Extract No. 5
Reading edition
As we passed Manlius, the canal runs on the North side of the high bank for near two miles, which opened to view many apparently inexhaustible quarries of plaster, which is said to be of superior quality. We also passed, soon after, Green Lake, a pretty sheet of water, which has been sounded for 400 feet without discovering bottom.
At six o'clock we arrived at what may be called one of the wonders of this part of the world—the extensive salt establishment, belonging to the state, situated immediately at the head of Onondaga Lake. Here are located the villages of Syracuse, Salina, and Geddesburg, all within a mile of each other; the first and last are on the canal, and Salina a little to the north, but fairly in view, connected by a short feeder. Syracuse is in a very prosperous condition. It was a very agreeable and novel sight to me to behold at this place upwards of 200 acres actually covered with vats filled with salt water in the act of evaporation. The process is very simple, and I shall not therefore attempt a description. The quantity of salt sent to market from this shop is immense. The salt water is obtained from two springs or wells, and is pumped by water power obtained from the canal, carried through horizontal logs in every direction for a half a mile to a mile and a-half, to supply the vats. As we passed the lake we had a fine view of it, which was very beautiful viewed from our elevation of 50 feet above it. Soon after leaving this place it became dusk, and I took to my couch.
10th—The Captain called me at peep of day, to say I was near my place of landing. I had scarcely time to equip myself before it was necessary to jump ashore, and I soon found myself on the road to Auburn, distant 9 miles—stage fare 25 cents only. The country is rather hilly and stony for easy culture, but tolerably improved. I arrived at Auburn just in time to take stage for Canandaigua, distant 40 miles—fare $1.50, which is an extensive town, but the canal route has drained it of considerable business. Here is located the state prison for the western section of New York—an establishment for the study of Theology, and a handsome building called the Western exchange, for the accommodation of travellers. Twelve of us left here on our stage, myself and another small man sitting outside, which in fine weather, is considered, by universal consent of all stage jokes, the best seat in the coach. Cayuga, nine miles, was our first stage; it is 3 miles above the outlet of the lake, and is a smart village. We here crossed the Lake by a bridge a mile and a quarter long, supported by piles, being one of the longest, but not the handsomest, bridge in the Union. On passing this famous bridge, over which some of us walked, we had a fine view of the South, as far as the eye could reach over this fine expanse of water, which was as clear as chrystal. Three miles further we arrived at Seneca, where is a smart town. Five miles beyond is Waterloo, a considerable place. Our route has been on the Seneca river, affording several fine scites for mills. Nine miles further brought us to the outlet of the Seneca Lake; the last two miles being on the beach at its termination, being in the form of a semi-circle, or half-moon; from which we had a most delightful view of the town of Geneva, which is situated on the Western side, on the declivity of a fine, commanding eminence. We arrived at Geneva, which is second in beauty to any yet seen. After dinner, as the stage did not immediately go, I went to different positions of the town, to look up the delightful Lake, and enjoy, I hope not for the last time, the charming view. Here is located another Theological Seminary, and other public institutions. We left at half past two, and arrived at half past five o'clock. It is situated at the outlet of the lake of the same name, and resembles Geneva, which having just left, bore the palm away from Canandaigua, which is, however, a handsome village, being the county town of Ontario. We stopped at a spacious hotel, from which there is a commanding view of the Lake. I never saw half so much good land in one day; in fact that which we have passed is all good. I did not pass in the whole distance of 50 miles, from Weeds' Basin, a solitary piece of woodland nearer the road than from one quarter to a half mile, and saw very few stumps. This is called the back-woods, out-of-the-world, society, and so on, and I am told it will continue thus to Buffalo, a succession of well-improved farms, with some of them having quite elegant buildings. It is a fact that wood has become scarce. At Canandaigua are two fine churches, two banks, (one too many at least,) two fine hotels, a court-house, jail, large steam-mill, &c. &c. It resembles Princeton, situated principally on one wide street, and is about as large.