ILLUSTRATIONS

A pilgrim of Koya-san, with full equipment of staff, bell, begging-bowl, pilgrim’s specified pack, and all the rest Frontispiece

FACING PAGE

The American-like main street of Sapporo, capital of Hokkaido, the northernmost island of Japan proper 16

A street-lamp, a mail-box, and an American-copied baby-carriage before a shop of Sapporo 16

The old Ainu chief who threatened to crown me with a plow 17

The younger Ainu chief of another village, in ceremonial garb 17

An Ainu who has come into close contact with Japanese civilization 32

An Ainu girl of the younger, unmustached generation 32

The older Ainu women of the primitive tribe of northern Japan have flaring blue tattooed mustaches—but they are almost invisible to the camera 33

Preparing to propitiate the gods, and the neighbors, in favor of a new building in Hokkaido, where religious custom remains even if architecture changes; this ceremony seems always to take place at sunset 33

An Ainu working in his front garden 36

Ainus mending their fishing utensils 36

A typical Ainu hut—and kodak-shy Ainu children scrambling for coppers 37

In the American-like north island of Japan a Shinto shrine or a Buddhist temple here and there is almost the only touch of Oriental architecture 37

viThe sacred red lacquer bridge at Nikko 44

A quiet corner of the temples of Nikko 45

A Shinto priest (if the word fits) of Nikko 48

The tomb of Iemitsu, founder of the Nikko shrines, and the holy of holies of its great group of temples, photographed only by stealth 48

Not a palace garden, but the entrance to a house of prostitution in Tokio’s Yoshiwara 49

The front of a Yoshiwara house in Tokio, with the usual advertising features of large framed photographs of the inmates, two of whom appear in person behind the railing, one hiding behind a newspaper rather than be photographed. The sign reads “3-yen two-storied natural inn” 49

Approaching the great Buddha of Kamakura, which stood through the earthquake of September 1, 1923 52

Thus the great Buddha gazed down through the ages with what strikes the Western beholder as indifference to the woe or weal of puny mankind 53

Venders of food and religious trinkets line with their shops the shaded walks of the island of Enoshima 60

The leglessness of Japanese houses! A corner of our room in the Japanese hotel at Kozu 61

The façade of a moving-picture theater in Nagoya 61

Farming in Japan rice-fields is a great life—if you don’t weaken 64

A Japanese woman enjoying her pipe and the seascape at Toba 64

Little girls of Yamada-Isé dressed in a riot of color, topped by hats of real flowers, for the twenty-one-yearly rebuilding festivities 65

A peasant woman of Japan up to her knees in work 65

Residents of Yamada-Isé garbed for the cart-drawing festival. Brilliant colors characterize the clothing; the torn-paper “duster” is a frequent Shinto motif 80

viiInside the grounds of the Naigu, most sacred of all the Shinto temple groups of Japan, all pilgrims purify themselves by washing in the sacred river before proceeding to their devotions; photography is strictly forbidden 80

A small section of the long line of rope-pullers returning with a sacred timber from the river to the temple rebuilding 81

At last the sacred timber itself, wrapped in grass mats to prevent any injury, came creaking and grinding around the corner of a narrow, winding street 81

Though cremation is much more common than burial, a Japanese cemetery bears no small resemblance to one of our own 84

Within the grounds of the finest of Koto’s temples 84

Hundreds of semi-sacred deer roam at will about Nara and vicinity, recalling the sacred bulls of India 85

The entrance to the ever-higher temples of Nara 85

The basha is still the most rapid and aristocratic means of conveyance in many parts of Japan 88

Some of my fellow-pilgrims on the climb to Koya-san; it is as usual to hire women carriers as men in this part of Japan 88

No small number of pilgrims to the sacred mountain climb by the exertions of others 89

Pilgrims—in real life lawyers, doctors, dentists, business men of Japan’s second largest city—climb Koya-san with all the customary accoutrement, led at the end by the young Buddhist priest who took me in as guest 92

Women pilgrims arriving at the entrance to the miles of temples, tombs, and the like on Koya-san, a point beyond which, up to half a century ago, no member of the fair sex was allowed to pass 92

viiiTwo pilgrims to Koya-san 93

The shrine in our garden at Beppu 93

Descending, satisfied pilgrims sometimes suggest the knights of ancient days 96

Beggars along the ascent to Koya-san have all sorts of schemes to attract attention, and charity 97

Three Buddhist novices and a temple bookkeeper, my guides, philosophers, and friends during my stay there, bid me farewell to Koya-san 100

Pilgrims descending from a train on their return from Koya-san 100

Dotombori, the theater and “movie” street of Osaka 101

Osaka Castle is perhaps the most impressive in Japan 101

In building a Japanese bridge the first thing needed is a compact framework of bamboo tied with vines 108

Making paper from mulberry-leaves by spreading the sheets on boards out in the blazing sunshine of southern Japan 108

Stripping off the kozu, or mulberry-leaf paper, when dry; among other things it is used in making Japanese parasols 109

Bringing in the sheaves from a Japanese rice-field 109

Japanese threshing usually consists of beating the heads of bundles of grain on a round stone 112

After it has been winnowed by the wind and swept up, the rice or other grain is spread out on grass mats to dry in the sunshine 112

The never-failing picturesqueness of Miyajima 113

After all, this is almost all there is worth while at Miyajima nowadays 113

There are no rickshaws on the island of Miyajima; hence we had to trust even our most precious belongings to a ninguruma, or baggage-cart 120

ixA view of Beppu, famed for its hot springs, at the head of the Inland Sea, on Kyushu, southernmost island of Japan proper 121

A Shinto monument, with the famous watering-place of Beppu in the background 121

A peasant’s house near Beppu, with hot water for bathing and heat for cooking perpetually furnished by nature, there being a live volcano near at hand 128

The terraced hills of Kyushu are even more remarkable than those of the main island 128

A glimpse of Nagasaki through the loggia of a hilltop temple 129

A stream which languishes through Nagasaki furnishes a drying-place for new parasols 132

A glimpse of Kagoshima, southernmost city of Japan proper, with its island volcano of Sakurajima in its splendid harbor 133

A memorial in the park of Kagoshima to the old-fashioned men who perished in the Satsuma rebellion, an attempt to halt the restoration and keep Japan closed to the outside world 140

The workhorse saddles of Kagoshima are gaily decorated in red and gold 140

Government House at Taihoku, capital of Formosa 141

One often wonders if the Japanese have not made the streets of Formosan cities too broad for its tropical climate 141

The business streets of Taihoku and other modernized cities throughout Formosa are lined by shady and more or less cool arcades 144

Japanese field-day in the streets of the Formosan capital 144

Formosan ladies of the well-to-do class 145

It takes a sharp eye to tell the country women of Formosa from their husbands and brothers, since there is almost complete equality of garb and work 145

xThe Japanese build Shinto shrines in every Formosan town of importance, but they have made little progress in making Shintoists or mikado-worshipers of the inhabitants 160

The Chinese type of temples and demon-propitiating are still dearest to the hearts of the Formosans 161

Formosan school-girls waiting for classes to begin in an ancient temple of Confucius which the Japanese have turned into a school 176

After all, girls are girls, whether they go to school in Ward No. 1 or in a former temple of Confucius in Formosa 176

A group of reassembled Formosan classmates in a small interior town, ranging now in social scale from shopkeepers to professors in the capital 177

All the Japanese have left of the old city walls of Formosa is here and there an ancient gate for decorative purposes 177

A well-to-do Formosan family in a typical upper-class railway carriage, identical with those of Japan 180

In third class there are usually several Formosan country women with a striking head-dress suggestive of, yet on close examination quite different from, those of the ladies of Japan 180

To our Western eyes the women of Formosa are seldom striking beauties 181

Baby rides in Formosa much as he does in Japan 181

A Formosan funeral 188

After the low, squat ones of China, the Japanese rickshaws of Formosa seem lofty not merely in price 189

Flowers on their way to an ancestral temple 189

The Japanese furnish excellent school accommodations throughout Formosa, at least to their own children 192

xiJapanese boys on their way to school in southern Formosa 192

The Japanese say that they themselves cannot distinguish the reformed head-hunters of Formosa from their own country people. But for the teacher and two children in the front row these are all of the wild mountain tribes, the tallest man and his little boy in front of him being both in the first grade 193

Former head-hunters more or less domesticated during years of labor in the camphor camps of the Japanese 193

A typical house of the savages of Formosa, built in a coast city as a lodging for those who can be induced to visit it 208

The savages and head-hunters of the Formosan interior build their homes of slate, sometimes filled in with slabs of wood and other stone 208

A semi-domesticated couple from the head-hunting tribes 209

It is typical of wild tribes the world over that the women do all the carrying and most of the other hard work 209

Young braves of a wild Formosan tribe, whom he who cares to keep his head might do well to avoid meeting far from the protecting Japanese overlords 224

A Japanized woman from the mountain-dwelling tribes of Formosa 225

One might not think to look at her that her father probably had a dozen or more trophies in his slate-built skull-cupboard 225

GLIMPSES OF JAPAN AND FORMOSA

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