INDEX.

Abadeh, 261, 356

carvings, 332

Abbah, the, 319

Abbas Kūli Khan, 215

the Great, 161

Abdul, 285

Abdul Hamid, 276, 353

Abdullah’s types, 9

Abdul Mahomed, 64

Ab-i-Rūkhni, 218

Ab-i-Zungi, 218

Ableh, 62

Abū Seif Mirza, 59, 84

Senna, 82

Accident to Mr. H⸺, 128

Accidents in driving, 374

Actors, Persian, 282

Aden, 343

Administration of justice, 146

Adulteration of opium, 180

Afghan poosseens, 319

(?) tiles, 198

Aflatoon, 82

Agha Hassan, 109

Ahs an Ahs, 96

Ahū, 167

Aid-i-No Ruz, 48, 51

Akbar Khan, 402

Alangū, 323

Alarm of robbers, 130

Alexander the Great, 378

coins of, 76

Algiers, 342

Ali Akbar, 282

death of, 283

Ali Oh! 43

Alison, His Excellency Mr., 48, 201

Alla Sung, 392

Alligators, 344

American missionaries, 144

Aminabad, 262

Ancient Armenian language, 140

buildings, disappearance of, 364

engraved ruby, 37

Julfa, 161

mud-houses, 137

Anderūn, 92

Anecdote of a dervish, 47

re smoking, 32

Aniline dyes, 149

dyes, prohibition of, 63

Animals, treatment of, 316

Antelope hunt, 86

Antelopes, 56

Apostate monk, 139

Appetites, large, 336

Apricots, 168

April, the 1st of, 330

Arab dress, 110

horse, my, 61

horses, 106

pipe, 33

Arachnoort, the, 138, 141, 159

Ararat, hailstones at, 391

Araxes river, 19, 313

‘Arcot,’ voyage in the, 341

“Armchair,” 136

Armenian Alsatia, 142

artificers, 162

baptism, 141

church, 160

converts, 164

cook, 363

fasts, 144

grateful, 93

graves, 162

jewellers, 162

Kaweh Khana, 163

loafers, 143

marriage of, 141

priest, 132

Protestant teacher, 140

schools, 144

scriptures, 140

theatre, 9

tribute, 376

village, 131

wine-sellers, 142

women, dress of, 132

women, industry of the, 360

Armenians, 72, 110

anecdote of, 73

apostatising, 111

bread, 336

carpenters, good, 123

character of, 316

disguised as Europeans, 72

education of, 144

former oppression of, 144

idleness of the, 359

improved position of, 144

of Hamadan, 72, 74

position of in Persia, 74

sanctity of, 73

successful, 143

taken to Julfa, 161

uncleanliness of, 316

Arms, 322

Arnold, Mr. Arthur, 273

Arrack, 141, 159, 360

Art of avoiding falls, 54

Arts, lost, 162

Asparagus, wild, 168

Ass, wild, the, 308

Assadabad Pass, 101

Astrachan, 405

As we turn in another turns out, 110

Attempts to proselytise among the Persians, 144

Audience at Tazzia, 281

Austrian officers, 371

Avadavats, 347

Avicenna, 82

Ayrton, Mr., 5

B⸺, Mr., 27, 213

B⸺, Rev. R., 340

Baab, cursing, 155

Baabi artificers, 164

conspiracy, 154

death of a, 154

revolt, 272

Baabiism, tenets of, 154, 339

Baabis, 144, 339

charges against, 154

visit to, 201

Baab, 153

Bad drainage, 153

Badraghah, 56

Bad water, 153, 241

Baghalli, 236

Bagh-i-No, 218

Bagh-i-Takht, 220, 292

Baker, an ungrateful, 183

Bakhtiaris, 262

Bakū, 403

Bamiah, 170

Bankers, 192

Bank-notes, edict as to, 63

Baptism, Armenian, 141

Barber’s Bridge, the, 389

Bargain for mules, a, 381

Bargains, 187

Barley, 102

Bastinado, the, 146

at Kūmishah, 254

degrees of, 148

Bath carpets, 152

at Constantinople, 212

the, 334

Bazaar, at Teheran, 372

breakfasts, 200

practice, 182

Bazaarcha Baland, 200

Bazū-band, 290, 323

Bear and dog fight, 227

Beards, 321

Beaters, 177

Bēbē Sakineh Sultan Khanūm, 215

Bedding for travelling, 55

Bedding horses, 101

Beef, 142, 299

Beetles, road, 215

Bell tower, Julfa, 139

Bells, substitute for, 139

Belly-dance, the, 115

Belt, the, 320

Belūchistan, 345

Berlin, 407

Besitūn, 109

Bewitched, 65

Bishop Moses, 138

of Julfa, the, 159

Thaddeus’s tomb, 158

Bishop’s, the, pictures, 159

Bits, native, 329

Black-wood furniture, 345

Black flags, 283

Sea, 9

Blandford, Mr. W., 321

Blowing from a mortar, 203

from guns, 202

Boat-building, 247

Boat journey, 210

Boiled to death, 272

Bombassi, 326

Bonaat, 77

Bookbinding, 288

Boorio, 197

Boots, 321

Borasjūn, 348

Boulevard at Teheran, 371

Bowin, 392

Boy dancers, 246

singers, 281

Boys, a mob of, 393

Bread, varieties of, 335

Breasts as ornaments, 132

Bribery, 189

Bribing postmaster, 13

Bricking up alive, 269

Brickwork, fine, 222

Bridge of tombstones, 163

Brigands, 263

Broom plant, 309

Bruce, Mrs., 164

Rev. Dr., 164

Bulbul, 114

Bull-terriers of Zil-es-Sultan, 366

Bunder Abbas, 345

Burial of a Christian child, 140

Burke, Captain, 344

Burmese Embassy, 376

Burning alive, 204

Bushire, 345

“Butcha,” 326

Butchers, 299

Buttermilk, 171

Buy a horse, 206

grapes for wine-making, 229

Buying horses, 58

C⸺, Major, 3

Cah (Kah), 174

Calico printers, 200

rinsers, 193

Call to the bath, 72

Camel, bite of the, 243

fight, 242

tics, 392

Camels, mode of procuring fighting, 242

Campanile, the, Julfa, 157

Camp out, 348

Captain Burke, 344

Hansard, 343

S⸺, 179

T⸺, R.E., 278

Carapet, Mr., 357

Caravanserai Gulshan, 200

Mokhlis, 182

Carboys, 236

Card-playing, 96

Carpets, Persian, 149;

1883, 150

all wool, 151

Bath, 152

colours of, 150

fast colours, 149

faults in, 150

“Gelīm,” 152

increase in price of, 153

“Jejīm,” 152

Meshed, 149

mode of laying, 152

“Nammad,” 152

of great value, 151

of Mūrghāb, 151

old, 149

patterns of, 150

quality of, 150

value, 151

why they last, 150

Carvings, Abadeh, 332

Cashmere shawls, 274

Caspian steamer, 211

Cathedral of Julfa, 100

Cats, long-haired, 305

ordinary, 305

Causeways, 198

Cavalry, irregular, 266

Cells of students, 197

Cemetery, Armenian, 162

Chaff beds, 20, 25

Chah Ali Bunder, 275

Chambers, Captain, 127, 176

Character of Armenians, 316

Persians, 314

Char Bagh, 135, 196

Chardūr, 325

Chargāt, the, 322

Charlesiah, 132

Charms, 291

Cheap freehold, a, 206

Cheapness of ice, 240

Cheese, tale of the phantom, 172

Chelinjeh Khan, 223

Chess, 97

Chibouque, 32

Children, dress of, 325

Cholar wine, 229

grape, 232

Cholera, 224

Chuppering, rules of, 259

Chupper khana, interior, 25

a, 386

whip, 22

Church Missionary Establishment, 165

Church Missionary Schools, 144, 163

Church Missionary Society, educational work of, 144

Church of England, 166

Jesuits, 143

Civil suits, 189

Claim to sanctity of Armenians, 73

Classical Persian, 278

Clay biscuits, 334

Cleanliness of Persians, 316

Clemency, royal, 317

Climate, variable, 339

Clothes of Persians, 318

Cocculus indicus, 129

Coffee à la Turca, 6

Coinage, new, 371

Collars, difficulty of washing, 153

College at Ispahan, 196

Teheran, 338

Collins, Sergeant, 293

place of murder of, 351

Colonel Prideaux, 346

Colt, anecdote of a, 103

grey, 239

Comfort of travelling, 55

Common flowers, 172

Complexion of women, 324

Compliments, Persian, 28

Concubines, 326

Confiscation, 155

Constantinople, 5

Conversation with king’s son, 165

Cook, my, tries to take priest’s orders, 139

Cooks, 297

Cook-shops, 298

Coral reef, 342

Cossack regiments, 370

Cost of living, 186

Costume, Persian, 317

of women, 322

Court costume, 50

Courtiers, 199

Cream, mode of obtaining, 171

Credit, 188

Crickets, mole, 216

Crops, 173

Croquet lawn, 167

Crucifixions, 204

Cruelty to horses, 329

to a nun, 140

to Yari, 78

Cruelties to Mirza Naim, 272

Crying off, 188

Cucumber jam, 92

Cuisine, Persian, 296

Curdled milk, 171

Curio buying, 332

Curious accident, 128

ring, 376

Cursing Baab, 155

Curtain in Armenian church, 140

Custom-house, 267

Custom of Shiraz, 379

the Kūrūk, 370

Cut straw, 174

Cyrus, tomb of, 355

D⸺, Mr., 51

Damage to telegraph line, 113

Damascening, 189

Dar, the, 201, 282

Darius, treasure of, 78

Daroga, the, 371

Day in Ispahan, 200

Day of Judgment, picture of the, 161

Debauchee, a, 244

Decorated pond, 50

Decorations, church interior, 160

Dehbeed, 356

tax-man at, 133

Delleh, 69

Demarvend, 373

Dervish and puppets, tale of, 285

at tomb of Hafiz, 278

Dervishes, 42

at Tazzia, 281

garden, 46

hats, 44

horn, 46

mode of begging, 44

vices, 46

vows, 43

Desht-i-arjeen, 350

Diana, temple of, reputed, 107

Dig for treasure, we, 79

Dilgoosha, 220, 274

Dinner on road, 107

sent away, 245

with a Persian prince, 114

Discipline, 71

Disguise of robbers, 264

Dispensary, my, 200

over the prison, 182

Doctors, 33

Doctors, studies of, 338

Dog-cart, my, 248

Dog, loss of, 129

Dogs, varieties of, 306

Doherty, Mr., 401

Dome, tiled, 196

Donkeys, 365

handsome, 342

Doogh, 171

Doong, 391

Door, substitute for, 394

Doors at Erzeroum, 213

silver, 196

Double snipe, 107

Dozd-gah, 262

Dr. Hoernle, 163

Dr. Odling, 351

Dressel’s, 408

Dresses of honour, 51

Dress of dervishes, 43

Dried bread, 336

fruits, preparing, 169

Drink in Julfa, 141

Drive to Ispahan, 373

Drunkards, Persian, 141

Dubbeh, 188

Ducks, wild, 176

Dunaberg, 407

Dung beetles, 216

Duration of journey, 412

Durbend, 404

Dyah, 326

Dying twice, 203

Early rising, 33, 116

Eating opium, 181

Ecbatana, 80

Economy of trading class, 172

Educated women, 339

Education, 337

of Armenians, 144

Effects of Bastinado, 148

Egglesiah Wang, 138, 157

Embassy, the English, 372

Embroideries, 333

Enamels, 331

English missionaries, 155

Engraving on metal, 332

seal, 184

Enzelli, 210, 402

Episcopal throne, 160

Erivan, 19

Eructation, politeness of, 91

Erzeroum, 212

Esther, tomb of, 75

Etiquette, 28

Evil eye, the, 325

Exaggeration, 315

Execution of a Baabi, 154

of a Prince, 125

of a woman, 275

of women, 122

Executions, 202

Expelled nun, 163

Expenses, our, 187

Eyebrows, painting the, 325

Eyn-ul-Molk, 38

Fair hair at a discount, 324

Faithless women, fate of, 275

Faizabad, 356

Fallen fruit, 311

Fals, 277

Famine, 251 to 255

at Ispahan, 253

at Kūmishah, 254

at Shiraz, 253

grain seized during the, 252

rise in mule-hire during the, 251

Fantails, 94

Fards, use of, 323

Farnooses, 115

Fars, 272

Fast of Ramazan, 284

Fasts, Armenian, 144

Father, the, 314

Fathmeh, 387

Fee, compulsory, of a vizier, 255

Feen, 386

Fellek, 147

Fellow-travellers, Persian, 215

Felt coats, 152, 320

Feramūsh Khana, 124

Ferhad and Shireen, 119

Feridan, 131

Fermenting of wine, 232

Ferns and bush vegetation, 400

Fight amongst robbers, 265

Fighting rams, 308

Figures of (?) Fame, 119

Finn, Mr., 310

Firdūsi, 338

Fire temple, 364

Firewood as a crop, 364

weighing, 25

Fireworks, 377

Firman, Royal, 257

First cousins, 326

fruits, 168

professional, visit, 41

Fish in hot spring, 348

in kanāats, 128

poison, 129

poisoning, 386

Flap-jacks, 335

Flat, the, 405

Flirtations, the Prince’s, 280

Flowers, common, 172

near Caspian, 400

wild, 173

Foods of poor, 336

Forests near Caspian, 400

Forged antiquities, 76

Fortune-tellers, 120

Freehold, my cheap, 206

Frogs, 398

Frozen wine, 58

Fruit, fallen, 311

Fruits, 168

“Furder,” 126

Furniture, black-wood, 345

want of, 123

Fussa, 240, 243

fertility, 247

Governor of, 244

Futteh Ali Shah’s family, 59

G⸺, Colonel, 2

G⸺, Mr., 97

Gambling in Pera, 9

Game, 299

Games, 97

Gardening, 309

Garden-parties, 311

Gardens at Shiraz, 223

Gate of Royal Garden, 198

Gelim, 152

Georgian ladies, 17

Gersteiger Khan, the Baron, 370

Gez, 158, 383

Ghilān shoes, 399

Gholam, a bold, 178

Girls’ school, 165

Goggles, 54

Golden pipes, 112

Goldsmid, Sir F., 56, 157, 417

Goor Khur, 308

Gougas, 127

Governor of Fars, 135

Fussa, 244

Governor’s garden, 199

Grain, extracting, 174

stores, curious, 385

Grape feeding of horses, 103

sugar, 171

Grapes as horse feed, 171

varieties of, 171

Grateful Armenian, 93

Graves, Armenian, 162

Great square of Teheran, 52

Gregor, Saint, 160

Greyhounds, 305

“Grimes,” 344

Guebre-abad, 385

Guebre gardener, 369

Gulf Arabs, 106

Gulhaek, 369

road, 36

Gūlpigon, 127, 132

Gulshan caravanserai, 200

Gūmrūkji, anecdote of a, 237

Gun at sunset, 284

Gunge, a, 77

Guns, blowing from, 202

Gurken, 216

Gymnastics, 98

H⸺, Mr., 128

Habashi, 326

Hadji, 121

Hadjiabad, 354

Hadji Ali Akbar, 229

Baba, 3

Kawam, 272

Khalleel, 109

Mahomed, 381

Saduk Ispahani, 192

Hadji Mirza Kerim, 192

Hafiz, tomb of, 276

Hailstones, large, 391

Hair of women, 323

wearing the, 321

Hajeeb, 392

Hakim-bashi, 201

princes, the, 145

Hamadan, 57, 64

vines at, 311

wine, 57

Hamilton poles, 301

Handicrafts, 189

Hansard, Captain, 343

Harem, the, 39

Hassir, 197

Hats, 223, 320

Headgear, 321

Head-rolling dervish, 43

Health of the staff, 296

Henna, 334

High priest, anecdote of, 290

Highway robbers, 263

Hippocrates, 82

Hissam-es-Sultaneh, 204

Hockey, Sergeant, 127

Hoernle, Dr., 163

Home-life of families, 92

Honesty of Ispahanis, 192

Hornet, death from sting of, 250

Horse-breaking, 352

Horse clothing, 90

feed, 102

market, the, 201

Horses, breeds of, 104

grape feeding on, 103

height of, 100

on grass, 103

price of, 106

Hospitality, strange want of, 267

Hotel at Kasvin, 395

de Byzance, 212

Hot spring, 348

Houssein and Hassan, 279

Khari, 201

Kūli Khan, death of, 262

name of, 281

House-building, 126

House, I buy a, 206

snakes, 307

Huge tent, 280

Hughes, Mr., 127

Hunting party, 84

I am mobbed, 82

I am robbed, 263

Ibrahim, 383

Ice, cheapness of, 246

mode of making, 241

Ices, 240

I commence the cornet, 72

I decorate a house, 206

Idleness of Armenians, 359

I fall among brigands, 259

Illness, 207

of Zil-es-Sultan, 255

Imādieh, 118

Imād-u-Dowlet, 108

looted, 119

Imād-u-Dowlet’s bad son, 124

Imām-i-Juma, 153, 199

Imām Riza, 387

Imāmzādeh Hāshem, 400

Immorality of Armenians, 138

pigeon-flying, 94

Impregnable village, 262

Impromptu entertainment, 312

Indelicate dress of ladies, 40

Indian lottery, 340

Industry of Armenian women, 360

Infants, 325

Inlaid work, 332

Interest, rate of, 76

Interior of house of a grandee, 39

mosque, 97

Intricate carpentry, 39

Intrigues of Shiraz women, 276

Ironing, 333

Iron poles, 301

Irregular cavalry, 266

Irreligion common, 339

Irrigation, artificial, 127

Iskender, 378

Ispahan, 215

arrival at, 135

Ispahan bridge, 135

cobs, 105

Ispahani, honesty of, 192

Ispahan priests, 197

start for, 127

Istikhara, 277

Istikhbal, 56, 109

J⸺, Colonel, V.C., 217

J⸺, Mr., 387

Jack and Jill, 83

Jade teapot, 201

Jaffir Kūli, 381

Jahn-i-ma Garden, 276

Japanese embassy, 377

Jars of sweets, broken, 258

Jeddah, 342

Jejim carpets, 152

Jesuits, church of, 143

Jewelled belts, 320

wand, 258

Jewellery, 323

Jewish sacrifice, 258

shrines, 75

Jews, 74, 146

at Erzeroum, 213

burial-ground, 293

oppression of, 146

thrown into tank, 52

treatment of, 377

Jika, the, 322

Johannes, Mr., 144, 163

Jokes of robbers, 267

Journey home, 208, 381

through Turkey, 213

Juba, the, 318

Judicious bishop, 139

Julfa, 135, 137

ancient, 161

cathedral, 157

cemetery, 162

customs, 359

doorways, 142

emigration, 143

nunnery, 139

origin of, 161

priests, 363

quarters, 206

Justice, 146

Persian, 295

Kabobs, 89, 297

Kafsh, 321

Kah, 174

Kah-gil, 369

Kahtam, 332

Kakheite wine, 18

Kalāat, meeting the, 255

my, 258

of Kawam, 258

Kalam-dan, 288

Kalian, 15

Kalians, details as to, 29

Kalifa, Kuchek, 138

Kammer, 142

Kanāats, 127

Kangawar, fish in, 128

temple at, 107

Kanjar, 320

Karabagh, 219

horses, 105

Karageus, 6

Kara Sū, the river, 108

Kashan, 385

Kashish Mardyros, 141

Kasim, wedding of, 282

Kasvin, Syud at, 208

Kawam, 257

Kalāat of, 258

Kawamabad, 355

Kawam-u-Dowlet, 239

Kawam-ul-Molk, 270

Kazerūn, 349

Keesa, the, 334

Kemball, Sir A., 208

Kemmerbund, 320

Kemmercheen, 318

Kerbela, 271

Kerbelai, 387

Kermanshah, 109

cheapness of, 112

Kerman shawls, 162

wine, 235

Kerrij, 27

Kerrind, 126

Khana Zinyūn, 225, 351

Khan Wakeel, 243

Khedkhoda, a, 268

Kherrah, 393

Khona Khora, 260

Khonsar, 131

Khosro Mirza, 203, 205, 217

Khyat, a, 191

“King Panther,” 45

King’s palace, 49

poet, 51

relative, 90

Kishmish wine, 159

Kit for Persia, 3

Knitting socks, 142

Kōhrūd Pass, the, 384

Kola, the, 320

Mūschir, 222

Kolajah, 318

Konar Khora, 356

Koom (or Kūm), 387

Koomishah (or Kūmishah), 268

famine at, 254

Koordi tobacco, 33

Koran reading, 337

Kosh gūzeran, 223

Kossid, a, 355

Kotol, a, 282

Kotul Dokter, 349

Peri Zun, 350

Kotuls, the, 349

Kūh Sufi, 162

Kūm, 387

Kūmishah, 357

Kumrahs, 230

Kūrdi bread, 336

Kurrachee, 344

Kūrsi, 138

Kūrūk, the custom of, 370

Kuttl-i-aum, or general massacre, 272

Lady patients, 38

Shiel, 154

La Fontaine, M., 7

Lake Jeukjar, 18

Lallahs, 326

Law, teachers of the, 338

as to cheques, 239

muleteers, 382

Lawn-tennis, 369

Laying carpets, mode of, 152

Lazarist Fathers, 165

Led horses, 56

Lemur, 343

Letter, a Persian, 289

Lighted charcoal, mode of producing, 390

Lika-ul-Molk, 270

Lilium candidum, 173

Lilliane, 131

Lily, painting the, 173

Linga, 345

Lion and Sun, Order of, 258

country, 351

cubs, 222

the tame, 306

Lioness, story of a, 350

Lisbon, 341

Little bishop, 158

Living, cost of, 186

Lizards, 93

Lodahs, 231

Lost arts, 162

Lottery, Indian, 340

Lutf-Ali-Khan, 264

Lūti-pūti, 239

Lūtis, 306

Lying, 315

Macheelah plain, 347

Madame O⸺, 340

Mad dog, 83

Magazine rifle, 224

Mahomed Ali, 19

Mahomed’s pigeon, 94

Mahommed Ali Khan, 146

Houssein Khan, 19

Major S⸺, 208

Major’s dervish, the, 42

Major St. John, 350

Maker of antiquities, 201

Malek Mahommed Beg, 329

Malekneas Khan, 126

Managing Persians, 179

Man nailed to post, 112

nurse, 276

Manuring, 174

Marching by night, 353

in Persia, 413

March to Shiraz, 206

Mardiros, Kashish, 141

Mare, I buy a, 349

Marg, 269

“Marjahn,” 302

Marnūn, 364

Marriage of Armenian priests, 141

Martyr, a, 154

Mary’s flower, 173

Mashallah, 290

Masreh, 396

Mast, 171

Master of ceremonies, 49

of the mint, 369

Matting, varieties of, 197

Maxūd Beg, 268, 357

Mayar, 357

McGowan, Sergeant, 384

McIntyre, Sergeant, 357

McL⸺, Sergeant, 386

“Meana bug,” the, 26, 217

Medical missionary, 163

practice, 182

Medresseh, 338

at Ispahan, 196

Mehdi, 317

Mejdabad, 388

Melons, 169, 311

Memorial to Sergeant Collins, 295

Merand, 115

Merchants, 188

Meshed carpets, 149

Meshedi, 387

Aga Jan, 224

Mesrop, priest, 140

Milking sheep, 389

Millingen, Dr., 7

Minarets, the Shaking, 361

Minor crops, 174

Mir-achor, the, 103

Mirza Abdul Wahab, 145

Ali Akbar, 244

Hassan Ali Khan, C.I.E., 225, 242

Mahmoud, 271

Naim, 272

Zeynal Abdeen, 125

Missionary, American, 330

church, 165

medical, 163

M⸺, M., 210

Moallim, a, 337

Mob of boys, 393

Mocha coffee, 298

Modakel, 66, 81

Modern college, 338

Mohurrim, 279

Mokhlis caravanserai, 182

Mole crickets, 216

Money table, 63

Mongoose, 303

Monk, the, 159

Monteforte, Count, 371

Month of fasting, 284

mourning, 279

Moollah, Hadji Ali Akbar, 229

Moonshee, the, 81

Mordecai, tomb of, 75

Morning rides, 64

Mortar, blowing from, 203

Mortaza Ali, plane of, 364

Moscow, 211

Mosque, interior of, 197

I put up in a, 131

ruined, 177

sleepers in, 197

tile, 197

Mosquitoes, 340

Mote and beam, picture of, 161

Mother, the, 314

Mothers-in-law, 326

Motummad-ul-Molk, 271

Mouth cloth, 132

M. P⸺, 331

M. Schwab, 401

Mr. Ayrton, 5

Mud as mourning, 126

Muggerpir, 344

Mule-buying, 127

Mules, bargaining for, 381

worn out, 193

Muleteers’ manners, 381

ponies, 347

Mūllas, 198

Mūllavi, the, 380

Mumbar, 197

Munjil, 399

Mūrb ab, 401

Mūrchicah, 374

Murder of a Syud, 265

Mūrghab, 355

carpets, 151

Mūschir, 240, 257

bastinadoed, 271

Mūschir’s coachman, 352

life attempted, 271

Mūschir-ul-Molk, 270

Mūshtaheds, 188

Musical amateur, a, 312

Musicians, 114

and singers, 91

Musjid-i-Shah Ispahan, 135

Mussulman converts, 164

My cornet-playing, 71

Myedesht, 126

My first horse, 62

“hold-all,” 55

house in Julfa, 206

landlord, 360

road, 363

Mystery of a Persian traveller, 225

Naib-ul-Ayalut, 120

Naksh, 131, 325

Naksh-i-Rūstam, 119

Name of God in conversation, 290

Houssein, 281

Nammad carpets, 152

coats, 152

Narghil, 30

Narrow escape, 203

Nastorange, 309

Natanz, 373

Native agents, 71

bits, 54, 329

Natural hot bath, 348

Needlework, 334

New coinage, 371

year, 48

festival, 51

presents, 379

Night marching, 353

Nishan, the, 250

Nose rings, 323

Nawalla, 103

Nude dervish, 43

Nummud, 40

Nun, cruelty to a, 140

expelled, 163

Nunnery, 139, 163

scandals at, 140

school, 140, 163

Nuns, 163

prayers of the, 139

O⸺, Madame, 340

Odd disorders, 65

Odling, Dr., 351

Oil lamps, 75

paintings, 377

Old Woman, pass of the, 350

Omar, ridicule of, 283

Omen, mode of taking, 277

Omens, 277

Opera at Moscow, 211

Opium, 180

adulteration of, 180

collecting the, 173

eater, an, 380

eating, 181

packing, 181

preparation, 180

Orcheeni, 269

Ordinary executions, 202

Orphanage at Shiraz, 253

Orphans, fate of, famine, 253

Orūssēe, 57

Our cook, 379

telegraph staff, a grievance of, 133

Out-door costume of women, 325

Oysters at Kurrachee, 345

P⸺, Mr., 70, 225

Packing opium, 181

Pah Chenar, 397

Painters, 200

Painting, 333

the eyebrows, 327

the face, 41

the lily, 173

Paintings in cathedral, 160

Palaces, summer, 372

Palgrave, Mr. Gifford, 212

Pane, 302

Paraphrase, a, 285

Partridges sold alive, 221

tame, 308

Pass of the Old Woman, 350

of the Virgin, 350

Passanghūm, 387

Patient, a grandee, 243

Peacocks, 376

Pehliwans, 98

Pera, 8

Perhan, 322

Peri-bazaar, 210, 401

Persepolis, Ussher on, 217

Persian cat, 305

character, 314

cleanliness of the, 316

colonel, 80

consul, 15

costume, 317

court, 49

cuisine, 290

dinner, 91

drunkards, 141

Gulf to Ispahan, 347

justice, 121, 295

letter, 289

lying, 60

medicine, 33

opium, 181

patients, 64

prince, dinner with a, 114

home of a, 113

proverb, 123

Relief Committee, 252

roads, 22

sick-room, 244

singers, 114

tea, 16

woodcut (in facsimile), 287

Persia viâ Trebizonde, 212

Petrovsk, 404

Phantom cheese, tale of the, 172

Pharaoh and the magicians, 378

and the Red Sea, 378

Photography, 331

Pickles, 171

Pictures, the bishop’s, 159

Pierson, Capt. W.H., R.E., 32, 56, 269

death of his horse, 61

Pierson’s house, 57

stud, 61

Pigeon-fanciers, 95

flying, 95

ornaments, 96

shooting, 129

towers, 130

Pigeons, breeds of, 94

in kanāats, 129

Pig, wild, 177

Pig’s flesh, 179

“Pig-sticking,” 176

“Pip,” 347

Pipe at departure, 16

Pipes, details about, 29

Piræus, 212

Plane trees, 196

of Mortaza Ali, 364

Plaster work, 39

“Pocrat,” 82

Poetry, 285

at schools, 338

quoting of, 288, 338

to produce sleep, 286

Pole-buying, 80

Police, new, at Teheran, 371

Politeness of Zil-es-Sultan, 366

Pollak, Dr., 182

Pomegranates, 310

Poosseen Afghan, 319

Poppies, 173

Porcupines in kanāats, 129

Pork as an aphrodisiac, 399

wild, 179

Port Said, 342

Post, a man nailed to a, 112

Post-house, a night in a, 25

Post-houses, interior, 25

Posting, rate of, 328

rules for, 24, 259

Post-stages, length of, 23

Potatoes, a novelty, 170

Potters, 191

Preparation of opium, 180

Presentations at court, 151

Present of an arm-chair, 123

a fig, 179

sweetmeats, 111

Price of Persian opium, 181

provisions, 187

Prideaux, Colonel, 346

Priests, Armenian, 197, 199, 363

Primitive forms of church, 140

Prince’s flirtations, 280

hakim-bashi, 145

physician, 145

Prison, dispensary over the, 182

Prisoners, 199

Procrastination, 315

Property, 120

Proverb, a Persian, 123

Provincial grandee, 89

Provisions, price of, 187

Pseudo-masonry, 124

Public at a tazzia, 280

Pulad, 332

Pul-i-Dellak, 388

Pul-i-Kojū, 195

Pulpit, 197, 279

Punishment of “the sticks,” 146

Put up in a mosque, 131

Quail-shooting, 90

Quarantine, 4

Quarters at Julfa, 206

Quinces, 170, 310

Quinine, 70

a general taking of, 398

Quotation of poetry, 288

Racecourse at Ispahan, 364

Races at Teheran, 214

Rahim Khan, 73

Railway, Moscow to Petersburg, 211

Rain, 175

Ramazan, fast of the, 284

Rammals, 120

Rams, fighting, 308

Raphael, a suspicious, 161

Rawlinson, Sir H., 109

Reading poetry, 145

Real ancient relic, 80

Red tape, 317

Réflet Métallique, 191

Relations of master and servant, 326

Religion of people, 339

teachers of, 338

Religious affectation, 285

toleration, 339

Removal of ancient building, 364

Repudiation, a, 273

Resht, 210

embroideries, 333

Resht-i-Behesht, 226

Respect to parents, 314

Rev. R. B⸺, 340

Riding-trousers, Persian, 322

Ring, a curious, 376

Ripsimeh, St., 160

Rise of the Zenda Rūd, 194

River Kara Sū, 108

Road-cooking, 107

Road to Shiraz, 217

Roads in Turkey, 213

want of, 248

Robber-chief, 264

Robbers, 263

alarm of, 130

fate of, 269

fight amongst, 265

Rock sculptures, 119

Rodolphe, 162

Roman Catholic Armenians, 166

Rookhnabad, 218

Rookhni, spring of, 241

Room-fellow, a would-be, 246

Roseh-Khana, 283

Rose-water, 309

Ross, Colonel, 346

Rotten Row of Shiraz, 219

Row at the bath, 71

Royal bounty, 51

edict, 63

farrashes, 51

firman, 257

ornaments, 50

Rūbandah, 334

Rūdbar, 399

Rudeness of Zil-es-Sultan, 367

Ruhdesht, 176

Ruined bazaar, 200

mosque, 177

Running footmen, 370

Russian bread, 18

cigarettes, 340

goods, 373 (Appendix D.)

Russian passengers, 10

post-house, 13

steamer, 9

subjects in Persia, 159

wines, 10

Rūstumabad, 209

S⸺, Captain, 179

S⸺, Colonel, 208

S⸺, Mr., 340, 385

Saadi, a moral tale of, 277

at schools, 338

tomb of, 278

Sacred trees, 364

Sacrifice of an ox, 258

Saddle-bags, 22

Saddle for riding post, 4

St. George’s church, 143

St. J⸺, Captain, 225

St. John, Major, 350

St. Michael, picture of, 158

Saint, shrine of a, 362

Salaam, the, 51

Salt lake, 247

marsh, 393

Samovar, 311

Sana, 108

Sanctuary, 137

Sang, 334

Sangak bread, 334

Sarhang, the, 80

Sau-sau-Rac, 274

Scandals at nunnery, 140

Scars on horses, 61

Scenery in North Persia, 397

School discipline, 337

Schools, 163

Schwab, Mr., 401

Scorpions, 249

stings of, 249

suicide of, 249

varieties of, 249

Sealing, 184

Seals, 184

Securing doors, mode of, 142

Segah, the, 326

Seidūn, 260

Sergeant Collins, 293

Hockey, 127

Sergipatoffski, Mr., 214

Serrum-u-Dowlet, 112

Servants, 67

honesty of, 313

posting, 260

wages, 67

Severe governors, 206

Shah Abbas the Great, 161, 390

bribing the, 271

Paleng, 45

the, 50, 370

Shah’s tower, 402

Shahtirs, 370

Shaking Minarets, the, 361

Sharp ride, a, 208

Shashgird, 389

Shawls, 274

Sheep, 175

tics, 396

Sheif, 347

Sheikh, the, 380

Shemar, 283

Shiel, Lady, 154

Shiraz, 218

climate, 224

famine at, 253

game at, 221

gardens of, 223

ladies, 219

lambs, 220

pipe-clay, 334

priest, 140

unhealthiness, 224

water, 241

wine, 229

women, intrigues of the, 276

Shirazi, gaiety of the, 219

Shirts, 317

Shitūr Gūlū, 226

Shoemakers, 190

Shoes, 321

Shooting antelope, 88

from the saddle, 84

Shopkeepers, 189

Shrine at Kūm, 387

of a saint, 362

Shulwar, 321

Shūr ab, 387

Shūrgistan, 261

Shushan, the palace, 109

Sick-leave, 207

Sick-room, a Persian, 244

Signs of wealth of Imād-u-Dowlet, 112

Silence of young married women, strange, 132

Silver doors, 196

Singers, Persian, 114

Sinsin, 386

Sir A. Kemball, 208

H. Rawlinson, 109

F. Goldsmid, 56, 157

Oliver St. John, 350

Sitting, mode of, 318

Skilled house-decorators, 164

Slavery in Persia, 326

Sleepers in mosques, 197

Smoking, 31

Snakes, 307

superstition as to, 306

Snipe, 116

double, 107

Snow-chair, 272

in Turkey, 213

Socks, 321

Soh, 384

Souhāli, 326

Soup Gework, 143

Spears, 179

Spurious cavalry officer, 73

Staff, health of the, 296

Stages, list of, 411

Stanley, the traveller, 224

Steamer, Caspian, 211

Steelyards, 221

Stone doors, 142

mortars, huge, 360

Storing wine, 58

Story, Persian, 285

Story-teller, 44

Straw, cut, its uses, 175

Stripped, I am, 263

Students, cells of, 197

Studs of horses, 89

Substitute for bells, 139

Successful Armenians, 143

Suez, 342

Suffid Rūd, 400

Suicide of a scorpion, 249

Suleiman Mirza, 90

Summer palace, 372

Sunset gun, 284

Sunstroke, dangers of, 375

Supposed lioness, 35

Surmeh, 260

Susmani girls, 114

Susmanis, 108

Swamp, shooting in a, 117

Swollen eyes, 213

Syudabad Pass, 101

Syud at Kasvin, 208

Houssein, 71

Syuds, dress of, 320

Hassan and Houssein, 153

the three, their fate, 156

T⸺, Mr., 27

Tabriz maund, 220

Tager, 188

Takhtrowan, 368

Taking quinine, 398

Talár, 57

Talisman, 290

Talking lark, 94

Tame pigs, 302

Tame gazelle, 167

lion, 306

partridges, 308

Tanks, 198

Tannūr or oven, 335

Tarantass, 12

Tarantulas, 248

Tattooing, 323

Tax-man at Dehbeed, 133

Tax of turkeys, 144

Taylor, Consul, 212

Taziana, the, 380

Tazzia, 279

Tazzias, dervishes at, 281

T-cloths, marks on, 194

Teachers of religion and law, 338

Teetotaler, a, 380

Teheran, 28, 372

races, 214

Teleet, 136

Telega, 11

Telegraph office, 198

flight of Baabi women to, 154

Telegraph poles, wooden, 80

Temple at Kangawar, 107

Tenets of Baabis, 339

Tent for Tazzia, 280

pitching, 399

Tents, 107

“The Sticks,” 377

Thief-catching, 85

Thieves, gang of, 269

Thorns in feet, 267

Tiflis, 14, 17

“Tiger’s boy,” 341

Tiled dome, 196

halls, 197

mosque, 197

Tile inscription, 177

work gates, 372

Titles, 38, 289

Tobeh, 388

Toffee, expensive, 80

Token, custom of the, 250

Tomb of Cyrus, 355

Esther and Mordecai, 75

Hafiz, 279

Saadi, 278

Tombs of the Kings, 119

Tombstone bridges, 163

Toolahs, 306

Trade credits, 188

in Teheran, 373

Traders, economy of, 172

Trades, 197

Traffic in drink in Julfa, 141

Transit of Venus, 331

Trap-horses, 352

Travellers’ law, 132

Travelling in Persia, 413

when ill, 208

Treasure finding, 76

of Darius, 78

trove in Julfa, 361

Trebizonde, 212

to Teheran, 213

Trees, sacred, 364

Tsaritzin, 406

Tumbakū, 30

Tūmbūn, 324

Turkeys, 375

in Julfa, 144

Turkish barber, 6

chibouques, 6

coffee-houses, 6

saddle, 7

use of, 24

Turkomanchai, 27

Turkoman horses, 104

Uncleanliness of Armenians, 316

Ungrateful baker, an, 183

Uniform, I appear in, 48

in Russia, 15

Unleavened bread, 335

Unripe fruit, eating of, 168

Ussher on the Meana bug, 217

tomb of Cyrus, 355

Ussher’s description of Persepolis, 217

Usury, 192

Utū-Kesh, 191, 333

Vaccination, 363

Vails, 68

Valliāt, 366

Valley of Yezdikhast, 261

Value of land, 175

Van cats, 305

Variable climate, 339

Varieties of kabob, 297

Vassilliardes, M., 401

Vegetables, 170, 300

Vegetation near Caspian, 400

Veil, the, 325

Venus, transit of, 331

Vienna, stay in, 4

Virgin, Pass of the, 350

Virtuoso, story of a, 37

Visit to Baabis, 201

Imād-u-Dowlet, 112

Visits, Persian, 28

Viticulture, 310

Volga, the, 405

W⸺, Mr., 133

Wages of servants, 67

Walker’s road, 350

Walling up alive, wholesale, 203

Walton, Mr. H. V., 137, 167

Want of roads, 248

Washerman, the, 333

Watch-dogs, 306

Watch-towers, 177

Water-fowl, 301

Water-melons, 169

Water of Shiraz, 241

Water-pipes, 29

Wedding of Kasim, 282

We find treasure, 80

Weighing, 221

corn, 192

Weights, 220

Well of death, the, 275

Wheat, 174

White eunuch, 39

Wholesale and retail, 188

walling up alive, 203

Wild asparagus, 168

ass, the, 308

ducks, 176

flowers, 173

geese, 116

pig, 177

sow, 178

Wine, Cholar, 229

cost of, 234

jars, 230

Kerman, 235

Kishmish, 159

making, 232

mode of packing, 236

purity of, 235

sellers, Armenian, 142

Shiraz, 229

varieties of, 235

Winter room, my, 206

Wisdom of a judge, 184

Women, bastinadoed, 122

costume of, 323

educated, 339

execution of two, 122

hair of, 323

head-dress of, 131

of Shiraz, intrigues of, 276

out-door dress of, 325

Women, sentimentality of, 339

Woodcut, Persian facsimile, 287

Wrestling, 98

X⸺, Mr., 330

Yabū, 107, 348

Yakhjal, 240

Yapunjah, 319

Yari Khan, 78

Yarns, 329

Yezd, 162

marble, 114, 276

nammads, 152

Yezdikhast, 261, 357

Yezeed, 283

Yezeedis, 126

Young pigs, 178

Zalābi, 284

Zambūreks, 52

Zangi, Spring of, 241

Zenda Rūd, 135, 193

Zerejumah, 317

Zergūn, 260, 354

Zil-es-Sultan, 146, 154, 203, 205, 365

accident to, 255

and his dogs, 366

and the bear, 227

boat of, 248

character of, 366

conversation with, 155

dress of, 257

his kalāat, 258

illnesses of, 149

petition to, 155

politeness of, 366

procession of, 256

prospects of, 199

rudeness of, 367

Zinjan, 154, 272

Zoban-i-Gūngishk, 359

Zoological Gardens, 35

THE END.

WARD, LOCK AND CO., LONDON AND NEW YORK.

BY THE SAME AUTHOR.

PERSIA AS IT IS. Being Sketches of Modern Persian Life and Character.

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