INDEX

Ȧāh-Ḥetep, 3, 5 À Becket, Thomas. See Thomas à Becket Aberford (Yorks), 72 Abingdon brooch, 60 Acorn-shaped pendants, Phoenician, 10 Acorn-shaped pendants, worn by Henry VIII, 206 Acton, John, 302, 304 Acus, xli, xlii, 60, 127 Adalbert of Saxony, 137 Adams (potter), 315 Adriatic, 83 " jewellery, 246, 347 Ægean, 12 Ægides, 6 Aetites, 122 Aglets, 268-9 Agnus Dei, 72, 122 Agnolo, Luca, 185 Agrafes, 140 Aigrettes, Hungarian, 198 " jewelled, 230, 231 " " sockets for, 230 " 17 cent., 230, 231, 281, 290, 291, 303 " 18 cent., 309, 312, 316, 317 Aigulets, 268 Aix-la-Chapelle, Treasury, 118, 139 Albacete, 9 Albert V, Duke of Bavaria, 194 " VI, Duke of Bavaria, 248 Albini, D. M., 309 Alciatus, A., 223 Aldegrever, H., 185, 193, 194, 250, 259 Alençon, Pierre d', 343, 357 Alexandria, 93 Alfonso I, Duke of Ferrara, 158 " II, Duke of Ferrara, 292 Alfred the Great, 68, 69, 71 " Jewel, 68, 69 Algeria, Celtic brooch in, 76 Algerian women, head-ornaments of, 9 Alhstan, Bishop of Sherborne, 71 Alicante, 9 Allori, Alessandro, 350 Altdorfer, A., 189 Altoetting (Bavaria), 88 Amadas, Robert, 208 Ambassadors, jewellery given to, Eng., 17 cent., 306 Amber in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58 " in ancient Irish jewellery, 42 " in German peasant jewellery, 346 " in early Italian jewellery, 24 " in prehistoric jewellery, 39 " in Roman jewellery, 30 " in Romano-British jewellery, 45 Ambergris, 125 n. Amboise, Cardinal d', 199 Amethystine quartz, beads of, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58 Amethysts, 19 cent., 328, 329 Amman, Jost, 270 Amourette, 146 Amphoræ, 8, 10 Amphora-shaped ornaments, Greek, 16 Amsterdam, Charles I's jewellery sent over to, 305 Amulets, Egyptian, 2 " Etruscan, 25 " medl., 103, 122, 132 " in medl. rings, 151 " Roman, 29, 32 " Romano-British, 47 Ananizapta, 152 Androuet Ducerceau, J., 201, 219, 241, 246, 265, 269 Angell, John, 208 Angles, 56 Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 51, 56-74 Ankles, rings for, 6 Ann Boleyn, Q. of England, 212 Anne of Austria, wife of Albert V, Duke of Bavaria, 195 " of Bohemia, Q. of England, 141 " of Denmark, Q. of England, 268, 301 Annunciation, on medl. morses, 139 " on Renaiss. pendants, 244-5 Anselm, 92 Anthony, Dericke, 220 Antioch, sack of, 33 Antonio di Girolamo, 175 Antwerp, corporation of goldsmiths, 155 " engravers of designs for jewellery, 196 " Hans of. See Hans. " Museum, 227 n. " port of, 16 cent., 167 Annulus vertuosus, 147 Aphrodite, 28 Arabella Stuart, 299 Arabs in Spain and Sicily, 84 Ardagh chalice, 66 Ark on Elizabethan jewellery, 255, 256 Armada jewels, 217, 255 Armagnacs, badge of, 110 Armento, 16 Armillæ, ancient British, 41 " Roman, 30 Armlet, Hunsdon, 218 Armlets, xliv " ancient Irish, 42 " medl., 157-8 " Roman, 30 " Romano-British, 47 Arphe, Juan de, 202 Arrow heads, prehistoric, as charms, in Etruscan jewellery, 25 " " " medl. jewellery, 122 Art Nouveau, 337, 338 Arundel, Eleanor, Countess of, 113 Ashbee, C. R., 339 Ashmole, Elias, 238 Ashmolean Museum. See Oxford Asia Minor, 8, 14 Assyria, 7, 8 Assyrian art, 12 Athelney, Isle of, 68 Athene, 16 Athens, National Museum, 11 Attavante, M., 175 Augsburg, goldsmiths, 192 " jewellery made at, 202, 203, 205 " in 16 cent., 180, 189, 198, 210 Augustine, St., 65, 66 Augustus, Emperor, cameo of, 103 " II, Elector of Saxony, 310, 311 Aulmonière, 165 Autun, Gallo-Roman enamelled jewellery found at, 46 Auvergne, peasant jewellery, 342-3

Babelon, E. C. F, 266 Bacchus, 24 Backwell, Edward, 305 Bacon, Sir F., 100 Bactria, 51 Baden, Margraves of, 250, 261 Badges, 116, 365 " for hats, medl., 107-12 " English, 16-17 cent., 257 " pendent, medl. 110 " " Spanish, 17 cent., 204 Bags, at girdles, Anglo-Saxon, 63 Bague, 258 Bagues à trois grains, 73 Bain, P., 282 Baldrick, 93, 164 Baldung, Hans. See Grien Baldwin, K. of Jerusalem, 119 Baltic, amber from, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58 Balzac, H. de, 331 Bandeau, French, 19 cent., 329 " Italian, 15 cent., 107 Bannatyne Club, 220 Bapst, G., 335 Barbarian tribes, migrations of, 49 Barbaric jewellery of Europe, 49-55 Barbor jewel, 218, 254 " William, 254 Barcelona, goldsmiths of, 202, 204 Barclay, A., 236 Baroncelli, Pierantonio, Maria, wife of, 114, 286 Barnfield, R., 265 Barrows, or graves, Anglo-Saxon, 57 Bars of girdles, medl., 162 n. Basalt, 5 Basil, xlv Basil the Macedonian, Emperor, 34 Basle, Historical Museum, 192 Basse-taille enamel. See Enamel Bast, 6 Batrachites, 151 Battersea enamel, 320 Bauer, Hermann, 339 Baumann, D., 309 Bavaria, Dukes of, 194, 248 Bavarian National Museum. See Munich Baudrier, 164 Beaded work, 19 cent., 327 Beads, Anglo-Saxon, 58 " or balls of gold, on Anglo-Saxon rings, 73 " ancient British, 40 " " Irish, 42 " Egyptian, 4-6 " filigree, for perfumes, 265 " glass, Romano-British, 45 " jet, Romano-British, 47 " Phoenician, 10 " Roman, 29 " rosary, 124-5 Beatrice D'Este, Duchess of Milan, 172 Beams, of gypcières, 165 Beaumont and Fletcher (quoted), 265 Bede, The Venerable, 67 Bees, gold, jewelled, 53 Belgium, peasant jewellery, 345-6 Belisarius, 33 Bells, hung from medl. girdles, 164 " " Renaiss. pendants, 250 Belts, xlv, xlvi " Anglo-Saxon, 63 " medl., 159-65 " " resemblence to fillets, 105 " military, medl., 163-4 Bentzen, J., 284 Berengaria, of Navarre, Q. of England, xliii, 128 Beresford-Hope cross, 36 Berghem, Louis de, 209, 277 Berkeley Castle, 73, 218, 253, 265, 266 " Elizabeth, Lady, dau. of Lord Hunsdon, 218 " family, 274 " heirlooms, 218 " Thomas, Lord, 116 Berlin, Crown Treasury, 251 " iron jewellery made in, 330 " Museums, 3, 9, 139 " " pictures in, 90, 106, 168, 261 Bernal, Ralph, 133 Berne, 210 " Museum, 64 Bernhard III, Margrave of Baden, 261 Bettystown, Co. Louth, 78 Betnüsse, 125 Beuvray, Mont, near Autun, 46 Bezel, xlv Bezoar stone, 122 Bibracte, 46 n. Bijouterie, 277 "Billy and Charley," 360 Bilston enamel, 320 Bindesböll, T., 339 Birckenhultz, P., 231, 234, 281 Birds on Teutonic jewellery, 57, 58 " " Renaiss. pendants, 249 Birmingham, steelwork, 315, 319 Bisamapfel, 275 n. Black Sea, 14 Blondus. See Le Blon. Boccardi, Giovanni di Guiliano, 175 Bodkins (hair-pins), Renaiss., 232, 233 Bodleian Library. See Oxford. Boehmer, 318 Boethius, 100 "Boglars," 198 Bohemia, medl. pendants, 121 " Renaiss. jewellery, 188 Boîte à portrait, 320 Bollin, M., 339 Bologna, Church of S. Maria della Misericordia, 170 " Picture Gallery, 170 Bömmel, W. H., 309 Bonny, Louis, 338 Books, pendent to girdle, 272-4 Bordier, P., 304 Bordone, Paris, 263 Borghese, Marie Pauline, Princess, 329 Borgia, Cæsar, 100 Bossange, 318 Bossington (near Stockbridge), 73 Bosworth Jewel, 219 Bothwell, Earl of, 221 Botticelli, Sandro, 169 Boucheron, Messrs., 340 Boulton and Watt, 315 Bourchier, Lord, 110 Bouquet, D., 297 Bouquets, jewelled, 17 cent., 281, 290 " " on the breast, 18 cent., 318 Bouquets d'orfévrerie, 295 Bourdon, Pierre, 309 Bourguet, Jean, 309, 320 Bow, jewelled, on breast, 17 cent., 204, 294 " " " " 18 cent., 308, 318 Bow-shaped brooches, Romano-British, 46 Bowles, Thomas, 310 Boyvin, René, 201, 265 Bracelets, xliv " Byzantine, 37 " clasps, memorial, English, 17-18 cent., 368 " Egyptian, 6 " Etruscan, 25 " Greek, 10 " hair, 19 cent., 331 " ancient Irish, 42 " medl., 157-8 " Renaiss., 264-7 " " designs for, 265, 269 " Roman, 30 " Romano-British, 47 " 17 cent., 294 " 18 cent., 309, 313, 319, 320 " 19 cent., 329 Brachiale, 30 Bracteæ, Greek, 19 Bracteate coins, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59 Bracteates, gold, 13 Brandenburg, Fred. William, Elector of, 238 Brantôme, 181, 200 "Bravery," 299 Braybrooke collection of rings, 264 Brazil diamonds, 351 Breast ornaments, medl., 135, etc. " 17 cent., 204, 294 " 18 cent., 308, 318 Bremen, Kunsthalle, 190 "Brethren," "The Three." See "Brothers" Briceau, 309 Briolettes, 291, 317, 343 Bristol diamond, 259, 357 Britain, invasion of, by Teutonic races, 56 " Roman occupation of, 44 British Isles, prehistoric jewellery, 39 British Museum. See London Britons, 39 Broche, 127 Broighter, near Limavady, 43 Bromsgrove Church, 154 Bronze Age, 39 " ornaments, British, 39, 41, 45 Bronzino, Angelo, 233 Brooches, xl-xliv " Anglo-Saxon, xlii, xliii, 50, 59-62, 70 " Byzantine, 36, 37, 70 " Celtic, xlii-xliv, 74-9, 131 " circular, xlii, xliv " cruciform, xlii, 61 " disc-shaped, xlii, xliii " Flemish-Burgundian, 15 cent., 143-6 " Greek, 18, 19 " hair, 19 cent., 331 " hat, 108. See also Enseignes " by Holbein, 212 " Italian, 15 cent., 174 " Luckenbooth, 133-4, 165 " medl., 121, 127, 144 " " English, 93, 94 " " inscriptions on, 128-30 " " pectorals, 135-46 " memorial, English, 17-18 cent., 368 " penannular, xlii, xliii, 74-9 " radiated, 63 " Renaiss., 267 " ring-brooch, xlii, xliv, xlv, 62, 127-34 " Romano-British, 45-7 " safety-pins, xli-xliii, 41 " Scandinavian, 62 " Scottish, 131-4 " on sleeves, 267 " 17 cent., 298 " 18 cent., 309, 312 " See also Fibulæ Brosamer, Hans, 193, 198, 205, 250 "Brothers," "The Three Brothers," 209, 210, 300 Brueghel, Jan, 287 Bruges, 89, 114, 277 " goldsmith's shop in, 15 cent., 155 " port of, 15 cent., 167 Brunswick, Dorothea, Elizabeth, and Hedwig, Princesses of, 245 Brussels, Musée du Cinquantenaire, 106, 271 " Alexander of, 208 Bruyn, Abraham de. See De Bruyn " Bartholomäus, 189 Bry, Theodor de, 195, 196, 219 Brythons, 39 Bucharest, Museum of Antiquities, 52 Buckingham, George Villiers, Duke of, 210, 230, 235, 300 Buckle, xlv, xlvi " design for, by Aldegrever, 194 " " " " de Bry, 196 " " " " Dürer, 191 " -plate, xlvi, 159, 160 Buckles, Anglo-Saxon, 63 " medl., 159-60 " pinchbeck, 316 " shoe, 18 cent., 321 " steel, 315 " stock, 18 cent., 322 " Teutonic, 64 " 17 cent., 298 " 18 cent., 310, 312, 322 Buda-Pesth, National Museum, 112, 157, 198 Bugles, 10, 319 Bull, H. de. See De Bull Bullæ, Etruscan, 24, 25 " Roman, 29 Bulliot, J. G., 46 n. Buonaparte, Caroline, Q. of Naples, 329 Burgh, Hebert de, 151 Burgkmair, H., 189 Burgundian Court, luxury of, 88-90 Burgundians (Gothic tribe), 50 Burgundy, Dukes of, 88-9, 114, 143 Bussy d'Amboise, 123 n. "Butterflies," 316 Buttons, jet, Romano-British, 47 " memorial, English 17-18 cent., 368 " Renaiss., 267-8 " steel, 315 " 18 cent., 319, 320 Byron, Lord, 331 Byzantine, cloisonné enamel, 66 " influence on medl. jewellery, 83-5, 157 " jewellery, 33-8 Byzantium, 33

C., A., 284 Cabalistic inscriptions on medl. rings, 152 Cabochon stones, 88, 96, 97 Cadboll brooches, 77 Cære, 25 Caillard, J., 282 Caillou d' Alençon, 343 " du Rhin, 357 Cairngorms, 133 Cairo, Museum, 3, 5 Callot, J., 282 Cambridge, Fitzwilliam Museum, 225 " King's College, 115 Camden, W., 94 Cameos, antique, in medl. jewellery, 138 " in bracelets, Renaiss., 264, 266 " in bracelets, 18 cent., 320 " Elizabethan, 217-18 " medl. use of antique, 101-4 " in mourning jewellery, 369 " Renaiss., 226 " " enseignes, 227-8 " " pendants, 245-6 " Roman, 30 " 19 cent., 326-31 Campbells of Glenlyon, 132 Canning, Lord, 249 Canosa, 70 Canterbury Cathedral, 108 n., 109 " " Chapel of St. Thomas à Becket, 140 Canterbury Tales, 161, etc. Cappello, Bianca, 233, 350 Caracts, 132 Caract rings, 152 Caradosso, 168, 227 Caravel, or carvel, 246 Carberry Hill, 221 Carcan, 317 Carcanets, 114 " Renaiss., 239 Carlyle, T., 318 Carmichael, Sir T. D. Gibson, 224 Caroto, G., 172 Carrand Collection. See Florence, Museo Nazionale Carteron, S., 205 Cassel Gallery, 296 Cassolette, 275 n. Castellani, 22, 346, 359 " Alessandro, 333, 334 " Augusto, 333, 334 " Fortunato Pio, 333, 334 " brooch, 70 Cast-iron jewellery, 19 cent., 330-1 Catherine Parr, Q. of England, 252 Caucasus, 50 Cavalcant, John, 208 Ceinture, 105, 159 " ferrée, 161 Ceinturier, 270 Cellini, B., 21, 22, 169, 171, 179, 183-6, 192, 196, 197, 199, 201, 202, 208, 222, 227, 228, 241, 273, 278, 351 Celtic brooch, 74, 75-9, 131 " jewellery, 11, 39 " Period (late), 39, 43 Celts, 40 Cercles, 93, 105 "Cerro de los Santos," 9 Cervetri, 25 Cesarini, Gabriele, 228 Chains, ancient Irish, 43 " Egyptian, 5 " Phoenician, 9 " neck, 19 cent., 331 Chains, worn round the neck. See also Necklaces and Neck-chains Chalke, Agnes, 106 Chamberlain, John, 299 Chamillart, Mdme de, 314, 320 Chansons, 152 Chantilly, 168, 185 Chape of girdle, xlvi, 160, 271 Chapeau montabyn (montauban), 224, 231 Chapelet, 125 Chapeletz, 93, 105 Chaperon, 156, 229 Chaplets, medl., 105 Chardin, Sir John, 278, 305 Charity, figure of, on Renaiss. pendants, 244 Charlemagne, 55, 65, 83, 84, 118 Charles I, K. of England, 210, 219, 230, 288, 300, 304, 305, 354 " I, K. of England, earrings of, 235, 354 " I, K. of England, memorial jewellery of, 367 " II, K. of England, 292, 305 " V, K. of France, 88, 199 " " " cameo of, 103, 130 " VIII, K. of France, 199 " IX " " 199, 200 " the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, 107, 209, 231 " the Great, Emperor of the West. See Charlemagne Charlotte, Q. of England, 313, 317 Charms, 99-104, 111-120 Chartres, Treasury of, 103 Châteaubriand, Countess of, 181 Chatelaines, xlvii " Anglo-Saxon, 63 " medl., 161 " pinchbeck, 316 " 17 cent., 298 " 18 cent., 310, 312, 313, 322, 323 Chaton, xlv Chaucer, 93, 94, 109, 129, 130 n., 164 Chelsea, ring found at, 73 Chepstow, Monmouthshire, 46 Chéron, 314 Chiflet, J. J., 53 Child, Sir Francis, 305, 306 Child's Bank, 306 Childeric I, K. of the Franks, 51, 52, 53 " " ring of, 63 Chlotaire II, K. of the Franks, 59 Christian V, K. of Denmark, 238 Christianity, introduction of, change in jewellery owing to, 65, 66 " introduction of into Ireland, 75 Christie's Auction Rooms, 247, 256 Christina, Q. of Sweden, 284 Christopher, St., 142 Christus, Petrus, 155, 222, 263 Ciampoli, Carlo, 309, 317 Cingulum, 163 Circlets, xxxix " medl., 106 Clanricarde, Marquess of, 249 Clarendon brooch, 78 Clasps, xl " of girdle, xlv, xlvii " " medl., 160, 163 " of mantle, medl., 140, 141 " 17 cent., 298 " 18 cent., 310, 312 Clifford, Lord, 354 Cloth of Gold, Field of, 207, 237 Cloisonné enamel. See Enamel " inlay, 3, 35, 50, 56 Coats-of-arms on rings, 31, 153 Cobra snake, 2 Coello, A. S., 294 Coiffure, Phoenician, 9 " See also Head-ornaments Coins in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59 " in Byzantine jewellery, 36 " in Roman jewellery, 30, 32 Colbert, J. B., 282 Collar, gold, ancient Irish, 43 " of Order of Golden Fleece, 90 " of Lord Mayor of London, 117 " SS collar, 116-17 Collars, Egyptian, 5 " medl., 113-117 " See also Necklaces Collaert, H., 194, 196, 197, 234, 247 Collet, xlv Collier of Marie Antoinette, 318 Cologne Cathedral, 111, 145 Cologne, Episcopal museum, 145 " Wallraf-Richartz museum, 145 Columban, 66 Combs, Empire, 19 cent., 328 " jewelled, medl., 107 " 19 cent., 329 Comines, Philip de, 109, 110 Commonwealth, England, 305 Compostella, 109 " shrine of St. James, 91 Conques, 102, 137 " Treasury, 112, 137 Consolavera, J. B. de, 208 Constantine, 33, 226 Constantinople, 33, 34, 49 " foundation of, 33 " sack of, 38 Coral, in Dutch peasant jewellery, 345 " medl. use of, 123 " 19 cent., 328 Corbeil, Our Lady of, 137 Corbizi, Litti di Filippo, 175 Cornaro, Catarina, 264 Cornette, 107 Cornish diamonds, 357 Coronals, Italy, 15 cent., 169 " medl., 106 " round hat, 224 Coronets, 106 n. " medl., 106 " 19 cent., 328 Corsage, jewelled, 308 Cosse de pois ornament, 281, 293, 297 Costantini, G. B., 284 Côtehardi, 267 Coulant, 342, 345 Counterfeit, 355 " stones sold to Henry VIII, 208 Courroye, 270 Coventry, St. Mary's Hall, 115 " ring, 150 Cramp, rings worn against, 152 Cranach, Lucas, 189, 238, 250, 259, 261, 264 Crapaudine, 151 Crete, 8 Crimea, 9, 12, 14, 50 Crivelli, Carlo, 167 " Lucrezia, 172 Cromwell, Oliver, 293, 294, 305 " Thomas, 208, 213 Crosby, Sir John, 115 Cross, pendent, Byzantine, 36 " " medl., 118 " " peasant, 342 " " Renaiss., 242-3 " the True, relics of, 118 " Visigothic (Guarrazar), 54 Crotalia, 28 Crown, Alfred Jewel, as ornament of a, 69 " of Thorns, relic of, 118, 119 Crowns, xxxix, 106 " Byzantine, 35 " Greek, 17 " Mycenæan, 11 " Scandinavian peasant, 346 " Visigothic, 53, 54 Croy, Celtic brooch from, 77 Crusaders, 34 Crusades, influence on jewellery, 101 " jewellery brought back from, 84, 93 Cryspyn, John, 208 Crystal, 313, 342, 343, 347, 356, 357 " of Lothair, 139 Cuir bouilli, 97 Cunynghame, H. H., 35, 86, 339 Cupreous glaze, 2 Cuthbert, St., 68 Cyprus, 8, 10, 12, 21

D., A., 285 Dagobert, K. of the Franks, 155, 222 Dalton, O. M., 34 n, 51 n. Dance of Death, 363 Danes, invasion of, 68 Danube, Irish missionaries on, 67 " valley, enamel-work, 198 Dark Ages, 51 Darnley, Henry, 217 " jewel, 217, 257 Dartrey, Earl of, 288 Dashûr, 5 Dauffe, 319 Dauphin, badge of, 110 Davenport, C. J. H. (quoted), 71 David, Gerard, 140, 155, 263 " J. L., 326, 329 Davies, G. S. (quoted), 351, 352 Davillier, Baron C., 202, 249 Davy, William, 208 Dawson, Nelson, 339 Death's head, 364-7 De Boot, A., 100 Debruge-Duménil collection, 130, 245 De Bruyn, Abraham, 197 De Bull, H., 284 Defontaine, J., 282 De Heem, Jan, 287 De Heere, Lucas, 252, 352 De la Quewellerie. See La Quewellerie Delaune, Etienne, 197, 201, 272 De Leeuw, John, 155 Demi-ceint, or demysent, 164 Desborough (Northants), 74 Devant de corsage, 318 Devices, 223 " on Elizabethan jewellery, 216-7 " Renaiss., sewn to garments, 268 Devise, 223, 365 Dextrocherium, 30 Diadems, xxxix " Byzantine, 34 " Egyptian, 3 " Etruscan, 23 " Greek, 16, 17 " medl., 106 " " English, 93 " Phoenician, 9 " Roman, 28 " 19 cent., 328 Diamant d' Alençon, 343 Diamond, 276-9 " of Charles the Bold, 209 " earrings of Marie Antoinette, 317 " necklace of Marie Antoinette, 318 Diamonds, the brilliant, 279 " Bristol, 235, 259 and n. " cutting of, 230, 277-9 " false, 235, 313, 314, 357 " in pictures, 351 " the "point," 277, 278 " pointed, in rings, 260 " in Renaiss. jewellery, 179 " in rings, 17 cent., 296 " rose cut, 282, 310 " " in Flemish peasant jewellery, 345 " "roses," 278-9 " "table," 278-9 " taille en seize, 279 " use of, in early jewellery, 277 " in 18 cent. jewellery, 308, 319 Dickens, Charles (quoted), 369 Dietrich, 339 Dinanderie, 112 n. Dinglinger, George Friedrich, 310 " Johann Melchior, 310 " " " (junior), 311 Dinteville, Jean de, 365 Dionysius of Halicarnassus, 20 Dionysos, 24 Diptychs, pendent, medl., 119-20 Directory, 325-6 Discs of gold. See Plates of gold Dog (Talbot), on Renaiss. pendants, 249 "Dombild," 145 Dorchester House. See London Douce, Francis, 53, 264 Douglas, Lady Margaret, 217 Douffet, Gerard, 296 Dove, symbol of Holy Ghost, 249 " in peasant jewellery, 343 Dowgate Hill brooch, 69 Dragon, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 249 Drake, Sir Francis, 253, 266, 354 " Sir F. Fuller-Eliott, 218, 230 n., 253 " jewels, 218, 230 n., 353 Drawings for jewellery by Barcelona goldsmiths, 202 Drawings for jewellery by Sir F. Child, 306 " " by Dürer, 190 " " by Holbein, 210-213 " " by Lulls, 302 " " by Mielich, 195 " " by the Santini family, 308 Drury Fortnum. See Fortnum Dresden, Picture Gallery, 261 " Grüne Gewölbe, 251, 311 Dress, ornaments sewn on, ancient Irish, 43 " " " Renaiss., 268 Dress-fasteners, prehistoric, xliii " " ancient British, 41 Dressche, Reinecke van, 139 Du Barry, Madame, 317 Du Bellay, G., 207 Dublin, Irish National Museum, 42, 44, 77, 78 " National Gallery of Ireland, 250 " Royal Irish Academy, 42, 78 " Trinity College, 78 Dubois, Paul, 339 Ducerceau. See Androuet Ducerceau Duflos, August, 312, 317 Du Fresnoy, C. A., 353 Dunstan, St., 67 Dürer, A., 185, 187, 190, 191, 250 Du Suau de la Croix, Comte, 338 Duvet, Jean, 200

"Eagle Fibula," 135 Eagle stones, 122 Eanred, 72 Earle, J., 69 Ear-picks, Renaiss., 250-1 Earrings, xxxix, xl " Anglo Saxon, 58 " ancient British, 40 " Byzantine, 35, 37 " " in Middle Ages, 112 " Egyptian, 4 " English, 16-17 cent., 234-5 " Etruscan, 23 " Frankish, 58 " Greek, 15, 16 " medl., 112, 113 " " English, 92 " worn by men, 234-5, 332 " Merovingian, 58 " Phoenician, 9 " Renaiss., 233-5 " Roman, 28-9 " 17 cent., 291 " 18 " 309, 317 " 19 " 328 East Anglia, 60 Edict of Nantes, 305 Edinburgh, High Street, 133 " St. Giles' Church, 133 " National Museum of Antiquities, 77, 132, 150, 165 Edmer, 92 Edward the Confessor, K. of England, 92, 102, 118 " I, K. of England, 67, 92 " II " 93, 162 " III " 93, 121, 161, 162 " IV " 115, 116 " VI " 218, 219 " " " Prayer Book of, 274 " VII " 217, 224 Effigies, sepulchral, jewellery on, 82 Eglentine, Prioress, jewel worn by, 129 Egyptian jewellery, 1-7, 49 Elché, "Lady of," 9, 10 Electrum, primitive Italy, 24 Elenchi, 28 Eligius, St. See Eloy Elizabeth, Q. of Bohemia, 301 " " England, 213-20, 232, 234, 237, 239, 251-256, 265, 267, 269, 273, 301 " Gonzaga, Duchess of Urbino, 172 Eloy, or Eloi, St., 67, 155 Emeralds, Spanish, 205 Empire jewellery, 326 Enamel, 49 " Battersea, 320 " basse-taille, 87, 97, 138 " Bilston, 320 " Byzantine, 35 " Celtic, 41 " champlevé, English, 16 cent., 211 " " medl., 85, 138 " " Romano-British, 45 " " on rings, 17 cent., 295 " " Spanish, 17 cent., 204 " " 16-17 cent., 283 etc. " " 17 cent., 292 " cloisonné, 70, 136, 283 " " Anglo-Saxon, 66, 68 " " Byzantine, 35, 36 " " medl., 84 " " Tara brooch, 66, 78 " Egyptian, 3 " émail en blanc, 87 " émail en résille sur verre, 273, 293, 296 " émail en ronde bosse, 87, 225 " English 16 cent., 216 " " 18 " 313 " "filigree enamel," (Draht-Email), 198, 347 " French, 18 cent., 311, 312 " Gallo-Roman, 46 " "gold wire," 224 " Greek, 13, 15, 17 " Hispano-Moresque, 205 " Irish, 66, 78 " Limoges, medl., 86 " " Renaiss. for enseignes, 229 " "Louis Treize," 286, 289, 293 " medl., 84-88 " opaque, French, 16 cent., 199, 200 " painted, 346, 347 " " on peasant jewellery, 344, 347 " " 17 cent., 285, 292, 293, 295 " Renaiss., 180 " Romano-British, 45 " Toutin firing an, 285, 289 " transluscent, 17 cent., 283 " " 18 " 312 " " See Basse-taille " white, émail en blanc, 87 " 17 cent., general, 283, 298 " " on watches, 297 " 18 cent., 312 " 19 cent., revival of, 337 England, medl. jewellery, 91-98 " 16 cent. jewellery, 206-221 " 17 " " 299-306 " 18 " " 310 Engraved designs for jewellery, English, 18 cent., 310, 312 Engraved designs for jewellery, French, 16 cent., 200, 201 Engraved designs for jewellery, Flemish, 16 cent., 196, 197 Engraved designs for jewellery, German, 16 cent., 186-7, 191-4 Engraved designs for jewellery, 17 cent., 280-9, 291-8 Engraved designs for jewellery, 18 cent., 308-10, 312, 320 Engraved gems, antique, in medl. jewellery, 148, 153, 154 " " medl. use of, 101-4 " " in rings, Romano-British, 47 " " 16 cent., 227, 245 " " 19 cent., 326, 327 Enkomi, Cyprus, 12 Enseignes, 156, 169 " medl., 107-111, 146 " Renaiss., 222-230, 267 " with skulls, 364, 365 "Equipage," 323 Erasmus, D., 109 Eros, 15, 16 Escarcelle, 165 "Esclavo," 204 Escoffion, 107, 156 Esguillettes, 269 Espreuves, 123 Essen, Treasury of, 143 " medl. brooches at, 143-145 Essence d'orient, 358 Estampes, Duchess of, 181 Este, Beatrice d', Duchess of Milan. See Beatrice " Isabella d', Marchioness of Mantua. See Isabella Estrennes, 153, 213 Ethelbert, K. of Kent, 65 Ethelswith, 71 " ring of, 72 Ethelwulf, K. of Wessex, 71 " ring of, 72 Ethred, 72 Eton College, 115 Etruscan goldsmiths, 8 " jewellery, 20-26, 333 Étuis, Eng., 18 cent., 309, 310, 323 " pinchbeck, 316 " Renaiss., 272 Eudel, P., 360, 362 Euphues, 273 Eustachio, Fra, 175 Evans, A. J., 43 " Sir J., 47, 62, 296 Evelyn, John, 298, 299, 367 Evil Eye, 164, 250 "Exeter Book," 57 Exmewe, Thomas, 208 Ex voto, 136 Eyck, van, 106 " John van, 90, 155 Eyelets, Renaiss., 268 Eymaker, 310

Façon d'Angleterre, 162 Fahrner, T., 339 Faience, Egyptian, 2, 7 Falize, Lucien, 335 Falkland, Viscount, 295 Fane, Sir S. Ponsonby, 322 Fans, Renaiss., suspended to girdles, 272 Fashion, influence on jewellery, 28, 80, 178, 370 Fausse montre, 324 Faversham, 57 Fay, J. B., 312, 317 Feathers, jewelled, as aigrettes, 17 cent., 231 Feather jewel for hats, English, 17 cent., 300 Fedeli, Ercole, 158 Feder, von, 190 Federigo of Montefeltro, Duke of Urbino, 171 "Felicini" altar-piece, 170 Felicini, Bartolomeo, 170 Felspar, green, 3 Fenwolf, Morgan, 208 Ferdinand of Tirol, Archduke, 188 Ferenzuola, Giovanni da, 185 Fermail, 93, 128, 131, 137, 141 Fermailleurs, 131 Ferronnière, 172, 328 Fessey, J., 310 Fibulæ, xlii, xliii, 127 " Anglo-Saxon, 59, 127 " Byzantine, 34 " Etruscan, 24 " Roman, xlii " Romano-British, xlii, 46 " "spectacle," xlii " See also Brooches Field of Cloth of Gold, 207, 237 Filigree, 19 " Byzantine, 35 " " influence in Europe, 35 " Etruscan, 24 " gold, in Portuguese jewellery, 347 " gold, in 17 cent. memorial jewellery, 368 " Greek, 13, 16 " in Jewish wedding rings, 262 " silver, in German peasant jewellery, 346 Fillets, xxxix " Etruscan, 23 " medl., 105 " Phoenician, 9 " Roman, 28 Finger rings. See Rings Finger-ring Lore, 296 Finiguerra, Tommaso (Maso), 168 Firens, P., 293 Firmacula, 92, 138 Fisher, Alexander, 339 Fitzhardinge, Lord, 73, 274 Flach, Thomas, 310 Flanders, influence of, in 15 cent., 142 Fleece, Golden, 24 " " Order of, 90 Flemish-Burgundian jewellery, 143-6, 213 Flemish brooches, 15 cent., 146 " paintings, jewellery in, 89-90 " peasant jewellery, 345 " Renaiss. " 196, 197 Fleurs-de-lis, 93, 106 Florence, 167 " Bargello. See Museo Nazionale " Cathedral, 175 " Museo Nazionale (Bargello), 130 " Museo Nazionale (Bargello), Carrand collection, 145 " Pitti Gallery, 170, 233, 294 " Spedale di Santa Maria Nuova, 114 " Uffizi Gallery, 114, 117, 144, 168, 172, 264, 286, 294 " Uffizi Gallery, Galleria delle Gemme, 228 n. " 15 cent. jewellery, 174 Flötner, Peter, 193 Flower, pendant called, 210, 217 Flowers, natural, designs in jewellery, 283, 285-9 Fob-pocket, 298, 323, 324, 332 Foil, gold, Anglo-Saxon, 60 Foils for precious stones, 60-63, 180, 260, 351, 355, 356 Fontenay, E., 4, 48, 72, 320, 335 Fontevraud, 141 Foppa Ambrogio, called Caradosso, 168 Forgeries, 313, 355-62 Fornarina, 233 Fortnum collection. See Oxford, Ashmolean Museum Foulc, E., 263 Fouquet, Georges, 338 Foy, René, 338 Foy, St., 112, 136, 137 Foyle, Lough, 43 France, barbaric jewellery, 56 " medl. jewellery, 88 " peasant jewellery, 342, 343 " Renaiss. jewellery, 199-201 " 17 cent. jewellery, 276 " 18 " " 309 " 19 " " 325 Francesca, Piero della, 171 Francia, F., 169, 170, 210 Francis I, K. of France, 172, 181, 199, 200, 208, 227 Frankfort-on-the-Main, 195 " Rothschild collection, 197 " Städel Institute, 233 Franks, the, 56 Franks, Sir A. W., 72, 185 " " See also London, British Museum, Franks Bequest Frauds, 355-62 Freeman, John, 208 Friessler, L., 339 Fritillaries, painted on enamel, 287 Froment-Meurice, 331 Frontlets, Egyptian, 3 " Greek, 16 " 19 cent., 328 Fruit-shaped pendants, medl., 125 Frye, Thomas, 317 Fugger family, 188 " Jacob, 210 Fuller-Eliott-Drake. See Drake Fuseli, H., 312

Gaillard, Lucien, 338 Gallo-Roman jewellery, 46 Garlande, Jean de, 131 Garnets, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 57, 58, 60, 61, 63, 67 " in barbaric jewellery, 49, 53 " in mourning jewellery, 370 " in Swiss peasant jewellery, 346 Garter, Order of, 254 " " pendent "George" of, 302 Gaudees (gauds), 124, 125 Gaskin, Arthur, 339 Gaul, 50 " invasion of by Teutonic races, 56 Gaveston, Piers, 67, 93 Geiss, 330 Gems, engraved, antique, in medl. jewellery, 148, 153, 154 " " in enseignes, 16 cent., 227 " " in girdles, 271 " " in pendants, 16 cent., 245 " " in pendants, 17 cent., 291, 292 " " 19 cent., 326-31 " sewn on dress, Byzantine, 34 " See also Engraved gems George, St., enseigne of, 224, 225 "George," of the Order of Garter, 302 George III, K. of England, 313 Genista, 110 Gérard, F., Baron, 329 Gerini, Casa, 350 Germanic tribes, 50 Germany, peasant jewellery, 346 " 16 cent., jewellery, 187-96 " 17 cent., jewellery, 276 Gheeraerts, Marc, 352 Ghemert, H., van, 284 Ghent, 89 " altar piece by the Van Eycks, at, 106 Ghiberti, Lorenzo, 168, 210 Ghirlandaio, Domenico del, 169, 170, 210, 263 " Ridolfo del, 170 Ghirlande, 169 Gibbons, Grinling, 287 Gibbs Bequest. See London, British Museum Gigates, 47 Giovio, Paolo, 260 Gipcière, 165 " beams, 165 Giraldus Cambrensis, 109 Girandole, 317, 318 Girdle, medl., in picture, 156 " -buckle, xlv, xlvi, 159, 160 " " design by Aldegrever, 194 " " " de Bry, 196 " " " Dürer, 190 " -buckles, 18 cent., 322 " -hangers, Anglo-Saxon, 63 Girdlers' Company of London. See London Girdles, xlv, xlvi " Anglo-Saxon, 63 " Greek, 18 " medl., 159-65 " " England, 93, 94 " Renaiss., 270-2 " 17 cent., 296-7 " 19 cent., 329 Giuliano, Carlo, 22, 334, 359 Giustinian, S., 206 Glass, armlets, Romano-British, 47 " beads, Phoenician, 10 " " Roman, 29 " " Romano-British, 45 " diamond rings for writing on, 260 " Egyptian, 3, 6 " millefiori, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59 " millefiori, in Romano-British jewellery, 46 " painted, in jewellery, "verre églomisé," 203-4 " paste, 1, 49, 52 Glastonbury, 67 Glenlyon brooch, 111, 132 Glockendon missal, 175 Glomy, 203 Glossopetræ, 122, 123, 156 Gloves, rings worn over, 149, 259 " slashing of, 259, 265 Gmünd, 339 Gnadenmedaillen, 248 Gnauth, 339 Gnostics, 101 Godberta, St., 155, 263 Godstow Priory ring, 150 Golconda, 278, 351 Gold, coloured, 311, 328 " imitation, 358, 359 Golden Fleece, 14 " " collar of, 90 " Hind, 253 "Goldshine," 316 Goldsmiths of Paris, medl., 134 " Company of London. See London " workshops, interiors of, 98, 155, 156, 158, 176, 201 Gondola, pendent jewel, in form of, 197, 247 Gonzaga, Elizabeth, Duchess of Urbino. See Elizabeth Gorget, from Petrossa, 52 Gorgets, ancient Irish, 42 Göss, 339 Gothic ornament, appearance of, 86 " nations, 49, 50 " revival, 19 cent., 331 " style, 19 cent., 332 Græco-Phoenician jewellery, 8 Graff, C., 339 Grains de chapelet, 125 Granulated gold, 327, 333 Granulation, Byzantine, 35 " Etruscan, 21, 24 " Greek, 12, 13 " Phoenician, 8 Granson, battle of, 210 Greek jewellery, 8, 11-19 " Islands, peasant jewellery, 246, 346 Green, J. R. (quoted), 66 Gregory XVI, Pope, 22 Gresham, Sir T., 237 Grey, Lady Jane, 254 Gribelin, Simon, 310 Grien, Hans Baldung, 189, 261 Grimani Breviary, 175 Grondoni, G. B., 309, 310 Guarrazar, 50, 53 Guay, J., 320 Guien, J., 310, 317 Guilds, goldsmiths', 134 " " rules against forgery, 356, 358, 359 Guilloché gold, 312 Gurschner, G., 339 Gypcière, 94

Habsburg, family, 294 Hadaway, Mrs., 339 Hailler, D., 284 Hair, jewellery of, 368-70 " " 19 cent., 331 " ornaments for the, medl., 114 " " " Renaiss., 223 " " " 17 cent., 291 " " " 18 " 316 Hair-pins, xl, xli " Anglo-Saxon, 57 " Etruscan, 23 " German peasant, 346 " Greek, 17 " Renaiss., 232-3 " Roman, 28 " Romano-British, 45 " 18 cent., 316 " 19 " 328 Hall, Bishop, 259 " Edward, 207, 211, 224 Hals, Agnes, 366 " Frans, 296, 362 Hamilton brooch, 70 " Palace collection, 303 Hammer, 339 Hampton Court Gallery, 245 Hanau, 339 Hannibal, 32 Hans of Antwerp, 208, 213 Harlay, family, 266 Haroun al-Raschid, 84, 118 Harrogate diamonds, 357 Harvey, Gabriel, 261 Hastings, Lord, 46 Hat-badges. See Enseignes " bands, jewelled, 224, 230 " ornaments, medl., 109 Hats, jewelled, medl., 107 " jewels on, English, 17 cent., 300, 301 " rings worn on, 261 Hauer, J. P., 287 Hauptmann, Franz, 339 Hays, Cornelius, 208 Head-appendages, Greek, 16 " dresses, Roman, 28 " ornaments, xxxix " " Dutch, 344 " " ancient Irish, 42 " " Italian, 15 cent., 171, 172 " " medl., 105-12 " " Renaiss., 232 " " 18 cent., 316 " " 19 " 328 Hearts, peasant jewels in form of, 342-5 Hecke, van den. See Van den Hecke Heel, Johann, 309 Heeley, 319 Heem, Jan de. See De Heem Hefner-Alteneck, J. H. von, 195 Hendrickje Stoffels, 191 Henin, 107 Henlein, Peter, 274 Henrietta Maria, Q. of England, earrings of, 354 Henry I, K. of England, 92 " II " 141 " III " 92, 141, 151 " IV " 95, 115, 116, 140, 142, 162, 164 " V " 95, 110 " VI " 115 " VII " 216, 219 " VIII " 199, 206-13, 219, 224, 225, 226, 237, 238, 250, 252, 258, 263, 265, 267, 268, 269 " II, K. of France, 200, 365 " III " 200, 234 " IV " 314, 320 " K. of Castile, 109 " Prince of Wales, son of James I, 302-3 Hentzner, Paul, 214 Hera, 19 Herbals, precious stones in, 100 n. Heraclius, Emperor, 59 Herbst, J. B., 310 Herculaneum, 29 " discovery of, 311 Herculean knot, rings shaped like, 32 Heriot, George, 268, 273, 300, 301, 304 " James, 210, 304 Heriot's Hospital, 301 Hermitage Museum. See St. Petersburg Herodotus, 363 Herrick, Nicolas, 220 " Robert, 220, 302 " Sir William, 220, 301, 302 Heyl, Baron von, 136 Highland brooches, 131-3 Hilary, St., 104 " " jewel of, 103, 136 Hilliard, Nicholas, 219, 253, 255 Hipkins, W. and Co., 315 Hirzel, H. R. C., 338 Hispano-Moresque jewellery, 205 Hissarlik, 9 Holbein, Hans, the younger, 190, 210-13, 224, 243, 252, 273, 351, 352, 363, 365 Holford, Major, 288 Holinshed, R., 207, 235 Holland, peasant jewellery, 344-5 Hollar, W., 190, 275 Holtzendorff treasure, 267 " family, 238 Holy Land, jewellery brought back from, 84, 86 Holyrood, 115 Homer, 19 Honervogt, J., 282 Honyson, Guillim, 208 Hooks and loops, medl., 140 " " eyes, Renaiss., 268 Hoop (of ring), xlv Hornick, Erasmus, 193, 194, 251 Horus, 2 Huaud or Huault, 298 Hungary, 16 cent. jewellery, 197-8 " peasant jewellery, 347 Hunsdon, George Carey, Lord, 218, 265 " Henry Carey, Lord, 218, 253, 274 " jewels, 93, 218, 253, 274 Hunterston brooch, 79 Hurtu, J., 285 Hyderabad, 278

Ialysos, 12 Iconoclastic decrees, 34 Iklyngton Coler, 115 Ilchester, Earl of, 366 Il Rosso. See Rosso Impresa, 223 Imitation diamonds, 313-14 " gold, 358, 359 " pearls, 314 " precious stones, 18 cent., 313 Imitations, 355-62 Incrustation (or inlay), process of, 49-55 Initials, jewelled, Renaiss., on garments, 268 " jewels in form of, 211-12 " pendants in form of, Renaiss., 248 Inlaid jewellery, 35, 49-55 " " Anglo-Saxon, 60 Innocent III, Pope, 96, 148 Intaglio cutting on gold, Greek, 13 " medl., 138 Intaglios, antique, in medl. jewellery, 102 " Renaiss., 227 " Roman, 30 " 19 cent., 326 Inventories, jewellery in, 82, 88-9, 92-6, 142, 215, 258, 263, 353 Ionia, 22 Ipsamboul (Abu Simbel), 4 Ireland, cloisonné enamel, 66 " introduction of Christianity into, 75 " prehistoric ornaments in, 40-4 Irish missionaries, their influence on Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 66, 67 Iron jewellery, 19 cent., 330, 331 " prehistoric, 39 Isabella d'Este, Marchioness of Mantua, 158 " of France, Q. of England, 114 Italian jewellery, 15 cent., 166-76 " " 16 " 183-6 " peasant jewellery, 334, 346

Jacobson, Philip, 302, 304 James I, K. of England, 210, 230, 231, 235, 238, 257, 268, 299, 300-4 " II " 119 " St., of Compostella, 109 Jane Seymour, Q. of England, 212 Janssens, C., 352 Jaquin, 314 Jet jewellery, 48 " medl., 124 " mourning jewellery, 370 " Romano-British, 45, 47 Jewish wedding rings. See Rings "Jingling Geordie," 301 Joaillerie, 277 Joailliers-faussetiers, corporation of, 314 Joanna of Navarre, Q. of England, 141 Jocalia, 92, 138 John Anwarpe. See Hans of Antwerp " of Cambridge, 106 " the Constant, Elector of Saxony, 261 " Frederick, Elector of Saxony, 261 " of Leyden, 250 " St., Baptist, head of, 226, 227 n. " " Evangelist, 36, 99, 103 " King of England, 92, 96 " II, King of France, 88 Jones, W., 296 Jonson, Ben, 151 Jörg, A., 284 Josephine, Empress, 29, 329-30 Juliers, William, Duke of. See William Jupiter, cameo of, considered to represent St. John, 103 " Capitolinus, temple of, 32 Justinian, Emperor, 33, 34 Jutes, 56, 59

K., P. R., 280, 284 Kameiros, 12 Kann collection, 169 Karlsruhe, 190 Kaufmann collection, 263 Kayle, Hugh, 220 Kensington (South) Museum. See London, Victoria and Albert Museum Kent, 60 Kentish cemeteries, 56, 57, 63 Kertch, 14, 16 " forged jewels, said to come from, 360 Kh[=a]-em-uas, 5 Khepera, 2 Kilbride, West, 79 Kilmainham brooch, 77 Kimmeridge shale, 47 King, C. W. (quoted), 100 Kings of the East, Three, 102, 111, 129, 132, 150, 152 Kingston brooch, 60 " -on-Thames, 142 Klein-Meister, 191-4 Kneller, Sir G., 353 Knives, Renaiss., suspended to girdles, 272 Knotwork, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 57 Koul-Oba, 14 Kraft, Adam, 120 Kreuterbuch, 100 n., 126

Labarre, P., 282 Laborde, L. de, 277 Laffitte, Gaston, 338 Lalique, René, 338 Lang, Andrew, 221, 353 Lange, Jehan, 208, 209 Latten, 161 La Quewellerie, G. de, 284, 295 Lannoy, Baldwin de, 90 " Raoul de, 116 Lapis-lazuli, 2, 136 Lark Hill, near Worcester, 154 Latium, 24 Laton, 161 Lauingen, 230, 232 Laverstoke, 72 Law, Thomas and Co., 315 "Lazos," 204, 294 Lead, medl. jewels of, 108-10, 131, 161 " models for jewellery, 192-3 Leblanc, 316 Le Blon, M., 284, 304 "Leda and the Swan," by Cellini, 185, 228 Ledyard, Adam, 124 Lefebure, F., 282, 291 Lefèvre, R., 329 Légaré, Gédéon, 282, 287 " Gilles, 279, 282, 287-9, 291, 293, 294, 296, 298, 366 Leicester, Robert Dudley, Earl of, 239, 274 Leland, J., 207 Lely, Sir P., 353 Leman, Baptist, 208 Le Mans, xliii, 128 Lemersier, B., 282 Lempereur, 312, 318 Lennox, Henry Stuart, Earl of, 217 " jewel, 217, 257 Lenton, F., 235, 357 Leo III, Emperor, 34 Leonardus, C., 100, 101 Leopold, J. F., 309 Letelen, Albert von, 139 Letters, jewels in form of, 211 " pendants in form of, Renaiss., 248 Leven and Melville, Earl of, 221, 353 Leyden, John of, 250 Liberale di Giacomo da Verona, 175 Liberation, German War of, 330 Liberty, A. Lazenby, 339 Lichtwark, A., 193 Limoges enamel, medl., 86 " enamelled enseignes made at, 229 Limavady treasure, 43 Lion's head on Egyptian jewellery, 5 " Phoenician jewellery, 9 Lions on archaic Greek jewellery, 12 Lipona, Countess, 16 Lippmann, F., 190 Lisbon, Museum of Fine Arts, 347 Linas, C. de, 52 n. "Little masters" (Kleinmeister), 191-6 Liverpool, Mayer collection, 60 Lively, 110, 116-7 Livre de Taille d'Épargne, 309 Llewellyn, 152 Llys-fæn, Carnarvonshire, 71 Loch Buy brooch, 133 Lochner, Stephan, 145 Lockets, memorial, Eng., 17-18 cent., 368 " 17 cent., 293 Lombard Street, 115 Lombards (Gothic tribe), 50 Lombardy, peasant jewellery, 346 London, British Museum, 3, 4, 8-10, 12, 17, 23-8, 34, 37, 44, 46, 51, 60, 63, 69, 72, 74, 76, 108, 119, 122, 129, 132, 133, 138, 190, 211, 273, 297 " British Museum, Franks Bequest, 37, 110, 145, 148, 246, 264, 368 " British Museum, Gibbs Bequest, 57, 62, 63 " British Museum, Waddesdon Bequest, 125, 184, 226, 231, 248, 272, 303, 366 " British Museum, Sloane collection, 218, 255 " British Museum, Gold Ornament Room, 154, 292 " British Museum, Carlisle collection, 246 " British Museum, Room of Greek and Roman Life, 23 " Cuming Museum, Walworth Road, 361 n. " Dorchester House, 225, 288 " Girdlers' Company, 161, 272 " Goldsmiths' Company, 131, 213 " Guildhall Museum, 108, 165 " National Gallery, 140, 171, 174, 238, 259, 264, 365 " National Portrait Gallery, 141 n., 212, 222, 235, 254 " Royal Academy, 312, 313 " St. Helen's Church, Bishopsgate, 115 " St. Paul's Cathedral, 115, 138 " South Kensington Museum Jewellery Exhibition, 1872, 241 " South Kensington Museum. See London, Victoria and Albert Museum " Temple Church, 128 " Tower, 300 " Victoria and Albert Museum, 31, 36, 51, 72, 73, 120, 122, 129, 130, 138, 139, 163, 203, 218, 226, 231, 246, 248, 249, 254, 257, 266, 272, 273, 294, 296, 321, 334, 347, 356, 365, 369 " Victoria and Albert Museum, Art Library, 308, 344 " Victoria and Albert Museum, Dyce collection, 293 " Victoria and Albert Museum, Jones collection, 293 " Victoria and Albert Museum, Waterton collection, 149, 264 " Wallace collection, 226, 272, 296, 297 Londesborough collection, 129, 264 Loops (clasps), medl., 140 " Renaiss., 268 Lord Mayor of London, collar of, 117 Loreto, Santa Casa, 91 Lorn, brooch of, 133 Lothair II, K. of the Franks, 139 Lotto, Lorenzo, 263 Lotus flower, 4 Louis IX, St., K. of France, 119 " XI, K. of France, 109, 110, 116 " XII " 199 " XIII " 279, 286, 292 " XIV " 266, 279, 282, 293 " XV " 311, 320 " XVI " 311, 323 Louise Augusta, of Schleswig-Holstein, Princess, 339 Luckenbooth brooches, 133-4, 165 Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, 168, 172 Ludwig I, K. of Bavaria, 16 Lulls, Arnold, 231, 302, 304 Lunulæ, 42 Luthmer, F., xxxiv, 82, 135, 197, 240, 339, 352 Lyly, J., 217, 273 Lyons, 277 Lyte jewel, 257, 293, 303, 304, 354 " Sir H. Maxwell, 304 " Thomas, 303, 304, 354

Mabell, 269 Mabuse, 261, 351 Macdougals of Lorn, 133 Macleans of Loch Buy, 133 Macneals of Firfergus, 133 Macquoid, Mrs. Percy, 120 Madrid, Royal Armoury, 53 " Museum of Antiquities, 9 Mænad, 15 Magi. See Kings of the East Magna Græcia, 14, 17, 18 Magnussen, E., 339 Mainz, 135-7 Mainz Cathedral, 137 " " Treasury, 137 " Museum, 136 Maîtres ornemanistes, 246 Malone, E., 123 n. Mammillary fibulæ, xliii, 42 Mantle clasps, medl., 140, 141 Manuscripts, representation of jewellery in, 82, 97, 174, 175, 176 Marbode, Bishop of Rennes, 100 n. Marcasite, 315, 319, 321 Marchant, Pierre, 281, 292, 306 Margaret, Q. of Scotland, 114-115 Maria, 312, 319 Marie Antoinette, Q. of France, 316, 317, 318 Mariette, P. J., 288 Martial, 31, 355 Martin, brothers, 204 " Sir Richard, 220 Mary, the Blessed Virgin, 36, 37 " " monogram of, 97, 204, 249 " of Burgundy, Empress, 146 n., 246 n. " daughter of James I, 302 " Q. of England, 207, 219, 237, 254, 269 " Q. of Scots, 220, 221, 234, 265, 268, 269, 353, 366 Marygold by Temple Bar, The, 306 Matsys, Quentin, 156, 227 n., 263 Mathias Corvinus, King of Hungary, 175 Mauricius, Emperor, 59 Mayer collection. See Liverpool Maximilian, Archduke of Austria, 248 " I, Emperor, 191, 146 n. " II " 188 Mazarin, Cardinal, 279 Medallions on the hat, 229. See also Enseignes Medals, pendent, Renaiss., 247-8 " " English, 257 Medici, family, 114, 260, 294 " " device of, 260 " Costanza de', 170, 263 " Cosimo de', 260 " Francesco de', 233 " Guiliano de', 171 " Lorenzo de', 171, 260 " Lucrezia de', 292 " Piero de', 260 Mediterranean, 8, 21 Melillo, 334, 359 Melos, 17 "Memento Mori," 363-70 Memorial jewellery, 321, 331 " rings, 364-70 Merchants' marks on rings, 153 Mermaids, pendants in form of, Renaiss., 249, 250, 251 " " hung with bells, 164 n. Merman, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 243, 249, 251 Merovingian dynasty, 52, 55 " jewellery, 46, 56 Merovingians, 50 Meuse, jewels found in, 143 Michelangelo di Viviano, 171 Mielich, Hans, 195, 226 Mignot, D., 193, 231, 280, 284, 304 Migrations of the Tribes, 49 Milan, Ambrosiana, 172 " Brera Gallery, 171 " Crespi Gallery, 225 " Poldi-Pezzoli Museum, 217, 255, 256 " S. Eustorgio, 111 " school of painting, 167 Millefiori glass in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59 " " in Romano-British jewellery, 46 Milvian Bridge, battle of, 226 Minden, 139 Miniature cases, 218 " " Elizabethan, 256 " " English, 17 cent., 303 " " 17 cent., 281, 293, 297 " frames, pinchbeck, 316 " " 17 cent., by Marchant, 306 " " jewelled, 18 cent., by Toussaint, 313 Miniatures in bracelets, 319-20 " memorial jewellery, 369 Minster Lovel jewel, 69 Minuteria, xxxiii, 227 n. "Mirror of France," 300 Mirror cases, medl. 146 " Renaiss., 272 " 17 cent., 297 Mithridates, 29 Mitres, jewels on, 97, 98 Mocha stone, 321 Models for jewellery in lead, 192-3 Möhring B., 338 Monckton, Lady, 317 Moncornet, B., 282, 287, 288 Monday, John, 208 Mondon, 309, 317 Monilia baccata, 29 " medl., 121, 138 " Roman, 29 Monograms, pendants in form of, 204, 212, 248, 249 " sewn on garments, 268 Monogrammists, 284 Montauban, 224, 231 Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 323 Monte di Giovanni, 175 Montefeltro, Federigo of, Duke of Urbino. See Federigo Moorish influence on Portuguese peasant jewellery, 347 " influence on Spanish peasant jewellery, 205, 347 Mordant, xlvi, 159, 160, 162, 271 More, Sir Antonio, 352 Moreau, P., 312 Moreelse, Peter, 232 Morgan, Sir Matthew, 266 " Octavius, 148 " Pierpont, collection, 169, 173, 217, 248, 254, 256, 293, 297, 313 n. Morisson, F. J., 308, 310 Morlière (of Orleans), 287 Mors de chape, 137 Morses, 121, 137-40 Mosaic jewellery, 19 cent., 327 Mosaics, Byzantine, 33, 34, 36 Mosbach, H., 282 Moser, G. M., 312 Moss agates, 18 cent., 321 " 19 cent., 328-9 Mottoes on rings, 295-6 Moulds for casting jewellery, 108, 122 Mount Charles, Countess of, 240 Mourning jewellery, 331, 369, 370 " rings, 296, 364-70 Mummies, 1, 6 Munich, 194 " Antiquarium, 3, 16 " Bavarian National Museum, 62, 120, 157, 192, 195, 231, 232, 247 " Coin Cabinet, 248 " jewels made at, 245 " Pinakothek, 261, 263 " Royal Library, 195, 226 " Royal Treasury, 195, 251 " in 16 cent., 188, 189 Munk, Eugenie, 339 Murat, Joachim, 16 Museums, collections of jewellery in, 336 " portraits and jewels in, 349 Mycenæ, 11, 19, 40, 43 Mycenæan jewellery, 11 " period, 21, 22 Mytens, D., 352

Nail, Holy, 204 Nancy, battle of, 107 Nantes, Edict of, 305 Napoleon I, Emperor, 118, 325, 329, 332 " III " 118 Narwhal, 123 Nassaro, Matteo del, 226, 227 National Gallery, London. See London, National Gallery "Navette" pendants, 246 Neckam, A., 92 Newman, Mrs., 339 Neck-chains, xl " medl., 113-17 " Renaiss., 236-41 Necklaces, xl, xliv " Anglo-Saxon, 58, 59, 74 " ancient British, 40 " Egyptian, 4 " Etruscan, 24 " Greek, 17 " hair, 19 cent., 331 " Italian, 15 cent., 172-3 " medl., 113-17, 121 " Phoenician, 10 " Renaiss., 236-42, 266, 285 " " perfumes worn in, 265 " rings worn on, 152, 261 " Roman, 29 " Romano-British, 45 " 17 cent., 291 " 18 " 313, 317, 318 " 19 " 328-31 Necklets, 113-17 " Renaiss., 239-40 Neck-ornaments, ancient Irish, 42 Nef, 246 " jewel, 252 Nene, 72 Neolithic Age, 47 Nephthys, 5 Neuburg, Amalia Hedwig of, 232 " Counts Palatine of, 232 " Dorothea Maria, wife of Otto Henry, Count of, 231 " Otto Henry, Count Palatine of, 230 Newcastle, William Cavendish, Duke of, 263 New College jewels, 96-8. See also Oxford New Year's gifts, 153, 213, 215, 220, 265, 302 Niello, Anglo-Saxon, 71-3 " Byzantine, 36 " Italian, 15 cent., 163, 168, 173 " on medl. brooch, 130 " on Tara brooch, 78 "Niello" designs, engraved, 284, 295 Nolin, P., 285 Norfolk, Duke of, 221 " " badge of, 110 Norman Conquest, 65 Normandy, peasant jewellery, 342, 343 Norsemen, ravages of England, 68 Northumbria, 60 Norway, peasant jewellery, 345 Nose-ornaments, ancient British, 40 Nouches, 70, 93, 111, 121, 141, 142, 145, 223 Nowche or nuche, 141, 223 Nummi bracteati, Anglo-Saxon, 59 "Nuremberg eggs," 275 Nuremberg, 194 " jewellery made at, 202 " Germanic Museum, 232, 238, 272, 349 " St. Lawrence's Church, 120 " Town Library, 175 " 16 cent., 188, 189 Nutwell Court, 253

Odobesco, A., 52 n. Olbia, forged jewels said to come from, 360 Olbrich, J. M., 338 Oldano, 275 n. Oliver, I., 303 " P., 293 Olonne, Countess d', 288 Oppenheim, Baron A., 155 Opus interrasile, Byzantine, 34, 35 " Roman, 30 Orleans, Duke and Duchess of (1408), 162

Orles, 106 Ornament engravings. See Engraved designs for jewellery Orpheus, 100 Osma, J. G. de, 204 Ossian, 331 Otho II, Emperor, 34 Ouch or owche, 141, 223. See also Nouches Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, 29, 60, 68, 73, 238, 298 " Ashmolean Fortnum collection, 264 " Bodleian Library, 63, 264 " New College, 123, 142, 149 " University Galleries, 293 Oxus treasure, 51

Paillons, 180, 260 Palestine, jewellery brought back from, 84, 86 Palissy, Bernard, 229 Palmer, Col. N., 68 " Thomas, 68 Panier, 319 Pantikapaion, 14 Paphos, 17 Paris, Bibliothèque Nationale, Cabinet des Médailles et Antiques, 30, 52, 53, 103, 185, 200, 225, 228, 245, 266, 292, 320, 330 " Dutuit collection, 139 " goldsmiths of, medl., 134 " Louvre, 3, 5, 6, 9, 12, 172, 272, 291, 297, 329 " " Campana collection, 23, 24 " " Davillier Bequest, 251 " " Galerie d'Apollon, 137, 139, 154, 249 " " Adolphe Rothschild Bequest, 139, 240, 245 " " Salle des Bijoux Antiques, 23 " " Sauvageot collection, 154 " Musée Cluny, 53, 108, 139, 250, 251 " Notre-Dame, 329 " Quai des Orfévres, 314 Parmigianino (Mazzuola), 233 Parrot, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 249 Parthey, G. F. C., 190-91 Partridge, Affabel, 220 " Mr. and Mrs., 339 Parure, 18 cent., 308 Pastes, 355-7 " imitating garnets, in Barbaric jewellery, 49-54 Paste jewellery, 18 cent., 314 " 19 " 328 Paternosterers, 124 Paton, J., 99 Patrick, St., 75 Pattern-books for jewellers, 17 cent., 280, 304 Pattern-books for jewellers, English, 18 cent., 310 Paul III, Pope, 199 "Paul's windows," 87 Peacocks, 35, 37 "Pea pod" ornament, 281, 289, 292, 293 Pearls, 314 " baroque, in Renaiss. pendants, 244 " " " toothpicks, 251 " in Byzantine jewellery, 33 " earrings, 234, 235, 291 " Q. Elizabeth's, 215 " false or mock, 314, 315, 357, 358 " pendent cluster, on jewels, 253 347 " pendent from Renaiss. jewels, 243 " perles à potences, 174 " ropes of, in the hair, 232, 316 " " as necklaces, 113, 239, 318 " "Roman," 358 " in Roman jewellery, 28 " Scottish, 121, 133, 356 " setting of, 15 cent., 174 " "Venetian," 358 " 19 cent., 328 Peasant jewellery, 341-7 " Dutch, 344-5 " Flemish, 345 " French, 342-4 " German, 346 " Hungarian, 197-8, 347 " Italian, 346 " Norwegian and Swedish, 345-6 " Portuguese, 347 " Spanish, 205, 347 Pectoralia, 138 Pectorals, Egyptian, 5 " medl., 135-46 Pembroke, Earl of, 116 Penannular brooch, xlii, xliii, 74 Pendants, xl " Anglo-Saxon, 58 " Egyptian, 5 " Etruscan, 24 " Flemish, 16 cent., 196 " girdle, medl., 159-60 " " Renaiss., 272, 275 " Italian, 15 cent., 169, 173 " medl., 118-26, 156 " Phoenician, 10 " Renaiss., 242-57 " " English, 212, 251-7 " " forgery of, 361 " " worn on hats, 223 " Roman, 29, 30 " 17 cent., 281, 291-4 " 18 " 309 Pendeloques, 291, 318 Pendulum, 93 Penicuik jewel, 221 Penruddock jewel, 252, 353 " Sir George, 353 Pent-à-col (pentacols), 113, 121, 242 Pepys, S., 367 Peres de eagle, 122 Perfumes in bracelets, 265 " in earrings, 234 " in necklaces, 265 " in pomanders, medl. 125-6 " " Renaiss., 275 Persia, 33, 34, 50 Persian origin of inlaid jewellery, 52 Peru, emeralds from, 205 Peruzzi, Vincenzo, 279 Petitot, J., 288, 293, 304 Petrossa, treasure of, 50, 52 Peutin, John, 90 Pewter, jewels of, 111, 131, 161 Pforzheim, 339 Philibert, Margrave of Baden, 250 Philip "the Good," Duke of Burgundy, 89 n., 90, 155 Phoenicians, 21 Phoenicians jewellery, 7-10 Phoenix jewel, 218, 254, 255, 286 Phillips, Robert 335 Phylacteries, 122 Pichon, Baron, 119, 130, 264 "Picture-cases" (miniature-cases), English, 17 cent., 303 Pictures, jewellery in, 82, 329, 348-54 " Flemish jewellery in, 89, 90 " German jewellery in, 145, 189 " Italian, 15 cent., jewellery in, 167-76 " Italian, 16 cent., jewellery in, 183 " medl. necklaces in, 114-15 " " rings in, 155-6 Pierre d' Alençon, 343, 357 Piers Plowman, 153 Pilgrims' signs, 107-11, 222 " forgery of, 360-1 Piloty, 338 Pinchbeck, 315-16, 327, 359 " Christopher, 316, 321 " Edward, 321 Pinnow, 238, 267 Pins, xi-xli " Anglo-Saxon, 57, 74 " ancient British, 41 " Romano-British, 45 Pinturicchio, B. B., 267 Plaquettes, 193 Plate-inlaying, 50 Plates or discs of gold, 11 " " ancient Irish, 43 " " Mycenæan, 12 Platinum, 311 Pliny, 28, 30, 32, 47, 355 Plon, Eugène, 184 Ploumyer, Allart, 208, 209 Plume decoration on hat, 111 Points, Renaiss., 267-9 Poison, medl. tests for, 123 " in rings, 32 Poitiers, Diana of, 266, 364 Pollaiuolo, A., 168, 174, 210 " P., 168 Polypsephi rings, 32 Pomander, design for, by Dürer, 191 " medl., 125-6, 160 " Renaiss., 270, 275 " in form of skulls, 364 " 17 cent., 296 Pomeambre, 125 Pompadour, Madame de, 311, 320 Pompeii, 311, 326, 363 Pompey, 29 Pompoms (buttons), Renaiss., 268 Pont-y-Saison, 46 Portinari, Tommaso, 114 " " daughter of, 114, 115, 117 " " Maria, wife of, 114, 144 Portland, Duke of, 221, 235, 354 Portraits, enamelled, as pendants, 17 cent., 292 " on bracelet clasps, 319-20 " on rings, Roman, 31 " " 18 cent., 320 "Portugal diamond," 300 Portugal, peasant jewellery, 347 Posy (posies), 128, 152, 262, 295, 296, 321 Pottery, glazed, 1 Pouches, medl., 165 Pouget, the younger, 312, 314, 317 Pourbus, Peter, 352 Prague, 188, 198 " Cathedral Treasury, 121 Præneste, 24 Prato, Girolamo del, 185 Prayer-books, enamelled gold, 218, 273, 274 Precious stones, imitation of, 355-8 " in modern jewellery, 337, 338 " setting of, in Renaiss. jewellery, 180, 260 " mystery of, 99-104 " 19 cent., 328 Predis, Ambrogio da, 172 Prerogative Royal, 44 Price, F. G. Hilton, 306 "Primavera," 169 "Primrose," Mrs., 350 Prutscher, O., 339 Ptolemaic jewellery, 6 "Pulvisculus aureus," 21 Purbeck, Island of, 47 Purled work, 19 cent., 327 Purses, Anglo-Saxon, 63 " medl., 165 Puy, peasant jewellery, 343 Pylon, 5 Pynson, R., 236 Pyrites, iron (marcasite), 315

Quartz, 313 " crystals, 357

Raab, H., 287 Rabelais, F., 199 Raibolini, Francesco. See Francia Raimbau, Mlle., 312 Raleigh, Sir Walter, 235 Rameses II, 4, 5 Raphael, 182, 226 Ravenna, 33, 70 " Sant' Apollinare Nuovo, church of, 36 " San Vitale, church of, 33, 36 Raynes, Robert, 237 Reasons, 152 Récamier, Madame, 326 Reccesvinthus, 54 Red Sea, 28 Rée, P. J., 275 Relics, 102, 108, 111, 118, 125 " in rings, 152 Reliquaries, Byzantine, 36 " Italian, 15 cent., 173 " medl., 118-19, 121, 160 " Spanish, 203, 347 Rembrandt, 291 Renaiss. jewellery, its general characteristics, 177-183 Renty, 316 Repoussé work, 11 " Byzantine, 34 " Egyptian, 3 " Etruscan, 21 " Greek, 13 " Irish, 43 " Renaiss., 227 Resons, 152 Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 313, 353 Rhenish enamels, 85-6 Rhine, Irish missionaries on, 67 Rhodes, 12 Richard I, K. of England, xliii, 128 " II " 94, 110, 114, 116, 141 " III " 116, 222 Ring-brooch. See Brooch Ring-money, 40, 43 Rings, xliv, xlv " Anglo-Saxon, 62, 71-3 " betrothal, 261-2 " ancient British, 40 " Byzantine, 37 " charm, 151-2 " with coins, Roman, 32 " with death's heads, 364 " decade, 150 " devotional, 149, 150, 152 " " signets, 153 " made by St. Dunstan, 67 " ecclesiastical, 147-9 " Egyptian, 2, 67 " engagement, 261-2, 296 " engraved designs for, 263, 264, 284, 295, 296 " episcopal, xlv, 148, 149 " Etruscan, 25, 26 " fede, 152, 261 " fyancel, 152 " giardinetti, 295 " gimmel, 152, 261 " Greek, 18 " with hair, 331 " worn on hats, 261 " iconographic, 149, 150 " of investiture, 148 " Italian, 15 cent., 170 " jet, 47 " Jewish, 262 " key-rings, Byzantine, 37 " " Roman, 31 " marquise, 321 " medl., 147-57 " " with antique gems, 96, 101, 103, 148-9, 153-4 " " with false stones, 356 " " forged, 360 " memento mori, 365-70 " memorial, 364-70 " mourning, 296, 321, 367 " Merovingian, 62, 73 " Mycenæan, 11 " worn on necklaces, 152, 261 " nielloed, Anglo-Saxon, 71-3 " " Italian, 15 cent., 173 " ornamental, xlv " " medl., 154-5 " " Renaiss., 258, 259 " " 17 cent., 295, 296 " papal, 148 " Phoenician, 10 " in pictures, 155-7, 261, 263, 295 " poison, 32 " polypsephi, Roman, 32 " posy, 152, 262, 295, 296, 321, 367 " with relics, 152 " religious, 149-50 " Renaiss., 258-64 " arranged along a roll of parchment, 155, 156, 170, 263 " Roman, 31 " Romano-British, 47 " Samothracian, 32 " in ancient sculpture, 18 " signets, xlv, 298 " " of Childeric I, 53, 63 " " Egyptian, 6 " " Greek, 18 " " medl., 153-154 " " Roman, 31 " " 17 cent., 298 " talismanic, 111 " Teutonic, à trois grains, 73 " wedding, xlv " " medl., 152 " " converted into memorial, 367 " " Jewish, 262 " " Renaiss., 262 " " 17 cent., 296 " " 18 cent., 321 " 17 cent., 295-6 " 18 cent., 309, 312, 320, 321 Rivard, C., 282, 291 Rivers, ornaments found in, 107 Roach Smith nouche, 69 Robin, 331 Robinson, F. S., 339 Rococo, 307, 308, 311, 324, 332 Rogart, 77 "Roman de la Rose," 113, 164 Roman jewellery, 27-32 Romano-British jewellery, 44-48 "Romantic" jewellery, 331 " style, 332 Romanus, Emperor, 34 Rome, Barberini Palace, 175 " Baths of Petus, 182 " Castle of St. Angelo, 334 " National Gallery, 225 " Vatican, 22 " " Appartamento Borgia, 267 " " Gallery of Constantine, 226 " " Library, 175 " " Loggie, 182 Romerswael, Marinus van, 156 Romney, Earl of, 273 Rosenheim, Max, 193 n., 294 "Rössel," "das goldene," 88 Rosso, Il, 201 Rosaries, 124-5, 156 " as bracelets, 157 Rosary beads in form of skulls, 364 Rosette, jewelled, on breast, 17 cent., 294 Rothschild, Baron F., 303 " Baron K., 197 Rotterdam Gallery, 232 Rouen, 128 " peasant jewellery, 343 Roy, 237 Rubens, P. P., 287 Rubies, 148, 260 " of Charles the Bold. See Three Brothers Rudolf II, Emperor, 100, 188, 189 Rudolphine Period, 188 Runic characters on Hunterston brooch, 79 Russia, Byzantine jewellery in, 38 " Greek jewellery in, 14-16

Sabines, 20 Sabra, princess, 224 Sacré Coeur, 345 Safety-pins, xli-xliii, 41 Saint, T. D., 312 St. Angelo in Vado, 333 St. Denis Cathedral, 137 " " treasury, 103 Saint Esprit, 343 St. Germain, Musée des Antiquités Nationales, 46 St. Helen's Church, Bishopsgate. See London St. Hilary, jewel of, 103 St. Paul's Cathedral. See London St. Petersburg, Hermitage Museum, 9, 15, 16 Saitapharnes, tiara of, 360 Salting, George, 119, 176, 224, 248, 263 Santini family, drawings by, 308, 317, 318, 344 Sapphires, 54, 151 Saragossa, treasury of the Virgen del Pilar, 144, 203, 249 Sarawak, Ranee of, 339 Sardinia, 8, 9, 21 Sardonyx, 31 Sarre, 59 " brooch, 60 Sarum, 138 Saur, C., 284 Savoy, peasant jewellery, 342 Saxons 50, 56 Scandinavians, 50 Scarabs, 2, 5, 6, 10, 25 Scent-cases, 125-6, 275 Schaffhausen onyx, 103, 104, 136 Schaper, Hugo, 238 Schliemann, H., 11, 40 Schneider, F., 137 Schönbrunn, 294 Schöpfer, H. 250 Schotenornamentik, 281 Schwarzornamente, 283, 289 Scissors suspended to girdle, 272 Scorpion, jewelled, 172 Scotland, introduction of Christianity into, 75 " Celtic brooches, 75-9 " medl. brooches, 131-4 Scott, Sir Walter, 301, 331 Scythian tribes, 14 Seal stone, Egyptian, 6 Seals, medl., 139 " pendent, 17 cent., 298 " 18 cent., 309, 312, 322-4 " 19 " 332 Seffrid, Bishop of Chichester, 149 Seghers, D., 287 Seneca, 29 Serpent bracelet, Roman, 30 " ring, Greek, 18 Set-Hathor, 5 Sévignés, 294, 298, 318 Shagreen jewel-cases, 362 Shale, Kimmeridge, 47 Shakespeare, W., 151, 216, 229, 237 " portrait of, 235 Shank (of ring), xlv Sheffield plate, 315 " steelwork, 315 Sherborne Castle, 267 Ships, pendants in form of, 249, 252, 253, 347 Shoe-buckles, 299, 321, 322 " -strings, 322 Shoes, rosettes on, 299 Shore, Jane, 115 Shrines, jewels on, 91, 108 Sicily, 27 " Arabs in, 84 " peasant jewellery, 347 " Roman plunder of, 27 Siena Cathedral, 175 " school of painting, 167 Signacula, 109, 111 Signs of pilgrimage, 107 Silhouette, Etienne de, 314 " designs, 283, 284, 289, 304 " portraits, 314 Silhouettes in mourning jewellery, 369 Silver jewellery worn by virgins, 342 Similor, 316, 359 Simon, James, 163 Simpson, E., 339 " T., 304 "Sippenaltar," 145 n. Sirens, pendants in form of, 250 Skeletons, 363-7 Skulls, 364-6 Slashes in garments, 259, 265, 268-9 Slides, 342, 343 " memorial, English 17-18 cent., 368 Sloane, Sir Hans, 72, 211, 255 Slott-Möller, H., 339 Smith, C. Roach, 62, 69 " J., 310 " R. Soden, 264 Sodoma (Bazzi), 233 Solder, Egyptian, 3 " Etruscan, 20, 21 " Greek, 13 " Phoenician, 8 " prehistoric, 39 Solis, Virgil, 193, 194 Somerset, Alfred in, 68 " Anne, Duchess of, 233, 273 " Edward Seymour, Duke of, 233, 273 " Robert Carr, Earl of, 235 Southampton, Henry Wriothesley, Earl of, 235 South Kensington Museum. See London, Victoria and Albert Museum Spain, Arabs in, 84 " Phoenician sculpture in, 9 " peasant jewellery, 347 " 16 cent. jewellery, 202-205 " 17 cent. jewellery, 294 "Spangle money," 59 Spenser, E., 217 Sphinxes, 5, 16 Spilman, Sir J., 301 Spinther, 30 Spiral ornament, 11 " " Celtic, 39, 75 Spitzer collection, 246 SS Collar, 116-17 Stabler, Harold, 339 Stafford, Lady, 154 Stalagmia, 29 Steatite, 5 Steel jewellery, 315, 319 Stephan, Master. See Lochner Stephanus. See Delaune, Etienne Stock-buckles, 322 Stoffels, Hendrickje, 291 Stoffler, W., 339 "Stomacher," 318, 350 Stone Age, 47 Stowe, J., 207 Stras or Strass, 314, 315, 357 Strawberry Hill, 257, 288 Strigel, Bernard, 189, 238 Stuart, Arabella, 299 " Henry, Earl of Lennox. See Lennox Stubbes, Philip, 215, 234, 272 Studded girdle, 161 Suffolk, Henry Grey, Duke of, 254 Sulla, 28 Sumptuary laws, 27, 93, 94, 161 Sustermans, J., 294 Svinthila, 50, 54 Swans on Byzantine jewellery, 37 Sweden, peasant jewellery, 345 Switzerland, use of marcasite in 18 cent., 315 " peasant jewellery, 346 Symonds, J. A. (quoted), 168, 185 Symony, P., 282, 284

Tableau or tabulet, 120 Tablets, votive, pendent, 119 Tag of girdle, xlvi, 160 Tags (aglets), 269 Talaura, 29 Talbot, 249 " Earl of Shrewsbury, badge of, 110 Talismans, 30, 99, 101, 109, 111, 121, 129, 132, 147, 151 Talismanic inscriptions on Scottish brooches, 111, 131 Tallien, Madame, 326 Taman, 14 Taplow buckle, 63 Tara brooch, 66, 78, 79 Tassels, Greek, 18 " of medl. clasps, 140 " Phoenician, 9 Tassie, J., 315, 330 Tauric Chersonese, 14 Tavernier, J. B., 278 Terrey, William, 304 Tet, 2 Teutonic jewellery, 51, 53 " nations, 56, 57 Tharros, 9, 10 Theban dynasties, 3 Theodamas, 100 Theodora, Empress, 33 Theophano, 34 Theophilus, 85, 356 Thirty Years' War, 189, 238, 276 Thomas à Becket, St., 91, 96, 109, 140 Three Brothers, jewel called, 209, 300 Three Kings of the East. See Kings Tiara of Saitapharnes, 360 Tiffany, Messrs., 339 Tinctura, 278, 351 Titian, 264 Titulus, 132 Toadstones, 100, 123, 151 Toes, jewels on, 19 cent., 326 Tongue of buckle, xlvi Toothpicks, 250-1 Tor Abbey, Devonshire, 365 Tornabuoni, Giovanna, 169 Torque, from Petrossa, 52 Torques bracchialis, 30 Torques, 236 " ancient British, 40 " " Irish, 42, 43 Touching-pieces, 123 Tournai, 52 Tours de tête, 328 Tousches, 123 Toussaint, Augustus, 313 Toutin, H., 285, 295 " J., 285, 293, 295 " J., in his workshop, 289 Tovaloccio Piero, Giovanni and Romolo del, 185 Tower of London. See London Townley brooch, 70 "Toys," "Toyman," 316 Tradescant, John, the younger, wife of, 298 Translucent enamel on relief. See Enamel, basse-taille Transylvania, 58 Traquair, Mrs., 339 Treasure hoards, 51 " Trove, 44 Treasuries, jewellery preserved in, 83 Trender, Peter, 220 Tressoures, 93, 105 "Triplet," 357 Triptychs, pendent, 119-20 Triquetra, 78 Triton, pendant in form of, 243, 249 Troad, 9 Trumpet pattern, Celtic, 43 " " on Tara brooch, 78, 79 Tucher, Baron, collection of, 225 "Tulipomania," 286 Tulips painted on enamel, 286 Turkey stone, 151 Turquoise, 3, 67, 151 Turner (potter), 315 Tuscany, schools of painting, 167 Twiselton, John, 208 Tymborychoi, 13 Tyrol, peasant jewellery, 346 Tyszkiewicz, Count, 17, 360 Tytler, P. Fraser, 257

Ucker-Mark (N. Germany), 267 Ugadale brooch, 133 Uffila brooch, 62 Uffizi Gallery. See Florence Umbria, peasant jewellery, 346 Unger, Elsa, 339 Unicorn, Master of the, 200 Unicorn's horn, 123 Unicorns on medl. jewels, 145 " on Renaiss. jewels, 243 Uniones, 28 University brooch, 78 Uræus, 2 Urban VI, Pope, 122 Usekh collar, 5 Usertsen III, 5 Utrecht, John of, 208 Uza or utchat, 2

Van den Hecke, J., 287 Van der Cruycen, L., 312, 317 " Doort, Abraham, 219 " Goes, H., 114, 117, 144 " Gow, J., 213 n. Van de Velde, H. C., 338 Van Dyck, A., 354 Van Somer, P., 352 Van Strydonck, L., 339 Van Thielen, J. P., 287 Vasari, G., 168, 227 Vatican. See Rome Vauquer, J., 287-9, 293 Vautier, 297 Velasquez, 294 Venetian pendants, Renaiss., 246 Venetians, sack of Constantinople by, 38 Veneto (Veneziano), Bartolommeo, 225 Venice, Byzantine jewellery in, 83-84 " Library of St. Mark's, 175 " in Middle Ages, 89 " port of, 15-16 cent., 167 " school of painting, 167 Vermiculated patterns in gold, Anglo-Saxon, 63 Vernicles, 130 Veronese, Paolo, 172 Veronica, 130 n. Verre églomisé, 203-4 Verrocchio, Andrea del, 168, 174 210 Versailles, Picture Gallery, 329 Verus, Lucius, 292 Vespasian, 28 Vespucci, Simonetta, 168 Vesuvius, 311 Vever, 338 Victoria, Q. of England, 257 Vienna, Imperial Art Collections, 30, 145, 185, 247 " Imperial Art Collections, Antiken-Kabinet, 228 " Picture Gallery, 155, 212 " Treasury, 188 " jewellery in, 18 cent., 308 " reproductions made in, 361 Vigée-Lebrun, Madame, 329 Vinci, Leonardo da, 172 Virgin, The. See Mary, the Blessed Virgin Visigoths, 50, 54 Vos, Cornelis de, 296 Vovert, J., 285 Vulci, 23, 24 Vyner, Sir Robert, 305

Waddesdon Bequest. See London, British Museum Wagner, Anna, 339 Walpole, Horace, 214, 257, 288 Walsingham Priory, 91, 108 War of Liberation, German, 330 Wars of the Roses, 95 Warwick, Earls, badge of, 110 "Wasps," 316 Watches, 16 cent., 274 " 17 cent., 274, 275, 297-8 " 18 cent., 309, 323-4 " egg-shaped, 275 " false, 324 " in form of skulls, 364 Watch-cases, pinchbeck, 316 " " 18 cent., 313 " -chains, hair, 331 " -keys, 18 cent., 310, 322-3 Waterton, Edmund, 71, 149 n., 264 " collection. See London, Victoria and Albert Museum Way, Albert, 257 Wedgwood, 315, 319, 321, 328, 330 Weimar, Picture Gallery, 261 Wells Cathedral, sculpture on, 128 Werner, J. H., 338 Westminster, 211, 268 " Abbey, 92, 102, 119, 141, 215 Whistles, pendent, 190, 193, 198, 250, 251 Wight, Isle of, 56, 57, 59, 60 Wild jewel, 218, 254 Wilde, W. R., 42 n. William I, K. of England, 91 " III " 306 " Duke of Juliers, 250, 259 " St., of York, 141 " of Wykeham. See Wykeham Williams, John, 238, 257, 302 Wilson, H., 339 Wilton House, 116 Winchester Cathedral, 98, 148 Windsor Castle, 219, 224, 225, 249, 257, 292 Witham, 74 Wittislingen, 62 Woeiriot, Pierre, 201, 219, 234, 246, 263, 366 Wolfers, P., 339 Wolgemut, M., 189 Wolsey, T., Cardinal, 208 Wootton-under-Edge (Gloucestershire), 116 Worley, Nicolas, 208 Wreaths, Byzantine, 35 " Greek, 16 " medl., 105 Wright, T., 101 Wykeham, William of, Bishop of Winchester, 96-8, 142, 149

Yecla, 9 York Minster, 138 " " shrine of the head of St. William, 141

Zerrenden, F., 339 Zona, 93 Zucchero, F., 253, 352, 353 Zundt, Mathias, 194