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Scientific American Supplement, No. 362, December 9, 1882

ANIMALS AND THE ARTS.

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In many of the museums efforts are made to perfect economic collections of animals, so as to show how they can be applied to advantage in the arts and sciences. The collection and preparation of the corals, for example, form an important industry. The fossil corals are richly polished and set in studs and sleeve-buttons, forming rich and ornamental objects. The fossil coral that resembles a delicate chain has been often copied by designers, while the red and black corals have long been used. The best fisheries are along the coasts of Tunis, Algeria, and Morocco, from 2 to 10 miles from shore, in from 30 to 150 fathoms. Good coral is also common at Naples, near Leghorn and Genoa, and on various parts of the sea, as Sardinia, Corsica, Catalonia, Provence, etc. It ranges in color from pure white through all the shades of pink, red, and crimson. The rose pink is most valued. For a long time Marseilles was the market, but now Italy is the great center of the trade, the greater number of boats hailing from Torre del Greco, while outside persons are forced to pay a heavy tax. The vessels are schooners, lateen-rigged, from three to fourteen tons. Large nets are used, which, during the months between March and October, are dragged, dredge-like, over the rocks. A large crew will haul in a season from 600 to 900 pounds. To prevent the destruction of the industry, the reef is divided into ten parts, only one being worked a year, and by the time the tenth is reached the first is overgrown again with a new growth. In 1873 the Algerian fisheries alone, employing 3,150 men, realized half a million of dollars. The choice grades are always valuable, the finest tints bringing over $5 per ounce, while the small pieces, used for necklaces, and called collette, are worth only $1.50 per ounce. The large oval pieces are sent to China, where they are used as buttons of office by the mandarins.

THE CONCH-SHELL.

Somewhat similar in appearance to coral is the conch jewelry, sets of which have been sold for $300. The tint is exquisite, but liable to fade when exposed to the sun. It is made from the great conch, common in Southern Florida and the West Indies. The shells are imported into Europe by thousands, and cut up into studs, sleeve-buttons, and various articles of ornament. These conches are supposed to be the producers of pink pearls, but I have opened hundreds of them and failed to find a single pearl. The conch shell is used by the cameo cutter. Rome and Paris are the principal seats of the trade, and immense numbers of shell cameos are imported by England and America, and mounted in rings, brooches, etc. The one showing a pale salmon-color upon an orange ground is much used. In 1847, 300 persons worked upon these shells in Paris alone, the number of shells used being immense. In Paris 300,000 helmet-shells were used in one year, valued at $40,000 of the bull's mouth, 80,000, averaging a little over a shilling apiece, equal to $34,000. Eight thousand black helmets were used, valued at $9,000. The value of the large cameos produced in Paris in the year 1847 was about $160,000, and the small ones $40,000. In the Wolfe collection of shells at the Museum of Natural History, Central Park, is a fine specimen of the queen conch from the Florida reef, with a fine head cut into the outer surface, showing how it is done. The tools of the worker in cameos are of the most delicate description. Fine files, knitting-needle like implements, triangular-shaped steel cutters, are arranged in a seemingly endless confusion before the worker. The shell or piece of shell to be cut is either lashed or glued to a heavy block or held in the hand, and the face, animal, or other object outlined first with a delicate lead; having thus laid the foundation, the lines are gone over with a delicate needle first, then various kinds, the work gradually growing before the eye, reminding one of the work of the engraver on wood.

LIVING BEETLES, ETC.

Insects have always been used more or less in decoration, especially in Brazil, where the richly-colored beetles of the country are affected as articles of personal adornment. Recently in a Union Square jewelry store a monster beetle was on exhibition, having been sent there for repairs. It was alive, and about its body was a delicate gold band, locked with a minute padlock; a gold chain attached it to the shawl of the owner. Sometimes they are worn upon the headgear, their slow, cumbersome movements preventing them from attracting great attention. They are valued at from $50 to $100 apiece. Snakes, the rich green variety so common in New England, are worn by some ladies as bracelets, while the gorgeous reptiles are often imitated in gold and silver, with eyes of diamonds, rubies, or black pearls. Gold bears are the proper thing now for pins. In the East the chameleon is often worn as a head ornament, the animal rarely moving, and forming at least a picturesque decoration, with its odd shape and sculptured outlines. Various other reptiles, as small turtles, alligators, etc., are pressed into service. The curious soldier-crab has been used as a pin. Placed in a box with a rich pearly shell prepared for the purpose, it will change houses, and then, secured by a gold or silver chain, roams about the wearer, waving its red and blue claws in a warlike manner. Birds are, perhaps, more commonly used as natural ornaments than any other, and a cloak of the skins of humming birds is one of the most magnificent objects to be imagined. One, of a rare species, was once sold in Europe for $5,000. Single birds are often worth $700 or $800. A cloak of the skin of the great auk would bring $8,000 or $10,000. Some of the most beautiful pheasants are extremely valuable--worth their weight in gold. Tiger claws are used in the decoration of hats, and are extremely valuable and hard to obtain.

Within ten years the alligator has become an important factor to the artistic manufacturer. The hide, by a new process, is tanned to an agreeable softness and used in innumerable ways. The most costly bags and trunks are made from it; pocket-books, card-cases, dining-room chairs are covered with it, and it has been used as a dado on the library wall of a well-known naturalist. It makes an excellent binding for certain books. Among fishes the shark provides a skin used in a variety of ways. The shagreen of the shark's ray is of great value. Canes are made of the shark's backbone, the interstices being filled with silver or shell plates. Shark's teeth are used to decorate the weapons of various nations. The magnificent scales, nearly four inches across and tipped with seemingly solid silver, of the giant herring, are used, while scales of many of the tribe have long been used in the manufacture of artificial pearls.

PEARLS.

The latter are perhaps the most valuable of all the offerings of animate nature, and are the results of the efforts of the bivalve to protect itself from injury. A parasite bores into the shell of the pearl bearer, and when felt by the animal it immediately fortifies itself by covering up the spot with its pearly secretion; the parasite pushes on, the oyster piling up until an imperfect pearl attached to the shell is the result. The clear oval pearls are formed in a similar way, only in this case a bit of sand has become lodged in the folds of the creature, and in its efforts to protect itself from the sharp edges, the bit becomes covered, layer by layer, and assumes naturally an oval shape. This growth of the pearl, as it is incorrectly termed, can be seen by breaking open a $500 gem, when the nacre will be seen in layers, resembling the section of an onion. The Romans were particularly fond of pearls, and, according to Pliny, the wife of Caius Caligula possessed a collection valued at over $8,000,000 of our money. Julius Caesar presented a jewel to the mother of Brutus valued at $250,000, while the pearl drank by Cleopatra was estimated at $400,000. Tavernier, the famous traveler, sold a pearl to the Shah of Persia for $550,000. A twenty-thousand-dollar pearl was taken from American waters in the time of Philip II. It was pear-shaped, and as large as a pigeon's egg. Another, taken from the same locality, is now owned by a lady in Madrid who values it at $30,000.

Fresh water pearls are often of great value. The streams of St. Clair County. Ill., and Rutherford County, Tenn., produce large quantities, but the largest one was found near Salem, N. J. It was about an inch across, and brought $2,000 in Paris. The pearls from the Tay, Doon, and Isla rivers, in Scotland, are preferred by many to the Oriental, and in one summer $50,000 worth of pearls have been taken from these localities by men and children. Mother-of-pearl used in the arts is sold by the ton, from $50 to $700 being average prices. The last year's pearl fisheries in Ceylon alone realized $80,000, to obtain which more than 7,000,000 pearl oysters were brought up.

SEPIA AND SILK.

The sepia of the artist comes from a mollusk, and is the fossil or extant ink-bag of a cephalopod or squid, while the cuttle-fish bone is used for a variety of purposes. In the islands of the Pacific the young of the pearly nautilus are strung upon strings and sold for $25 and $20 as necklaces. The tritons are in fair demand, and many tons of cowries are sent to Europe yearly, while the shipment of a thick-lipped strombus in one year to Liverpool amounted to 300,000. The rich coloring of the haliotis is used for inlaying art furniture. From the pinna, silk of a peculiar quality is obtained. It is the byssus or cable of the animal. The threads are extremely fine, and equal in diameter throughout their entire length. It is first cleaned with soap and water, and dried by rubbing through the hands, and finally passed through combs of bone, iron, or wood, of different sizes, so that a pound of the material in the rough gives only about three ounces of pure thread. It is mixed with a third of real silk and spun into gloves, stockings, etc., having a beautiful yellow hue. The articles made from it are, however, not in general use. A pair of gloves from pinna silk would cost $1.50, and stockings about $3. Fine specimens of such work can be seen in the British Museum.

Though not of animal origin, amber is one of the choicest vegetable productions used in the arts. It is the fossil gum of pines. Great beds of it occur at various points in Europe. On the Prussian seaboard it is mined, and often washes ashore. In 1576 a piece of amber was found that weighed thirteen pounds, and for which $5,000 was refused. In the cabinet of the Berlin Museum there is a piece weighing eighteen pounds. Ambergris, from which perfumery is made, is a secretion taken from the intestines of the whale, and a piece purchased from the King of Tydore by the East India Company is reported to have cost $18,000. Whales' teeth, the tusks of elephants, and those of the walrus and narwhal, are all used. Elephants' feet are cut off at a convenient length, richly upholstered, and used as seats; the great toe-nails, when finely polished, giving the novel article of furniture an attractive and unique appearance.

It is probably not generally known that the web of certain spiders has been used. Over 150 years ago, Le Bon, of France, succeeded in weaving the web material into delicate gloves. Prof. B.G. Wilder investigated the question thoroughly, and was a firm believer that the web of the spider had a commercial value, but as yet this has not been realized. It would be difficult to find an animal that does not in some way contribute to the useful or decorative arts.--C.F.H., in N.Y. Post.

A catalogue, containing brief notices of many important scientific papers heretofore published in the SUPPLEMENT, may be had gratis at this office.

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