INDEX

Abdul Jalil, photographic assistant, 59, 319

Abruzzi, Duke of the, 2, 3, 5, 155

Acchu, cook, 103, 133, 178

Acclimatisation to high altitudes, 277, 308, 341

Alpine Club, 1, 7, 14–19, 305

Altitude, effects on human frame, 5, 102, 104–5, 137–8, 154–5, 199, 204, 206–7, 253–4, 276, 307–8, 315, 341; on breathing, 200, 243–4, 277; on tinned fish, 50

Ammo-chu, river, 39, 44, 291

Aneroids, 341

Ang Tenze, coolie, 113, 149–51, 166

Ari, bungalow, 33

Arun, river, 89, 104–5; gorges, 110, 125, 221, 297, 298; see Bhong-chu

Avalanches, 231, 267–9, 308–9

Bailey, Major, 31, 314

Bamtso, lake, 49

Bell, Sir Charles, 16, 24, 166

Bhompo's, Buddhist sect, 39

Bhong-chu, river, 64–5, 69–71, 89–90, 93, 99, 100, 110, 159, 161, 295; upper valley, 320, 322; see Arun

Bhotias, 24

Bhotia ponies, 27

Bhotia Kosi, river, 338

Birds, 290–303, 312, 344–6

Brahma Putra, river, 61; see Tsangpo

Bridges, 69, 93–4, 103, 115, 123, 159–60, 191

Bruce, General, 1, 3, 13, 17, 154, 312

Buchan, J., 19

Buddhism and Buddhists, 25, 67–8, 173; books, 41; red cap sect, 173; yellow cap sect, 58, 173; regard for animal life, 59, 80, 166, 290; see Monasteries, prayer-wheels

Bullock, G. H., 19, 26, 52; see Mallory

Bullocks, 48, etc; see Transport

Burrard, Sir S., 10–12

Carpo-ri, mountain, 227; ascended, 117, 229–35, 268

Chamlang, mountain, 140

Chandra Nursery, 32

Chang La (North Col), 142; first view of, 204, 207, 212, 220; way to, 233–40, 246–8, 256; camp on, 259–60; best route to, 273–4, 311–12, 334–5

Changtse, North peak of Everest, 142, 213, 215, 233–4

Chelmsford, Lord, 16

Chheten Wangdi, interpreter, 25, 39, 69, 91, 95, 112, 162, 179

Chinese in Tibet, 38–9, 71–2, 173; in Nepal, 173

Chitayn, coolie, 212

Chöbuk, monastery and bridge, 82, 95, 190, 191, 312, 327

Chödzong, village, 86

Chog La, 106, 121, 129, 299–300

Choksum, village, 324

Chomiomo, mountain, 52, 54, 140, 166

Chomolhari, mountain, 45, 48, 60, 64, 167, 263

Chomolönzo, mountain, 114, 116, 149–51

Chomolungma (Mount Everest or Makalu), 13, 24, 107, 224

Chomo-Uri (Mount Everest), 64

Chorabsang, mountain, 77–8; (=Cho Rapsang, 331)

Chortens, 40, 66, 174, 286, etc.

Cho Uyo, mountain, 73, 76, 78, 101, 207, 219, 330

Chöyling monastery, 194

Chulungphu, village, 89, 104

Chumbi valley, 25, 37–44, 170, 177–8; village, 38; fauna and flora, 291

Chushar Nango, village, 60–61, 131, 134, 295

Chuphar, village and monastery, 327

Chu-tronu, 123

Collie, J. N., 17–18

Compasses, 342

Conway, Sir M., 4, 5

Coolies, 23–5; behaviour, 47, 146, 156, 213, 216, 222–3, etc.; as carriers, 92–4, 113, 122, 158, 284–6; see Transport; in mountaineering, 84, 188, 195, 203–6, 212, 230, 251 ff., 332

Crampons, 207–8, 272

Cups of tea, as measures of distance, 108

Curios, 67, 157

Curzon, Lord, 1, 19

Dak, village, 93

Dalai Lama, the, 16, 173

Darjeeling, 23–28, 179

Dasno, coolie, 234

Desiccation, 51

Dochen, bungalow, 49, 168

Dokcho, village, 321

Donka monastery, 40–42

Donkeys, 48, 64, 65, etc.; See Transport

Dorje, cook, 50

Dorji Gompa, coolie, 202, 256

Doto nunnery, 51

Doya La, the, 88, 104, 336

Dram, village, 325

Drophung monastery, 323

Dug pass, 50

Dukpa, cook, 134, 188

Dunge pokri, island, 127

Dzakar (or Zakar) Chu, river, 93–5, 297, 333

Eaton, J. E. C., 17

Equipment, 20, 315, 341

Everest, Mount, 1–2, 183; position, 9, 13; height, 10–12; names, 13, 64, 225; seen from Khamba Dzong, 54, 56, 183–4; from Shiling, 64, 186–88, 217, 230, 263; from Rongbuk Valley, 192, 263–4; from Kama Valley, 116, 226; local ignorance of, 107, 112, 116; structure, 192–4, 203, 215, 310; best season for ascent, 153, 248, 270; difficulties of, 154, 276, 308; plans for, in 1921, 250–52

— — Committee, 16 ff.

— — Expedition, origin of, 14–16; value of, 5; objects, 17–18; cost, 19; equipment, 20, 315, 341; results, 179–80, 310–12, 338, 341. See Survey

Everest, Sir G., 13

Farrar, Captain J. P., 14, 17, 19, 315

Finch, Captain G., 19, 313, 315

“Finger,” the, station, 335–6

Fourteen lakes, valley of the, 106, 121; fauna and flora, 299

Fowkes, Sergeant, 28

Freshfield, D. W., 1, 14–16, 18

Fuel, 80, 105, 171, 211, 237, 247, 273, 331

Gadompa, village and bridge, 160–61

Galinka, village and monastery, 40

Gandenchöfel monastery, 108, 131

Gauri Sankar, mountain, 288, 326, 331

Gautsa, bungalow, 40

Gelupka (= Yellow Cap) sect, 173

Geshe Rimpoche, Lama, 40

Ghoom, 29

Glaciers, ancient extent of, 128; characteristics, 194, 197, 218; atmosphere, 200, 243, 270

Gnatong, village, 35–6, 178

Gosainthan, mountain, 64, 101, 284, 322–3

Graham, Dr., 30–31

Graphic, the, 19

Gujjar Singh, surveyor, the, 319, 323–7

Gurkhas in Tibet, the, 71, 95, 106

Guru Rimpoche, saint, 173

Gyachung Kang, mountain, 207, 219, 330

Gyalzen Kazi, interpreter, 25, 56, 133, 137, 163, 177–8, 188, 190, 202, 323

Gyangka-nangpa, house, 62, 184

Gyanka range of mountains, 184

Haldane, J. S., 341

Halung, village, 86–7, 103, 240; valley, 339

Hari Ram, explorer, 319, 324

Harvest rents, 161, 174

Hatarana, steamer, 24

Hayden, Sir H., 338

Harvest rents, 80, 83–4, 99

Heron, Dr. A. M., 20, 26; expeditions from Tingri, 74, 77–85, 98, 120, 325; first expedition to Kharta, 86–95, 162, 164, 179–80; in Upper Kharta Valley, 253; returns by Kama Valley, 146–153, 337, and Teesta Valley, 164, 37; note on geological results, 338–340

Himalaya, 7–8, 11, 304 ff.; H. and the Alps, 194

Hinks, A. R., 17, 20, 315; notes on scientific equipment, 341–2

Holdich, Sir T., 15

Hopaphema, landowner, 91–3, 104, 108, 111–12, 157–8

Hot springs. See Kambu, Tsamda

Howard-Bury, Colonel C. K., 13, 15, 17, 20, 243; author of the general narrative of the expedition, 23–180;; expeditions from Tingri, 75–85; first expedition to Kharta, 86–95; expeditions from Kharta, 106–111; visits Kama Valley, 112 ff.; ascent of 19,500 ft. ridge, 116; of Kama Changri, 136–7; of Lhakpa La, 140–145, 257 ff.

Huc, abbé, 293

India Office, 16

India, Government of, 16, 23

— Survey of, 20, 26–7, 341

Interpreters, 25, 47; discretion of, 108

Isaacs, Mr., 39

“Island,” the, 209, 213, 219

Jack, Colonel E. M., 17, 20, 315

Jannu, mountain, 117, 135, 140

Jelep La, 36, 37, 178, 290, 291 note

Jetsun-Nga-Wang-Chöfel, saint, 109, 325

Jongpens, 174–5, 283, 324

Jonsong, mountain, 47, 140

Kabru, mountain, 26, 47, 168

Kala-tso, lake, 51

Kalimpong, village, 29–30

Kama Valley, 112–119, 146–52, 225–7, 311, 339; fauna and flora, 300–01

Kama Changri, mountain, 114, 136–7

Kama-chu, river, 122–4

Kambu hot springs, 40–43; valley, 291

Kanchenjunga, mountain, 9, 46, 117, 135, 140, 185

Kanchenjhow, mountain, 52, 54, 104, 166

Kang-chu, river, 325

Kangchen and -chung passes, 326

Kangdoshung glacier, 115–16

Kangshung glacier, 149–51

Karpo La, 147

Karro Pumri, mountain, 326

Kartse, mountain, 141

Kellas, A. M., 14, 18, 26, 341; illness and death, 46–49, 52–54, 164, 321

Khamba Dzong,fort and village, 13, 24, 53–57, 96, 164

Kharkung, village, 161

Kharta, 24, 90; first visit to, 88–93; headquarters of the expedition, 104–5, 110; survey of, 323, 327; valley formation, 339; fauna and flora, 299, 301–03

Khartaphu, mountain, 330

Khe or Khetam, village, 50–51

Kheru, 51

Khombu pass, 76, 78–9, 312, 339

— valley, 150–51

Kimonanga, village, 124

Korabak, rock, 124

Kuti (= Nyenyam), village, 324

Kyetrak, village and valley, 74–77, 327, 331

— glacier, 70, 77–79, 312; river, 79

Kyishong, village, 65, 102

Lachen, 56, 337

Lalbir Singh Thapa, surveyor, 319, 322, 327

Lamna La, 81, 327

Langkor, village and temple, 281, 323

Langma La, 112–13, 130, 224

Langra, rest-house, 37, 178

Lapche, village and monastery, 287, 325–6

Lapche Kang, mountain, 115, 284–5, 325

Lashar, village, 161

Lebong, races at, 27

Leeches, 34–5, 123–4, 126, 300, 337

Lhakpa La (Windy Gap), 138, 161, 273–4; first visits to, 240–249, 255–6; camp on, 140–44, 257–8, 261

Lhasa, 16, 24, 173, 174; road to, 48–49

Lhonak peaks, 52

Lhotse, mountain (S. peak of Everest), 116, 213

Lingga, village, 57, 163–4

Lingmatang, plain, 40, 44, 291

Longstaff, Dr. T. G., 1, 5, 314

Lumeh, village, 93–4, 159

Lungchen La, 322

Lungdö, village, 110, 125

Lunghi, 167

Macdonald, David and family, 31, 38, 177

LMakalu, mountain, 104, 116, 118–19, 137, 186, 225–6 etc.; glacier, 151

Mallory, G. H. L., 19, 26, 313; reconnoitres N. approach to Everest, 74, 181–220; ascends Ri-Ring (23,050 ft.), 205–7, 264; moves to Kharta, 102–106; reconnoitres E. approach to Everest, 117, 221–249; back to Kharta, 130; ascends Kama Changri, 136–7; final assault and ascent of North Col, 131–145, 250–261; leaves Kharta, 153; views on weather conditions, 262–72; on the route up Everest, 273–79

Mammals, 290–303, 312, 344, etc.

Mani Walls, 40, 174, etc.

Maps of Tibet, 62

“Marigolds, Field of,” 119, 152

Matsang, village, 125

Meade, C. F., 5, 17, 19

Mendalongkyo, 129

Mende, village, 57

Menkhap-to and -me, villages, 322

Menlung pass, 327

“Metohkangmi,” 141

Mila Respa, saint, 287

Monasteries, 99, 113, 173. See Donka, Galinka, Ganden Chöfel, Rongbuk, Shekar Chöte, etc.

Monsoon, 31, 48, 88, 91, 139, 216, 248, 262 ff. See Rainfall

Morshead, Major H. T., 20, 25–27, 54, 65, 75, 96; trip to Nyenyam, 97, 108, 281–9, 323–5; at Kharta, 112; survey of Kharta Valley, 131–2, 135; first ascent of Lhakpa La, 130, 230–49; ascends Kama Changri, 136–7; second ascent of Lhakpa La, 140–144, 253–8; map by, 312, 338; account of survey by, 319–28

Mountain sickness, 207, 258, 323. See Altitude

Mountaineering, 2–4, 6–8, 305–6

Mules, lent by Government, 27–8; breakdown of, 33–4; Tibetan, 32–33, 48, etc. See Transport

Nangba (= Khombu), pass, 77, 331

Narsing, mountain, 26

Nathu La, 37

Nawang Lobsang, first Dalai Lama, 173

Nepal, 13

Nepalese coolies, 25, 122; invasion of Tibet, 71, 73; traders, 122, 127, 324; herdsmen, 126

Nezogu bridge, 100, 102

Ngawangyonten, official, 94

Nieves penitentes, 78

Nila pass, 61, 184

Noel, Major J. B. L., 14, 314

Nomads, 51, 171

North Col of Everest, 212, 215. See Chang La

North cwm of Everest, 200, 203–4

North peak. See Chang-tse

North-East Arête, 215, 227, 235, 250–51, 259, 274–6, 310

Norton, Major E. F., 313

Nuns and nunneries, 51, 80, 83, 166

Nyenyam, 73, 97, 108, 283–4, 297, 324

Nyima Tendu, coolie, 113, 149–51, 234

Oxygen for climbers, 154, 277, 307–8, 315–16, 341

Padamchen (= Sedongchen), 33

Padma Sambhava, saint, 337

Pashok, 173

Pawhunri mountains, 46, 52, 54, 166

Pedong, 31–2

Pekhu plain, 322

Peshoke, bungalow, 29

Pethang Ringmo, 116, 138

Pethangtse, mountain, 117, 147

Phari, fort and village, 24, 35, 45–8, 168; plain, 46, 292

Pharuk, district, 323, 327

Phema, village, 38

Philadelphia Ledger, the, 19

Photography, 68, 72–3, 156, 216–17, 314, 315, 38, 342–3, etc.; perils of, 74–5; surveying by, 320, 329–30

Phuri, village, 322

Phuse La. See Pusi pass

Pilgrims, 70, 99, 121

Plants, 290–302, 312, 346–50, etc.

Pö-chu, river, 284–5, 297–8, 323–4

Ponglet, view from, 188, 218, 263

Pilgrims, 27, 34, 48, 87, 101, etc; See Transport

Poo, coolie, 75, 113, 156, 178

Popti La, 106, 126–7, 300

Postal arrangements, 96–7, 131, 135

Prayer wheels, 39–40, 53, 91, 98, 110, 174, 289

Primus stoves, 142–3, 154, 208, 331, 121

Pulahari, village, 281

Pulme, 94

Pumori, mountain, 209

Punagang monastery, 39

Pusi pass, 77, 79, 289 (= Phuse La, 327, 330)

Quiok, pass, 159

Rabkar-chu, river and glacier, 115

Ra-chu, river, 70, 330

Rainfall, 29, 37, 56, 99, 105, 262 ff.

Rawling, Major, 13–14

Reading, Lord, 23

Rebu, village, 87, 103; valley, 339

Rhenock, 32

Ri-Ring, mountain, ascended, 205–6, 270, 311

Richengong, village, 38, 291

Ronaldshay, Lord, 32, 179

Rongbuk, glacier, 84; central and W. branches explored, 194–220; E. branch, 179, 142, 216–18, 247–9, 273–4, 334–6; stream from, 199, 218

— monastery, 83

— valley, 82, 191, 339

Rongkong, village, 63

Rongli, bungalow, 32, 178

Rongme, village, 63

Rongshar, valley, 77, 288–9, 298, 325–6

Ruddamlamtso, lake, 121, 128

Rugby, Tibetan boys at, 172

Ryder, Colonel C. H. D., 13, 319

Sakeding, village, 121–22, 127–8

Samchung, pass, 106, 121, 129

Sand dunes, 58, 63–4, 295

Sandakphu, 12, 13

Sanglu, coolie, 254, 256–7

Sedongchen, village, 33–4

Senchal, 29

Serpo-La, 164, 337

Shao La, 112, 118, 153

Sharto, village, 75, 330

Shassi (= New Yatung), 38

Shatog, village, 162

Shekar-Chöte, monastery, 67–8, 94

Shekar Dzong, fort and village, 45, 66–7, 96, 295

Sherpa Bhotias, coolies, 24, 188, 224, 252

Shidag, nunnery, 51

Shigatse, 51, 55, 174

Shiling, 51, 161, 188. See Everest, Mount

Shung-chu, river, 79

Shurim Tso, lake, 114

Sikkim, survey of, 27, 320–21, 327; journey through, 29–36; flora of, ibid.

Siniolchum, mountain, 46

Sipri mountains, 99

Skis, 158

Snow, 248, 254, 264–8; temperature of, 270; powdery, 171, 231, 243, 256; powdery snow and wind, 139, 142, 144, 159, 167–8, 259–60, 271, etc.

Snow-blindness, 103, 167, 171

Snowfall, 37, 171

Snow line, 56

Snow men, the abominable, 141

Shigatse, 137, 211–14, 232, 243, 254, 265, 270

Somers Cocks, E. L., 16

Somervell, H. T., 312, 313

Strutt, Colonel E. L., 313

Sun's rays, 270, 308

Survey work of expedition, 179, 312. See Heron, Morshead, Wheeler

Sutso plain, 99, 321–22

Takda, cantonment, 29

Tamba Sanye, saint, 281, 323

Tameness of animals, 59–60, 76–77, 80, 83, 88, 94, 131

Tang La, 48, 167, 323

Tang-pün-sum, plain, 48

Tangsham, 114, 117, 152

Targyeling, village, plain, 324

Tasang, village, 79, 289, 327

Tashi Dzom, 95

Tashilumpo monastery, 51, 173

Tashishong, 325

Tatsang, nunnery, 52, 165–6

Teesta Valley, 27, 29–30, 164, 337

Temperature, 79, 308, 342

Tents, airlessness of, 143, 154, 258

Thermometers, 342

Thrashing, 164

Thung-La, 282; fauna and flora, 297

Tibet, 13, 36, 170 ff.; geology of, 338; Government, 173–4;; helps the expedition, 16, 24, 45, etc.

Tibetans, 170 ff.

Tibetan beer, 57, 125, 156; bread, 125; burial, 74, 133; climate, 49, 176; coinage and currency, 47, 59, 123; coolies, 223–4; houses, 38, 89; bread, 321; marriage, 74; meals, 48, 59, 62, 67, 101, 108, etc.; mules, 177–9; ornaments, 73, 101, 107; ponies, 72, 55, 101, 176; superstitions, 66, 72, 109, 122, 141, 174, 282; tea, 41, etc.

Times, newspaper, 19, 156

Tingri, newspaper, 70–75, 95–101; plain of, 70; its fauna and flora, 96, 295–7; origin of name, 282, 323

Tinki, fort and village, 58, 162; birds of, 294; pass, 60, 162, 321; flowers of, 295

Trangso Chumbab, rest-house, 65

Transport, 27–8, 34–5, 45, 48, 60, 65, 69, 86, 92, 158–9, 165, 173, 284. See Coolies, Mules,Yaks

Trintang, village, 326

Tropde, village, 326

Tsakor, village, 70

Tsamda, 99, 321

Tsampa, 172–3, 222, 337

Tsang, province, 70

Tsangpo, river, 319–20

Tsering, five peaks, 326

Tsogo, 65, 159

Tsomotretung, lake, 61

Tsong Kapa, monk, 173

Tulsi Dass, gardener, 32

Tulung, village, 323

Tuna, rest-house, 48

Turubaz Khan, surveyor, 319, 321

Wakefield, Dr. A. W., 313

Waugh, Sir A., 10, 12, 13

Weather. See Monsoon, Rainfall,Wind

West cwm of Everest, 208–9, 212, 214

Wheeler, Major, E. O., 20, 26, 52, 164, 252, 320; expedition to Kyetrak, 74, 77–81, 98, 330–33; to Rongbuk Valley, 102, 333–36; discovers E. Rongbuk glacier, 217, 240, 247–8, 334; arrives at Kharta, 249; to Lhakpa La, 140–44, 257; to Chang La, 144–5, 258–61; returns by Kama Valley, 146–153, 337, and Teesta Valley, 164, 337; map by, 312, 328, 338; account of photographic survey by, 329–337

Wind, 50, 72, 75, 147–8, 171, 178, 265, 308, 342. See Snow

Wollaston, A. F. R., 20, 26; returns with Raeburn to Sikkim, 56; rejoins at Tingri, 74, 75, 96; trip to Nyenyam, 97, 108, 323–25; described by him, 281–89; at Kharta, 249; to Lhakpa La, 140 ff., 257–8; returns by Kama Valley, 146–153, 165, 342; natural history notes by, 290–303, 344–350; collections, 312

Yaks, 61, 81, 161, 171, 286, 294, etc.

Yaru, river, 56–7, 61–3, 101–2

Yatung, 38–9, 177

Younghusband, Sir F., 1, 15–17, 19, 20

Zachar-chu. See Dzakar-chu

Zambu, village, 81

Printed in Great Britain by Butler & Tanner, Frome and London

MAP I. PRELIMINARY MAP to illustrate the route of the MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION 1921. Reduced from the map on the scale 1/253440 by Major Morshead and assistants of the Survey of India, accompanying the expedition: the neighbourhood of the Mountain from Map II. Scale 1/750,000 or 1 Inch = 11·84 Stat. Miles.

MAP II. Preliminary Map of MOUNT EVEREST constructed at the R. G. S. from photographs and sketches made by the EXPEDITION of 1921 Scale 1/100,000 or 1 Inch = 1·58 Stat. Miles.

MAP III. THE GEOLOGY of the MOUNT EVEREST REGION from the surveys of Dr. A. M. HERON Geological Survey of India 1921. The topography from Map I. Scale 1/750,000 or 1 Inch = 11·84 Stat. Miles.