ILLUSTRATIONS
Alice Werner translation
PAGE
CAPE GUARDAFUI 1
DAR ES SALAM HARBOUR 2
NATIVE DANCE AT DAR ES SALAM 3
STREET IN NATIVE QUARTER, DAR ES SALAM 4
MAP OF THE MAIN CARAVAN ROAD 9
COURTYARD AT DAR ES SALAM 10
IN THE EUROPEAN QUARTER, DAR ES SALAM 12
LINDI BAY 16
THE SS. “RUFIJI” 18
VIEW NEAR THE MOUTH OF THE LUKULEDI ABOVE LINDI 19
LINDI ROADSTEAD 24
ARAB DHOW 25
CHAIN-GANG 26
WOMEN’S DANCE AT DAR ES SALAM 27
SELIMAN MAMBA 29
YAO WOMEN AT MTUA 33
GIRLS FROM LINDI 35
RUINED TOWER, LINDI 38
UNDER THE PALMS 40
THE LIKWATA DANCE 45
MAKUA WOMEN FROM THE LUKULEDI VALLEY 47
A MAN OF THE MWERA TRIBE AND A YAO 48
RUINS OF NYANGAO MISSION STATION 50
A MWERA WOMAN 56
YOUNG MAN OF THE MWERA TRIBE 56
MWERA WOMAN WITH PIN IN LOWER LIP 57
ROAD THROUGH THE BUSH IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF CHINGULUNGULU 59
MOUNTAINS NEAR MASASI 65
THE INSULAR MOUNTAIN OF MASASI 67
OUR ASCENT OF MTANDI MOUNTAIN 72
MNYASA HUNTER WITH DOG 77
THROUGH THE BUSH ON A COLLECTING EXCURSION 79
READY FOR MARCHING (MASASI) 81
CAMP AT MASASI 83
INTERIOR OF A NATIVE HUT IN THE ROVUMA VALLEY 85
DOVECOTE AND GRANARY 92
RAT TRAP 96
TRAP FOR ANTELOPES 98
TRAP FOR GUINEA-FOWL 99
TRAP FOR LARGE GAME 99
MY CARAVAN ON THE MARCH 104
YAO HOMESTEAD AT CHINGULUNGULU 105
viiiTHE YAO CHIEF MATOLA 108
NAKAAM, A YAO CHIEF 109
INTERIOR OF A COMPOUND AT MWITI 110
CAMP AT MWITI 112
SHUTTER WITH INLAID SWASTIKA IN NAKAAM’S HOUSE AT MWITI 114
YAO HUT 115
ELDERLY MAKONDE WOMAN IN GALA DRESS 121
GROUND PLAN OF ZUZA’S HUT 128
ZUZA’S COUCH AND FIREPLACE 129
YAO WOMEN WITH NOSE-STUDS 130
INFANT’S GRAVE 132
MATOLA’S COMPOUND 134
BEER-DRINKING 136
WATAMBWE WOMAN DECORATED WITH NUMEROUS KELOIDS 141
MANUAL CHRONOLOGY, “THAT HAPPENED WHEN I WAS SO HIGH” 145
OUR CAMP AT CHINGULUNGULU 149
WATER-HOLES AT CHINGULUNGULU 151
MAKONDE WOMEN FROM MAHUTA 153
TWO MAKUA MOTHERS 157
A FRIENDLY CHAT 158
WOMAN POUNDING AT THE MORTAR 165
MONKEYS ATTACKING A PLANTATION 168
THE BLIND BARD SULILA OUTSIDE THE BOMA AT MASASI 171
YAO DANCE AT CHINGULUNGULU 178
“BUSH SCHOOL” IN THE PORI, NEAR CHINGULUNGULU 179
A YAO DRESSED FOR THE MASEWE DANCE 181
MASEWE DANCE OF THE YAOS AT MTUA 182
FRESCO ON THE WALL OF A HUT AT AKUNDONDE’S 185
HERD OF ELEPHANTS 190
VILLAGE OF THE NGONI CHIEF MAKACHU 193
GRAVE OF THE YAO CHIEF MALUCHIRO, AT MWITI 194
KINDLING FIRE BY FRICTION 196
MY COMPANION, NILS KNUDSEN 199
FISH-DRYING ON THE ROVUMA 202
TWO MATAMBWE MOTHERS FROM THE ROVUMA 205
TYPICAL HUT IN THE ROVUMA VALLEY 208
DESERTED BUILDINGS, LUISENFELDE MINE 210
UNYAGO BOYS PLAYING ON FLUTES OUTSIDE THE NDAGALA AT AKUNDONDE’S 211
LIKWIKWI, THE BIRD OF ILL OMEN 212
LISAKASA IN THE FOREST NEAR AKUNDONDE’S 213
YAO GRAVES AT AKUNDONDE’S 214
NDAGALA (CIRCUMCISION-LODGE) IN THE FOREST NEAR AKUNDONDE’S 216
LAUGHING BEAUTIES 220
GIRLS’ UNYAGO AT THE MAKONDE HAMLET OF NIUCHI 221
GIRL’S UNYAGO AT THE MATAMBWE VILLAGE OF MANGUPA. I 226
GIRLS’ UNYAGO AT THE MATAMBWE VILLAGE OF MANGUPA. II 227
OLD MEDULA LIGHTING HIS PIPE 228
OUR CAMP AT NEWALA 231
THE AUTHOR IN WINTER COSTUME AT NEWALA 232
MAKONDE MASKS 236
MAKONDE STILT-DANCER 237
THE NJOROWE DANCE AT NEWALA 238
ixMAKONDE WOMEN GOING TO DRAW WATER 243
TWO NEWALA SAVANTS 245
DANCE ON STILTS AT THE GIRLS’ UNYAGO, NIUCHI 249
FEET MUTILATED BY THE RAVAGES OF THE “JIGGER” 251
NATIVE PATH THROUGH THE MAKONDE BUSH, NEAR MAHUTA 256
USUAL METHOD OF CLOSING HUT-DOOR 261
MAKONDE LOCK AND KEY AT JUMBE CHAURO 262
MODE OF INSERTING THE KEY 263
THE ANCESTRESS OF THE MAKONDE 266
BRAZIER 267
NYASA WOMAN MAKING POTS AT MASAI 269
MAKUA WOMAN MAKING A POT 270
MANUFACTURE OF BARK-CLOTH AT NEWALA 275
MAKUA WOMEN 278
WOMAN CARRYING A BABY ON HER BACK 283
THREE MAKUA VEGETARIANS 284
USE OF THE THROWING STICK 286
THROWING WITH THE SLING 287
SPINNING A TOP 288
IKOMA DANCE AT THE GIRLS’ UNYAGO, ACHIKOMU 289
XYLOPHONE (MGOROMONDO) 290
PLAYING THE NATURA 291
NATURA (FRICTION-DRUM) 291
USING THE NATIVE TELEPHONE 292 and 293
NATIVE TELEPHONE 293
MAKONDE CHILDREN 295
MASEWE DANCE OF THE MAKUAS IN THE BOMA AT NEWALA 296
KAKALE PROCESSION ON THE LAST DAY OF THE UNYAGO 298
MASKED DANCE AT THE GIRLS’ UNYAGO, NIUCHI 303
WOMAN OF THE MAKONDE TRIBE 305
AN OFFERING TO THE SPIRITS 324
LANDSCAPE ON THE ROVUMA 325
TREES IN THE BURYING-GROUND AT NEWALA 327
KNOTTED STRING SERVING AS CALENDAR 329
MY ESCORT HALTED AT HENDERERA’S VILLAGE IN THE MAKONDE HIGHLANDS 334
NATIVE SUFFERING FROM THE UBUBA DISEASE 337
MAJALIWA, SAIDI, AND MAKACHU 338
FOREST RUINED BY NATIVES NEAR NCHICHIRA, ROVUMA VALLEY 343
MATAMBWE FISHERMAN CATCHING A TURTLE, WHICH A WATER-SNAKE IS TRYING TO SEIZE 347
PILE-DWELLING ON THE ROVUMA, NEAR NCHICHIRA 350
THE WALI OF MAHUTA 353
MOTHER AND CHILD 355
TWO-STORIED HOUSES AT NCHICHIRA ON THE ROVUMA 357
MAKONDE GIRL WITH LIP PIERCED FOR PELELE AND ULCERATED 358
PSEUDO-SURGERY. MAKONDE WOMAN WITH TORN LIP ARTIFICIALLY JOINED 359
MAKONDE KELOIDS 360
MATAMBWE AND MAKUA WOMEN WITH KELOIDS 361
MAKUA WOMAN WITH KELOIDS ON BACK 362
MAKUA WOMEN WITH KELOIDS 363
MAKONDE WOMEN WITH ELABORATE KELOIDS 364
xAFRICAN ART: CARVED POWDER, SNUFF, AND CHARM-BOXES FROM THE MAKONDE HIGHLANDS 365
MAKONDE MAN WITH KELOID PATTERNS 365
YAO WOMEN WITH KELOIDS 366
THE LITOTWE 367
“BWANA PUFESA” (THE PROFESSOR) 368
WANGONI WOMEN AT NCHICHIRA 369
TWO NATIVES 370
THE BUSH COUNTRY AND ITS FAUNA 372
MAKONDE WOMAN IN HOLIDAY ATTIRE 375
MAKONDE HAMLET NEAR MAHUTA 377
A DIABOLO PLAYER ON THE MAKONDE PLATEAU 378
DIABOLO 379
ASKARI IN FATIGUE DRESS 382
WANDUWANDU’S GRAVE 397
GREAT NGOMA DANCE IN THE BOMA AT MAHUTA 403
MY ESCORT CLEANING THEIR TEETH 405
ENTERING THE RED SEA 408
THE AUTHOR IN BUSH COSTUME 410
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