INDEX
Reading edition
A
Automatic Control, 60, 67
Automatic Drop Locks, 30
Automatic Drop V Cams, 31
Automatic Jacquard, Purl Stitch Machine, 100
Automatic Narrowing or Fashioning Machine, 113
Automatic Single Lock Machine, 57
Automatic Widening Machine, 78
B
Bridge, 59
Bridges, 91, 126
C
Cams, 18, 31, 115
Cams, Difference Between Dubied and Lamb System, 49
Cam, Explanation of, 18
Cams, Guard, 49
Cam Plate, 32
Cams, Purl Stitch Machine, 90, 103
Cam, Racking, 38
Cams, Stitch, 74
Cam System, Jacquard, 134
Cams, V, 31
Cams, Widening Machine, 81
Cams, Wing, 135
Carriage, 18
Carriage, Purl Stitch Machine, 90, 96
Cardigan, Half, 29
Cardigan, Full, 29
Cardigan, Half, How Made, 30, 47
Cardigan, Full, How Made, 33, 48
Cards, 106, 129, 136
Card Cylinder, 106, 129, 136
Cards, to Cut, 110, 140
Changing the Stitch, 63, 74, 96, 103
Changing Yarn Carriers, 64, 73, 75, 96
Claes & Flentje Machine, 113
Counter, 59, 89
Counting Cylinder, 67
Counting Cylinder Stops, 69
Cotton-back, 29, 46, 75
Cotton-back Sweater, 44, 48
Collar, Shaped, 40
Comb, Narrowing, 51
Comb, Set up, 52
Chain Drive, 45, 57, 100
Chain, Controlling, 57, 59
Chain, Racking, 59, 64
Chain, Pattern, 59
Control of Yarn, 70
Course, 10
Crank, 57
Crank Drive, 45
Crochet Stitch, 13
Crosswise of the Fabric, 10
Crochet Fabric, 13
144Cut Pressers, 29
Cylinder or Drum, Counting, 67, 100
Cylinder Divisions, 68
Cylinder Stops, 69
Cylinder, to Stop, 70
Cylinder for Jacquard System, 103
Cylinder, Card, 106, 136
D
Decker, 51, 122
Design Work, 33, 35
Designs, Racked, 42
Designs, Purl Stitch Machine, 96, 97, 100
Designs, Basket Weave, 97
Designs, Diagonal Diamond, 99
Designing, Jacquard System, 106, 109
Designs, Jacquard Rib, 129
Designs, Laying Out, 109
Designs Without Cards, 138
Designed Fabric, 140
Diagonal Stitch, 40
Double Lock, 46, 73
Double Lock Machine, 44, 46
Double Jacquard, 132, 140
Drive, Chain, 45
Drive, Crank, 45
Drop Locks, 30
Drop Stitch, 22
Drum, See Cylinder
Dubied Machine, 46, 57, 78, 88
E
Elasticity in Knit Fabrics, 15
Elasticity of Rib Fabrics, 26
F
Fabric, Rib, 10
Fabric, Jersey, 10
Fabric, Flat, 10
Fabric, Crochet, 13
Fabric, Tubular, 24
Fabric, Face, 33
Fabric, Two-Faced, 44, 46
Fabric, Tension, 85
Fabric, Jacquard, 132
Fabric, Designed, See Designs
False Knop, 63, 74
Fancy Stitches, See Designs
Fashioned Goods, 51
Fashioning a Sleeve, 53, 78
Fashioning Machine, Automatic, 78, 113
Fibers, Resiliency of, 15
Fingers, 69, 127
Flat Fabrics, 23
Flat Goods, 10, 26
Frame, 31
French Rack, 63, 74
Full Cardigan, 29
Full Cardigan, How Made, 33, 48
145G
Gib, 18
Guards, 95
H
Hand Knitting, 12
Half Cardigan, 29
Half Cardigan, How Made, 30, 32, 47
Hoe, 127
I
Invention of Knitting Machine, 9, 16, 17
J
Jacks, 20, 86, 105
Jacks, Hump or Head, 93
Jacks, Clutch, 94
Jacquard, 29
Jacquard Purl Stitch Machine, 100
Jacquard System, 106
Jacquard Machine, Flat, 129
Jacquard, Rib Designs, 129
Jacquard, Single, 129, 140
Jacquard, Double, 132, 140
Jacquard Fabric, 132
Jersey Fabric, 10, 23, 74
Jersey Fabric, Range of, 25
Jersey Stitch, Purl Stitch Machine, 96
K
Knitting Machine, Invention of, 9, 16, 17
Knitted Fabric, 13
Knitted Fabric, Construction of, 9
Knitting, Hand, 12
L
Latch Needles, 16
Latch Needles, Invention of, 17
Latch Brush, 22
Latch Guards, 95
Latch Openers, 103
Lamb System, 30, 47
Lengthwise of the Fabric, 10
Length of Fabric, Limits, 10
Levers, Changing, 59
Lineal Feet per Minute, 45
Links and Links Machine, See Purl Stitch Machine
Loop, 10
Loop, Study of, 11
Locks, 30
M
Machine, Knitting, Invention of, 9, 16, 17
Machine Knitting, Difference from Hand, 16
Machine Speed, 21, 45
Machine, Double Lock, 44, 46
Machine, Single Lock, 44, 57
Machine, Automatic Widening, 78
146Machine, Automatic Narrowing, 113
Machine, Purl Stitch, 86
Machine, Jacquard, 100, 129
N
Narrowing Comb, 51, 122
Narrowing, How Done, 53
Narrowing Machine, Automatic, 113
Narrowing, Lines of Movement, 118
Needles, Hand, 12
Needles, Latch, Machine, 16, 56, 83
Needles, Auxiliary, 135
Needle Speed, 21
Needles, Purl Stitch, 87
Needles, Automatic Narrowing Machine, 126
Needles, Automatic Widening Machine, 80, 83
Needle Selection, Jacquard System, 132, 136
Needle Springs, 20, 80, 83
Needle Plates, 18, 31, 80, 86, 88, 105
Needle Plates, Jacquard, 134
P
Pattern Wheels, 29
Pattern Chain, 59
Pawls, Racking, 65
Piping, 43
Plating, 50
Plating Yarn Carrier, 50, 111
Production, 44
Purl Stitch Machine, 86, 88
Purl Stitch Fabric, 87
Purl Stitch Machine, Jacquard, 100
R
Rack Stitch, 29, 35
Rack Stitch, How Made, 36
Rack, French, 63, 74
Rack, Both Sides of Fabric, 41
Racked Collar, 40
Racking Chain, 59, 64
Racking Cam, 38, 65
Racking Mechanism, 65
Racking Pawls, 65
Racking Cam Ratchet, 66
Racking, Purl Stitch Machine, 89
Rib Fabric, 10, 26, 27
Rib Fabric, Elasticity of, 26
Rib Fabric, Varieties of, 29
Rib Stitch, 1 and 1, 2 and 2, etc., 96
Rib, 2 and 2, Purl Stitch Machine, 98, 100
Rules, 97
S
Seams on Fashioned Work, 54
Selective System, 33
Selvedge Edge, 41, 54, 72
Set Up Comb, 52
Shaped Collar, 40
Shog or Shogged, 36
Speed, 21, 45
147Springs, U-shaped Needle, 20, 80
Springs, Yarn Take-up, 72
Sprocket Roller, 59, 65
Sinker Loop, 10
Single Lock Machine, 44, 57
Single Jacquard, 129, 140
Sleeve, Fashioning, 53
Slots, 17, 18
Stops, Counting Cylinder, 69
Stops, Yarn Carrier, 71, 84
Stitch, 10
Stitch Cams, 74, 91, 103
Stitch, Drop, 22
Stitch Pins, 74
Stitch, Rack, 29, 35, 36, 41
Stitch, Changing, 63, 73, 74, 103
Stitches on Purl Stitch Machine, 96
Striping, 64
Studs, Chain, 60, 65
Studs, Heights, 63
Studs, Tension, 72
T
Take-up Roller, 59
Textile Fibers, Resiliency of, 15
Tension Stud, 72
Tension on Fabric, 85
Tension for Yarn Take-up Spring, 72
Tricks, 17, 18, 105
Tripping Finger, 69
Tubular Fabric, 24, 26, 74
Tubular Rib Fabric, 26
Tuck Stitch, 29
Tuck Stitch, How Made, 30
Two-faced Fabric, 44, 46
V
V Cams, 31
W
Wale, 10, 30
Weights, 18, 52, 59, 80
Widening Operation, 55
Widening Machine, 78
Width of Fabric, Needles Counted, 54
Width of Fabric, Limitation, 10
Work Hook, 52, 55
Y
Yarn Carrier, 21, 59, 70
Yarn Carrier, Plating, 50, 111
Yarn Carrier, Changing, 64, 73, 75, 96
Yarn Carrier Stops, 71, 84
Yarn Control, 70
Yarn Take-up Spring, 72
Yoke, 59, 126
Z
Zig-Zag Stitch, 29
Zig-Zag Stitch, How Made, 39
148“DUBIED”
Flat Knitting Machines,
Links and Links Machines,
Hand and Full Automatic Power
Built by Edward Dubied & Co.
Neuchatel, Switzerland
[Illustration]
Acknowledged by Users
Experts and Judges as
“THE BEST”
Dubied Machinery Company
E. O. SPINDLER
139 Franklin St. Corner West Broadway New York City
SOLE AGENTS FOR U. S. A. AND CANADA
149FOR QUALITY USE
Williams’
Latch Needles
and eliminate serious needle troubles
No Gauge Too Coarse
MADE IN U. S. A.
THE CAW BRAND
BY AMERICAN LABOR
No Gauge Too Fine
The materials used are the best obtainable, while
the workmanship is all that can be desired.
We supply more sweater mills than
any other manufacturer—Why?
(It will pay you to investigate)
Standard styles carried in stock
Send for samples and prices
❦
CHAUNCEY A. WILLIAMS
Manchester New Hampshire
Maker of “CAW” Brand
Philadelphia Office: 40 South Seventh Street, Rooms 304 and 305
150Textile Machine Works, Reading, Pa.
The European War has proved conclusively that the United States no longer depends
on Europe for Full Fashioned Hosiery and Full Fashioned Knitting Machines
[Illustration]
These machines are the most productive and durable made, and are successfully operated by nearly all the Full Fashioned Hosiery Manufacturers in the United States
151[Illustration]
AUTOMATIC FLAT KNITTING MACHINE, “GROSSER” TYPE. FrhG.
This is one of the many types of machines
used in the art of knitting. Other special
machines have been designed and developed in
the Grosser Plants.
Should any problem of knitting puzzle you,
consult
The Grosser Knitting Machine Co.
260 West Broadway, New York
WE SPECIALIZE IN
Flat Knitting Machines—For Hand and Power Operation
Full Fashioned Hosiery Machines—For Ladies’ Hose, etc.
Warp Knitting Machines—Raschel, Chain and Milanese Type
Finishing Machines—Such as Loopers, Seamers, etc.
Needles and Supplies—For All Machines Handled
152MERROWING
ESTABLISHED 1838
Makers of
The Merrow High Speed
Overseaming, Overedging,
and Shell Stitch
Machines
[Illustration]
For Seaming, Hemming
and Edging
[Illustration]
All Kinds Knitted and
Woven Fabrics
MERROWISE
For Efficiency
It Means
Maximum Production
Minimum Expense
Unexcelled Quality of Work
The Merrow Machine Co.
7 Laurel Street—Hartford, Conn.—U. S. A.
153Three Departments
RODNEY
HUNT
Specializing for Service
Textile Wet Finishing Machinery
[Illustration]
Fulling Mills
(Patented Type M)
More Fulling in less
Time—without
“Nips” or “Trap Tears.”
Booklet No. 1220
[Illustration]
Washers
Equipment adapted to individual requirements.
Interchangeable parts.
Booklet No. 221
[Illustration]
Pusher Mills
Felts and Knit
Goods in garment.
Circular 121
[Illustration]
Reel Machine
Bleaching, Dyeing,
Tinting or Washing
without tangling or
straining fabrics.
Booklet No. 1119
[Illustration]
“Rodney Hunt” Wood Rolls
Superior Quality Rolls
“Registered” for Maximum Service
Send for Standard Order Sheets
Water Power Equipment
[Illustration]
Vertical and Horizontal Turbines
For Large and Small Streams.
High returns from varying flow
of water.
Water Controlling Apparatus
“Standardized” designs. Penstocks,
Flumes, Gates and Gate Hoists,
Screens, Valves and accessories.
RODNEY HUNT MACHINE CO.
99 Mill Street Orange, Massachusetts
154The
Eastman Cutter
[Illustration]
Will enable you to save from thirty
to forty per cent in your cutting costs.
We can prove this to you by a
free demonstration.
Eastman Machine Co.
Buffalo, N. Y.
Branch Offices:
NEW YORK
816 Broadway
CHICAGO
315 W. Van Buren Street
BOSTON
87 Summer Street
ROCHESTER
604 Elwood Building
PHILADELPHIA
110 N. Sixth Street
BALTIMORE
417 W. Baltimore Street
DETROIT
162 W. Jefferson Avenue
CLEVELAND
1234 Superior Avenue, N. E.
ST. LOUIS
1420 Olive Street
NEW ORLEANS
210 Godehaux Building
SAN FRANCISCO
86 Third Street
155F-A Quality
“The Standard for over a
Quarter of a Century”
BRAIDS
EDGINGS
TUBING
and NARROW
LOOM FABRICS
Friedberger-Aaron Mfg. Co.
MILLS AND GENERAL OFFICES:
18th and Courtland Streets :: Philadelphia
156Textile World
the world’s textile authority
Kinks
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the same problem has been encountered
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TEXTILE WORLD is the technical and
market authority of the industry—knit
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quotations. Published every Saturday.
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BRAGDON, LORD & NAGLE CO.
334 Fourth Avenue New York
By the time this publication is read we
expect to have ready for the market a
New Coning Machine. The product
of this machine has several novel
features which we believe will prove
of particular interest to you
Universal Winding Company
Boston Massachusetts
Transcriber’s Notes: Missing or obscured punctuation was corrected. Unbalanced quotation marks were left as the author intended. Typographical errors were silently corrected. Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant form was found in this book.