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Embroidery and Tapestry Weaving

CONTENTS

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PAGE

Editor's Preface xi

Author's Preface xvii

PART I

EMBROIDERY

CHAPTER I

Introduction 27

CHAPTER II

TOOLS, APPLIANCES, AND MATERIALS

Needles—Scissors—Thimbles—Frames—Stand and Frame combined—Tambour Frame—Cord-making Appliance—Requisites for Transferring Patterns—Pricker—Knife—Spindle—Piercer—Materials suitable for Embroidering upon—Threads of all Kinds—Stones, Beads, &c. 34

CHAPTER III

PATTERN DESIGNING

The Difficulties of Pattern Making—A Stock-in-Trade—Some Principles upon which Patterns are Built Up—Spacing-Out—Nature and Convention—Shading—Figure Work—Limitations—Colour 51

CHAPTER IV

STITCHES

Introduction—Chain Stitch—Zigzag Chain—Chequered Chain—Twisted Chain—Open Chain—Braid Stitch—Cable Chain—Knotted Chain—Split Stitch 75

CHAPTER V

STITCHES—(continued)

Satin Stitch—Long and Short Stitch—Stem Stitch—Overcast Stitch—Back Stitch—Buttonhole Stitch—Tailor's Buttonhole—Fancy Buttonhole Edgings—Flower in Open Buttonhole Stitch—Leaf in Close Buttonhole Stitches—Petal in Solid Buttonholing 95

CHAPTER VI

STITCHES—(continued)

Knots and Knot Stitches—Herring-bone Stitch—Feather Stitch—Basket Stitch—Fishbone Stitch—Cretan Stitch—Roumanian Stitch—Various Insertion Stitches—Picots 118

CHAPTER VII

CANVAS WORK AND STITCHES

Introduction—Samplers—Petit Point Pictures—Cross Stitch—Tent Stitch—Gobelin Stitch—Irish Stitch—Plait Stitch—Two-sided Italian Stitch—Holbein Stitch—Rococo Stitch 147

CHAPTER VIII

METHODS OF WORK

Couching—Braid Work—Laid Work—Applied Work—Inlaid Work—Patch Work 164

CHAPTER IX

METHODS OF WORK—(continued)

Quilting—Raised Work—Darning—Open Fillings—Darned Netting 189

CHAPTER X

Methods of work—(continued)

Drawn Thread Work—Hem Stitching—Simple Border Patterns—Darned Thread Patterns—Corners—Cut or Open Work—Various Methods of Refilling the Open Spaces 213

CHAPTER XI

EMBROIDERY WITH GOLD AND SILVER THREADS

Introduction—Materials—Precautions for the Prevention of Tarnish—Ancient Method of Couching—Its various Good Points—Description of Working Diagram—Working a Raised Bar—Examples of Patterns Employed in Old Work—Illustrations upon Draped Figures—Usual Method of Couching—Couching Patterns—Outline Work—Raised Work—The Use of Purls, Bullions, &c. 229

CHAPTER XII

LETTERING, HERALDRY, AND EMBLEMS

The Uses of Lettering—Marking—Monograms—Heraldry—Emblems 259

CHAPTER XIII

THE GARNITURE OF WORK

Finishing off—Making up—Edges—Use of Cord-making Appliance—Cord Twisted by Hand—Knotted Cord—Fringes—Tassels—Knots 271

CHAPTER XIV

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS

Transferring Patterns—Paste for Embroidery Purposes—Protection and Preservation of Work—Washing Embroidery—Prevention and Cure of Puckered Work—Points about the Thread—Dressing the Frame 292

PART II

TAPESTRY WEAVING

CHAPTER XV

Introduction 307

CHAPTER XVI

NECESSARY APPLIANCES AND MATERIALS

The Loom—Mirror—Bobbins and Needles—The Comb—Embroidery Frame treated as a Loom—Warp—Wools—Silk—Gold and Silver Thread 315

CHAPTER XVII

PREPARATIONS FOR WORK

Warping the Loom—Dressing the Coat-Stave—Tracing the Pattern upon the Threads 328

CHAPTER XVIII

THE TECHNIQUE OF WEAVING

Weaving—Commencing and Fastening Off—The Interlocking Stitch—Fine Drawing—Shading—Added After-stitches 339

Notes on the Collotype Plates 355

The Collotype Plates 369

Index 402

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