INDEX
Reading edition
Adulteration:
by combination, 280
by weighting, 279.
in finishing, 281.
Albatross, 210.
Alpaca, 213.
Ammonium phosphate for outing flannel, 9.
Aniline dyes, 134.
Apparel:
choosing, 242.
Apron:
attaching the yoke, 37-39.
basting skirt part, 33.
cutting skirt part, 31.
cutting yoke part, 33.
gathering top of, 36.
hemming sides and bottom, 36.
material for, 7.
planning pattern for yoke, 32.
planning to make, 31-33.
sewing seams of, 34-36.
the sewing, 127, 128.
useful, 129.
"Artistic appreciation" in dress, 254-255.
Attaching an apron yoke, 38.
Basting:
corset cover, 106.
gores of petticoat, 104.
hemmed patch, 173.
skirt of apron, 33.
stitch, 20.
Bathing, 91.
Bean bags, making, 29.
Bean bag board, 29.
Bean bag game, 29, 30.
Bias bands, to finish, 99.
Bias strip, cutting and placing, 24-25.
Birdseye, 62, 183.
Blankets, 214.
Blanket stitch:
how to make, 138.
uses of, 44, 138, 141.
Bleaching linen cloth, 195.
Bloomers:
bands for, 217.
making, 215-217.
material to use for, 202.
pattern for, 201.
Bluing, 190.
Bobbin, 67, 68.
Boiling linen, 190.
Brilliantine, 213.
Broadcloth, 211.
Brocaded satin, 124.
Brushing clothes, 157.
Bunting, 213.
Butchers' linen, 183.
Button, sewing on, 45.
Buttonhole:
fan and bar ends, 43.
finishing, 44.
overcasting, 41, 42.
placing, 40.
practice in making, 39.
stitch, 42, 43.
turning corner, 43.
Buying:
garments, 271-278.
materials, 276-278.
points about, 197-199.
Calico, 7.
Cambric, 60.
Canton flannel, 8.
Carding:
by hand, 76-77.
cotton, 72, 74.
wool, 222-224.
Caring for clothes, 155-174.
Carpets, 214.
Cashmere, 210.
Catch stitch, how to make, 150-152.
Chain stitch, 119.
Challis, 210.
Chambray, 7.
Cheesecloth, use of, 9.
Cheviot, 209.
Chiffon, 125.
China silk, 125.
Chintz, use of, 9.
Cleanliness of body, 89-92.
Cloth:
how made, 74-76, 132-137, 191-196, 218-224.
how pattern is made in, 285.
Clothes:
appropriate, 251.
brushing, 157.
care of, 155-163.
choosing and wearing, 249, 250.
removing stains and spots from, 158.
things to learn about caring for, 156.
why important, 3.
Clothespin bag, 149-152.
Clothing:
budget, 230-236.
color for, 256-259.
expense of for a year, 230.
for body at night, 89-92.
helps save body heat, 91.
important things about wearing, 242.
night, aired during day, 90.
points about buying, 229.
ready-made, 271-272.
relation to health, 240-248.
selecting healthful, 244.
several layers of, warmer than one thick layer, 92.
things to think about in choosing, 242.
what to do with, at night, 89.
what to remember, in purchasing wool, 224-229.
why air at night, 89.
why changed at night, 90-92.
why we wear, 241.
Clothing budget, 230-236.
Cluny lace, 93.
Cocoons, grown for silk, 109-114.
Colored silks, 133.
Colors:
choice of, 256-260.
for clothing, 256.
for a hat, 266.
"grayed," 256-257.
intensity of, 257.
learning to combine, 259-260.
to bring out one's characteristics, 256-258.
Commercial pattern, how to use, 46-53.
Consumer's League, 275.
Corsets, 245.
Corset cover:
how to make, 106.
material for, 106.
nainsook for, 105.
Corticelli cocoons, 113.
Costume:
a background, 253.
a work of art, 252.
artistic, 254-255.
studying lines of, 261.
Cotton:
baled and shipped, 16.
carding, 72, 74.
fibers, 7, 14.
how grown, 12.
how spun, 74, 75.
loom for weaving, 66.
picking, 13.
seeds taken from fiber, 1.
spinning, 72-77.
use of, 65.
use of seeds, 15.
varieties of, 17.
weaving, 66-71.
where grown, 11-12.
Cotton cloth, how woven, 66-71.
Cotton crêpe, 60.
Cotton fibers, magnified, 14.
Cotton flannel, varieties of, 8.
Cotton ginning, 15.
Cotton materials, 7-10, 59-62, 101.
Cotton plant, 12.
Cousin Ann:
her clothes budget, 230-236.
how she cares for her clothes, 156-163, 249.
what she learned about dress, 251-256.
what she told about silk, 133-137.
Covert cloth, 211.
Crêpe de Chine, 123.
Cretonne, use of, 9.
Crinoline, use of, 9.
Cross-stitch:
design for, 144.
gifts made from, 146.
how to make, 144, 145.
use of, 143-146.
Damask, 183.
Darning, straight tears, 163-166.
Darning stitch:
for stockings, 167-169.
for straight tears, 163, 166.
how made, 152-153.
where to use, 166.
Decorating, stitches used for, 118-121.
(See also Embroidery stitches.)
Denims, 8, 10.
Dimity, 60.
Dress:
artistic appreciation in, 254-255.
colors for, 258.
personal characteristics in relation to, 256-257.
spacing and arrangement of lines, 255.
use of colors, 255.
Dress Skirt:
laying and cutting pattern, 238.
making, 238-239.
pattern for, 236-238.
Duck, 61.
Dyeing silk, 134-135.
Ellen H. Richards House, 291.
Embroidery stitches:
blanket stitch, 138-141.
catch stitch, 150-152.
chain stitch, 119.
cross-stitch, 143-146.
featherstitch, 119, 120, 129, 130.
outline stitch, 121.
Embroidered patterns, 288.
Etamine, 213.
Eyelets, 270.
Factory, silk, 137.
Featherstitch:
how made, 119, 120.
use for, 129, 130.
Felt, 212.
Fibers:
cotton, 7, 14.
flax, 180.
silk, 111, 132.
wool, 205-207, 226.
Filling thread, 66.
Flannel, 212.
Flat felled seam, 216.
Flax:
breaking, 179.
combing and spinning, 191.
cultivation an ancient industry, 180-181.
fiber, 6, 180.
hackling, 193.
how grown, 176.
rippling and retting, 177-179.
rippling by hand, 178.
rovings, 193.
seeds, 184.
what is the, plant, 175.
wheel, 76, 192.
where grown, 175.
Flocks, 228.
Folding table linen, 190.
Foulard silk, 123.
Free-hand pattern, 46.
French seam:
how to make, 87-88.
use of, 86-88.
Galatea, 62.
Garments:
buying, 271, 278.
criticize your own, 251.
points to consider in buying ready-made, 272-276.
Gauge, for hem, 36.
"German Val," 94-97.
Gifts:
aprons, 129.
bag, 127.
clothespin bag, 149-152.
darning-case, 117.
guest towel, 146.
needle book, 117.
pin-case, 116, 117.
sewing apron, 127.
sewing-case, 118.
spool-case, 117.
useful cases, 130.
Gingham, 7, 10.
Grenadine, 213.
Guest towel, 146.
Hair, care of, 262-264.
Hamburg edging, 101, 103.
Handkerchief, linen, 182.
Handmade garments, 57-58.
Hanging table linen, 190.
Hat
becoming, 266-267.
color, 266.
how to wear, 267.
selecting, 262.
shape and lines of, 264-265.
trimming for, 267.
Health:
clothing in relation to, 240-248.
underwear effects, 245-247.
Heels, 162.
Hem:
gauge for, 36.
making on nightdress, 88.
turning around neck of nightdress, 98.
Hemmed patch, how to make, 171, 174.
Hemming stitch:
for hemmed patch, 171.
how made, 19-22.
why useful, 19.
Hemstitch:
different from hemming stitch, 147.
how to make, 147-148.
Henrietta, 210.
Herringbone stitch, 150.
Herringbone weave, 149.
Holder:
finishing, 27.
planning, cutting, and basting, 24.
Homespun, 210.
Huckaback, 62, 183.
Indian head, 61.
Ironing, 189, 190.
Jacquard Loom, 124.
Javelle water, 187.
Kimono night dress, 64.
Knitting machine, 167.
Lace:
cluny, 93.
German Val, 94, 96.
kinds of, 93, 96.
made by hand, 96.
names and retail prices of, 94-95.
other ways to finish instead of using, 97.
sewing on, 97-99.
torchon, 93, 95.
valenciennes, 94, 97.
Lady's cloth, 211.
"Latest style," 251.
Lawn, 61.
Linen:
bleaching, cloth, 195.
finishing, cloth for shipping, 195.
kinds of, 182-184.
manufacture of, 191-196.
weaving, 194.
where grown, 175.
(See Flax.)
Linen canvas, 183.
Linen laces, 93, 96.
Linen materials:
adulteration in, 280.
how identified, 181-182.
kinds of, 182-183.
Linen sheeting, 182.
Linens:
how to wash and iron, 188-190.
points to be noticed in buying, 196-199.
Linseed oil, 184.
Loom:
for weaving cotton, 66-68.
hand, 67, 70, 71.
"in days gone by," 68.
in factory, 69.
Jacquard, 124.
primitive, 68, 71.
Luna moth, 111.
Materials:
adulterated, 279, 280.
buying, 276-278.
for apron, 31.
for bloomers, 202.
for underwear, 101, 106.
from cotton, 7-10.
from wool, 209-214.
linen, 182-184.
silk, 123-126.
weighted, 279.
Measurements:
how to take, 49-50.
Melton, 211.
Middy blouse, how to make, 268-271.
Mohair, 213.
Moire silk, 125.
Mull, 61.
Muslin, 59.
Nainsook, 59.
Nightdress:
cutting, 78.
french-seam, 86-89.
making hem of, 88.
material for, 63.
placing pattern, 78.
trimming, 98.
Nun's veiling, 212.
Organzine, 133.
Outing flannel, 9.
Outline stitch, 121.
Overcasting buttonhole, 41, 42.
Overhanding stitch, 28-30.
Pageant, 200.
Parts of sewing machine, 80-83.
Patch (See Hemmed patch).
Pattern:
embroidered, 288.
for bloomers, 201.
for petticoat, 102.
how made in cloth, 285.
how woven, 285.
laying for bloomers, 215.
laying nightdress, 79.
opening and reading, 47-48.
opening and studying, 201.
printed, 286.
sending for, 47.
to change, 51.
to lengthen, 51.
Percales, 7, 10.
Petticoat:
learning to make, 103-105.
making, for children, 53-55.
material for, 101, 102.
pattern for, 102.
planning and cutting, 48-52.
Pincase, 116-118.
Placket, 105.
Pongee, 125.
Porch cushion, 140-141.
Pressing suits, and skirts, 157.
Printing cloth, 287.
Protecting clothes, 161.
Raw silk, 115.
Removing stains and spots, 158, 185-189.
Rinsing, 190.
Rubbers, 162.
Ruffle, making for petticoat, 104.
Running and backstitch, 34.
Running stitch, 165, 168, 169.
Russian crash, 139, 182.
Samplers, 143.
Samples for toweling, 6.
Satin, 123.
Scalloped edge, 142.
Seams, sewing with running and backstitch, 35.
Serge, 209.
Sewing, an art, 3.
Sewing apron, 127-129.
Sewing case, 118.
Sewing machine:
how to regulate, 83.
how to run, 84-86.
how to thread, 84-86.
invented, 81.
kinds of, 81.
parts of, 81-83.
things to remember about stitching with, 85.
Sewing on lace insertion or edging, 97.
Shearing sheep, 204-206.
Shears, 205.
Sheep, 204.
Sheep industry, 205.
Shoes:
buying, 243.
care of, 162.
Shuttle, 67-68.
Silhouette, 254, 255, 261.
Silk:
cocoons grown for, 112.
dyeing, 133-135.
fibers, 111, 132.
how produced, 109.
kinds of, 122-126.
moths, 109.
names of, 122-126.
raw, 114-115.
reeling, 114.
throwing, 132-133.
weaving by hand, 136-137.
weighting, 135, 279-280.
where manufactured, 131.
winding, 133.
Silk-scraps, articles made from, 116-122.
Silkworm:
life story of, 109-112.
where grown, 110.
Sizing:
test for, 281.
Skirt pattern, 47.
Skirts:
changing and lengthening pattern for, 50, 51.
pressing, 157.
to cut, 51, 52.
to make, 53-55.
Soap bark, 158.
Soap solution, 158.
Spinning, method of:
in modern factory, 73, 227.
primitive, 71.
Spinning:
cotton, 72-77.
flax, 191-194.
silk (See silk throwing).
wool, 225-228.
Spinning wheel:
for flax, 75.
for wool, 74.
Sprinkling linen, 190.
Stains:
blood, 187.
coffee, 186.
fruit, 186.
grass, 187.
how removed, 185.
ink, 187.
tea, 186.
when to be removed, 185.
Stitches for decorating, 118-120.
(See Embroidery stitches.)
Stitching stitch:
making, 25-26.
other uses of, 27.
use of, 23.
Stockinet, 167.
Stockings:
darning, 167-169.
how made, 167.
kind to buy, 170.
sewing rips in, 170.
Studying lines, 261.
Studying values, 255, 257, 259.
Suits, pressing, 157.
Table runner, 139.
Taffeta, 122.
Tears, learning to darn, 163-166.
Textiles:
for apron, 7, 8.
weighted, 279.
Textile sample books, 8.
Textile surprise book, 10.
Textile surprise box, opening, 58.
Textile test:
burning, 282.
chemical, 284.
for combination, 280.
for fading, 283.
for finishing, 281.
for shrinkage, 284.
for sizing, 281.
for strength, 283.
with microscope, 282.
Threading and running a machine, 84-86.
Ticking, 10, 149.
Torchon lace, 93, 95.
Toweling, material for, 6.
Towels, material for, 6-7.
"Tram", 133.
Tweed, 210.
Underwear:
cotton material for, 101.
relation to health, 245-247.
Uses of lace, 93-97.
Valenciennes lace, 94, 96.
Velvet, 125.
Voile, 212.
Warp thread, 67-68.
Washing and ironing, the process for, 189-190.
Weaving:
by hand, with simple loom, 67.
cotton, 69.
in modern factory, 69.
Japanese girl, 69-70, 136.
linen, 194.
patterns in cloth, 285.
silk, 124, 136-137
wool, 226-228.
Well-dressed, what it means to be, 250-255.
White petticoat, 101-102.
Wool:
blended, 221.
carder, 223.
carding, 222.
carding by hand, 76-77.
fibers, 205, 226.
how made into cloth, 218-228.
material made from, 209-215.
sheared from sheep, 206.
sorted, 218.
spinning, 225-228.
quality of, 207.
variety of fibers, 207.
washing or scouring, 220.
where grown, 203-204.
why it varies, 208.
Wool clothing, facts to remember about purchasing, 224-229.
Woolen garments:
points about buying, 229.
washing, 158.
Wool Voile, 213.
Woolen yarns, 225.
Workbag, 127.
Worsted yarns, 225.
Yarn:
spinning of cotton into, 72-77.
woolen and worsted, 225.
Yoke:
attaching, 38.
cutting, apron, 33.
making for apron, 37.
placing the lining, 39.
planning pattern for apron, 32.
Printed in the United States of America.