BOOK II.
Reading edition
Consecration and other interesting particulars of St. Luke’s Church and Burial Ground—Its Monuments, &c.—Rectors, Curates, and Lecturers—Parochial National Schools, &c.—The Workhouse and the Old Burial Ground—The Origin and Condition of the King’s Road in the “Olden Times:”—Its state at the commencement of this Century, together with some notices of the New Buildings, and its thriving Trade at the present Time—Markham Square Congregational Church—Savings’ Bank—Chelsea College—Charles II. and Nell Gwynne—The Royal Military Asylum—Old Ranelagh—The Original Bunhouse—The whole interspersed with many other interesting notices of Distinguished Residents, &c.
St. Luke’s Church and the Burial Ground.
It will be necessary before we give a description of this beautiful edifice to state some particulars respecting the Burial Ground, or, more properly speaking, the Cemetery, in the centre of which the Church is erected. The Act of Parliament for providing this additional Burial Ground for the parish was passed in 1810, and certain Trustees therein named were appointed to carry it into effect. They accordingly purchased of Earl Cadogan, the Lord of the Manor, a piece of ground, in the present central situation, containing rather more than four acres, and enclosed it with a substantial wall and strong iron railing.
As I was present at the consecration of this Burial Ground, and also of the Church, a brief account of which I published at the time, the following particulars I can fully authenticate. With respect to many circumstances which I shall mention, in connexion with the Church, they may be relied upon as being accurately stated from my own personal observation.
In November, 1812, the enclosure of the spacious new Burial Ground having been in every respect completed, with a small Chapel erected close to the entrance on the north side, designed exclusively for reading the Funeral Service, on Saturday, the 21st of the above month, the same were consecrated by the Bishop of London, accompanied by his Chaplains, the Chancellor and Registrar of the Diocese, the Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, rector, the Churchwardens, Trustees, and a large number of the inhabitants.
The preliminary prayers were offered at the Old Church, and the Bishop having declared his assent to the petition presented to him for consecrating the new ground, the procession proceeded from the Church. On their arrival there was an immense assemblage to witness the consecration. The Bishop then perambulated the ground, reading such portions of the Service as is specially appointed, and afterwards completed the consecration in the Chapel.
In the year 1819, an Act of Parliament, 59 Geo. III., cap. 35, May 19, was obtained for building a new Church, and the Rector and Churchwardens, and 59 other inhabitants of the parish, were appointed to carry the same into effect. The central portion of the new Burial Ground was appropriated for this purpose, and on the 12th of October, 1820, the first stone of the new Church was laid by the Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, as proxy for his brother, the Duke of Wellington, who was prevented from performing the ceremony by receiving “the King’s commands to attend him on public business that day at his palace in Pall Mall.” Many of the vast assemblage of spectators having waited a long time for His Grace’s arrival felt somewhat disappointed, and some of them attributed his absence to the political excitement which prevailed just at that period, but this was far from being the general opinion.
A procession was at last formed in the following order:—His Royal Highness the Duke of York’s Band; the Beadles of the Parish; Mr. James Savage, the architect; the Builder, with a silver trowel on a crimson velvet cushion; the Treasurer, with a metal box and sundry coins, and a brass plate, on a velvet cushion. The Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, rector, supported by the Churchwardens; the Curates and Lecturer of the Parish, and the Trustees appointed under the Act of Parliament for building the Church.
The service used on similar occasions having been read by the Rector, the box with the coins, and the brass-plate were deposited by the Rector upon the stone prepared for the purpose, which was then lowered down and secured with the customary formalities. The inscription on the stone was as follows:—“This stone was laid on the 12th day of October, A.D., 1820, by Field Marshal His Grace the Duke of Wellington, the Hon. and Rev. Gerald Valerian Wellesley, Rector; Richard Rattenbury and Richard Mann, Churchwardens.” The day was remarkably fine, and the spectacle altogether produced a very imposing effect, notwithstanding the disappointment experienced by the absence of the Duke of Wellington. A spacious amphitheatre was erected for the accommodation of ladies, and the ceremony concluded with a beam of satisfaction on the countenances of nearly all present.
The Church is built of Bath stone, in the Gothic style of the 14th century, and is approached by a sweep carriage way and flagged footpath. The west front has an arcade, extending the whole breadth of the frontage. From the centre of this arcade rises a lofty tower, the upper part panelled and crowned with an open battlement. It is strengthened at the four corners by octagonal buttresses, which are finished by open-worked pinnacles, of a form which gives the exterior of the edifice a very picturesque appearance, and when seen at a distance is very attractive. The height from the ground to the top of the pinnacle is 142 feet, and the view from the tower on which these pinnacles rise, affords a very fine view of the parish and its surrounding scenery. From the tower, the body of the building is seen to extend, embraced and supported by its flying buttresses, which stretch their airy fronts from between the Clerestery windows to the outer wall of the side aisles, when they are continued solidly down to the ground. The walls of the side aisles and Clerestery are both finished with perforated parapets of elegant forms.
At the eastern end, the principal feature is the altar window, 32 ft. high and 16 ft. wide, divided by mullions into seven bays in width, and four stories in height, exclusive of the pointed arched head, which has a beautiful wheel centre. This end has also two octagonal turrets, the upper stories of which are ornamented with open-worked panels and crocketted domes. There are also two porches communicating with lobbies and staircase, to afford the most ample entrance and exit. In the middle part, and below the great window, the Vestry Room is projected.
On the flanks the buttresses project about six feet, and their extremities are connected by a dwarf wall, which defends an open area, giving light and air to the crypt under the Church. The unbroken line of this wall makes a solid base for the whole building, which gets lighter and lighter as it ascends to the top, where numerous feathery pinnacles impart softness and richness to the extremity that meets the sky.
From the great western arcade you enter by three sets of folding doors to the vestibule, at the sides of which are placed the principal staircases to the galleries. The principal or middle aisle of the Church is entered from the centre of the entrance lobby by lofty folding doors, glazed with plate glass, and as there is no western gallery to project before these doors you have at once the full effect of the interior. In this Church, unlike most others, the western gallery is obtained by a recess over the vestibule, and is principally occupied by a splendid organ by Nicholls, comprising the great organ, choir organ, and swell organ, containing thirty-three stops and 1876 pipes. The organ is considered one of the finest and most powerful in London. The bellows, when charged, contains 70 cubic feet of wind. [128] The King’s Arms, placed in front of the organ, is executed in a solid piece of mahogany, and is a masterly production.
The inside of the Church is 130 feet long, and 61 feet wide, divided into a nave and two side aisles, separated by clustered columns and pointed arches. The small column in front of the cluster continues up to the vaulted ceiling, and there branches out into numerous ribs, which spread their airy lines in the most graceful manner over the ceiling, tied together at their numerous intersections by carved pendant bosses, the principal light being from the clerestery windows gives an aerial effect to the ceiling, which hardly appears to belong to “mid earth,” although actually built of solid stone, whose power of gravitation appears here to be suspended by the magic of art, of which this is said to be the only instance of the kind attempted for the last 300 years. From the pavement to the crown of the vault is 60 ft., clear height, a greater height than is to be found in any edifice in London, excepting St. Paul’s Cathedral and Westminster Abbey. The lofty position of the windows diffuses a clear and calm light throughout. The church was for some years lighted by oil-lamps in the three really magnificent chandeliers, but for a long time gas has been very judiciously substituted.
A circumstance occurred in reference to these massive and splendid central chandeliers, at nearly the conclusion of one of the Sunday Evening Services, which occasioned great excitement amongst the congregation, and it was feared at the time would be attended with loss of life, but fortunately only one elderly person was seriously injured. These chandeliers were obliged to be lowered by means of a windlass, and men from the contractor for lighting the church, by oil-lamps, had to attend and lower them both before and after Divine Service, in the first instance for the purpose of lighting, and secondly to extinguish the lights. It was the practice of these men, who came from London, and were anxious to return home as soon as possible, to lower the weighty chandeliers on a certain signal being given to them at the belfry door, as soon as the organist commenced “playing the congregation out,” but on this occasion it was a sermon in aid of a charity, and the organ was only played previous to the singing of a hymn while the collection was being made. This caused the mistake. Some of the congregation in the galleries, perceiving that one of the chandeliers was unsteady and slowly descending, rushed forward to make their exit, which created great confusion and alarm, the result being the accident previously mentioned. The Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, rector, being present, although not officiating, immediately explained the circumstances, and soon afterwards the alarm was allayed and the service concluded. The lighting of these oil-lamps was attended with great expense and much labour. A considerable saving is now effected by the introduction of gas, labour on the Sunday is lessened, and the dirt occasioned by the trimming of the lamps altogether obviated.
The galleries, south and north, are well constructed. There is breadth of surface and simplicity of outline throughout. From some positions the columns of the nave, which impart such a grandeur to the entire interior, impedes the view of the preacher, even from the northern gallery, but this is unavoidable in Gothic architecture.
At the eastern end, the great window, 32 ft. high, and 16 ft. wide, is a most conspicuous feature. The bottom of the window, being 22 ft. from the pavement, affords ample space for the altar-piece, which is designed in the manner of a Gothic shrine or screen.
The altar, or communion, is ascended by three steps, and is enclosed by a Gothic railing. The chairs and stools are designed in character, and are good specimens of wood carving; they were executed by Mr. Relph, from the designs of the architect.
The altar-piece is “The Entombing of Christ,” by Northcote. It had been previously exhibited at the British Institution, Pall Mall.
For some years after the church was completed the large eastern window was glazed simply with plain glass, as will be seen from the following Vestry Minute, dated April 24, 1823:—“It is the opinion of this Vestry that it would be expedient to have a stained-glass window at the east end, &c., and that the money necessary for the same be attempted to be raised by voluntary subscriptions.” This effort proved unsuccessful, and on the 29th of August, in the same year, Thomas Bryan, Esq., of. Cadogan Place, transmitted the following letter to a subsequent Vestry meeting: “Since I had the honour of being appointed treasurer for the purpose of receiving voluntary contributions for the purchase of a stained-glass window, I beg to announce that I have not received any money but what has been duly returned to the parties.” This great defect has since been remedied, and a very handsome and appropriate stained-glass window, representing the apostles, &c., now adds materially to the beautiful appearance of the interior of the church.
The vestry is a large room, 28 ft. square, and is finished in character with the general style of the building. For some years the meetings of the parishioners were held in it. The proceedings on some occasions were very noisome, and as they frequently took place on Wednesday mornings, or on special days for prayer, there was at times such an interruption as rendered it impossible for the clergyman to proceed. The Act of Parliament since passed, and the erection of the Vestry Hall, in the King’s Road, have happily for ever removed that cause of complaint. In this vestry room, at the church, there is an exceedingly good portrait of Mr. Flood, an oil painting, in a large and handsome frame. It is an admirable likeness.
The following is another description of the interior of this edifice, written by a gentleman who has favoured the public with an accurate detail of most of the modern Churches erected some few years since in the vicinity of London. It will be seen that this account, as regards some of the architectural particulars, supplies several deficiencies in the preceding description, while at the same time there are inserted in the former many interesting details which could not possibly be included in a second notice of the interior of the church.
At the west end is a vestibule, extending across the whole building, and occupying the space beneath the organ gallery and staircase. This is separated from the church by a fine stone screen, consisting of a large pointed arch, flanked by square open buttresses, and ornamented above with a range of upright divisions, finished with a blank cornice; in the centre is a bow, or projection in the corbel style, in the front of which is a dial. The doorway is formed of carved oak, representing tracery work and mullions, the upper part of the panelling being pierced and glazed. Above this screen is the organ, in a carved oak case, the design of which is an assemblage of three towers, with pinnacles at the angles, and united by flying buttresses, the wood work ornamented with upright arched panels.
On each side of the church are seven arches, resting upon six octangular columns, to each of which four small pillars are attached, an additional one being placed upon the capitals of those which are situated towards the body of the church, and carried up towards the vaulting. At each of the extreme ends of the arcade a semi column is attached to the walls, to complete the number necessary for sustaining the arches. The main pillars and arches are ornamented with a simple ogee moulding. The aisles are occupied by galleries that hide the lower divisions of the windows, which are only seen externally, no light being admitted below the galleries through the outer walls. Between the clerestery windows and the arcades below is the metzonine story, fronted by four cinque-foil headed arches, and finished with a cornice of roses in enriched quatre foils, designed as in imitation of the ancient trifolium.
The eastern window does not fill up the entire wall as we find in all ancient buildings, but a considerable portion of plain masonry is left round it. The space below is occupied by a splendid stone altar-screen of a beautiful antique design. It consists of five upright divisions, formed by the buttresses, the central being the width of two of the others; they are covered by ogee arches, with cinque foil sweeps in each, the centre one having a canopy of the same sort, but more highly enriched with a greater number of sweeps. From the canopies rises a series of upright divisions, with trefoil heads; and above is an entablature; the frieze of foliage in alto relievo; the cornice of various mouldings, and the whole is fronted by seven demi angels, in ancient costume, crowned; one hand of each is placed on the breast, the other held up in the attitude of benediction. The screen is flanked on each side by a magnificent composition of niche work, ranging above two small doorways leading to the vestry, the arches of which are obtuse, and the architraves entirely formed of mouldings. Above the point of the arch of each door case is an hexagonal canopy, highly enriched, and supporting the pedestal of a large and similarly formed niche above it, crowned with a like canopy, which rises above the rest of the screen, and occupies a portion of the wall on each side of the window. The pierced stonework, elegant buttresses, and minute pinnacles of this elegant composition, form an assemblage of architectural ornament which would not disgrace any age in which the pointed style prevailed; the scale of grandeur in which they are executed, and the general tastefulness that marks the design, together with the correct style of the elaborate details, would do honour to a cathedral.
The centre division of the church is roofed with stone from east to west. The style of vaulting is, however, full two centuries earlier than the building: the nave of Westminster Abbey seems to have been the prototype. That part of the roof immediately above the altar is groined in a different manner, the surface of the cove being filled with long panels separated by arched ribs, springing from corbels, and crossing the church from side to side; the same is repeated above the organ; the corbels are all sculptured with figures of angels, which at the altar are represented in the act of prayer, and over the organ appear to be chanting the hymn of praise; though these portions are well executed, the conceit of varying the design is too novel to be admired.
From the groined roof depend three elegant brass chandeliers, suspended on gilt chains.
The pulpit of wainscot is octangular, and stands on a frame work of pointed arches; it is not wanting in ornament but it falls short of the ancient oak carvings. The reading desk, also of wainscot, which is situated on the opposite side of the nave, is similar in design. The fronts of the galleries are set off with panelling, having cinque-foil heads; but wanting that boldness of relief which distinguishes the ancient specimens of carved wood work; to the altar chairs, the same remark applies.
The font is situated in the centre aisle, near to the pulpit and reading desk; it is of an octangular form, and sustained on a pillar of the same shape. The different sides are panelled, each containing a shield in an enriched quatrefoil, and the pillar is ornamented with upright panels. It is executed in marble, and the carving appears to be highly deserving of praise.
Within the last few months there has been placed in the church a lectern, which corresponds with the general character of the edifice.
The entire edifice is highly creditable to the parish, and may be considered as a lasting monument to the memory of Mr. James Savage, the architect.
The crypt or vaults under the church are well worthy of inspection. They are conveniently approached, on the north side, by a flight of steps, and are lofty, light, and thoroughly ventilated. Here may be seen the foundation of the tower, which is an inverted dome, and all the columns of the nave are likewise built on and connected by inverted arches. No doubt the construction of these numerous vaults added considerably to the aggregate cost of the edifice, and when interments were prohibited in the metropolitan parishes the anticipated return was at once stopped, still they strengthen the entire fabric, and ensure a freedom from damp, which is most desirable. In several of these vaults are deposited the remains of some of the most respected parishioners.
The fees for burials in the vaults were as follow:—
Single Coffin. Parishioner. Non-Parishioner.
An Adult £13 0 0 £19 10 0
Children, 7 to 14 yrs. 8 0 0 12 0 0
„ under 7 yrs. 5 10 0 8 5 0
None but leaden coffins, enclosed in wood, were allowed to be deposited in the vaults, nor of less thickness than 5 lb. to a foot superficial.
Length from East to West of the body of the Church, including the recess of the altar and organ gallery, in the clear of the walls inside 130 ft.
Length of Side Aisles, in the clear inside 108 ft.
Breadth from North to South 61 ft.
Breadth of the Nave 27 ft. 5½ in.
Height of the Nave, inside 60 ft.
Height of the Side Aisles, inside 31 ft. 9 in.
Whole length outside from East to West, including Tower and Vestry 186 ft. 10½ in.
Height from the ground to the top of the pinnacle 142 ft.
There are ten bells, which were cast at Mr. Mears’s Foundry, Whitechapel:—
The weight of the first 6 cwt. 1 qr. 8 lb.
„ „ second 6 cwt. 1 qr. 18 lb.
„ „ third 6 cwt. 3 qr.
„ „ fourth 7 cwt. 16 lb.
„ „ fifth 7 cwt. 2 qr. 9 lb.
„ „ sixth 8 cwt. 2 qr. 9 lb.
„ „ seventh 10 cwt. 3 qrs. 19 lb.
„ „ eighth 12 cwt. 1 qr. 11 lb.
„ „ ninth 15 cwt. 3 qrs. 14 lb.
„ „ tenth 23 cwt. 9 lb.
The church was consecrated on the 18th of October, 1824, and as the foundation stone was laid on the 12th of October, 1820, the building of the edifice occupied about four years.
MONUMENTAL INSCRIPTIONS IN THE CHURCH.
There are many neat and well-designed marble tablets placed on the walls in different parts of the church, and one monument in particular which will be specially noticed. It would have afforded me great satisfaction to have transcribed all the tributes of affection there recorded, and also those in the Burial Ground, but the limited nature of this work would only admit of noticing a few of them. By adopting this course it will enable me to refer to a variety of interesting subjects, which otherwise in all probability must have been omitted.
The monument, to which allusion has just been made, commemorates a hero who distinguished himself during the Peninsular war:—
To the Memory of Lieutenant-Colonel the Honourable Henry Cadogan, of his Majesty’s 71st Regiment, who fell in the Battle of Vittoria, on June 1st, 1813, in the 33rd year of his age. The Officers of his Regiment have erected this Monument, In token of their esteem and regret.
This beautiful production of the chisel of Chantrey, which is placed in the north gallery, represents two soldiers lamenting the death of their heroic commander, whose portrait is on a medallion surrounded with flags, with the Imperial eagle of France underneath; the letter “N.” is on the top of the pillar which supports the eagle. On the pedestal which supports the sarcophagus is the word “Vittoria,” encircled with a laurelled crown; the sarcophagus is ornamented with a guilloche moulding. Chastity of design and delicacy of execution are the special characteristics of this admirable specimen of art. There is another monument to the memory of this gallant officer, erected at the public expense, in St. Paul’s Cathedral, and also a third in the Cathedral of Glasgow.
During the battle Colonel Cadogan had been detached to an important position; and when it was discovered that he had been mortally wounded, it was proposed to take him off the field. “No,” said he, “my death is now certain, and very near; suffer me to conclude my life with the pleasure of seeing the continuation of our triumph; carry me to an height, from whence I can observe it.” He was carried to one, when his back was placed against a tree, and there he expired, after expressing his gratitude to those around him.
In a vault near this spot lies the remains of the Right Hon. Charles Henry Cadogan, Earl Cadogan, Viscount Chelsea, in the county of Middlesex, Baron Cadogan, of Oakley, in the county of Buckingham. Born 17th Nov. 1749, and died on the 23rd Dec. 1832.
Honoria Louisa Countess Cadogan, died September 12, 1845, aged 58.
Sophia Lucy Cadogan, wife of Lieut.-Col. Hon. Geo. Cadogan, Grenadier Guards. Born March 5, 1812; died Jan. 26, 1852.
Sacred to the Memory of Admiral the Right Honourable George Earl Cadogan, Companion of the Most Honourable Order of the Bath, Knight of the Imperial Order of Maria Theresa, of Austria. Born May 5, 1783: died Sept. 15, 1864.
There are inscriptions on marble tablets to the memory of the following respected parishioners, amongst some others:—
General Wilford, who resided for many years at Ranelagh, departed this life in 1822, aged 69.
Mr. William Terwin, died Feb. 24, 1826, in the 74th year of his age. Also, his brother, Mr. John Terwin, died Jan. 8, 1827, in his 69th year.
Joseph How, Esq., of Swan Walk, Paradise Row, (Queen’s Road West,) died in 1825, aged 72. He was much respected.
Mrs. Elizabeth Smith, widow of T. Smith, Esq., of No. 1, Manor Terrace (now No. 167, King’s Road), who, by will, in 1828, bequeathed £500 three per cent. consols, to be expended annually as specified therein.
Thomas Bryan, Esq., of Cadogan Place, a magistrate for the county, died in 1830, aged 66. He was much respected, and was for some time treasurer of the Parochial Schools, and ever ready to promote a charitable object.
G. H. Hopkinson, Esq., died in the year 1829, and Charles Hopkinson, Esq., in 1830 (banker), resided in Cadogan Place for many years.
R. E. N. Lee, Esq., resided for many years in Cheyne Walk, and died in 1833. For 18 years he was Steward of the Manor.
Richard Harmer, Esq., of Sloane Street, died in 1840, aged 80 years. He was benevolent, and his death was much deplored by many of the tradesmen in the locality.
The Rev. G. Clark, M.A., chaplain at the Royal Military Asylum, a clergyman universally esteemed, died in 1848.
Peter Burrard, Esq., of Rayner Place, departed this life in 1842. He was a captain in Queen Charlotte’s Chelsea Volunteers, served the office of churchwarden, and was greatly esteemed by a large number of the parishioners.
Luke Thomas Flood, Esq., was a magistrate for the county, and for a great number of years treasurer of the Parochial Schools. There is a marble monument to his memory, near to the vestry door, in the church, which is a fine specimen of the sculptor’s art. His munificent annual gifts to the deserving and aged poor parishioners, however, is a memorial of greater value than the most costly monument. He died at Brighton, in 1860, at a very advanced age.
The Rev. Charles Kingsley, M.A., the late rector, and father of the Rev. C. Kingsley, the popular author, died in 1860, aged 78. A notice of this kind-hearted clergyman is given in the brief record of the Rectors of this church.
COST OF BUILDING THE CHURCH, &c.
The original sum for the building of the Church, as agreed to at a Public Vestry, held on the 20th of August, 1818, was not to exceed in all £30,000, including every other advance that may be made from the Commissioners of Churches, and others. The interest of this sum, together with the principal, was to be paid out of a church rate, and the rate for this purpose was not to exceed one shilling in the pound. [137] From a statement I possess, shewing the various amounts received and paid by the Trustees for building the church, and including the charges for constructing a sewer from it to the river Thames, from the 21st of July, 1819, to the 27th of October, 1824, it appears that the total sum expended to that period was £34,716 14s. 3d. This amount includes £2,020 paid for the sewer, and £3,595 for interest on annuities, up to the time of the above statement. The entire cost of building the church, &c., is generally estimated as being rather more than £40,000. It is calculated that it will very well accommodate 2,000 persons.
There was a petition signed against the New Church Bill, in which it was acknowledged that there was a total inadequacy of church accommodation in the parish—the population of which the petitioners stated to be 20,000 souls—but they submitted that “it would be better to erect two chapels, capable of holding 1,500 persons each, one to be situated at each extremity of the parish, which might be done for one half the church would cost.” Dr. Anthony Todd Thomson, of Sloane Street, who was one of the most able speakers in the parish, most powerfully advocated the erection of two chapels, but the opposition entirely failed.
RECTORS AT THE NEW ST. LUKE’S CHURCH.
In the account of the Old Church a list of the Rectors connected with that ancient edifice was given, we will now refer to those since the completion of the new Parish Church.
The Hon. and Rev. G. V. Wellesley, D.D., who had been for many years previously Rector, was a brother of the Duke of Wellington, “the great hero of many a hard-fought battle.” Making a deduction for some slight difference in the corporeal appearance of them, there was a great resemblance of features, and in quickness of conception, correctness of judgment, and general determination of character, there was an astonishing similarity. Dr. Wellesley was quick in forming his conclusions, and appeared at times to be somewhat hasty, but generally it would be found that his views were founded on truth and justice. This remark applies more especially to the part he took as chairman of many of the “open vestry” parish meetings, at which there was frequently much contention. It was admitted, however, by those who were at times opposed to his views that his conduct was impartial and conciliatory, and the natural result was that he gained the respect of all classes of the ratepayers, and thus allayed much of that asperity of feeling which is too often manifested by contending parties.
Dr. Wellesley’s appointment of the Rev. Henry Blunt, M.A., then a young clergyman who had gained the esteem of a large portion of the parishioners, as Morning Preacher and Senior Curate, gave great satisfaction, and, as presently will be seen, shewed the correct opinion he had entertained of Mr. Blunt’s piety, zeal, and qualifications to discharge the sacred duties he had so wisely entrusted to him. Dr. Wellesley, after some years had elapsed, resigned, and died at Bishopwearmouth, at an advanced age.
Some few particulars respecting the Rev. H. Blunt may here be very appropriately mentioned. The following opinion of him, as a preacher, given by an avowed infidel, will convey a tolerably good idea of his impressive manner of delivery. I will give it as nearly as possible in the individual’s own words. “I went,” said he, “to your place yesterday, (meaning the church,) and if ever I go again anywhere it shall be to hear Mr. Blunt. I went in and meant to come out shortly, but I had no sooner looked at him than his keen eyes seemed fixed on mine, and as he appeared so sincere in what he said, I remained till he had finished. He certainly was most persuasive, and it spoilt my dinner.” This was afterwards mentioned to Mr. Blunt, who smiled, and said, “I hope there were many others who went home to their dinners equally impressed.”
When Trinity Church, Sloane Street, was completed, the Rev. Mr. Blunt became the Incumbent (the parish at that time was not as at present divided into ecclesiastical divisions). Here he was again greatly beloved by his large congregation, including both rich and poor. Some years afterwards he accepted the Rectory of Streatham, Surrey, where he at length died, as much esteemed by the inhabitants there, as he had been previously at Chelsea. Mr. Blunt was the chief founder of the first Benevolent Society established in this parish, in 1829, entitled the Chelsea Relief Association, and principally through his exertions no less a sum than £163 was collected within a very short period. Hence arose other similar societies, whose benevolent objects are well deserving of support. The Infant School, in Markham Street, might be considered as Mr. Blunt’s cherished offspring, and the National Schools at all times were regarded by him with feelings of deep regard.
The Rev. Mr. Lockwood, M.A., succeeded the Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, as rector, and manifested great interest in promoting the welfare of the parish, but after a comparatively short period he resigned.
The Rev. Charles Kingsley, M.A., next became Rector, and continued as such for many years. He was but seldom absent from the parish, and exhibited on all occasions a kind and benevolent disposition. He died in the year 1860, aged 78. Mrs. Kingsley was very active in establishing the Rectory Girls’ School, and in promoting a variety of charities to aid the poor.
The Rev. G. A. Blunt, M.A., (son of the late Rev. H. Blunt,) succeeded Mr. Kingsley, and is the present Rector. He has evinced the greatest desire to promote the religious, moral, and intellectual advancement of the working classes, and takes a deep interest in promoting the Parochial National and Infant Schools, &c. There is one charitable society, of such a humane and practical character, that it deserves to be specially noticed. It is called “The Sick Kitchen.” In a printed “Letter addressed to the Congregation and Parishioners of St. Luke’s, Chelsea,” 1869, Mr. Blunt states that it is “carried on in a building erected for the purpose in 1861, in the Rectory Garden. Its object is to provide nutritious dinners for the poor who are recovering from sickness. It is supported by voluntary contributions, the early Communion alms, and half the contents of the church boxes at St. Luke’s. An average of thirty poor people are thus supplied daily for nine months in the year. There is no charge made, the orders being given by the Curates and District Visitors, among the cases they visit. The dinners consist of roast meat three times a week, soup, puddings, &c., on the alternate days; beef tea daily.”
The advowson anciently belonged, as already stated, to the Abbot and Convent of Westminster, till they exchanged it, 17th July, 28 Henry VIII., together with their manors of Neyte and Hyde, with the king, for the priory of Hurley. It continued in the possession of the Crown till Queen Elizabeth, by letters patent, dated July 3rd, second year of her reign, demised to Ann, Duchess of Somerset, the advowson of the parish church and rectory for her life, the reversion to the Queen. After the death of the duchess it was granted to the Earl of Nottingham and his Countess for three lives. King Charles I. granted the advowson, with the manor, to James Duke of Hamilton, and in the next reign Charles Cheyne, Esq., purchased the manor, to which the rectory has ever since been annexed.
In the year 1327, 1st of Edward III., the rectory was rated at thirteen marks, and in the king’s books at £13 6s. 8d., and the yearly tenths £1 6s. 8d.
Among Dr. King’s original papers is the following account of the rectory: “The ancient parsonage-house, with 14 acres and 22 perches of land, stood west of the Duke of Beaufort’s, then the Marquis of Winchester’s. In lieu of which, upon an exchange, the present house, and land about it, was given to the rectory for ever, by the consent of the Queen, the then patron, Dr. Edmund Grindall, Bishop of London, and Robt. Richardson, Rector of Chelsea, who conveyed the old house and land to the Marquis by writing, bearing date May 3, 1566.”
In 1650, it was reported to the Commissioners appointed by the Parliament, that the parsonage-house of Chelsea, with twenty acres of glebe, belonging to the same, were valued at £60 per annum, and the tithes worth £60 more.
The Rectory House, situated in Church Street, is very plain as regards its exterior appearance. The grounds are enclosed by a wall, and there are carriage entrances to the house. The interior is commodious, but scarcely adequate to the requirements of a large establishment in the present day.
THE BURIAL GROUND, OR CEMETERY.
In the south and north portions of the ground there are a great number of memorial stones, and a few brick vaults. That portion, situated at the north-eastern division, near to Bond Street and Marlborough Square, the ground of which is raised above the general surface, may be considered almost as one huge grave, containing a mass of interments. It was originally called “The Poor Ground,” on account of its being devoted exclusively for those who were buried at the expense of the parish. It would display much good feeling and sympathy, if some simple but appropriate record was placed there. It might be done by subscription, should there be no funds available for such a purpose.
With respect to the numerous inscriptions, it would be impossible, as already stated, to notice more than a very few of them, and they contain generally only the name and age of the person interred. And, after all, we may say with the poet,
“The best concerted schemes men lay for fame, Die fast away; only themselves die faster. The far-famed sculptor and the laurelled bard, Those bold insurancers of deathless fame, Supply their little feeble aids in vain.”
Blair’s Grave.
William Jones, Esq., aged 83, resided in Manor Street, Cheyne Walk. He was a good Hebrew and Greek scholar, but it is in the character of a naturalist that he must be principally regarded, Mr. Jones having painted from nature about 1,500 species of butterflies in a most masterly manner, and not only painted but arranged and characterized them in Latin.
Matthew Yatman, Esq., of Lindsey Row, died in 1814; he was a most accomplished gentleman.
Signor Carlo Rovedino, an Italian, died in this parish Oct. 6, 1822, aged 71; he was well known on the continent and in this country as a bass singer.
Thomas Raven, a pupil in St. George’s Hospital, died in his sleep in 1826, aged 20.
Dr. John M‘Leod, the companion of Sir Murray Maxwell, and the author of a voyage in H.M. ship “Alceste,” to the Yellow Sea, and of her shipwreck in the Straits of Gaspar; he died in the King’s Road in 1820, aged 38.
Thomas Davey, Esq., of the King’s Road, died in 1833; he was a celebrated florist, and resided opposite Royal Avenue Terrace. This gentleman served most of the old parochial offices, and his general good-natured disposition gained for him the respect of all parties in the parish.
William Tebbs, Esq. died in 1831, aged 59; he was beloved by a large circle of friends, and esteemed by all who knew him.
Most of the old and respected parishioners of Chelsea, who once occupied a prominent position in it, have passed away from the scenes of this world, to enjoy, it is hoped, that pure and unalloyed happiness which can only be realized in that kingdom where there is neither poverty, anxiety, sorrow, or pain. Some of them no doubt are interred in this ground, but it would have displayed partiality to have noticed some and emitted others.
From an official statement, dated Dec. 22, 1823, shewing the receipts and disbursements under each head, from the incorporation of the Burial Ground Trustees, April 10, to September 1823, it appears that the whole amount of expenditure, during the above period, was £17,243 8s. 6d. This amount included £4,713 1s. 0¼d., for enclosing the ground, and £1,135 5s. 7½d., for building the temporary chapel, which was erected at the northern entrance, for reading the Funeral Service, previously to the erection of the Church.
In concluding the account of St. Luke’s Church, and Burial Ground, I venture to insert, at the request of some subscribers to this work, the following lines:—
REMINISCENCES OF ST. LUKE’S CHURCH.
Whene’er I view that beauteous tower, Built with artistic taste and power Upon yon sacred sod, My heart awakes, with thankful strain, For in old age I see again That temple of my God.
Once in that Church I bent the knee, And join’d the holy minstrelsy That lifts the soul above:— The powerful organ swell’d on high, And many felt that God was nigh, Inspir’d by faith and love.
I’ve seen there a bride, in rich attire, Receive the ring from her loving sire, And sign the marriage book:— Then when they left the bells were rung, And the porch fill’d with old and young, To see their happy look.
I’ve stood beside the baptismal font, Where children oft to Christ were brought, And th’ cross mark’d o’er their brow:— And it was a joyful after-sight To see them, in emblematic white, Confirm their sponsor’s vow.
The preacher, by his earnest way, Fill’d the Church on the Sabbath day, And touch’d their hearts within:— He told them of the bleating sheep, [144] Of Saul’s deceit, and crime so deep, And warn’d them of his sin.
And there have aged pilgrims stood, (Now safely pass’d o’er Jordan’s flood, And gain’d blest Canaan’s shore,) Each burthen there they seem’d to cast, As if each danger they had pass’d, And all their toil was o’er.
And last I’ve seen the funeral train, Like mourners on a desert plain, Come slowly with their load:— I’ve stood beside the silent bier, And watch’d the trickling kindred tear Fall in death’s drear abode.
Oh! when I view that sacred tower, At morning or at evening hour, By pure devotion led, I love to meditate awhile— I think I see some angels smile Above the peaceful dead!
Chelsea, 1867.
George Bryan.
PARISH REGISTERS.
We now come to an exceedingly interesting subject, interesting alike, both to old and young, when we consider the very small population of the parish three centuries back compared with the present time now numbering about 70,000. Many of the early records of Parish Registers, will be found often written in so quaint a style as to be almost amusing, still they carry with them solemn thoughts, if rightly regarded, which ought to produce a salutary effect. When we read, too, the inscriptions on the monuments in our cathedrals, old churches, and in our cemeteries, and find ourselves actually walking over the remains of noblemen, statesmen, and others—some celebrated for their noble and gallant conduct, or for hospitality and munificence, and many for their devotion to the study of theology, literature, the fine arts, &c.—we become, as it were, rivetted to the sacred spot, and whatever pleasing historical associations may occur to the mind, they are involuntarily mingled with reflections of a far more solemn character.
The first institution of Parish Registers in England commenced in 1501, 16th of Henry VIII., although the keeping of them was not strictly enjoined till the injunction of Lord Cromwell, 30th of Henry VIII., but he being considered as a favourer of innovations in religion, the good intent of them was much misrepresented, and his order rarely attended to by the clergy. A second order of this kind was issued in the second year of Edward VI., 1547, though perhaps little complied with. A third order is found in the statutes of the National Synod, by Cardinal Pole, about 1555, and the last and most successful in the 1st, 7th, and 39th years of Elizabeth.
The first Chelsea Parish Register Book is a small folio, vellum, a great part of which is beautifully written. It commences with the year 1559, and appears to be accurately kept, except that it is imperfect during the Interregnum; and there are some omissions in the burials between 1564 and 1591, and between 1644 and 1652, the year in which it ends. In the first leaf there is this memorandum: “A Booke begun in the House of God for Regestringe of all Christenings, Marages, and Burialls within the Parishe of Chelsey, provided for that purpose by J. Tomkins and Thomas Saunders, Church Wardens, the 19 daye of Feburarie 1559, and new in the time and yeare of Richard Warde, Parson of Chelsey, 11 March, 1599.”
The following are a few selected from the Baptisms, Marriages, and Burials:—
Baptisms.
1559. William Hitchcock was baptized the 19th day of Februarie. (This is the first registered.)
1576. Gabriel, the son of Thomas Browne, Parson, 3rd April.
1593. Elizabeth, filia Johis. Stanhope, armi. and Margaritæ uxoris ejus, 14th August (afterwards married to Sir Lionel Talmash.)
1594. Margaret Stanley, 17th April.
1595. Carolus filius Johs. Stanhope, armi. April 27. (afterwards second Lord Stanhope.)
1597. Charles, a boy, by estimacon x or xii yeares old, brought by Sir Walter Rawlie from Guiana, Feb. 13.
1599. William, the sonne of Sir Arthur Gorge, Kt., 31st May.
1600. Timoleon, sonne of Sir Arthur Gorge, and Lady Elizabeth, his wife, baptized primo Octobris.
1612. Frances, the daughter of Sir Walter Alston, Knight, 26th April.
1613. Fielde, a poor man child, found in the east field of Chelsey, 13th October.
1639. Chelsey, a child born in the west fields, was baptized Feb. 1.
The remaining baptismal entries, and some of those omitted, include the sons or daughters of the Earl of Nottingham, Lord Cranfield, Earl of Lincolne, Sir John Danvers, Sir G. Wentworth, Lord Commissioner Whitelocke, Charles Cheyne, Esq., Charles Stanley, Esq., Sir Henry Herbert, Earl of Lindsey, &c.
Marriages.
1559. W. Harris and Eliz. Buger. (This is the first marriage registered.)
1560. In this year there were four marriages, and a very few afterwards until 1600.
1582. T. Mansell, esquier, son and heir to Sir Edward Mansell, and Mary Mordant, daughter of Lord Mordant, July 30.
1589 Johannes Stanhope, armiger, et Margaritta Mackwilliams, alias Cheecke, 6 die Maii. (He was created a Baron in 1606.)
1607. Richard Warde, Parson, and Elizabeth Fisher, Jan. 29.
1648. Sir John Danvers and Mrs. Grace Hewet, Jan. 6. No entry of marriages from 1648 to 1652, when there were three.
1675. W. Cheyne, Esq., only son of Charles Cheyne, Lord of this Manor, and Mrs. Elizabeth Thomas, both of this parish, Dec. 16.
1703. Lord Windsor and Lady Dowager Jeffreys, relict of Judge Jeffreys.
1711. The Hon. Algernon Grevile and the Hon. Mary Somerset, grand-daughter to the Duchess Dowager of Beaufort, Dec. 24.
1713. The Duke of Grafton and Lady Somerset, April 10.
Burials.
1565. None were buried—not a single person died in the parish, during this year.
1593. Thomas Larrance de civitate, London, goldsmith.—John Edwards and Thomas Evans, servants, buried both together, died of the plague. Three more died of the plague about the same time.
1594. Alice Griffin, a poore washwoman, buried 2nd Feb.—Ann, a poore woman, buried from a stable.
1594. Gregorie Fynes, Lord Dacre of the South, 25th Sept., whose funeralls and burial were kepte the 5th Novemb. at Chelsey.—The Lady Anne, wife of Lord Dacre, was buried 15th of May, whose funeralls were solemnized at Chelsey, the 19th June, 1595.
1603. Catharyne, the Countess of Nottingham, was buried at Chelsey the 28th of Feb., and her funeralls were honourably kepte at Chelsey, the 28th March.—George, a poore boye, was buried 2nd March; he died in the Lordship’s Yarde.
1604. Thomas Younge, a Yeoman of the Guards, Sept. 29, who hath given to the parishes of Chelsey, Willsden, and Kensington, xxs. apiece yearly for ever to the use of the poore there.
1605. Catherine, wife of Richard Warde, Parson of Chelsey.
1606. Richard Munden, the Clerk, buried of the plague; also his son, Thomas, of the plague. [147]
1608. Thomas Forrest, a godly preacher, Feb. 7.—Richard Eryth, our poore Schoolmaster, March 26.
1609. William Gulley was buried out of the Erle of Lincolne’s stable, 14 Augusti—One William Morgan, a poore man died in a straw house, and buried Oct. 1.
1610. There were six buried of the plague this year.
1613. Jana, a poore woman, out of the barn, Dec. 25.—A poore woman found dead at the Earl of Lincoln’s, and another in the Lordship’s barn, buried the same day.
1615. The Lord of Effingham buried.—Richard Ward, Parson, Sept. 2.
1620. Katharin, Countesse of Huntingdon, Aug. 14. She was daughter of John, Duke of Northumberland.
1625. Sir Arthur Gorges, Oct. 10.—Twenty-two persons died of the plague.
1627. Magdalen Danvers, wife of Sir John Danvers, June 8.
1632. Sir Robert Stanley, buried Jan. 23.
1636. Eight died of the plague this year.
1638. Sir John Lawrence, Knt., Nov. 14.
1643. Lady Elizabeth Gorges, buried July 29th.—Six died of the plague in the parish this year.
1668. Arthur Gorges, Esq., April 8.
1669. Lady Jane Cheyne, Nov. 1.
1688. Sir Joseph Alston, Knight, May 31.
1692. Thomas Shadwell, Esq., Poet Laureat, Nov. 24.
1694. Dr. Adam Littleton, rector, July 3.
1698. Charles, Viscount Cheyne, Lord of the Manor, July 13.
1703. Dr. Edward Chamberlayne, May 27.
1714. Sir Thomas Lawrence, Bart., April 25.—Countess Dowager of Radnor, sen., July 15.
1731. Mrs. Mary Astell, May 14; she published an Essay in Defence of the Fair Sex, &c., and resided in Chelsea the greatest part of her life.
1753. Sir Hans Sloane, Jan. 18.
1775. Henry Mossop, January 1st; he made his appearance at Drury Lane Theatre in 1752, and was one of the first actors of his time; he died in great distress in this parish, but, after his death, his brethren paid him every respect; his remains were followed by all the theatrical corps at that time in London, at the head of whom was Garrick, to Chelsea Church.
1799. Dr. William Kenwick, June 13, the author of several dramatic and poetical works.
1780. Sir John Fielding, September 13; he was half-brother to the celebrated Henry Fielding, author of “Tom Jones,” and succeeded him to the presidency at Bow Street, which, although nearly blind from his youth, he filled with great sagacity for many years.
1785. John Baptist Cipriani, December 21.
1804. Catherine Ruini Galli, December 30. This lady died at her lodgings in Chelsea, in the 81st year of her age. She was the last surviving scholar of Handel, who composed some of his airs for her. Galli had a mezzo soprano voice, and first appeared at the Opera House.
1805. Dr. Bisset, May 21; he kept an academy in Sloane Street, and published several works.
1805. Henry Sampson Woodfall, Esq., Dec. 11.
(It would occupy a volume to give even a selection of the Baptisms, Marriages, and Burials that have since taken place.)
THE OLD PARISH BOOKS.
The original books, previous to the year 1696, are all lost; and the parishioners are indebted to the industry of Lord Cheyne for the preservation of many of these historical fragments. The following few extracts from the early dates, taken from amongst many others, are singular:—
1595. Of Richard Munden, wch he gained to the Church by the Wheel of Fortune, xxixs. viiid.
1697. Gave a poore man by the College, having just buried his wife and left with 3 small children, and in great agony and dispair, fearing he would with himself make away, 1s. Payd for a truss of straw to put in the Cage, for a poore woman to lye on, and gave her two pence, 8d. Payd Mr. Tuley for cureing Charles Matthews’s toes of a mortification, £2 5s. Gave Stacey, for shaving a child’s head, 6d.
1707. Ordered, in Vestry, that the weekly pensioners shall wear badges, according to the Act of Parliament, or else be excluded from the said weekly pension.
1782. Resolved to employ a number of labourers to cut off all the little twigs, in order to destroy certain insects which appear everywhere in our trees and hedges; and from which the most dreadful consequences are apprehended if they are suffered to remain.
1795. Resolved, that a bounty of twenty guineas be offered and paid to eight men, agreeably to Act of Parliament, for the service of his Majesty’s navy; and, if not sufficient, the churchwardens to have power to augment the same.
1796. Resolved to make a rate of 4d. in the pound to defray the necessary expenses of raising eleven men for the service of his Majesty’s navy.
As the population increased the records of the parish naturally became more voluminous, and for many years past the proceedings of the vestrymen, and also of the Board of Guardians, are kept in the most admirable manner. This, it is true, is the effect of the improved state of society, the passing of the Metropolis Local Management Act, 1855, and the introduction of better Laws for the relief and maintenance of the poor.
THE PAROCHIAL SCHOOLS.
These schools are situated at the east side of the Cemetery. The pointed style was adopted on account of the contiguity of the building to the Parish Church. It consists of a centre, with low wings. The wings are occupied by the schools, and the centre as residences intended for the master and mistress; a large pointed arch connects the two divisions. The first stone was laid on the 18th of June, 1824, by the Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, rector, with the customary formalities, at which there were present the late Rev. Henry Blunt, and several other clergymen, besides a vast number of the parishioners, including many ladies. In 1826 the entire building was finished, and the children were admitted.
CHELSEA WORKHOUSE.
Before the year 1723 there were no workhouses in England. It was the custom to relieve the able-bodied at their own dwelling places, and the aged and infirm were, in many cases, supported by the alms given at the church. In 1727, it was “agreed that the churchwardens should be empowered to take, with all convenient speed, a proper house upon lease, in the name of the parish, for the use of the poor.” In 1733 it was resolved, at a vestry, “That a committee be appointed to find out the most proper method to procure a workhouse for the poor, and an additional burial ground.” The result was that Sir Hans Sloane gave the present ground for both purposes, and the first erection of the workhouse took place about 1737.
The building, at the early part of this century, contained but few dwelling rooms, besides those occupied by the master and mistress. It had two wings, however, the one to the south-west was built in 1792, and the south-east wing in 1797. The whole did not occupy much space. There was a garden, tastefully laid out, with a neat box-edging around each compartment. [150] An aged inmate was the gardener, and he took great delight in keeping it in good order. How altered is now the appearance of the workhouse! The pretty garden, where once I plucked a flower, has long since disappeared, and on its site are erected extensive buildings, to afford necessary accommodation for the vast increase of inmates. Since the period to which I first alluded many additions have been made to the original workhouse, and consequently it was altogether devoid of uniformity; but as it has been within the last few years almost rebuilt, under the direction of G. Handford, Esq., architect and surveyor, of the King’s Road, the defect mentioned is no longer apparent. Indeed, unless it had been an entire new erection, no further improvement, as regards the exterior, could have been made. The interior is well arranged, both for comfort and convenience. There are at the present time upwards of 560 inmates, and the Guardians afford every reasonable indulgence to the aged and deserving amongst them. Thomas Symons, Esq., the Chairman of the Board, is highly esteemed by the parishioners, and they have recently presented to him a very handsome testimonial of respect.
THE KING’S ROAD CEMETERY.
This cemetery adjoins the workhouse, and the ground was the gift of Sir Hans Sloane. It was consecrated in 1736, by Edmund Gibson, Bishop of London. In 1790 it was enlarged by a grant from Lord Cadogan.
The obelisk, near the centre, was erected to the memory of Andrew Millar, an eminent bookseller in London, who died in 1768, aged 61 years; he had little pretensions to learning, but possessed a very nice discrimination in selecting his literary counsellors.
On a flat stone, on the north side, is an inscription in memory of John Martyn, F.R.S., Professor of Botany at Cambridge, and Eulalia, his wife, youngest daughter of the Rev. Dr. King, rector. She died in 1748–9, and Mr. Martyn in 1768.
John Baptist Cipriani, the celebrated artist, and one of the earliest members of the Royal Academy, was interred in this burial ground. On the north side is a tomb to his memory. Cipriani excelled in delineating the human figure, and was much employed by the printsellers in making drawings, which are well known by Bartolozzi’s beautiful engravings from them; he died in 1785, aged 58.
The Rev. Philip Withers, D.D., July 1790. In 1779 he published proposals for a splendid edition of the Table of Cebes, with plates and notes, intended for the benefit of the Sons of the Clergy, but owing to some misunderstanding with Archbishop Cornwallis, the work never appeared; he lived in Sloane Square in 1789, and imprudently published several libellous pamphlets, for which he was convicted. He was committed to Newgate for twelve months, fined £50, and died there of a fever.
Dr. Sloane Ellesmere, rector, was buried here in 1766; and Lady Rous, aged 90, widow of Sir W. Rous, Alderman of London, in 1777.
Hannah Aston and Anne Aston, two sisters, died in 1806. These unfortunate young women were daughters of Mr. Aston, of Robinson’s Lane (now Flood Street), and had been with a party to Richmond. On their return the boat struck on a barge near Putney Bridge, by which accident they were both drowned, together with Mr. Isaac Van Butchell, son of the eccentric Dr. Van Butchell.
In this ground is the family vault of the Rev. Weeden Butler, whom we have noticed amongst the residents in Cheyne Walk.
Mr. John Fraser, nurseryman, who resided many years in the King’s Road, close to Sloane Square; he was ardently attached to botanical researches, and several times explored the wilds of North America; he died in 1811.
Mrs. Elizabeth Smith, of the King’s Road, died in 1828, in the 49th year of her age, after a short but severe illness.
There have been but few interments in this burial ground for many years. When the new St. Luke’s cemetery was completed, in 1812, this ground was closed, excepting to those who had relatives previously buried in it. The population of the parish, from the year just mentioned, rapidly increased, and the burials, about 1832, amounted in the year to upwards of 600, but many of these belonged to the adjoining parishes, and a large proportion were children.
The King’s Road: ITS ORIGIN, EARLY CONDITION, AND PRESENT STATE.
As this road is the central great thoroughfare through Chelsea, some early particulars respecting it cannot be otherwise than interesting. It was originally only a footway through the fields, for the use of the farmers and gardeners to get access to their lands; but soon after the restoration of Charles II. it was found a convenient way for his Majesty to go to Hampton Court Palace, and thus it was, after some discussion between the Government and the parishioners of Chelsea, converted into a coach road. The following extracts from the petition of Sir Hans Sloane, Bart., Lord of the Manor, and other freeholders, will give a sufficient detail of its history and origin, and from which it appears that disputes had arisen concerning the right of way; and after the claims of the inhabitants had been considered by the Lords Commissioners of his Majesty’s Treasury, the matter was finally decided in their favour in the year 1719, the 5th of George I.:—
To the Rt. Hon. the Lords of His Majesty’s Treasury, &c. [153a]
“That before the restoration of King Charles the Second, and some time after, the fields of Chelsea were open fields; and that the bridge, called Bloody Bridge, [153b] was only a foot-bridge, with a plank or board; and the way leading thence to the lane facing Blackland House, [153c] was then only a foot-path of about five feet wide, and the lands on each side were plowed and sowed close up to the same; and that from the said lane to the town gate was only a baulk, or head land, of about ten or twelve feet broad, or thereabouts; and the lands on each side of the said head-lands were also ploughed up to the edges thereof; and that the said head-land was used by the owners and occupiers of the said lands for a way, egress and regress, to their lands, with ploughs and other utensils of husbandry, and to carry off their crops from their lands, time out of mind. That some time after the restoration, King Charles II. built Bloody Bridge, as it now stands; and, as we are informed, agreed with the then Lord of the Manor, and others concerned, for the said head-land, for his Majesty’s private road, allowing the freeholders their ancient way through the same. Whereupon the king made the road with gravel, and the landowners ditched out their lands on each side of the same; and the king took upon him the repair of the gate at the town end (which before was maintained by the parishioners), and as soon as the fields were sown, was hung up and shut, and, after harvest, was always open until seed time returned again, as many yet alive well remember. And ever since the landholders of the said parish have been in possession of a free way and passage to their lands through the said road, (some persons having no other way,) and were never denied it during the reigns of King Charles the Second, King James, King William, and Queen Anne, as we can make appear by sufficient evidence. Now, whereas, upon his present Majesty’s repairing the said road, the present Surveyor-General has given orders to shut the gates against the landholders of Chelsea, to their great detriment, and, as we conceive, to the debarring them of their right. We humbly beg your Lordships will take the matter into your consideration, hear our evidence, and grant us such relief as, in your great wisdom, you shall think fit. That the late Duchess Dowager of Beaufort (to whose stables and offices there is no other way), about five or six years ago, ordered her stewards and servants to cut down a turnpike, which Mr. Manly, the Surveyor-General, had set up between the walls at the corner, next Church Lane (Street); and they carried the posts away, being set up, as she said, upon her ground.”
To this petition was attached the evidence of several of the freeholders, in confirmation of what was stated in the above petition. One of these was given by Mr. Matthew Hutchins, gardener, of the King’s Road.
The above petition was referred to Hugh Cholmley, Esq., Surveyor-General, and William Watkins, Esq., Surveyor of his Majesty’s private roads. The reports from these two official gentlemen were evasive and unsatisfactory, and consequently a second statement was sent to the Commissioners, in reply to the objections. This last statement from Sir Hans Sloane was dated May 6, 1719.
On the same day (May 6) the following letter was received:—“My Lords direct Mr. Watkins to permit the tenants of the lands adjoining to the King’s Road, through Chelsea, to have free passage through the same, with their carts and horses, in the manner they have been accustomed to; and that the ditches which belong to the land, and lately filled up, be opened again.”
The above particulars explain the origin of placing the gates, or bars, at different parts of the King’s Road, and which many of the parishioners at the present time well remember.
Daring robberies and murders appear to have been very frequent about this period, especially in the Five Fields, (now Eaton Square, &c.) and along the whole line of the King’s Private Road.
Mr. Timbs, F.S.A., says, “In the King’s Road, near the spot where is now the Vestry Hall, the Earl of Peterborough was stopped by highwaymen in what was then a narrow lane; and the robbers, being watched by some soldiers, who formed a part of the guard at Chelsea College, were fired at from behind the hedge; one of these highwaymen turned out to be a student in the Temple, whose father having lost his estate, his son lived by ‘play, sharping, and a little on the highway,’ the desperate resources of the day.”
In September, 1753, a Mr. Crouch, cook to the Earl of Harrington, was attacked at night by two men who took his watch and money, and then stabbed him with a knife and beat him till he died. [155]
The following most diabolical and remarkable case of burglary and murder occurred in the King’s Road in 1771:—
On the site of the King’s Parade (near to Oakley Square) stood an ancient farm, which was in the occupation of the family of Mrs. Hutchins for many years. She was a widow, and some Jews it appeared made inquiries as to her circumstances, and considering there was a chance of obtaining valuable booty, determined on robbing the house. In June, 1771, they sauntered about the fields till 10 o’clock at night, and then went and knocked at the door, which was opened by a female servant, when immediately eight Jews entered the house. They seized the girl and treated her with great severity. Mrs. Hutchins went to her servant’s assistance, but one of them, Levi Weil, called Dr. Weil, compelled her to sit in a chair, after which he threw part of her clothes over her head to prevent her seeing their faces, and threatened to murder her if she made any resistance. They then went up stairs to a room, where Joseph Slow and William Stone, two men servants, were in bed, and in a sound sleep. Dr. Weil gave Stone a violent blow on the breast, when Slow instantly started up, on which the others cried out “Shoot him!” and a pistol was fired, the ball from which entered the body of Slow, who exclaimed, “Lord have mercy upon me! I am murdered! I am murdered!” They then dragged him to the stairs, which, being observed by Stone, he made his escape out of the window. They then robbed the house, and demanded money of Mrs. Hutchins, one of them struck her violently, and threatened to kill her. She was compelled at length to give her watch and 64 guineas, after which they quitted the house. Mrs. Hutchins then went to see her servants. She found the two maid-servants bound together; and no sooner had she given them their liberty than the wounded man said, “How are you, madam, for I am dying.” These words were scarcely uttered, when he fell down on the floor, and having suffered the most excruciating pain, expired on the following day, leaving a wife and two children to lament his loss.
The robbery and murder was no sooner known than a reward was offered from the Secretary of State’s office, for the apprehension of the gang. The offer was seconded by that of a much larger reward from the City of London; and also another of £50 from the parishioners of Chelsea.
The murderers, however, remained undiscoverd for a considerable time till Daniel Isaacs, one of the gang, became the means of discovering his accomplices, in the following manner:—Isaacs, being touched with remorse of conscience, &c., sent for a friend and acknowledged himself to be one of the nine men concerned in the robbery and murder at Mrs. Hutchins’s, at Chelsea. He desired his friend to inform some magistrate of it; and having told him the names and places of abode of his accomplices, his friend went immediately to Sir John Fielding, at Bow Street, who sent the officers after them, by which means seven of them were taken. The cause of this confession and remorse of conduct, on the part of Isaacs, was distress. He applied for relief to the elders of the Jewish synagogue, but the treasurer refused him any immediate assistance, urging as a reason that he should not have left his native country, Holland, where he might have obtained probably an honest living. At that time a great number of Jews came to this country, and a selection of cases could only be relieved. Isaacs, in consequence of the refusal, became greatly distressed, and, in order to gain the reward, offered by the City of London, made the above confession.
Isaacs was admitted to give evidence against his accomplices, six of whom were soon apprehended, but the other made his escape. There appears to have been some discrepancy as regards the number of the gang, one account states eight, while another mentions nine.
At the Old Bailey Sessions, in December, 1771, Levi Weil, Asher Weil, Marcus Hartogh, Jacob Lazarus, Solomon Porter, Hyam Lazarus, and Abraham Linewill, (the man who had absconded) were indicted for the robbery and murder, when the two of the name of Weil, with Jacob Lazarus and Solomon Porter, were capitally convicted, and Marcus Hartogh and Hyam Lazarus were acquitted.
Mrs. Hutchins deposed on the trial, that about six weeks before her house was robbed, Hyam Lazarus came to it, inquiring for one Beetham, a weaver, when she said she knew no such person; that on the 11th of June, the night of the robbery she heard the dog bark, about ten o’clock at night, her men being then gone to bed; that she called to one of her two maid-servants to see what was the matter with the dog, and shortly after, hearing a noise, she ran herself to see, and found her maid, Mary Hodgkin, with her cap off, and some men using her extremely ill; that to the best of her remembrance, she recollected Levi Weil and Hyam Lazarus to be among these men; and though her fright was exceedingly great, she did her endeavour to assist her maid, but that Levi Weil (called the Doctor,) pushed her into a chair, and pulled her upper petticoat over her face, which hindered her seeing any of the rest. Hearing her cook cry very much, one of them said, “Cut her throat;” another, “If you don’t hold your tongue, I will cut your throat.” Then coming to her (Mrs. Hutchins) they offered to tie her legs, and she begged they would not, as she would not stir; whereupon they all went to another room, the door of which being locked, they said they would break it, if not immediately opened, and returned from it in about five minutes; that then going up stairs, she shortly after heard somebody cry “fire!” and after much swearing, heard also a pistol go off, and a man cried out, and begged they would not; that, endeavouring to get out at the back door, she was prevented by some men on the outside, who told her if they were not her friends they would blow her brains out; that then returning to her chair, she heard a very great noise above stairs, as if they were throwing the servant down, and a little while after she heard another pistol go off; that the wounded man, endeavouring to get down, came to her, and said, “How are you ma’am, for I am a dead man;” on which, turning short, he fell on the ground; that his shirt was on fire close to the wound just under the shoulder, which she put out, that he groaned very much, and complained of being cold; that the people in the house, running from room to room, came down to her, and Levi Weil, to the best of her knowledge, took the buckles out of her shoes, and two others attempted to put their hands into her pockets; she begged they would not, saying she would give them something worth their acceptance, and accordingly gave them her purse and watch; that asking where her plate was, she told them, and they took it out of the cupboard, and gave it to their companions at the back door. That going into the parlour, where there was a cupboard, they broke it open; and she following, told them there was nothing in it worth having but paper; but that one of them, a short, thick, elderly man, struck her on the face with a pistol, and would have shot her, had not the Doctor turned the pistol with his hand.
The Recorder prefaced the sentence with a judicious and just compliment to the principal Jews, for their very laudable conduct in the course of the prosecution, and hoped no person would stigmatize a whole nation for the villanies of a few.
These men, as was customary formerly in cases of murder, were tried on a Friday, and on the following day (the Jewish Sabbath) they were anathematized in the Synagogue.
As their execution was to take place on the following Monday, one of the Rabbies went to them in the press-room of Newgate, and delivered to each of them a Hebrew book, but declined attending them to the place of death, nor even prayed with them, at the time of his visit. Their wives and children were admitted to take their leave of them before they set out for Tyburn, where executions took place. [159]
An immense number of people attended the execution. They prayed together, sung an hymn in the Hebrew language, and soon afterwards were launched into eternity.
The following anecdote, in reference to this daring robbery, was very frequently related many years ago, and I do not remember that its veracity was ever questioned. Soon after the conviction of the Jews, the Queen paid a visit to Mrs. Hutchins, and, after expressing the deepest sympathy for her sufferings, desired to be informed whether she could advance the interests of any member of the family. A circumstance was mentioned to her Majesty, which resulted in one of the junior branches being ultimately educated at one of the Universities.
We will now briefly notice the King’s Road, as it was at the earlier part of the present century. At the entrance into Chelsea parish, at the eastern end of Sloane Square, the bridge, to which we have several times referred, was at that period probably about 14 or 16ft. wide, on both sides of which there was a wall of sufficient height to protect passengers from falling into the narrow rivulet which it spanned, and which belonged to the commissioners of sewers. There were two little cottages near to this stream, and immediately contiguous to them was Mr. Burgess’s premises, who carried on a very good business, as a coach builder, &c. The houses around Sloane Square were nearly the same as they are at the present time, but the square was an open space, simply enclosed by wooden posts, connected by iron chains, where boys frequently played at cricket, &c. Here, too, Queen Charlotte’s Royal Volunteers often assembled, and marched off in military order to Hyde Park, accompanied by an excellent band.
In 1812 the Chelsea and Brompton Dispensary was established in Sloane Square, principally through the great exertions of the Rev. George Clark, M.A., the then chaplain of the Royal Military Asylum. At the meeting convened for that purpose, the late W. Wilberforce, Esq., M.P., presided, whose name will be ever associated with the abolition of slavery, and as the advocate of almost every humane society in this country. This admirable institution indicates the rapid growth of the population. The earliest annual average of patients did not exceed 1200, in 1860 it was upwards of 6000, and since the last date the number has greatly increased. The first physicians were Dr. Ainsley and Dr. Adam Black, and its first surgeons Robert Smith and Anthony Todd Thomson, Esqrs.
Mr. Fraser’s Botanical Grounds adjoined Sloane Square. He explored distant parts of the world several times, so ardently attached was he to botanical researches. He was patronized by a large number of the nobility and gentry. His death took place, in 1811, at his residence.
It will be seen shortly that if the King’s Road, in the “Olden Times,” was almost exclusively occupied by farmers and gardeners, that, for a number of years afterwards, one of the principal attractions to it was the many celebrated nursery and floricultural grounds.
The high wall at the Royal Military Asylum, which formed the back of the boys’ lavatory, &c., and which stood more forward than the present enclosure, had no pathway whatever against it, and the road being at one part very narrow, it was not only inconvenient but at times dangerous.
Mr. Colvill’s Nursery Ground stood on the site of Colvill Terrace, and the entrance to it was at the eastern corner. His display of flowers excited general admiration, and consequently an immense number of the gentry generally paid him a daily visit during the summer season.. The grounds, however, were only enclosed with an old wooden fence, and here again there was no footway for passengers.
Mr. Thomas Davey was also a celebrated florist, and his ground was opposite what was called the White Stiles, now known as the Royal Avenue to Chelsea College. The origin of the former name arose from there being an ornamental stile at the entrances.
The grounds of Mr. Colvill were detached from those of Mr. Davey by a footpath, on both sides of which there were neatly-trimmed hedges, and as butterflies abound in floricultural gardens, this passage was called “Butterfly Alley.” Some houses have since been built on this site, and, although the road is narrow, it now assumes the name of Keppel Street, connecting the King’s Road with the Fulham Road. Opposite the above-named alley there was a bar placed across the road, to prevent waggons, &c., from passing unless the driver produced proof that he was going to some resident in it. The origin of these bars has just been fully detailed.
Mr. Pratt, a friend of Mr. Faulkner, wrote the following lines, “Flowers and Fashion,” in reference to the above two celebrated floricultural grounds:—
Where smiling Chelsea spreads the cultur’d lands, Sacred to Flora a pavilion stands, And yet a second temple neighb’ring near Nurses the fragrance of the various year; Of Davey this, of Colvill that, the care, While both the favour of the goddess share. But not for her—the deity of flowers— Alone the incense breathes, still higher Powers:— Fair Venus marks each temple for her own, And Fashion sits upon a blossom’d throne. She, pow’r supreme! bids vanquish’d Flora kneel, And drags proud Beauty at her chariot wheel. The Cyprian Queen asserts her loftier sway, And blushing rivals with a smile obey. At Fashion’s shrine unnumber’d suppliants bow, And to their idol chaunt the sacred vow. A thousand Eves, each as their mother fair, To these gay Edens every hour repair: And though the wreaths boast but a fleeting bloom, And often press at eve a twilight tomb, Still, as by magic, we behold each morn A fresh supply the pillag’d scenes adorn; And though the lovely plunderers bear away The fairy sweets that open’d with the day; Though one fair Paradise is lost each night, Another blooms with the returning light. Thus, strange to tell! near London you behold The age of Fashion, Beauty, and of Gold.
The old White Hart public-house and tea-gardens, situated on the opposite side of the road to Mr. Davey’s grounds, was a rather ancient-looking place of resort. It was well-conducted, and occasionally a great many persons visited it. On its site is now a very respectable tavern.
Near to this house, a little to the east, about 1818, a poor man was sitting by the roadside, apparently in the most pitiable state of hunger and destitution. A pensioner belonging to Chelsea Hospital, a man of colour, was passing along at the time with a can of soup and a small loaf of bread, which he had just previously received as his dinner allowance, some of the men being allowed to have private lodgings. The pensioner gazed for a moment at the wretched object of misery, and then, with a heart full of sympathy, gave him some of the soup and bread. Such an act of benevolence excited the attention of a very young man, who, whenever he met the kind-hearted black pensioner, always felt a feeling of respect for him. Some time afterwards it came to the knowledge of this youth that the pensioner had been convicted of a certain crime, not now a capital offence, and sentenced to be executed. This communication very much surprised him, but he could not erase from his memory the humane conduct he had witnessed. Accordingly, he went to Newgate on the following day, unknown to his friends, to see the condemned malefactor. On his arrival at the prison the turnkey at the entrance door refused him admittance, and told him, in a gruff manner, that he must get an order. He then went direct to the Sheriff’s residence, and, after some conversation, obtained a special order for admission. The turnkey now became very respectful, and the young man was immediately conducted to the yard where the condemned prisoners took the benefit of the fresh air. The aged convict’s appearance was much altered, and during nearly the whole time of the visit tears rolled down his cheeks. He was thus visited several times, and, at length, through a petition presented by the authorities at Chelsea Hospital, and another from some of the parishioners, the unhappy black man’s sentence was mitigated to transportation for life. At one of the interviews, the culprit asked for some memorial of the young man’s kindness, having been previously told that his life would be spared, and a Bible was given to him, with the name of the youthful donor written in it. An assurance was given that he would see him again that week, but when the young man went the poor black pensioner had been removed from the prison, and he never heard of him afterwards. The evidence produced at the trial fully justified the verdict of being guilty of the charge, but there was gross culpability on the part of the prosecutrix.
A little beyond the old White Hart tea gardens, to the west, on the same side of the road, was the residence of the elder Mr. Downing. It stood in a neatly laid out garden, and resembled very much in appearance one of those old but comfortable retreats which may still be seen by the roadside in some parts of the country. Adjoining the garden was his extensive Floor Cloth Manufactory (on the site of which is now Wellington Square). This spacious building was situated a short distance from the road, and the approach to it was by a carriage-way on each side, the centre being a grass plat. In this manufactory were held most of the earlier annual meetings of the Chelsea Auxiliary Bible Society, which were invariably crowded. Amongst the speakers were the Rev. G. Clark, M.A., the Rev. John Owen, M.A., the Rev. Joseph Hughes, M.A., the Rev. John Morison, D.D., the Rev. R. H. Shepherd, the Rev. John Bunce, and several others. Mr. Downing, sen., was a gentleman esteemed alike for his piety and benevolence, and his sons and other branches of the family have at all times maintained a similar respect.
The residence and manufactory which we have just described was pulled down some years ago, and the present one was then erected. A deplorable event occurred, about 38 years since, at Messrs. Downings’ new Floor Cloth Manufactory, which it is requisite to notice in a work of this description. A young man, whose name was Butler, the son of very worthy parents, and who had borne a tolerably good character previous to the fatal event we are about to mention, was convicted and executed at Newgate, for setting fire to a portion of the premises. The fire broke out in or near to the stables, and as it occurred on the Sunday morning, between the hours of twelve and one o’clock, the horses were of course locked in them. It was with great difficulty that they were rescued. The evidence, although principally circumstantial, resulted in the jury finding a verdict of “Guilty.” Notwithstanding the most strenuous efforts to save the life of the young man, he suffered the extreme penalty of the then law. A Wesleyan minister, who attended him at his last moments, published a pamphlet stating his reasons for believing that he was innocent. He was interred in St. Luke’s Burial Ground, and the Church was crowded to excess.
On the same side of the road, and opposite Wellington Square, was formerly the Nursery belonging to Mr. Moore. A little further westward was the residence of Mr. Evans, sen., known as Box Farm. For many years he lived there, and was much respected in the parish.
Smith Street was begun to be built in 1794, by the late Thomas Smith, Esq., of Manor Terrace, but it was not finally; completed until about 1807.
Mr. Little’s Nursery Ground was established many years since, and at the present time it is celebrated for the production of some of the choicest plants and flowers.
Jubilee Place was first opened in 1809, and named in commemoration of that event in the annals of the reign of George the Third.
Flood Street, it appears, by ancient documents, was originally called Pound Lane, probably from the pound of the manor standing on or near its site. It was known for some years by the name of Robinson’s Lane, and since the buildings were continued to the King’s Road, it was, by an order from the magistrates, called Queen Street. It has recently been altered to Flood Street, so named as a tribute to the memory of Luke Thomas Flood, Esq., for his munificent annual gifts to the poor of this parish, and by doing which many mistakes are now obviated, as there was and is still Queen’s Road West adjoining Cheyne Walk.
Upper Manor Street was originally called Wellesley Street, in honour of the Rev. Dr. Wellesley, the then rector of the parish. A murder was committed in this street about forty years since, which created great excitement throughout Chelsea. An elderly female resided in one of the houses, and she was found dead early one morning under circumstances which left no doubt whatever that the dreadful crime just mentioned had been perpetrated. Two men were apprehended, who lived in the neighbourhood, and who had been seen standing near the house at about 12 o’clock the preceding night, but beyond that fact no further evidence was adduced. It appeared they were both at a public house that evening, and left when it was closed, but they produced no witnesses to prove that they went afterwards direct to their homes. The evidence in support of the charge being insufficient, the magistrate discharged them. One of them was a second time charged with the murder, but the result was the same. The name of the street was then altered.
Robert Street, and the adjacent streets, have all been built in the course of the present century.
Mr. Roll’s Nursery Grounds were situated two or three doors from that old established house, the “Six Bells,” and joined Argyll House. His son carried on the business for many years, and the family were greatly respected.
Edward James Mascall, Esq., a gentleman who occasionally took a very active part in parochial affairs, resided in what is now called Argyll House for many years.
The entrance to Cook’s Grounds, from the King’s Road, was anciently a back way to the stable-yard of Alston House, in Cheyne Walk. Some years ago the stone frame-work of the gate was visible in a garden in Upper Cheyne Row. Formerly the parishioners had only the privilege of a footway through the glebe land from the King’s Road, as appears from the following extract from the Vestry Minutes:—
“1755. Sept. 18. Whereas the road leading from the north end of Great Cheyne Row over the glebe land to the King’s Private Road, is the proper right of Mr. John Narbonne, of this parish, and whereas the inhabitants of this parish do frequently pass and repass that way, not only with corpse to the New Burying Ground, but to the Workhouse contiguous, as well as to other places; and as the privilege is only upon sufferance, by consent, and during the pleasure of Mr. Narbonne, therefore we unanimously agree to pay him and his heirs, as long as this privilege shall continue, upon the 1st day of May in every year, being from the day the Burying Ground was consecrated, the sum of one shilling, which we order shall be paid by the churchwardens for the time being.” There have been no material alterations made from its recent state during my remembrance; but Cook’s Grounds will soon be no longer recognised as it was in 1868, as many very superior houses are now being erected, which will be presently noticed.
Mr. Pamplin, another celebrated nurseryman, resided at the western corner of Cook’s Grounds. The old dwelling-house has just been pulled down.
The King’s Parade, opposite Cook’s Grounds, was erected in 1810. It is no longer known as the “Parade”—principally so called on account of the stone-pavement, which was considered then a luxury to walk on at that part of the road—but is now included under the general appellation of the King’s Road.
Mr. Edward Wright, comedian, of the Adelphi Theatre, lived at Merton Villa, Trafalgar Square, opposite Cook’s Grounds, for some time. He died in France some few years ago.
On the site of Oakley Square there still remained a portion of Mrs. Hutchins’s market garden. The road at this spot was very narrow, and no pathway for passengers on that side. Here, again, there was an obstructive bar placed across the road.
Mr. Faulkner mentions a singular circumstance that occurred just at this place. He says, “About the year 1796, I was present at a stag-hunt in Chelsea. The animal swam across the river from Battersea, and made for Lord Cremorne’s grounds; and upon being driven from thence ran along the water-side as far as the Church, and turning up Church Lane (street), at last took refuge in Mrs. Hutchins’s barn, where he was taken alive.”
A little on the west of Oakley Square, in a spacious house, Mrs. Kelly, the author of several novels, conducted a most respectable school. It was subsequently taken for the reception of invalid soldiers, who came to pass the Board at Chelsea Hospital, previous to their discharge from the army. This house, long since pulled down, was said to have been built about the year 1715.
Adjoining the preceding house, and at the corner of Upper Church Street, was the “Rose and Crown,” a small road-side public-house, standing much below the level of the road, and, from its appearance, had evidently been built at an early period. At the entrance was a wooden bench, on which many a weary traveller took rest. On the site of this house is now the Cadogan Arms.
Passing Church Street, and proceeding westward, the road was extremely narrow. At the south corner of Church Street there was an additional house to what there is at the present time, and the old residence on the opposite side, lately pulled down, projected several feet forward on the road, without any pathway for foot-passengers. There is now a capital carriage-road and a good pavement, with some commanding shops at the northern corner.
Adjoining, on the north side of the King’s Road, are the extensive premises of Messrs. Ransome and Co., the eminent saw-mill engineers, &c.
On the opposite side were the Nursery Grounds belonging to Mr. Shepard, the main portion of which now forms Paultons Square, and the remainder, formerly in the occupation of Mr. H. Larner, has recently been purchased by Mr. Gray, the horticultural builder, in addition to his extensive works in Danvers Street. He is making very considerable alterations, and, when completed, it will no doubt be an ornament to this fashionably frequented road.
The late Mr. Alfred Mellon, so celebrated for his concerts, and musical entertainments, lived for a considerable time in what is known as “The Vale,” which is situated on the opposite side to Paultons Square, where he died some two or three years since. He was buried in the Brompton Cemetery, and his funeral was attended by a great many of his private friends, and by a large number of the most eminent men in the musical and theatrical world, by all of whom he was highly respected.
Mr. John Varley, the celebrated water colour painter, and principal founder of the old Society now in Pall Mall East, whose works are well known to the world, lived at 10, Beaufort Row, now Beaufort Street, about the year 1810. His town house was in Conduit Street, Regent Street. During the time he resided here he made a very excellent drawing of the Old Church, from near the Bishop of Winchester’s Palace, in Cheyne Walk, the property of J. H. Chance, Esq., which was lent and exhibited at the Great Exhibition of 1862. Many other beautiful sketches of Chelsea were made by Mr. Varley from the shores, as well as from one of Mr. Bettsworth’s boats, which was always at his service. Some of the family have long been and are now residents in Chelsea and Brompton. Mr. John Varley was born in 1778, and died in 1842.
When Mr. Varley left Chelsea, Mr. Dorrell, the artist, took the house, and afterwards Mr. J. Stark, the well-known oil painter of woodland scenes, occupied it. Two prettily painted pieces, although small, are now to be seen at the South Kensington Museum. Mr. Stark was born in 1794, and died in 1859.
Wilson Lowry, F.R.S., M.G.S., lived near to Battersea Bridge, about the year 1809. He was known not only for his eminence as an engraver, but also for his extensive knowledge of anatomy, natural philosophy, mathematics, mineralogy, and geology, added to an extraordinary talent for metaphysical discussion, which placed him on terms of intimacy with the first philosophers and most scientific men of his day, and in the year 1812, unsolicited, was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society, next to Sir Joshua Reynolds, the only artist who was honoured by such a conferment. He died in 1824, in his 63rd year. Mr. Lowry’s only daughter by his second wife was Mr. John Varley’s second wife.