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Siam and Laos, as Seen by Our American Missionaries

OUR AMERICAN MISSIONARIES.

Reading edition

“Siam has not been disciplined by English and French guns, like China, but the country has been opened by missionaries.”—​Remark of His Grace the late Ex-Regent of Siam.

FULLY ILLUSTRATED.

PHILADELPHIA: PRESBYTERIAN BOARD OF PUBLICATION, No. 1334 CHESTNUT STREET.

COPYRIGHT, 1884, BY

THE TRUSTEES OF THE

PRESBYTERIAN BOARD OF PUBLICATION.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Westcott & Thomson, Stereotypers and Electrotypers, Philada.

PREFACE.

This volume is a response to calls for information on Siam and Laos. A score of missionaries have contributed chapters. Some have written amidst conflicting claims of the crowded field-life; others, during brief visits to the home-land; several are children of missionaries and were born in Indo-China; others are noble pioneer workers, whose long years of service abroad are now ended. A few of the chapters originally appeared in a missionary periodical. Two of the writers have “entered into rest.” The editor is much indebted also to the standard works of Pallegoix, Bowring, Crawford, Mouhot and several more recent travelers, to geographical papers and official reports, and to valuable original data furnished by Dr. House, Dr. Cheek and others.

Adaptation and necessary condensation of the information thus gathered make special credit often impossible, but doubtful points have been verified by reference to competent authority, so far as practicable.

The contributions of our missionaries have special value. For years they have been brought into close contact with the people in their homes, schools, wats and markets, mingling as honored guests in social gatherings and at official ceremonials, enjoying full opportunity of studying the natives at work, at play and at worship. As teachers, physicians, translators and trusted counselors they are recognized as public benefactors by the king and many high officials. Siam owes the introduction of printing, European literature, vaccination, modern medical practice, surgery and many useful mechanical appliances to our American missionaries. They have stimulated philosophical inquiry, paved the way for foreign intercourse with civilized nations, given a great shock to the grosser forms of idolatry among the more enlightened, leavened the social and intellectual ideas of the “Young Siam” party, and, almost imperceptibly, but steadily, undermined the old hopeless Buddhist theories with the regenerating force of gospel truth.

The young king publicly testified on a late occasion: “The American missionaries have lived in Siam a long time; they have been noble men and women, and have put their hearts into teaching the people, old and young, that which is good, and also various arts beneficial to my kingdom and people. Long may they live, and never may they leave us!”

May this volume aid in arousing a more intelligent and generous interest in this field—​the sacred trust of our American Presbyterian Church; may it promote a truer sense of the heroic sacrifices, the patient and multiplied labors, of the noble band who for the past half century have toiled and waited in hope for the spiritual regeneration of the Siamese and Laos!

Schenectady, May, 1884.

N. B. Uniformity in the spelling of Siamese and Laos proper names is not yet attainable. Different ears catch the foreign sounds and transliterate them differently, giving an endless variation. Thus the single city which we give as Cheung Mai, following Dr. Cheek, may be found in books and maps as Cheng Mai, Cheang Mai, Zimma, Chang Mai, etc. To ascertain the pronunciation in such cases, see what one pronunciation can be made to cover all of these spellings. It is hoped that the present volume is a step in the direction of a correct transliteration of Siamese names.

CONTENTS.

PART I.

SIAM.

CHAPTER I.

The Indo-Chinese Peninsula. An Introductory Sketch. PAGE 15

CHAPTER II.

Sight-Seeing in Bangkok. Mrs. S. R. House, formerly of Bangkok. 81

CHAPTER III.

Touring in Siam. Mrs. S. R. House, formerly of Bangkok. 96

CHAPTER IV.

In and About Petchaburee. Miss Sarah Coffman, Petchaburee. 112

CHAPTER V.

Animals of Siam. Mrs. S. R. House, Bangkok. 120

CHAPTER VI.

The Chinese in Siam. Mrs. N. A. McDonald, Bangkok. 145

PART II.

VARIETIES OF SIAMESE LIFE.

CHAPTER VII.

A Siamese Wedding. Mrs. J. W. Van Dyke, Petchaburee. 162

CHAPTER VIII.

Housekeeping in Siam. Miss M. L. Cort, Petchaburee. 175

CHAPTER IX.

Child-Life in Siam. Miss H. H. McDonald, Bangkok. 184

CHAPTER X.

First Hair-Cutting of a Young Siamese. Samuel R. House, M. D., Bangkok. 193

CHAPTER XI.

The Schools of Siam. Mrs. S. G. McFarland, Bangkok. 206

CHAPTER XII.

Holidays in Siam. Mrs. S. R. House, Bangkok. 224

CHAPTER XIII.

A Gambling Establishment. The late D. Bradley, M. D., Bangkok. 233

CHAPTER XIV.

Siamese Theory and Practice of Medicine. E. A. Sturge, M. D., Petchaburee. 236

CHAPTER XV.

Cholera-Times in Bangkok. Samuel R. House, M.D. 241

CHAPTER XVI.

Siamese Customs for the Dying and Dead. The late D. Bradley, M. D., of Bangkok. 247

CHAPTER XVII.

The Wats of Siam. A Compilation. 269

PART III.

HISTORICAL SKETCHES.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Historical Sketch of Siam. Rev. Eugene P. Dunlap, Petchaburee. 304

CHAPTER XIX.

Missionary Ladies in the King’s Palace. Mrs. Mattoon, formerly of Bangkok. 320

CHAPTER XX.

Coronation of His Majesty the Supreme King of Siam. Rev. N. A. McDonald, Bangkok. 338

CHAPTER XXI.

History of the Missions in Siam and Laos. Samuel R. House, M. D., Bangkok. 351

PART IV.

LAOS.

CHAPTER XXII.

Laos Land and Life. Mrs. S. C. Perkins, Philadelphia. 419

CHAPTER XXIII.

From Bangkok to Cheung Mai. Mrs. Jonathan Wilson, Cheung Mai. 460

CHAPTER XXIV.

Recollections of Cheung Mai. Miss Emelie McGilvary, Cheung Mai. 479

CHAPTER XXV.

A Day at Cheung Mai. Mrs. Jonathan Wilson, Cheung Mai. 491

CHAPTER XXVI.

A Laos Cabin. Rev. Jonathan Wilson, Cheung Mai. 497

CHAPTER XXVII.

Superstitions of the Laos. Dr. and Mrs. Cheek, Cheung Mai. 504

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Treatment of the Sick. M. R. Cheek, M. D., Cheung Mai. 511

CHAPTER XXIX.

A Tour in the Laos Country. The late G. W. Vrooman, M. D., Cheung Mai. 525

CHAPTER XXX.

China to British India, via Cheung Mai. M. A. Cheek, M. D., Cheung Mai. 543

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

His Supreme Majesty, Chulalangkorn I., King of Siam.

Frontispiece.

Burmese Temple 23

Ruins of a Pagoda at Ayuthia 29

Siamese Gentleman in Modern Court-Dress 32

Siamese Lady in Modern Court-Dress 33

View of Paknam, on the Menam 37

Port of Chantaboon 41

Lion Rock, at the Entrance of the Port of Chantaboon 44

Types of Women of Farther India 57

Scene on an Oriental River 65

The Bread-Fruit 72

The Lotus 74

Bird of Paradise 77

Monkeys Playing with a Crocodile 79

Bangkok, on the Menam 83

House-Sparrow 84

Floating Stores at Bangkok 89

Missionary-Boat for Touring in Siam 97

Prabat 103

House at Petchaburee 113

View of the Mountains of Petchaburee 116

Monkeys 121

Java Sparrows 122

The Cobra 123

Hunting the Crocodile 127

Elephants at Home 129

An Elephant Ploughing 131

The White Elephant 141

Home of Rich Chinaman 146

Chinese Boat-People 151

Chinese Cemetery 152

Paper Prayers 155

Parlor of Chinese House 156

Mission-House 171

Siamese Ladies Dining 179

A Young Siamese Prince 189

A Chinese Street-Show 191

Removal of the Tuft of a Young Siamese 195

A School in Siam 215

A Few of the Children of the Late First King of Siam 223

Carrying the King to the Temple 231

Siamese Actress 234

Cremation Temple: A Temporary Building 251

Tomb of a Bonze 263

Banyan Tree 270

Siamese Temple 271

Temple at Ayuthia 275

Monastery of Wat Sisaket 277

Brass Idol in a Temple at Bangkok 279

The Great Tower of the Pagoda Wat Cheug 283

Buddhist Priest 285

Buddhist Priests gathering Food 295

Ruins of a Temple and Statue at Ayuthia 303

Attaché of Siamese Embassy: Court-Costume in 1883 313

The Late First King and Queen 323

Somdetch Chowfa Chulalangkorn 339

Hall of Audience, Palace of Bangkok 341

Brahman at Worship 345

Coronation of a Laos King 421

A Laos Funeral 429

Tapping the Borassus Palm 449

A Laos Home 499

Camping in a Laos Forest 529

SIAM AND LAOS.

PART I.

SIAM.

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