MOLDS

The various models of machines placed on the market today have a flexibility that requires a variety of molds to take care of the varying lengths and thicknesses of slugs. The molds are adjustable and are all removable from the mold disk should the occasion require. The molds are all constructed along the same general line, with a base and movable cap. The caps in all molds are held in place by two guides, pinned on each end of the base of the mold, and projecting into grooves in the cap.

The base of the mold is screwed firmly to the disk, and the two liners are held in place by the cap and the pressure from three screws which project through the rim of the mold disk. The cap and base being held parallel by the guides.

To change the mold from one size of body or length of slug it is only necessary to loosen the three screws, remove the liners and insert the ones desired. Do not pry the cap upward with a screwdriver inserted in the casting range of the mold cell. When tightening the screws in the rim of the disk, bring them just to a firm bearing. There is danger of cracking the rim if the screws are too tight.

The Universal Adjustable

The universal adjustable mold is the one most generally used. By removing the liners and substituting others, slugs of any length from 5 to 30 picas and from 5 to 14 points in body may be cast. All standard molds will cast 30-pica slugs.

The right-hand, or constant liner, is marked for thickness only. It is not necessary to change this liner unless the slug thickness is changed.

The left-hand liner is marked for thickness and length. The number stamped for the length, subtracted from 30, gives the length of slug which will be cast. For example, if a 13-em slug is wanted, use liner number 17, which allows the opening in the mold to be the required length. When ordering liners for these molds, always specify thickness and length of slug to be cast; also specify U. A. mold.

The Recessed

In order to cast light-weight slugs and for quick cooling, the recessed mold is made. This mold will cast slugs with cavities, or recesses. The base of this mold is the same as the universal adjustable. The lower surface of the cap has rectangular projections and grooves. The molten metal is forced into these grooves and forms the supporting ribs beneath the type face. The rectangles form the recesses. The weight of the slug is reduced about one-third. A more solid slug is formed because there is less air to be displaced from the mold. There is less metal in the mold cell, therefore it cools more rapidly than the regular universal adjustable. These molds require special left-hand liners and are adjustable for body size from 10- to 14-point and all measures from 8 to 30 picas, except the half-em measures. For these restricted measures a special mold is required and will only be made on special order. In ordering liners for a recessed mold you must be careful to specify “recessed mold” and the length in ems required. These molds can be applied to any model of machine, but must never be used for any size below 10-point.

Display and Headletter

The special display and headletter mold is similar to a recessed mold, but to accommodate the increased size of faces, the recesses are deeper. This mold has practically the same restrictions as to length of slug as the recessed mold. One-letter matrices with the character for raised position must be used on this mold. The filling piece under the first elevator jaws must be used when using the mold. Matrices can not be sent in on the duplex rails of the assembling elevator.

Each display mold has a body range of 5 points only, so the entire range of bodies from 15 to 36 points would require four of these molds as follows: The range of one is 15 to 19 points, that is, any width of liner from 15 to 19 points can be used on this mold; the range of the second would be 20 to 24 points, the third would be 26 to 30 points, the fourth, 32 to 36 points. The range of the molds are always marked on the cap so no mistake can be made.

In ordering liners for the display and headletter molds, care must be taken to specify the range marked on the cap.

These molds are limited as to length of measure the same as the recessed molds.

Advertising

The advertising figure mold differs from the universal adjustable only in the mold cap. The cap is constructed with an extra thick lip against which the overhang in the matrices are cast. This permits of casting large characters, which will lap over one or more adjacent slugs. The grooves in the cap are ground parallel. With this mold slugs from 5- to 12-point can be cast, but not above 12-point at any time. This mold can also be used for casting headletter type, by letting the letter overhang the slug. Place a blank slug underneath the overhanging letters to support them.

When using the advertising figure equipment, display figures or characters can be cast at any desired point in the line of text matter, the characters or figures casting on the first slug against the lip of the mold, thus overhanging one or more other slugs when assembled.

In determining how large a figure may be cast on any size of slug from 5- to 12-point, bear in mind that not over eleven points of the figure may be cast against the lip of the mold cap.

Carbolite

There is an adjustable mold used on some machines which is made of carbolite steel. This mold is harder than the regular U. A. mold and will not warp easily. However, it heats up quicker, retains the heat longer and will not work very satisfactorily for large slugs or where a large amount of metal is used. The regular U. A. liners are used on this mold.

36-em Adjustable

The universal adjustable molds for 36-em machines will cast any measure from 30- to 36-ems inclusive, from 5- to 14-point body. If a measure shorter than 30 ems is desired a regular 30-em mold must be used.

In order to change liners on a 36-em mold it is necessary to take the mold from the mold disk, as the liners fit around three sides of the post, and can not be changed in the regular way.

It is possible to remove the 36-em mold from the disk and substitute a 30-em mold. A filling piece is required to take up the difference between the 30-em and the 36-em mold.

Mold Wipers

There are two felt wipers which are designed to keep the face and back of the mold clean. A small amount of a mixture of cup grease and graphite rubbed into the back wiper will keep the base of the mold clean. For the front mold wiper, keep the felt well saturated with graphite. Do not use oil or grease on the front wiper, or it will be transferred onto the matrices and into the magazine. A good plan is to soak the felt with gasoline and rub the graphite in. When the felt becomes worn, new ones should be applied. When applying new felt, put graphite between the layers. Be careful that the felt does not become worn to the extent that the steel part of the wipers will be allowed to rub against the mold.

Mold Hints

If the mold cap guides become bent they will throw the mold cap out of alignment with the constant side of the mold. The guides can be straightened by removing the mold from the disk. Place a straight-edge across the mold and cap to determine how the guides are bent. They may be tapped with a hammer and a piece of brass rule to spring them back in position. Care should be used in this operation and if bent very much, the mold should be shipped to the nearest agency for repairs. A mold with bent guides or a warped cap will cause back squirts and to remedy these, the mold must be repaired. Mold cap guides can be renewed by driving out the small pin that holds them in place in the base of the mold and fitting in new ones.

If a mold has become warped by overheating, it can be shipped to the nearest agency to be ground. If the mold is ground on the back, the slug will be less than type high, according to the amount taken off in the grinding. The liners must be ground as well as the mold. Always be very careful of the mold so this will not be necessary.

The bottom of the mold sometimes becomes tinned. This will not permit the mold and mouthpiece to lock up properly. The trouble can be remedied by removing the mold from the disk and placing it on the bench. Put a small amount of metal polish on a block of hard wood. Rub the wood back and forth the entire length of the bottom of the mold, with an even pressure. As the metal polish contains an abrasive, the mold, cap, and liners should be kept together, so that the casting edge of the mold will not be rounded. Be careful of the molds as they are one of the most important parts of the machine and will run indefinitely if handled intelligently.

Take the mold apart and clean the base and the cap with the polish. Place each part in a vise so it will be held solid while cleaning. After using the polish, clean with gasoline.

When metal gets into a mold cap screw in the disk after a squirt, do not hammer the metal with a screwdriver. To do so merely drives the metal tighter in the threads of the hole. Gouge the metal out with a knife a little at a time.

Do not remove the mold keeper from the mold. The mold keeper is for the purpose of holding the lugs of the matrices in alignment. If it is removed and not replaced properly, it will interfere with the proper alignment of every line set.

Keep the face of the mold clean and free from metal which has a tendency to accumulate during the day while the mold is being used. A clean face of the mold will greatly facilitate the press make-ready. Metal on the mold causes high and low letters on the slug.