, 743 (Branch Exchange).
J. C. Kershaw & Co. Limited
Ladies’ and Men’s Straw and Felt Hat Manufacturers and Plait Merchants
Codes: A.B.C. 5th EDITION. BENTLEYS. MARCONI.
George Street, Luton
Use
Willcox & Gibbs “HANDSTITCH” for making the Concealed Stitch so essential in all first-class work.
UNAPPROACHED ON ANY PLAIT.
All best grade hats are made with the world-famed “Handstitch.”
The W. & G.
VISIBLE STITCH Straw Hat Machines are Fast-running, Economical, Adaptable and Durable.
Both types of machines are extensively used in all plait-sewing centres throughout the world.
Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Co., Ltd.
Chief Office: 20 Fore Street, London, E.C.2. Luton Office: Silver Street.
PATENT No. 182035 FOREIGN PATENTS PENDING
BROWN & GREEN Ltd.
Hatters’ Machinery Manufacturers
Windsor Street, Castle Street & South Road LUTON, BEDS, ENGLAND
ESTABLISHED 1840 (THE OLDEST ESTABLISHED HOUSE IN THE TRADE) Telephone 104 Luton. Telegrams “Gem Luton.”
This is our latest pattern HAT BLOCKING MACHINE
AND HAS BEEN DESIGNED TO SUPPLY A LONG-FELT NEED, VIZ.—
A MACHINE IN WHICH THE OPERATOR HAS COMPLETE VISIBILITY OF HIS WORK,
WHERE THE BLOCKING OPERATION IS CONTINUOUS,
WHERE HEAVY LIFTING IS ELIMINATED,
WHERE SUPERFLUOUS STEAM IS ELIMINATED,
WHERE YOU GET A MUCH GREATER OUTPUT,
WHERE TWO CHAMBERS ARE WORKING CONTINUALLY INSTEAD OF ONE,
WHERE BLOCKING IS ALMOST MADE FOOLPROOF.
ALL CASTINGS ARE OF THE BEST MATERIAL: HEAVY WHERE REQUIRED AND NEAT IN APPEARANCE AND ARE STANDARDIZED THROUGHOUT.
THIS MACHINE HAS BEEN TESTED UNDER WORKING CONDITIONS WITH EVERY SUCCESS AND WE CLAIM IT TO BE THE MOST PERFECT MACHINE IN USE.
ALL MACHINES ARE TESTED TO HEAVY HYDRAULIC PRESSURE BEFORE LEAVING OUR WORKS AND A CERTIFICATE OF TEST SUPPLIED IF DESIRED.
PRACTICAL DEMONSTRATIONS CAN BE ARRANGED AT OUR WORKS AT ANY TIME.
MADE FOR EITHER HAND OR POWER.
BROWN & GREEN Ltd.
Hatters’ Machinery Manufacturers
Windsor Street, Castle Street & South Road LUTON, BEDS, ENGLAND
ESTABLISHED 1840 (THE OLDEST ESTABLISHED HOUSE IN THE TRADE) Telephone 104 Luton. Telegrams “Gem Luton.”
Telegraphic Address: “Honorfides, Luton”
Telephone Nos. 1018 and 1019 (Hats) 500 (Plaits)
Codes: A B C (4th and 5th Editions) and Bentley’s
A. HUCKLESBY & Co. LIMITED
Plait Merchants Hat Manufacturers
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Agents and Importers of Straw Plaits and Braids RIBBONS, GELATINES, COTTONS, CANE, PAPER, RUBBER GOODS, and all HAT MAKERS’ REQUISITES STOCKED
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46 & 48 George St., and 1, 2 & 3 Bond St.
Factories:
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LUTON