INDEX.

A

PAGE

Accrington trade, 12

Adhesive substances, 34, 37

American cotton, 16

American trade terms, 165

Analysis of patterns, 90

Antiseptics, 34, 36

Area (circular), 159

Arrangement of looms, 71

Arrangement of shed, 19

B

Back beams, 40

Ball sizing, 48

Ball warping, 30

Ball warps, 29

Bare cloth, 81

Beaming or beam warping, 25

Beating up, 55, 61

Becks, 37

Blackburn dobby, 108

Blackburn pick, 59

Blackburn standard list, 154

Blackburn trade, 11

Black oil, 82

Bleaching, 83

Bobbin warpers, 22

Bolton quilts, 131

Bolton reed counts, 147

Bolton trade, 12

Bottoming, 73, 81

Bradford loom, 58

Brake, 69

Brocade, 130

Bullhide, 102

Burnley trade, 12

Bury trade, 13

C

Calculations for—

Cloth, 149

Counts, 143

Engines, 158

Healds, 148

Jacquards, 129

Reeds, 146

Sizing, 149, 152

Speeds, 76, 156

Capital invested, 9

Card cutting, 127

Carding, 17

Cards for drop-box, 140

Cartwright’s loom, 4

Casting out, 129

Centre tie, 126

Checks, 133

Checked shirtings, 134

China clay, 36

Chloride of magnesium, 36

Chloride of zinc, 36

Circle swivels, 141

Circular boxes, 140

Circumference, to find, 158

Classification of fancy cloths, 89

Cloth, cotton, 80

Cloth, cover of, 81

Cloth, faults in, 81

Cloth looking, 80

Cloth, uneven, 81

Coal, 158

Cockly cloth, 81

Coloured spots, 141

Coloured warping, 28

Coloured winding, 24

Combing, 17

Common dobby, 108

Contraction, 149

Cop, 21

Cop bottoms, 21

Cop nose, 21

Cords, 87, 102

Cotton, 14

Cotton cloth, 80

Cotton cultivation, 14

Cotton districts, 16

Cotton fibre, 14

Cotton lands, 14

Cotton manufacture—syllabus, 161

Cotton plant, 14

Cotton, selection of, 16

Counterpanes, 131

Counts on beam, 153

Counts, reed, 146

Counts, single yarn, 143

Counts, two and three-fold, 145

Cracks, 81

Creel, 25

Cretonnes, 87

Cross borders, 82

Crossing thread, 111

D

Damask, 130

Darwen trade, 12

Designing, 93

Designs, 92

Dhootie marker, 48

Dhooties, 84

Dhooties, figured, 110

Diameter threads, 146

Diggle’s chain, 135

Dimity, 130

Dividend of loom, 66

Divisions of the industry, 1

Dobbies, 100, 103

Dobby sides, 110

Domestics, 85

Double cloth, 109

Double lift, 104

Double yarn, 145

Doup, 77

Doup healds, 112

Draft for plain, 55

Drafting, 94

Drag take-up, 103

Drawing, 17

Drawing-in, 49

Dressing machine, 5

Dressing, old system, 5

Drop box, 134

Drying cylinders, 41

Dwell of slay, 62

E

Eccentricity of slay, 62

Engines, horse-power, 158

Examples wage calculations, 154

Expanding comb, 26, 42

Exports, cotton cloth, 10, 84, 85, 86, 87

F

Factory Acts, 7

Falling rods, 26

Fancy cloth, classification of, 89

Farina, 35

Fast reed, 64

Faults in cloth, 81

Feel, 32

Fermenting flour, 34, 39

Figured canvas, 130

Figured cloth, 90

Figured dhooties, 110

Figured gauze, 130

FIGURES:—

Frontispiece: Single-action jacquard loom

1 Perfect cotton fibre

2 Section of same

3 Imperfect fibre

4 Section of same

5 Seed and fibres

6 Section of fibres

7 Winding frame

8 Traverse (winding)

9 Warping, falling rods

10 Stop-motion warping, elev.

11 Stop-motion warping, plan

12 Beam gearing, slasher, section

13 Beam gearing, slasher,elev.

14 Presser slasher, plan

15 Presser slasher, section

16 Slow motion slasher, plan

17 Dhootie marker

18 Heald

19 Metallic heald

20 Reed

21 Plain loom, front view

22 Plain loom (right hand), back view

23 Bradford loom

24 Diagram—eccentricity of slay

25 Shuttle-box and frog, fast reed

26 Take-up motion

27 Weft stop motion

28 Plain tappet

29 Point paper

30 Plain cloth

31 Plan of cloth

32 Design

33 Draft

34 Lifting plan and tie

35 Draft

36 Draft

37 Design, etc.

38 Draft and tie

39 Sateen

40 Plain

41 Sateen and plain

42 Plate, sateen tappet

43 Smalley’s motion on loom

44 Four-leaf twill

45 Four-leaf twill

46 Velveteen

47 Constitution cord

48 Keighley dobby

49 Dobby lattice

50 Dobby pegging

51 Blackburn dobby

52 Dobby pegging

53 Gauze—sketch

54 Gauze—section

55 Leno—sketch

56 Draft—gauze

57 Doup heald

58 Netting

59 Netting

60 Figured gauze—sketch

61 Handkerchief loom

62 Jacquard—section, single-action

63 Needles, jacquard

64 Double-action jacquard—single cylinder

65 Double-action jacquard—double cylinder

66 London tie

67 Straight tie

68 Lay-over tie

69 Centre tie

70 Piano card-cutting machine

71 Diggle’s chain

72 Chain links for ditto

73 Wright Shaw’s drop box

74 Plates for ditto

(Also vide Plates.)

Finishing, 83

Floats, 81

Flour, 34

Flour, testing, 34

Fork and grid motion, 68

Friction—sizing, 43

Fustian, 102

G

Gaiting warps, 72

Gauze, 111

Gingham, 134

Goods made—1800–1860, 8

Goods made—present time, 83

Grist, 143

Ground for jacquard patterns, 109, 129

H

Handkerchiefs, 115, 134

Handkerchief loom, 116

Hands of looms, 71

Hank, 143

Hank, winding from, 25

Haslingden trade, 12

Headings, 82

Headles, 51

Heald counts, 148

Heald motions, 79

Healds, 51

Heck box, 30

Heddles, 51

Heddling, 94

History of trade, 3

Honeycomb, 95, 131

Hooking, 80

Horse-power, 158

Hydrometer, 38

I

ILLUSTRATIONS:—

Beam gearing, slasher, plan, 42

Beam gearing, slasher, section, 43

Blackburn dobby, 107

Bradford loom, 59

Centre tie, 126

Chain links, Diggle’s motion, 137

Constitution cord, 102

Cotton fibre, 15

Cotton fibre, section, 15

Design, 92, 96, 98, 101 and 102

Dhootie marker, 47

Diggle’s chain drop box, 136

Dobbies, 104, 107

Dobby pegging, 106, 108

Dobby lattice, 106

Double-action jacquard, Single cylinder, 123

Ditto, double cylinder, 124

Doup healds, 113

Drafts, 92, 94, 95

Eccentricity of slay, 62

Fast reed loom, 64

Figured gauze, 115

Four-leaf twill, 2

Gauze, 112

Handkerchief loom, 116

Healds, 50

Heald motions, 56

Imperfect cotton fibre, 15

Imperfect cotton fibre, section, 15

Jacquard loom, single action, Frontispiece

Jacquard loom, single action, section, 119

Jacquard loom, double action, 123

Jacquard loom, double action, double cylinder, 124

Keighley dobby, 104

Lay-over tie, 126

Leno, 112

Lifting plan, 92, 97

Looms, 53, 59

London tie, 125

Metallic healds, 50

Needles, 122

Netting, 114, 115

Parts of loom, 56

Pegging for dobby, 106, 108

Perfect cotton fibre, 15

Piano card-cutting machine, 128

Plain cloth, 91

Plain loom, 53

Plain loom in parts, 56

Plain tappets, 75

Plates, Wright Shaw’s loom, 140

Point paper, 90

Plan of cloth, 91

Plan of shed—Plate I., 19

Presser, slasher, plan, 45

Presser, slasher, section, 45

Reed, 50

Sateen, 98

Sectional warping—Plate III., 29

Seed and fibre, 15

Shuttle box and frog, 64

Slasher sizing machine, 40

Slow motion, 46

Smalley’s motion, 99

Stop motion, warping, plan, 27

Stop motion, warping, section, 27

Straight tie, 125

Take-up motion, 26

Tappet plates, 75

Ties, 125, 126

Traverse motion, winding frame, 23

Velveteen, 101

Warping, falling rods, 24

Warping, stop motion, 27

Weft stop motion, 68

Winding frame, 22

Wright Shaw’s drop box, 138

Indian cotton, 16

Ingredients, size, 34

Introduction, 1

Inventions, 3

Ireland, cotton trade of, 14

J

Jacconetts, 86

Jacquard, 119

Capacity, 118

Cards, 120, 127

Cloth, 129

Weaving, 127

K

Keighley dobby, 104

L

Lappet weaving, 142

Lay-over tie, 126

Lease, 30

Leash, 110, 120

Legislation, 6

Length warps, 149, 152

Leno, 88, 112, 114

Liability for mildew, 37

Lifting plan, 96

Limited liability, 7, 9

Linen counts, 144

Long cloths, 85

Long stick, 167

Loom, 52

Loom fixing, 71

Looming, 49

Looms, number of, 11

Loose reed, 4, 63

M

Madapollams, 85

Madras muslin, 130

Manchester trade, 12

Mangle wheel motion, 23

Manufacturing, meaning of term, 1

Manufacturing processes, 19

Market town, 2

Marking motions, 47

Mashes, 81

Measuring motion—warping, 28

Measuring motion—weaving, 117

Merchandise Marks Act, 8

Metallic healds, 51

Metal size, 36

Mexicans, 85

Mildew , 36

Mildew, liability for, 37

Mildew, prevention of, 36

Milling up, 149

Mixings, cotton, 17

Mixings, size, 37

Mixings, light size, 39

Mixings, medium size, 39

Mixings, heavy size, 39

Movements of loom, 55

Mull, 86

N

Netting, 115

Non-positive take-up, 103

Number of machines in shed, 19

O

Oatmeal cloth, 109, 129

Oldham trade, 13

Opening, 17

Overlookers (loom), 72

Overpick, 59

Osbaldeston, John, 4

P

Packing, 83

Parts of a loom, 55, 56

Pattern pricking, 90

Pegging for dobby, 106, 109, 111

Percentages of size, 33, 38, 149, 153

Percentages of waste, 27, 154

Picking, 55, 59

Pile weaving, 101, 131

Pillow-slip weaving, 109

Plain cloth, 84, 90, 91

Plain drafting, 55

Plain loom, 52

Plaiting, 80

Plan of shed, 18

PLATES:—

I. Plan of shed, 19

II. Stop-motion warping, 27

III. Sectional warping, 29

IV. Slasher sizing machine, 40

V. Plain loom in parts, 56

VI. Heald top motions, 56

VII. Dobbied loom, 104

Point paper, 90

Position of warp, 58

Potato starch, 35

Preparatory processes, 19, 21

Pressers, 45

Preston trade, 12

Printers, 86

Processes, spinning, 17

Processes, weaving, 19

Q

Quilts, 131

R

Raising, 83, 103

Rating goods, 149

Reed and pick, 85

Reed counts, 146

Reeds, 51

Reed space, 79

Reed table, 148

Reedy cloth, 81

Repeating jacquard cards, 128

Rice starch, 35

Ring bobbins, 24

Rochdale trade, 13

Roving, 17

S

Sago, 35

Satin, 98, 100

Sateens, 87

Sateen motion, 99

Scotch reed counts, 147

Scotch trade, 13

Scroll pick, 78

Scutching, 17

Sea Island cotton, 16

Sectional warping, 28

Selection, warp, 21, 33

Selection, weft, 60

Selection, yarns, 21, 60

Shed, 19

Shedding, 57

Shedding motion, 79

Shed (warp), 54, 58

Shirtings, 84

Short stick, 168

Shuttle, 60

Shuttle flying, 73

Shuttle race, 60, 63

Side tappets, 58

Silk counts, 144

Site for shed, 20

Size of warp shed, 58

Sizing calculations, 149, 152

Sizing—drying, 41

Sizing headstock, 42

Sizing machinery, 5, 39

Sizing materials, 34

Sizing—object, 32

Sizing—percentages, 33, 38

Sizing rollers, 40

Sizing under pressure, 41

Slasher, 39

Slashing, 39

Slay, 60

Slow motion, 45

Slubbing, 17

Smalley’s motion, 99

Smash, 81

Snarls, 22

Snicks, 22

Soap, 35

Soda, 36

Softener, 34, 35, 37

Sow box, 40

Specification shed, 19

Speed loom, 79

Speed shafts, 156

Speed tappet shaft, 76

Spindles, number of, 11

Spinning department, 16

Spinning—mule, throstle, ring, 18

Split motion, 78

Split rods, 42

Splits, 77

Standard goods, 88

Starches, 34, 37

Statistics, 9

Steeping flour, 34, 39

Stockport counts, 147

Stockport trade, 13

Stop motion, warping, 26

Straight tie, 125

Stripes, 101, 133

Surat cotton, 16

Syllabus—Cotton manufacture, 161

Syllabus—Weaving and pattern designing, 162

T

Tackling, 72

Take-up motions, 65, 103

Tallow, 35

Taping, 39

Tappets, 55, 57, 75, 97

Tappets, construction, 57, 99

Tappets, plain, 55, 57

[T]-cloth, 85

Terry towels, 132

Temple rollers, 4, 69

Testing yarn, 146

Thick sets, 102

Throstle bobbins, 24

Tie, 97

Tie for jacquard, 124

Toilet cloth, 131

Top motions, 79

Timing, 70

Tooth, 28

Traverse, 23

Treading plan, 97

Turkey-reds, 86

Turkish towels, 132

Twaddle, 38

Twill shaft speed, 76, 157

Twist, 21, 33

Twisting, 49

Two and three-fold yarn, 145

U

Under pick, 78

Uneven cloth, 81

Uplands cotton, 16

V

Varieties of goods, 83

Velveteens, 87, 101

W

Wages—looming, 50

Wages—weaving, 74

Wages—winding, 24

Wages—standard list, 154

Ward’s dobby, 105

Warp, 21, 33

Warping (beam), 25

Warping calculations, 28, 29, 30, 152

Warping mill, 30

Warping several counts, 28

Warping stop motion, 26

Warp line, 58

Warp pile, 90, 131

Waste, 27, 74

Waste, weaver’s, 74

Wax, 35

Weavers, 74

Weaving, 52

Weaving and pattern designing syllabus, 162

Weft, 61

Weft pile, 101

Weft stop motion, 4, 67

Weight-giving size, 36

Weight piece, 149

Weight size in piece, 149, 153

Weight warp in piece, 149

Weight weft in piece, 149

Winding, 22

Winding frame, 22

Witch machine, 108

Working design, 97

Workpeople, number of, 11

Worsted counts, 144

Woven pile, 90, 101, 131

Wrap reel, 144

Wrap, warpers’, 28

Wrapping, 144

Wright Shaw’s drop box, 138

Y

Yarn calculations, 143

Yarn measure, 143

Yorkshire loom, 58

Z

Zinc, muriate of, 36

PRINTED BY BALLANTYNE, HANSON AND CO. EDINBURGH AND LONDON