LESSON VIII. MIXING GRAINING COLORS IN DISTEMPER, RUBBING IN, ETC.

38. When the colors have been properly ground in water or in distemper, as they are usually called, it is but little trouble to thin them out for use with stale beer or vinegar. Many grainers prefer to use dry colors when they have been finely dry ground, and they work as well as the distemper colors. They are much more economical to use, and for that reason will always be preferred if for no other. Some, however, are hard to mix up dry and it is preferable to buy these ground in distemper, as, for instance, Vandyke brown and ivory black.

39. It frequently happens during warm weather that the color dries so fast that the operator cannot possibly finish his work while the color is in a right condition, so he must resort to some means to prevent this hasty drying. The addition of glycerine will retard it for a good while, as glycerine is a good absorbent of water.

40. To prevent this rapid drying of graining colors in distemper many means are used, some too complicated and really no better than the one named in the preceding paragraph; wetting the wood with water into which a little sugar has been dissolved is another means to the same end. Afterward use the regular distemper mixture over it.

RUBBING IN.

41. This is the name that is given to the operation of laying on the oil megilped color previous to the graining. The professional grainer usually has a helper who works ahead of him and “rubs in” the color, while he follows him up with the wiping or combing. When the color is mixed and thinned just right there is no difficulty in its application. The brush should be any good, partly worn, or at least well broke in oval, or flat paint brush. In the flat the 3-inch size will be found the most convenient.

42. It was said in the preceding paragraph that the application of the rubbing-in coat presented no difficulties, but the proviso inserted relative to the color being properly mixed means what it says, for if it is not, trouble will surely follow. If the color is too thin and oily the operator will find it hard work to smooth it evenly. If it has been made more transparent by the proper megilping, the color will brush out evenly, and a full brush of color can be carried to the work. The operator should run over the mouldings of the upper panels, and if he has enough color on his brush, also the lower ones, then he should brush out the panels themselves, helping himself to the surplus color on the mouldings; then the short middle stiles, then the lock rail, upper and lower rails, then the end stiles, finishing up with the door edges last.

43. What a “rubber in” should not do is to try to skin his color on. Many are afraid to carry more than half an inch of color from the pot to the work, seemingly afraid they can’t manage it with a full brush, but that is a very poor way and if pains are taken to distribute the color along the panel mouldings first, its distribution will be much more even than if put on by skinning. It will take only about two dippings to do the side of an ordinary door, and it will be in just the shape that the grainer wants it. On the other hand again, he must not put it on too heavy, as the edges will not wipe clean, and if too oily will even run and show up ragged at the edges.

QUESTIONS ON LESSON VIII.

38. How should graining colors be mixed for distemper work?

39. What may be added to the thinner to prevent the color drying too quick?

40. What else is useful in retarding the drying of the distemper graining color?

41. What is meant by the operation of rubbing in?

42. How is the graining color applied?

43. What is it that the “rubber in” should not attempt to do?