NOTE

Four of the chapters in this book have appeared before in the pages of the Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal (A Chuilionn, Wastdale Head, A Reverie, and the Oromaniacal Quest). They all, however, have been partly rewritten, so the author trusts that he may be excused for offering to the public wares which are not entirely fresh.

The Fragment from a Lost MS., and part of the chapter on the Lofoten Islands, were first printed in the Alpine Journal.

The author also takes this opportunity of thanking Mr. Colin B. Phillip, first, for allowing photogravure reproductions to be made of two of his pictures (The Coolin and the Macgillicuddy's Reeks), and secondly, for the great trouble Mr. Phillip took in producing the three sketches of the Himalayan mountains which are to be found in the text.

CONTENTS.

The Himalaya—

CHAP. PAGE

I. General History of Mountaineering in the Himalaya, 1

II. Our Journey out to Nanga Parbat, 25

III. The Rupal Nullah, 38

IV. First Journey to Diamirai Nullah and the Diamirai Pass, 57

V. Second Journey to Diamirai Nullah and Ascent to 21,000 feet, 70

VI. Ascent of the Diamirai Peak, 85

VII. Attempt to ascend Nanga Parbat, 104

VIII. The Indus Valley and Third Journey to Diamirai Nullah 118

The Canadian Rocky Mountains, 135

The Alps, 165

The Lofoten Islands, 185

A Chuilionn, 211

The Mountains of Ireland, 225

Prehistoric Climbing near Wastdale Head, 245

A Reverie, 263

The Oromaniacal Quest, 283

Fragment from a Lost MS., 299

Notes on the Himalayan Mountains, 305

Index, 311

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A Stormy Sunset, Frontispiece

A Himalayan Camp, To face page 2

A Himalayan Nullah " " 38

The Diamirai Pass from the Red Pass, " " 62

The Mazeno Peaks from the Red Pass, " " 74

The Diamirai Peak from the Red Pass, " " 88

View of the Diamirai Peak from the Red Pass, " " 90

On Nanga Parbat, from Upper Camp, " " 104

Nanga Parbat from the Diamirai Glacier, " " 110

Do. Do. Do., " " 112

View of Diama Glacier from Slopes of Diamirai Peak, " " 116

The Diama Pass from the Rakiot Nullah, " " 120

The Chongra Peaks from the Red Pass, " " 122

The Freshfield Glacier, " " 148

A Crevasse on Mont Blanc, " " 166

Lofoten, " " 186

The Coolin, " " 212

The Macgillicuddy's Reeks, " " 226

LIST OF MAPS

Map of Kashmir, To face page 28

Map of Nanga Parbat, " " 40

Canadian Rocky Mountains.

Map of the Ice-fields and the Mountains, " " 144