Preface

I know that of making books of travel there is no limit—they come from the press in a never-ending stream; but no one can say that any one of these is superfluous if it finds appreciative readers, even though they be but few.

My chief excuse for the present volume is the success of my previous books of motor travel, which have run through several fair-sized editions. I have had many warmly appreciative letters concerning these from native Englishmen and the books were commended by the Royal Automobile Club Journal as accurate and readable. So I take it that my point of view from the wheel of a motor car interests some people, and I shall feel justified in writing such books so long as this is the case.

I know that in some instances I have had to deal with hackneyed subjects; but I have striven for a different viewpoint and I hope I have contributed something worth while in describing even well-known places. On the other hand, I know that I have discovered many delightful nooks and corners in Britain that even the guide-books have overlooked.

Besides, I am sure that books of travel have ample justification in the fact that travel itself is one of the greatest of educators and civilizers. It teaches us that we are not the only people—that wisdom shall not die with us alone. It shows us that in some things other people may do better than we are doing and it may enable us to avoid mistakes that others make. In short, it widens our horizon and tones down our self-conceit—or it should do all of this if we keep ears and eyes open when abroad.

I make no apology for the fact that the greater bulk of the present volume deals with the Motherland, even if its title does not so indicate. Her romantic charm is as limitless as the sea that encircles her. Even now, after our long journeyings in every corner of the Island, I would not undertake to say to what extent we might still carry our exploration in historic and picturesque Britain. Should one delight in ivy-covered castles, rambling old manors, ruined abbeys, romantic country-seats, haunted houses, great cathedrals and storied churches past numbering, I know not where the limit may be. But I do know that the little party upon whose experiences this book is founded is still far from being satisfied after nearly twenty thousand miles of motoring in the Kingdom, and if I fail to make plain why we still think of the highways and byways of Britain with an undiminished longing, the fault is mine rather than that of my subject.

In this book, as in my previous ones, the illustrations play a principal part. The color plates are from originals by distinguished artists and the photographs have been carefully selected and perfectly reproduced. The maps will also be of assistance in following the text. I hope that these valuable adjuncts may make amends for the many literary shortcomings of my text.

THOMAS D. MURPHY

Red Oak, Iowa, January 1, 1914.

CONTENTS

Page

IBOULOGNE TO ROUEN1

IITHE CHATEAU DISTRICT29

IIIORLEANS TO THE GERMAN BORDER45

IVCOLMAR TO OBERAMMERGAU59

VBAVARIA AND THE RHINE77

VITHE CAPTAIN’S STORY104

VIIA FLIGHT THROUGH THE NORTH125

VIIITHE MOTHERLAND ONCE MORE145

IXOLD WHITBY157

XSCOTT COUNTRY AND HEART OF HIGHLANDS173

XIIN SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS191

XIIDOWN THE GREAT GLEN210

XIIIALONG THE WEST COAST224

XIVODD CORNERS OF LAKELAND246

XVWE DISCOVER DENBIGH262

XVICONWAY279

XVIITHE HARDY COUNTRY AND BERRY POMEROY298

XVIIIPOLPERRO AND THE SOUTH CORNISH COAST320

XIXLAND’S END TO LONDON336

XXTHE ENGLISH AND THEIR INSTITUTIONS355

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

COLOR PLATES

Page

THE MOUNTAIN MEADOWS, BAVARIAN TYROLFrontispiece

SUNSET IN TOURAINE1

WOODS IN BRITTANY26

PIER LANE, WHITBY164

HARVEST TIME, STRATHTAY180

A HIGHLAND LOCH188

ACKERGILL HARBOUR, CAITHNESS204

GLEN AFFRICK, NEAR INVERNESS208

THE GREAT GLEN, SUNSET210

“THE COTTER’S SATURDAY NIGHT”236

THE FALLEN GIANT—A HIGHLAND STUDY240

CONWAY CASTLE, NORTH WALES280

“THE NEW ARRIVAL”282

KYNANCE COVE, CORNWALL334

SUNSET NEAR LAND’S END, CORNWALL336

“A DISTANT VIEW OF THE TOWERS OF WINDSOR”355

DUOGRAVURES

ST. LO FROM THE RIVER18

A STREET IN ST. MALO24

CHENONCEAUX—THE ORIENTAL FRONT32

AMBOISE FROM ACROSS THE LOIRE34

GRAND STAIRWAY OF FRANCIS I. AT BLOIS36

PORT DU CROUX—A MEDIEVAL WATCHTOWER AT NEVERS46

CASTLE AT FUSSEN66

OBERAMMERGAU70

ULM AND THE CATHEDRAL82

GOETHE’S HOUSE—FRANKFORT86

BINGEN ON THE RHINE88

CASTLE RHEINSTEIN90

EHRENFELS ON THE RHINE92

RUINS OF CASTLE RHEINFELS94

LUXEMBURG—GENERAL VIEW102

ST. WULFRAM’S CHURCH—GRANTHAM150

OLD PEEL TOWER AT DARNICK, NEAR ABBOTSFORD178

HOTEL, JOHN O’GROATS200

URQUHART CASTLE, LOCH NESS214

THE MACDONALD MONUMENT, GLENCOE220

“McCAIG’S FOLLY,” OBAN224

GLENLUCE ABBEY242

SWEETHEART ABBEY244

WORDSWORTH’S BIRTHPLACE—COCKERMOUTH250

CALDER ABBEY, CUMBERLAND252

KENDAL CASTLE258

KENDAL PARISH CHURCH260

DENBIGH CASTLE—THE ENTRANCE AND KEEP266

ST. HILARY’S CHURCH, DENBIGH272

GATE TOWERS RHUDDLAN CASTLE, NORTH WALES276

PLAS MAWR, CONWAY, HOME OF ROYAL CAMBRIAN ACADEMY284

INNER COURT, PLAS MAWR, CONWAY286

CONWAY CASTLE—THE OUTER WALL292

BERRY POMEROY CASTLE, ENTRANCE TOWERS312

BERRY POMEROY CASTLE—WALL OF INNER COURT316

A STREET IN EAST LOOE—CORNWALL322

POLPERRO, CORNWALL—LOOKING TOWARD THE SEA324

LANSALLOS CHURCH, POLPERRO326

A STREET IN FOWEY—CORNWALL330

PROBUS CHURCH TOWER, CORNWALL332

MAPS

FRANCE AND GERMANY380

SCOTLAND388

ENGLAND AND WALES388

Through Summer France

and

The Fatherland

SUNSET IN TOURAINE From original painting by Leon Richet

On Old-World Highways