JANUARY.

FIRST WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Cinerarias.—The plants intended for large specimens must receive their final shift, and be allowed sufficient space to expand their foliage without interfering with or injuring each other. The side-shoots to be tied out.

Epacrises.—As some of them will be preparing to burst into flower, a little arrangement may be necessary in tying them out to display their spikes of bloom more advantageously.

Fuchsias.—If wanted early, the plants that were first put to rest should be selected, and be fresh potted, cutting back the roots, beginning with a small-sized pot; to be shifted into larger when the roots have extended to the outside of the ball. Place them in a nice moist temperature of 50° by day and 40° by night.

Heaths.—To be looked over, and the dead and decaying leaves removed. The most forward in bud—such as the Vestitas, Vernix, Vasciflora, Aristata, Beaumontia, and many others, to be tied out, and arranged for the season.

Pelargoniums.—When large specimens are wanted,

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Be careful that the night temperature is not raised too high: if kept at 50° in severe weather no ill consequences will result. The atmosphere to be kept rather moist, especially if the weather is bright; and all plants indicating an appearance of starting into bloom to be removed to the warmest part of the house.

Clerodendrons.—To be shaken out of their pots; their roots reduced and repotted into small pots in a light sandy loamy compost. Sow seeds, and also of any hard-wooded stove plants.

Water to be given very cautiously to the Orchids, merely sufficient to prevent the plants from shrivelling; and to do this effectually it is necessary to look over them every day. The air of the house to be kept moist by sprinkling the pathways, floors, tables, &c., daily. If any plant is found not to have ripened off its bulbs it should be placed in the warmest part of the house, and the ripening process encouraged. The Brassias, Cyanoches, Cœlogynes, Miltonias, and other such plants, when they are beginning to grow, to be repotted. The compost to consist of turfy peat mixed with a portion of charcoal or broken potsherds, and the pots to be at least half full of very open drainage.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Cherries.—Very gentle excitement to be given by fire or artificial heat, with kindly humidity, and abundance of air.

Figs.—Although they will bear a higher degree of temperature without injury than either Cherries or Peaches, it is advisable to begin cautiously, as it frequently happens that the more haste with fire the less speed with fruit, and that favourable opportunities of sun and light must be embraced for making sure progress with them.

Peaches.—Where the trees are coming into bloom it

Vines.—When they have all broken, the superfluous buds must be rubbed off, and the young shoots stopped as soon as they are long enough to admit the points of the shoots at one bud above the bunch being broken out. In vineries now commencing to force, adopt the practice of producing, where it can be applied, a kindly humidity by means of dung and leaves, or other such fermenting materials. If they are to be broken principally by fire heat, either by flues or hot-water pipes, copious syringings must be resorted to with tepid water once or twice a-day. Fire heat to be applied principally by day, with air at the same time, and very moderately at night.

SECOND WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The plants will now require particular attention and a nice discrimination in the application of water: it may be comprehended by all persons interested in gardening operations, that when the soil on the surface of the pot looks damp it will not require water until it gets thoroughly dry at this season, and then it is to be given before the plant droops or flags for want of it. But when the plant droops and the soil on the surface appears damp, the cause is then to be discovered by turning the ball out of the pot, when it will be seen whether the whole or only a portion of the soil is wet; as it sometimes happens, when fresh potted with light soil, it shrinks from the sides of the pot when dry, and when

Verbenas.—They require to be kept tolerably dry, as they are more susceptible of injury from damp than from cold; a top shelf near the glass in the greenhouse is a very suitable place for them. If mildew appears, to be dusted with flowers of sulphur.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Although all plants now at rest should be kept comparatively dry, they will require to be looked over daily to see that they do not suffer for want of water. The temperature not to exceed 60° by fire heat, and a fall of 10° may be allowed at night in very cold weather. Many of the stove plants—such as Aphelandras, Justicias, Poinsettias, &c.—may now be cut down altogether, and kept dry for a few weeks, which will cause them to make an early growth, and to come into flower a few weeks sooner next winter.

Gesneras.—Select a few roots of them and a few of the Gloxinias to start into growth to produce a succession of flowers.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Asparagus.—If the soil in the bed is dry, give it a liberal supply of water, so that it may descend to the roots, as unproductiveness is sometimes caused by the soil at the roots being very dry when the top is kept moist by gentle waterings.

Beans (Dwarf Kidney).—Sow every three weeks, if a constant supply is wanted. Keep the early crops well supplied with water, and give them frequent sprinklings overhead, to prevent the attacks of red spider.

Mushrooms.—An abundance of water to be thrown about the floors. If the beds are dry, to be syringed with lukewarm water, applying it like dew at intervals for a few hours. Temperature from 50° to 60°, with air occasionally in favourable weather.

Peaches.—Continue previous directions. The trees in bloom to be artificially impregnated, and the foreright shoots to be rubbed off a few at a time before they become too large. Currents of air to be carefully avoided, especially when the trees are in bloom, as they have been sometimes observed to sustain injury from the two end doors being left open for a short time. Air to be given at the top daily in favourable weather.

Pines.—As the days lengthen and the light increases the plants that are swelling their fruit should be supplied with a gradual increase of heat (from 65° at night to 75° or 80° in the middle of the day in clear weather), water, and atmospheric moisture; while others that are in bloom and starting into fruit require more air or more moderate temperature, care in watering and less atmospheric humidity. Some of the strongest succession plants that are grown in pots to receive their final shift, that they may make their growth for fruiting in May or June. In old-fashioned pits or houses, where the flues run near the tan-bed, the plants should be closely examined, as they are apt to be injured by fire heat in such a situation.

Strawberries.—A few dozens more pots may be placed in a frame where there is a gentle heat and an atmosphere more congenial to their healthy growth than in a house.

Vines.—When they have made shoots two or three inches long, the night temperature to range from 60° to 65°, with an increase of from 5° to 10° during the day.

PITS AND FRAMES.

Keep the plants in these structures as hardy as possible by fully exposing them in mild weather, but do not give any more water than is absolutely necessary. Remove all decayed and decaying leaves, and keep the atmosphere in as healthy a state as possible.

Make small hotbeds for sowing Cucumbers and Melons, Radishes and Early Horn Carrots, Cauliflower and Walcheren Broccoli, Lettuce, and various other things, which will be found useful where the late severe weather, or other cause, may have diminished the autumn sowings.

THIRD WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Ventilation is requisite in mild weather, as stagnant air is always unfavourable, especially to the plants blooming in the conservatory. Water sparingly, and damp the house as moderately as possible, as water settling on the flowers will soon destroy them. When the plants, bulbs, or shrubs in the forcing-pit have developed their blossoms, let them be removed to the conservatory, where they can be preserved much longer in perfection. The plants to be looked over every morning, and every dead or decaying leaf and flower to be removed.

Heaths.—Fire heat should only be given when mats or other such coverings are not sufficient to exclude frost, as nothing so much injures the constitution of the Cape Heaths as a close, damp atmosphere. Air should be allowed to circulate freely amongst them at all opportunities.

Pelargoniums.—The plants intended for specimens should be finally shifted. Air to be admitted at all favourable opportunities, and a slight increase of temperature given. To be kept near the glass, and free from green fly. If they have made no winter growth they will now be the better prepared to progress in a robust, healthy state.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Amaryllis.—Attend to the shifting of them as soon as they show signs of growth. Let them be placed in the stove, and give a little water, increasing it gradually as the leaves unfold.

Orchids.—If other departments of gardening are likely to occupy more time than can be very well spared as spring operations accumulate very fast, it is advisable to proceed with the potting of Orchids from this time forward, beginning with those that are showing signs of growth. Peat cut into from one to two-inch cubes, fresh sphagnum to be soaked in boiling water, to destroy insects, and charcoal lumps, with an abundance of crocks,Oncidium Carthaginense would kill O. bifolium, and Cattleya Forbesii will thrive where C. Skinneri will die, and in like manner with many others.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Capsicum.—Sow seeds of the large sort in pans or pots, to be placed in heat. When the seedlings are an inch or two high pot them singly into small pots, and replace them in heat; to be afterwards shifted when necessary until the end of May, when they may be planted out on a south border.

Cherries.—Plenty of air, atmospheric moisture, and a very moderate temperature, are the requisites for them. If the buds are beginning to swell, 45° will be enough to maintain by fire heat, lowering the temperature down to 40° at night, with a moist atmosphere.

Cucumbers.—The plants in bearing to get a top dressing of fresh, rich soil. Keep a sharp look out for the destruction of insects. When the plants in the seed-bed have made one rough leaf pinch off the leading shoot above it, so as to cause the plants to throw out two shoots from the axil of the leaves. Cuttings put in and struck in the seed-bed will come into bearing quicker than seedling plants.

Peaches.—If the weather is very dull and unfavourable for giving air where the trees are in bloom, it is advisable to shake the trellis towards noon for dispersing the pollen.

Pines.—Proceed with the routine as advised in last Calendar.

Strawberries.—Keep them close to the glass, and remember that they are impatient of heat: let 45° be about the maximum, with a very free circulation of air. If they are plunged in a pit or dung-bed, let the bottom heat be about 70° maximum, with an atmospheric warmth of 55° to 60°. In such a situation they will want scarcely

Tomatoes.—Sow seed of the large. To be treated as advised for Capsicums.

Vines.—To be looked over carefully, and as soon as they are sufficiently forward to distinguish the embryo fruit all useless shoots to be removed—that is, all that do not show fruit, and are not required for wood next season. It may also be necessary to take off some of the shoots that show fruit where they are very thick. If two shoots grow from one joint one of them should be removed.

FOURTH WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The compost intended for the plants in these houses should be prepared and sweetened by several turnings; and a sufficient supply for immediate use should be stored in an open shed.

Calceolarias (Herbaceous).—To be potted into larger pots as they require them; compost equal parts of turfy loam, peat, and leaf mould, with a sprinkling of silver sand. To be kept in a moderately-moist atmospheric temperature of from 45° at night to 55° in the day. To be slightly syringed with tepid water on sunny days, and to be kept free from insects.

Fuchsias.—After the old plants are shaken out of their pots, and their roots reduced and fresh potted in a compost of turfy loam and peat, with a little leaf mould and some sand added, to be introduced to a temperature of 60°. When some of the young shoots are an inch long they may be taken off, and inserted in pans of sand kept damp, where they will soon take root, and will require to be pushed on in heat to make fine large specimens for the conservatory or flower garden.

New Holland Plants.—Water them with care and moderation. Air to be given freely night and day in mild weather. Fire heat to be applied only, and then

Sow seeds of Thunbergias, Phlox Drummondi, Mignonette, Ten-week and other Stocks, in pots, to be placed upon a slight hotbed.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Achimenes.—Place the tubers thickly in pans, to be potted singly as they appear, in equal portions of leaf mould and sandy loam; to be started into growth in a moderate bottom heat.

Gloxinias.—Select a few varieties. To be shaken out, and fresh potted in equal parts of turfy loam and heath soil and a little sand. To be excited in bottom heat.

Gesnera zebrina.—Those which were first in flower should be dried off for early work next season. This is to be done by withholding water gradually, and by keeping their foliage still exposed to the light.

Sow seeds of Egg Plants, Cockscombs, Amaranths, and other such tender annuals in heat, to grow them in good time into fine specimens for the adornment of the conservatory in summer.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Cucumbers.—The plants preparing for ridging out early in February will require attention in airing, and watering with tepid water occasionally when dry, and to be kept close to the glass to produce sturdy growth. The plants on dung-beds require great attention at this season. To be kept within eight or nine inches of the glass; to be stopped regularly; and to maintain a heat of not less than 70° by day; to be able to give air to dry the plants. The fermenting materials to be always prepared ready to receive the linings when the heat declines. For those who are fortunate enough to be provided with pits heated by hot-water pipes, such constant labour and attention will not be necessary.

Melons.—To be treated as advised for Cucumbers.

Peaches.—When the blossoms are beginning to expand, discontinue syringing, but sprinkle the pathways,

Pines.—Great care is necessary when syringing, more especially those that are about throwing up their flower-stems, that no more water may lodge in the hearts of the plants than will evaporate during the day. But if, from any cause, a portion remain until evening, it should be drawn away by means of a syringe having a long and narrow tube at the end of it, or by a piece of sponge tied to the point of a small stick.

Strawberries.—When these are throwing up their blossom-spikes a little liquid manure may be given, but it should be very weak, and perfectly clear. A succession of plants to be introduced where there is a gentle heat. The decayed leaves to be trimmed off, the surface of the soil to be stirred, and the pots to be placed on shelves near the glass.

Vines.—Continue the treatment as advised last week.

Keep up a succession of Kidney Beans, Asparagus, Sea-kale, and Rhubarb.

PITS AND FRAMES.

Cuttings of Anagallis, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Lobelias, Salvias, and Verbenas may now be struck in a gentle bottom heat, and pushed forward to make good sized plants for bedding out when all danger from frost is over.