CONTENTS.
Reading edition
Page
First Pilgrimage.
Hygeian Fountains of Germany 1
The Valetudinarian in pursuit of health 2
The Steamer 2
The Gathering in the Steamer 3
The Conservative Traveller 4
The Sea—the Maas 5
Rotterdam 6
The Hague 8
Haerlem 8
Normal Schools 9
Amsterdam 10
Batavian Characteristics 12-14
Cologne 15-17
The Rhine 18
Drachenfels—Scenery 19
Legend of Drachenfels 22
Do. of Roland and Hildegund 24
Last Nuns of Nonnenwerth 25
Truenfels, or the Rock of Fidelity 27
The Flying Bridge 29
Rheineck renovated 29
Hammerstein, Andernach, &c. 30
Coblentz 30
Ehrenbreitstein—Gibraltar 31
Coblentz to Mayence—omnibussing 33
Stolzenfels, and Legend 33
The Brothers—Legend 34
Lurley, or the Echo, with Legend 35
Singular Locality of Echo 37
Schomberg—Reflections 38
The Seven Sisters, or Fate of Coquettes 38
Pfalz 39
The Hall of Mirrors 40
Moral of the Mirrors 42
The Devil’s Ladder 43
Moral of the Ladder 45
The Bridal of Rheinstein 46
The Mouse Tower, and Moral 48
Change of Scene 49
WISBADEN.
Topography of 50
Theories of Mineral Waters 51
Composition of the Waters 52
Effects of the Bath 52
Phenomena produced by the Waters 53
Disorders benefitted by the Waters 55
Counter-indications 56
“Bad-sturm,” or Crisis 57
Hæmorrhoidal Mania 58
Cautions respecting the Baths 59
Directions for using the Waters 60
Spa-life 61
“Cursaals,” or “Curst-Hells” 63
One-sided Morality 64
The Adler, or Eagle Bath 65
Author’s Theory of Kochbrunnen 65
The Dandy of Sixty—Bath Cream 66
Mr. Lee on the Wisbaden Waters 67
SCHLANGENBAD.
Drive from Wisbaden to Schlangenbad 72
The Serpent’s Bath 73
The Cauldron of Medea 74
The Phœnix of Schlangenbad 74
Dr. Granville’s animadversions 75
Waters of Schlangenbad 76
“Order off the Bath” 76
Table d’Hôte at Schlangenbad 77
German Salaam 77
Stomach and Teeth in Germany 79
Value of Life 80
Fame of the Serpent’s Bath 81
SCHWALBACH.
The Three Brunnens 82
Composition of the Waters 83
Effects of the Chalybeates 84
Indications for their Use 84
Counter-indications 85
Mode of taking them 85
The Baths 86
German Society and Manners 86
HEIDELBERG
89
Verbondung, or German Duel 90
BADEN-BADEN.
Scenery—Springs, &c. 94
Ursprung 94
Cautions respecting the Baths 95
Lines Written at the Alten-Schloss 96
Dissipation 97
WILDBAD.
Journey from Baden-Baden to Wildbad 98
The Devil’s Mill 99
The Schwein-General 100
Valley of the Enz 102
The Raft-floaters 103
Topography of Wildbad 104
The Warm Baths 105
The Elysian Fountain 106
Disappointment 107
Bathing in common—pros and cons 108
Composition of the Waters 109
Effects of the Baths and Waters 110
Medicinal Properties 111
The Spa-Fever 112
The “Auxiliary” to Mineral Waters 112
Disorders cured or relieved by Wildbad 113
Counter-indications 116
FALLS OF THE RHINE
117
Zurich 119
Lake of Wallenstadt 120
BATHS OF PFEFFERS
121
Astounding Cavern 125
Source of the Waters 126
Waters of Pfeffers 129
HYDROPATHY; or the Cure of Diseases by Perspiration and Cold Water
131
Calido-frigid Sponging 137
Second Pilgrimage.
Chemin de Mer—Chemin de Fer 139
Antiquity of the Omnibus 139
Belgian Rail-roads 140
Antwerp route to the Spas 141
Reminiscences of the Walcheren Expedition 141
Liege 142
CHAUDE FONTAINE.
Waters of Chaude Fontaine 142
SPA.
Route from Liege to Spa 143
Former Celebrity of Spa 144
Pouhon—Sauveniere—Geronsterre—Tonnelet 145
General Composition of the four Springs 145
Medicinal Agency of the Spa Waters 146
Regimen proper at Spa 147
Environs of Spa 148
Gambling at Spa 149
Decadence of the celebrity of Spa 150
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.
Antiquity and Site of Aix 151
Fontaine Elisée 151
Aspect of the Spa-drinkers 152
Vitality of Mineral Waters 153
Caloricity Hypothesis 153
Disorders benefitted by the Waters 154
BORCETTE.
Waters of the Borcette 154
Antiquities of Aix-la-Chapelle 154
EMS.
Antiquity and locality of Ems 155
A new Sprudel discovered there 155
Composition of the Ems Waters 156
Physiological Operation of the Waters 156
Disorders to which they are applicable 157
Pulmonary Complaints benefitted by Ems 158
Counter-indications 160
Point of Saturation, or Crisis 161
General rules for taking the waters and baths 161
Cautions necessary for using the Baths 163
FRANKFORT.
City and Cemetery—reflections on 164
KISSENGEN.
Situation in the heart of Germany 166
Maxbrunnen—Ragoczy 167
Composition of the Waters 167
Pandur—Soolensprudel—Theresienbrunnen 168
Medicinal Agency of the Kissengen Waters 169
Disorders to which the Waters are applicable 170
Physical effects and medicinal properties of the different Springs 172
The Baths of Kissengen 174
Counter-indications 176
Point of saturation 176
Order of the day at Kissengen 177
Physiognomy of the various Spas 177
BOCKLET.
Acidulous Chalybeate of Bocklet 178
BRUCKENAU.
The purest Chalybeate in Europe 180
FRANZENSBAD.
I. Franzensquelle or Brunn 182
Hufeland’s Testimony to the Waters 184
II. Salzquelle 185
III. Cold Sprudel—IV. Louisenbrunn 186
Gas Baths of Franzensbad 187
Mud Baths of Franzensbad 189
Personal experience of the Mud Baths 190
Disorders to which the Mud-Baths are applicable 191
Mr. Spitta on the Mud-Baths 192
MARIENBAD.
I. The Kreuzbrunn 195
Composition and Physiological effects 195
Disorders to which the Kreuzbrunn is applicable 197
II. Ferdinandsbrunn 198
III. Carolinenbrunn and Ambrosiusbrunn 199
The Baths of Marienbad 201
Physical and Physiological Effects of the Baths 201
Mud-Baths of Marienbad 202
Gas-Baths of Marienbad 203
Physiological and Medicinal Effects 204
Notice of Dr. Herzig’s Work on Marienbad 206
CARLSBAD.
Lobkowitz’s Ode to the Sprudel 208
Ancient History of Carlsbad 209
Description of the Sprudel 210
Muhlbrunn 210
Neubrunn—Theresienbrunn 211
Sprudelsteins and Incrustations 211
Serio-comic Anecdote of a Hypochondriac 212
German Hypotheses respecting the Waters 212
Picturesque situation of Carlsbad 212
Hufeland’s Eulogy of the Carlsbad Waters 213
Lord A’s wonderful cure 213
Melancholy case of Surgeon Fraser 213
Dr. De Carro’s opinions of the Waters 214
Crowd of Hypochondriacs at Carlsbad 215
Counter-indications 216
Bad-sturm, or Crisis, of Carlsbad 217
Regime at Carlsbad 218
Almanac of Carlsbad 219
Changes of fashion respecting the Springs 219
The Sprudel on Calculous Complaints 220
Dr. Hlawaczek on the Carlsbad Waters 221
VALETUDINARIUM.
Physiognomy of Diseases at a great Spa 222
Auxiliaries to Recovery at a large Sanitarium 222
Medicinal Auxiliaries 224
Moral and Physical Auxiliaries 226
GASTEIN; or WILDBAD GASTEIN.
Romantic Situation of this Spa 228
Sources and establishments 228
Qualities of the Waters 229
Disorders to which they are applicable 230
PRAGUE.
Romantic and Picturesque appearance of the City 231
TEPLITZ.
Picturesque Journey from Prague to Teplitz 232
Splendid Bathing Establishments here 232
Temperature of the Springs 233
Former state of Public Baths—modern custom 233
Dr. Richter’s Work on the Teplitz Waters 234
Mode of Bathing and Remedial Agency 235
Disorders to which the Waters are applicable 236
Topography of the Contiguous Country 237
Splendid View from the Spitalberg and Schlossberg 237
Mr. Spitta on the Waters of Püllna, Saidschitz, and Sedlitz 238
TEPLITZ TO TETSCHEN.
Battle-field of Culm—Historical Reminiscences 245
Furious Combat between Vandamme and the Allies 247
Bohemian Thermopylæ 248
Napoleon’s Star fades for ever 248
Tetschen—Count Thun’s Palace 249
Enter Saxon Switzerland 249
Remains of an Antediluvian World 250
Monchenstein, a curious fragment of Rock 251
Hernskretchen, Preberchthor, Kuhstall 251
Kœnigstein, impregnable Fortress of 252
Geological Reflections 253
A German Hotel, comforts of 254
THE BASTEI.
Singularly wild and rude Scene of the Bastei 255
Geological Reflections—Antediluvian World 256
Huge Natural Colliseum, and fine Echo 256
Elbe to Dresden 257
Pillnitz—Regal Felicity—Royal Dramatist 257
DRESDEN.
First Impressions favourable 258
Bridge, Palace, Cathedral, Theatre 258
Magnificent View from the Cupola of the Cathedral 259
Battle-field of August 1814—Tomb of Moreau—Star of Napoleon 259
Character of Napoleon—Exhumation of his Ashes 260
Royal Catholic Church—Music—The Requiem 261
Picture Galleries of Dresden 261
Jargon of the Connoiseurs 261
Chef-d’œuvres of Art 262
The Green Vaults—Reflections in 263
The Rustkammer, or Armoury—Reflections 264
Dresden China 265
Tharand—an Excursion 265
Revolution in Saxony, after that in Paris of 1830 266
Privileges of the People 266
Dresden to Leipzig 267
An Oasis in the Desert 267
LEIPZIG.
The Cradle and Grave of Literature 267
Cerebro-gestation 268
Retrospection from the Observatory 269
The decisive Battle of Leipzig, Oct. 1814 270
Cossack Valour 271
Fall of Napoleon’s Star 271
Magdeburg 272
Advantages of Fortifications 272
Navigation of the Elbe 273
Hamburg 273
Conclusion of the Second Pilgrimage 275
CHARACTERISTIC TRAITS OF GERMANY AND THE GERMANS.
Difficulty of drawing characteristics 276
1. Physiognomy—2. Language—3. Ideology—4. Unanimity 277
5. Patience—6. Religion 277
7. Affability 278
Causes of Affability 278
8. Education 279
Normal Schools 280
9. Learning 281
10. The Press 282
Censorship 282
11. Domestic Manners 283
12. Women 283
13. Morality 284
14. Socialism 284
15. Time 284
Time past 285
Time present and to come 286
16. Titles, Decorations 286
17. Aerophobia 286
18. Female Peasantry 287
19. Status quo 287
20. Locomotion 288
21. The Burschen or Collegiate Youths 289
22. German Cookery 290
23. Gallic and German Patriotism 291
24. Prisons 292
25. Beds and Bed-rooms 293
26. The German Stove versus English Chimney 295
27. Verlobung, or betrothing 296
28. March of Population 297
29. Poetry 298