Book 3 — CHAPTER XIII. His Tour On The Continent In 1844. (continued 2)

Monday, Sept. 8. Nativity of Blessed Virgin.—I said mass at S. Marco. We went to the high Armenian mass at S. Lazzaro at 10. We were a little late. After it we stayed there with our friends the fathers till vespers and benediction, at 3. And after that, dinner at 4. Mrs. Neville and family were there too. It was an interesting day for seeing and conversing. I saw, in the visitors' book, my name under Lefevre's, written by him July, 1820. We sat in the cloister, with the old Archbishop, &c., till twilight. He made us presents of many handsome books printed there. We came back to S. Marco, and sat to hear the band, &c. On coming home, at 7½, we were in great demand with cards and notes, left by the Duc de Levis, to invite us to the Duc de Bordeaux's (Comte de Chombard) salon at 7. We were all thrown back by Phillipps having no dresses to go in. So we had to keep easy at home.

Sunday, Sept. 9.—Mass at the cathedral (S. Marco). P. Raffaele and the Greek priest came to breakfast. At 10 I had a visit from the Superioress of the Institute of Sta. Dorothea and a companion. At 10½ we went to visit the Duc de Bordeaux, who gave us a quarter of an hour's most affable conversation, spoke with great kindness of his reception in England, and asked after Dr. Wiseman, &c. His confessor, the Abbé Trélouquet, was introduced to us, and came in our gondola to Mrs. Neville, of whom we took leave. Mr. Trélouquet promised to engage the French royal family in prayers for England. He said, the Duc de Bordeaux had spoken of my asking him at Oscott. We went then to S. Tommaso, where I left the Phillippses and went to the banker, Holme, who is Armenian consul. Then back to S. Tommaso, where I found them looking at an extraordinary collection of relics made by a priest, who devoted himself to the work when all things were in confusion in the revolution. He gave the collection to the church, on condition of their being open to the public for veneration. The chief relic is some of the blood of Our Lord, in a beautiful gold or gilt reliquary. I found there Monsignor Arfi, the Pope's Caudatario, and invited for England. I then went to Padre Raffaele, at the college, and went with him to see the two brothers, priests Cavanis, founders of an excellent institute of Scuole di Carità. They are in a poor house, with a few companions; one of them complained that no one helped them; but they are like their patron S. Joseph Calasanctius, losing ground in old age, but with hope of better things. P. Raffaele, who has indeed been an angel to me in Venice, came with me to the inn where they were at dinner. At 4 we left Venice, with pleasant remembrances. We crossed the lagune in a procession of boats, and got into the railway carriage, which took us to Padua about 7. At the Stella d'Oro I went out to try to find the Bishop; but he was not in town.

Tuesday, Sept, 10.—I went to St. Antony's church at 7½ to say mass. Before going I met Dr. Roskell, of Manchester, just come with a Manchester party on a rapid tour. I could not have the altar of St. Antony, which seems always occupied. I spoke to the Superior of the house of Conventual Franciscans attached to the church, 50 in number, who promised to recommend my cause. I came back in a little carriage with Phillipps. We started at 9 for Verona, dined at Vicenza; then I took a carriage and called on the Bishop, Monsignor Capellari, a good old man, who received me graciously. We stopped in going out of Vicenza to see Palladio's Olympic Theatre, built to act the OEdipus Tyrannus in 1585. This pretends to nothing but paganism. We reached Verona at 7. I went out to see the Bishop, who was quite gracious; he begins his retreat with his clergy to-morrow, and promised to begin then and recommend England. I then called at Conte Persico's, who is in town, but was just gone to the theatre. Home, and to bed at 9½.

Wednesday, Sept. 11.—Up soon after 5, and at 7 said mass in St. Anastasius, a large church close to the hotel. Soon after Conte Persico came to return my visit, and sat a good while with me, then with the Phillippses, to whom I introduced him. He is grown very old, being now 67. He said he was married two years after I had seen him before, and was now by accident in town with his wife. I thought him very like his old father. At 10 we went in a carriage to see the tombs of the Scaligeri, formerly tyrants of Verona, fine Gothic structure; then the Amphitheatre, and the church of St. Zenone, where I saw the image of the saint again which I before laughed at, as a thing so to be treated, in 1820. I then called at Conte Persico's, and saw his lady. At 12½ we set off for Dezenzano, a beautiful spot at the town end of the Lake di Garda. We arrived at 6, and had a pleasant evening in a little room of the Albergo Imperiale, looking over the lake. I wrote to Mrs. Neville and Abbé de Baudry.

Thursday, Sept. 12.—There was rain in the night, leaving us a fine day without dust. I said mass at 6½ in the parish church. We went to dine at the Duc Torri, at Brescia. I went to see the Bishop, who received me very courteously. There I met a Philippine lay-brother, who introduced me to the church of his order, Sta. Maria della Pace, then to five or six of the fathers sitting together. I had a fine opportunity of recommending England. They are the only religious house in Brescia (of men at least). After dinner at 3 we set off for Bergamo, when we came to Albergo Reale at 9 o'clock. I got up to my knees in a stream near the road at the wet stage, but hope no harm from it.

Friday, Sept. 13.—Anniversary of my first coming abroad, 1819. I got up soon after 5, said mass in a church opposite the inn, breakfasted at a café, then walked up the beautiful road to the high town called the Città, where our inn was is the borga. Between them there are about 36,000. In the Città I met a priest, by name Giuseppe Caffi, belonging to the collegiate church, who, when I asked him for Count Papi, volunteered to be my guide altogether. He showed me the cathedral, his own church, Sta. Maria, and a little convent church, Church of the Benedictine Nuns, beautifully gilt. He also went with me to the Bishop, who gave me one of the best receptions. By the same good hap as at Verona, the priests were in retreat. He introduced me to the Abbate Vittadini, conductor of the retreat, who promised to speak of England to the clergy. He was already full of zeal for it; he knew a good deal of the state of things with us. When I wrote my name, he knew it well, and it had a good effect. I went with Abbé Caffi to the palace of Count Papi; all were away. He came with us to the hotel, and soon we started for Milan. We arrived at 3, and found rooms in the best hotel (de la Ville). Tables d'hôte at 5. I said office, and just got time to look in the cathedral before dinner, and again after we all went. It was beyond my recollections of old. I admired the ceiling, which seemed all beautiful openwork; I did not remember this. It seemed to be only painted so. How I remember Lord Kinnaird taking my mother to it. We tried two other churches to find Benediction in vain. Then I went with Phillipps to a bookseller's.

Saturday, Sept. 14.—Up at 5½. I went to say mass at the cathedral, and finding that the Roman rite is not allowed in the church alone, I was in the happy necessity of celebrating in the chapel of St. Charles, in the crypt, which is almost reserved for strangers. I waited over two masses. After breakfast we had a visit from Count Mellerio, Rosinini's great friend. Phillipps and I went with him to his palace, and saw Abbate Polidori, who lives there. Mrs. Ambrose came with the carriage to pick us up, and I went to the Church of St. Celso, and to the great hospital fitted up for 3,000 patients; then to vespers at the Duomo, and at 3½ to dine with Count Mellerio. I sat near Polidori. Before we parted he and Signer Mercati seemed gained for England. At 6½ we went to a Benediction at the Duomo, only of relics of the Passion, and not very solemn. This was by occasion of the Feast of the Exaltation of the Cross to-day. I then went to the Archbishop's palace to find the Grand Vicar, to get leave for confessions to-morrow, and without expecting it saw the Cardinal himself instead. As Count Mellerio was to prepare my way to-morrow, I did not speak of England. When I got home I found Mellerio at the inn, bringing a permission from the Grand Vicar. To bed after 10. I have got unwell to-day in the inside,—between yesterday's maigre and the fruit, I suppose.

Sunday, Sept. 15.—We went together this morning to the old basilica of St. Ambrose, where I said mass at the saint's tomb, in the crypt. The Phillippses received communion. Then we saw the splendid covering of the altar above, in the church. It is exposed only on three days at mass—St. Ambrose, SS. Gervase and Protase, and Corpus Christi. SS. Gervase and Protase's relics are there, with St. Ambrose's. This altar cost to a bishop who gave it, 80,000 sequins of gold, about the year 1000. I spoke to the Directeur du Séminaire de Chamberry, who was there, and he promised to speak of England. We went home to breakfast at 10½. Assisted at high mass in the Duomo again; not so solemn as yesterday. The procession of the Blessed Sacrament before it did not please me much. After high mass I went to call on the Cardinal again. I was not so much disappointed as in the case of the Bishop of Brixen, for I had heard nothing promising about this interview as in the other cases; but I felt as one defeated when I went away. I went to the Piazza del Castello to see the Contessa del Verme and her sister, English people, converts to whom Abbate Vittadini, at Bergamo, recommended me. Her sister, Miss Mary Webster, is just about entering the order of the Visitation here. The Count came in just when I was gone out, and followed me to S. Alessandro, of the Barnabites, which he had heard me ask for as I left his house. I brought him to see Phillipps. We dined at 3½, and at 4½ went to the Arena, or Amphitheatre, where there was a grand spettacolo nautico e pirotecnico. The arena was full of water, and we had five races of boats, three of men, one of women, and one of boys rowing; then a procession of two great illuminated galleys filled with musicians; then what struck me most, as most new to me, the ascent of fifty fine balloons; then of one very large one; then a splendid display of fireworks, ending as often with an illuminated palace, with an inscription alle scienze, alle letters, alle arti, as the spectacle was in honour of the Sixth Italian Scientific Congress, now being held here. We got home at ¼ to 9; I almost well again.

Monday, September 16.—I said mass at St. Fidele, formerly one of the three Jesuit churches. At 8 we set off in a carriage to see the Certosa of Pavia. We got to it at 10½, and were two hours examining its beautiful details. Women are now forbidden entrance into the choir, and so Mrs. Ambrose had to stay in the body of the church, while we, with other people who had come to see it, saw the rich high altar and many of the finest things. There are not many precious stones, like rubies, emeralds, &c., but a profusion of altar-fronts of Pietra-dura, beautiful alto relievos in marble, and many fine pictures. The convent is but lately reinhabited. Count Mellerio was the means of replacing monks there. They are all French. We saw the Prior, who knew Michael MacMahon. He promised to recommend England not only here, but by letter in other houses. We dined at an inn half a mile from the church, called Albergo della Certosa, and came back to Milan by 5. I got off near the Contrada S. Maria Falconeria, to call at a convent of Sisters of Charity of the same order as those of Sta. Lucia, at Venice. I saw the Superioress. Then I went to the Count del Verme's palace. La Contessa was confined this morning. I saw Miss Webster, who spoke about two English girls whom they are instructing, wishing me to receive the confession of one who cannot speak Italian. I went out with the priest who instructs them, Don Gaetano Fumagalli, to see them. We first went to the convent of the Salesiani, 54 nuns (visitation), into which Miss Webster is about to enter, and though the time was past, we saw the mistress of novices through the grate, who was very gracious about England. Then we went to a high story in a house where these girls lodge, paid for by the Cardinal. After coming home I went, on an invitation obtained by the Conte del Verme, to a grand assembly and concert at the Accademia, or the Nobil Società. The gayest rooms I have seen a long time. I came home soon after ten, for I knew nobody there, and was almost the only priest I saw; certainly the only one in a cassock.

Tuesday, September 17.—Mass at St. Fidele. At 8 Count Mellerio came, and we started for his villa at Gernetto, beyond Monza. He took Mrs. A. and Amb., and I and a boy went in our carriage, with four vetturino horses. We stopped at Monza to see the glorious relic of the Iron Crown given by the Empress Helena to Constantine, in which is inserted, as a ring of iron within a larger ring of gold, one of the nails of Our Lord's crucifixion beat out into that form. It has crowned from thirty to forty kings of Italy. Among them, Napoleon last but one. Other grand relics of the Passion are with it, two thorns, and a piece of the sponge. Other relics are in the sacristy. This is kept over an altar within rich doors. The Canonico, who was with us in the church, promised to recommend England. We went on to the palace of the Archduke, surrounded by a park fifteen miles round, dressed like an English park, a noble palace. Then on to Gernetto, where we were for two or three hours before dinner walking gaily with the Count round his beautiful grounds. The villa is very handsome. Two priests of the neighbourhood dined with us at 3. One told me that Count Mellerio is one of the richest, or rather the richest nobleman in Milan,—about £15,000 a year of our money. He is alone, having lost his wife and four children. He came back with us to our hotel, where I found Count del Verme to tell me that the confession of the girls was put off. They have been left here by their mother. Their parents, —— and Ann Carraway, live at Newcastle-under-Lyne. Their grandfather and mother, James and Mary Freakley, at Cheapside, Handley. I went with the Count to the assembly of the learned men who are now met in Milan,—not so smart as yesterday, but very numerous. Then to a café, to read news about the effects of O'Connell's liberation.

Wednesday, September 18.—I went with Phillippses to the Duomo to say mass for them at St. Charles's tomb, but I found it occupied, and so I went to San Fidele again, came back to breakfast, and saw Conte Mellerio, who had called. Then went with them to the Brera, where I went quickly through the gallery, and left them, taking the carriage to go to the hospital of the Fate-bene Fratelli, which is a fine establishment for 100 sick. The Vicario, whom I saw, promised to recommend England to the Provincial, who is here, and through him to the thirty brothers here, and five houses in Lombardy—vento. Then I went to the bank. Dined at 1, and at 2 we started with a Swiss voiturier, whom we had engaged to take us to Geneva. We passed the beautiful triumphal arch, L'Arco della Pace, reckoned the finest in the world, ancient and modern. We got to sleep at a nice inn, in a place called Casiua buon Jesu. I wrote a letter to Dr. Wiseman.

Thursday, September 19. San Januarius.—I said mass at the little oratory of the village. There is mass here only on Sundays generally, but the bell rung three times for my mass, and we had a full chapel. This chapel not very neat; it seemed used for a school-room. We started at ½ past 7, and reached Avona at 12 to dine. How I was struck with the remembrance of the last time in this place with my father and mother, after coming in a boat with Dr. Wilson from Bavino. The inn is a fine new house since then. We saw a steamboat pass, which plies daily the whole length of the lake. I missed going to St. Charles's statue and the seminary near it, belonging to the diocese of Novara, where I should have liked to go to preach England. After dinner we started and went round to Strass, where we stopped and went up the mountain's side to see Rosmini's Novitiate, which overlooks the village. It is a large house, without beauty or character, unhappily. We knew we should not find Rosinini, who is at Roveredo. We saw Segnini and two other priests, Paoli and Gagliardi. They have thirty novices. The situation is beautiful. The ground belonged before to Madame Bolognaro, who has a large house in the town, where, while we were at the convent, the Bishop of Novara came. I would not have failed to ask an audience had I been alone, but I made the priests promise to speak to him of England. We took a boat to go to the Isola Bella, to see the palace and gardens on our way to Bavino, the carriage going on there by itself. It was almost dark when we got there, and we could only see the suite of grand rooms and pictures, and the chapel with the old family tombs brought from Milan, by candlelight. Mem. A room of rockwork underneath the chief suite, where Bonaparte dined, and the bedroom he slept in. The whole of this grandeur is made worse than worthless by the indecent statues and pictures which are all about the place. We got to Bavino at 8; a nice new inn.

Friday, Sept. 20.—Ember Day, but no fast for me! I got to say mass at 4½, and we started at 6 to ascend the Simplon. The day was beautiful. We got to Domodossola at 11. We went up the beautiful road to the Monte Calvario, of which Gentili has made me think so much, first having taken a look at their college in the town, where there are 19 boarders and more than 200 out-students. At the Calvary two priests received us kindly. Along the road to it are chapels with the stations represented in groups of figures as large as life, well executed; only two or three are complete. The situation here again is admirable. The house and church not remarkable. I was well received for England. Coming down, which I did after the rest, I visited a pretty Capuchin convent, half-way up, of fifteen friars, and had a good reception (promise to write to the other houses). After dinner at 2 we set off for Simplon, which we reached after 8. The voiturier (coachman), to spare his horses, put us on post-horses at his own expense. The road on the Piedmontese side is sadly dilapidated. It was broken down (by water, as it seems) six years ago, and the King of Sardinia will not have his part repaired, to make people go by Mount Cenis and Turin. Put up at the Simplon Inn.

Saturday, Sept. 21. St. Matthew.—I said mass at 7, spoke to the curé after, who promised for England. We started at 8; we still had two hours going up the hill. About the summit is the Hospice de St. Bernard, begun by Bonaparte. I remember it in an unfinished state. It now contains four or five priests, and some brothers. We stopped and saw the Prior, M. Barras, who promised kindly to recommend England to the mother house. Phillipps bought a puppy of the famous breed, three months old, who was added to our company in the carriage. We reached Brigy between 12 and 1. I went out before dinner, and saw the Superior of the Jesuits' College here, who is a nice old man, and received us very kindly. I hurried away quickly, thinking to return again after dinner, but the dinner was long after time, and we had at once to set off for Turtinan, which we reached at 6½. We went out before tea to see a waterfall: it was a dark, wet walk, for rain was beginning.

Sunday, Sept. 22.—I said mass at 5. Soon after 6 we set off for Sion. Arrived at 10, and found a grand military pontifical high mass begun in the cathedral. I never heard drums and cannon and the word of command in a mass before. The music was not military, but noisy figured. The occasion of the solemn mass was the feast of St. Maurice, patron of the Valais. After mass the Bishop walked with a great procession about the town, with a feretrum, with relics of St. Maurice. The chief part are at the town of the name, which we are to pass to-morrow. The procession had an excellent effect. I went then to the Jesuits' College, and spoke to the Rector, who told me the first I had heard of the attempt at revolution in the month of May here, which was defeated in a gallant style by the inhabitants of the Valais arming to the number of 10,000, from a population of 70,000, under an old French officer, i.e., a Swiss, trained in the French army, who repelled the party of the Jeune Suisse, who otherwise would have overturned religious order, and perhaps, as he said, have massacred all the religious. Young Bodenham was in their house when the danger threatened. The Rector was very kind, but did not promise much. I went then to dine at a table d'hôte, but soon got off, and went to the Bishop lately consecrated, who came from table to speak with me. He was educated at the Collegio Germanico; knew Baldacconi and Father Daniel. He promised his help. I then went to a Capuchin convent outside the town. The guardian, a young man, was rather cold, but said meanwhile that he always prayed for England, as ordered in the Confrérie de l'Immaculé Coeur. Then to a convent of Ursulines, close to the Bishop's; eleven nuns (well received); then in a hurry to an hospital outside the town on the other side, with eight nuns. The director gave me one of my most favourable receptions, and promised that the nuns should change their day of communion from Friday to Thursday to meet my wishes. We set off at 2 for Martigny, which we reached at 5½. It has a different look from 1819, the year after the inundation. I called on the curé, who is one of the monks of Grand St. Bernard, with the white linen scapular to represent the surplice, which they always wear as canons regular of St. Augustine, to which they belong. He was very good about England. From thence, I went to an hospital kept by six French nuns, to receive poor travellers, female St. Bernardites. The Superioress was very agreeable and zealous. They are going directly to France to make their retreat with 600 other nuns, assembled under the Bishop of Belley. She promised to get him to recommend it to them all. I came back to tea after a happy, successful day (Hôtel de la Cigne). Alpine strawberries at tea.

Monday, September 23.—I said mass at 6. Came away, fearing it would be too late, without saying farewell to the Prior, which was mortifying, as there was time enough. We went to dine at St. Gingolph, beautifully placed on the bank of the Lake of Geneva. On the way we stopped at St. Maurice, where we saw in the church the rich shrine of St. Maurice, containing his body, and several others; two of the sons of Sigismund, King of Burgundy, who did penance here, after putting them to death. In the abbey, which is of the Canons Regular of St. Augustine, I saw the superior, who is a bishop in partibus; he spoke very kindly about England. I also met a nun there of a convent of Sisters of Charity, who promised for Thursdays at St. Gingolph. I went to the curé, where the Vicar introduced me to several priests dining with him, who became greatly interested, and promised to speak to the Bishop of Annecy, and to their confrères at Thonon, where we came to sleep. I called on the curé, who promised, but I could not quite satisfy myself about him; but was quite satisfied with the brothers of the Christian Doctrine; there are eight. The Superior promised well, and sent two brothers home with me to the inn. The names of the priests at St. Gingolph were:—M. Veuillet, Curé de Désingy; M. Maitre, Curé de Novel; M. La Croix, Vicaire de Chilly; and M. Pollien, Vicaire de St. Gingolph. The first most interesting: the last extremely tall.

Tuesday, Sept. 24. B.M.V. di Mercede.—At 5½ I went to the Convent of the Visitation, where there are thirty-four nuns, who have recovered their house after the Revolution. The Superioress received me most kindly, and promised all. I then went to the Sisters of Charity, who have two houses—a pensionnat and an hospital. The Superioress was not up. I left my card with a lay sister. I then went and said mass at the parish church. The Phillippses went to communion. It was at the altar of St. Francis of Sales, in this, the first church which he (or any other one) regained from the Calvinists—St. Hippolyte. I offered the mass for the recovery of our dear cathedrals. The curé spoke to me again, and much more zealously promised all for Thonon, M. De la Millière. We ought to have gone to the Château d'Allinges, where St. Francis lodged when he began the holy work. The chapel has been wonderfully preserved, and lately reopened, Sept. 14, 1836. On our way to Geneva, where we arrived at 12½, we read some of the account of his mission. We came to the Hotel de Bergues, a new grand house in a new part of the town, built out on the lake about 1834. I took a carriage to Plainpalais, and brought back my good friend l'Abbé de Baudry. I dined after at the table d'hôte. He is a tall, venerable old man, dressed in his cassock, as all the priests are. His account of things here was better than I thought. We set off at 3½, and could not get farther than Nyon, where Phillipps and I went to see the curé and his church, all new. There was no mission here till 1831. We interested him for England, I hope. The hotel is de la Couronne. In every room, as at Geneva, is a New Testament of the Geneva Bible Society.

Wednesday, Sept. 25.—I went at 5 to say mass at the new church; the curé, M. Rossiaud, got up to serve it, and came with me to see us off. We went up the Jura; but the grand view of Mont Blanc was clouded, so we have but once seen it dimly. Yesterday evening we had a troublesome sorting of all our baggage at Les Rousses. We dined at St. Laurent. I went to the curé, M. Gottez, who spoke painfully of the state of France (I think too much so), but brightened up when we were about England. We went on to Champagnole, at the Hôtel de la Poste, a nice little inn. Phillipps and I went to the church; and I called and saw the curé, like Dr. Rock in looks. He accepted my appeal agreeably.

Thursday, Sept. 26.—I got to say mass at the parish church, at 5. The curé, M. Patit, and the vicaire, M. Bouvet, were both up, and the latter walked back with me to the inn, la Poste. We started at 6½; dined at 1 at l'Hôtel de France, at Dole: we got there at 12. I went out and saw a father at the Jesuits', who received me very agreeably; and then a nun at the Visitation Convent. The Jesuit promised for all the convents himself. The Prince and Princess Doria were come to the inn, on their way to Italy. When we came back, I went to see them after our dinner. We went on through Auxonne, where Phillipps and I went to see the church,—diligence to Dijon. Arrived at the Hôtel de la Cloche at 7½. I went out to see the Bishop, but he was out. I called at the Séminaire, and saw the Superior and others, who were very kind, and spoke of Brother Luke asking them; then back to supper; after which I went again to the évêché, and waited in the porter's lodge, talking to a nice old man of eighty about the Revolution, &c., till the Bishop came in. He, Monseigneur Rivet, promised his help very graciously. I got home at 10, having also tried in vain to get at the sacristan for mass tomorrow.

Friday, Sept. 27.—I went out at ten minutes to 4, to try once more the sacristan's bell, but no answer, and so I had to come back and give up mass, as we were to start at 5. We took provisions in the carriage, and we had no mind to stop all day, till at 7½ we reached St. Florentin, a town of 2,400 people, in the diocese of Sens. The weather was beautiful, and we admired the high cultivation and seeming prosperity of the country. We passed a fine château at Aucy le Franc, of the Duce or Marquis de Clermont-Tonnerre. At St. Florentin I went out and saw the curé and the sacristan, to provide better for mass to-morrow than today. Hôtel de la Poste.

Saturday, Sept. 28.—Got up about 3. At a quarter to 4 I went to the sacristan, and with him to the church, and said mass; a pretty little Gothic church. We set off at a quarter to 5, with provisions again, for Paris, which we entered about 11 at night. We stopped at Sens to see the cathedral. I first went to the archévêché, and was most graciously received by the Archbishop, Monseigneur Mellon Jolly, a young man translated here from Séez last March. He said he had introduced prayers for England at Séez, and would begin again now. He took me into the cathedral, and left me to see the trésor, where the Phillippses already were. The most precious relic was of the true cross, as the sacristan said, the largest in the world; but he could not know of Rome and Jerusalem. It was given by Charlemagne. There are two pieces, placed in a cross under crystal; I should say the upright piece of nine or ten inches, the transverse of four or five, well polished. What was perhaps most interesting to us was the case containing St. Thomas of Canterbury's chasuble, alb with apparel, stole, &c., from which the late Archbishop separated what he gave to Dr. Wiseman. There is also an arm of St. Lupus, a case of St. Gregory's relics, from which some have been begged for Rome. We stopped again at Fontainebleau, and took a rapid view of the palace. The servant who led said it was the finest in the world. I think he must be partial, as the sacristan this morning about the relic of the cross. Louis-Philippe has done a good deal here; spent 800,000 fr. in ornamenting one room. I was much pleased with the gallery with pictures of the history of France. This is the finest matter for a palace. There was much very indecent. After this it began to rain till we got to Paris. We got rooms at the Hôtel de l'Europe, just opposite the gardens of the Tuileries. Nothing could be better.

Sunday, Sept. 29.—I went at 7½ to say mass at the Madeleine, that glorious church for its style. Then home to breakfast, and then, with the rest, to high mass at Notre-Dame; one of the grandest plain chant masses I ever was at. There I met Mr. Moore, of Birmingham; and I went with him after, in his hackney-coach, on a few errands, and at last to the English convent, from whence he takes one of the Misses Bingham to the convent at Handsworth. Then I went again to Notre-Dame, and very much to my loss: I came too late for vespers. After, I went to St. Jacques, but did not find the Curé de Noirlieu, nor his vicaire. I came back by the omnibus to dine at the restaurant, and directly we went to Notre-Dame des Victoires, where we assisted at the service, from 7 to 20 minutes to 10. It was wonderful to see the attention of the people all this time. The old curé, after the sermon by another priest, gave the annonces in an interesting way. We heard him recommend England. I went in to ask him.

Monday, Sept. 30.—I said mass at the Madeleine. After breakfast, I went to Mr. Blount, the banker, who told me that Heneage was to be in Paris on Thursday, the very day we go away. Then to the post, and find no letters; then by omnibus to St. Sulpice (where the retreat of the clergy begins to-day), to see the Archbishop. I was introduced to him in a room, where he was among several priests. I got on but poorly. He was gracious, but made little of the affair. The secretary of Mgr. Quelin was there. He testified to his recommending the thing before, but no effect followed. This was damping enough, though I knew something to the contrary. The Archbishop sent me to M. Vollemaux (Mr. Hand's friend), who conducts the retreat, and he promised to recommend England this evening. So the point is gained; though, judging from the tone in which he spoke of England, it is not so promising a prospect as some. But among 600 priests some will be inspired, let him speak as he may. I then went to the rue de Chaillot, to seek Captain Cooke, to know about John Beaumont. Had to come back empty, and stopped at home, not very well, till 5½, when Phillippses came in from St. Denis to dinner. After dinner Mr. Gordon, of the Univers, came to tea, and stopped till 10 nearly.

Tuesday, Oct. 1.—I went to say mass at Notre-Dame des Victoires, in les Petits Pères, at 8½. I breakfasted near them, and had a talk with Abbé Desgenettes. Then went to breakfast à la fourchette, at 11, with M. Noirlieu, Curé of St. Jacques, and his vicaire, Bourjéant. The latter forced me, against my will, to have some papers with an image and a prayer for England printed. It is the like case with Belgium. I hope it may be well, as it certainly was not my will, and so the denial of my will may be a blessing. We then went to call on the nuncio, Mgr. Fornari; and then to the engravers for this said work. Mgr. Fornari is grown very stout and unwieldy, but was very kind and pleasing; he encouraged my pursuit and this printing. We went home again to St. Jacques to rédiger the prayers, when again my friend would have his way against my mind in a point or two. I came thence to the Bank, M. Blount's, then home, and dined alone; then went to call on Captain Cooke, to ask about John Beaumont, who, it seems, does not come to Paris at all; then home, where I found the Phillippses going out to a spectacle, and so I had to go off and try to stop at l'Abbé Desgenettes', who was to come to see him, but he was already from home, and so I came back and received his visit, when I pressed him for England, and he took it well.

Wednesday, Oct. 2.—By desire of M. Gallard, Vicaire of the Madeleine, expressed by M. Bourgoiner, I said mass there. After breakfast, I called on Mrs. Heneage and her daughter, 17, rue St. Florentin; then took omnibus to St. Denis, where I looked through the church below ground and above. It is greatly altered since 1838—wonderful work of painting and stained glass, yet a very little is done of what has to be done. I came back by omnibus to Porte St. Martin; then walked home at 6. I dined with Captain Cooke—a family dinner, purely English, as he is himself. I liked his conversation much, blunt and plain as it is. He talked of his twenty years' service—Egypt—America. I came home at 8 to meet MM. Noirlieu and Bourgoigne and Gordon, who came to tea and made interesting company till 11, I think.

Thursday, Oct. 3.—Said mass at St. Roch; after, I went to the Jesuits, Rue des Postes, and saw the Provincial, M. Boulanger; then to the Sisters of Charity, Rue de Bac; the Sacré Coeur, where Mad. de Gramont gave me a most amiable reception; the Lazarists, Rue de Sevres; then I tried to see one of the Society of St. Vincent de Paul, and went with a zealous young clerk from their office, 37, Rue de Seine, St. Germain, to seek an avocat at the Palais de Justice. I was handing about the engravings, which were ordered on Tuesday, and which are well received. The sister, deputed to see me at the Sisters of Charity, alone, was cold. She was the same as six years ago, when she was very gracious. I came home to dine at 1 alone; at 2 I went to see Heneage, just arrived at his father and mother's from Dieppe. I sat an hour very happily with him, and came home at the time appointed to go away, but it was deferred till to-morrow. So I went to the chief house of the Ecoles Chrétiennes, about 126, Rue du Faubourg St. Martin. The Superior-General was very favourable, and promised to recommend England to his community of 300, and to the 400 houses of his order. I then took omnibus to the Rue de Bac, and had an interesting conversation with Abbé Dubois, now eighty years old. Ever since 1838, he prays for England every day in the mass. He is in retreat. He receives a pension of £100 a year from England. I went again and had tea with him, and so finished the day happily.

Friday, Oct. 4.—Mass at St. Roch. We started for Boulogne at 9½. We stopped on the way to see the Church of St. Vincent de Paul, building in most splendid style, in form of a basilica inside, but with a portico without. Then I stopped at St. Denis, and walked round it again; saw in addition the winter choir most richly adorned. Mem.—The twelve Apostles holding the consecration crosses round the walls. We went on to dine at Beauvais. We went, when it was growing dark, to take a look at the cathedral. The choir alone complete—the finest in the world. We said that the French, with their present zeal and prosperity, would finish this cathedral if the peace lasts ten more years. I left them in the church, and went to see the Bishop. He was at dinner, but came out and introduced me to the party, namely, the directors of the Seminary (among them my acquaintance, M. Bareau), and some Jesuits. He was most kind and favourable, and promised before them all that he would say mass for England once a week for a year. The others all sympathised. After this beautiful incident, I came home, and we dined at the Écu de France. We afterwards drove on to Grandvilliers; arrived at 11. The King of the French dined there yesterday; the landlady was in raptures at it; there was the Queen, and in all twenty-six, at table.

Saturday, Oct. 5.—As they failed to awake me, I missed saying mass. We set off at 6½, and went, almost without a stop, dining in the carriage (135 kilometres, about 85 miles), to Boulogne, where we stopped at the Hôtel des Bains. I went directly to see the Grand Doyen, who was very kind. Returning, I found Mr. Digby with them. Louis-Philippe's birthday—71 years old.

Sunday, October 6.—I said mass at 8½; got back to breakfast, and then we went together to the high mass, sung by Dr. Walsh, Bishop of Halifax. He had no mitre. After this, Mrs. Canning met me in the sacristy, and we went to her house, No. 5, Rue de Doyen. At 2 we walked to the Haute Ville, where we visited the Visitation Nuns in their grand new house, twenty-seven in number, and the Ursulines, fifty-two in number; then to M. Haffreingue. At 6 I went to dine with the Digbys; saw Mrs. Digby for the first time. The Phillippses were there, and four or five more. I walked back with the Doyen in heavy rain at 10, and entered my lodgings with L'Abbé Daniel, 73, Grande Rue.

Monday, October 7.—I went with Mrs. Canning to the Visitation Convent, and said the community mass at 9. After it we breakfasted in the parlour at 11. M. Haffreingue came in with the Phillippses, who had breakfasted with him, and the Superioress, an English lady of the name of Muller, and other nuns, showed us round the house, which is most stately and beautiful, though it would have been wonderfully better had the money been spent on Gothic work. Mrs. Canning and I left at 12½, and called on Mr. Errington. We came down to dine at 2. The Doyen and M. Daniel came. The Bishop also came to luncheon at 8. I went up to the Haute Ville, and first called on M. Gillies, a Scotch gentleman, converted last year; then went to Digby's for the evening. Besides Phillippses, &c., I saw Nicholas Ball. Came back at 10½.

Tuesday, October 8.—Said mass at 7½; then went to breakfast with Mrs. Canning. About 11 we set off for the Haute Ville, and went once more to the Visitation Convent, where we were allowed to see the whole community through their grate for three quarters of an hour, that I might do my best to recommend England, which I tried to do. Then I visited M. Gillies, and got down to dinner at 2¼. M. Le Cointe, M. Le Roy, and M. Daniel, dined with us. After dinner we went out and visited, first, the Soeurs Grises, an austere convent of poor nuns, who teach school. They have 900 girls under care. The Superioress promised for all; if she fulfils it, it is a fine gain. Then to the Ecoles Chrétiennes. They are seventeen brothers, teaching 1,100 boys in different schools. They were very encouraging; promised for themselves and the boys. After an hour's office and tea, I went to the Haute Ville to see Phillipps and his party at Digby's for the last time, as they go to-morrow. Met Mr. W. Jones and wife, and others. Then at 9 I went to visit Judge Ball at the Hôtel de Londres. The Bishop and others were there. The family was Mr. Ball, Nicholas, and Alexander, and a daughter.

Wednesday, October 9.—I said mass at the Ursulines at 7½, first addressing them on England for a quarter of an hour. Then breakfasted, during which six English nuns were in attendance, and Miss Swift. Then my cousin and I walked to the Annonciades, when we could not see the Superioress; then to the Dames de Notre-Dame du bon Secours (gardes malades, seventeen nuns). Then in the Basse Ville to the Hospitalieres (thirteen nuns); these promised well. Then I went home to office till dinner at 2. Mrs. Canning and M. Tallier, Curé de Nemfchatel, who takes care of them, came over to meet me. At 4 M. Thillay came. These two promised to do all they could. At 5 Mrs. C. and I walked to the steamboat office, post-office, &c. Came back to office and tea. Then I went up to change my quarters, and pass some days at the college with M. Haffreingue. I first called and saw Mrs. Gillies. I sat some time with M. Haffreingue, and to bed at 10.

Thursday, October 10.—Said mass at ¼ to 8. At 10 Dr. Walsh came up and sung mass de Spiritu Sancto, for the opening of studies. The boys came back yesterday. I assisted him as Assistant Deacon. At 1½ we dined. The Bishop, M. O'Reilly, and a M. Cardham, a London convert, were all the strangers. The rest were the professors of the house. After dinner we had toasts, cheers, and speeches, on England, Mr. O'Reilly leading it. At 10, I went and saw Abbate Melia at Mrs. Errington's. He is going to replace Baldacconi in London. Then to Mrs. Canning's to tea. Returned for night prayers at 7½. Supper comes after. I talked to M. Haffreingue about architecture.

Friday, October 11.—I said mass at 7½ in the chapel of Notre-Dame de Boulogne; breakfasted with M. Haffreingue. At 10 I called on Digby, then Mrs. Canning, and Mrs. Gillies. I dined in the Infirmary, to eat meat with M. Grettan, the English teacher, and little Rosamel, grandson of a great admiral. M. Haffreingue and I took a walk, and went through the crypt of the cathedral. Night prayers and supper in the refectory at 7½. After it, M. Haffreingue and I went to call on Mrs. Muller and Digby.

Saturday, October 12.—Said mass in the Chapelle de Notre-Dame. Miss Muller breakfasted with us. She is the great support of M. Haffreingue's great work of building the cathedral, having begged for it for years past. I asked her to have prayers made for England, as M. Haffreingue announces the cathedral to be undertaken mainly for that enterprise. She promised to interest the poor. I thought of my sermon, and did other things till near 12. When I went out, called on Mr. Stewart, a Scotch pastrycook, lately converted and received by Sisk. At 1, I dined (gras) with Mrs. Canning. After, called on Lady Burke and her two daughters, near the Porte. Came back after; walked an hour in the Grande Salle with Haffreingue, talking over projects for England and France.

Sunday, October 13.—Got up after 7, and sung high mass in the chapel at 9. After it I went to Mrs. Canning's till dinner time, when I returned and dined in the refectory. The afternoon was mostly preparing my sermon, which I preached on the conversion of England at the salut at 7. The boys clapped their hands to my surprise when I entered the refectory to supper; in token of acceptance, I hope. I got on better than I could have thought, and was not a bit tired. After supper I went with M. Haffreingue and M. Le Roy; a farewell visit to Digby. It blows hard, and I fear it will be a bad passage to-morrow, or none at all.

Monday, October 14.—The Abbate Melia, Dr. Baldacconi's intended successor, came to sing songs, and breakfast at the college, and went down with me to the port. Mr. Bodenham came with us, too. We waited from 9 till 10.20 before they set off. They seemed to fear the wind. When we got out it was a most stormy passage to Folkestone, of three hours. I stood up all the way, holding on, talking with M. Crawley, of the Hotel, Albemarle Street, except we were nearly sick. We swung through the narrow walk of Folkestone Harbour, and were at once smooth, and soon on England's soil. It was a long work passing the Custom House, but we got off by a train at 3.49. I set Mr. Melia down at Pagliano's, where we found Dr. Walsh (of Halifax), and had tea. Sisk and Mgr. Eyre came in by good fortune, and I went with them home to their quarters at the Chelsea chapel-house.

Tuesday, October 15.—Said mass at 8½. Then went to try Dr. Chambers, who is out of town. Then to Spence House, and saw Appleyard. By his advice, I determined to go to Windsor to-day, the Queen being just now away. I called on Father Lithgoe, and attended a meeting of ladies at Sisk's, then off by the Great Western Railway to Slough, and so to Windsor. I saw Caroline at Lady Grant's, where she lodges, close to the Castle, where I dined at 8, first having seen Sarah at the Castle, and the Prince of Wales, with whom she was playing. He is a weakly-looking child of four, but noble and clever looking. He behaved prettily to us all in going off to bed.

Wednesday, October 16.—After sleeping at the Castle Inn, I walked to the Catholic chapel at Chrom, attended last Sunday by Louis-Philippe, who charmed them all. I said mass, and then Mr. Wilson took me in a gig a mile on to call on Mr. Riley, at Forest Hill. He was out. I thence called to Windsor, and was with Sarah from 12 to 1½, while the children were asleep. Then went down to Eton, called on Mr. Coleridge, then walked about the well-known places, the chapel, the cloisters, where I left a card on Wilder, now a fellow. I went and mused over the place which once was Godley's, but all is levelled. I stood by the oak-tree there, saw the boys assembling for 3 o'clock school, and talked to some. I brought back many a scene thirty years and more ago. At 3, started back and dined with Sisk. After dinner we went to see Mrs. Bagshawe and Mrs. Jauch back in an omnibus.

Thursday, October 17.—Mass at 8½. Went to see Dr. Watson, whom I found to be my former friend, fellow of St. John's. It was a good account of me, thank God. Then to Mr. Nerincx, at Somers Town. Then to Mr. Morel, at Hampstead, and Mrs. Sankey, near him; then called at the Sardinian Chapel, and home to dine, and sit the evening with Sisk.

Friday, October 18. (This journal breaks off here, and is not resumed.)