INDEX

Abu, Mount, 62

Adam’s Peak, 302, 311

Aden, outward and homeward call at, 12–15, 314

Adinath, Jain, pontiff, 131

Adyar Library, 247

Afghanistan, Amir of, preparations for reception of—

At Agra, 113–114, 122;

at Gwalior, 135–136

Aga Khan, 29

Agra—

Journey to, from Jaipur, 112;

arrival—the hotel, 112–113;

Pearl mosque, 113;

drive to the Fort—Akbar’s great gate, 113–114;

the Taj Mahal, 114–118—

its garden, 118–119;

the Jama Musjid mosque, 119–120, 123;

drive to the mausoleum of Itmad-ud-Daulat, 120;

churches, 121;

bazaars, 122;

excursion to Sikandra—tomb of Akbar, 122–125;

otherwise mentioned, 97, 144, 145

Ahmed Khan, 50, 51, 151

Ahmedabad—

Journey to, from Bombay, 48–49;

drive through the city, 49 et seq.;

mosques, 49–53;

cotton factories, 55;

bazaar and street life, 55–58;

native pottery, 58;

railway station, 62

Ajmir—

Journey to, from Ahmedabad, 62–63;

Akbar Fort, 64–65;

bazaars, 65–66, 70;

the Dargah, 66–68;

fort of Targarh, 67;

mosque of Arhai-din-ka-Jhonpra, 68;

Daulat Bagh, 68–69;

cantonments outside the native city, 69–70;

custom of nailing horse-shoes on the doors, 80

Akbar, Emperor, 64, 131, 155, 177;

tomb of, at Sikandra, 156

Alviella, Count Goblet d’, 41

Alcott, Colonel, 212, 247, 249

Alexandra, Queen, 13, 261

Altamash, 68

Altamsh, 157

Alu-ud-din, 80

Amber, deserted city and palace, 106–7

American tourists, 76, 84, 96–97, 134

Ammayanayakanur, 276

Amritzar—

Journey to, from Delhi, 161–162;

hotel touts, 162–163;

the hotel, 163–164;

drive through the—its open drains, 164;

the Golden Temple, 165–166;

carpet manufactory, 166–167;

interview with a native pedlar, 167–169;

the Atal tower, 169;

public gardens, 169;

departure for Lahore, 170

Anderson, Colonel, 185

Arab dhow, 15

Arabian coast, 12, 314

Arhai-din-ka-Jhonpra, mosque of, 68

Arjamand Bann, 117

Arnold, Sir Edwin, 118

Baker, Sir Samuel, 33

Bandakin, 112

Bapatia, 245

Bareilly, 45

Barielly, 184

Bearer, native, engagement of, 30–33

Bedding, need for travellers to supply their own, 35, 77

Begara, 59, 60

Benares—

Arrival at—Clark’s Hotel, 200, 216–217;

first impressions, 201;

the Guest house, 201–202, 205–206;

expedition to see the Buddhist remains at Sarnath, 201–205;

viewing the Ghats from the Maharajah’s peacock boat, 206–211;

the Burning Ghat, 209–210;

the Manikaranika Ghat and the Nepal Temple, 215–216;

pilgrims, 210;

the Golden Temple, 211;

Hindu College, 212;

the Monkey Temple, 212;

visit to the Maharajah in his palace, 213–215;

farewell glimpse of, 218

Bengal-Nagpur Railway, 241

Berhampore, 244

Besant, Mrs Annie, 212;

visit to, at Madras, 247–249

Bhutian peasants, 225–226, 235

Birdwood, Sir George, 29

Bitragunta, 245

Blavatsky, Madame, 249

Blow, Mr Detmar, 182

Bois, Mr, 290, 295

Bombay—

Impressions of, from the sea, 21;

the landing at, 21–23;

Malabar Hill, 21, 29–30;

street scenes, 24–25;

modern British buildings, 25–26;

Crawford market, 26;

bazaar, 26–28;

native wedding processions, 27–28;

Victoria Gardens, 28–29;

Victoria and Albert Museum, 29;

engagement of a native servant, 30–33;

oppressive heat, 46;

welcome of M. Dadabhai Naoroji to, 46–47;

cotton factories, 55

Bonifazio, straits of, 4, 317

Brahmans, 242

British administration, benefits of, discussed—causes of unrest, 141–143, 190–192, 199, 309–310

“Brothers, The,” lightship, 11, 315

Brown, Mr Percy, 179

Buddhism—

In Ceylon, 297;

remains of, at Sarnath, 201, 203–205—the Great Tope, 205;

Temple of the Tooth, 302

Buffalo cow, 36

Burmese people, discontent of, under British rule, 199

Cactus plant, 75

Caine, Mr W. S., cited, 55, 109, 118, 131, 151

Calabrian coast, 4

Calcutta—

Races at, 29;

National Congress at, 46;

journey to, from Benares, 218–219;

impressions, 219;

the Minto Fête, 219–220;

a Hindu soothsayer at, 220–221;

industrial exhibition, 221–222;

general impressions, 222;

otherwise mentioned, 198

Campbell, Colin, 189

Candia, 5

Caroline, Queen, 202

Carpet manufactory at Amritzar, 166–167

Carts, native, 22–23, 55, 104–105

Cashmere travelling merchants, 181

Ceylon—

Notes of, 290 et seq.;

decorative art of, 312;

native costumes in, 292–293, 298;

religion of, 297;

rubber trade in, 308–310;

tea-plantations of, 302–303, 305;

vegetation, luxuriant, and scenery, 299–301, 304–307, 310–311;

Western civilisation—its questionable benefits, 297, 301, 308–310

Ceylon Times, The, interview with editor of, 309–310

Charybdis, 4

Chitor, city of, 77–79

Chitorgarh—

Journey to, from Ajmir, 74–75;

night spent at, 75–77;

visit to the ruined fortress, 77, 79–81;

Tower of Victory, 81;

otherwise mentioned, 95, 108

Cinnamon tree, 300

Clan Campbell, s.s., 9

Clock towers, modern, in India, 194

Colombo—

Arrival at, 290–291;

general description of, 291–299;

garden of palms, 311;

museum, 311–313

Coromandel Coast, native costumes on, 242

Corsica, 4

Costumes, native, 56, 72;

in Southern India, 241–242, 252–253

Cotton factories, 55

Cotton yarn, preparation of, for hand weaving, 81

Cranes, white, 54

Crete, 5

Crows, Indian, 23

Cultivated Crops, 75

Cunningham, General, 205

Curzon, Lord, 119, 120, 122, 150

Cuttack, 241

Dacoits, 198–199

Daulatabad, 34, 36–37, 44–45

Dargah of Ajmir, 66–68

Darjeeling—

Journey to, from Calcutta, 223–226;

toy railway, 224–225;

general description, 226–227;

Woodlands’ hotel and its entertainments—the Tibetan masque, 227–232;

the town, 233–234;

walks and rides round, 235

Dauvergne, M., 33, 44, 45

Delhi—

Journey to, from Agra, 146–147;

arrival—British residential quarter—Kashmir Gate, 148–149;

Mutiny memorial, 149;

the palace—peacock throne, etc., 149–151;

Moti Musjid (Pearl mosque), 151;

Jama Musjid mosque, 151–152;

Jain temple, 152;

the Chandni Chouk, 152–154;

excursion to the Kutab Minar, 154–158;

mosque of Shin Shah, 155;

Old Delhi, 155;

ancient city of Indrapat, 155;

tomb of Humayun, 155–156;

cemetery of Nizam-ud-din, 156–157;

driving experiences, 159–160;

departure, 161;

otherwise mentioned, 99

Delwara, 62

Digby, Mr William, 141, 191

Dindigul, 276

Dinghra, Dr, 166

Dowden, Mrs, 189, 194

Driving in India, risks of, 159

Dutt, Mr Romesh, 1

Dyeing, native methods of, 57, 104

East India Company, 131

Eastern life, influence of Western ideas on, 56, 94, 141–143, 190–192, 199, 309–310

Edward VII., 47, 261

Egyptian religion, parallelism between the Hindu religion and, 258

Elephants—

Excursions on, 77–78, 82, 107;

bathing of, at Kandy, 302

Ellora, caves of—

Journey to, from Bombay, 33–38—and back again, 44–46;

temple of Kylas, 38–43;

Buddhist temples, 43;

village of Ellora, 44

Enamel, Champlévé, 179–180

Etna, Mount, 4

Everest, Mount, 235

Famines, native, 141

Flaxman, 259

Flying fish, 15–16

Food at refreshment stations, unsatisfactoriness of, 254

“Forest flame,” 224

French tourists, 96

Fruit-bats, 61

Funeral, native, 93–94

Ganesha, the elephant god, 41, 81, 256

Ganges, scenes at the Ghats at Benares, 206–211;

the Burning Ghat, 209–210

Gardens, Eastern type of, 100–101

Girgenti, 40

Glass, convex-mirror-mosaic work, 87, 177

Gohad, Rana of, 131

Grace, A. F., 132

Graham, Cunninghame, 248

Gramophones in India, 99

Green ray, phenomenon of, 16

Gunj Baksh, mosque and tomb of, 59–60

Gwalior—

Arrival at—the Guest house, 127–128, 134, 136–137;

tomb of Mohammed Ghaus, 128;

drive to the Fort, 128–132;

palace of the Man Mandir, 129, 138;

Jain Temples, 130;

new town (Lashkar), 131, 134–135;

visit to Maharajah’s palace, 132–133;

sunsets over the Rock, 137–138;

description of the old town, 138–140;

departure—scene at the railway station, 144

Hail and thunder storms combined, 237

Hardy, Miss, 1

Harrison, T. Erat, 194

Hathi Sing, shrine of, 58

Herefordshire, s.s., 9

Himalayas—

Climbing in the, 227–229;

snow peaks of, 232–233, 237

Hindu and Tamil MSS., library of, 260

Hindus—

Educated, debarred from high administrative posts, 142

Religion of—nature worship in, 41, 279–280;

parallelism between the Egyptian religion and, 258

Temples of—at Madura, 277–283;

at Seringham, 272–275;

at Tanjore, 255

Weddings of, 27–28

Women, 33, 45, 104, 174

Hiroshigi, 20

Horton, Lady, 301

Hotel life, picturesque feature of, 84–85

Humayun, Tomb of, 155

Hunt, Holman, 249

Hunt, Mr Cyril Holman, 298, 311

Hunter, Capt. J. B. Dalzell, 240

Hunuman, Hindu god, 41

Hunuman, the monkey god, temple of, at Benares, 212

Hyndman, Mr H. M., 142

India Office, policy of, 141–143, 190–192, 199, 309–310

Indian Ocean, incidents on voyage in, 17

Iqd-i-gul, or The Rose Necklace, 240–241

Irrigation wells, 170–171, 196;

of Southern India, 243–244

Ismailia, 9

Israelites, passage of, through the Red Sea, 11

Ivory carver’s workshop at Delhi, 153–154

Jack fruit, 300–301

Jagmandir, palace of, 88–91

Jahanara Begum, 156

Jahangir, 89

Jain pontiffs, sandstone carvings of, 131

Jain sect, persecution of, 279

Jain temples at—Ajmir, 68;

Chitorgarh, 81;

Delhi, 152;

Gwalior, 130;

Udaipur, 86–87

Jaipur—

Journey to, from Ajmir, 97;

first impressions, 97–99;

the city, “the rose-coloured city,” 99–100, 116;

bazaars, 101–102, 104–105, 110;

enamelled jewellery of, 101, 102;

spherical rolling lamps of, 102;

the Maharajah’s state elephant, 102–103;

the Maharajah’s palace, 103–104, 118;

street scenes, 105–106;

the Maharajah’s horses, 110–111

Jehan, Shah, 69, 89, 113, 114, 119, 150

Jhansi, 145

Jijibhai, Sir Jamsetji, 29

Jopling-Rowe, Mrs, 196

Jubbelteer, Island of, 12

Jugglers, native—the mango-tree trick, 187–188

Juggernath—

Temple of, 86–87;

festival of the Krishna at, 241

Juggernaut, pilgrims from, 242

Jullumpore, 161

Kali, goddess, 109

Kandy, visit to—its scenery and foliage, 299–302

Khusru, 156

Kinchin Junga, view of, 227, 232–233, 237

Kipling, Mr, 177, 179

Kites, Indian, 23–24, 110

Koh-i-noor diamond, the, 125

Krishna, festival of, 241

Kunja Sahib, shrine of, 66

Kutab Minar, 157–158

Kutab-ud-din, 157

La Nera, s.s., 2

Lahore—

Journey to, from Amritzar, 170–171;

the Charing Cross hotel, 171;

British residential and business quarter, 171–173, 178–179;

native quarter, 173–175;

bazaars, 175–176;

the Fort, 176–177;

the Samadh, 178;

Jama Musjid, 178;

Wazar Khan tiled mosque, 178, 181;

Courts of Justice, 179;

Museum, 179–180;

street scenes in, 181;

visit from the Princess Duleep Singh, 182;

departure for Lucknow, 182–183

Lamps, spherical rolling, 102, 222

Lashkar, 131, 134–135

Laurence, Lord, statue of, 179

Laurence, Sir Henry, 192

Leaf insects, 311–312

Lèsseps, M. de, 317

“Light of the World, The,” 249

Lipari Islands, 317

Longden, Lady, 301

Lucknow—

Journey to, from Lahore, 183–184;

Wurtzler’s hotel, 185;

in hospital, 185–186;

native jugglers—the mango-tree trick, 187–188;

ruins of the Residency, 189–190, 192;

the Sikander Bagh, 189–190;

Chatter Manzel, 192;

architecture of, 192–193;

Jama Musjid, 193;

the Iambara, 193–195;

bazaar of the old city, 194–195;

through the bazaar on elephants, 196–197;

the Martinière, 197–198

Lyons, 198

Macarthy, Lady, 301

Madura—

Scenery near, 276;

visit to the Great Temple, 276–283;

the Temple Courts, 283;

Teppa Tank, 284;

gigantic Banyan tree, 284;

palace of Tiramala, 284–285;

silk industry, 285–286;

table decorations at, 286

Madras—

Journey to, from Calcutta, 239–245;

arrival—the Castle Hotel, 245–246;

public buildings and street scenes, 246–247, 249–251;

temperature at, 247;

visit to the Adyar library, 247–249;

Toddy Tappus, 249;

jin-rickshaws, 249–250;

Botanic Gardens, 251

Mahmudshah, 59

Malabar Hill, 21, 29–30

Mandal, 75

Maratha chiefs, 151

Marble—

Piercing patterns in, 64–65;

suitability of Indian climate for preserving, 69

Marseilles, 2, 317

Martin, General or Captain—

Painting of, 193;

schools founded by, 197–198

Mayo, Lord, 100

Mecca, sign of having visited, on house walls, 8

Messina, 4

Migration of Symbols (d’Alviella), cited, 41–42

Mirza Jahangir, tomb of, 156

Missionaries, indifference of, to native religions, 275, 297

Mocha, 12, 314

Mogul Emperors, private chapel of, 113

Mogul Serai, 218

Mohammedans—

Educated, debarred from high administrative posts, 142;

Tombs of, 8, 59–60;

Weddings among the, 27;

Women, 104, 174–175

Mongolian peasants, 225–226

Monkeys, silver grey, 53, 59

Moonsawmy, 33, 125–126, 183

Mori, 63

Morley, Mr John, 142

Moses, well of, 11

Moti Musjid, 113

Mulich, Dr, 1

Munmad, a night at, 34–36, 45

Muslin, native method of printing on, 70

Mussulman mosque of Arhai-din-ka-Jhonpra, 68

Mutiny, memorials of, 189–190;

provocative causes of, 190

Nadir Shah, 151

Naoroji, M. Dadabhi, welcome of, to Bombay, 46–47

Naisirabad, 74

Nelson, Lord, bust of, 260

Nemnath, Jain pontiff, 131

Nizam of Hyderabad, 36, 38

Nizam-ud-din, cemetery of, 156–157

Nunnoya, 303, 310

Nuwara-Eliya, 302;

scenery at, 304–305;

the Magdala Gardens, 305–307

Parsees—

Burial place of, 30;

Merchant, description of, 24;

Weddings among, 28

Parvati, goddess, 41, 109, 256

Paul, Lieutenant, 198

Perrim, 12, 314

Picturesque India (W. S. Caine), quoted, 151

Pillai, Mr, 277–278

Pillour, 161

Plague, bubonic, 141

Ploughs, native, 74–75, 140

Ploughman, native, earnings of, 140

Poori, 241

Port Said, 316

Poverty of natives, 140–141, 143

Prang, Mr Louis, and Mrs Prang, 235–236

Prosperous British India (Digby), cited, 141, 191

Rai, Mr Laipat, 142

Railway travelling in India—

Facilities for, 48–49;

native travellers, 70–72

Rajpootana, 63, 77, 79

Ramayana, 1

Rani Sipri, mosque of, 51

Readymoney, Sir Cowasji Jehangir, 29

Red Sea, passage of, 11–12, 314

Rena, s.s., 10

Rhododendron, Cingalese, 306

Rozah—

Drive to, from Daulatabad, 36–37;

description of a night at, 37–38

Rubber trade of Ceylon, 308–310

Russia, Czar of, 206, 282

Ryot, Indian, average earnings of, 141

Said, Port, visit to, 5–9

Salaams, custom as to, 73

Sara, crossing the Ganges at, 223–224, 237

Sarbarmati River, scenes on, 53–54, 58–59

Sardinia, 4

Sarkhai, excursion to, 58–61

Saunders, Mr and Mrs, 197

Scott, Mr Ross, 188, 198

Schwartz, 259

Scylla, 4

Seringham—

Religious procession at, 282;

Temple of, 272–275

Shaw, G. Bernard, 248

Sheep, fat-tailed, 176

Sicily, 4, 317

Sidi Sayyids’ Mosque, 51–52

Sikandra, excursion to—tomb of Akbar, 122–125

Sikhs, religious centre of, 166

Silignis, 225–226

Silk-weaving at—

Ahmedabad, 55, 56;

Vizianagram, 244;

Tanjore, 262;

Madura, 285–286

Silver Lake, 242

Sinai, Mount, 11

Sindhia, 131

Singh, Princess Duleep, 181–182

Siva, god—

Representations of, at Madura, 278, 279, 280, 281, 283;

sacred bull of, 255–256;

sacred mark of, 242, 253;

otherwise mentioned, 41, 109, 256

Sketching, native interest in, 283–284

Sorabji, Miss, 220

Soumalis at Aden, 13–15

South Kensington, Indian museum at, 52

Spartivento, Cape, 4

Squirrels, palm, 36, 59, 136

Stromboli, 317

Suez, call at, 10, 315

Suez Canal, passage through 9–10, 315–316

Sun, eclipse of, 167

Table decorations of Southern India, 286

Taj Mahal—

Visit to, and account of, 114–118;

gardens of, 118–119;

compared with the Itmad-ud-Daulat, 120;

moonlight visit to, 120–121;

sketches of, 121

Tamils, 297

Tanjore—

Journey to, from Madras, 251–254;

accommodation at, 254–255, 269;

the old fort and Hindu Temple, 255–258;

religious procession at, 258;

Christian church at, 258–259;

palace of the Maharajah, 259–261;

description of—street scenes, etc., 261–264;

decline of Western influence at, 263;

native theatre, 264–268;

native pedlars—Tanjore craftsmanship, 268–269;

water carrying, 270

Taormina, 4

Taragarh, Fort of, 67

Tea, Ceylon, colour of beverage, 305

Tea plantations of Ceylon, 302–305

Theatre, native, at Tanjore, 264–268

Theosophical Society, headquarters, 247

Threshing of grain, native methods, 252

Thull Ghat, 34

Tibetan fat-tailed sheep, 176

Tibetan masque at Darjeeling, 229–232

Tiled mosques, 178

Tourane, s.s., 313

Trinchinopoly—

Arrival at—general impressions, 270–272, 275;

visit to the temple of Seringham, 272–275;

the Rock of Trinchinopoly, 275

Tuticorin, 287–289

“Twelve Apostles, The,” 12

Udaipur—

Native group from, 76;

journey to, from Chitorgarh, 82–83;

hotel experiences, 83–84;

place of tombs, 85–86;

palace of the Maharajah, 87–88;

excursion to the palace of Jagmandin, 88–91;

feeding of the Maharajah’s wild pigs, 91–92;

the Maharajah’s gardens, 93;

Victoria Institute, 93;

departure from—the station, 94–95

Umballa, 161, 183

Villuparam, 254

Vishnu, 86, 272, 273

Vizianagram, 244

Voyages out and home, descriptions of, 1–20, 313–317

Wales, Prince and Princess, 167, 206, 282

Waltair, 244

Water filter and water bearers at railway stations, 75

Watts, G. F., 76

Wax, raised designs of, on textiles, 179

Webb, Sidney, 248

Wedding processions in Bombay, 27–28

Western civilisation, questionable value of, 94, 308–310

Women, native, costumes of, 105, 174–175

Zebu bulls, 256, 280

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