JOURNAL OF A HORTICULTURAL TOUR, IN 1835. (continued 2)

It was now drawing near the hour that we were to take our departure from Augsburg in the diligence; whence we started at 7 o'clock p.m. for Ulm, the next town of any note.

I omitted to mention that we were accompanied through the different departments in Augsburg by the French gentleman who travelled with us from Dresden to Munich, and also by Mr. Withy, who was returning from a tour, and going then to Heidelberg; he travelled with us as far as Stuttgard, where we all parted.

Sept. 10th. Arrived at Ulm at half-past four o'clock in the morning. This is a pretty town, situated on the left bank of the Danube, in the kingdom of Wurtemberg, and is said to contain 23,000 inhabitants. We stopped here about an hour.

The first stage beyond Ulm consists of a fine agricultural district. The second stage presented rocky and fine scenery, planted with hard wood, the birch and beech trees intermixed, but the latter sort pre-hills on both sides, which is particularly picturesque, and surpasses the much admired Matlock scenery, for many miles. When we arrived at Geislingen we had time to admire the huge rocks peeping out amongst the trees opposite this village, where there is also a very fine prospect tower, which overlooks the town, and great extent of country. I observed, growing on the banks of Geislingen glen, the Asclepius vincetoxicum, Helleborus officinalis, and several other scarce plants.

Along this country numerous orchards of fruit trees prevailed, such as plums, pears, and the apple, which were very abundant, all growing close by the road side and full of fruit.

The road through Geislingen to Goppingen is very beautiful, being a great vineyard country for many miles, commencing about Plockingen, and extending along the face of the hills to Stuttgard. We passed through an old fashioned town called Esslingen, which is situated on the Necker, a river that heightens in a great degree the beauty of the whole valley along which it winds.

Cobbett's corn appears to be extensively cultivated in this district, particularly near to Stuttgard, where we arrived at six o'clock in the evening. Here I lost all my travelling companions, Mr. Parker starting for Frankfort immediately, and Mr. Withy the following morning for Heidelberg; both which towns I afterwards visited.

Sept. 11th. M. Hertz, who has a small nursery garden in Stuttgard, and whom I had previously seen in Kew gardens, very kindly volunteered to accompany me to the Royal Botanic Gardens here, which are situated at a short distance from the palace, and contain a number of old hothouses, and a good collection of plants in a very healthy state. In short, I was surprised to see the plants looking so healthy in such old worn out opaque roofed houses.

There are also cultivated here many very fine specimens of the Cacteæ. I saw one of the Cacteæ senilis above eighteen inches long, a very fine healthy plant. The Echinocactus cornigerus measured about six inches in circumference, and some other kinds were also nearly as fine.

The pleasure ground belonging to this palace contains about two hundred and sixty German acres; it is tastefully planted, and laid out in numerous drives and rides, forming a pleasant promenade for the public.

A very fine orangery, with dark roof, is situated at a considerable distance from the Botanic gardens, and near it a very complete flower house was erecting, the rafters of which were of metal, and the sashes all wood, heated with smoke flues, that pass under the pit, where an arched cellar is formed, so that mushrooms or other vegetables may be accelerated. I regretted that this house was not heated by hot-water, which would have rendered it very complete. It is intended to remove near to it the kitchen garden, which is situated at a very different part of the town, and in a very dilapidated state. Numerous pits for melons, and pines, are in these gardens, but in this state of intended transition they are not kept in good repair. After going through these different departments, M. Bosch, the superintendent of all the Royal gardens, then returned to the Botanic garden, while M. Hertz conducted me to a small villa garden, containing a very choice collection of Cacteæ, some fine large specimens of the Opuntia tribe and Cereuses were here.

Having called on the Baron de Meyendorff, the Russian ambassador at Stuttgard, his excellency accompanied me to a small nursery garden, which contained some good specimens of plants of the more hardy sorts of the New Holland and Cape species, but little of novelty amongst them. From hence we proceeded to the chateau of General Spizenberg, which has been lately erected on the side of a hill, commanding a most delightful and extensive prospect of Stuttgard and its varied scenery. I was much gratified to find that the old warrior, after undergoing the fatigues of many campaigns, was now devoting his leisure hours to the pursuit of botany and horticulture. Baron Meyendorff informed me that the general acts entirely as his own gardener, and he has certainly succeeded in forming a very choice collection of plants, consisting of hardy shrub, perennials, and exotics. There are grown in this small spot, sixty sorts of Camellias, a good variety of Ericas, and numerous other Cape plants, with some very curious Cacteæ. In a little stove, divided in two divisions, I observed also a few pine apples, but of a very inferior size, and not worth the trouble even of eating, let alone rearing. The other description of plants looked healthy, the peach-trees against the low wall were very well managed and neatly trained. The vines were also judiciously trained to a wooden trellising against the wall. On the whole it is an interesting collection, and well worth the stranger's notice. On my return I proceeded in the afternoon to Rosenstein palace, which is about two English miles from Stuttgard; but his excellency having the kindness to send his carriage, and being again accompanied by M. Hertz, we soon arrived there, and again met with M. Bosch.

This palace is a magnificent building, placed on a fine situation, commanding beautiful views of the Swabian Alps, also of Carstadt, where there are found buildings of the Romans, and large pieces of fossils, particularly of the mammoth. The Necker also forms a fine feature from this palace.

The grounds are very extensive, and the drives and walks well kept; the ground is now formed into beautiful sloping turf, which I understood was formerly in a very unlevel and rough state. It is beautifully diversified with various fine drives, which I could not but admire, being destitute of the fantastic twists, that are so often thrown in without the the least meaning.

At present the grounds around this palace have rather a naked appearance, for want of trees and shrubs, but this defect M. Bosch is rapidly removing, so that a few years will produce a very different effect; much difficulty is however experienced in getting the trees established, owing to the high elevation of the ground, and the general droughts in summer. At Rosenstein, I saw one of the most complete vineyards that I ever met with, formed on the slope of a hill, with wooden trellisses, so constructed as to have the greatest degree of the sun's rays, at that season when the fruit requires it most. These trellisses are arranged about six feet apart each other, and are formed thus, △, so that the vines are laid on an inclined plane, and the fruit appearing on all sides, have really a delightful effect. The trellis is five feet high, and six feet wide at bottom, and the whole constructed something like a parabola, and continued along the slope of ground in a curved line. I did not observe the vine in such a prolific state any where else, and the whole looked remarkably neat. At a considerable distance from the palace, some very extensive fruit terraces were forming on the slope of a hill, near the town of Carstadt; nearly two hundred men were busily employed blasting rock, and forming the terraces, which are intended for the vine, fig, peach, apricot, &c., and from the fine sheltered situation in which they are placed, I imagine the success will be fully equal to their expectations. On approaching these terraces I was at first surprised to observe the workmen surrounded by a number of soldiers, who were stationed at different parts, throughout them. I however soon observed that this precaution was necessary, as many of the workmen so employed, were convicts, and heavily loaded with chains round their legs. I walked over a great part of these extensive grounds, and was much pleased with the different objects I saw, and improvements proceeding with.

Sept. 12th. Started this morning, for Hohenheim palace, which is situated about six English miles from Stuttgard; it is now occupied as an agricultural establishment, and has attached to it a thousand acres of ground, devoted to agricultural experiments. I was much gratified by seeing the granary of seeds, consisting of a great variety of the different kinds used in husbandry, which was said to amount to five hundred sorts. The stock of cattle and sheep, is very fine and extensive. The repository of agricultural implements contains the various instruments used in farming, from every known country, and are all kept in excellent order.

The different domestic apartments in the palace, are occupied by numerous pupils, who congregate here from all parts of Germany. I was happy to learn that the produce of the establishment was sufficient to meet all the expences, attending its cultivation. In the pleasure ground, or rather nursery, a great quantity of the more common sorts of shrubs is cultivated. I observed a fine tree covered with fruit of the Prunus cirrhifera, an excellent plum, quite round, and of a purple colour. I also saw a fine specimen of the Tilia alba, that was planted by Duke Charles the Fraxinus juglandifolia, was a particularly noble plant, as well as the Quercus macrocarpa, and various other species of this genus. There are about sixty arpents of ground here, under young fruit tree cultivation, which are grown for sale.

During the time that Duke Charles resided at Hohenheim, the gardens were much celebrated, and attracted numerous visitors from all parts of Germany. There is a fine piece of ground called the English garden, that was much admired, but now we have only the forlorn remains of it left. At the front of the palace, are still several of the old flower beds, and the balustrade wall, which forms a fine sweep, at the principal or entrance front. It was in Duke Charles's time well stocked with orange trees, but none are now in existence. The ground falls considerably, towards the south, from the palace, and when under garden cultivation, it must have had a very pretty effect. The view from the windows, over a small town called Boblingen, and the surrounding scenery, is very fine, the Swabian Alps appearing in the distance. I should imagine Hohenheim palace, about sixty years ago, must have been one of the most magnificent in Wurtemberg, but the apartments are rapidly going to decay. The new road lately formed near to Stuttgard, winding through the vineyard plantations, with their numerous small huts or watch boxes, has also a very pretty effect, although rather fatiguing from its steep ascent.

On my return from Hohenheim, I again called on Mr. Koster, the British secretary of legation, who accompanied me to the house of M. de Kerner, where I saw eighty-three volumes of the splendid Botanical work, executed by the late M. de Kerner, which consists of above one thousand drawings of the various fruits, and other exotic flowering plants, which are undoubtedly exquisite specimens of that gentleman's abilities as a draughtsman. These volumes were only purchased by the royal libraries of Vienna, St. Petersburg, Munich, Stuttgard, and Copenhagen, at a price of seventeen hundred pounds; only six or seven copies were executed, one of which is still on hand, in the possession of M. de Kerner. After again procuring my passport, I started about eight o'clock in the evening, for Carlsruhe, where I arrived at five the next morning.

Sept. 13th. On my arrival I found that the diligence would start in the course of twenty minutes for Baden. I started by it, and arrived there at ten o'clock. His Excellency Lord George William Russell, kindly gave me a note of introduction to Sir John Frost, the late secretary of the Medico-Botanical Society of London, who was then residing at Baden, and practising as a physician. This gentleman furnished me with several notes of introduction, to some of his Botanical friends, and also kindly shewed me the different objects of interest about the town; amongst which was the fountain of mineral-water, so much celebrated, for various diseases. It is of a very high temperature; so much so, that I was unable to drink a glass of it, without first letting it cool; from the appearance of the fountain, one would imagine that a strong fire was burning under it. From the baths we proceeded to the castle garden, and from hence, a considerable way up the hill, where is a most delightful prospect of the town, and its very romantic scenery. The old castle forms a prominent object of attraction, which, with the tremendous precipices of rock, and plantations, render this spot the most picturesque that I had previously met with on my tour through Germany.

An excellent promenade, called the English garden, with neatly kept walks and pieces of lawn, is much frequented by the inhabitants and visitors. Situated in the promenade is a magnificent building called the "Conversation House," with numerous orange trees arranged in front of it.

In the interior, I was much surprised to see in a very capacious room, splendidly furnished, a large concourse of ladies and gentlemen, during Sunday, very busy at the gambling tables; in fact the ladies appeared to be fully as expert gamblers as the gentlemen. I also made a visit to the convent, where two skeletons of saints decorated with numerous pearls, rings, and other costly ornaments are exhibited; the skull and teeth appeared to be in pretty good preservation, but these superstitious decorations, so perfectly incongruous, might be well dispensed with. The number of strangers calculated to have visited Baden, during the season of 1835, are said to have amounted to thirteen thousand. The scenery for a great part of the way from Carlsruhe to Baden, is considerably varied, and the old castle of Eberstein appearing on an eminence, with well planted hills, forms a lively contrast. We also passed through a handsome town called Rastadt, situated on the river Murg, where a palace, belonging to the grand duke of Baden, appears conspicuous from the road.

Sept. 14th. I called this morning on Mr. Kennedy (brother to the Marquess of Ailsa,) and delivered to him a note of introduction that I received from Lord G. W. Russell. Mr. Kennedy very kindly accompanied me to the Botanic Garden, and introduced me to M. Held, the gardener, a very intelligent man; here the enormous height that the Melaleuca stipulacea had attained, which was nearly forty feet, is truly astonishing. Various other Melaleucas and Banksias were nearly as high; the Dracæna Draco (Dragon-tree,) was about twenty feet in height; and the Pomaderis apetala almost thirty feet. In this garden are various ranges of houses for the cultivation of tropical and other green-house plants, which are extensively cultivated. The houses have all dark roofs, with glass only in front; yet the greater part of their inmates looked very healthy, particularly the greenhouse plants; but these had the advantage of being exposed to the weather during the summer months. Various pits were also in this establishment for the growth and protection of the half-hardy species. The Succulentæ are extensively cultivated; there are nearly one hundred and forty species of Mesembryanthemums, and about one hundred different kinds of Aloes, besides a pretty good collection of the Cacteæ. The Rhododendron and Azalea, are cultivated out of doors, which is rarely the case in any other garden in Germany.

The herbaceous ground is formed into oblong squares, and these again divided into narrow beds, which are well stocked with a great variety of hardy flowering perennials. The whole of this botanical department was remarkably neat and clean, having, it is understood, been much improved since M. Held was appointed. It appeared to me, however, to be much too crowded with these heavy looking houses, which are too numerous for a space of ground, undoubtedly too contracted and confined for such a collection of plants.

The park, or pleasure-ground, adjoins the garden, and although of a dull flat surface, yet it contains many very fine specimens of ornamental trees and shrubs. I observed, for instance, the Salisburia adiantifolia, sixty feet high, and several very large tulip trees, and the Sophora Japonica; a fine specimen of the Acer dasycarpum, measured no less than a space of ground of twenty yards regular diameter. I was much pleased with a small flower garden, close to the palace windows, which was well stocked with flowers in full bloom. The grounds are laid out with numerous avenues radiating from the palace, which extend in a straight line for a considerable distance; I reckoned twenty-seven of these avenues, which had certainly rather an imposing effect, and various walks and rides that branch off through the grounds in different directions. There is also an extensive piece of ground enclosed with a high wall, occupied as a nursery, and well stocked with various hardy species of trees and shrubs. The front of the palace, next Carlsruhe, was ornamented with large orange trees. The orangery was a large building, the front of which was well covered with grape-vines in a prolific state.

Sept. 15th. Left Carlsruhe at six o'clock, a.m. for Heidelberg, passing through a fine fertile country, chiefly occupied with green crops. The mangel wurtzel, Indian corn, and fine crops of tobacco, are cultivated here, as well as in many other parts of Germany. Arrived at Heidelberg at eleven o'clock, and proceeded to the Botanic Garden, which has been only recently established, and contains a neat range of hot-houses, about one hundred and sixty feet long, besides a large sized pit in front of the range, one hundred feet long. This garden, although small, is pleasantly situated, and well arranged. In the centre is an oblong piece of water, the banks around which are considerably elevated, and planted with standard fruit trees, such as peaches, apricots, plums, and pears. The garden forms an oblong square, with a range of hot-houses and gardener's house at the north end, close to the Heidelberg Gate. These hothouses were the best and neatest-built that I had met with in Germany, and contain a pretty fair collection of plants, with some very fine species of Cacteæ. Along by the east side of the garden is an avenue of very fine specimens of the Robinia inermis, which is also continued along the south side of the town for a considerable distance.

I next proceeded to Schwetzingen, another magnificent establishment, belonging to the Grand Duke of Baden. The palace and gardens are situated about five English miles from Heidelberg, and are unquestionably well worth the stranger's visit. In the approach to them by an arch-way at the palace, we have a view of a large circular piece of ground, divided into various divisions, in which are cultivated a good collection of flowering plants; there are also in this spot a number of fine orange trees, arranged along the edges of broad gravel walks; several of them forming a straight avenue, extending in various directions. The centre walk or avenue, leading from the palace, is terminated by an extensive sheet of water, where is placed a fine group of sculpture, as well as another at the commencement of the avenue, at the end of the grass, next to the circular piece of ground, where the orange trees are arranged. On each side of this principal avenue is situated an oblong piece of ground, laid out in the French style of gardening, with numerous straight walks, and circular spaces at their junctions. The exterior of the ground, and that by the lake, is laid out in the English style, and consists of various clumps of trees; and the very fine irregular sheet of water has really a very good effect.

I was much pleased with a very fine ruin, which is ascended by steps to a very considerable height, from whence is a delightful prospect of the gardens and adjoining scenery. The Temple of Apollo, with the stupendous blocks of rock, and the water dashing against them, is another object deserving of notice. The Temple of Minerva is also a very pretty erection. A Roman aqueduct forms a very prominent object of attraction, but at this season of the year it appeared to be but indifferently supplied with water, which might be occasioned by the long and universal drought. A Temple Botanique, and a very handsome Kiosk, formed objects of interest and ornaments to the garden. An extensive arched trellising covered with creepers also attracted my notice: in it were numerous arborial openings on both sides.

The collection of Cape and New Holland plants is pretty extensive, and numerous species of the Genus Erica are also cultivated. In the kitchen garden various pyramidal-formed pear trees are grown; and the hothouses are of a better description than are usually to be met with in Germany; the south-side glass, and the back opaque, with span roofs. The pine-apples here were the best that I had previously met with during my tour in Germany. To give an accurate description of the various objects of interest that are to be seen in these grounds would require one well acquainted with the premises, and several days' actual residence on the spot. The orange houses are substantial built houses, with dark roofs, and the collection of trees, from their appearance, from four to five hundred, which were in a healthy state.

Having a letter of introduction from Sir John Frost and M. Kilter from the neighbourhood of Vienna (who visited Woburn Abbey last summer) to the principal director, I experienced the greatest attention from him; the greatest pains were taken in pointing out to me every thing worthy of notice.

Returned to Heidelberg, and visited the ruins of an old castle, situated on the face of a hill overlooking the town, and the river Necker, and surrounded by high hills well planted, which form an eminence considerably above the castle, where there is a platform or resting place: the view of the extent of country and its romantic scenery is really grand. On the top of two of these hills are high towers, the prospect from which must be still more extensive. On approaching the old castle, I was agreeably surprised to observe some fine walks, with a collection of trees or arboretum, with printed labels attached to them, and the ground in good order. From this we still continued to descend to the old castle, which, even in its present state, must strike the stranger with regret that such a magnificent building should have been permitted to go to decay, particularly as the stone work appears in a good state of preservation. The prospect from the terrace, on the north-side of the castle, is really grand, commanding the circuitous course of the Necker, the lofty and undulating hills on each side, which I imagine must be elevated at least two thousand feet above the level of the site of the castle.

In the interior of the building is the celebrated Heidelberg tun, which was formerly used in making the Rhenish wine, with the great machine that was in use for that purpose, and from its size the quantity made daily must have been very great; near to it stands a figure of one of the wine makers, who was in the habit of drinking fifteen bottles every day. The approach of night prevented me from inspecting the interior of this old castle so minutely as I could have wished. Descending from a hill considerably elevated above this building, I passed through a grove of fine trees (sweet chesnuts) all in full bearing.

The country and romantic scenery in the vicinity of Heidelberg pleased me more than anything of the kind I had previously met with.

Sept. 19th. Left Heidelberg at six o'clock a. m. for Frankfort, the road winding along the river Necker, for a considerable distance, through a flat country to the left; but the high hills on the right as we passed from this to Darmstadt formed a pleasing contrast. The scenery for the first ten or twelve miles is very picturesque, from the high undulating hills, having numerous old romantic castellated ruins on their summits, or commanding points, which form prominent features of attraction. These hills are likewise well planted with forest trees; and large tracts are under vineyard culture.

Arrived at Darmstadt at half-past one o'clock. I was much pleased with the cleanliness and elevated situation of this town, which is said to contain above twenty thousand inhabitants; the houses are handsomely built, the streets wide, and in good proportion to the height and size of the houses; they have also flag pavements, which is a rarity in Germany. The opera-house is a splendid building, as well as the cathedral. The palace is also a fine old building, and has attached to it an extensive pleasure ground and kitchen garden.

Having but a very short time to stop here I made but a hasty visit through the gardens. The kitchen garden walls were well stocked with trees in full bearing, and large crops of vegetables appeared to be extensively cultivated: from thence I went to the extremity of the grounds, near which is a small herbaceous ground, with a good collection of plants in it, but I observed but little in the ornamental way in the arboretum department.

About the centre is prettily formed, although dirty, a sheet of water, with a fanciful boat, for passing to and from a small island in the centre. The grounds are very flat and not varied, but possess numerous walks and rides which are frequented by the inhabitants.

I here observed a large number of horses, belonging to the Grand Duke, passing through the town to the Ducal stables. There are military barracks, and a large establishment of soldiers stationed here. This is evidently not a town of trade, but is principally occupied by the military.

Left Darmstadt at three o'clock for Frankfort; the country betwixt these towns is not much varied, but the soil appears very fertile, and produces good crops. I was, however, quite astonished at the number of carriages and other vehicles passing and re-passing betwixt Frankfort and Heidelberg; the road appeared to be nearly as much crowded as any of the English roads leading to London, and amongst these travellers were many English families.

Arrived at Frankfort at six o'clock in the evening; the hotels were all so crowded with strangers that it was with difficulty I procured a bed, but at last the landlord of the Hotel d'Angleterre obtained me a room in a private house.

Sept. 17th. In the morning I visited the Catholic cathedral, which is said to be one thousand years old, and contains a curious clock and almanac, made and placed in it about four hundred years ago; and then proceeded to the banking-house of Messrs. Koch and Co., and delivered to them a letter of introduction from His Excellency Lord G. W. Russell. They kindly furnished me with notes of introduction to several of the best gardens in Frankfort. I then visited the nursery gardens of M. Rintz, which are situated in the suburbs of the town, and contain about eighteen English acres, chiefly occupied with fruit trees. There are also several hothouses and pits for Cape and other plants, which are pretty extensively cultivated, with a good variety of Ericas and other greenhouse plants, as well as several fine specimens of Cacteæ, and a very extensive variety of the Camelliæ; but unfortunately none of these being at this season in flower, I had not the pleasure of seeing M. Rintz's celebrated variety, which is said to be very fine. This gentleman then accompanied me to the garden of M. Andreæ Willemer, which is close to the town, but is very limited in extent; it contains a very good greenhouse, and low pits and frames, which were then well stocked with a very fine collection of Cacteæ, amongst which were many very scarce species. This gentleman devotes much attention to the cultivation of this tribe of plants, and appeared to put a higher value on many of them than they are actually worth; for instance, the Cactus Senilis he would not part with for fifty pounds, although possessing duplicates. There was also a good assortment of Cape plants and a number of Ericas, which are now beginning to be more extensively cultivated in Germany than they previously were.

I then paid a visit to the Frankfort Botanic Garden, which is of very limited extent, and its collection of plants also very contracted. These is, however, attached to it, the Senkenberg Society, which contains a splendid collection of objects in natural history, such as birds, fishes, shells, minerals, and animals, which are well worth the stranger's notice.

From this I proceeded to the gardens of M. Gogel, situated about four English miles from Frankfort, containing twenty-four German acres, with several hothouses and pits for the growth of the pine-apple and other tropical plants, which are extensively cultivated here. This gentleman has a very fine collection of the hardy grapes on the garden walls, with a large space of vegetable ground, well cropped. The lawn in front of the house appears, from the River Main, to much advantage, as well as a fine avenue of lime trees, that have grown to a large size. At the lower end of this avenue is a fine vista of the river and packets, or boats, that pass to and from Frankfort and Mayence.

On my return, I called at the villa garden of M. Stern, which is a pretty little spot, with a great variety of pelargoniums and dahlias, and other green-house plants, and contains some small green-houses and pits for their protection; there is also a good collection of camellias, all in a healthy state.

Adjoining this is another villa, belonging to M. Cronelius, that has also several good hothouses and pits, with a large variety of Ericas, Camellias, Dryandrias, and Geraniums, as well as other New Holland plants. There are likewise several espalier divisions, in which the pear tree is extensively cultivated, and appeared to be in a very prolific state. There is a considerable extent of ground under kitchen cropping, and also a pleasure ground, which was very well kept.

The garden of Baron Rothschild, close to the town of Frankfort, is undoubtedly the best in this neighbourhood that came under my observation; it contains thirty-five German acres, with several green-houses, besides an extensive range then building, about two hundred feet long, which was also intended for plants, and is divided into seven apartments, in order that those kinds that require different temperatures may be kept separately; this range when completed will have a very fine effect. In front of the mansion were placed two large stands well stocked with geraniums, and some very good orange trees, in tubs, which are removed from this site to the green-house early in autumn. I here observed a very fine specimen of the Araucaria excelsa, which was beautifully feathered to the ground; this is unquestionably one of the finest specimens of this plant that I have seen on the continent or in England, with the exception of that at Dropmore, which is much finer in every respect. Baron Rothschild's Araucaria is little inferior to the one at Prince de Linge's at Belial.

Opposite to the house is a prospect tower, that commands a fine view of Frankfort and surrounding country; there is also an arched walk completely covered with grape vines. The grass lawn was well kept, and various clumps of trees and shrubs dispersed through it. A small piece of water is enclosed at the lower end of the ground for water fowl. In this garden I observed a good collection of green-house plants and Ericas.

The fortifications that formerly surrounded the town are now demolished, and formed into a public promenade for the inhabitants, and are well laid out, with various clumps of trees and shrubs, broad walks, and benches.

Frankfort is a town of great traffic, and is said to contain about 40,000 inhabitants.

Sept. 18th. Left Frankfort at ten o'clock for Mayence, and passed through a fertile sandy country, which is well stocked with grape vines, but the country not much varied; the scenery as we approach Mayence is more picturesque, particularly when we get in view of the town. We pass through a handsome barrack, situated on the verge of the river, proceeding across a long wooden bridge that leads to the town. Opposite to this wooden bridge, are placed seventeen watermills for grinding flour, which were then busily at work.

The town is surrounded by very deep rampart ditches, faced with strong stone walls, a very good promenade, and a number of small gardens with clipt hedges, near the edge of the Rhine, where there is an avenue that extends along its banks formed by large trees of Poplar and Robinias. At a short distance from Mayence, but on the opposite side and close to the banks of the river is a very fine old castellated building, and a small village adjoining, which form a prominent feature in the scenery from the Mayence bridge.

Sept. 19th. Left Mayence per steam packet for Bonn. For the first two hours, we made scarcely any progress, owing to the dense fog, which we were all anxious to see disperse, in order that the beautiful scenery might be seen to full advantage: it was however not before nine o'clock, that the banks of the Rhine were quite clear, when the packet began to make a rapid progress, and passing rapidly along between numerous stupendous rocks, old castles, and small towns situated close by the river side.

The banks of the Rhine are extensively cultivated as vineyards. When we arrived at Katz, which is considered about the middle of the best scenery, we met the other steam packet, coming up at Werlau. The scenery here is truly grand; the high mountainous rocks and old castellated ruins, with the various undulations and other objects, render this region highly picturesque. There is a pretty town close by the water edge, with white houses, and corresponding village on the opposite side, and another appearing just at the extremity of a deep valley in prospect. The old castle called Marksburg, is a prominent object, but to attempt to describe or enumerate all the various features of interest that come under observation in passing along the Rhine, would be an endless task. The scenery at Coblentz is very beautiful, with its bridge of boats across the Rhine, similar to that at Mayence. A large rock called the Stromberg, is very picturesque, with the castellated ruins at the top, and several other rocks of smaller dimensions in its vicinity, nearly opposite to which the Rhine surrounds a small island. This may be considered about the last of the romantic scenery that comes in view, as we pass down the Rhine.

Arrived at Bonn, about five o'clock, where I experienced some difficulty in getting a lodging, in consequence of the great meeting of scientific professors having been here congregated. After at last finding admittance in a hotel, I proceeded to the Botanic garden, which is situated about a mile from the town, surrounding the south and east sides of the university, and containing a very handsome range of hothouses, from three to four hundred feet in length, which also form nearly a line, or a range, with the principle front of the university. The hothouses are in five divisions, and contain an extensive collection of Ferns and Graminea; many of the stove plants were in a very luxuriant state, and looked very healthy. Behind this range is the annual ground, where the different species are cultivated, which appeared to occupy about an acre: there are several low pits placed in this department, for the growth of Cacteæ, and Orchideæ, and other dwarf-growing species; but the collection of Cacteæ and Orchideæ is very limited. Immediately in front of the range of hothouses, is an arboretum of hardy trees and shrubs, much too crowded, and planted too close to the hothouses, and is continued in a manner round the two ends and south side of the garden. Opposite the principal front of the university, is arranged the collection of Herbaceous plants, according to the natural system, but the beds are all of an oblong form, with broad alleys or foot-paths, betwixt them: an extensive collection of the hardy flowering perennial plants was grown in the Herbaceous ground, but the variety of hardy trees and shrubs appeared to be very limited. There were placed along the front of the university several clumps of green-house plants, and orange trees.

The university was formerly a royal palace, but the lower apartments are now devoted to collections of natural history; the length of the front measures eighty eight yards, and appeared to be about square, with an inner court. On my return, I met with professor Treveranes, and gave him a letter of introduction that I had from Sir W. Hooker. I learned from the professor, that the prince of Salm-Dyck was then in Bonn, attending the scientific meeting, and if I did not see him that evening, I should not be able to see him at all; having a letter of introduction to his highness from Sir W. Hooker, and from Mr. Sabine, and being anxious to see the prince, if possible, I made the best of my way back to Bonn, to the hotel where the prince was stated to be residing; but on enquiring there, finding he had gone out, I immediately proceeded in search of the prince to another hotel to which I had been directed. After waiting some time, I found his highness had not arrived, but was expected very soon. I therefore amused myself in looking through several splendid apartments which were then occupied by a large number of ladies and gentlemen, who meet at this hotel or club-house every night, to supper and various amusements. At last I was informed that the prince had just arrived, when I delivered my letters of introduction, and apologised for intruding at that unseasonable time. The Prince appointed me to be with him at nine o'clock the following morning, when his Highness was pleased to give me a letter to his gardener at Salm-Dyck, directing him to shew me the grounds and collections under his care.

Sept. 20th. After my return from the prince, I made another excursion to the Botanic garden, where I again saw the professor Treveranes, who had not accompanied his learned brethren to Cologne, who to the number of about four hundred had departed that morning for that town.

I took a walk on my return from the Botanic gardens round the environs, and was much pleased by the objects of interest that displayed in different directions. The scenery around Bonn is particularly fine, and some good prospects from a hill, at a short distance from the town; but as I intended starting by the early steam packet, I had not time to reach its summit, although very inviting.

The Cathedral is a very fine building, and its interior handsomely fitted up.

The packet arrived at half-past two o'clock: I took my departure for Dusseldorf, and passed by Cologne, where, I imagine, there must have been several thousand people assembled on the harbour and bridge.

We now changed packets for one of less dimensions and splendour, and arrived at Dusseldorf about half-past ten o'clock. The scenery from Cologne to Dusseldorf was flat, and but little varied; in short Bonn is the termination of picturesque scenery.

At Dusseldorf, I had but little difficulty in finding a hotel, as they were not so much crowded as at Bonn.

Sept. 21st. Started at six o'clock, a. m. for prince Salm-Dyck's Château, which is situated about ten miles from Dusseldorf, on the opposite side of the Rhine, which is crossed in a flat barge, and passes through the ancient town of Neuss, at which place Buonaparte's design of connecting the Rhine, Scheldt, and Meuse, is nearly completed.

The suburbs of Neuss abound in numerous vegetable gardens, enclosed with well clipt hedges. The ground in this part of the country, is a strong rich looking yellowish loam, and produces strong crops of corn, clover, and potatoes. The road however leading through a part of this country to the prince's palace, is very much out of repair, and appeared to have been neglected for a considerable time.

On arriving at the palace, I immediately found out M. Funck, the prince's gardener, and delivered to him my letters of introduction from the prince, and from M. Otto, of Berlin. The garden ground attached to this residence, contains one hundred and eighty German acres; the surface is considerably varied, and consists of numerous fine trees and shrubs grouped together on the lawn, the rising ground being judiciously planted with the loftiest growing sorts, and kept towards the extremity of the arboretum; amongst these I observed some very fine specimens of beeches and oaks; the beeches were particularly fine.

I saw here the Gleditschia tricantha, 50 feet high, and the Populus Canadensis eleven feet in circumference, by about sixty in height; also a fine specimen of Acer dasycarpum. The trees in this arboretum are arranged according to the system of Jussieu; there is likewise a natural arrangement of herbaceous plants nearer to the palace and green houses. I here observed a good collection of Pæonias, but the prince excels most in the Succulent tribe of plants, such as the Cacteæ, Mesembryanthemum, and Aloes.

Although the Cacteæ are very numerous they were not such fine specimens as in the Berlin garden. A sheet of water encloses, in a manner, the greater part of the palace and its offices, and from the windows it has a very fine effect, with its bold sweeping banks extending along the arboretum, where a pretty wooden bridge appears in view. The hothouses are rather in a decayed state; but M. Funck informed me that the prince intended re-building them. In the greenhouse are some very rare specimens of Yuccas and Aloes. I understood from M. Funck that Mr. Hitchen, of Norwich, had the greater part of his celebrated collection from this garden, whence I also anticipate receiving, ere long, not a few rarities.

In going through the interior of the palace I saw a number of very old paintings, many of which represented former princes of Salm-dyck, but they are not in a good state of preservation; the rooms and furniture are of antique appearance, as well as the exterior of the palace. After spending several hours in inspecting the plants and grounds, I returned to Dusseldorf, to see the botanic garden belonging to that town, which is certainly neither difficult to get over, nor to see its contents, the space of ground being very contracted, and the plants also few in number.

They principally consisted of annuals; with a few rare species of Cacteæ, not easily to be met with. I was, however, more pleased with the public garden or promenade, which surrounds the town, and is very extensive; it is particularly well laid out with fine broad walks, clumps of trees and shrubs, and lawn intervening, and great variation of surface, with different points of view commanding fine prospects of the Rhine, with its boats and steam packets.

There is in this promenade a fine avenue of Populus dilatata, as well as the Tilia Europæa, (Lime tree,) also several pieces of water, the outline of some formed with much taste and intricacy, while others are left rather formal; but, on the whole, little room is left for criticism. Dusseldorf is a handsome town, and contains about 18,000 inhabitants; with good streets and well built houses.

Sept. 22nd. Left Dusseldorf by diligence at eight o'clock, a.m.; and passed by the palace of prince Frederic, which is situated close by the road side, in front of which the orange trees and sheets of water appear very conspicuous. The gardens are said to contain a good collection of plants.

Arrived at Cologne at one o'clock. This town is of considerable extent and traffic, and has a population of upwards of 50,000 inhabitants. The great object of attraction for the stranger is the magnificent church, or cathedral, one of the finest in Europe, the dome one hundred and eighty feet high, and the interior illuminated with beautiful stained glass windows; the portraits as large as life, and magnificently executed. I was, however, more pleased by the exquisite architecture of the exterior; when finished, the effect will be grand in the extreme. On the south side of the town are strong fortifications, opposite to which is a promenade, that runs along a narrow slip of plantation on the exterior side of them. There are also numerous fields for the growth of vegetables. I here observed a small nursery garden well stocked with fruit trees and shrubs. At a short distance from this I saw a large building which I concluded to be a military barrack or magazine, which was guarded by soldiers. By the time that I had completed my survey of the town, I found that it was approaching to the hour that the diligence was to leave for Aix-la-Chapelle. I started about seven o'clock in the evening for this town, where we arrived at four o'clock the following morning.

Sept. 23rd. Having a few hours to stop before the diligence set out, I proceeded to the cathedral, where the celebration of the mass was performing. It is a very splendid building, the interior highly ornamented on the ceiling with fine fresco paintings.

The town hall, or now police office, is also a very magnificent building; I observed some fine paintings in the interior.

The several celebrated mineral springs in this town are nearly as hot as those at Baden; leading from the Baths, is a handsome street and a number of good houses, that appeared to have been recently erected. At a short distance from the town is a prettily planted hill, which must command a fine prospect from its top of the surrounding country and scenery; but my time would not permit a visit to it. In the vicinity of Aix-la-Chapelle are numerous market gardens, but I observed no nursery stock. The road leading from hence to Liege is considerably varied, and the ground apparently of a rich fertile nature. The town of Liege is situated in a beautiful valley, at the junction of the river Meuse with the Ourthe, and surrounded by hills and fertile pasture, the latter being watered by three rivers, the Ourthe, the Vestre, and the Meuse.

This city contains a great many very fine built houses, and is much celebrated for its various manufactories, which principally consist of marble, coal, iron, and various other hardware articles. The old palace is a fine antique building of the Ionic order; the different apartments in it were then undergoing a thorough repair. The viranda that surrounds the inner square is now formed into an arcade of shops. From this palace I proceeded to the old citadel on mount St. Walburgh, which commands a fine view of the town, the river Meuse, and the surrounding scenery, for several miles in extent.

Sept. 24th. Went this morning to the cathedral, the architectural arrangements of which are very imposing; the interior decorations are well deserving of the stranger's notice, as well as its richly ornamented ceiling, and beautifully painted windows, and several fine pictures and groups of sculpture. I next proceeded to M. Makoy's nursery, which is situated about two or three English miles from the town. It contains an extensive collection of plants, which are extremely well grown, and all in fine saleable condition. The spirited proprietor was then erecting another extensive range of hothouses, and heating it with hot water, which, together with the numerous houses he has already, will extend his plant houses to about six hundred feet in length. In this nursery I observed one of the best collections of green-house plants, that I met with on the continent; they were undoubtedly not surpassed in their growth by any collection that I have seen; the Camellias, Cacteæ, and orchideous plants, also form a prominent feature in this establishment, as well as the collection of Azaleas, and Rhododendrons, which were all in fine condition, the nursery ground in good keeping, and well stocked with fruit trees.

On my return I visited the botanic garden, which surrounds the university, and contains nearly two English acres of ground, in which is cultivated a good collection of hardy perennials, and Gramineæ plants. There are also three hothouses for the growth of tropical and Cape plants. In the stove I observed a very fine specimen of the Dracæna Draco, (Dragon tree,) which was twenty two feet high; the Caladium lacerum had also attained the height of fifteen feet; there was likewise a very fine plant of the Crinum amabile, then in flower. The university is a magnificent building, and is at present having large additions made to it.

I started at twelve o'clock for Namur. The road, leading along the river Meuse, is extremely picturesque, the large rocks and varied surface give it a fine appearance. Along the banks by the road side I observed the common box growing in great abundance. We skirted an extensive tract of vineyards, which are cultivated along the banks or rising ground on the right side of the river Meuse, as we pass from Liege to Huy. At this town we cross the river by a stone bridge. Huy contains a number of well built houses, and is pleasantly situated, being surrounded by lofty rocks, with a strong fortification. The road skirting the river Meuse from Huy to Namur, appeared to me to be of the most romantic and beautiful scenery that I had previously met with, particularly a part of it, when approaching within a few miles of Namur, where the rocks and varied surface give it a most interesting appearance. In a picturesque spot on this line of road we have in full view the summer chateau of the prince d' Aremberg, as well as various other handsome residences.

Arrived at seven o'clock in the evening at Namur, when there commenced a tremendous storm of thunder and lightning and rain, which continued for several hours. Namur is a strongly fortified town, situated in a valley, at the junction of the rivers Meuse and Sambre. The cathedral is an object of interest; but as I left the same evening by diligence for Mons, I was unable to see this noble structure.

The view from the bridge opposite the fortifications has a grand appearance to the eye of the stranger. Left Namur at half past nine o'clock, and arrived at Mons at ten o'clock the following morning.

Sept. 25th. Mons is a strongly fortified town, and abounds with market gardens in the environs. It appeared to be the centre of a great agricultural district. Coal-works are likewise very abundant in its vicinity.

I proceeded from this town to Belœil in a cabriolet; passing through a fertile country, and a fine plantation belonging to the Prince de Ligne, which contained some fine beech trees, with numerous avenues, but a horrid road; the wheels of the cabriolet sinking up near to the axeltree for the greater part of the journey. On my arrival at Belœil I was unfortunate in not finding the Prince at home, as I had a letter of introduction to his highness from Sir Robert Adair. I found some difficulty in obtaining admittance into the gardens; but on the arrival of a gentleman belonging to the establishment, he gave orders to one of the guards to conduct me through the grounds to the kitchen garden. The palace is surrounded by water, and at the principal front is a large oblong sheet of water, with a large mass of sculpture at its extremity. The prospect from the palace windows, along this piece of water and the avenue, which is formed by high clipped hornbeam hedges, as well as by the lime-tree, appeared very fine, and extended for several miles in a straight direction. The grounds are very extensive, and intersected by numerous avenues of hornbeam hedges, which are of great height, with various arborial windows cut in them from eight to ten feet from the ground. In short, the number of avenues and well-clipt hedges that lead in every direction through these grounds, render it a place well worthy of a visit, and constitute a different feature in gardening from what is generally to be met with elsewhere.

The Prince has an extensive range of houses for the growth of exotics, all connected with a large opaque-roofed orangery, which forms a centre to the range; the wings are of different heights, and have a very good effect. I here observed a more magnificent Araucaria excelsa than I had previously seen, with the exception of that at Dropmore, which is much larger, and more beautiful. This orangery is a capacious building, principally erected with red brick, with upright lights only in front, the roof being slated. It contains a large assortment of orange trees, in good health. There is also a house devoted to Camellias, containing about two hundred and forty sorts. The botanic stoves are well stocked with healthy plants, but there are very few of the new or lately introduced species amongst them. I observed here a very fine specimen of the Coccoloba pubescens, the leaves of which appeared to me to be more luxuriant than on any other plant of this species that I had previously seen. The Urania speciosa was also particularly fine, and several other kinds in a flourishing state.

In the same compartment with the plant-houses is placed an extensive range of pine-apple and melon-pits, as well as several structures of peach and vine framing. In the kitchen-garden a large assortment of the hardy fruits are cultivated, especially pears and apples; the former are trained as standards along the borders, in a pyramidal form, and appeared to produce excellent crops. The kitchen-gardens and pleasure-grounds, although very extensive, were in a very rough state; the only part kept in good order seemed to be the plant-houses and hedges.

From Belœil I proceeded to Ath, a very strongly fortified town. The country from Prince de Ligne's to Ath is very fine, and consists of a rich agricultural soil in a high state of cultivation, producing excellent crops. The town is said to contain about 80,000 inhabitants; the ancient tower of Brabant forms a prominent object, and the church of Julien is well worth notice.

Sept. 26th. Left Ath at eight o'clock in the morning, in a cabriolet, for Enghien, which is only a small town; but the fine park, and gardens belonging to the duke d' Aremberg, which are situated close to the town, are objects of general attraction. Unfortunately the castle or mansion was burned down during the late revolution, and his highness now chiefly resides in an ancient mansion near Louvain. The duke has lately built a very fine range of hothouses for the growth of tropical plants; they are four hundred and sixty feet long, and are divided into several divisions; the centre, which is occupied as a stove for the more lofty of the tropical plants, is sixty-six feet long, thirty four high, and twenty five wide. In this house the Urania speciosa had attained the height of thirty three feet; the Displotanium argenteum also thirty three feet; this is a beautiful Palm. The Caryota urens had likewise grown to the height of thirty two feet; the circumference of its stem at six inches from the ground is three feet three inches, gradually tapering towards the top. Cycas circinalis, fourteen feet in height and very healthy; the Corypha umbraculifera twenty four feet in height, a very beautiful palm; and a very fine specimen of the Latania rubra, the Carolina princeps, had reached the top of the house, and had been cut back. Numerous other species were here in a very healthy state, and a very extensive collection of Cape and New Holland plants. This extensive range is handsomely finished with cut stone parapet walls, and projecting cornice over the top lights. There is another range about one hundred and thirty feet long, with span roof, separate from the principal range, in which are cultivated pines, bulbs, and various other plants. In front of these ranges of hothouses is a large lawn, with several clumps of the different species of hardy plants, which are also extensively cultivated in this establishment. A handsome temple is situated at a short distance from the gardens, which is surrounded by water, from this temple diverge seven fine beech and horse-chesnut avenues, looking in as many directions; between each are smaller avenues parallel to them, which are terminated by handsome stone vases. At a short distance from the avenues is the orangery, which is of large dimensions, with an opaque roof; The orange trees were very healthy, and formed an avenue in front of the house. M. Bedinghans, the gardener, informed me that they only shifted them once in five years, in a mixture of loam and leaf-mould, with a little cow-dung intermixed. At the back of the orangery are several arched walks, formed by hornbeam hedges, with arborial windows cut in them; they form a pleasant and shady promenade during the summer months. The park is also very extensive and considerably varied in its surface.

M. Bedinghans is a native of Germany, and a very intelligent young man, seemingly much attached to his business. He accompanied me to the nursery garden of M. Parmentier, which is situated in the town of Enghien. In this establishment, there is a celebrated collection of plants, amongst which I observed a fine specimen of the Melocactus mitriformis which measured three feet in circumference, and eighteen inches in height; and Melocactus hystrix also a very fine plant. The Echinocactus boutillieri, is a beautiful specimen; Cereus bonplandia, Mammillaria acanthoplegma, melocactus macrocanthus; for a plant of this latter species M. Parmentier asked three hundred francs. The Zamia furfuracea is also very fine; as well as beautiful specimens of the following, Wallichia caryotoides, Borassus flabelliformis, Latania glaucophylla, Pandanus turbinatus, amaryllifolius, fœtidus, bromelifolius, glaucus, candalabrium. The pinus Damara M. Parmentier valued at fifty guineas, and the Magnolia plumieri, from the Island of St. Domingo, at eighty guineas: the Butea superba a fine plant, and fine specimens of the following species: Sterculia villosa, Stanhopea occulenta, Careya sphærica, Theoprastus Americanus, Gesnera barbata, Boronia grandiceps, Pinus pinnata, and Mexicana; with numerous other rare species. Above four hundred sorts of Camellias, and upwards of five hundred kinds of Cacteæ, are cultivated in this fine collection.

The hothouses are very extensive, but getting rather into a decayed state, and are not kept in good repair. After visiting this establishment, I started by the diligence for Brussells, where I arrived in time to see a splendid display of fireworks, which was exhibited about ten o'clock; the town was likewise brilliantly illuminated in celebration of the late revolution. It contains a number of fine capacious streets, and well built houses. In the course of the present year, 1835, it was stated that not less than thirty thousand strangers had visited Brussells.

Sept. 27th. Having a letter of introduction from His Excellency Lord G. W. Russell to Sir George Hamilton, I waited on him this morning; and afterwards proceeded to visit several of the churches; amongst which was the celebrated Notre-Dame-de-la-Chapelle, which is a beautiful Gothic structure. The marble altar, which is executed from the designs of Rubens, is extremely beautiful, as is likewise the pulpit. St. Michael's church is also a fine Gothic building. I visited this in the evening, whilst they were engaged singing, and various clergymen were then present. This ancient structure is richly ornamented with beautiful pictures and painted glass windows. The oak pulpit attracts much attention on account of the richness of its carving, which represents the expulsion of Adam and Eve.

I also visited the Duke d'Aremberg's town-house, which is much celebrated for its library and Antiquities, and contains several fine paintings in the various apartments, together with a collection of Etruscan vases, and a head of Laocoon. Attached to this mansion his grace has a very fine riding-house, where several paintings were deposited. I next proceeded to see a representation of St. Petersburgh, which was then exhibiting in Brussells, consisting of a model of the various streets, squares, houses and gardens of that splendid city, which appeared to attract many visitors.

I proceeded in the afternoon to the Botanic Garden; but as it was wet I was unable to find any one to accompany me through the grounds, owing to the absence of the gardener; I therefore deferred going through them until a better opportunity, when I paid them another visit.

Sept. 28th. Started at six o'clock in the morning by diligence for Waterloo, where we arrived at half-past eight; and having procured a guide, I was conducted over this celebrated field of action, which is now all under a fine system of agriculture. I proceeded to the noted chateau at Hougoumont, which is enclosed by a brick wall, and still exhibits the marks of bullets. About the centre of the field of battle is a large mount, raised in commemoration of that eventful day; it measures 1680 feet in circumference at the base, and is about 200 feet high. On the top is placed the Belgic Lion, said to weigh 48,000 lbs.

On my return through the little village of Waterloo, I visited the church, which contains a large number of tombs, in memory of the British officers who fell in the field of battle.

I got back to Brussells about one o'clock, when I proceeded to the palace of Lacken, and having a letter of introduction to the gardener, from Mr. M'Intosh at Claremont, ready access was obtained to the gardens and grounds attached to this royal residence.

The palace stands on an eminence, commanding a fine view of Brussells and the adjoining country, particularly towards the south. The Antwerp road leading to Brussells is very conspicuous from several points of view from the grounds. From the palace towards the south the pleasure ground falls very considerably, and is much varied in surface, with several very pretty vistas, intersected by numerous walks, leading to different objects of interest. A large sheet of water, which appears in view from the palace windows, as well as from several other points in the grounds, forms a very pretty feature: over a part of this lake a fine wooden bridge crosses to a small island, and at the other extremity is a large grotto, formed by very large rough stones. Various improvements are in constant progress in the pleasure-ground, the whole of which is kept in very good order, a circumstance of rare occurrence in Belgium. Two fine hothouses for plants have been erected during the last two years, from plans furnished by Mr. M'Intosh, the gardener at Claremont, who has also superintended the erection of several pine-pits, and contemplates the addition of an extensive range of forcing-houses at the King's palace of Lacken. From Mr. M'Intosh's well known abilities as a scientific and practical gardener, the superintendance could not be entrusted to a more suitable person.

The houses lately erected there are very neatly finished, and well adapted to their purpose, as well as the pine pits; the pine-apples grown here by M. Forkhall, the gardener at Lacken, were superior to any that I had previously met with on the continent. The young plants were also clean and healthy, and the exotic plants were in a very flourishing state, many of them in fine flower. There is likewise an extensive orangery, with a fine collection of healthy trees, which are much cultivated in Belgium, as well as in Germany. Near the orange-house were several clumps of flowering plants, amongst them some fine varieties of the dahlia. His Majesty's taste for plants and horticultural pursuits has not abated since he came to the throne; consequently numerous good plants are daily added to his collection. I observed a fine specimen of the Kœlreuteria paniculata, in fine flower, the Catalpa syringifolia in great beauty, and several other fine growing hardy species.

Sept. 29th. Left Brussells, for baron de Hoogarts's, which is about nine English miles from the town, and whose garden contains several hothouses, in which are forced pines, grapes, and peaches. There are likewise several low pits for the cultivation of the pine, vine and peach. The pit used here for accelerating the peach, is nine feet wide, and the back wall five feet above the ground level; the front wall is only twenty one inches high, above the level of the ground, and consists of brick piers, with wood boards betwixt them, which are taken out, when the trees are removed or introduced into these pits, which operation is generally performed annually. Towards the back, is a flue for giving heat, which is applied as well as that from dung, for the forwarding of the fruit. There is also here a good kitchen garden, with a high circular wall, well stocked with good peach, apricot and pear-trees; amongst the latter I observed the Beurre dore very fine, Glout Morceau, Cuisse Madame, also fine showy fruits and prolific bearers, the poire de melon, cale basse were likewise fine fruit, and producing great crops. A fine collection of the standard pears, was also growing in this garden. Adjoining to it is situated the orangery, which stands on an eminence, and commands a pretty view of the grounds, and sheet of water. There is likewise a good collection of Cape and other plants from Botany Bay, and several clumps of rhododendrons throughout the grounds in a flourishing state. The park is but of limited extent, considerably varied.

Adjoining to baron de Hoogart's, is the seat of count de Beaufforts, to which Miss Hoogart had the goodness to send their gardener to accompany me. At this place is an old castle, situated by the side of a lake which was undergoing great alterations and additions.

The grounds attached to this ancient castle, although of limited extent, are much varied, and prettily planted, with different clumps of trees and shrubs dispersed through them. In the kitchen garden is a very handsome range of hothouses, about 120 feet in length, chiefly occupied with plants; one of the divisions is allotted for the pine apple, and in front of the range are also several pits, for pines, vines, and peaches. The pits used for the forcing of the vine and peach have each a flue that runs parallel to the back wall, and about eighteen inches from it. The front of those for the vine and peach has no front wall, only piers and boards fixed betwixt them, for the facility of removing and taking in the trees, which are planted betwixt the piers, when the boards are again placed in their former position over the stem of the trees, the roots running in a border on the outside of the pit.

On my return in the afternoon to Brussels, I visited the Museum, the collection in which is well deserving of notice; there is a numerous variety of insects, a large collection of birds and animals, as well as minerals.

The picture gallery is a fine apartment, situated in the same building, and contains a large number of splendid paintings; a very magnificent painting of the Belgic revolution, which nearly covered the entire end of the gallery, was exhibiting, and seemed to attract a vast number of visitors. In another wing of the building is a repository of the various articles of Belgic manufacture, which was much crowded by spectators. I should imagine from the appearance of the numerous articles of commerce exhibited in these apartments that there can scarcely be a single article of manufacture that is not to be met with in this repository of commerce.

Having a letter of introduction from Mr. M'Intosh to Mr. Bigwood, a partner of Mr. Salter, the banker, in Brussells, I called on him in the evening, when he very kindly accompanied me to several of the diligence offices, and pointed out to me the best routes to take in order to save time; I then engaged a place for Paris for the following Saturday—a precaution found necessary, owing to the number of strangers then in Brussells; some of whom it was understood had been detained for several days in consequence of the diligences being so crowded. I also took a place for Ghent, the next town I intended visiting, which is situated about twenty-four miles from Brussells.

Sept. 30th. Immediately on my arrival at Ghent I proceeded to the nursery garden of M. Vangeert, which contains several hothouses, and a good collection of plants; there are also in this nursery several pits for the dwarf growing species; a good collection of Camellias appeared to be grown here, and also some Cacteæ and orchideous plants, with some Magnolias new to our English collections. The Ghent Azaleas have now become celebrated for the profusion of their flowers and various colours; they were in great abundance in the nurseries here, beset with flower buds. The Magnolia conspicua and Magnolia norbertiana are fine specimens. The soil in the vicinity of Ghent appears peculiarly adapted for the Magnolia, Azalea, and other American plants.

I next visited the nursery of M. Verleeuwen, which contains about two English acres of ground, and from eight to ten different small hothouses, with a fine collection of plants, that were all very well grown. A choice collection of Camellias is also cultivated here, as well as Azaleas, Rhododendrons, and other hardy plants well worthy of notice.

I then proceeded to the Ghent Botanic Garden, but was unfortunate in not finding M. Donkelar (the gardener) at home; this garden appeared to contain only from two to three English acres of ground: it is too much crowded with large trees and shrubs for so confined a space. There are two hothouses devoted to the growth of tropical plants which were in a very flourishing state, but deficient of the more showy and new species of late introduction. The orangery is a large building, with Ionic columns and dark roofs; the trees appeared very healthy. There are also some low houses, or rather pits, in front of the principal range, which were well stocked with pines and low growing plants.

I next visited the nursery grounds of M. A. Verschaffelt, which are more extensive than any of the other nurseries I had yet seen, and contain about the best collection of plants in Ghent; he has some fine Magnolias, amongst which I observed the Magnolia triumphans, Glauca, Arborea, and Gigantea. His collection of Camellias is also very choice and deserving of notice, amongst which were the Camellia compacta-rubra, Alexandria, and Magnificum; a plant of this species he values at one hundred francs. There are also many other choice sorts; and his collection of Cape and New-Holland plants is likewise extensive: he is forming a collection of Orchideæ, and has erected a small house for their growth; he has likewise a good collection of Cacteæ, a choice assortment of the Ghent Azaleas, and other hardy plants, that appear to flourish well in Belgium.

The nursery I next visited was that of M. Verschaffelt, sen., which appeared to be about an acre of ground, but it contained a good assortment of Rhododendrons, also a large green-house with span-roof, as well as several other small houses; a great stock of myrtles was likewise cultivated in this establishment. I next proceeded to the nursery of F. J. Spæ-fils, which contains about two acres and a half, with a range of hothouses one hundred and fifty feet long. I here observed a large stock of seedling Azaleas and Kalmias, also a well-stocked wall of trained peach trees. The standard fruit trees are also extensively cultivated, the situation being evidently well calculated for the growth of the different plants in demand in that country. After leaving this nursery I went to that of M. P. Byls, whose ground contains several small hothouses, but little of novelty in them; a few good hardy shrubs were, however, in the grounds. Attached to this nursery is a piece of ground under vegetable cultivation, which is extensively pursued in the neighbourhood of Ghent. I visited one or two other nurseries of small extent, but met with nothing of much importance in them, as they were more limited than either of those mentioned.

The cathedral of Ghent is considered one of the most handsome Gothic buildings in Belgium. The pulpit is a most beautiful specimen of workmanship, and is composed of white marble and richly-carved oak; near the great altar are magnificent antique candelabras, said formerly to have belonged to Charles the First of England, and were suspended in the old church of St. Paul's in London. Amongst the splendid paintings that ornament this cathedral are Lazarus rising from the dead, by Otto Vennius, St. John the Baptist, the Virgin Mary, and the Paschal Lamb. Our Saviour is also represented on a throne holding a crystal sceptre. There are likewise two marble statues that represent the Apostles St. Paul and St. Peter, and numerous other beautiful paintings.

I took my departure at ten o'clock for Antwerp, where we arrived at six the following morning.

Oct. 1. Immediately on my arrival I proceeded to the top of the Antwerp steeple, or tower, which consists of six hundred and twenty two steps, and is four hundred and sixty-six feet in height, from the top of which a beautiful view of the town is seen, and a vast extent of fertile country. The Island of Walcheren and some of the Dutch steeples were pointed out to me in the distance. The citadel, which now appears to be all covered with grass, is very plainly seen from the top of this steeple, and the number of vessels in the Scheldt add life to the scene. The cathedral is reckoned one of the finest Gothic buildings in Europe; the interior is superb, and richly ornamented by the magnificent paintings of Rubens. I observed numerous very splendid marble columns. The altar is executed with marble, and ornamented with a representation of the Assumption. There is also a splendid painting of the Disciples at Emmaus, by Herreyns, portraits of Luther and Calvin, and numerous other celebrated objects, which to attempt to particularize would require one more intimately acquainted with the subject than I can pretend to be. The painted windows are equally elegant.

I next visited St. James's Church, which is a very splendid building, and richly decorated with fine paintings and superb marble columns; the altar is inlaid with black and white marble, and supported by handsome twisted columns, and various groups of sculpture. The pulpit is most elegantly sculptured, and the beautiful specimens of carved oak are deserving of notice, as likewise is the splendour of the painted windows. There is also a fine picture of the Last Supper, by Otto Vennius, one of the Last Judgment, by Willemsen, the Tomb of Rubens, and a painting by him, of our Saviour on his mother's knees, surrounded by a number of figures, all of which are said to be portraits of the painter's wives and family. After seeing these two magnificent churches, I proceeded to the nursery garden of M. Vangeert, which is situated about two English miles from the city; it contains a very good collection of hardy perennial plants, as well as Azaleas and other American shrubs. The hothouses here are about one hundred and fifty feet long, in several divisions, and a good-sized pit for the half-hardy sorts. I here observed the best crop and finest bunches of hothouse grapes that I had previously met with on the continent. I was much indebted to M. Vangeert, jun., for his attention in accompanying me to the various gardens that he considered to be most deserving of notice in the neighbourhood of Antwerp.

We proceeded to the Antwerp Botanic Garden, which is but of limited extent, I think not above an acre of ground in it. There is a green-house placed about the centre of the garden, but its occupants appeared to be of rather distant introduction, and little amongst them of novelty except a very fine specimen of the Araucaria Braziliensis, which was growing in a tub, and then standing out of doors.

There were likewise two or three other small houses for tropical plants, which were in a very flourishing state, particularly those cultivated in the stove.

They have in this garden a tolerably good collection of the Genus Pinus, amongst which is a dwarf sort, named there the Pinus monstrosa, but it appears to be only a variety of the Pinus cembra. It formed a very close bush, not exceeding two feet in height.

The next garden we visited was that of the late M. Jean Veanhal, which, during his time, was much celebrated for rare and good plants. Although there was but a small piece of ground in this garden, yet it contained a good collection, and several very good hothouses, in which were cultivated pine-apples and other tropical plants, which were in a very flourishing state, and the whole neatly kept.

We next proceeded to M. Moen's nursery ground, which is also but of limited extent, but contains a number of good Magnolias, Azaleas, and other hardy plants, as well as many good greenhouse species. In this nursery there is a fine collection of Camellias. M. Moen informed me he had about two hundred seedling varieties and species. I saw here a fine specimen of the Camellia reticulata, about five feet high; M. Moen valued this plant at sixty guineas. There are some pretty good greenhouses in this nursery, also a good collection of pears that were in full bearing, and producing fine crops.

We proceeded next to the seat of M. Caters De-wolfe, which is several miles from Antwerp; the grounds attached to this residence are prettily laid out, particularly a sheet of water, which is amongst the best I have seen; it is formed so as to produce a picturesque effect from several points of view. At a contracted part of it a wooden bridge is constructed across, springing on both sides on elevated well-formed artificial pieces of rockwork. In the pleasure ground are three very pretty curvilinear iron-bar hothouses, erected by Baily, of London, and devoted to the growth of exotic plants and pine-apples, which evidently fully answered in that climate their intended purpose. Here is also a good kitchen garden, with numerous low houses and pits for the growth of the pine, vine and peach, as well as one devoted to orchideous plants, a collection of which was just then forming. The pines and exotic plants in this establishment were all in a very flourishing state, and the gardens in pretty fair keeping.

We next proceeded to the seat of Le Chevalier Parthon Divan, whom I found devotedly attached to horticultural pursuits. The grounds attached to his château are very prettily formed, and are situated about four English miles from Antwerp. This gentleman pointed out to me the Rhododendron ferrugineum, with white flowers, which I believe is hardly to be met with in any other collection. He has many good and rare species of greenhouse plants. I saw from five to seven species of Scotia, also a fine specimen of the Scotia angustata; a collection of Orchideæ is also cultivated here; and he has lately introduced many new and curious species of this tribe of plants, as well as some new Cacteæ. The variety of dahlias cultivated here was particularly fine; a very complete arrangement of herbaceous plants growing along the face of a bank in their natural arrangement forms also an interesting feature in these grounds, the exterior of which is bounded by a plantation, in which are formed various beech avenues. This gentleman disposes of his duplicate plants to any one who will purchase them, but did not seem inclined to make any exchanges.

We next visited the gardens of Madame Smetz, which are situated about four miles from the last place. These grounds are celebrated for their extent of hot houses and other garden ornaments, which may justly entitle them to be considered as presenting a greater variety of picturesque objects than any garden in Belgium. There is a very good greenhouse, with a pretty fair collection of plants in very neat order, and a corresponding house for the growth of stove plants. I here observed the Pandanus odoratissimus, fifteen feet high, with four large branches diverging from it. A large orangery, that runs parallel to the north ends of the stove and greenhouse, forms a centre betwixt the two latter buildings, that appear like two projecting wings to the orange-house; there are also several low houses and pits for pines, vines, and peaches. The pines in these gardens were amongst the best grown that I had previously met with on the continent. I observed a plant with seven fruits on it all branching from the top of a single stem. There were also some very fine dwarf cockscombs growing in a pit.

The superb Chinese tower is more deserving of notice than anything of the kind that I have yet seen, being of a considerable height, from sixty to eighty feet I should imagine from its appearance, with a handsome staircase leading to the top, from whence there is a fine prospect of these extensive grounds, which are curiously laid out; in this Chinese building a couple of handsomely fitted up rooms are occasionally used for taking tea or coffee.

There are numerous walks leading through various parts of the grounds to secluded spots, where we come unexpectedly on groups of figures in stone, such, for instance, as a group of boys at play, figures of old men, and groups of sheep grazing in the grounds, which are very naturally executed, and at a short distance formed a very good deception; there are also numerous marble busts and pieces of sculpture. A sheet of water, with rock-work and a wooden bridge, appear prominent objects from the Chinese temple. Opposite to the south and north sides of the mansion are curiously clipped box hedges, with pyramidal formed bushes on their top; the intervening spaces being clipped into irregular figures, presenting a curious appearance. A rock bridge, over the narrow part of a sheet of water, is deserving of notice; but the wooden bridges here and elsewhere in Belgium are made more for the intention of permitting ships to pass under them, than for the ease of the visitors in walking over them. I also observed several painted arbours and recesses in different parts of the grounds, and one of the finest specimens of the purple beech that I have ever seen, which is a truly magnificent tree. The kitchen cropping, such as cabbages, asparagus, &c., being carried close up to the house, is in very bad taste; these vegetables all appearing in view from the principal windows do not harmonize with the ornamented ground, which, in such an extensive piece, might easily be cultivated in a much more appropriate spot.

Oct. 2nd. Left Antwerp at six o'clock a.m., passing through a beautiful fertile country, which abounds in vegetable and other green crops; we arrived at Malines about eight o'clock; it contains about twenty thousand inhabitants, and has some pretty churches, and an ancient cathedral. The rail-road from Brussels to Malines had been completed for some time, and was expected to be finished as far as Antwerp by the end of another month, and to proceed from hence to Paris. At Malines I quitted my tedious mode of conveyance for the rail road—a much more pleasant and expeditious mode of travelling. We were about forty minutes going by it the distance of twelve English miles; a heavy train of carriages and a strong wind right ahead, prevented our accomplishing the distance in the usual time, which was said in general to occupy the space of from twenty to thirty minutes.

On my arrival at Brussells I proceeded to the establishment of M. J. F. Vandermaelen, which consists of an extensive collection of geographical books, minerals, birds, insects, and plants, from various climates, which this gentleman offers for mutual exchanges, with the view of furthering the interests of science and natural history.

The grounds attached to it are rather confined, but prettily varied, with water, and rising and undulating ground. There are also several very good hothouses, and a choice collection of plants. M. Vandermaelen's catalogue enumerates nearly two hundred and forty sorts of Camellias and above four hundred and fifty sorts of Pelargoniums. I here observed a specimen of the Cactus senilis, about two feet in height; several other very fine and curious species were likewise to be seen here. M. Vandermaelen has also sent out a collector in search of Cacteæ and other orchideous plants.

I next proceeded to the Brussells Botanic Garden, which contains the most ornamental range of hothouses that I have seen, and some noble specimens of palms. The Caryota urens about forty-five feet high, its girth at eighteen inches from the ground, four feet. The Arenga saccharifera and the Carica Papaya both forty feet in height. The Elate sylvestris had also reached to the glass. The Latania borbonia, about eighteen feet high, the fronds spreading in the like proportion. The Pandanus odoratissimus, a fine specimen, and various other species equally luxuriant. This magnificent range of plant houses are all heated with steam, and the sash bars formed of wrought iron;—the effect of it from the Boulevards is really grand. The principal range being situated on a terrace, with several fountains and broad flights of steps in front of it, has a very imposing appearance; on a lower level in front of these houses and terrace, are two ranges constructed with curvilinear iron bars, which are occupied by pine-apple plants and other dwarf tropical species. Opposite to the hothouses are the herbaceous grounds, which are laid out in a circular form, divided in small divisions, for the Linnean arrangement of the hardy perennial plants, each class forming a separate piece of ground radiating from the centre. This garden consists of a fine irregular piece of ground, and is much varied in its surface, having five different levels, and is placed in a fine situation; but I regretted to see the ground occupied by a quantity of common forest trees and shrubs, and but little of novelty or good plants in it: the common sorts were grown principally for sale, and for the support of the garden, which practice I understood was extensively adopted in this establishment. The hothouse and greenhouse species were ticketed with the price required for the different plants.

I next called on Mr. Bigwood, who kindly procured me a sight of the Prince of Orange's splendid residence, which is justly considered one of the finest finished palaces in Europe, with most beautiful polished oak floors, and the walls of several of the apartments inlaid with marble: in one of the rooms that belonged to the princess is a table of Siberian lapis lazuli, valued at fifty thousand pounds. The chairs, tables, paintings, and other superb furniture in the interior of this palace, with its magnificent staircase, are beyond my powers of description.

The park at Brussells is situated in front of the king's palace, and is said to contain about fourteen acres of ground, which are laid out as a public promenade for the inhabitants, with several avenues, and various groups of sculpture, which are considered of superior execution, especially the statues of Alexander the Great, and Cleopatra, and the groups of Diana, Apollo, Narcissus, and Venus. In the avenue fronting the king's palace are statues of the twelve Roman emperors, and a fountain, which throws the water from twelve to fifteen feet high.

I proceeded next to Louvain. The entrance to Brussells from the Louvain gate is very fine, and commands extensive views of the adjacent country, as well as a part of the town. The small villas leading from this entrance towards Louvain are handsomely ornamented with tastefully planted gardens; the road, winding along through a fine agricultural country, is more varied than in the Antwerp district; the soil consisting of a deep red loam, produces abundantly red clover, rape, and other green crops.

October 3rd. The town of Louvain is situated on the river Dyle, which runs through it. The grand appearance of the Stadt-huis, or now police-office, is very imposing; the numerous carved figures and spires that adorn the front are beautiful specimens of workmanship: in the interior a large apartment is occupied as a picture gallery, in which are deposited some very fine old paintings: the wainscot ceilings of some of the rooms are also well worthy of notice.

There are likewise several churches in this town, which are richly ornamented with paintings and other costly decorations, such as marble columns.

The botanic garden adjoins the town, and contains from two to three acres of ground; the space in front of the range of hot houses is occupied with a collection of hardy perennial plants, and the exterior of the garden planted by trees and shrubs. The range of plant houses consists of a long dark-roofed green house, with a circular stove projecting in front of it at each end, which has a very good effect; these stoves are constructed with iron bars, and appeared to stand remarkably well; in one of them was a very fine specimen of the Latania rubra, which was in great luxuriance; the Maxillaria Harrissonia, was quite covered with large flowers. The Cactus Macrocanthus, was here four feet in circumference; several other species were also very fine; in short, the whole collection were in a healthy and flourishing state. I found M. Donkelar, the gardener, to be a very intelligent young man, devotedly attached to his business.

I next proceeded to see the collection of fruits and trees at professor Van Mons, where I was shewn a large assortment of pears, which the professor had raised from seed, also many sorts of apples, and several good seedling grapes and peaches. The professor has long been distinguished for his attachment to horticultural pursuits; but I unfortunately did not find him at home; he has, however, forwarded to me, since my return home, his "Arbres Fruitiers," which describes many of the fruits cultivated in Belgium. I was much gratified by the fine collection of pears in the fruit room, and the fine healthy trees in the professor's gardens, which are well stocked with seedlings, as well as others in a bearing state.

I next proceeded to the duke d'Aremberg's, which is situated at a short distance from Louvain, having a letter of introduction from Sir R. Adair, to his highness, whom I found particularly attached to botany and horticultural pursuits. The kitchen garden here is very extensive, and large quantities of vegetables are cultivated; several pits for the growth of the pine and peach were also in this establishment; but the collection of choice pears pleased me more than any I had previously seen, and certainly produced very fine fruit; the following sorts were pointed out to me as the best deserving of cultivation, which were then in the fruit room.

Beurre Wirtemberg Beurre D'Hiver Colmar Jaminette

Grande Bretagne Double d'Automne Beurre d'Angleterre

Sucre-Vert Comperete Bergamotte de paques

Beurre rance Kanneck St. Germain

Beey vaet Passe Colmar Roi de Louvain

Beurre bosque Bezyda Chaumontelle Beurre d'Aremberg

Bergamotte de la Penticote Fondante De Charnusee Beurre de yelle

St. Bernard

and many other sorts, and fine collections of apples which were also extensively grown here. I also observed a very fine collection of seedling dahlias, many of which were very choice flowers, and formed a gay appearance in the kitchen garden borders in this season. His highness pointed out to me a noble specimen of the Platanus accidentalis, which measured, at four feet from the ground, thirteen feet in circumference, and its branches spreading over a space of ground twenty two yards in diameter; this was a beautiful grown tree, and appeared in great luxuriance.

The grounds attached to this ancient mansion are very extensive, and have several fine straight avenue walks, leading in various directions, one of which is formed by the purple beech planted on each side of the walk for a considerable distance; but this being a very wet forenoon, I was unable to see the grounds to advantage. They are a little varied as we approach the house, and a small stream of water enlivened the scenery: they appeared to me, however, of much less extent than his highness's grounds and park at Enghien, where his splendid range of plant-houses and extensive collection of plants are fixed and deposited.

I left Louvain about four o'clock, and arrived in Brussells just in time to get my luggage taken to the diligence office, from whence the diligence started at half-past nine o'clock for Paris.

Oct. 4th. Arrived at Valenciennes, a good sized town: here another passport was furnished, and my former one taken from me, and retained by the police until the evening I left Paris. The country between Brussells and Valenciennes, as far as I could observe, appeared to be of considerable sameness, but the ground was well cultivated, with good crops of rape clover; the turnip was evidently a failure here, and in other parts of the continent, as well as in England.

We arrived at Cambray at two o'clock, a strong fortified town. The country from Brussells hitherto appeared to be but very thinly planted, and of little picturesque scenery: as we approached Paris there appeared very few plantations or trees worthy of notice, and much less variety of scenery than I passed through in the latter part of my tour through Germany.

Oct. 5th. Arrived at Paris at half-past ten o'clock, a.m. after a ride of twenty-four hours. On my arrival I proceeded to the Gardens of the Tuilleries, where there is a large collection of orange trees, and several capacious gravel walks, or avenues, with numerous ornamental groups of sculpture. A space of ground, running parallel to the palace, about sixty yards wide, has been lately laid out with flower borders, and is separated from the public promenade by a grass ha-ha, with a slight wire fence on the top of it; in this inclosure are some very fine orange trees, bronze figures, and ornamental sculpture, arranged along the edges of the walks.