Blackness of Darkness—Fall of a Forest-tree—A sublime Incident—Musings—A Moral—A Wolf—A Meal—A Mistake—A broiling Sun—The "Heights of Chester"—A noble View—An Island—A "Bend"—A Steamer—Chester—Site and Anticipations—A romantic Pathway—The Sycamores—The Undergrowth—The Bluffs—Forest Quietude—The wild-grape Vines—Size, Tortuosity, and Tenacity—A Juliet-bower—A Prediction—Kaskaskia Bottom—An elegant Farm and Mansion—The Outhouses—The Harvest-fields and Grounds—The Bluffs—The Village 19

XXXIV

Antiqueness—A Proposition and Corollary—"All is New"—Freshness of Natural Scenery—The immigrant Inhabitants—An Exception—A serious Duty—A laudable Resolution—A gay Bevy—A Hawser-ferry—A Scene on the Kaskaskia—"Old Kaskaskia"—Structure of Dwellings—Aspect of Antiquity—A Contrast—"City of the Pilgrims"—The Scenes of a Century—Lane-like Streets—Old Customs—"The Parallel ceases"—The same Fact with the Spaniards—The Cause—The French Villagers—The Inn-gallery—A civil Landlord—The Table d'Hôte—A Moonlight Ramble—The old Church—The Courthouse—The fresh Laugh—The Piano—The Brunettes 26

XXXV

The Explorers of the West—The French Jesuits—Cause of the Undertaking—The Tale of the Hunters—Marquette and Joliet viii—Their Exploration—The Natives—The Illini—A Village—Manito of the Missouri—The Illinois—Amazed Delight—Joliet's Narrative—Marquette—Name to the River—Joliet's Reward—Lapse of Years—M. Robert, Cavalier de la Salle—His Talent, Ambition, and Enterprise—Visit to Canada—Success at Paris—Tonti and Hennepin—Exploration—The Illinois—An Indian Village—The Hoard of Corn—Peoria Lake—Treatment by the Natives—Loss of the Supply-boat—Fort "Creve Cœur"—Its Site—"Spring Bay"—The Indian War—Danger of La Salle—The Mutiny—The Poison—Exploration of the Mississippi—The Falls—Captivity—Hennepin's Travels—Character of these early Writers—"Fort St. Louis"—Second Expedition of La Salle—The Osage—A Village of Natives—The Oubachi—Fort Prudhomme—Formal Possession—Louisiana—Ceremonies at the Gulf—River "St. Louis"—Villages founded—Fate of La Salle—Retributive Justice—Fate of Marquette—Decease and Burial—Canadian Colonies—Their Design—Mining Expeditions—M. de Seur—Disappointment—Couriers du bois—Petits Paysans—Merry Mortals—Origin of Kaskaskia—Name—Depôt of Fur-trade—De Soto and the Tradition—His Death and Burial—Original Extent of Kaskaskia—The "Common Field"—The Grant—Policy of French and Spanish Governments—"Common Fields" and "Commons"—Regulations—Congress-grants—Harmony with the Savages—The Cause—Exaggeration—Early Peace and Prosperity—Jesuit College—Law's Scheme—The Design—Les Illinois—The Failure—The "South Sea Bubble"—Prosperity of Kaskaskia—Luxuriance of Agriculture—A chimerical Design—Cession and Recession—An unwelcome Change—Removal and the Causes 34

XXXVI

Portraiture of Character—The Difficulty—The French Villager of the Mississippi—His ordinary Deportment—Hospitality—Laws and Courts—Scholastic Proficiency—Affairs of the Nation—"A Burden!"—Their Virtues—The Helpmate—Religious Faith—Festivals—Their Property—The Change—Their Avocations—Their Idiom—A Contrast—The Peculiarities—Costume—Amusements—Slaves—Early Government—An unwelcome Change—"Improvement!"—A hateful ix Term—The Steam-engine—The old Edifices—The Streets—Advantages of the Change—The Contrast—The poorer Class—Evils of the Change—Superior Enterprise 52

XXXVII

Delay on an interesting Subject—Peculiarities of French and Spanish Villages similar—Social Intercourse—Old Legends—Dreamy Seclusion—Commercial Advantages of Kaskaskia—The Trade—The River—The Land-office—Population—Fort Gage—Clarke's Expedition—The Catholic Church—Erection—Its Exterior—The Interior—The Altar-lamp—Structure of the Roof—Surprise of the Villagers—Interdict on the Architect—The Belfry—The Bell—View from the Tower—The Churchyard—The first Record—Old Chronicles—The Nunnery—The Seminary—Departure from Kaskaskia—Farms of the French—A Reminiscence—"Indian Old Point"—Extermination of the Norridgewocks—Details—The Obelisk to Father Rasle—Route to Prairie du Rocher—Aubuchon—Profusion of wild Fruit—Nuts—Grapes—A Wine Story—Mode of Manufacture—The Cliffs of Prairie du Rocher—"Common Field"—Productions—The Bayou—A Scene of Blood—A Century Slumber—Peculiarities—View from the Cliffs—Petrifactions—Simplicity and Ignorance—Characteristics of the French Villager—The Catholic Church—Unhealthy Site—Cause of a Phenomenon 59

XXXVIII

The Western Valley—Early Conception of its Extent inadequate—The French Cordon of Fortification—Origin of the Policy—Stations of Posts erected—Fort Chartres—Groves of wild Fruit—The Dark-browed Villager—His direction to the Ruins—Desertion and Dreariness of the Spot—Solemn Effect of the old Pile in the Forest—Coup d'œil—The Mississippi Slough—Erection of Fort Chartres—The Design—Expense—Material—Rebuilding—Village Cession, Recession, and the Results—Seat of Power—Form and Extent—Preservation of the Masonry—French Engineering—Original Structure of the Fortress—The Pride of its Prime—Its Scenes—The "Golden Age"—The "old Residenters"—The Pomp of War—A Shelter for the Night 73

x XXXIX

Fort Chartres—A romantic Scene—Legendary Lore—Erection of Fort Chartres—Enormous Expenditure—Needless Strength—The Engineer—His Fate—The "Buried Treasure"—The Money-diggers—Their Success—The "Western Hannibal"—Expedition against Vincennes—Capture of the French Villages—Siege of Fort Chartres—A successful Ruse du Guerre—A Scrap of History—The Capture of Fort Vincent—The Stratagem—Fort Du Quesne—Erection and History—Useless Strength—A Morning Scene—Philippe Francis Renault—His Mining Operations—The Village St. Philippe—The Cottonwood Forest—The Mississippi!—A Mistake—A weary Plod—An Atmosphere of Pestilence—Causes of Disease—Salubrious Site for a Cabin—Precautions for the Emigrant—Diseases of the West—Fevers—Sickly Months—"Milk Sickness"—Its Cause and Effects—Fever and Ague—An Escape—A sick Family—The Consumptive—Refreshment—An early Settler 85

The "Squatter"—His Character and Person—A View from the Bluffs—The ancient Indian Village—Reliques—The Squatter's Reflections—His Wanderings—A Discovery—The Grave of a Chief—The Ancient Burial-grounds—Human Remains—A Coffin of Stone—The "Pigmy Race"—An Investigation—Ancient Pottery—The Turtle—The Sink-holes—Waterloo—Its Windmill and Courthouse—Bellefontaine—An evening Ride—"Hail Columbia!"—An immortal Name—A very poor Pun—A miserable Night—A pleasant Dawn—The American Bottom—Its Name—Extent—Boundaries—Bluffs—Lakes, their Cause and Consequence—Disease an Obstacle to Settlement—The Remedy—The Grand Marais—The Soil—Its Fertility—The appropriate Production 97

XLI

The American Bottom—Its alluvial Character—An interesting Query—The Ancient Lake—The Southern Limit—The Parapet of Stone—Alluvial Action on the Cliffs—A similar Expansion—The Eastern Limit and the Western—The "Mamelle xi Prairie"—Elevation of Country North—Cause of the Draining—The Rocks at "Grand Tower"—Abrasion of Waters—Volcanic Action—A Tide-spring—The "Blockhouse"—Geology of the Region—Volcanic Convulsions—Impress of Omnipotence—Reflections suggested—Ignorance and Indifference on the Subject—Remarks of Dr. Buckland and Cuvier—A very ancient Revolution—Huge Remains—Theory of Cuvier—Productions of the American Bottom—The Farms—Prairie-flowers—Mounds—Prairie du Pont—Refreshment—A novel Churn—A disagreeable Village—Cahokia—The Indian Tribe—The Settlement—The Mississippi—The Creek—Harmonious Intercourse—A Contrast—Early Inhabitants of Cahokia—Peculiarities of the Village—The "Common Field"—Grant of Congress—Cahokia at the present Time—Route to St. Louis—Sunset on the Water—View of the City—Moonlight—Arrival at St. Louis—A Farewell! 108