INDEX
Reading edition
ANTISEPTICS, 32
Automatic looms, 198
BACKED cloths, with weft, 255;
with warp, 257
Barley-corn patterns, 235
Beaming, press, 47
—— tension, 47
Beating up the weft, 72, 85
——, character of motion in, 72, 73
——, distance moved by slay whilst the crank moves through given
angle in, 74
——, eccentricity of slay’s movement in, 72;
cause of, 74
——, effect of altering position of crank-shaft in, 83;
of reversing direction of crank in, 84
——, force of slay in, 78, 82
——, position of crank in, 72
Becks, size mixing, 30
Brake, 95
CALCULATION for two or more fold yarns, 308
—— of contraction for different weaves and counts, 326
—— of cost of a piece, 325
—— of counts of yarn from weighing given length, 329
Calculation of diameter of yarn, 336
Calculation of number of threads of given counts required to make a
firm cloth in any weave, 341
—— of quantity of warp and weft in a piece, 311–313
—— of reeds and setts, 310
—— of weaving wage, 324
—— of weight of a given length of any counts, 330
—— to make a cloth of equal firmness to given cloth when changing
weave, 338
—— to preserve firmness and alter weight, 343
—— to preserve firmness when changing threads per inch, 341
—— to preserve same firmness when changing counts, 341
Card-cutting machine, 190
—— repeater, 191
Casting out, 285
Checks produced by re-arranging twills, 241
Circular-box motion, 115
Clearer guide, 8
Clipped or sheared cloths, 254
Coiling motions. _See_ Taking-up
Combined twills, 226
Cop winding machine, 6
Cording plan for hand loom, 50
Cords, 245
Corkscrew twills, 257
Counts of cotton yarns, 307
Counts of two or more unequal threads twisted together, 308;
and weight of each required in given weight of resulting
thread, 309
Cover on cloth, 86, 87
Crapes, 248
Crimp cloth, 249
DAMASK or twilling Jacquards, 168–172
Design, transferring from sketch to point paper, 281
Detached figures, spots, arrangement of, 278–281
Development of pattern, 282–285
Diagonals, fancy, produced by combining unequal twills, 240
—— figured, 289
Diameters of cotton yarns, 335
Diapers, 233
Dice checks, 234
Direction of twist in yarns, effect of, 304
Dobbies, timing of movements in, 129
—— undermotions for, 130, 131
Dobby, the Blackburn, 127;
knife motion for, 127;
character of shed in, 129
——, the Keighley double-lift, 123;
method of pegging for, 126;
double jacks in, 126;
character of shed in, 125;
made positive, 129
Double cloths, 259
—— bound by passing back pick over face end, 261
—— bound by passing back end over face pick, 262
—— plain clothes, figuring, 263;
bound together, 266
—— shed Jacquard, 157
—— twill cloth figuring, 300
—— warp face, 257
Double weft face, 255
Double-beat slay, 135
Doup heald, 173
Draft, arranging on point paper, 227
—— the V, 230; patterns produced by, 230–233
Drawing-in, 3
Drills, 224
Drop-box motion, Diggle’s, 107
—— in pick-and-pick loom, 116;
connected to Jacquard, 120
—— Whitesmith’s, 112
—— Wright Shaw’s, 109
Drum winding machine, 13, 14
EDLESTON harness, 166
—— —— designing for, 294
Extra warp, figuring with, 250;
reeding of, 252
—— —— and extra weft combined, 255
—— weft, figuring with, 252
—— figure on mock leno ground, 254
FANCY effects produced by warp and weft pulling each other out of
straight line, 249
Fast reeds, 91
Figured design, 278
—— leno designing, 295
Firmness of cloth, 333
GAUZE, plan of, 173
“Gloy,” 33
Grey warps, preparation of, 2
HAND-LOOM, 48
Hattersley weft-replenishing device, 214
Heck of warping mill, 22
Honeycomb designs, 242
Huck patterns, 250
JACQUARD card cutting, 142, 190
—— damask or twilling, 168–172
—— damask, Tschorner and Wein, 172
—— double-shed, 157
—— for cross-border, 155
—— for leno weaving, 181
—— harness, bordered pattern, Norwich tie, 151;
London tie, 153
—— centre pattern or point tie, 154
—— Edleston’s, 166;
designing for,167, 294
—— for all-over pattern, 139
—— London tie, 150
—— Norwich tie, 144, 150
—— machine, origin of, 137
—— sizes of, 150
—— difference in character of shed between single and
double-lift, 137, 144–148
—— double-lift, single-cylinder, 144;
principle of, 145
—— double-lift, double-cylinder, 146;
advantages of, 144
—— single-lift, 138
—— open-shed, 158
—— pressure harness, 161–166
—— split harness, 160
Jeans, jeanettes, 220
KEIGHLEY dobby, 123
Kenyon’s undermotion for dobbies, 131
LACE and leno stripes, 269
Lags, pegging of, 126
Lappet loom, 193
—— wheel, construction of, 195
Lappets, 192
Leno checks, 268
—— crossovers, 175
Leno effects, 266
—— full cross, 181
—— Jacquards, designing for, 185
—— double-lift, 186
——, imitation of, 186
—— net or lace, 176
—— selvedge, 132
—— weaving in dobbies, 174–180;
use of slackener in, 174;
arrangement of staves and pegging plan, 175–178;
shaking motion for double-lift dobbies, 178;
arrangement of slackeners for two doups, 180
Letting-off, 106
Linen yarns, counts of, 307
List of prices for weaving, New Uniform, 314–322;
Chorley, 322
Loose reeds, 92
MARKING mechanism in slashing frame, 35
Marseilles quilts, 298
Mildew, 32
Mitcheline, 299
Mock lenos, 243
Mono-coloured warps, preparation of, 3
Multi-coloured warps, preparation of, 5
NET lenos, 267
Northrop weft-replenishing device, 210
OSCILLATING tappets, 61
PADDED cloths, 258
Patterns produced by combining alternate picks of twills, 240
—— by combining equal twills, 226;
unequal twills, 240
—— by drafting, 227
Patterns by fancy drafts, 238
—— by re-arrangement of simple twills, 236;
and of combined twills, 237
Pegging plan making, 228
Pick-and-pick loom, 116
Pick, force of, 69
Picking, over pick, 68, 69
—— under pick, 71
Pile fabrics, warp, 189
—— weft, 270–277
Piqués, 258
Pirn winding machine, 15
—— —— —— disc, 17
Plain cloth, 218
—— draft for weaving, 219
—— number of threads possible in, 218
—— ornamentation of, 218
Plushes, 189, 275
Point draft, 230
Point paper, selection of, for different proportions of warp and
weft, 290
—— use of, 219
Power-loom, tappet shedding motions in, 51–68
Preparatory processes, 1
Presser roller, expanding, 27
Pressure harness, designing for, 292
—— harnesses, 161–166
Primary movements in weaving, 48
—— timing of, 85–87
Protector, loose reed, 91
—— stop rod, 92
REEDS and setts, 310
Ribs and cords, 245
Roller top motion for plain cloth, 62;
3 staves, 64;
4 staves, 64;
5 staves, 65;
7 staves, 66
SACK weaving, 259
Satin draft, 229
—— weaves, 222
Satin, principle of construction of, 224
Scotch dressing, 42
Section blocks, expanding, 27
—— tappets, Woodcroft’s, 59, 60
Sectional warping, 23
Selvedge motion in sateen loom, 134, 135
Set figures, arrangement of, 278–281
Shading, 283
Shedding motions, power-loom, 51–68
Silk yarns, thrown or net, numbering of, 307
Sines and cosines, table of, 81
Singleton’s stop-motion, 19
Size mixing, 28
—— —— for light sizing, 30
—— —— for fine counts, 31
—— —— for medium sizing, 31
—— —— for heavy sizing, 32
Sizes of patterns woven in Jacquards, 285
Sizing, 28
—— ball, 43
—— materials, 28
——, slashing frame, 33;
slow motion in, 37
—— frame, slasher, marking motion in, 35, 36
—— —— frictional winding motion in, 39
—— machines, hot air drying in, 38
—— ——, automatic supply of size to, 40
Slubbings, 8
Solid coloured borders in dhooties, 303
Split harness, designing for, 292
Splits, motion for, 132
—— Shorrock and Taylor’s motion for, 133
Spreading the warp, 85
Spun silk yarns, counts of, 307
Stitching-thread used to bind extra warp and extra weft, 252, 253
Stocks and bowls, 67
Stop motion, weft fork, 93
—— ——, in beam-warper, 19
—— rod, 92
Striped designs, 288;
calculation of reed for, 288
TABBY weave, 218
Taking-up motion, negative, 101;
screw and worm wheel, 103
—— positive, 95;
Pickles’, 99;
new system, 104
Tappets, calculation for lift of, 52
——, construction of, 53
——, effect of treadle-bowl on, 57
—— for plain cloth, 50, 51, 53
—— for twills, 56, 58
—— oscillating, 61
—— positive, 59
——, speed of, 87–91
—— Woodcroft’s, 59
Terry cloth, 187
—— loom, 187
Testing yarns, 329
Three-ply, four-ply cloths, 263
Toiletings, 297
Traverse motions, heart cam, 9, 10;
mangle wheel, 11 cloths, 258
Trial section, 25
Twaddell’s hydrometer, 30
Twills, 219
—— combined, 226
Twisting-in, 3
Twofold yarns, cotton, worsted, silk, 308
UNDERMOTIONS, 130, 131
Undermotion, Kenyon’s, 131
V-CREEL, 18, 23
V-reed, 24
Velvet, common, 270
—— cords, 276
—— E1, 273
—— fast pile, 273
——, figured, 301
—— twill back, 274
Velvets, velveteens, 270, 277;
definition of, 272
WARP line, 85
Warping, beam, 18
Warping mill, 21
——, sectional, 23
Weaving wage calculations, 324
Weft, preparation of, 6
——, wet, 6
—— fork, 93
—— pile fabrics, 270
Weft-replenishing devices, automatic, 198–217
—— ——, patents for, 209
—— ——, Northrop, 210
—— ——, Hattersley, 214
Winding coloured yarn, 14
—— drum, 14
—— from cops to warpers’ bobbins, 6
—— from ring spools to warpers’ bobbins, 6
—— from throstle to warpers’ bobbins, 6
Woodcroft’s section tappets, 59, 60
Worsted yarns, 307
Wrapping yarn, 330
YARN balance, Staub’s, 331
—— twist of, 305
Yorkshire dressing, 5, 47
THE END
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED LONDON AND BECCLES