Note 215 — Chapter XIV · WOMEN'S DRESS.

The 'commode' must have been so named on the same lucus à non lucendo principle as the night cap and gown; for a more inconvenient headdress, perhaps, was never invented. It originated in the Court of Louis XIV., and was there called a fontange because it had been introduced by Mademoiselle Fontange.[215] It was also named a 'head' or a 'top knot' and was made of rows of plaited muslin, or lace, stiffened with wire, one over the other, diminishing as they rose. During the reign, their fashion and shape altered very much, as is noticed by Addison: 'There is not so variable a thing in Nature as a Lady's Head Dress: Within my own Memory I have known it rise and fall above thirty Degrees. About ten years ago it shot up to a very great Height, insomuch that the Female Part of our Species were much taller than the men.'[216] The numerous examples given in the illustrations of this book render any further reference to the 'commode' unnecessary, as the reader will there see it depicted in every stage. The cut on this page is only given because it shows it on a larger scale than any other, and is, besides, interesting, as forming one of a pack of cards (1707).