Frock.

This will fit a child of ten months old.

You require 6 skeins of the palest blue Berlin fingering. Be careful to use the pins as directed, for the goring of the skirt is managed without decreasings.

Cast on with pins No. 3, 264 stitches.

Knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row.

6th row. Knit 1, bring the wool forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 together, knit 3, wool forward, knit 1.

7th row. Pearl.

8th row. This and every alternate row is like the 5th.

9th row. Pearl.

11th row. Pearl.

13th row. Knit; also knit the 15th and 17th rows; then go back to the 5th row.

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When 34 rows are done, use pins No. 5. At the 61st row use pins No. 8.

77th row. Like 5th, but omit bringing the wool forward.

78th row. Use steel pins No. 12; you ought to have now 220 stitches. Decrease about every 9th stitch by pearling 2 together, so as to reduce your number of stitches to 192.

74th row *. Bring the wool forward, slip 1, inserting the pin as though you were going to pearl it, knit 2 together; repeat from *. Do 48 rows in this manner. Note that each chain is 2 rows.

123rd row. Knit 54, that is, 18 sets of 3. Leave the other stitches. With a third steel pin, No. 12, knit back on these 54 still with the brioche stitch.

2nd row. Knit 51 (or 17 sets), knit the 3 last together, omitting to bring the wool forward.

3rd row. Slip 1 in the usual way, brioche the rest. You must always decrease at the 12 end in every alternate row for the slope. Of course these decreasings come at the end nearest the middle.

When you have decreased to 42, do 9 rows without decreasings. The body ought at this side to be 68 rows deep; you are at the beginning of a row; leave these stitches now, do not break off the wool.

Take another ball, join the end with a wool needle, work upon the centre 84 stitches; slip the last 54 upon a piece of wool.

Decrease at each end of the 84 until you have only 69, then work without decreasing until this part is the same length as the other. Leave these stitches and break off the wool; take care that the wool is at the right-hand end.

Do the last side to match the first, and then leave the body until the sleeves are ready.

Sleeve.—Cast on 56 with the steel pins No. 12, knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row.

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4th row. Knit 1, wool forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 2 together, knit 1, wool forward, knit 1.

4th row. Pearl. Repeat alternately, but the 11th, 13th, and 15th rows are knitted.

18th row. Use pins No. 8.

20th row. Slip the 1st, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Continue as usual, but decrease at the end by omitting to put the wool forward.

21st row. Pearl 2 together at the beginning and end of every row. In the 22nd row, knit 3 together to make the pattern even.

32nd row. Cast off 4 stitches, knit 25, cast off the last 4; break off the wool and fasten it in with a wool needle.

Now go on with the body. Begin from the right side where you had left your ball of wool. Still use pins No. 12. Plain knitting, taking the stitch and the wool before it as 1; consequently you have 36 14 plain stitches on this pin now. Knit off the 27 sleeve stitches from the No. 8 pin. The remainder is all plain knitting. Knit the centre stitches, knit off the 27 of your second sleeve, knit the last 54. You ought to have 154 stitches altogether. Do 2 plain rows.

3rd row. Knit 3, knit 2 together alternately.

4th row. Put the wool round the needle every third stitch (above the decreasing in previous row). This makes holes for running in a ribbon as a fastening. Do 2 more plain rows. Leave this part; do not break off the wool.

Edging for Neck.—Cast on 184 with pins No. 12, and work like sleeve for 7 rows. Lay this pin beside the neck, and cast off through both at once, so as to join the two; but remember that the edging has 30 more stitches than the neck, so you must occasionally take 2 of the border stitches together. 15 It is easier to do this with a bone crochet-hook than with a knitting-pin.

Make button-hole by pulling aside the stitches and working over. The buttons ought to be small, flat moulds, covered with crochet.

It is a good plan to match the sash for the frock with the wool first, as it is not possible to get in all shades a good match for silk and wool.

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