J O U R N A L. (continued 3)

Monday, September 6th.—Captain Martin had kindly offered to tow me and my boat’s crew across to Opa if I could manage to be ready. He would come down and anchor at Kerepei, and fire a gun as a signal for me. The gun went, but I was not ready, and after breakfast I went down to tell him so. Being a French ship they kept French hours, and I found a second breakfast awaiting me on board. Twelve people had recruited at Tanrowo, and all had been bought with snider rifles, and plenty of ammunition. French and English recruiting laws are very different. Vessels from Queensland and Fiji are not allowed to give guns or ammunition to the natives, but the French do just as they like. While I was on board, another silly female was recruited. In one of her humours she had run away from her husband, and had come a distance of twelve or fifteen miles, to be engaged for three years as the slave and tool of some depraved Frenchman on one of the island stations. I could say nothing, although I knew the result of the embarkation. However, the Captain promised me that he would call again at the place, and see the woman’s friends, and if they consented to her going, he would keep her and pay for her, but if not, she should be put on shore again. How far or how truly he will carry out his promise I do not know, but he is a tender hearted and, I think, an upright man in his dealings with the natives. As soon as I was ashore, he lifted his anchor and went up the coast, but I have not yet heard what he did. He was very kind to our boys, and gave them several tins of meat and biscuits. We made a fire at Ruosi, and there they cooked their dinner, while after a bathe I came home. In the evening it rained very hard, and just before the bell went for Prayers, our congregation was therefore not so large as usual, and our numbers thinner at school. I was very tired, and went early to bed.

Wednesday, September 7th.—Very heavy rain during the night succeeded this morning by a northerly wind, and a hot, close, oppressive day. I have not felt it so warm since I have been here, and I was glad that my duties kept me at home, and mostly in doors all the day. Nothing here seems possible to be done without a feast and a dance, and all work was postponed to-day to do my new fence the honour of having a supper prepared for it. Any excuse for eating and dancing. The women were kept busy at the ovens cooking, and the men away at the seaside endeavouring to get a meal of fish, seemingly the choicest compliment possible to be paid to the exterior decoration of my house. The fence making certainly was a most laborious business, and the result, if not strikingly beautiful, has the advantage of being strong and durable, and hitherto pig-proof.

The men returned in the afternoon with about thirty nice fish, which were at once consigned to the oven, and in the evening the feast was spread here in front of my house, and the whole village assembled to partake. Grace was said, and the huge quantities of food distributed, and eaten with very evident relish. Postprandial grace having been said, the company dispersed, and soon all the festal remnants, too, disappeared. The evening was one of the most glorious I have ever seen, and I sat outside my house for a long time talking with the people. Many were prevented attending by reason of sickness, and our numbers at Prayers and school were not so full as usual. After school a dance was proposed, but did not come off. Instead thereof, a few of the men came and serenaded me, very quietly and softly, and much more in consonance with my feelings than the noisy songs and clappings of the dance. It was one of those nights in which it was a “shame to go to bed,” but tired nature seeks repose, and soon the village was sunk in silent slumber.

Wednesday, September 8th.—Another most glorious morning followed by a very hot and ennervating day. After our morning duties here, public and private, I went with some of the boys to Ruosi. It was very pleasant there by the water side, and one got a perfect freedom from the blue bottles, which invaded my house in such numbers, this morning, that I had to retire. The discomfort of these loathsome creatures is excessive, and one gets away from them as far as possible. Not having had a washing day for some days, I made one to-day, and myself turned washerwoman. The one idea of natives with respect to clothes washing, is to pile on the soap agony, and leave your garments as stiff as a board, and almost as uncomfortable to wear. I entrusted a pair of white flannel trowsers, and a white flannel coat to one of the boys to wash, but I tremble to think what the result will be. On our way homeward we were stopped by loud “cooes” from the rear rank, and Patrick came running forward to say “They are here.” Soon a white hat appeared, and I fancied at once it must be the “Southern Cross,” but wondered why she had come so quickly.

However, I was soon undeceived, and was greeted by Mr. Coates, Government Agent of the “Lord of the Isles” from Fiji. He was photographing the Falls, and the boys brought him on here. He was very amiable, and followed me on to the village. He took three views of different parts of the place, and after staying a short time returned again to the ship as night was rapidly approaching. It is so seldom that a white man ventures up here, that the sight of one is a seven days’ wonder. He came quite unarmed, and was evidently not frightened by the ferocity of our people. It is customary to look upon natives as naturally wild and ferocious, and few white men trust themselves among them without arms. However, of course we always go armed with a Power more protective than a Colt’s revolver, and we, I suppose, engender trust in the natives by trusting them.

The “Lord of the Isles” is a large ship of 300 tons, and has brought over two hundred natives from Fiji as returned labour.

Mr. Coates told me that the Conservative Government was in power with Lord R. Churchill as Premier, and that the English Government had sent an ultimatum to the French to withdraw their troops from the New Hebrides, or their action in sending them there would be looked upon as a breach of faith and an act of aggression. There will be troubles down here yet I fear, with all the shilly-shallying there is over the annexation of these islands. The French are evidently intending some forward step, for they have troops both in Havannah Harbour, and Port Sandwich (Mallicollo), and the Nouvelles-Hebrides Company are buying land right and left all over these islands. It would not be pleasant to find myself a prisoner in France instead of a free man in England, and I hope there may be no fear of such a criterion.

Our evening duties as usual ended with singing.

Thursday, September 9th.—Another most glorious morning, and a bright warm day. My home duties kept me here till far on in the day, when I joined a large picnic party at Ruosi. Certainly these natives take life easily, and in their own way get a good deal of enjoyment out of it. They seem utterly devoid of that care and worry which kills so many of us, and certainly follow the Scripture injunction as to taking no anxious thought. Nature affords them all they want for their bodily comfort, and I trust religion supplies the rest. It is perfectly wonderful how far more merry and light hearted they are than their heathen neighbours, and I fondly hope the secret is within, such jolly, amiable, good-natured creatures they are, and so happy and friendly and harmonious among themselves. The sportsmen to the number of twelve or fifteen went off in search of wild fowl, or any other of the feathered tribe they might come across, the cooks setting to work to get the oven alight and start the cooking. Prawns were caught in abundance, and were eaten with roasted taro, as a sort of lunch, and green cocoanuts were secured as the refreshing beverage. It was an animated and picturesque scene, and in the evening the sportsmen returned with five fowls and one owl, an odd looking object, as the result of their day’s sport. These birds were soon consigned to the oven with the other food, and were partaken of in the evening. I came away beforehand and had my dinner here. It was a most gloriously still and beautiful evening and the native songs sung by the boys coming home, sounded very pretty in the distance. There seems to have been an exuberant joyous spirit about to-day, animating everyone, and never since I have been here, have I known so hearty and bright a service as we had this evening.

After school most of the boys and younger men went to “Unduna,” a suburb of Tanrig, to a great dance, which is to be kept up till morning light. The occasion of it is the ‘nasu’ing of two gamals to-morrow, and nothing can be done without a dance. Arthur, who has neither the strength nor the inclination to go, has been keeping me company, and we have had some nice and profitable conversation. He has left me now, and in the stillness of the most glorious night, the song of the dancers breaks upon one’s ear, and makes one conscious that one is in the Melanesian Islands. Besides that one sound, nothing else is audible, and I myself am going to prepare for the quiet and rest of my humble couch.

Saturday, September 11th.—Started this morning after breakfast for Tasmate by boat, and saw a vessel heading in for the watering place. This was the Southern Cross from the islands, and before long she came to anchor and we were on board shaking hands. We were somewhat surprised to see the Bishop, but he was not well and was going for the change to Norfolk Island. None of the party on board looked very well, but they were going South and would soon feel the benefit of the colder weather. Mr. Turnbull came back with me and spent the night here. After service I held a consultation with the teachers as to Arthur’s going to Norfolk Island, and they were unanimous that he ought to go. A. P. Huqe offered to stay in his place. The vessel was much earlier than I expected her, but none too early. The news generally, very good.

There were five earthquake shocks to-day, one of which was very severe, felt equally on shore and at sea. The Captain fancied the ship was on a rock.

Monday, September 13th.—Yesterday I spent at Tanrig. Mr. Turnbull slept the night with me, and spent the whole of Sunday. We had school in the early morning and after that, breakfast. Then followed Morning Prayer with a very large congregation. In the afternoon Mr. Comins, Mr. Plant, Mr. Brittain, the Captain, Engineer, and a large number of Melanesians came up to see the village and stayed to our social meal in the evening. They were all quite charmed with the people and the place, and enjoyed very much the pleasant walk. Mr. Turnbull took his departure, and Mr. Brittain spent the night with me. The party, with the exception of Mr. Comins, were not successful on the return journey and missing the track got into the taro gardens, and floundered about in the mud in the most helpless confusion. Not finding a way out of their difficulty they tried back, and hit happily upon the right track. This little episode threw somewhat of a damper upon the visit, and the party returned rather wet and crestfallen to the ship. Mr. Comins was accused of being the cause of the misfortune, and I believe those who fared worse than he heaped their approbrium on him when they got on board. The Bishop was not well, and we were all disappointed not to see him at our head quarters. Naturally, a visit from our Bishop is looked upon as a red letter day by our people, and if he cannot come the disappointment is very apparent. Mr. Brittain and I dined together and spent a most pleasant evening. It was a most glorious evening, and the calm peace of a cloudless sunset gave place to the most brilliant moonlight. We sat outside the house talking to the people until Prayer time. The service was a very impressive one, for I got Arthur to say a few words to his people before leaving them, and the thought of going away raised a great lump in his throat, and for some moments, although generally so ready and so eloquent, he could not say a word. Several times there was a tremble in his voice and he was nigh to breaking down, and his own undisguisable emotion produced a visible effect on his congregation. He said in the course of his remarks, that to-day they had seen a great concourse of people at their village, of many colours and nationalities. But though divided by race, differing in speech, and separated in locality, they were all one people with them, because through Christ they were all united in one, owning one God and Father of all, believing one Common Saviour, knit together by one Spirit, and professing one religion. Though so many and so various we were all one in Christ. And then he went on to speak of himself and them, still carrying on the same idea, and he said that although divided in bodily presence, unseen by the bodily eye, and separated by the wide ocean, they were still one in spirit and in heart. Oceans could not separate those whom God had joined together, and whether near or far they were still all one in Christ. And then almost overcome, he said it might be God’s will that they should never again see each others’ faces, but they must look forward to the great meeting time beyond the grave, where parting would again be unknown, and those whom Christ had joined together, and made one in Himself should be one for ever with Him and behold His glory. Because they were going to be separated it was no reason that they should forget each other, but day by day they should remember each other at the Throne of Grace, until such time as they should be reunited in this world, or if not, in the world to come. I followed with a few remarks, and a very impressive service concluded with the Blessing. After the service I called the teachers together to make final arrangements for our departure to-morrow, and Patrick was quite content to take charge of the school. I am very glad that he should, and I quite feel that the extra responsibility will be good for him.

Arthur Huqe will go with me to Opa for the change, and return again with me when the ship comes back from Norfolk Island. Two Maewo lads have expressed a wish to go with us to Opa, and I am very glad of any exchange of friendship between the two islands. It will do them good to see other places, and enlarge their minds and ideas to see other people beside themselves. Moreover, being with Arthur, a native of Opa, they will not feel so lonely as if going by themselves. They are two nice boys, and I hope they will profit by the little outing.

Mr. Brittain’s enthusiasm was quite cheering, and we were very late in getting to bed, being so busy talking over our mutual work, inasmuch as our district is one, and he knows the people here so well.

This morning we were astir very early, and after Prayers and breakfast were very busy getting ready for our departure. Many hands made light work, and soon our impedimenta were shouldered by willing bearers, and we were on our way for the Kerepei. We had a most pleasant walk down, Mr. Brittain most cheery and appreciative all the way, and we were all on board very soon after the stipulated time, 10 o’clock. We had a light wind to start with, but it soon fell calm, and the engineer’s services were called into requisition. It is very hot work steaming in these latitudes, and the cabin especially gets very stuffy. We anchored at Opa between five and six o’clock, and I got my things ready for the start ashore in daylight. Mr. Brittain and Mr. Turnbull came with me, and we visited the French Trader ashore, who was said to have the latest telegrams. We were quite astonished, not only at the polite manner in which we were received, but by the neat and tastey appearance of the little man’s premises and dwelling house. He is evidently a man of considerable genius, and far more energy than most of the Traders down in these parts.

His kitchen garden was a sight to behold, and although for three months he has had no rain he has an abundance of cabbages, carrots, onions, shalots, garlick, parsley, spinnach, lettuce, &c. The whole garden too is laid out in the most natty matter, showing wonderful care and perseverance. Inside his house it was equally neat, and the walls were decorated with an enormous number of island curiosities. During the slack time of the year when cocoanuts are scarce he makes very curious, but extremely chaste, ornaments out of shells, and sells them to Traders at about fifteen shillings the pair. He also makes sleeve links out of opercules, and many other ornaments of personal adornment. He gave us a great basket full of eggs, and some green food for the ship. We bade the amiable and loquacious little man good-bye, and thanked him for his kindness, and then pushed on for Tavalavola where we found the whole village waiting for us, and Charles and Monica heading the party. I was most pleased to see the happy and affectionate relations which existed between them, and the natural and unaffected way in which she came into my house, and the kind care she exhibited in the bestowal of my goods and chattels. Afterwards when we went off to the ship she came with us, and went down of her own accord to see the Bishop in the cabin. We did not stay long on board, but bidding farewell to them all we came ashore for the night. I should have liked of course to stay till morning, but they were so crowded on board I thought it was better we were out of the way. It was near midnight when we finally retired for the night, and I was very tired and glad to get to bed. The boys are so nice and friendly, and come in and out of my house so naturally, that it gives one quite a homely feeling, and when they call me “Mama” (Father) I feel quite proud of the spiritual relationship. I quite look forward to my stay here, and I hope under it God may be the means of much good.

Tuesday, September 14th.—Most beautiful morning, but the night was very cold, and I was very glad of a blanket over me. We had Prayers and school before breakfast, the scholars numbering about 50 of both sexes. I was quite astonished at the admirable way most of them read and answered, and equally struck with the diligent and painstaking manner in which the boys were teaching. The school is admirably conducted, and peculiarly well and thoroughly taught. The scholars are evidently very sharp, and one or two little boys and a very little wee girl read surprisingly well. Charles, the head teacher, is a most steady and excellent young fellow, and to him the credit of the efficiency of the school is mainly due. All the other boys however, work well and steadily with him, and I was particularly gratified to see what a helpmeet his wife Monica is to him. In the course of the day the older people were about, and I told them I wanted them to come and get instruction also, to which they consented. While I was at breakfast the French Trader called on me and brought me a most noble present of green food, for which I was deeply grateful. He was very amiable, most polite and peculiarly loquacious, and I was quite interested in listening to his broken English. He is a Parisian and was in the ‘garde mobile’ during the siege by the Prussians, which of course means that he is a Communist. He left me after a time, and I set to work to put my house in order. The boys went to ‘Tahi mamavi,’ where we have a school, which I hope we shall be able now to teach regularly. Meramaeto (Paskal) had been there living, but some trouble broke out and he had to come away in consequence. Now all is pacific again, and we hope to make another fresh and vigorous start, which I hope will be permanent. In the afternoon I went to see a Trader who had sent me a request to visit him, not having a boat of his own. His complaint was, that having a Frenchman on either side of him, and he doing a better trade than either they were jealous of him, and had threatened him with violence if he did not leave. He is a Scotchman and a very decent fellow. The Frenchmen had threatened also to lay hands on his copra, looking on him as an interloper, inasmuch as they suppose the French are about to annex the New Hebrides group. I did all I could to explain his position to the natives, and ‘Tabi’ the chief, and really a big man, said that while he dealt fairly with them he would see that he was properly protected and fairly dealt with. I told him that he and I were subjects of one Queen, and of a different nationality to the Frenchmen, and that being a steady and well-behaved and honest man he ought to help him all he could. He had a great many nuts, and a large amount of copra, and I should say he was doing very well. He does not trade with powder, or guns, or spirit, and is evidently a very temperate man. He asked me to tell the natives not to bring the coconuts on Sunday as he wanted that as a day of Rest, and he asked me if I could make it convenient to come and see him sometimes on that day, because he wished not to forget his God in the midst of his mundane pursuits. He has been a sailor all his life, and has a mate’s certificate, I think. He has only been here five weeks from Sydney, and hitherto has done very well. I got back to dinner, and then went to see David, one of our teachers, who is sick. He was very full of his child, about three years old, a perfect prodigy. He told me the child would get into a perfect frenzy if he were not allowed to go to school and Prayers, and when once or twice he has been left at home he has knelt down in their house and gone through the form of prayer by himself. He will never go without his clothes, and the only time they can get him to take them off is to bathe. Even at night he must have on a garment. His mother told me too that his first thought in the morning, even before eating, was the bell, and he would tug at her sleeve until she took him up and started for the school. The same was the case too, in the evening. They also told me of a poor girl who had died about a fortnight ago. She has been most regular at school for years past, and was far away ahead of all the others in knowledge. She never would marry because she was afraid she should be debarred from attending school. She was most anxious to be Baptized, and when she was taken ill she still longed for Baptism. She importuned Charles so on the subject that just before her death, he sprinkled her with water in the Name of the Trinity, and signed the sign of the Cross on her forehead. She died perfectly happy and at peace, and her devoted life and peaceful death have produced a great and profound impression in the village.

While talking with David, his old grandmother came in, and she is a woman of great age, and marvellous energy. She is now a great grandmother, and a bright, cheery old lady. I asked her how old she thought she was, and she said she really did not know, but she was very aged. She said that I had always told her that she “tugi vetu” (was as hard as flint) and it seemed as if she really was. She comes regularly to school, but her eyes are so dim that she can only sit and listen. Several old ladies attend school only to sit and listen, and they take great interest in coming. In the evening we had Prayers, and a very nice school afterwards.

So ends my first day, and I hope all the other days I am here may be as pleasant and as happy.

Wednesday, September 15th.—A beautiful morning but a strong Trade wind blowing. After our morning duties here we sailed down to ‘Lobaha’ to see Arudale, Didi and the school there. We pulled the boat up on the beach, no very easy work with the sand so soft. Most of the boys were down at the beach and we all went up together to the village. It was a hot, steep climb and we were very liquid when we got there. The boys brought us a plentiful supply of young coconuts and with these we quenched our thirst. I was glad to see the amiability which was manifested one towards another by our people and the Lobaha folks, for lately the relations have been somewhat strained.

It appears that not long ago, the chief wife of our Head man took offence at his scolding her, and ran away to his younger brother who lives at Lobaha. Our great man was very fond of this wife, for they had grown up together from childhood, and she had always presided over his establishment in a most devoted manner. She is most queenly in deportment, and quite one of the finest native women I have ever seen. However, she went off, and “Virclumlum” was not only incensed, but very sorely grieved. He told the boys in most pathetic words how he missed his wife, how that it seemed unbearable to do without her, how that everything seemed void and empty now that she was away. However, once away it seems she was away for good, and very soon a pig arrived and that he had to accept in lieu of her. For a long time the people here have never been to Lobaha and contrariwise the Lobaha people here. However, we have, I hope, broken the ice again, although I am particularly sorry to lose so nice a woman from the place, and I believe she has deeply repented already of her conduct and would give worlds to be back again. I was glad to see a new school in course of erection, and the old men and women told me they were only waiting for it to be finished to all coming to school. Herbert has already a nice little building at his own place, but the people say it is too far away, and any excuse is enough to keep people away from religious duties. Herbert shewed me with manifest pride, the most beautiful tool chest sent by his English “mother” (Miss Mount). He has been trying to use the tools, and I saw an attempt at some amount of straightness in the new building at which he was assisting. We stayed some time with him, talking over matters in connection with the school, &c., and then we made preparations for home. The wind was blowing strong down the coast, so that a sail was useless, and we had a heavy pull. However, the boys are very good oarsmen, and we got along famously. I anchored the boat off for the night, having use for her again to-morrow. It was a very miserable evening, the wind blowing in strong gusts, and the threatened rain falling at short intervals. We had Prayers and a very long interesting school afterwards. The boys and girls here are very sharp, and learn very rapidly, and seem to understand well what they read. There are three classes of Catechumens preparing for Baptism, adults, boys and girls, all more or less proficient. Altogether, this school is very cheering, and with such an excellent head teacher as Charles, one need not fear of its stability.

Thursday, September 16th.—After our morning duties were over here we rowed up to “Lo tahi mamavi,” and had school there with a large number of people, who were very enthusiastic to know more and to be regularly taught.

There are a nice lot of boys here, and some already know how to read. The old men I had school with, and they seemed quite delighted to say the letters one by one, and afterwards to put them together, and find out that they made Opa words. I told them as far as I could about our religion, and that I had left home, and all to come and live with them and teach them, but that Jesus Christ pitied and loved us so much that He left heaven, and His Father’s glory to come down into our world to live and die for us. They were very attentive, and asked me to come again, which I promised to do on Sunday, all being well. They gave us a handsome present of food according to native custom, and we left for home. It was raining heavily and we got very wet, but the distance was not very great. It was a most unpleasant evening, and I was cold and miserable, and I began to fear ague again. Last night was most wretched, my house was not properly finished, and the strong gusts of wind blew me almost out of bed, and brought in clouds of dust. To-day the boys have been patching up the holes, and it is more snug and comfortable.

Friday, September 17th.—Fine morning and very close and hot after the rain. After breakfast I received a visit from an English Trader, who lives about two miles from me. Poor fellow, in my honour he had put on a coat, and he was literally running with perspiration when he reached my house, and he did not succeed in getting cool again before he left although he stayed some time. He seems to be doing a very fair trade here in copra, and although he has not been long on the island, he has already several tons of the dried coconut (copra). After he left I was attacked with a good-for-nothing fit and did nothing all day. In the evening I was very queer, and thought I was going to have rheumatism, my legs were so cold and my limbs generally so frail. However I managed Evensong and school, and was not sorry to be ready early for bed.

Saturday, September 18th.—General holiday here. The boys wished me to take them to Vuinago, fishing, to which I rashly consented. It was a perfectly windless day and, oh! so hot. We had a long weary pull up, but were very successful when we got there, and came home late in the evening with about eighty fish. I was very glad to be able to send ten to the French Trader, as a return for all his many kindnesses to me, the rest were divided out to different great people, and about thirty were kept for to-morrow’s dinner. I was very glad the boys did not forget the women in their distribution. I had a nice fish for my own tea, a kind of mackarel. Very soon after dinner it was Prayer time, and I am now preparing for bed being very tired, sunburnt, and sleepy.

The boys are having great fun over the way, and it is evident the outing has not had much ill effect on their spirits.

Sunday, September 19th.—Yesterday was perfectly calm and cloudless, and to-day again it is blowing very hard, with rain squalls at intervals. We began the day with school, and then after an interval for breakfast we had Mattins with a fair congregation. The females are very enthusiastic and attend very regularly, and the same applies to the boys, but the older men are very callous. There are one or two who never miss, but the majority are much more concerned with the affairs of this world, than about the one thing needful. There are one or two old fellows who are very regular, and who seem really to like being taught, but most of the men prefer the free and careless life to which they have always been accustomed. There are many who feel the beauty of Christianity, but it is so hard to them to practise it. They think it is all right for boys and women, but they themselves cannot stand the bother and burden it entails.

After Prayers we went up to “Tahi mamavi” and found the whole population awaiting us. We divided them into five sets, two of boys, one of youths, and two of old men. Charles and I taught the old men, and found them very attentive. Walter Tarigisibue addressed the youths who seemed appreciative, and Paschal and Peter taught the boys who were said to learn very quickly. They asked us to fix a day for coming again, and said they should expect us every Sunday. I had been feeling sick and queer all day, and coming home was violently sick in the boat. I got home as quickly as possible, but the sickness continued, accompanied by ague, and afterwards strong fever headache, and then strong perspiration, and this morning, (Monday) convalescence.

However, I am very washed out and good for nothing, and shall rest at home. I am disappointed however, for I meant to have gone to the other side of the island in the boat, and had made all my preparations. Now I must wait a bit.

Tuesday, September 21st.—Reasonably convalescent again, but weak and not fit for much. It was a most unpleasant day however, with fitful squalls of rain and wind, and I could not have gone far even if I had wanted. The boys were busy planting “Virelumlum’s” yam garden, and were kept hard at work all day. I was not surprised, for I previously knew it to be the custom here for the chief’s wives to prepare his food in the gamal. Generally speaking, women are not admitted within these edifices, and more especially here, but to-day Virelumlum’s wives, three or four in number, were busy with the men getting ready the evening meal. I asked them where they were going to eat themselves, and they said with some naïvete, “Oh! that is a secondary matter, we have to get our masters’ dinner ready and shift for ourselves as best we may.” It would be impossible for them to eat any food cooked in the gamal, and so religiously have they been brought up under this restriction, that they would probably sooner die of hunger than attempt to appease their appetites with what to them is sacred food, or at least forbidden, and they are more faithful to the laws of men, than was Eve to the law of God. And, I suppose as spiritual death was the judgment on Eve’s disobedience, so would physical death be the penalty in case of their transgression. Human life is not more highly valued here than it is in Ireland, and a woman’s life is not much accounted of, and death is the common penalty for very trivial offences. Here it is universally averred that woman is at the root of all the evil that transpires, and poor things, they are too often the victims where the men go scott free. Here the females are much in excess of the males, and naturally polygamy is widely practised. The big men however, get the lion’s share, and it is no uncommon thing to find a troop of women in the households of the chiefs, varying from ten to fifty or even one hundred. All no doubt are not wives, but slaves and beasts of burden, and these big guns do nothing themselves but impose all the duties of the house and garden on their women. I do not think I am maligning the Opa men when I say that I look upon them as hideously lazy, but of course that results in large measure from their imposing their own natural duties on others, whom they find ready or obliged to do it for them. It is quite different at Maewo, where monogamy now mostly obtains, and where the men take an active and a man’s share in all out door employments. However Virelumlum was very active bustling about among his women, and I saw him shouldering off a big burden of yams, following up the rear of a troop of preceding females.

Here time seems of no importance and no account, and it wearies me sometimes to see people squatting about for hours at a time, whistling or otherwise killing time. It is an ennervating climate no doubt, but that is no excuse for laziness in people who have been born and brought up in the country. I often urge laggards and idlers, who make my house a convenient lounge, to go to work and plant their fences, but as nothing can be done out of due course, what was, is, and ever must be the same.

In the evening there was a great feast spread for the workers, and the day finished like all days here, with Evensong and school. This little village is a bright spot in the surrounding darkness, and I trust in time its influence for good will be more widely felt than even now. The attendants at the school seem wonderfully staunch, and the teachers very earnest, and I pray God that their vigorous instruction may not be lost on the heathen people around them. But there is the same callousness attending religious practice as about everything else here, and although they see the beauty and the benefit of Christianity, the effort is too great to reduce its blessed precepts to daily practice.

Wednesday, September 22nd.—By-and-bye I shall have as much trouble with my white flock, as with the black. The white Traders have got some feud one against the other because of difference of nationality, and I had to listen again to accusations from an Englishman against a Frenchman, as to plots against his life and property. Poor man, he is new to the business, is doing well, and fancies that he is taking the bread out of the Frenchmen’s mouths, but there is room for all. I found he was not only filled with gloomy fears himself, but had imbued the chief under whom he lives with warlike intentions also, and I had to put a veto upon any resort to open violence. I told the chief “Tabi,” that he must keep his hands from all white men, and if he had any complaints to make, to make them in the proper quarter, and not take the law into his own hands. He must learn the sacredness of human life, and not rush to bow and arrow and club for every fancied affront or grievance. As long as I was here I would do my best to see that peace and harmony reigned among whites and blacks, but I would countenance no violence or bloodshed. After this I went to the Frenchman at Lan̈an̈qa, and he seemed very surprised to think that he was accused of any ill feeling, and judging from his good nature I should imagine his surprise was genuine. However, I said it was very hard if a few white men living on so large an island, could not live at peace, even if their nationalities were various, and if they could not agree among themselves, what could be expected of the natives? I quite like the natty little man, and certainly he is the best colonist I have ever seen down here. He is a most handy man and always employed, and as far as industry goes, he sets the natives a very excellent example. The neatness of his house and surroundings too, ought to have a good effect.

The fine day turned into a most dirty, rough, unpleasant evening, and we went to Prayers in a perfect downpour of rain. After Church there were great searchings of heart among the elders, and I publicly announced that I wanted the names of those who wished for Baptism. To the surprise of everybody, and to the delight of not a few, four women stood up and said almost simultaneously “Inew” (I). These quiet, demure creatures, generally so terribly afraid of the men, and always so shy in public, must have been influenced by a stronger Power than any they had hitherto known to make this public profession, and it produced no small sensation on all present. Two men also said they wished to be admitted to the Sacred Rite, and I hope they will soon be followed by many more. Charles Tariqatu’s influence here is great, and the fruits of his thorough and earnest teaching are beginning to be felt. He is so thorough and good himself, that his example and influence have all the more effect. There will be about twenty to be baptized on Sunday, the nucleus I trust, of a good Christian population hereafter.

Thursday, September 23rd.—A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day. Fortunately there was a great festivity here, and I was not left without something to do all day. I trust I did not spend quite an unprofitable time. I begin to see distinct light through my work here now, and I can see how the seed sown through long years is at last beginning to bear fruit. I am eminently satisfied with the work of the boys here, and I can see that Charles’s influence pervades everything. One man to-day, who never has taken much interest in our teaching, came to ask me if Martin Tan̈abei might not come back from Norfolk Island, and live with him and his people as teacher. Another told me that my words to him of former years have quite changed the course of his life, and no doubt he is as different as possible to what he formerly was. I was under engagement to go to Tahimamavi, but when we were launching the boat the rain came down in such torrents that I reluctantly turned back. The evening was as bad as the day, and most uncomfortable it was in my leaking, cold house. We had Evensong with a good congregation, but a great gust of wind put out the principal lamp in the very middle of the service, and made it somewhat dismal.

Friday, September 24th.—Fine bright morning and a very hot day. Having failed to go to “Tahimamavi” yesterday I resolved to go instead this morning. We had a hot, but a most pleasant row up the coast about three miles, and found the people awaiting our arrival. They had been disappointed that we did not come yesterday, but supposed that the rain was the occasion of our failing in our promise. Such a nice number of bright boys assembled for school, and a great many grown-up people. The boys were divided into two classes, and two of the boys taught them their letters. The older men I undertook to teach myself with the help of Peter. I made a few remarks at first and then told Peter to say a few words. I was quite unprepared for what followed. It is not often I have seen such an effect on a native audience, and his flow of natural eloquence from beginning to end quite held the men enchained. With a great deal of energy, and a vast amount of earnestness, he went into the thick of his subject, and left an impression which I feel sure must, under God, have a good effect. At the end of his remarks he said very modestly, “You may perhaps think it presumptuous in me to stand here in your presence and speak like this, you who are old enough to be my fathers, and so high in rank all of you as to look upon me as a mere nonentity, and indeed I am amazed at my own audacity. But I speak about things of so momentous import that I take the chance of your displeasure, and submit myself to whatever verdict you may choose to return. Were I only concerned about things which belong to our heathen state, I should take the place of a humble listener and you should do the talking, but here all is different, for out of the abundance of the heart the mouth must speak, and that heart and mouth, thank God, are mine.” There was not even an assent of approval, all were so impressed with the message delivered so eloquently by a mere boy. I said at the end, after a long pause, for I did not like to break the spell which seemed to hold them all, “Our son has spoken good words to you which I hope you will not soon forget.” And they all said, “Who can forget them?” I was also much pleased with the way the boys had got on with their reading after so few lessons, and altogether I felt that a “great door and effectual had been opened here,” for which I was most thankful to Almighty God. Now it remains but to put a good teacher there, and I think a wide harvest may by God’s blessing be soon gathered in. We came back with a fair wind in the afternoon, and in the evening again we had torrents of rain. However, we had our full complement at Prayers, and a very nice time afterwards.

Saturday, September 25th.—I had intended to-day to have gone to Walurigi, but it set in to a wet day, and I was obliged to stay at home. However, I had a succession of visitors, and among them some Bushmen from a long way inland. The boys told me some odd stories about them, how ignorant they formerly were and what strange things they did in consequence. When they first came down to the sea they fancied it was hungry, because the surf came rolling in, as they said, “mouth wide open.” They therefore gave it food to eat. Knowing only the taro root, when first getting possession of a yam, they fancied it was firewood and put into the fire. Some many years ago they came down here in quest of a pig, and while waiting in the gamal their eyes caught sight of a tin with the picture of a lobster outside. Thinking this was something very wonderful they stole it, and marched off homewards with it instead of their pig. Arriving at their village home the chief made a great feast for it, and placed it in the midst of the village dancing ground, and went through the various ceremonies as if it were a pig in verity. The ceremonies over, the chief advanced to the tin, and with his foot, squashed up the tin as if he was treading the life of a pig out, with the inevitable result that he almost cut his foot off. Now-a-days of course they are more enlightened, and the men who were here to-day I found very amiable and intelligent. All “salt water” natives despise Bushmen, and they have always stories to tell of them. There is somehow a natural feud existing between them, but the agression I must say, comes generally from the Bushmen. They do, certainly, very unaccountable things, but they are always forgiven, and their conduct explained by saying, “Oh, they are only Bushmen,” or as they say here “(Taute).” A small vessel passed here in the afternoon, and anchored off M. Moussu’s place “Ian̈an̈qa.” In the evening there was the greatest excitement, the boys returning from fishing saw a boat under sail coming down the coast, and the general idea was that it was Mr. Brittain. I was led into the swim, and made active preparations for his reception, but he never turned up, the sail belonged to some other boat.

Heavy rain and strong wind squalls again in the evening.

Sunday, September 26th.—A day which will ever be memorable to me, here at Tavolavola. To-day I Baptized twenty-five people, and it has been indeed a day of great spiritual enjoyment to me. Before I was up in the very early morning, I heard boys in the school house reading their baptismal service over, and all through the day there are some who have never had their books out of their hands. The teachers have done their part most admirably, and I thank God for such earnest children. We had school before breakfast, and a most excellent school too. I went from class to class leaving A. P. Huqe to discourse the older men. The boys, nothing daunted by my presence, kept their instruction going, which was generally very thorough and good. The earnestness of all was quite remarkable. After school and breakfast we had Morning Prayers, a nice hearty service, and after that we started by boat for “Tahimamavi.” Here we found the people awaiting us, and soon we were assembled for school. Charles gave the old men a very good and eloquent address, and three other classes were provided for. On our way home we stopped for a few minutes to learn the news from the schooner at anchor, but they had none except that the French troops were still at Port Sandwich, and did not intend to move at present, and moreover, that the Mail Steamer had a contract to come as far North as that Port. This does not look like clearing out of the group, and the Captain told me they had not the least intention of moving at present. Before long we shall know the fate of these islands, but I sincerely trust they may not fall into the hands of the French. In the afternoon I was most pleased to see the teachers selecting boys and youths, more especially connected with them by ties of kindred, and taking them for a walk and serious talk, as is the custom at Norfolk Island. Everyone was so filled with enthusiasm that the chief himself sent to say he wished to be Baptized, but inasmuch as he has already four or five wives, and contemplates taking more, I could not listen to his petition for a moment. To put away his wives would lower him in rank at once, and in the choice between God and Mammon, he felt the difficulty of putting away any of his women, and I was obliged to leave him with his god Mammon.

In the early evening we decorated the Font, and when the building was lit up at night with lots of candles, it looked quite nice. The service was quite one of the most stirring I have ever taken part in, and the ready responses one by one, of men and women, produced a great effect on every one present. The women, generally like poor frightened, startled creatures, answered out marvellously, with a vigour and earnestness, such as no one was prepared for. The ceremony of Baptizing twenty-five people took some time, but no one seemed fatigued, so interested were they in what was going on. Among the number Baptized were a blind man, and a blind woman, but they, like the rest, were wonderfully self-possessed. Poor Diu, whom I called Kate, after Miss Lodge, who had nursed her so faithfully at Norfolk Island, was perfectly ecstatic in her delight, and seemed endued with special strength, having risen from a bed of sickness on purpose to be present.

I gave a short address afterwards, and was followed by Charles, who spoke well to the subject, and in very good taste considering the number of outsiders present.

We finished with the Nunc Dimittis, a fitting conclusion to a most beautiful service.

Monday, September 27th.—A most beautiful day, and a whole holiday. I told the scholars in the morning that I wished to see only smiling and happy faces all day, and to hear of nothing but joy and gladness because of the occasion of the holiday, viz., to celebrate the spiritual birthday of twenty-five brothers and sisters. Food in large quantities was provided, and we managed to secure two pigs for the feast. I think it was the brightest and happiest day I have ever known here, and our festivities were shared in by a number of neighbours. Contrary to strict custom here, the women and girls of the school prepared the food under the trees on the beach, the boys chopping the wood and doing the heavy work. The scene was a very animated one, and all seemed to be in the very best of tempers. In the evening the ovens were opened, and the distribution of the food was made. Unfortunately I was not very well myself, but that did not interfere very much with the rest. In the cool of the evening the boys played a number of their native games, very pretty and very picturesque, with a pretty song to each. When darkness closed in we had Evensong, and then the happy day was brought to an end.

Tuesday, September 28th.—This morning after our duties here, we started for a long voyage to “Vagebeo,” which means something like “down West.” “Beo” is the word used there for “down,” while ours here is “Hivo.” “Vage” is a particle put before the name of a place with a sense of motion towards the place, thus when we are going to Maewo we are here going “vage Maewo,” or Araga “vage Raga,” or Marino “vage Marino,” and so when we are going to the Beo people we are going “Vage Beo.” We call the people of those parts “Meraibeo.” They, on the other hand, term these parts “Taulu,” “up East,” and when coming here they say they are going “Vageulu,” because our word for “up” here is “Ulu.” We here are to them “Natiulu.”

We had a light, fair wind down, and did the journey in good time. We hauled up our boat at a place called “Duidui,” where a Mr. Wilber, commonly called “Jim” by white traders, and by the natives, “Timi,” lives.

He came down to welcome us, and extended his hospitality to me as long as I chose to stay. I was not sorry to accept it, and I made his residence the basis of my operations. He has been here for many years, and is well known and very much liked by the natives. He does a very extensive business there in copra (the dried coconut), &c., and deals very kindly, liberally, and most honourably with the people. He has very nice premises there, and a large establishment. He got us refreshments served as soon as we arrived, and after resting for a time he went with me to the village of the great man of those parts “An̈ga,” or as the Traders call him, “anchor.” I knew him formerly as a very large and powerful man, but long sickness has reduced him to a terrible and pitiable state of weakness and leanness. He asked me to come and settle in those parts and start a school for his people. The natives there are very numerous and extremely amiable, and I feel sure a great deal might be done if I could see my way to settling there. A fine young fellow, his son, was very friendly, and also asked me to come and teach them. I said I would see what I could do if they would spare me some boys to go to Norfolk Island to be taught. This they said they would do, as they were tired of the Labour ships. We got back, and Mr. Wilber indulged us in a most sumptuous repast. The boys, my boat’s crew, being tired, we had Prayers early, and they retired for the night in very comfortable quarters provided for them. We, Mr. Wilber, another white man and myself, sat talking till far on into the night, and when I retired it was to the ample recesses of a large four poster, with sheets and other delights and comforts of civilization. I felt I had turned my host out of his bed, but he would insist on my sleeping where he had put me, and I acquiesced. The next morning, Wednesday, 29th September, it was very hot and calm, and I determined not to start till the afternoon. After a sumptuous lunch I went to another great man’s village, and received a warm welcome. There they told me that they would build me a schoolhouse and give me boys, and would sell their land to no one else if I would come there and occupy it. Altogether the cry from Macedonia to come over and help them was very cheering, and I must try what I can do for them.

At the end of this period of my work, it is pleasant and thankworthy to find the Morian’s land stretching out her hands unto God. We started soon after I got back for “home,” and had a long, toilsome journey up. However, the boat’s crew were very plucky and merry, and didn’t seem much to mind as the boat’s head was towards Tavolavola. I myself was very seasick in the smooth water, and very soon was in the shivering fit of the ague. I made as good a bed as possible in the boat, and lay down till I got here. On arrival I found Mr. Brittain and party here, and felt sorry for him that I was such a sorry host. I certainly felt cheered by his society, and we sat quite late talking about matters of mutual interest.

Thursday, September 30th.—After a night of fever and strong perspiration I got up this morning feeling fairly refreshed, and a good deal better, but weak and not fit for much. Mr. Brittain and his party went to Lobaha by boat, but I stayed at home to rest. In the afternoon we walked up to M. Moussu’s place, and he showed us with great pride his garden and poultry yard, and all the other many things which his ingenuity devised, and his cunning hand has fashioned. He gave a splendid quantity of green food, which we afterwards enjoyed for dinner. Prayers concluded the public part of the day, and Mr. B. and myself sat till late talking here in the quiet of a most pacific and mild evening.

Friday, October 1st.—Fine day. After our morning duties here were over, Mr. Brittain and I went up to Tahimamavi, and stayed some time with the kind-hearted people.

Before leaving, Mr. Brittain bought a number of native Opa mats, which are much treasured at his station at Araga. The Opa people are great hands at mat weaving, and are possessors of a greater quantity and variety than any natives I know. Since the introduction of European calico the manufacture has somewhat diminished. However, when it comes to getting so much tobacco, a great many still turn up, and for the labour it must be to make them, the price is perhaps inadequate except they get all they ask.

We came home in the very hot sun, and Mr. Brittain sat down to dinner alone, I myself being too sick to join him. All the evening I was fit for nothing, and lay down all the time. I did not get up for church, and only finally left my bed to go back to it again for the night. I felt miserably shabby in my position as host to treat my guest so, but I could not help it.

Saturday, October 2nd.—Dull threatening morning and squally. Mr. Brittain and party decided to go although we tried to detain them. The day, however, cleared, and as they did not return we concluded that they had stood across for Maewo. I was feeling weak and miserable when the kind little Frenchman, M. Moussu, appeared to take me away to have lunch with him. I had agreed to partake of his hospitality on this day, but had quite forgotten all about it. However, my seediness was excuse enough for my forgetfulness, and here he was with his boat to take me off. He is a first rate cook, and treated me to such a display of luxuries as I have never before seen in these parts. The choicest soup, &c., &c., and later on in the feast a most excellent dish of beche de mer. This I liked very much, and should fancy it was very nourishing. He complained of my want of appetite, and J. was sorry I had not more when so many good things were there to be eaten. He brought me back again in his boat, and I felt pretty well all the evening. We had Prayers, and singing practice afterwards, preparatory to Sunday. The evening was fine, and I trust Mr. Brittain and party are well on their homeward way. I wished him to stay till Monday, but he was anxious to get back for Sunday.

Sunday, October 3rd.—Last night I fancied A. P. Huqe was at the point of death. To-day I felt very ill myself, and have been fit for very little all day. I managed to get through my Sunday duties here, however, and Charles, Mera, and some others went to Tahimamavi, where they had the usual school. I feel very comforted at the earnest manner with which these good people are stretching out their hands at last unto God. I pray that His Spirit may descend upon them in ample measure, that they may continue as earnest to the end as they have now begun to be. I trust, too, the zeal and perseverance of the boys may keep up, so that the teaching may be regularly carried on, and the Word of God become a savour of life unto life.

At present they are very earnest and even indefatigable, but I am somewhat afraid lest white supervision may have something to do with this, and when I am away the present enthusiasm may die down, and things be allowed to go on as they were before.

Would to God I had a few more teachers like Charles Tariqatu, a man in whom truly the Spirit of God is, the most earnest, humble, patient, God-fearing, Gospel-loving youth Opa has ever known. I can only commit the matter to God, and He will provide as seemeth Him best.

In the evening I was very sick and could eat no dinner, and went to bed with ague. Could not go to Church, and Charles took the service and preached.

Monday, October 4th.—Not very well. I had promised, if well enough, to go to Lobaha to-day, but I had to put off my journey. It was a fine day with a strong Trade wind blowing. In the evening A. P. Huqe was very ill, and I began to be quite alarmed about him. However, we applied hot flannels, which relieved the pain and the vomitting. When he was quieted a little, we removed him to the chief’s house, where he was quiet and comfortable. Some of the boys sat with him, but before I went to bed he was decidedly better, but painfully weak. The only thing I could give him was arrowroot and brandy, which fortunately he liked, and it did him good. I forgot my own ailments in my anxiety for him, and I went to bed aguish and shivering.

Tuesday, October 5th.—We had got through our morning duties, and I had already secured my boat’s crew, and were on the point of starting for Lobaha, when, “Sail oh!” was cried, and there was the veritable Southern Cross close at hand. It was not long before she was at anchor, and we were rowing off to her. I saw the Bishop and Mr. Palmer on board from some distance off, and when we got alongside, the first question I asked was of course about the Norfolk Island news, which was good. When I got over the side of the ship and had greeted the Bishop and all, I almost fell overboard again with astonishment, for there was Mrs. Selwyn in proporia persona, and I could hardly believe my eyes. I was, as they say, perfectly “flabergastered,” and could only shake her by the hand without saying a word, so surprised was I. Yet I was most glad to see her, and she makes quite a new light and life to our ship-board life. Having all my things in the boat, I did not go in again ashore, but the Bishop kindly rowed in to bring off my party who were going to Maewo. When I had settled down a little, and got over my surprise at seeing Mrs. Selwyn, I devoured my home letters, which were very numerous and most welcome. Thank God, all were well and prosperous at Norfolk Island.

One begins a new life now with good news, and a great slice of home on board in the beloved presence of our Bishop’s wife, and the past is forgotten in the present. When the Bishop came off, we got away under steam for Maewo. We had a quick passage over, and were at anchor about 8.30 p.m. It was a glorious evening with a nice bright moon overhead, and the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn went for a row in the quiet of the night. In due course, we retired, but I found it very hot and stuffy after the cool night air ashore.

Wednesday, October 6th.—On board the Southern Cross. The tide did not serve till nearly noon, and then the watering began. I took no part, because I was not very well, and I had to get my things together preparatory to going ashore. In the afternoon the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn went ashore for a scramble, and her enthusiasm when she came off was quite refreshing and most charming to see and hear. The watering, too, was finished, and I was to have gone ashore, but I stayed for another night on board, intending to start very early the next morning. However, I was not very well, and the Bishop kindly postponed the time of sailing, so that the vessel did not leave till after breakfast on

Thursday, October 7th.—Mrs. Selwyn kindly came in with the Bishop to see the last of me, and A. P. Huqe and myself sat some time after our farewells had been said, deliberating the stupendous undertaking of getting to Tanrig. We were both much refreshed by our stay on board, and quite ready for our stay on shore again. I shall certainly not want for medical comforts and dainties, or even medicines, for the Bishop was kindness itself in lading me with one good thing after another, until my paraphernalia of travel have increased to the no small consternation of my bearers. When the vessel was well away we made our start, and with the expenditure of most of our strength, and certainly of all our moisture, we got at length to the top of the first hill. Then it was all plain sailing, and we got to Ruosi, where we rested and bathed. In that refreshing water I seemed to have left all my ailments and distresses, and I was quite another being when I started again for Tanrig. Hither we arrived in due course, and Huqe, too, seemed quite like another being. It is so nice getting back here again, with the cool invigorating air and the cheery welcoming faces all so pleasant. I miss Arthur, though, very much, and now that Patrick has gone in the ship, the place is almost devoid of teachers, ourselves excepted. The first evening ashore was fine, and the moon shone out brightly as we were coming from Prayers.

Friday, October 8th.—It rained very heavily during the night, and this morning and all day it blew very hard, with heavy rain squalls at intervals. I did not go out all day, and indeed, I had enough to keep me at home. The people were away busy with their gardens, and the women at home preparing the food for the men. I had almost interminable visits from one and another, during the day, to see the pictures which I had taken of the place, and which Dr. Codrington has printed and sent down to me. They were quite charmed with them, and were much more clever in finding out faces and details, than ever I expected they would be. The day drew rapidly to a close, and the evening was fairly pleasant, but somewhat cold and damp. We had a fair attendance at evening school, and I gave them an address instead of school.

Saturday, October 9th.—A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day. The rain poured down, and the village looked as if it were going to be flooded. It kept on, too, without intermission almost the whole day, and I could not stir out of doors. However, I had plenty of occupation, and the time passed rapidly. It cleared slightly towards evening, and it was fine overhead for Evensong. Nothing seems to keep these hardy people indoors, and most of them have been paddling about all day in their taro gardens, utterly regardless of the state of the elements. In spite of all inconveniences we had quite a large evening congregation, and few seemed the worse in any way for the unpleasant day. It was a cold, raw evening, and I am not sorry that bed-time is so near.

Sunday, October 10th.—The day somewhat finer overhead, but still very squally and boisterous. As soon as I was up and dressed we had morning school, with a large and general attendance. The first two classes are supposed to say their Sunday Collect at this school, and answer questions on it. The school begins with a Hymn and Prayer, and finishes with the Lord’s Prayer and the Grace. The third class learn the Church Catechism, and the remainder of the school read from a small manual containing the first seven chapters of S. Matthew’s Gospel. The school lasts about an hour. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer, a very nice service, and I Baptized the infant son of Thomas and Lily by name and special request—Penny. A. P. Huqe, Harry, and Agnes stood sponsors. The Font was very tastefully and prettily decorated by Arthur, and the service was very solemn.

After Matins I assembled the Catechumens for instruction, and I told them that I wished everyone present fully to make up his or her mind to the dignity, the solemnity, and responsibility of what they were undertaking. They are the last unbaptized inhabitants of Tanrig, and of their own accord have pressed for Baptism. They number over twenty, and seem very much in earnest, especially the older men and women. It is most gratifying to me, and a matter for which I cannot sufficiently thank God, that just at the end of this era of my missionary life, I should see such zeal and earnestness exhibited by the people among whom I have worked so long, and apparently with so little result. I shall leave behind me here, please God, an entirely Christian village, in profession at least, and I trust in reality also. There are one or two I wanted to leave out, but they seem so anxious to be Baptized, that I leave their future with God and the blessing of His spirit, and accede to their request. We have here now, all the organizations of a Christian community, a good school, an excellent Church, and a zealous congregation. Surely one can labour on steadfast and unmoveable, seeing that one’s labour is not in vain in the Lord. At other stations also, people are crying out for Baptism, and before I leave, please God, I shall admit many into the Fold of Christ’s Flock.

It was too wet to get about during the afternoon, but we had our usual social meal in the school-house, and in due course, Evensong. This was one of the heartiest and most inspiriting services I have ever known here, and the congregation felt the same, the singing, the responses and all, went with a swing and harmony which shewed that the people’s hearts were in it. I gave a discourse on the Gospel for the day, the story of the widow’s son at Nain, and likened them to the young man, and Christ coming and touching the bier and saying stop! to the powers of evil who were carrying them, dead in trespasses and sins, out to their burial. The young man sat up and began to speak, and our first act, when delivered from the wrath to come, should be to sit up and speak and declare God’s praises for all He has done for us in His dear Son our Saviour. We had singing afterwards, and then dispersed for the night. A great many of the congregation lingered outside, to wish me good-night. Thank God for these real days, how different to the old heathen times, when the people were still lying in the darkness and shadow of death. God grant that they may know Him and the power of His resurrection, and be filled with His fulness and grace.

Monday, October 11th, was much finer, and the sun shone out in rich splendour. The people at this time of the year are very busy planting their yam gardens, and every day they are at work from morning until night. The men do the toiling part, the women the cooking. They work in parties, and many hands make light work. The harmonium being out of order I stayed to try and mend it. I was interrupted in the midst of my work by visitors from Tasmouri and Tasmate, and retired to my house to talk with them. When they left I finished my job, and was far more successful than ever I dared to hope. The bellows had burst, and the wind escaped in such quantities that it was hard to get any music at all out of the instrument. I could only make a patch up affair of it, but it was so far successful that a volume of sound was emitted such as I have never heard from it before, and the addition to the singing in the evening was very marked. I had intended to have made an excursion during the day, but it was too late when I had finished, and I had to content myself at home. After Evensong I took the Catechumens for a lesson, and afterwards joined my own class in the school previous to the Roll Call. The evening was fine, but blustery and raw, and I fancy the people were tired, for there was quietness soon after school.

Tuesday, October 12th.—Very rough, squally morning and a terribly windy night. Sometimes I fancied I was going to be blown over altogether in my frail native hut. However, these little tenements stand a great deal, and here I am safe and sound at the beginning of a new day.

After early Morning Prayer we had our usual school, and breakfast followed. I have no refreshment before this meal, and sometimes I feel a little famished, but am generally ready for the breakfast when it comes. It is not a very sumptuous meal at the best of times, plain rice and a cup of coffee, but it does very well, and stops the craving of the appetite as well as anything else. The strange thing is that at home I scarcely ever touch rice, having a positive aversion to it, but here I make my breakfast on it nine mornings out of ten.

After breakfast I had school with a very earnest Candidate for Baptism who comes from Mandurvat, and wished for special instruction. I hope I managed to explain to him any difficulties he has experienced in the nature and meaning of the service. When he was dismissed I wended my way with some of the boys to Ruosi, where I bathed and washed my clothes. I do not know what it was, but when I got home I was quite exhausted, and somehow I don’t feel as strong as I did at the beginning of the season. We had very hearty Evensong, and a nice class with the Catechumens, who, I think, are very much in earnest, especially the older men. There are about twenty in this class, the last remnant of the heathen population. With their Baptism, Tanrig will cease to have any remains of heathenism, and in name at least will be able to call itself Christian. The usual school was held, and the first two classes were engaged in solving the mysteries of simple addition, one of the girls succeeding in doing a six line sum without a fault. This same girl, Emily by name, is rather a creditable production for this out of the world place. She reads well, answers well, and writes well, besides being quite an adept at figures. A couple of years at Norfolk Island would make a very useful woman of her. There are seven others in her class who all are very fair scholars, and take their turn at teaching.

Wednesday, October 13th.—Very fine morning and very warm. After our morning duties were over there was soon a dead silence over the village, the people all going off to their several occupations in their gardens. I busied myself, and got very hot over a little simple carpentering—but oh! the tools, they were so blunt and so rusty. However, I managed to do fairly well what I wanted to do, viz. to enlarge the Communion table, and generally to give a more Churchy appearance to the East end of our Church. I proposed to myself a bathe after my labours were over, but I was too exhausted, and stayed at home in preference. However, the shades of evening soon stole on, and my little cooks came to get my dinner, which, frugal as it was, I enjoyed with the best of sauce—hunger. The evening was calm and fine, and I sat outside my house and enjoyed myself with a book. In the evening they came to tell me of the death of a poor heathen woman who has lately come here, and has been for years past a confirmed invalid. Poor thing! the women came back in the evening to find her cold and stiff in death, without a soul near her to say a word of comfort or to close her eyes in dying. She was buried in the moonlight, and her memory consigned to oblivion with her body. Her sad story afforded me a fitting text for the Catechumens afterwards, which I trust was not unproductive of seasonable lessons and wholesome and solemn warnings. Our singing school subsequently was very nice, after which everyone seemed glad to turn in for the night.

Thursday, October 14th.—Fine bright morning, and a most beautiful day with a strong Trade wind blowing. After our morning duties I was left alone, the people being away almost at once to their gardens. They work very hard at this season, and the men do the heaviest part of the labour. At present they are engaged in fence making, usually here with bamboos, and very neatly they make them. It is very hot, fatiguing work for them in the broiling sun, but I suppose habit has so far become second nature with them, that they don’t seem to notice the heat or mind a little extra perspiration. The cool waters of the river always afford a grateful and refreshing anticipation when the work is once over.

I amused myself with making a Cross to surmount the Communion table, and give a little more of a sacred nature to the Chancel of the Church. With my poor tools and limited necessaries at my disposal I flattered myself that I had done fairly well, and I afterwards attempted a picture gallery on the walls of my house, which has attracted all the boys in the village this evening, and they have taken more interest in these pictures than ever I have seen them before display. The launching of a life boat, and the English Bishops have been the chief attractions, and everyone, I think, has counted over the Bishops dozens of times. There being no one here in the afternoon I went alone to the river and enjoyed a refreshing bath. This evening it is blowing heavily, but there is a good moon and it is fine overhead. Instruction to the Catechumens, and the evening school finished a nice day.

Friday, October 15th.—After our morning duties here and breakfast I started with a party of four for Tasmouri. It had rained a little during the night, and the bush was still wet this morning. The sun, however, shone out in Tropical brilliancy, and travelling was very unpleasant. The hottest time is just after a shower, and to-day proved no exception to the native idea on the subject. I don’t know when I have felt so hot and disinclined for exertion. However, the journey had to be made, and on I went somewhat mechanically. We arrived in due course at a rippling brook which the natives call “Na Marou,” and here we refreshed ourselves with its cooling waters and quaffed away our thirst. We rested, too, awhile, and then shouldering our impedimenta on we trudged again. The dense bush afforded a grateful shade generally, but every now and then we came out into the open glade, and we felt by experience for how much we were indebted to the shelter from the sun’s rays. Our next resting place was “Qaruqatu,” and then we were in a very liquid condition, and could gladly have lain down and given up further exertion for the day, but we were not half-way to our destination yet, and when we had cooled a bit we moved on to the village, where we found the “Uta” natives awaiting our arrival. They had prepared food for us and procured a good supply of coconuts, and we stopped for some time with them. However, the day was hastening on to-night, and we were driven to move on when we would willingly have sat on in idleness and inactivity. We started again for “Vanua garaqa” where the school house is, and there I found my friend and teacher “Takele,” whom I was going to Baptize on Sunday, and with whom I was anxious to have some previous conversation. He is a good man, and a staunch, and “Uta” owes him a great deal for his steadfast and consistent upholding of the Truth, and his fearless and bold protestations against evil. He had also food and coconuts ready for us, and I am afraid I went to sleep for a while, as the boys were refreshing the inner man. However, we were not yet at our journey’s end, and shouldering our traps, on we went again.

After leaving Uta there is a very steep descent, really down the face of the cliff, Tasmouri being on the other side of the island to windward. The road, however, is good, if somewhat precipitous, and my poor long shins ached again before I got to the bottom. Yet we did get to the bottom, and there we found a most lovely natural bathing place, the delight and comfort of which we were not long in testing. One can imagine how refreshing it must inevitably be to get off one’s dripping garments, and get under a cool and delicious shower-bath. I felt much more “fit” when I got on my walking garments again and prepared for another advance towards Tasmouri, which I must say has never seemed so far and the journey towards it so fatiguing. We found Samuel and the Tasmouri people waiting from the village, and of course had food and drink in readiness for us. It was very cool and nice there, and being now near our destination we were not in a great hurry to move. Tasmouri, however, was reached towards evening, but oh! how hot the place is! a change of raiment scarcely mended matters, and I was soon almost as liquid as before. My evening meal made matters worse, and didn’t I long for a little grateful coolness? However, that seems an unknown quantity, and I gave up the idea of discovering it more here than anywhere else. Evensong followed in due course, and afterwards I had the Catechumen class for a short instruction. When these duties were over I was fit for bed, and this is the reason of the shortness and scantiness of my account of this day.

Saturday, October 16th.—At Tasmouri. Most beautiful morning, but oh! so hot. Within doors it was absolutely unbearable, and I was glad when the people proposed to go to the seaside. The place selected was “Ron̈onawo,” and there it was bearably cool. A “Guardian” supplied me with companionship, and it proved to be so pleasant there that we spent most of the day, the boys bathing, fishing, and generally enjoying life, and I reading and seeking new names for the Baptismal Candidates. The heat again in the evening when we came home was very oppressive, and so great had it been in the house during the day that my candle I found all melted and doubled down in the candlestick.

My dinner did not mend matters, but rather made the heat the hotter. I could not get cool for the life of me, and I had to grin and bear the discomfort. I do not know a much hotter place than Tasmouri and trust I never may, the wonder is how people live there at all. The fact I suppose is that the natives live very little within doors except at night, but during the day are engaged in their gardens, or otherwise enjoying the free and easy life to which they are the heirs by nature. It was intensely hot at Evensong, and oh! how one sighed for relief! An interesting Class with the Catechumens finished a pleasant day, on the whole, in spite of the heat. While we were at Evensong, and even while praying for her, one of the Christian young women, by name “Nesta,” was given a happy issue out of all her afflictions. She has been lying in a state ‘twixt life and death for more than two months, and died this evening. She was one of the first baptized here, and a nice, clever girl she was, and a great favourite. The people asked me to bury her to-night, and I consented. About midnight the grave was finished, and I went with the people to the graveside. A weird, but picturesque scene it was, the moon in full splendour high up in the heavens, the blazing native torches casting a lurid glare upon the quiet figure of the dead, resting in her final bed and wrapped in native mats, the husband seemingly heart-broken, wailing beside the open grave, the women sobbing all around, myself with a lantern and vested in a surplice at the head of the grave, and the people all subdued and solemn around. I read the Burial Service, and when I came to “earth to earth,” “ashes to ashes,” “dust to dust,” Samuel threw on the earth according to custom, and at the end of the service we sang a funeral hymn, which sounded very solemn in the strange stillness of the night. I gave an address to the people, and words never seem to me more appropriate, and apposite than on this occasion. When I had finished my part of the service I came away, and left the grave diggers to their unenviable duty.

Sunday, October 17th.—Most glorious morning and meltingly hot. We had school before breakfast, and I took a class of adult women. I was quite surprised at their readiness in the Church Catechism, which they said by heart from beginning to end. The Collect also they had got by heart and read with great facility. With the proficiency of the school generally I was amply satisfied, and teaching has evidently not been thrown away on the majority of the scholars. After breakfast we had Prayers, and the discomfort of the heat was not lessened by the hateful buzz and presence of the blue bottles. The service was hearty and comforting, however, and I asked the Catechumens to stay afterwards.

With them I had a nice class, and was satisfied that they were in earnest. One man who has two wives, and has long held out against Baptism, has now given in and put away one of his wives. It is a peculiarly hard case, as he has children by both, and the women have both lived with him for a great number of years. Both offered to go, and gave him his free choice as to the one he chose to retain and which to banish. He chose the elder of the two, his first wife, and the other consequently left, but I could not help being sorry for them all, and at the earnest supplication of the divorced wife I admitted her and her young child to Holy Baptism. It was no inconsiderable pang to the husband to relinquish his second wife, and I could see that the sacrifice both he and she were making had cost them a great deal of suffering, but the rule is hard and fast, and I could not go beyond our invariable practice to admit a man with one wife only to the Rites of our Holy Church.

In the evening I Baptized seventeen people of all sizes, ages, and sexes, and Tasmouri now lays claim to the proud title of being the first entirely Christian village in Maewo. It has not now a single heathen member, and I thank God and take courage from the success which His Word has had here through His Grace, and to Him alone be the honour and glory.

After the Baptism, and at the end of Evensong, I gave an address, and was listened to with marked attention, and I pray God my words may not have been spoken in vain. It was indeed to me an occasion of rejoicing in the Spirit, and I do not think I shall soon forget the reality and heartiness of that service. As I sat here in my house afterwards, all the newly Baptized came to bid me good-night, and the woman and child who were going into new quarters were not among the last or the least grateful for the events of the evening, for their present loss will be their eternal gain, and to have Jesus as Friend and Husband must compensate any one, with a grain of mustard-seed faith in their hearts, for the loss of husband and earthly father. None the less I could not help feeling sorry for the pretty, gentle creature who will begin henceforth a new and different life—this, of course, humanly speaking. I was very tired when the day was over, and everyone seemed glad that resting time had come.

Monday, October 18th.—Fine, indeed glorious day, but consequently very hot. According to standing custom here, I gave a whole holiday to the school and, we went for our usual picnic. The fatted pig was killed, and we all proceeded to Ron̈onawo to prepare it for dinner. The women did the cooking, the men lending ready and very efficient aid in getting and cutting firewood, &c. A book gave me employment throughout the day, and there was a good deal to interest one going on. The scene was far from being unanimated and devoid of interest, and the day soon hastened on to its termination and natural darkness. The ovens were opened in due course, and disgorged their plentiful contents. After grace the food was distributed, and before long we were wending our way homewards.

After Evensong a request was brought me that the people might have a dance, and of course I consented. There was not a very numerous company of dancers, but they kept up their energy for an hour or two in a manner in which I should be very sorry to imitate them, and the result may be imagined in a place where the smallest movement throws you into a bath of perspiration. This evening appeared those mysterious things like seaworms. They only come about one night in the year, but the people not only know the very night of their appearance, but almost the very hour. When they are expecting them they get ready a peculiar kind of deep basket with a wide mouth, and long cane torches, and when these worms of the sea are observed, the people shovel them by handsful into their baskets, and great quantities are in this way taken. They are of course esteemed a great delicacy, and by cooking and re-cooking, they are kept for a very long time as an accompaniment to their different kinds of food. Their flavour is somewhat peculiar, but by no means disagreeable, and I can quite understand a native esteeming them a delicacy. Their wormy nature, I am afraid, gives me a false sentiment against their niceness. Considerable numbers were secured this evening, but the “haul” was said not to be a very successful one.

Tuesday, October 19th.—This morning we were early astir and getting ready for our homeward journey. We had Prayers and school and then breakfast, after which we put our traps together and prepared to start. The boat was coming for me, so that our first journey was to Tasmate, and no joke at that, hot as it was. However, we got there finally, and before the boat. It was very warm walking, and I was very liquid again by the time Tasmate was reached. While we were there waiting for the boat a big steamer passed Southwards. She had not the appearance of a man-of-war, but was too large to be down this way for no purpose. She was steaming fast and well, but looked to be rather battered and dilapidated. She appeared to have come from Fiji or from somewhere in that direction. Later on we saw her again up the coast, whither perhaps she may have gone for water. Our row homewards was terrible—the heat was simply awful and pelted down upon us piteously without a breath of wind. However, we got to our boat cove eventually, and hauled up our boat, and then, as night was drawing nigh, we prepared to start at once for Tanrig. We had scarcely got off before we were caught in a heavy thunderstorm, and the rain came down in torrents. The roads, always bad, were now fearful, and having a good deal of water before us to wade through I had taken off my shoes and socks. My feet were very sore when I got to Ruosi, where, in spite of present dripping condition, we all bathed, and we got home like drowned rats, to find that very little rain had fallen here. After tea and Evensong I was ready for bed, being very tired and foot-sore.