Chapter XLV · a.

Contents—​Islands—​Possessed by Indians—​The “Thousand Islands”—​Carleton Island—​History of Island—​During the rebellion—​Wolfe Island—​The name—​Howe Island—​Old name—​County of Ontario—​Garden Island—​Horseshoe Island—​Sir Jeffry Amherst—​The size—​Indian name—​“Tontine”—​Johnson’s Island—​The Island won—​Present owner—​First settler—​The three brothers—​Small Islands—​Hare Island—​Nut Island—​Wappoose Island—​Indian rendezvous—​Captain John’s Island—​Bartering—​Hunger Island—​Big Island—​First settlers—​Huff’s Island—​Paul Huff—​Grape Island—​Hog Island—​Smaller Islands—​Mississauga Island—​A tradition—​The Carrying Place—​Its course—​Original survey—​History—​American prisoners—​Col. Wilkins.

THE ISLANDS OF BAY QUINTÉ.

The reader who has kindly followed us thus far in examining the bay, and its several coves, or indentations, is invited to accompany us once more along its course, and note the several islands which stud its bosom. They are not numerous; but the numerous points all along, as well as the turns in the bay recompense any lack arising from the absence of islands.

When the Mississauga Indians ceded the land along the bay to the British Government, they reserved certain points of land, and mostly all the islands between the head of the bay and Gananoque. Those excepted were Grenadier Island, and the small islands between it and Kingston, and Amherst Island.

The islands of the St. Lawrence are famed almost the world over, they are called the “Thousand Islands.” But Howison says, that the commissioners appointed to fix the limits between Canada and the United States, counted the islands of the St. Lawrence and found there were 1692. The islands below Gananoque belonged to the Iroquois.

Carleton Island.—​The first island is Carleton Island, called by the French the island of Chevreux, Goat’s Island; situated between the American shore of the St. Lawrence, and Wolf Island. It was a military and naval station during the American rebellion, at which government vessels were built for navigating the lake, and possessed fortifications. Its name is derived from Guy Carleton, Esq., “his Majesty’s Captain-General and Governor-in-chief, and over his Majesty’s province of Quebec, afterward Lord Dorchester.” This military post, as we have seen, afforded a retreat for the refugees, who fled from the Mohawk valley. Says the Rev. William Mcaulay, “Jay’s treaty of peace, as it was called, in 1783, found Carleton Island occupied by the 84th Regiment, a body of Highlanders 403levied in the Carolinas, and subsequently adopted into the line.” Upon the erection of the northern line of the United States, Carleton Island came within the boundary of the State of New York. But it continued in common with other military posts, in possession of the British, until 1796. Indeed, according to the gentleman whose words we have quoted above, it remained in possession of the British until 1812, when the Americans crossed and seized a sergeant’s guard stationed there. It would seem that parties entering Canada were required to procure a passport here. A copy of one, extracted from the history of Dundas, is as follows, directed “To whom concerned.”

“Permit the boat going from this to pass to Kingston with their provisions, family, clothing, bedding, household furniture, and farming utensils, they having cleared out at this post, as appears by their names in the margin. (John Loucks, two men, two women, three children).”—​Signed “C. McDonell, P. O.”

Among the refugees here during the war was Mr. Mcaulay. In 1776, Sergeant Major Clark, of the 8th, or King’s Own Regiment, was appointed clerk and naval store keeper at Carleton Island, where he remained till 1790. This was father of the late Colonel Clark, of Dalhousie. For further particulars of Carleton Island the reader is referred to the history of Kingston.

Wolfe Island.—​This is a considerable island, 25 miles long, stretching along near the American shore, directly opposite Kingston. It contains 28,129 acres of good land. The name is found often spelled wolf, leading us to infer that it is derived from the presence of that animal upon the island at some time. But it is no doubt after General Wolfe, who fell at Quebec. The original Indian name, as given in the document conferring a seigniory at Cataraqui upon La Salle, including this and Amherst Island, was Ganounkouesnot. The French called it the Grande Island, and Simcoe in his proclamation 1792, directed it to be called Wolfe Island. Mr. Detlor says that “it would seem the greater part of Wolfe Island was granted to the heirs of Sir William Johnson, the clergy and Crown reserves excepted.”

We observe a notice in the Kingston Gazette, that Wolfe Island, with Pittsburgh, was conjoined to Kingston for municipal purposes in 1812.

Howe Island.—​Is situated in the St. Lawrence, somewhat below Kingston, it is a large, long island in front of the township of Pittsburgh, and one part of it is almost conjoined to the mainland. 404It is a township by itself, and contains about 8000 acres. It was called by the French, Isle Cauchois; but was named by Simcoe, or his advisers, Howe Island.

When Upper Canada was erected into a province, it was divided into nineteen counties; the seventh of these consisted of Howe Island, Wolfe Island, Amherst Island, Gage Island, with all the other islands between the mouth of the Gananoque and the point of Marysburgh. They constituted the county of Ontario.

Garden Island.—​Upon the north of Wolfe Island, in Kingston Bay, is Garden Island, containing some sixty-three acres. Near the western extremity of Wolfe Island, is another small island, which received the name of Horseshoe Island, and separated from the large island by a narrow channel, which was named Batteau Channel, is Gage Island, after Brig. General Gage, which was also sometimes called Simcoe Island. The name given to it by the French was Isle aux Foret. It contains some 2164 acres of rich land.

Amherst Island.—​So called after “Sir Jeffrey Amherst, of the honourable and military order of Bath, Colonel of the Third and Sixteenth Regiments of Infantry, Lieutenant-General in the Army, and Commander-in-Chief of all His Majesty’s Troops and Forces in North America.” This beautiful island, stretching along opposite, and about a mile and a half from Ernesttown, being some twelve miles in length, causes an extension of the Bay Quinté to a corresponding distance. It contains about 14,015 acres of very rich land. The channel separating it from Gage and Wolfe Islands, forms the Lower Gap, and that which flows above, between it and Marysburg, is the Upper Gap.

In the time of LaSalle, the Indian name of this island was Kaouenesgo. It formed a part of his Seigniory, and he, some time after his arrival to build Fort Frontenac, 1678, named the island Isle de Tonti, after a brave French officer, with one arm, who accompanied him. This name, modified to “Isle Tanta,” clung to the island until recent years. Sir John Johnson, to whom it was granted, with other land, at the close of the war, 1783, in a letter to the Military Secretary, calls it the “Island of Tontine.” This may have been a fancy name of the owner, as we find no other reference to it. The present name was bestowed in 1792, after Gen. Amherst, who acted so conspicuous a part in the wars. Upon some old maps the Island is designated “Sir John Johnson’s Island.” We find an indefinite statement that the island was claimed by the 405Mohawks, and that they ceded their rights to Col. Crawford, who accompanied Sir John, and who, in turn, transferred it to Johnson. But, as he and Brant were on the most intimate terms, they could, no doubt, arrange any difference between themselves.

We do not see that there can be any objection to record a statement which has been told for many long years by the inhabitants of the Bay, that the Island was subsequently won by an aristocratic gambler, Lady B—​—​, in England, at a game of cards, who afterwards disposed of it to the present owner, Lord Mountcashel.

Some of the farm lots have been, we believe, disposed of, but the island is mostly held by tenants, under lease from the Earl. The oldest settler upon the island was Lieutenant McGinnis, of Johnston’s Regiment. He lived here in some comfort, having several slaves to do the work.

Off the east end of Amherst Island, in the Bay, are three small islands, called the Three Brothers, “famous for black bass fishing, and for deep rolling sea.”

Leaving the waters of the Lower Bay, and directing our course westward, we find the Bay comparatively free of Islands. Here and there, all along its course, may be seen small islands, close to the shore. These received names, as a general thing, after the person who owned the adjacent land. There are, however, a few more islands which need special notice.

Upon an old plan of Fredericksburgh, dated 1784, is to be seen in Hay Bay, three islands; one near the north shore, at its eastern extremity, is called Hare Island. To the south, at the eastern shore, are the other two; the north one is called Nut Island; the more southern one is Wappoose Island. This island, from its name, must have been the place of residence of the principal chief of some Indian tribe, probably the Kente Indians. Here, must have been a place of considerable importance to the Indian—​a rendezvous, whereat they met, and whereat the chief held his simple, but dignified court.

Opposite the Mohawk Church, in the Indian Village, just off Grassy Point, of Sophiasburg, is a low island, containing fourteen acres. This island originally belonged to the Mississaugas, as did most of the islands in the Bay, until a comparatively recent date. John Cuthbertson, a grandson of Capt. John, purchased the island from John Sunday, and other Mississauga chiefs. The price paid was a cow and a yoke of steers. A quit claim deed was received by Mr. Cuthbertson, which is yet to be 406seen. This bargain led to some trouble with the Government, who held that the Mississaugas had no right to sell their land except to Government. However, finally, the receipt held by Cuthbertson was allowed to be a legal document. This Island is known as Capt. John’s Island.

There are three small islands in Mohawk Bay, the largest of which is called Hunger Island. It is situated a short distance from the mouth, near the north shore, and contains about seven acres of land.

Along the north shore of Sophiasburg is Big Island. As its name implies, it is an island of considerable size, containing over 3,000 acres of excellent land. The channel separating this long narrow island from the mainland, especially at its east end is very narrow, and is spanned by a short bridge, and may even be forded. Long grass abundantly grows all though the channel, which, in summer, covers the water, and seems to form the island and mainland into one. Here, is the constant abode of the muskrat, and at certain seasons the resort of the wild fowl.

It is said that Samuel Peck and Samuel Shaw were the first settlers on this island. The older inhabitants along the bay remember when this island was thickly covered with wood of the most heavy description. It was for many years, at the beginning of the present century, the scene of lumbering operations. Winter after winter, large quantities were cut down, and in the spring, rafted and conveyed to Montreal.

The writer has heard it stated, this island was originally, when no longer owned by the Indians, bestowed on one Hall, and that early maps designate it Hall’s Island.

Huff’s island is situated to the west of Big Island, and forms a part of Ameliasburgh, from which it is separated by a marsh, and to which, at one point it is connected by a low neck of land. To the north is Mississauga Point. The island obtains its name from the first settler, Solomon Huff, who settled there in 1825. Solomon Huff was the son of Paul Huff, one of the original settlers of Adolphustown, who came from Long Island, New York, with Van Alstine. The writer has conversed with the wife of Solomon Huff when in her 91st year, who retained a vivid recollection of the time of their settling, from the fact that when crossing the ice to the island they broke through with their furniture. At the time of their settlement their nearest neighbours were on one hand at Demorestville and on the other at Walbridge’s, on the north shore of Mississauga Point.

407Immediately to the east of Huff’s Island, is Grape Island. It received the name it bears from the great quantities of wild grapes that at one time grew spontaneously upon it. This island, now barren and treeless, was at one time, the home of domesticated Indians. Even yet, may be seen, the traces of the wooden cabins, where the Mississaugas lived under the paternal care of the Rev. Mr. Case.

Continuing westward from Big Bay, there are to be seen several small islands close to the shore, the names accorded them are not beautiful, but probably have in their origin something significant. Thus, there is one called Hog Island, and opposite Belleville is another known as Cow Island. An island west of the mouth of the Moira, is yet called Zwick’s Island, after the person who once owned the adjoining land. This island was, at one time, an Indian burying ground.

We next come to the island upon which are extensive sawing mills, commonly called Baker’s Island. It was formerly called Myers’ Island, after Captain Myers, who lived adjacent thereto. He, for several years, paid rent to the Indians for it. Telegraph Island is about four miles above Belleville; and “Nigger” Island nine miles.

The last island we have to notice, belonging to the bay, is Indian Island, situated at the extremity of Bay Quinté, west of the mouth of the Trent River. Upon a map, to be seen in the Crown Land’s Department, this is designated Mississauga Island. It has also been called Fighting Island. There is a tradition respecting this island, to which the existence of human bones found there, seems to give some degree of plausibility. It is even now related, that at an early date, a company of Mohawks, who had crossed from the south side of the lake, were encamped upon this island. A band of Mississaugas, learning the fact, approached the island cautiously at night, took away their boats so they could not escape, and then suddenly, with superior numbers, fell upon the Mohawks, and killed and scalped them all. But the bones found there may have been placed there for burial.

THE CARRYING PLACE.

The distance between the head of bay Quinté, and the waters of Lake Ontario, at the narrow part of the isthmus is about a mile and three-quarters. By this narrow neck of land the peninsula of Prince Edward is saved from being an island. This was called in the first proclamation of Simcoe, “the isthmus of the Presqù isle de 408Quinté.” It is from this source that the harbour on the lake west of the isthmus has received the name Presqù isle.

We have elsewhere spoken of the fact that a Carrying Place had existed here from time immemorial. From the Indian villages, which at times were located, now along the lake shores of the peninsula, and now upon the bay, the Indians started forth, perhaps to ascend the Trent, or the Moira, or to pass down the waters of the bay, or perhaps to coast along the shore of the lake, westward to the mouth of some river. And, when the French had possession of the country they found this a well marked Indian path. The French had not occasion to cross it, as they either ascended the Ottawa, the Trent, or if desirous of going to the head of Lake Ontario, they passed along its south shore. But in the early years of Upper Canada, this portage was frequently crossed by those passing back and forth from the lower parts of Canada to the west. This was the case particularly after the forts of Oswego and Niagara were handed over to the United States in 1796.

The original Indian Carrying Place can yet be traced. Its course is indicated by a road which leads from water to water. The street is consequently somewhat crooked, and is in some places wider than in others. When the land was originally surveyed, this path was made the base line of a row of lots on either side. The surveyor being ill and entrusting the matter to an assistant; the Indian path was faithfully followed. While this irregular dividing line between Ameliasburgh and Murray may appear unseemly, it cannot be regretted that the old path is thus indubitably known. Upon the Murray side of the road the fence is comparatively straight, but upon the opposite side it is very devious. This pretty nearly marks the old Indian path. While used as a Carrying Place for batteaux, which were transported upon low wheels, the road was no doubt, to a certain extent, straightened; yet mainly the old route remained.

The old days, when Weller used to haul the batteaux from water to water, have left no memorial; and even more recent days when the first steamboats invariably came to this place, have left but little to mark their history. Here is the remains of the wharf and frame store house where once was life and enterprise; but now all is in decay, and rural solitude prevails. But there is beauty here, as well as interest. All along the street between the head of the bay and Weller’s Bay of the lake are buildings, consisting of private residences, and churches. The tourist will find abundant 409food for thought at the Carrying Place; whether he contemplates the far remote past ere the Indian was disturbed in his native abode; or the days when the French Recollet Missionaries followed the footsteps of those whom they sought to convert; or the time when the pioneer surveyor and settler first trod the path; or whether he reflects upon the many human beings who have come and gone on their way of life, now going one way now another; or thought of the trader intent on pressing his business into the very outskirts of the settlements; of the soldiers—​regulars, and militia, who pressed onward for the conflict, to drive off the invading foe; or of the thousand prisoners carried captive through the province, which they had boastingly came to conquer. If the writer were there again, he would ponder, in addition to all this, upon the sad, yet natural occurence, that, of all those who had come and gone, the one who imparted much information to him, who came to the Carrying Place long years ago, is now gone the way of all the earth. The history of the place is inseparably associated with the life of the Hon. Col. Wilkins, whose loss was expressed by the presence of many as he was carried to his grave.

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