CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Ultima Thule—a land of mystery—introductory retrospect—Bradford to Leith—afloat—a catastrophe averted—landmarks of Auld Reekie—shores of the Forth—the Bass Rock—John o’ Groat’s House—a gale in the North Atlantic—Orœfajökull—no night—Portland Point—volcanic reefs—the Westmann’s Islands—Heimaey—Heimaeyklett and Ystaklett—purity of the atmosphere—Myrdalsjökull—Elirey and Bjarnarey—arrival of the Camoens, a great event.

CHAPTER II.

Ashore—a colonial contrast—Iceland and New Zealand—appearance of the people—the “hufa”—early colonization by Irish—fish curing—dried cods’ heads—view from Helgafell—the church—congregation—form of religion—how Christianity was established—God’s acre—Thingis Hus—turf-and-rubble cottages—dried-bird-fuel—an Icelandic Esculapius—the caves—sail for Reykjavik—poverty of the Icelander—his difficulties—former tyrannous legislation—the “tick and truck” system—break in cloud of misrule—dawn of happier times.

ixCHAPTER III.

The capital from the sea—our guide—view from the Observatory—founding of the city by Ingolfr—why named Reykjavik—National Anthem—a sailor-mason—cost of labour, living, and rent—marriage—influence of præsturs—awful sufferings and disasters—climate—summer salutation—the Althing—Upper and Lower houses, how constituted—candidate’s qualification—the franchise—revenue of Iceland—our little company.

CHAPTER IV.

A “Sing Song”—a Yankee masher—an “Amurican stoodent sawng”—start for Thingvellir—our arrangements with Gudmundsen—a naval Centaur—barren landscape—absence of cultivation—the tun—halt for dinner—a lava desert—rain channels and frost mounds—a horseman’s difficulties—our ponies—Lake Thingvellavatn—the Almannagja—the Oxara—the parsonage—a serious question for somebody—church endowments—the Præstur—his emoluments—and qualification—more churches than parsons—the Bishop—the Latin School—education.

CHAPTER V.

At Thingvellir—the Lögberg—scenes once witnessed there—Execution Pool—our ponies run away—we start without guide—Ravnegja—lava floods—a plain of desolation—wilderness, mountain, and sky—Laugerdal—Hekla—we miss our way—snuffing—handshaking and kissing—honesty of Icelanders—Efstaydalr—precious grass—the Bruera—a midnight halt—we reach the Geysirs—and sleep in a church—some of our comforts—our menu—and ecclesiastical domicile—waiting for the Strokr to spout—the Great Geysir and the Strokr—their temperature, dimensions, &c.—a contrast—the Grumbler—“there shall be no night there.”

xCHAPTER VI.

A night ride—the ferryman—the Zog—the Kalda—the ponies swim—an extra rider required—Villingavatn—an Icelandic farm house—Eider down—our breakfast—great Icelandic writers—no theatre in Iceland—farm rents—haymaking—sheep-shearing—size of farms—what constitutes a rich man—fine view—a dreary spot—Hengill—sulphur springs—scenery wilder and more weird than ever—through the “Doorway”—an elderly equestrienne—side saddles—women’s heads muffled—we arrive at Reykjavik—our itinerary—we sail for Akureyri—the Liberator of Iceland—the leader of the Young Iceland Party—good grass land a safe investment—no agricultural implements—Snaefellsjökull—rugged coast—French fishing smacks—the Soudan—the Australian contingent—a refractory navvy—“There she blows”—whale fishing—discovery of Greenland and America by Icelanders—Snaeland—origin of name Iceland—national flag.

CHAPTER VII.

Akureyri—Dr. Jon. A. Hjaltalin—temperature of sea and air—Icelandic gloves—curious custom—state of agriculture—imported seed a failure—schools of agriculture—reason for neglect of farming—a fact worth noting—stock raising—quality of grass—wool trade—desirability of direct trade with England—obstacles—necessity for improvement in fibre—peculiarity of Iceland sheep—their number—weight of wool—we go ashore—shark oil factory—a few facts about the shark fishery—the only trees in Iceland—the Falls of the Glera—shipping ponies—“Jack’s” love for animals—value of ponies—homeward bound—a strange scenic effect—within the Arctic Circle—a courteous judge—close time for birds and animals in Iceland—indigenous birds—the Great Auk—Langenes—in a fog—deep sea soundings—we land at Thurso—conclusion.

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